This couldn’t have been any more perfect timing definitely running this in the buggy I’m currently building! Same with the 4l80 mount you guys just dropped!
Instead of bronze you should look into Nitronic 60 for the upper socket, it has some of the best anti galling characteristics in the metal world while having material properties on par with 304ss.
Man I don't know which dj deletes to get for my daily driver solid axle swap 08 dmax Dyna trac, King joint or American iron off-road deletes they all are awesome and made with high-quality material, i just don't know which one's to get🤦🏿♂️
Do you guys think you'd ever invest in having your own casting for the knuckle? That way you could integrate the King Joint into the casting and strengthen the weak area without the need for a large weld. That could also let you integrate some grease fittings or something.
No camber/caster adjustments. Although all the older trucks with kingpins are the same way. Are the strong? The strongest. But you may get uneven tire wear
You could try different grades of bronze later for optimum wear. Or if curiosity What kind of material is the tapered pin made out of? Superduty stuff is the way to go
We experimented with bronze for a long time to find an alloy that wears slowly and is super tough. We settled on a proprietary alloy. The pin is hardened 4340
Please explain? Wouldn’t it be best to have 2 solid bars. I know I blow out both lower and uppers every 20 thousand miles which is only about 5 months for me
@@DonaldBush-rz5fgYou gotta pay attention to the beginning, he starts giving some background info like two minutes into the video, then around 3:40 is why. You absolutely can do upper and lowers fully solid and I am seeing on another site there is a kit, but with what he's mentioning in here you're already stiffening everything up and sharing the vertical loads with both joints so much by just doing a CHONK of an upper ball joint it doesn't matter. With that in mind the only reason I'd think you'd care to do solid lowers is if you didn't see this kit since they give you new lowers as well or just simply wanted them, maybe to eliminate as much maintenance as you can from the rig and don't care about the extra price; the other brand with solid uppers and lowers at least for my axles are like $200 more. Possibly extreme environments too where the properties of the softer materials aren't as optimal, but honestly I'm spitballing with that last one. Oh quick edit, lastly you mentioned miles; if you meant that as like towing or something these are meant for off-road use, you'd lose all camber/caster adjustability if you did this in a daily and that may get a bit sketchy going highway speeds
You sir are mistaken. Some of the very largest and strongest hinge joints have bronze bushings. Not to mention machine tools pretty much have all used bronze. You opened your mouth with no experience to back it up. Plus there are very simple to understand reasons steel isn't used as a bushing very often. Definitely not for these purposes.
It's obvious Jake builds the best buggies available!!
The crew at the shop have them pretty dialed
This couldn’t have been any more perfect timing definitely running this in the buggy I’m currently building! Same with the 4l80 mount you guys just dropped!
Perfect!
So how does this work for every day drivers like for heavy diesels the Dodge 2500 all the way up to the 4500?
Do they make these for aam front on my dually?
Instead of bronze you should look into Nitronic 60 for the upper socket, it has some of the best anti galling characteristics in the metal world while having material properties on par with 304ss.
Really? Thats super cool. Ill look into it (jake)
The more you know
As i dont own a tig welder, what would be the best type of wire to use to mig weld the king joint to the cast knuckle ?
Maybe Put Belleville spring washers between the bronze and the nut to keep consistent tension on the tapered pin.
Vw guy here. This would be great for vw front ends on rails and buggys
O sht you got my welder 220ic great welder. How do you like it. They have only went up in price. Have had mine 5 years or so.
Love our Esab welders
These are great! I love the new design
Glad you like them!
Bronze is also more of a lubricative properties. Thats one of the reason you use bronze guides in cylinder heads.
facts
Man I don't know which dj deletes to get for my daily driver solid axle swap 08 dmax Dyna trac, King joint or American iron off-road deletes they all are awesome and made with high-quality material, i just don't know which one's to get🤦🏿♂️
Do you guys think you'd ever invest in having your own casting for the knuckle? That way you could integrate the King Joint into the casting and strengthen the weak area without the need for a large weld. That could also let you integrate some grease fittings or something.
It just doesn't make sense money wise with the Super Duty Knuckles are so strong , cheap, and readily available.
Can your first style BJE be replaced with this new design?
At this time you could cut them out and re-weld the new ones in. We have though about making the pin screw into the old style like a conversion
if you invert the cone area, any downward stress would only increase the pressure, making it impossible to pull through.
Can i run these on my superduty tow pig? are they road safe?
There are for offroad use only
Youd lose your camber and caster settings/ability to adjust. Not worth it
No camber/caster adjustments. Although all the older trucks with kingpins are the same way. Are the strong? The strongest. But you may get uneven tire wear
Just ordered a set 🤘🏻
👊
Super good explanation dude.
Appreciate it!
Well dang. I have the old style I’m about to install and now it want these. 😮
Call the shop, might be able to work something out
How do they get greased? Are there channels inside the bronze for dispursion?
Loosen, grease, tighten
i need these for a 44 or 30 i have the american iron ones but these i think would be even better
They make a great product if you want to keep camber/caster. If you want shear beef we have you covered
I agree, I would love these made for the JL 44’s
You could try different grades of bronze later for optimum wear. Or if curiosity What kind of material is the tapered pin made out of?
Superduty stuff is the way to go
We experimented with bronze for a long time to find an alloy that wears slowly and is super tough. We settled on a proprietary alloy. The pin is hardened 4340
Super duty stuff is beef 🥩
How do we eliminate the pissy lower joint?
Put this one on the bottom too?
No need to
Please explain? Wouldn’t it be best to have 2 solid bars. I know I blow out both lower and uppers every 20 thousand miles which is only about 5 months for me
@@DonaldBush-rz5fgYou gotta pay attention to the beginning, he starts giving some background info like two minutes into the video, then around 3:40 is why.
You absolutely can do upper and lowers fully solid and I am seeing on another site there is a kit, but with what he's mentioning in here you're already stiffening everything up and sharing the vertical loads with both joints so much by just doing a CHONK of an upper ball joint it doesn't matter.
With that in mind the only reason I'd think you'd care to do solid lowers is if you didn't see this kit since they give you new lowers as well or just simply wanted them, maybe to eliminate as much maintenance as you can from the rig and don't care about the extra price; the other brand with solid uppers and lowers at least for my axles are like $200 more. Possibly extreme environments too where the properties of the softer materials aren't as optimal, but honestly I'm spitballing with that last one.
Oh quick edit, lastly you mentioned miles; if you meant that as like towing or something these are meant for off-road use, you'd lose all camber/caster adjustability if you did this in a daily and that may get a bit sketchy going highway speeds
One day someone will make the pivot east and west instead of north and south. Somehow. Crazy the advancements in a short time with these bouncers
It really is. Innovation has changed the game in such a short time
not sure how that would work
Wouldn't work you can't turn them 😂 think about what you just wrote 😂
man thats awesome they look bomb proof.
they are tough, no failures so far and they have been put thru the ringer
309 is the right filler for the job. What i would of used
👍
Looks like a bt40 tool holder
Sweet man...
They are tough
I always keep at least 3 King Joints next to my Dana 35.
Just in case it blows up. :)
Smart
Next level BEEF!
They are so beefy!
Facts
I can see why mig would fail. It’s not hot enough.
make some for the rzr
And I'll buy them
Plenty of companies already in that game.
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad when you read the reviews they all suck
Rad
👊
bullet proof
I dont see how anyone could tear one up
Very interested to see how much abuse they can take. 🔥🔥🔥
Jake has been abusing them on his with no issues.
Been beating them down for months now and not a problem with Jake behind the wheel of 800+hp.
Very small and weak joint, i see 😁😁🤣🤣
It's bigger than my car's CV shafts
they hold up pretty well
😎🇺🇸👍🇺🇸😎
👊👍
But no zerk fitting on it ?
Steel is stronger than bronze. Bronze is very weak and no auto manufacturer uses bronze. Bronze is second place and second place is the first looser!
You sir are mistaken. Some of the very largest and strongest hinge joints have bronze bushings. Not to mention machine tools pretty much have all used bronze. You opened your mouth with no experience to back it up. Plus there are very simple to understand reasons steel isn't used as a bushing very often. Definitely not for these purposes.
Bronze wears way better than steel.
bronze wears better for this kind of application
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoadHe doesn't understand 😂 He rode the short bus all his life 😂 awesome part I'll get me some soon
@RyanUpchurch