Thanks for tuning in guys! Enjoy the video! Need wiring or wire distribution parts for your car audio build? Check out show sponsor KnuKonceptz! www.knukonceptz.com/ 🔨 Recommended Links ✔️ Box Design Blueprints: www.caraudiofabrication.com/box-designs ✔️ My favorite woodworking router: amzn.to/3HgmUwj ✔️ Compatible Bench Top Router Table: amzn.to/3ecZn2w ✔️ Pro Router Bits: www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Your videos have been a huge game changer for me. I am not usually able to stay focused on any RUclips instructionals, however have no issues following along throughout your videos. Your consistency of solid information and lack of "blah, blah, blah" is above and beyond any I've came across. The information in your videos helped me create my first box with ease "so far anyways", following your tips and instructions to the T.
Totally agree... Most of these guys start rambling about things that have nothing to do with the video subject, or they've got obnoxious overly loud music playing over themselves... I usually don't even make it past about 2 minutes before I lose interest... This guy's got a good format and stays on topic
A butt-joint is the weakest type of joint. (Try lap, dado, or splines) Nails, pins, screw, dominoes, or dowels should be used in most builds . Bc glue is stronger on larger surface areas. Use/build a jig for complex cuts. Know and build for the tuning frequency desired. Paint/seal the box to prevent moisture issues or spill damage. Buy a sub that can play at frequencies down to atleast 20hz.
my tip would be to have a plan for how you're going to mount it to the vehicle. Having a box loose in the trunk isn't a terrible idea, especially if you're a spirited driver or if you're ever in a crash. Its also likely you'll damage your sub in normal use like this as well, whether its through abrasion, punctures, impacts or even increased resistance because the cones movement has been impeded by something. Make sure you strap it down or use bolts.
Having it so tight you can't get it back out is just as bad ........... I may have to destroy my setup if I ever need to get it out . Good thing though it will be hard to steal LOL
MDF is the BEST material for all speaker cabinets, I play guitar and I researched this in depth.... spent HOURS and HOURS watching scientific tests and all that, this guy is 100% CORRECT!
I've done that before on the channel and it was the worst performing enclosure build videos I've ever had, people say this but the numbers show me what people are most interested in. There's tons of videos out there on using basic tools and getting basic results. I'll be continuing to focus on getting the best results here.
The process to make a good box remains the same. It may not have the same finish as using expensive tools and beauty panels may not be able to have as much detail and you are trading off more work for yourself vs cost of tooling
Man I love your videos. A lot of these tips I already do. I used to build a lot of enclosures 15-20 years ago, and am recently getting back into it trying to figure out the best way to put 2 12s in my dodge ram quad cab (there's nowhere near enough room under that rear seat) I'm thinking about going with a dash-rear seat center console build. Anyway in the meantime I've gotten into a lot of other woodworking. So now I actually have a shop with dust collection and the proper tools. Your videos are really helping me see how I can use all these "new" tools on sub enclosures. Example I never used a router on anything, now I've got 3 now a a good collections of bits lol... I believe the first boxes I built was for behind the seat of my Isuzu pickup and all I had was a jig saw lol. That plus a lot of caulking and I made it work okish... Thank you for the videos
To each their own, but the whole beauty panel thing just doesn’t do it for me. It takes up so much more time and oftentimes looks tacky in my opinion. Even if you like the look, you will hardly ever see it anyway.
I want to take a moment to say that when I found your channel a few years back (2016/2017ish...more than a few, I guess; time flies) I wasn't interested at all in car audio fabrication. I was interested in your cabinet designs, your router techniques, the fit and finish of your projects, and THEN car audio concerns...now after watching your videos for this long, I'm kinda hyped up to try my hand at fabricating some door panels and speaker enclosures for my '67 Mustang. I wouldn't have even thought to bother with it if you didn't produce such inspiring work.
Gathering my materials now! Can't wait to experience my first subwoofer box build. The biggest challenge is how I'm going to safely mount the box so it never moves even if it's in a accident. Scrolling McMaster for dayyyys lol
I just got everything in place including the amp rack and in fine tuning that same detail not always easy but also pretty permanent you won't be taking it in and out.
I remember the days of jig saws and skill saws only! We didn't even have a router in the shop! Much less a router table! Which you use every day.... Impressive to say the least. 😃
I would love any sort of guide on how to tie in an additional sub into an existing "premium" sound system. I have a 21 Elantra, and the LFE just seem lackluster, with the lows never really getting very powerful, so I've been considering the addition of a separate sub that is specifically for about the sub-40 Hz range. It is difficult, however, to find reliable information on how to find an appropriate subwoofer, enclosure, etc, especially since I have yet to find the output wattage of the existing amp in order to try to find a secondary amp in order to help supplement the existing audio without a major overhaul of the entire system.
Your best bet will be an AudioControl LC2i. Affordable, and built to do exactly what you’re after. Check out his videos on DSP’s as well. Both allow you to keep factory system in place and add additional amplifiers. Cheers!
To hit sub 40 Hz, you're gonna need a nice ported enclosure, driver of your choice to take into account the volume needed and how much space you're willing to give up and something like an audiocontrol LC2i along with an amplifier.
I just put an entire system I'm 21 Elantra. Used the stock deck but upgraded everything else. Hertz Deice 6.5 components up front, deici coax's in the back. It takes quite a bit to integrate. I specifically did not get the premium sound system though. If you need help let me know, I can give you some tips.
I have 2 rad builds coming up and definitely want to give you the reigns for box plans! I'll email you soon! I've been building boxes for 40 years but love the way you design your boxes
How big a router do you need? Some would say large routers that use 1/2" shaft is the only way to go. Ask a professional cabinetmaker and they would say not really. A 1/4" shaft palm router will do the work nicely and be easier to handle. If you are using a larger bit, make multiple shallow passes instead of one big hog out. When routing out a driver hole, don't go all the way through, as all the support for your circle guide is lost. Instead, leave about 1/16" of material remaining, remove the circle guide and then use a utility knife to cut through the rest. Whatever is still hanging on can be cut off with the knife or use a trim bit. I like to use a 1/8" roundover trimmer for that last step: it leaves a nice smooth edge for the woofer and more importantly, less abrasions when you reach inside.
If you have a portable table saw or not much experience using it... It's not that bad with practice and an out feed table. Which can be anything even or slightly shorter than the table height
At 2:15 are you using brad nails to hold the box until the glue dries? If so, do you have a recommendation on what length of 18 gauge brad nails to use?
My tip is if you decide to work with MDF, set up dust collection on your power tools and wear a mask to reduce inhalation of MDF dust, especially if you work indoors.
Does the shape of the box have an effect on output and/or sound? To get the recommended volume for my subs I had to make my box L shaped so it would fit under my rear seat. To me, the sound seems off.
Another important detail is where there going a trunk back of Tahoe or hatch back weather there rear facing up or down... how the sound is gonna flow is also important
Port speed i made a box purposely for decaf music for 2 12’s and tuned it to 28hz it sound incredible but that port speed is insane and some port noise i have a 12.5 cm diameter port 2 cm thick
Hello Mark! Daniel here and I may say I love to see ur videos and love to see all the new audio gear . Had a question when do u think u will have the speaker aiming tools available again . Thank u. And keep up the amazing work .
Do you have a isobaric build video? And if not do you think you could plan one for your channel. I've always wanted a clean isobaric design and you're designs are always top notch.. ty
Generally it makes no difference as the glue does the real work holding it together. A very well known enclosure builder actually removes all of the screws from his builds after the glue dries, making the point time after time that they are redundant.
When it comes to using tools, I prefer MDF, much easier to work with but I hate the dust! 13ply baltic birch does dull down the router bits fast, I do not like the extremelyyy strong smell of it, Ive never had an issue with the 7 ply birch from Lowes, just comes with some voids in the plys that I patch with wood filler. Almost zero smell from that birch and the dust isnt that bad either!
I got a brand new router for Christmas, but the enclosure I was last working on was finished before Christmas unfortunately....... However I am definitely looking for a good excuse to build another box though lol
Just for clarification. Screws or staples aren't neccessary because the glue is what keeps the box strong right? My brother said if you used screws, they could come loose with the vibrations. He said use a staple gun instead. Thought's?
I run a shoda maxxim cnc at work and a few others and all of the spoil boards "this is the board that the vacuum flows thru and holds the wood that is getting milled to the table". are all mdf there not as airtight as you think . There actually extremely porous
Mark looking at building a custom sub enclosure for my Tacoma. Do to the space being so limited I was wondering if I could mix 1/2” and 3/4” MDF with some bracing inside on 1/2”
Mark - hope you see this question. I was an installer for over 20 years and for the last 8 of those I was using Trupan cabinet grade MDF and LOVED IT! All the enclosures (including three in my own cars) are glued and screwed, corners sealed, and the entire inside of the enclosure painted with latex housepaint to prevent 'breathing". What is your opinion and experience?
I pre-cut with a jigsaw or bandsaw then finish with router.... I use expensive bits so I want them to remain cooler and stay sharp and not get gummed up
Great video! I have a 07 Honda CRV and want to add a small sub for added low-end bass. I mostly listen to classical. Would one of those subs that fit under the seat be a good choice?
Don't buy MDF from the big box stores if they look like they have been exposed to moisture . I bought the last 2 sheets the store had in stock and they had very minor staining on them , put them in the shop and came back on Monday to them being covered in green mildew everywhere there was a stain . I returned them with no issues but the new load they got in a few days later were all damp , the young man working the lumber area claimed that it came in on the truck uncovered no tarps and the plastic wrap was wet .
There is no one software. Everyone thinks there is a software that let's you just say what space you have available and out pops the perfect design. It takes mostly math and design knowledge.
Just put a nakamichi sub (one of those compact ones) in my '14 wrangler, sounds great but it seems to overheat and cut off. Installed in the back (2-door) cus it wouldnt fit under the seat, how can i fix this issue before my car catches fire???
Sure it's possible... You would obviously have to have a divider in the box... I'm considering doing this myself to get the benefits of sealed and ported together
No, A T-Line is RARELY a good choice for a car audio system. I know people like to elude to them being magical, but there is a reason they are very rarely used.
That sub is rated 1500 W RMS and that amp spec says it can put out 1500 W RMS at 2 ohms. If you have the D4 version of the sub you can wire both coils in parallel to bring it to 2 ohms. Otherwise if you have the D2 it can only be wired to either 1 ohm or 4 ohms. That amp is rated for 2000 W RMS at 1 ohm, so it will still work. As always just set gain properly so you don't clip at high volume, and limit the power that the amp puts out so the sub doesn't overheat.
I have designed 2 box for pioneer tsw309d4, and strange that same woofer, same amp, ssme box, 2 different car, one nissan note and one toyota tercel, they totally sound different, in nissan note, lows are death. Why? How can i make my low hertz more hear able in nissan note with tsw309d4?
Obligatory not a professional here, but it seems that you may need to relocate the subwoofer in the vehicle. Could be as simple as rotating the box, moving it to the other side, or something along those lines, but it is most likely destructive interference caused by the way the sound waves are bouncing around the cabin. Could also try reversing the positive and negative leads from the amp to the sub to flip the sub's phase to see if that helps.
is the signal that's being supplied to them the same? Meaning, if the signal output (if drawing from back of head unit or if tying into a speaker signal) may be sending frequencies in one that roll off or don't go as low as in the in other vehicle. Just a guess.
@@TheBradfordG I double check everything. Every settings are same, box, sub, amp, and parameters. It's just so weird. It's even think like what if 1 sub is fake, but nope.
The size and geometry of the cabin itself *can* play a factor as well. Some cars can be very boomy and struggle to go super low just because of a air volume inside of the car itself.
It is also a good idea not to use wood that has been outside or that is old/used, wince it can either brake or rattle, take it from someone who went on budget alot in the past
I don't have social media this is only way I can contact, I'm VERY INTERESTED In your website blueprint build boxes. It says pay (x) amount and later CAF sendS email to discuss plans for box okay Kool . I just wanted to make sure you can make one ported (x2) for the new 2021 Ford Bronco . I'm wanting to put one on each side wall of cargo area . If this can be done ? I will sign up quickly and discuss build thanks
Yeah for a 1" 2x4 sheet. You can get a 4x8 3/4 for 55$. 2 sheets for 110$ and home depot will cut all of them for you,can even double up the faceplate with another cheap 1/2" sheet. For 1 1/4. All under 150$.
Not all of it; a fair bit is from other nearby countries. Ethically, you do need to verify the source of your materials and when they were produced (if it was produced and sold substantially pre-war, well, Russia already got the money, and not using it just hurts your local wood resellers - but if it’s new, then that means that the reseller is violating sanctions and should indeed be boycotted). Also, there are other high-grade high-ply-count plywood panels that are made from other high-density wood species that can be used instead.
@@TxStang well if you like to to be wrong you'd think that. You should have picked an actual baltic state. Anyway the majority of the baltic birch the US imports is from Russia. That's why the majority of US suppliers quit purchasing it. But ok d bag. How much do you buy a year? Every supplier I got it from has all but stopped purchasing it because it mostly comes from Russia. There's other alternatives that are void free. Buy that instead.
Thanks for tuning in guys! Enjoy the video!
Need wiring or wire distribution parts for your car audio build? Check out show sponsor KnuKonceptz!
www.knukonceptz.com/
🔨 Recommended Links
✔️ Box Design Blueprints: www.caraudiofabrication.com/box-designs
✔️ My favorite woodworking router: amzn.to/3HgmUwj
✔️ Compatible Bench Top Router Table: amzn.to/3ecZn2w
✔️ Pro Router Bits: www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
When I built enclosures many moons ago I always used drywall screws and sealed the inside corners with silicone caulk. Why use wood glue only?
What's the best way to work out the air volume? Do you have a video on this already and if so can you link it please
What every this man says about car audio is gospel. The best there is on RUclips and maybe the best ever.
Literally, I don't know id do without u and Dean....for real, thank you!
Probably would have a lousy car audio system lol
Your videos have been a huge game changer for me. I am not usually able to stay focused on any RUclips instructionals, however have no issues following along throughout your videos. Your consistency of solid information and lack of "blah, blah, blah" is above and beyond any I've came across. The information in your videos helped me create my first box with ease "so far anyways", following your tips and instructions to the T.
Totally agree... Most of these guys start rambling about things that have nothing to do with the video subject, or they've got obnoxious overly loud music playing over themselves... I usually don't even make it past about 2 minutes before I lose interest... This guy's got a good format and stays on topic
I've learned a lot about using a router that I have applied to woodworking, which is a new hobby I really enjoy.
I've discovered this channel just about few weeks ago and already learned a lot!
Great job explainingall this stuff 👍👍👍
You'll never want a shop to do audio work for you again.
A butt-joint is the weakest type of joint. (Try lap, dado, or splines)
Nails, pins, screw, dominoes, or dowels should be used in most builds . Bc glue is stronger on larger surface areas.
Use/build a jig for complex cuts.
Know and build for the tuning frequency desired.
Paint/seal the box to prevent moisture issues or spill damage.
Buy a sub that can play at frequencies down to atleast 20hz.
Preach
Do manufacturers of subs publish this? This comment definitely got my attention
my tip would be to have a plan for how you're going to mount it to the vehicle.
Having a box loose in the trunk isn't a terrible idea, especially if you're a spirited driver or if you're ever in a crash. Its also likely you'll damage your sub in normal use like this as well, whether its through abrasion, punctures, impacts or even increased resistance because the cones movement has been impeded by something. Make sure you strap it down or use bolts.
Having a box loose in the trunk *IS* a terrible idea*
Not isn’t! DOH!
Having it so tight you can't get it back out is just as bad ........... I may have to destroy my setup if I ever need to get it out . Good thing though it will be hard to steal LOL
MDF is the BEST material for all speaker cabinets, I play guitar and I researched this in depth.... spent HOURS and HOURS watching scientific tests and all that, this guy is 100% CORRECT!
You should do a video making a box without of those advanced wood power tools. Most people do not have that kind of equipment in their garage.
I've done that before on the channel and it was the worst performing enclosure build videos I've ever had, people say this but the numbers show me what people are most interested in. There's tons of videos out there on using basic tools and getting basic results. I'll be continuing to focus on getting the best results here.
The process to make a good box remains the same. It may not have the same finish as using expensive tools and beauty panels may not be able to have as much detail and you are trading off more work for yourself vs cost of tooling
Man I love your videos. A lot of these tips I already do. I used to build a lot of enclosures 15-20 years ago, and am recently getting back into it trying to figure out the best way to put 2 12s in my dodge ram quad cab (there's nowhere near enough room under that rear seat) I'm thinking about going with a dash-rear seat center console build. Anyway in the meantime I've gotten into a lot of other woodworking. So now I actually have a shop with dust collection and the proper tools. Your videos are really helping me see how I can use all these "new" tools on sub enclosures. Example I never used a router on anything, now I've got 3 now a a good collections of bits lol... I believe the first boxes I built was for behind the seat of my Isuzu pickup and all I had was a jig saw lol. That plus a lot of caulking and I made it work okish... Thank you for the videos
To each their own, but the whole beauty panel thing just doesn’t do it for me. It takes up so much more time and oftentimes looks tacky in my opinion. Even if you like the look, you will hardly ever see it anyway.
I like just plain old school black carpet or whatever it is I don't build then but I prefer very simple designs anyway
I want to take a moment to say that when I found your channel a few years back (2016/2017ish...more than a few, I guess; time flies) I wasn't interested at all in car audio fabrication. I was interested in your cabinet designs, your router techniques, the fit and finish of your projects, and THEN car audio concerns...now after watching your videos for this long, I'm kinda hyped up to try my hand at fabricating some door panels and speaker enclosures for my '67 Mustang. I wouldn't have even thought to bother with it if you didn't produce such inspiring work.
Been patiently waiting for another CAF video. Hyped.
More to come! Thanks for watching.
Gathering my materials now! Can't wait to experience my first subwoofer box build. The biggest challenge is how I'm going to safely mount the box so it never moves even if it's in a accident. Scrolling McMaster for dayyyys lol
I just got everything in place including the amp rack and in fine tuning that same detail not always easy but also pretty permanent you won't be taking it in and out.
@@Kenmarshallintereststxworst nightmare for a thief... I always try and do the same
I remember the days of jig saws and skill saws only! We didn't even have a router in the shop! Much less a router table! Which you use every day.... Impressive to say the least. 😃
I would love any sort of guide on how to tie in an additional sub into an existing "premium" sound system. I have a 21 Elantra, and the LFE just seem lackluster, with the lows never really getting very powerful, so I've been considering the addition of a separate sub that is specifically for about the sub-40 Hz range. It is difficult, however, to find reliable information on how to find an appropriate subwoofer, enclosure, etc, especially since I have yet to find the output wattage of the existing amp in order to try to find a secondary amp in order to help supplement the existing audio without a major overhaul of the entire system.
Your best bet will be an AudioControl LC2i. Affordable, and built to do exactly what you’re after.
Check out his videos on DSP’s as well.
Both allow you to keep factory system in place and add additional amplifiers.
Cheers!
To hit sub 40 Hz, you're gonna need a nice ported enclosure, driver of your choice to take into account the volume needed and how much space you're willing to give up and something like an audiocontrol LC2i along with an amplifier.
I just put an entire system I'm 21 Elantra. Used the stock deck but upgraded everything else. Hertz Deice 6.5 components up front, deici coax's in the back. It takes quite a bit to integrate. I specifically did not get the premium sound system though. If you need help let me know, I can give you some tips.
Yes video, I'm interested in the blueprints you were talking about I've been approached to help build a wall in my neighbor's truck who won the right
As always good content
Great video, Mark. I’m with you on the MDF. 👍🏻
I have 2 rad builds coming up and definitely want to give you the reigns for box plans! I'll email you soon! I've been building boxes for 40 years but love the way you design your boxes
How big a router do you need? Some would say large routers that use 1/2" shaft is the only way to go. Ask a professional cabinetmaker and they would say not really. A 1/4" shaft palm router will do the work nicely and be easier to handle. If you are using a larger bit, make multiple shallow passes instead of one big hog out. When routing out a driver hole, don't go all the way through, as all the support for your circle guide is lost. Instead, leave about 1/16" of material remaining, remove the circle guide and then use a utility knife to cut through the rest. Whatever is still hanging on can be cut off with the knife or use a trim bit. I like to use a 1/8" roundover trimmer for that last step: it leaves a nice smooth edge for the woofer and more importantly, less abrasions when you reach inside.
You are a boss…….love your content
Thank you so much 😀
#11 Have Home Depot or Lowes cut down your first biggest cut oversize by 1” so it much easier to work on the table saw
If you have a portable table saw or not much experience using it... It's not that bad with practice and an out feed table. Which can be anything even or slightly shorter than the table height
Could you do a video on 4th order sub boxes?
At 2:15 are you using brad nails to hold the box until the glue dries? If so, do you have a recommendation on what length of 18 gauge brad nails to use?
I'm currently epoxying my entire mdf box with stone coat countertops epoxy. Its a giant pain in the ass, but it looks incredible.
My tip is if you decide to work with MDF, set up dust collection on your power tools and wear a mask to reduce inhalation of MDF dust, especially if you work indoors.
Can’t see the dust airborne but you’ll definitely feel it when you start coughing 😂
Jb weld is good for sealing corners inside of box I noticed a big difference after bass notes are much tighter and hit harder
Cheers ive just put in an order for a box bluprint.
i use 1-1/2" square hardwood at all joints used at battons...also bracing on large faces and across the length and width
Make sure the box fits your trunk. You mentioned this is a previous video.
Does the shape of the box have an effect on output and/or sound? To get the recommended
volume for my subs I had to make my box L shaped so it would fit under my rear seat. To me, the sound seems off.
When will we see the performance results for the 8inch t-line?
Another important detail is where there going a trunk back of Tahoe or hatch back weather there rear facing up or down... how the sound is gonna flow is also important
Just recently purchased a Mazda 3 2.3 5 door. I have 2 12" kickers. What sub woofer box style do you recommend for good deep bass sound?
Ported
Port speed i made a box purposely for decaf music for 2 12’s and tuned it to 28hz it sound incredible but that port speed is insane and some port noise i have a 12.5 cm diameter port 2 cm thick
Hello Mark! Daniel here and I may say I love to see ur videos and love to see all the new audio gear . Had a question when do u think u will have the speaker aiming tools available again . Thank u. And keep up the amazing work .
Do you have a isobaric build video? And if not do you think you could plan one for your channel. I've always wanted a clean isobaric design and you're designs are always top notch.. ty
Do you think wood screws would be better to use instead of brad nails when assembling the box?
Generally it makes no difference as the glue does the real work holding it together. A very well known enclosure builder actually removes all of the screws from his builds after the glue dries, making the point time after time that they are redundant.
Did you watch the video?
@2:15
When it comes to using tools, I prefer MDF, much easier to work with but I hate the dust! 13ply baltic birch does dull down the router bits fast, I do not like the extremelyyy strong smell of it, Ive never had an issue with the 7 ply birch from Lowes, just comes with some voids in the plys that I patch with wood filler. Almost zero smell from that birch and the dust isnt that bad either!
I got a brand new router for Christmas, but the enclosure I was last working on was finished before Christmas unfortunately....... However I am definitely looking for a good excuse to build another box though lol
Just for clarification. Screws or staples aren't neccessary because the glue is what keeps the box strong right? My brother said if you used screws, they could come loose with the vibrations. He said use a staple gun instead. Thought's?
I run a shoda maxxim cnc at work and a few others and all of the spoil boards "this is the board that the vacuum flows thru and holds the wood that is getting milled to the table". are all mdf there not as airtight as you think . There actually extremely porous
Would my 650 watts rms 10 require a double baffle? I’m going use a 3/4 thick MDF
is there a channel like this for diy car secutity?
Can help me??. How to tuned a box to 28 Hz or lees????
Mark looking at building a custom sub enclosure for my Tacoma. Do to the space being so limited I was wondering if I could mix 1/2” and 3/4” MDF with some bracing inside on 1/2”
Mark - hope you see this question. I was an installer for over 20 years and for the last 8 of those I was using Trupan cabinet grade MDF and LOVED IT! All the enclosures (including three in my own cars) are glued and screwed, corners sealed, and the entire inside of the enclosure painted with latex housepaint to prevent 'breathing". What is your opinion and experience?
Do you build boxes for viewers?
Not at this time. Thanks for the interest though! If you need a blueprint plan we can help with that! www.caraudiofabrication.com/box-designs
I pre-cut with a jigsaw or bandsaw then finish with router.... I use expensive bits so I want them to remain cooler and stay sharp and not get gummed up
Great video! I have a 07 Honda CRV and want to add a small sub for added low-end bass. I mostly listen to classical. Would one of those subs that fit under the seat be a good choice?
Don't buy MDF from the big box stores if they look like they have been exposed to moisture . I bought the last 2 sheets the store had in stock and they had very minor staining on them , put them in the shop and came back on Monday to them being covered in green mildew everywhere there was a stain . I returned them with no issues but the new load they got in a few days later were all damp , the young man working the lumber area claimed that it came in on the truck uncovered no tarps and the plastic wrap was wet .
What software do you recommend to design enclosures?
There is no one software. Everyone thinks there is a software that let's you just say what space you have available and out pops the perfect design. It takes mostly math and design knowledge.
Just put a nakamichi sub (one of those compact ones) in my '14 wrangler, sounds great but it seems to overheat and cut off.
Installed in the back (2-door) cus it wouldnt fit under the seat, how can i fix this issue before my car catches fire???
If running 2 subwoofers, is it possible to have one ported and one sealed? Or would this just not work?
Thanks for all your videos, great info 👍🏻
Sure it's possible... You would obviously have to have a divider in the box... I'm considering doing this myself to get the benefits of sealed and ported together
Can I get help or advise for a jl w7 12?
Do you build and sell custom enclosures? I am looking for an Baltic Birch plywood constructed enclosure for four 8” subs. Thank you for your reply!
Would a T-line subwoofer enclosure with a smaller subwoofer play better than a larger subwoofer in a "regular" enclosure?
No, A T-Line is RARELY a good choice for a car audio system. I know people like to elude to them being magical, but there is a reason they are very rarely used.
Good luck getting Baltic birch.
Hi! Is it possible to connect a 16000w sub to a 14000w monoblock?
Subwoofer - Starsound SSW-M-16000
Monoblock- Icepower 14000w Class D
That sub is rated 1500 W RMS and that amp spec says it can put out 1500 W RMS at 2 ohms.
If you have the D4 version of the sub you can wire both coils in parallel to bring it to 2 ohms. Otherwise if you have the D2 it can only be wired to either 1 ohm or 4 ohms. That amp is rated for 2000 W RMS at 1 ohm, so it will still work. As always just set gain properly so you don't clip at high volume, and limit the power that the amp puts out so the sub doesn't overheat.
@@kmidst_kn6329 thank you so much for the advice was a bit lost in what to do and yes it's the D4 version 😀
I have a 1979 Caprice, i dont see a box build for that on your web site
🔴 if i could only choose one which is better double baffle or bracing?
You should do both tbh
What about ply?
My whole car is wired with Knukonceptz..
how do I get one of those sweet shirts?
They have them on their site!
Do you only glue? No screws?
The glue adds the strength to the joint. Screws/nails are just to hold it together while it dries.
I've always wanted to you crate me a subwoofer box but I don't know how to reach you
I have designed 2 box for pioneer tsw309d4, and strange that same woofer, same amp, ssme box, 2 different car, one nissan note and one toyota tercel, they totally sound different, in nissan note, lows are death. Why? How can i make my low hertz more hear able in nissan note with tsw309d4?
Obligatory not a professional here, but it seems that you may need to relocate the subwoofer in the vehicle. Could be as simple as rotating the box, moving it to the other side, or something along those lines, but it is most likely destructive interference caused by the way the sound waves are bouncing around the cabin. Could also try reversing the positive and negative leads from the amp to the sub to flip the sub's phase to see if that helps.
is the signal that's being supplied to them the same? Meaning, if the signal output (if drawing from back of head unit or if tying into a speaker signal) may be sending frequencies in one that roll off or don't go as low as in the in other vehicle. Just a guess.
@@ariccanady1926 yes I've tried different positions, whenever sub look at front "to driver's sit, it's better. But it's so strange..
@@TheBradfordG I double check everything. Every settings are same, box, sub, amp, and parameters. It's just so weird. It's even think like what if 1 sub is fake, but nope.
The size and geometry of the cabin itself *can* play a factor as well. Some cars can be very boomy and struggle to go super low just because of a air volume inside of the car itself.
It is also a good idea not to use wood that has been outside or that is old/used, wince it can either brake or rattle, take it from someone who went on budget alot in the past
Meanwhile I had my last jigsaw blade break halfway through cutting the subwoofer hole so I finished it by drilling a bunch of holes in a circle
My only tip is wear a good respirator and control your dust with mdf, it’s terrible for your lungs in the long term
Mark i need help
I don't have social media this is only way I can contact, I'm VERY INTERESTED In your website blueprint build boxes. It says pay (x) amount and later CAF sendS email to discuss plans for box okay Kool . I just wanted to make sure you can make one ported (x2) for the new 2021 Ford Bronco . I'm wanting to put one on each side wall of cargo area . If this can be done ? I will sign up quickly and discuss build thanks
1728
That box looks small for those subs.
Lol. Okay 👍
Of course the mdf, and plywood is still around $100 a sheet!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah for a 1" 2x4 sheet. You can get a 4x8 3/4 for 55$. 2 sheets for 110$ and home depot will cut all of them for you,can even double up the faceplate with another cheap 1/2" sheet. For 1 1/4. All under 150$.
Don't use Baltic birch it's from Russia.
Not all of it; a fair bit is from other nearby countries. Ethically, you do need to verify the source of your materials and when they were produced (if it was produced and sold substantially pre-war, well, Russia already got the money, and not using it just hurts your local wood resellers - but if it’s new, then that means that the reseller is violating sanctions and should indeed be boycotted).
Also, there are other high-grade high-ply-count plywood panels that are made from other high-density wood species that can be used instead.
Actually 90% of what comes into the USA is from Finland ......
@@TxStang well if you like to to be wrong you'd think that. You should have picked an actual baltic state. Anyway the majority of the baltic birch the US imports is from Russia. That's why the majority of US suppliers quit purchasing it. But ok d bag. How much do you buy a year? Every supplier I got it from has all but stopped purchasing it because it mostly comes from Russia. There's other alternatives that are void free. Buy that instead.