It looks like a Sphecidae nest. They are a sort of lonely wasps that build small nests from mud. They like to build them in small cavities. In the nests you’ll often find a trapped insect that is used as a reserve of food for the wasp’s larvae.
Obviously, the canister vent has been blocked for a very long time. Because of the blockage, gas vapors accumulated in the charcoal canister until recently when the tank hose popped off due to pressure. Since the engine is unable to purge the canister due to the clogged vent, the charcoal by now has become saturated with fuel. Now that you cleared the vent blockage, once you start the engine, the engine will be breathing in charcoal saturated with fuel. Hence a rich rough idle. Need to drive the car around for a while until the charcoal is purged, your idle will return to normal.
How to just delete this system altogether. I get that it had a purpose, but my 740's, 240's and 940's are not occasion use classics and would be best with the system deleted altogether.
You rock!!!! Nice job sticking to it! Your knowledge is admirable and you motivate me to troubleshoot my own 240 before asking for assistance with the physical work (I am disabled so I can't really do much) but being a part of diagnosing my car makes me feel good. Thanks for the inspiration!
I remember a friend changing the whole distributor on an old 740 because the hall sensor connector was broken and it wouldn't start. In that case the tachometer did not move at all when cranking the engine, so it is possible you are having issues with the hall sensor.
@@Involvod it's okayish to do, the part no. for the sensor is 1346792 and it'd be wise to also order the connector 1346793 since they are often very brittle. I usually also order an overhaul kit since you'll be taking pretty much the whole distributor apart anyway. You drill out the two mounting points of the old sensor and punch the new one firmly in place, making sure there's enough clearance between the sensor head and the rotating sensor wheel. Good luck!
@@Involvod okay, that's an interesting conversion. I'd say you need to make sure your EZK unit is compatible and the aux shaft in the engine has the teeth for the distributor gear cut out in it. Otherwise you'll need to remove the front timing cover (and to do that it's best to remove the oil pan as well to avoid leaks) in order to change the aux shaft out with one from a 240 or early 740.
I had the exact same problem with the bouncing tach needle.... turned out to be my ignition control module- which you unplugged in this video. The thermal paste had completely dried out and one of the bolts had fallen out so it was only held on by one bolt. Ordered a new one from Skandix and the tach hasn't bounced since.
Thanks for sharing! I wonder if it had anything to do with the residual contact cleaner I sprayed into the connector after clearing out the water. Might be worth picking up another module just in case as they aren't too expensive if I remember
@@Involvod couldn't hurt- if nothing else take it apart and see how dried out the thermal paste is... apparently it's meant to be reapplied every 7-10 years? Who knew??
In nearly 20 years of owning it, I've not had the charcoal canister out of my 740, as it's never given me any cause for concern. I should get it out at some point, if only to check for weird life forms in the pipes :) Have you checked the idle air control valve? They're easy enough to remove for cleaning and these days are pretty cheap if you need a replacement.
Haha yeah, they usually don't, I think because once they have reached their absorbing capabilities it gets slowly vented out through the bottom, so I don't think they can give much trouble but I might be wrong about that. The only other problem I've seen is the lines going from it to the manifold splitting and causing a vacuum leak. I checked the IACV, seems to function as it should 👍
Mud Wasps in Qld will fill any small orifice at any chance they can if not used . I put a carby on a shelf for a month , and they built their nurseries in all the holes. Lol
Elsa is lovely. Would suggest the coil but it sounds ok, does it stay cool after a drive? But it does sound like fuel. We have just done Evap systems at college and you are 100% correct lol
Thanks! Yeah it seems to be ok and the resistance values check out too. That's the good thing about Patrons and Members watching the videos first, you guys can let me know if I'm completely wrong about something before I misinform all the viewers 😂
A super-fix by Superman. That rubber hose likely just cracked, rather than was purposely cut. Mud dabber wasps love to clog ports everywhere. Silicone hose usually lasts longer than rubber, but I've found it swells in diesel, so perhaps worse in gasoline, though may tolerate the vapors. Viton is the most fuel-resistant rubber, but I haven't seen hoses that large, and would be pricey.
Hi came across your channel. Just a thought I had the same issues on my 1990s BMW. She started cold fine but difficult to start warm Vapour lock check fuel system petrol pump fault (electric) check valve failed in fuel pump not holding and maintaining pressure in fuel system.. If petrol Smell is evident might be fuel injectors leaking and or O' Rings seals too. If you have a fuel pressure tester. This tool will help you identify your problem.. Hope My tuppence is of use.. Good luck.
THE BELLS 😄 well, so you (amazingly) fixed the smell, the rust under the washer fluid tank, the pumps to the washer system, but now the rev counter jumps when idling? or it was like that already?
Does it make any difference if you're starting it straight away, without holding the key in the ignition position for a couple of seconds before cranking?
Ignition control module on driver inside fender. ? I missed which system you have , Regina? Do you have the injectors are pulsing on hot crank? . Just a thought since spark was checked out of heas. Maybe check injectors out of rail?
The taco bounced all over the place when you first crank it… that fault might then cause it to flood which is why you have to open the throttle to start it. Is there a bad connection it the sensor that it causing a voltage drop when you crank it and steal even more amps ? Is it an automatic? Have you tried bump starting it when it’s warm if it’s a manual transmission
😂 For some reason I prefer this car without, but the faded patch isn't looking good, ideally I want a chrome grille for it after seeing how nice it looked after changing it on the 240
@@Involvod I love the 'Lambda Sond' grille badge and 'CATALYSER' tailgate badge on mine, as they show that the car is a real period piece i.e. one of the first cars in the UK to have a catalytic convertor fitted as standard :)
I have similar problem with my 940. Twice it didn't want to start when hot. First time it started after 3 hours when it got cold. Second time it didn't want to start even when it got cold. I had to push it and hit 2 gear to make it start. Since then it working correctly but I wonder when will it hit me again. Maybe I need to order new crank sensor and test it next time it fail to start. Has anyone any suggestion what else to check?
Could it be your injectors leaking? Since when you give it some throttle it comes to life?... And when its cold it will be dried out from sitting for some time... Or that one way valve thing on the front of the fuel rail.. just some thoughts
Thanks, that's what I thought, I tested the injectors for leakage recently and they seemed ok, but I just swapped over the whole rail today and it started ok, will know for sure tomorrow if it's solved the problem 🤞
Loving the fat bastard reference! 😀
It looks like a Sphecidae nest. They are a sort of lonely wasps that build small nests from mud. They like to build them in small cavities. In the nests you’ll often find a trapped insect that is used as a reserve of food for the wasp’s larvae.
Interesting! Thanks 👍
@@Involvod Will the car not buzz now ? 🤣
Obviously, the canister vent has been blocked for a very long time. Because of the blockage, gas vapors accumulated in the charcoal canister until recently when the tank hose popped off due to pressure. Since the engine is unable to purge the canister due to the clogged vent, the charcoal by now has become saturated with fuel. Now that you cleared the vent blockage, once you start the engine, the engine will be breathing in charcoal saturated with fuel. Hence a rich rough idle. Need to drive the car around for a while until the charcoal is purged, your idle will return to normal.
Thanks
How to just delete this system altogether. I get that it had a purpose, but my 740's, 240's and 940's are not occasion use classics and would be best with the system deleted altogether.
Excellent work, cheers from Australia.
Cheers!
That ringing church bell is trying to play ‘Ring Ring Ring’ by Abba as tribute to your Volvos parked nearby 😉😂
with all that bell ringing, it must be hell trying to get a little one to take a nap
She's quite good at the moment, long may it continue 😂
You rock!!!! Nice job sticking to it! Your knowledge is admirable and you motivate me to troubleshoot my own 240 before asking for assistance with the physical work (I am disabled so I can't really do much) but being a part of diagnosing my car makes me feel good. Thanks for the inspiration!
Kind words, thank you! Glad I can help you out 🙂
Glad you found the problem👍 the small „cocoons“ looks like spidereggs to me. I can find many of them in my basement.
Oh wow!
What a weird little issue. Funny how it can be a stupid thing like that. The saga continues
I remember a friend changing the whole distributor on an old 740 because the hall sensor connector was broken and it wouldn't start. In that case the tachometer did not move at all when cranking the engine, so it is possible you are having issues with the hall sensor.
Thanks, I'm not surprised as I heard they are super tricky to replace
@@Involvod it's okayish to do, the part no. for the sensor is 1346792 and it'd be wise to also order the connector 1346793 since they are often very brittle. I usually also order an overhaul kit since you'll be taking pretty much the whole distributor apart anyway. You drill out the two mounting points of the old sensor and punch the new one firmly in place, making sure there's enough clearance between the sensor head and the rotating sensor wheel. Good luck!
@@general_ascona thanks for the tips! Tbh I think I'm going to convert it over to a block distributor as I've collected all the bits now
@@Involvod okay, that's an interesting conversion. I'd say you need to make sure your EZK unit is compatible and the aux shaft in the engine has the teeth for the distributor gear cut out in it. Otherwise you'll need to remove the front timing cover (and to do that it's best to remove the oil pan as well to avoid leaks) in order to change the aux shaft out with one from a 240 or early 740.
Seen enough sci-fi to know not to go anywhere near those eggs 😂
Another great video 👍 now I can check my washer bottle as my rear wash isn't working i can test it myself as you did thank you 👌
Thanks! Glad I could help out 👍
I had the exact same problem with the bouncing tach needle.... turned out to be my ignition control module- which you unplugged in this video. The thermal paste had completely dried out and one of the bolts had fallen out so it was only held on by one bolt. Ordered a new one from Skandix and the tach hasn't bounced since.
Thanks for sharing! I wonder if it had anything to do with the residual contact cleaner I sprayed into the connector after clearing out the water. Might be worth picking up another module just in case as they aren't too expensive if I remember
@@Involvod couldn't hurt- if nothing else take it apart and see how dried out the thermal paste is... apparently it's meant to be reapplied every 7-10 years? Who knew??
@@evanlewis4857 good call!
In nearly 20 years of owning it, I've not had the charcoal canister out of my 740, as it's never given me any cause for concern. I should get it out at some point, if only to check for weird life forms in the pipes :)
Have you checked the idle air control valve? They're easy enough to remove for cleaning and these days are pretty cheap if you need a replacement.
Haha yeah, they usually don't, I think because once they have reached their absorbing capabilities it gets slowly vented out through the bottom, so I don't think they can give much trouble but I might be wrong about that. The only other problem I've seen is the lines going from it to the manifold splitting and causing a vacuum leak.
I checked the IACV, seems to function as it should 👍
Mud Wasps in Qld will fill any small orifice at any chance they can if not used . I put a carby on a shelf for a month , and they built their nurseries in all the holes. Lol
Is there a wee guy in that clocktower giving it big licks? Quasimodo is currently lookin for a job while Notre Dame is gettn sorted.😂
Elsa is lovely. Would suggest the coil but it sounds ok, does it stay cool after a drive? But it does sound like fuel. We have just done Evap systems at college and you are 100% correct lol
Thanks! Yeah it seems to be ok and the resistance values check out too. That's the good thing about Patrons and Members watching the videos first, you guys can let me know if I'm completely wrong about something before I misinform all the viewers 😂
A super-fix by Superman. That rubber hose likely just cracked, rather than was purposely cut. Mud dabber wasps love to clog ports everywhere. Silicone hose usually lasts longer than rubber, but I've found it swells in diesel, so perhaps worse in gasoline, though may tolerate the vapors. Viton is the most fuel-resistant rubber, but I haven't seen hoses that large, and would be pricey.
Hi came across your channel. Just a thought I had the same issues on my 1990s BMW. She started cold fine but difficult to start warm Vapour lock check fuel system petrol pump fault (electric) check valve failed in fuel pump not holding and maintaining pressure in fuel system..
If petrol Smell is evident might be fuel injectors leaking and or O' Rings seals too. If you have a fuel pressure tester. This tool will help you identify your problem.. Hope My tuppence is of use.. Good luck.
Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it! 👍
brilliant work with the mix in audio from predator,,,made me laugh
Glad you got the reference! 😁
Mazda had to recall cars for a spiders going into the evap canisters and gas system a few years back. I guess it is another gasoline loving spider.
My kind of spider!
THE BELLS 😄 well, so you (amazingly) fixed the smell, the rust under the washer fluid tank, the pumps to the washer system, but now the rev counter jumps when idling? or it was like that already?
Thanks 😀 It did it once or twice before but it's a rare occurrence
Oh ****! I'm sure that you get it sorted out Sledge. BTW do the bells/clock ring all night? I'd go mental if they do!
No thankfully not, they used to but there's a baron that lives in the castle next to the church, he complained about it so they stopped it!
Have you taken the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator to make sure it's not leaking fuel into the vacuum line?
Does it make any difference if you're starting it straight away, without holding the key in the ignition position for a couple of seconds before cranking?
Good question, going to try that and report back!
@@Involvod Is there any difference if you try to prime those fuel lines by switching ignition key on and off few times before starting?
@@thefinland00 I ran the pumps to build fuel pressure first and it didn't make a difference
Ignition control module on driver inside fender. ? I missed which system you have , Regina? Do you have the injectors are pulsing on hot crank? . Just a thought since spark was checked out of heas. Maybe check injectors out of rail?
The taco bounced all over the place when you first crank it… that fault might then cause it to flood which is why you have to open the throttle to start it. Is there a bad connection it the sensor that it causing a voltage drop when you crank it and steal even more amps ? Is it an automatic? Have you tried bump starting it when it’s warm if it’s a manual transmission
It's an auto, thanks I'll check it out 👍
All the problems in this car are caused by your lambda sond missing.
No, not the actual O2 sensor. Just the badge on the grill.
😂 For some reason I prefer this car without, but the faded patch isn't looking good, ideally I want a chrome grille for it after seeing how nice it looked after changing it on the 240
@@Involvod I love the 'Lambda Sond' grille badge and 'CATALYSER' tailgate badge on mine, as they show that the car is a real period piece i.e. one of the first cars in the UK to have a catalytic convertor fitted as standard :)
@@shepshepherd it's really nice, I love it on the 240
I have similar problem with my 940. Twice it didn't want to start when hot. First time it started after 3 hours when it got cold. Second time it didn't want to start even when it got cold. I had to push it and hit 2 gear to make it start. Since then it working correctly but I wonder when will it hit me again. Maybe I need to order new crank sensor and test it next time it fail to start. Has anyone any suggestion what else to check?
How many times a day do the bell ring ?! Day time or all around o'clock ?
New coil
Those are wasp eggs.
I bet your coolamt tempnsensornis faulty. My lh 2.2 740 did the same shit.
That was my first thought too, but it seems to check out
engine temp sensor !!!!
Blud thinks fluid film is gonna stop rust from spreading.....
Ring Ring Ring Ring Ring Ring
Could it be your injectors leaking? Since when you give it some throttle it comes to life?... And when its cold it will be dried out from sitting for some time...
Or that one way valve thing on the front of the fuel rail.. just some thoughts
Thanks, that's what I thought, I tested the injectors for leakage recently and they seemed ok, but I just swapped over the whole rail today and it started ok, will know for sure tomorrow if it's solved the problem 🤞