Here's some of my experiences with '91/245/Wagon and '88/240/Sedan. The sedan would just die mid flight in very hot summer weather as if you shut of the ignition key. With a 5 to 10 minute wait it would start and run again perfectly fine. Again, it would die after a short while and a rest time would bring it back to life to get home. I swapped main fuel pump from my donor car but it didn't help. As fall/winter set in the problem just vanished, ran until next summer and problem came back again. I found it was in-tank fuel pump failed causing the main pump to overheat and shut down. Cool off time brought it back... In-tank pump solved it. The Wagon developed a crank/no start condition but a squirt of quickstart ether into a vacuum port would start it and it would run! That turned out to be the crank pos. sensor on top of the bell housing/flywheel. I presume no signal stops the fuel pump relay.. but somehow if you'd start with ether spray it would run !! .. New sensor and all fine again.
That was surprising, my money was on fuel injector relay or something electrical on the sedan and fuel pump or something on the wagon, did not expect that! Thanks for sharing, this might come very handy in the future 👍
Glad you found the problem and got the cars running again! Silicone grease certainly is great to have around. Seals slide in much easier, and you don't ruin them over time. Have come across too many times where seals swell up because someone have used petroleum based grease instead of silicone. My '86 740, after being reliable and starting every day for a decade, suddenly refused a couple of weeks ago. After some troubleshooting I found one of the coils in the fuel pump relay had an open circuit. No cracked solder joints or other visible damage. Was like 50 euro or so for a new one at the dealer. The guy there said they last about 10 years, and mine had a date code from 2011. Fired right up after installing the new relay.
Exactly, to be honest I used to use regular grease for a long time before I knew better 😔 Good to know about the relays life expectancy, I have a few that are 20-30 years old working fine but it's not worth the risk!
Thank you for providing this content for us, im in the army now and these videos help me with separation anxiety from my 740..😂 Greetings from Finland👍
Tengo un Volvo 740 turbo el cual estuvo parado mucho tiempo el cual hasta que se le cambió el sensor del cigüeñal y prendió nada más que se dejó para unos días y ya no quiso prender nuevamente me podrías ayudar en cuál podría ser su falla
Excellent work, I managed to destroy the fuel ECU on my 242GT Group A replica with some aftermarket injectors, learnt my lesson the hard and expensive way!!
Turbo engine injectors have bigger flow rate and low impedance values as you mentioned. You will blow ecu if you put the turbo injectors to the NA engine. Actually you will blow the turbo engine ecu too if the resistor pack is bypassed. There is more stuff to know from the injectors when it comes to the replacing them with the similiar ones. Things like dead time, dynamic flow rate etc etc.
It runs good. Nice job. In fact it runs so good judging by the look of that sparkplug that i suggest not even bothering for that 2.5bar FPR. Just leave that 3bar FPR in there.
Thanks, that's a good point. She's always been great on fuel and no signs of running rich these last 2 years running the 3 bar, unless it's lean for some other reason and balancing itself out 😄
Well done dude, shes a runner! I sold my 240 today unfortunately, the rot was just to bad and the quotes to get it fixed were way out of my budget. On the plus side i did get a low mileage 97 940 2.3t estate to replace it! All the best mate, 🤘
Ah man that is a shocker, but I can totally understand, it can be really too much on a 240. Great to hear that you've found another brick to replace it with though, I'm sure you'll enjoy the extra refinement of the 940 and way wayyy less rust!!
Another way to confirm which terminals to link on that relay socket is the wire thickness. The ones switched by the relay contacts will be thicker than the wires for the relay coil.
if you dont find the headlamps being good enough you may got old reflectors, and if you got new good reflectors may i suggest new bulbs, i personally run some OSRAM nightbreaker laser+ and even up here in scandinavia i feel they are perfectly adequate in the dark winter without extra lights :)
@@Involvod yes Colombians don't like old cars .. im originally from Halesowen being living in the US for 35 years but getting to Toxic..Colombia is good Great food ..PS I'm on the lookout for a Fiat 127 or 125
Pick and mix, nice job....Stones song to celebrate ."if you start it...up it will never stop"...you make an Old Volvo run.....where is the Mercedes thing at ?
Luckily (for me) the only thing not working on my 1985 245 is the stereo, but that's not needed to make the car run, I also wish it was faster, but that's to be expected from a B230A engine and a AW70 transmission..
Doesn't the LH2.2 have long term learning algorithms anyway? When she didn't start at first, maybe disconnecting the battery to delete the storage could have sped it up a little.
Hi there, Gunsons colortune is an invaluable tool to have. I wonder if You could help Me, I have a failed front driver side (UK) engine mount failed. on My Volvo 740, 1986 2.3, estate. I have looked on Ebay and all the engine mount and gearbox rubbers look the same in size and shape. My question is are they the same volvo part used over a wide range of locations and models? Any help would be much appreciated thanks Dee
I've never had to deal with engine mounts on a 740, but Skandix is a great resource to check parts and numbers, you can enter in different model data and see what mounts are listed 👍
So, how long do you prime the pumps for when you are bypassing the switch? I recently replaced the entire fuel system because the car was left with a full tank of fuel, and it sat in the garage for 16 years, destroying the tank and pumps. I've checked to make sure pumps work and replaced relay. But it still won't start. I also replaced the hall sensor in the distributor and put a new fuze link under the hood next to the battery. Im lost at this point. Are there any suggestions? Thank yiu
I'm a little disappointed. I hardly heard any DONGDING DONG DONG's in this video. What's the deal with that? Just kidding, fantastic job on this fix. Do you have any updates on the engine for the wagon yet?
Do they still have registration plates that are local to where you live in Germany, I see one of the cars have a B which I thought was Berlin and another something different?
Yeah, they do. It is just not mandatory anymore to change it if you move. You can keep the old plate. And also you can register a car at a different location from where you as a person are registered.
@@el_micha Thanks, Sort of the same in France, before 2009 cars had to be registered in the department where you lived, plus the registration had to change, now the number stays with the car, We do have over department number on the right side of the plate opposite the EU blue "F" which you are supposed to change if you move departments but nobody bothers.
Here's some of my experiences with '91/245/Wagon and '88/240/Sedan. The sedan would just die mid flight in very hot summer weather as if you shut of the ignition key. With a 5 to 10 minute wait it would start and run again perfectly fine. Again, it would die after a short while and a rest time would bring it back to life to get home. I swapped main fuel pump from my donor car but it didn't help. As fall/winter set in the problem just vanished, ran until next summer and problem came back again. I found it was in-tank fuel pump failed causing the main pump to overheat and shut down. Cool off time brought it back... In-tank pump solved it. The Wagon developed a crank/no start condition but a squirt of quickstart ether into a vacuum port would start it and it would run! That turned out to be the crank pos. sensor on top of the bell housing/flywheel. I presume no signal stops the fuel pump relay.. but somehow if you'd start with ether spray it would run !! .. New sensor and all fine again.
That was surprising, my money was on fuel injector relay or something electrical on the sedan and fuel pump or something on the wagon, did not expect that! Thanks for sharing, this might come very handy in the future 👍
Glad you found the problem and got the cars running again! Silicone grease certainly is great to have around. Seals slide in much easier, and you don't ruin them over time. Have come across too many times where seals swell up because someone have used petroleum based grease instead of silicone.
My '86 740, after being reliable and starting every day for a decade, suddenly refused a couple of weeks ago. After some troubleshooting I found one of the coils in the fuel pump relay had an open circuit. No cracked solder joints or other visible damage. Was like 50 euro or so for a new one at the dealer. The guy there said they last about 10 years, and mine had a date code from 2011. Fired right up after installing the new relay.
Exactly, to be honest I used to use regular grease for a long time before I knew better 😔 Good to know about the relays life expectancy, I have a few that are 20-30 years old working fine but it's not worth the risk!
Thank you for providing this content for us, im in the army now and these videos help me with separation anxiety from my 740..😂 Greetings from Finland👍
Oh wow! Thanks. I hope it's not too long before you're reunited! 👍
Tengo un Volvo 740 turbo el cual estuvo parado mucho tiempo el cual hasta que se le cambió el sensor del cigüeñal y prendió nada más que se dejó para unos días y ya no quiso prender nuevamente me podrías ayudar en cuál podría ser su falla
Love the Bearded Wrencher call out
Engine sounds lovely, I do miss that sound.
It's the sound of home 😄
Top notch.
Dealing with anything fuel related would probably scare me to doing it myself and end up farming out the job.
Thanks! I'm just glad the inlet manifold isn't sat above the exhaust manifold like on some cars 😅
@@Involvod Like which one?
Another problem solved. Well done Sledge.
Thanks 🙂
Happy to see it running.
Well done!!
Thanks 👍
Excellent work, I managed to destroy the fuel ECU on my 242GT Group A replica with some aftermarket injectors, learnt my lesson the hard and expensive way!!
Excellent, ticking over nicely great to see the 240 on the road again 🎉🎉👍
Thanks 👍
The noise of the red block is so unique and lovely. Great fix fella
Nice job. She’s sounding good!
Thanks 👍
Love your Volvo videos.
Thanks!
The Legend lives, what a great motor to work on 💯❗
Sure is!
Turbo engine injectors have bigger flow rate and low impedance values as you mentioned. You will blow ecu if you put the turbo injectors to the NA engine. Actually you will blow the turbo engine ecu too if the resistor pack is bypassed.
There is more stuff to know from the injectors when it comes to the replacing them with the similiar ones. Things like dead time, dynamic flow rate etc etc.
Thanks 👍
Nice. Doing the ballast resistor mod and throwing some white 766 high imp injectors in my '89 780 LH2.2 car right now
It runs good. Nice job.
In fact it runs so good judging by the look of that sparkplug that i suggest not even bothering for that 2.5bar FPR. Just leave that 3bar FPR in there.
Thanks, that's a good point. She's always been great on fuel and no signs of running rich these last 2 years running the 3 bar, unless it's lean for some other reason and balancing itself out 😄
Good work 👍
Thanks ✌️
Well done dude, shes a runner!
I sold my 240 today unfortunately, the rot was just to bad and the quotes to get it fixed were way out of my budget. On the plus side i did get a low mileage 97 940 2.3t estate to replace it! All the best mate, 🤘
Ah man that is a shocker, but I can totally understand, it can be really too much on a 240. Great to hear that you've found another brick to replace it with though, I'm sure you'll enjoy the extra refinement of the 940 and way wayyy less rust!!
Nice one!
Thanks man 👍
Another way to confirm which terminals to link on that relay socket is the wire thickness. The ones switched by the relay contacts will be thicker than the wires for the relay coil.
Thanks 👍
if you dont find the headlamps being good enough you may got old reflectors, and if you got new good reflectors may i suggest new bulbs, i personally run some OSRAM nightbreaker laser+ and even up here in scandinavia i feel they are perfectly adequate in the dark winter without extra lights :)
Thanks for the tips 👍
He's from Birmingham 🇬🇧 👍
Damn, still need to work on my accent 😀
@@Involvod I'm from Birmingham now living in Colombia 🇨🇴 I have 2 volvos 850 and a 244 ..your accent is fine like mine ..👍
@@jasonking6892 oh wow! One of my mates lives in Colombia! Nice Volvo collection
@@Involvod yes Colombians don't like old cars .. im originally from Halesowen being living in the US for 35 years but getting to Toxic..Colombia is good Great food ..PS I'm on the lookout for a Fiat 127 or 125
Pick and mix, nice job....Stones song to celebrate ."if you start it...up it will never stop"...you make an Old Volvo run.....where is the Mercedes thing at ?
Thanks! It's out on the street, we decided to keep it for the salty winter then sell it next year
Those bells😵
Don't you just love a red block
With all my heart 😄
Luckily (for me) the only thing not working on my 1985 245 is the stereo, but that's not needed to make the car run, I also wish it was faster, but that's to be expected from a B230A engine and a AW70 transmission..
Doesn't the LH2.2 have long term learning algorithms anyway? When she didn't start at first, maybe disconnecting the battery to delete the storage could have sped it up a little.
I think it might be just the LH2.4 that has that 🤔
Straighten that right out! 🤣
Great video buddy
maybe fitting it with a wideband and gauge could help
Hi there, Gunsons colortune is an invaluable tool to have. I wonder if You could help Me, I have a failed front driver side (UK) engine mount failed. on My Volvo 740, 1986 2.3, estate. I have looked on Ebay and all the engine mount and gearbox rubbers look the same in size and shape. My question is are they the same volvo part used over a wide range of locations and models? Any help would be much appreciated thanks Dee
I've never had to deal with engine mounts on a 740, but Skandix is a great resource to check parts and numbers, you can enter in different model data and see what mounts are listed 👍
thanks : - )@@Involvod
Well, it keeps you off the street, this hobby 😅
It’s not a hobby, it’s a passion. Like Jesus hat 😅
If you don’t bend a 240 fuel rail at some point, you’re not maintaining your car enough
😂😂😂
So, how long do you prime the pumps for when you are bypassing the switch?
I recently replaced the entire fuel system because the car was left with a full tank of fuel, and it sat in the garage for 16 years, destroying the tank and pumps. I've checked to make sure pumps work and replaced relay. But it still won't start. I also replaced the hall sensor in the distributor and put a new fuze link under the hood next to the battery. Im lost at this point. Are there any suggestions? Thank yiu
I'm a little disappointed. I hardly heard any DONGDING DONG DONG's in this video. What's the deal with that?
Just kidding, fantastic job on this fix. Do you have any updates on the engine for the wagon yet?
😂 Thanks. Engine should be here this week! Very excited!
Did you have a big problem disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel rail, mine is incredibly stuck?
Mine is also stuck at this very moment -- did your get yours loose?
Do they still have registration plates that are local to where you live in Germany, I see one of the cars have a B which I thought was Berlin and another something different?
Yeah, they do. It is just not mandatory anymore to change it if you move. You can keep the old plate. And also you can register a car at a different location from where you as a person are registered.
@@el_micha Thanks, Sort of the same in France, before 2009 cars had to be registered in the department where you lived, plus the registration had to change, now the number stays with the car, We do have over department number on the right side of the plate opposite the EU blue "F" which you are supposed to change if you move departments but nobody bothers.
@@SlimTortoise Thanks for sharing!