Ultimate Guide To Replacing Your Jeep JK Axle U-Joints! (Expert Tips!)
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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I had a 1200 mile trip approaching and discovered the U-joints in my 2007 Jeep JKU were on their way out so I thought I'd share my tips for replacing them since I have done HUNDREDS of them. Truly hope this helps!
5-760x U-Joint (2007-11 JK w/ Dana 30): amzn.to/44jbp3E
5-7166x U-Joint (2007-18 JK w/ Dana 44): amzn.to/3UkEbw7
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Flawed Offroad, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Flawed Offroad assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Flawed Offroad recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Flawed Offroad, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Flawed Offroad.
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I just did ball joints, noticed it's probably time for u joints while I was down there. You did a great job explaining, and I actually don't feel too bad about doing these now. Thanks!
Good luck! its not too bad just takes a little patience
Easiest video to follow. This made the removal and install easy.
I wish you was close by, gotta change mine
Follow every step he says to take. I just did my driver side ball joints and hub assembly so I also bought a Spicer U joint and following this video the entire passenger side is done. I just did what he said now I’m a mechanic but I work on heavy equipment. Driver side left.
Best video I have seen yet. And I have watched quite a few. I'll be following this process for sure. Thanks for the video
Thanks, Glad you liked it!
cheers, yep that knuckle is trigger finger well thats what we call in the UK. onset of osteoperosis / arthritus or nodes. Hopefully nodes, simple opp sorts it out, otherwise every joint on your finger will end up doing it until youve gotta crack them free, worse case senario i had use a vice or a drawer until i had the opp.
You can tell who loves what they do
Thanks, jou are fantastic and delever a very informative video. Thank you ever so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this video, others I watched had nice clean parts. Mine are rusty, dented trail beaten. Will look to your channel for future fixes.
Excellent video. For something done all the time can still learn something - never tried rotating the hub in the knuckle. I’ve always done the power steering deal where stick 5/8” socket to jam ujoint and turn wheel. I also have used the press tool for long time but agree that just seems to cause issues as it has so much crushing force, also I’d get one cap push through and if the other side goes too far into middle it always galls up on way out other side
Yeah I’ve exploded many caps trying many methods and I always go back to the caveman method it just works. That rotate trick works, it’s the ticket.(even if it didn’t work the best on my Jeep in the video it did still work)
Fantastic and very informative video. Thank you ever so much 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻😉
Vary informative: Thanks......
I always, without fail, have at least one cap where a needle falls over into the bottom of the cap, and i have to take it all back apart.
Yeah it happens. That’s why I always check to see how far the cap seated on the cross before I continue.
So first off this vid is a life saver. Never changed these inner retainer clip style u joints before. Dumb design imo. Second, during reassembly of the driver side on my 95 xj, I spun the hub by hand, after tightening the spindle nut to spec. Bearings feel fine but i watched the inner shaft wobble as it spun in the new seal. Steering set straight. Might this be the true source of the mysterious vibrations? Better question, how might i determine if its the stub, or the inner shaft? Kinda liking the look of 100 bucks or so for a whole new cv axle assembly. Heard mixed thoughts on cv vs u-joint
@@prochorushanif7307 the cv are great only if you never plan to offroad, idk if I’d trust them it’s awful small (I’ve seen the factory zj ones)
If you think about it there’s nothing supporting the shaft from where it goes in the carrier/rides on the seal all the way to where the stub shaft splines through the bearing. It’s normal for a small amount of movement(even super duty Dana 60s do that)
The problem is if the stub shaft moves within the wheel bearing, or the u joint itself is so loose it causes movement on the joint itself) Typically the jk moves around much less than old yj/tj/xj style stuff. If it’s a new u joint and your bearing isn’t cooked then it’s probably that normal amount of movement I speak of
@@FlawedOffroad it's a head scratcher. Itd be awesome if you made some kind of short vid or something showcasing a bent axle vs a straight one, and where to look to see it
@@prochorushanif7307 front axle shafts getting bent is pretty uncommon(ive never seen one), other than the ears on the yokes. rear axles especially semi float axles are very common to bend at the flange, very easy to spot cause the whole rear tire will wobble.
cool video
Thanks!
Alright so I’m in the process of figuring this out on my JK.
I’m a TJ guy, I’ve built multiple and currently have a 03 rubi on tons.
But my JK is a 2012 so I ordered the 7166x. They don’t appear to fit.
The switch seems to have been made part way through 2012 according to my research.. those of us with a 2012 have headaches figuring it out for the first time.
If you have a 2012 order both part numbers and return the ones that don’t work. It’s easier that way trust me.
2013 should be 7166x and from 07 to about half way through 2012 it was 760x
Hope this helps others in the future.
@@OntarioFreshwaterFishing that’s so odd because I just did a 2010 yesterday at work and it had the big U joints and it was not a Rubicon it was a Dana 30. So it should have been the small. That’s kind of why I didn’t have a definitive answer in the video because I’ve seen it vary so wildly.
@@FlawedOffroad from what I’ve seen online is some dealers will put in new style shafts with the larger ears for the bigger ujoint, if they have ever been replaced in the past that could explain it.
My 2012 is completely factory it’s a pavement princess so the ujoints have lasted quite a while.
I’m guessing they made the switch because of the added power with the 3.6. The 3.8 was gutless and wouldn’t require a larger ujoint.
@@OntarioFreshwaterFishing theres always previous owner upgrades as well. its well known upgrade for the older ones that may be why I run into the older ones with the newer shafts. Either way there is no way for a video to tell anyone what they have, gonna have to be some measuring involved
@@FlawedOffroad ya that’s very true. There is no way to guarantee it so I agree with how you put it in the video. Covers you from any backlash.
@@OntarioFreshwaterFishing I made the same mistake so I still have a set of the small ones. I kept them cause those fit tjs and older stuff and I like having spares for others
If I lived someplace where vehicles rusted so bad I would own a media blaster.
I mean sort of useful but its not like you can just casually sandblast your junk, its a whole ordeal haha
Nice video! What impact gun is that running a dewalt battery?
@@danmulkiewicz5515 Mac tools, same company pretty much or under same umbrella
@FlawedOffroad thank you! And thanks for putting the time and effort into making these great videos for the jeep community. Adventure on!
Thanks for the vid- and that finger joint locking? That's called trigger finger and it'll get worse. Steroid injections will free them up for awhile but surgery will eventually be needed. Just had the surgery myself...and it's much better.
@@donr100 maybe that’s it it’s been that way my whole life but only on my ring finger because I think it’s double jointed. It’s the only finger that I can bend just the tip without both knuckles bending if that makes sense. I can do it on command but sometimes it just does it by itself😅
You can change those 12 points with regular bolts. Also, what sway bar links are on there?
Yeah those bolts are like $20 each at Napa lol. I wasn’t concerned with it.
As for the disconnect they are a knock off of JKS disconnects, they were like $43 on Amazon haha(my electric sway bar is broken)
amzn.to/3w6iUOZ these are what I bought but I guess they are out of stock. They are a dead ringer to the JKS ones
@@FlawedOffroadthank you sir
@@Thexkidd says they are back in stock for $30 now, less than I paid
@@FlawedOffroad 😳 I’m on it
I don't know ones I need I got 08 jeep wrangler Sahara which one I need?
More than likely the 5-760x
Thank you I just ordered it on Amazon,crossing my fingers
So glad I don't live in a rust belt.
It’s a bit of a curse. Around here if you like your vehicle you park it in the winter and drive a beater
@@FlawedOffroad Lol, out here in Oregon, rust is only a problem if you live on the coast really.
U need to break the middle nut first. With the wheel on.
@@Joe-b1i4d not really you don’t. Maybe if you’re doing it with hand tools but even then you can hold it from rotating with a pry bar.