I followed the instructions in this video, and made a home sub for Sundown audio x12 v.3. Plays clean at low volumes, hard and deep at high volumes😏 and has a very good freuqnecy response. and looks alright too. Recommended
Built one like this for an AB1244 like 4 years ago. Played 25hz like a champ and rolled off quick after 80hz or so. Not flat output by any means, but adding a bit of deadener to the back and side walls brought a nasty 34hz peak down by 3db. Good tutorial on this, BTW.
I have been building boxes for years but this is one I didn't know thanks very much man now I know how to get them to play really low the 1.33 I would have never thought about you are awesome
I've been designing and building speaker boxes since age 12. taking designs from existing console stereo enclosures from 50'thru 70's and usunt what works for my needs. using salvaged stereo components from different stereo console units and building enclosures for each as needed. .the discarded stereos were usully in ned of new fuses of a minor repair of. broken solder connection or wire. investing my time and labor was the only expense but for the fuses I might need. For speakers discarded kitchen cabinets work very well. I could modify them as i chose and to the required sizes. many of the console cabinets were of very good hard woods and usually mostly or entirely intact. only needing sanding and refinishing. the condition of speakers was a concern but they were usually intact and in fair to good condition. the components i salvaged were anything from the radio ,and stereo amplifier to record changer or tape deck of every sort like reel to reel, 8-Track and cassette decks. people just toss the whole thing and buy a new one. even when only one part of the whole unit is broken or inoperative. usually due to a blown fuse they either didn't know of or couldn't find. I simply looked in the usual places for the fuses or broken connections and replaced a fuse of re-solder the connection. a few minutes work for a good stereo component I can enjoy. I am a "Pack Rat" and collect wires. cables and connectors of all types to be able to hook up my stereo and AV components as i need to. Remember that Car stereo was originally adapted from home steei and evolved throughout the years. I currantly use a good quality headset for listening to music and anything online through my computer. with a 23" HD flat screene monitor. with a native 16X9 aspect ratio.. no need for such large home theater set up.. I do have a 100" big screen and a good video projector but as my eyesight get worse as I age the monitor up close is better for me to see and I have no need for hogh powered surround sound... lets say I out grew that habit. bigger isn't always better. If I want the whole home theater experience I'll build a "Mirco Theater. A comfortable small sound proof box with a good quality UHD TV and my full surround sound setup built into it all built around a comfy recliner with cup holders and remote tray. well sound proofed with layered carpet padding glued inside and out. I have the desibns in my head and have decided on the over all size. which because I need to accommodate the wall hugger recliner and sound proofing. the speakers will be built into the intrnal structure. including the subwoofer custom built under the shelf for the TV and stereo unit. as I said this is to be a Micro home theater just big enough for one or perhaps 2 snuggled closely. the largst expense will be the custom ordered recliner. The rest I either already have on hand or isn't very expensive. the hardest part of the design was figuring out the sound proofing .. higher frequencies are no problem but the deep Bass/lower frequencies penetrate almost anything. the remedy for that is lots of soft sound absorbing mass. I found the solution in a relative cheap solution of dense carpet padding. layering it to the desired thickness to isolate the sound to the inside of my private movie box. I came up with this whole idea and design one afternoon when I thought to myself what was the minimum I might need for a home theater. and how much room for up to 2 people to enjoy a movie in full surround sound. then it took me about 10 min. to design the basic structure of the box and electronics set up. the sound system is fairly standard if very compact. as is the whole thing. designes can be altered for bigger recliner love seat. width being the main concern for that scenario. and therefore more soundproofing materials. and a little more plywood. the minimum needed is best for this design. .. that said the monitor and a geeo headset works just fine for now. but for the full theater experience my Micro Theater concept seems to be a good solution as well. If a little involved .. the only other concern is ventilation inside the box. but then i have the solution to that little problem integrated into the design of the floor with a few small fans and venting scheme. isolation from the groundand the air gap under the box floor are the key as the floor of my room is concrete and on ground level stays cool all the time so venting over that concrete floor to cool the air is the solution i came up with.. I very low budget AC unit at minimal cost and parts...a couple of computer fans and routing the air where i want it to go throughout the inside of my movie box the sound deadening will also act as insulation. maintainint a comfortable temp should be easy. if I get a litle too warm just flip a switch on and if too cool shut it off. or maybe a thermostatic control for that little bit will be the ticket.set it and forget it. once i know the temp i'm comfy at. sorry this is so very long. when i'm excited about abuild of any kind I get carried away tellling all I can about it.. ADHD does that. but it also speeds up thought processes when i deside to use it in that way. usually my mind won't shut down at all. so designs flit theough my brain almost constantly... O sinple speaker box is almost too easy fo me to visualize in detail and have dinensions almost as sooon as the basic design accurs to me.
Just an error correction regarding Decibel: 3 DB = 2x 10 DB = 10x 13 DB = 20x 16 DB = 40x 20 DB = 100x One Bel (decibel = 1/10th Bel) always multiplies your origin value with 10 and it is used for setting values into relation. For example antenna gain. An antenna can gain up a signal of one millivolt to 40 millivolt. That's 40 times in relation to without any antenna at all. How often does 10 db fit in here? 1 time, because to fit twice the signal has to be 100mv. And from here you go in 3 fb steps. 0db = 1mv (in relation to the original signal) 10db = 10mv 13db = 20mv (bc additional 3db =twice the value) 16db =40mv So many text for nothing, but I hope my example can help a little bit in understanding. Ah, btw: In acoustics (volume, SPL, sound pressure etc.) the relation is set to the faintest sound a human can hear. Don't ask me what the unit/term/formula for that sound is. Maybe someone can Google and post the answer here. I have to go to bed now. Have a nice Easter everyone!
It's actually even more fun than that! While it is true that a 3dB increase is equal to a 2x increase in power, the actual amplitude (in the case of audio, the distance the driver physically moves) of the signal is only increased by the square root of 2! Anyone familiar with square roots might notice that this means a 6dB increase is required to double the amplitude of a signal, as √2 × √2 = 2. This is the same as 3dB + 3dB = 6dB. But wait! There's more! Humans generally don't perceive stimuli linearly: simply doubling the power (or amplitude) doesn't mean we see the stimulus as twice as strong! In the case of audio, this relationship is heavily dependent on frequency: we may be less sensitive to lower frequencies than "mid-range" frequencies, but we are much more sensitive to *changes* in volume at lower frequencies than mid-range frequencies. As a rule of thumb, to double the perceived loudness of a 1kHz audio signal, you need an increase of 10dB: 10 times the power! However, down in the bass region, a doubling of loudness requires an increase of only 4-5dB or so: roughly 3 times the power. For anyone interested in learning more about perceived loudness, look up equal-loudness contours: there are actually several common sets, and because it's technically a subjective measurement, the exact numbers involved will vary from person to person. Decibels and biological perception are confusing topics, very easily misunderstood and mixed up, and also fascinating when you think about them. Did you know there's not just one meaning of "decibel?" Depending on the context and measurement, there are different uses of the term! At its core, a decibel is a relative measurement where 0 dB is equal to "times 1", but in audio you'll frequently find "dB SPL", which is an absolute measurement of the energy of a sound, or "dBA" which is similar, but biases the measurement such that frequencies we're more sensitive to count more than others. "dBm" is an absolute measure of power, "dBV" is an absolute measurement of voltage, and so on! So while the loudest an amplifier might go is "0 dB" (meaning no decrease in power from its maximum output), that same output can also be measured as some very high (100+) dB SPL (how much pressure the driver is producing), or even db SWL (the power being put out by the driver)!
@@tavaresa13 thank you for your excellent addition to the topic! The nonlinearity in human perception of loudness is BTW the reason, why audio preamps have a logarithmic potentiometer for volume control (in case someone didn't know). Have a great time!
I built a massive slot port box to spec for a 15" L7s a year ago for 28hz and didn't realize the port volume was a little too big for it, the bottoming out sounded horrendous lol. learned a biiiiiig lesson making that thing haha great video.
Award Winning video IMO! This is what you do if you want really DEEP bass. Did this technique for my JL 10 and had to use several feet of 3" flexport as my port was tuned so low to get the right response. Essentially a coil of port tube in the enclosure tuned very low. Requires a high power amplifier to get the excursion needed to make it work; but sound is amazingly DEEP and not the boomy duff duff boom-boxy sound. Even without the DSP controls, the enclosure is well behaved and not boomy. Have to roll the windows down to get the extremely low frequency stuff out. :)
@@TimpBizkit True. The long port full of air acts as a moving mass, just like a passive radiator. I didn't have any area to install a passive radiator as it was a stealth box install.
@@haraldpost It was tuned to about 28 Hz and flared with a horn at both ends to reduce chuffing. Powered by JL 250 watt amp at the time. It would indeed chuff like a choo choo when pushed hard at the very bottom end when you got close to port tuned frequency.
Sound video. I am planning a sub, sub for my hifi using an old car sub. Good to see someone else thinking the same ideas. Using winisd is the key I needed. Many thanks.
No questions this is the most badass video on RUclips for building a box, funny thing is how I found it after I built mine, I happened to use sub box pro and it turned out really good, one problem I found was finding take offs for your internal 45s, soo I ended up taking them out with my sub displacement. If your could provide that and how to factor them into your box would be cool. I’m running a 12” Fi 4.11 fully loaded 4-5000 Rms and it fucking slams!
also all 90 degree turns in the port lowers ur tunning usually 1 turn = 1hz lower so your box could be tunned to around 17hz (but i think its gonna be around 18-19hz u can find it out by checking on what f the sub has smallest excursion (i hope you understand)
This video was the most informative and easy to follow!!!, I assume that adding a filler, like polyfiller, or insulation helps when there isn't enough space for the optimal enclosure size, But is that the best way too solve less area!!??
Thank you Sir. Awesome video, audio, clarity, tutorial, lessons & non condescending explanations. I've been designing & building enclosures for 3 decades & found your methods to be a great help. I don't have winsd but do use boxpro. Look forward to your videos.
Great Video... Question, Does the length of the Aeroport not matter? I'm just started getting into the more technical side of car audio so I would like to know. Thank you for your time.
I appreciate the video. I’m new to subs and want to do it RIGHT. It’s nice to know a couple tricks but I’ve noticed sub placement, wire quality, OFC or CCA, the amp the radio the OHM the voice coil the box just so much to go into it. And something like even improving wire quality makes a noticeable difference, now I know if I do all of this right and well then these noticeable differences will turn into MASSIVE differences. I want rock hard deep bass that serves well in all areas but also I really want amazing quality, it feels so good to feel GOOD punchy bass rather than just punchy bass.
I'm an engineer with an interest in making a nearfield sub for my Home cinema. I found your video extremely useful for trhinking through the process and considering the shortfalls of the software. It's not easy to find a sub for infrasonic delivery that doesn't need to play loud... so I'll make one :). I'll watch through more of your content. Are there any differences that I need to take into account besides cabin gain if I'm using WinISD for my cabinet design?
1:35 is wrong. Those kind of subs are made for (as you mention in the video) high Sound Pressure Levels, and often have a Resonant frequency of about 35hz. There are better options like home theater subs to get low easily. The 10“ dayton reference woofer for example has a frs of 25hz, which will make it much easier to tune it lower. And also, you don‘t need such high power levels (like 500 or 1000W). What‘s more important is the efficiency of the sub at 1W. From there on, you can multiply the power for a 3dB increase. E.g.: 91dB/W/m -> 1W = 91dB, 2W = 94dB, 4W = 97dB…. 256W=115dB. E.g. 84dB/W/m => 1W=84dB, 2W=87dB… 1024W=114dB
I remember when I was 16 just got my first car, a clapped out 94 Sentra. I was broke so didn't have money to just go buy a $80 box for 2 10's. My dad had alot of 1" thick plywood and I had did this same design and made it oversized not entirely knowing what I was doing at the time but it worked. I had 2 Rockford Fosgate P1's 10" woofers running this old ass kicker zr1000 amp my uncle gave me he had sitting in his attic for years was barely able to angle the box into the trunk, but man that system would hit lows so hard it felt like it was hard to breathe and would make your nose tickle. I had friends who had like a 15inch kicker or 2 twelves everything they got from the local audio shop and yea their systems were loud but more rattling than anything and my little 10s were just pushing alot more air and hitting deeper frequencies. Alot of people asked what I had and never even heard of Rockford Fosgate.
I spent countless hours designing a box for sub frquencies. It peaked at 19hz. It was 16 cubic feet total. The port volume was just shy of the box volume. I built it for my buddies live sound rig. Sadly he never even tried it mixed in with the live rig. It wound up getting burned. But it was a fckn earth quake machine.
I usually start with Winisd and then I use Torres to get my box size and tuning. After that I go into SketchUp and model the box so I can factor in all the port bends.
22 minutes , listening . well worth it Bro . Loved your idea n presentatioin ...... Well done . Boy , that was ffffffffffffeeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnntttttttttttttttttaaaaaaassssssssssssstttttttttiiiiiiiiiiiiicccccccccccccccc , Mate . Hatttttttttttttttsssssss offfffffffffffffffff to you , I will just follow the last numbers . Will it be the same for my 2008 sedan , please ...... ???
That's interesting about the larger ports higher tuning- I say lies guys on here with those octoports and 10-in round ports They are huge but they're banging out the lows
sub box pro does the "baffle extension" for you. you just have to cut the wood and make a 3rd port wall. play with the numbers and you will see. although you cant see it, its there. try adding .5 cubes to airspace and you will see depth wont change.
Great info. Going to take it and apply it to a single cab truck design. There has to be a way to get better base out of a behind the seat design box. Has any one every used tapered ports to increase velocity with out having the proper distance do to enclosure requirements?
Wow! too detailed for layman like me... I was kinda hoping just keying sub name and desired Low frequency and "vwalla" a box design emerges... Eg Pioneer 12" TS-W3003D4 Champion Series PRO 2000W Car Subwoofer, and desiring 25Hz... what will be the box dimensions?
Will all this work the same for theater subs? I have box ideas for powered subs for home theater applications, I can listen to music anywhere but I really want people talking about the surround sound I design and of course with any good action movie or whatever you really want to FEEL like you are in it,,, you really want to hear thunder on tv and think that there's a storm outside only to realize it came from the room you are in, are there settings for the size room and things of that nature? And if not are there any that you or anyone can suggest?
At some point I noticed that certain subs _sound_ deeper or shallower than others at the same note like say 30 or 40hz. They both clearly play the same note but there's either a deep or shallow undertone present. This is different to "getting down to 10hz". Anyone know what I'm talking about? I feel like this is an underrated characteristic that isn't noticed or talked about often enough and I'm trying to figure out how to build it
I have 2 ground zero gziw 300 - II it has 10mm xmax and 350w rms but i have a big box and im gonna try to add 2 extra walls inside the box to see if it helps with lower frequenzies
Good afternoon I have a question for you. Do you know what software program is used that I can put in the idea I have for Tops and subs and it would give me the best way to make speaker boxes
I have autostudio ref12d2 and winisd when I put all specs that I can find says ”Driver data fails intergity check” when I click it says that ”Considtency check on Qts, Qms, Qes” and I placed the parametrics that I found on those
the best tutorial on YT for a sub design, Can you do a video for a DIY Home Theater Sub box. Do you do project design? would like to get your contact details, if its possible?
Can passive radiators work as well, for super low, as ports? If yes is there any source of info on that as the freekin thorough info you have here for ports? Thanks!
I have a jbl cs1204 12 inch drive. However, I cannot find the technical data mentioned in the video for this driver. Therefore I couldn't do anything. I want to make the best cabinet for this driver and use it in my home theater system. Can you help me?
Question, at 19:40 when you had to make the adjustment on your box and your port didn't line up with the front of the box... when you added the 1.35 or whatever it was, couldn't you just remove that 1.35 from the end of the 3rd interior port wall on the inside? Or would that change the tuning as well considering that'd be adding space inside?
I built a 13 cube box 4th order bandpass for one pro fosgate 12 It was insane you could literally vibrate items off the counter at the local gas station My friends would come out the store and say the cashier is confused and thinks it's an earthquake 😂
Dosent changing the height and width of the box at that point alter the tuning because its based on the volume or does the box software keep everything where its needed to prevent the response from changing?
How many HZ soo I can get that deep low clean bass I have 2 L7 Q class with 300A Alternator Big 3 and running 1/0 kicker OFC wire with 2 XS Power D4800 batteries and a Cxa1800.1
I got wonderful sound from two recycled 8" Andrew Jones subwoofers, push pull, in a sealed box I made with plenty of stuffed animal fluff inside, and powered by two cheap chinese class D subwoofer amps.
Any feelings on kerfed ports? I've heard your port starts at point of desired port area... And do flare the inside opening? Subs closer as possible to each other or further apart as possible or no difference. If port ends half way thru do you add another 90° to aim towards the baffle? My current single 18 is tuned to 28htz it slams on bass boosted music but totally flops in higher notes and starts clipping very soon.
3:44 QUESTION: Is 1.33x the manufacturer recommended net volume size of the min, mid, or max number they provide? Meaning, my 15" Fi Neo 4.11 is recommend I use 3ft³-5ft³ per sub. So do I multiply 1.33 by 3, 4, or 5? It's important to know I will be clamping a little more than their rated power of 4500 (rated 4500 but Fi says up to 7500 so I have each sub connected to it's own Taramps Bass 8K wired down to 0.7 ohm = 10,000 RMS Watts per sub but again, I expect to clamp only 5k each). Sub's Fs is 33.6Hz so I chose 33.6Hz as my box tuning with port area of 16in² per cubic foot of net volume as recommended. For more info and videos, see my RUclips channel for build updates which starting June 2021 will be with my new larger custom enclosure of 8.5ft³ net (4.25 per sub) whereas now (May 2021) they are in a "labyrinth enclosure" (2 individual long winding ports) and only 2.75ft³ each sub net volume and port area half of what is required (8in² vs 16in²) which both (port area AND net volume) are greatly undersized.
I've asked before but nvr got a response I have 4 skar svr12s so is 10.5 cubes good and tuned to 20hz with a port area of 11cubes per cubic ft is that ok or does port area got to be lower
Great video. Abridged text version: Increase the size of your box approx 1.5 times the mfg suggested size and lower port tuning. Doing so will kill 3-5db of total output so plan on doubling power, adding another woofer or both to get the output back. The engineering acronym never changes. TANSTAAFL There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch. These days power is ridiculously cheap so power up and let em slap!
Just an FYI, modeling excursion you can go to the filters tab, click add go to high pass you can use a Butterworth or a link which Riley and then put in your desired crossover frequency for an infrasonic filter and click add, it will show you the adjusted cone excursion. You could also see your sound pressure loss by clicking back to transfer function magnitude. As well under filters you can add a linkwitz transform by setting the f0 to where transfer function begins in your vehicle, and setting the second f0 number to lowest frequency you want to model down to. Then click add.
With the cone excursion, I’m having problems where I’ve done it for 2 different subs and boxes and I’m getting like 200mm😂 but I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, one of them was even building it to exactly what the manufacturer says? And the power is also to what the manufacturer says which was 1500w rms, please help, it’s my first time using winisd😬😫
Ok so questions if I have a dvc 4 wired in parallel which drops too 2ohms and 2 of them which drops too 1ohm and 1200 watt amp I'm a building a box for a 2ohm sub 600rms or is 1 at 600 or 1 at 1200 or maybe I'm over thinking it
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Done this for twenty years and that is one of the most dead on common sense language breakdowns of the process I have seen. Great vid!
Hands down - this is the best box design video I have ever seen!
I agree, very detailed and understandable
Yup very helpful, always looking fir info on how to tune a box and this clarified a lot fir me
this is best sub box design video out here on youtube
idk about that for sure but thanks man!!
I was going to get a gsg full Marty box but this program makes me wanna go do something I cut out meeself
I followed the instructions in this video, and made a home sub for Sundown audio x12 v.3. Plays clean at low volumes, hard and deep at high volumes😏 and has a very good freuqnecy response. and looks alright too. Recommended
You have the blueprint ?
Built one like this for an AB1244 like 4 years ago. Played 25hz like a champ and rolled off quick after 80hz or so. Not flat output by any means, but adding a bit of deadener to the back and side walls brought a nasty 34hz peak down by 3db.
Good tutorial on this, BTW.
My XFL 15" can play down to 15hz in the 32hz enclosure. The sunroof just about flies off. It rolls off fast after like 70hz though
One of the best and most complete breakdowns on design and tweaking of a sub box I've seen yet... Nice job...
I have been building boxes for years but this is one I didn't know thanks very much man now I know how to get them to play really low the 1.33 I would have never thought about you are awesome
I just got started with winISD and this is a great video to get you started and not hung on the ropes! Outstanding!
I've been designing and building speaker boxes since age 12. taking designs from existing console stereo enclosures from 50'thru 70's and usunt what works for my needs. using salvaged stereo components from different stereo console units and building enclosures for each as needed. .the discarded stereos were usully in ned of new fuses of a minor repair of. broken solder connection or wire. investing my time and labor was the only expense but for the fuses I might need. For speakers discarded kitchen cabinets work very well. I could modify them as i chose and to the required sizes. many of the console cabinets were of very good hard woods and usually mostly or entirely intact. only needing sanding and refinishing. the condition of speakers was a concern but they were usually intact and in fair to good condition. the components i salvaged were anything from the radio ,and stereo amplifier to record changer or tape deck of every sort like reel to reel, 8-Track and cassette decks. people just toss the whole thing and buy a new one. even when only one part of the whole unit is broken or inoperative. usually due to a blown fuse they either didn't know of or couldn't find. I simply looked in the usual places for the fuses or broken connections and replaced a fuse of re-solder the connection. a few minutes work for a good stereo component I can enjoy. I am a "Pack Rat" and collect wires. cables and connectors of all types to be able to hook up my stereo and AV components as i need to. Remember that Car stereo was originally adapted from home steei and evolved throughout the years. I currantly use a good quality headset for listening to music and anything online through my computer. with a 23" HD flat screene monitor. with a native 16X9 aspect ratio.. no need for such large home theater set up.. I do have a 100" big screen and a good video projector but as my eyesight get worse as I age the monitor up close is better for me to see and I have no need for hogh powered surround sound... lets say I out grew that habit. bigger isn't always better. If I want the whole home theater experience I'll build a "Mirco Theater. A comfortable small sound proof box with a good quality UHD TV and my full surround sound setup built into it all built around a comfy recliner with cup holders and remote tray. well sound proofed with layered carpet padding glued inside and out. I have the desibns in my head and have decided on the over all size. which because I need to accommodate the wall hugger recliner and sound proofing. the speakers will be built into the intrnal structure. including the subwoofer custom built under the shelf for the TV and stereo unit. as I said this is to be a Micro home theater just big enough for one or perhaps 2 snuggled closely. the largst expense will be the custom ordered recliner. The rest I either already have on hand or isn't very expensive. the hardest part of the design was figuring out the sound proofing .. higher frequencies are no problem but the deep Bass/lower frequencies penetrate almost anything. the remedy for that is lots of soft sound absorbing mass. I found the solution in a relative cheap solution of dense carpet padding. layering it to the desired thickness to isolate the sound to the inside of my private movie box. I came up with this whole idea and design one afternoon when I thought to myself what was the minimum I might need for a home theater. and how much room for up to 2 people to enjoy a movie in full surround sound. then it took me about 10 min. to design the basic structure of the box and electronics set up. the sound system is fairly standard if very compact. as is the whole thing. designes can be altered for bigger recliner love seat. width being the main concern for that scenario. and therefore more soundproofing materials. and a little more plywood. the minimum needed is best for this design. .. that said the monitor and a geeo headset works just fine for now. but for the full theater experience my Micro Theater concept seems to be a good solution as well. If a little involved .. the only other concern is ventilation inside the box. but then i have the solution to that little problem integrated into the design of the floor with a few small fans and venting scheme. isolation from the groundand the air gap under the box floor are the key as the floor of my room is concrete and on ground level stays cool all the time so venting over that concrete floor to cool the air is the solution i came up with.. I very low budget AC unit at minimal cost and parts...a couple of computer fans and routing the air where i want it to go throughout the inside of my movie box the sound deadening will also act as insulation. maintainint a comfortable temp should be easy. if I get a litle too warm just flip a switch on and if too cool shut it off. or maybe a thermostatic control for that little bit will be the ticket.set it and forget it. once i know the temp i'm comfy at. sorry this is so very long. when i'm excited about abuild of any kind I get carried away tellling all I can about it.. ADHD does that. but it also speeds up thought processes when i deside to use it in that way. usually my mind won't shut down at all. so designs flit theough my brain almost constantly... O sinple speaker box is almost too easy fo me to visualize in detail and have dinensions almost as sooon as the basic design accurs to me.
Great video very straightforward and you explained many of the questions I had no one else explained
Just an error correction regarding Decibel:
3 DB = 2x
10 DB = 10x
13 DB = 20x
16 DB = 40x
20 DB = 100x
One Bel (decibel = 1/10th Bel) always multiplies your origin value with 10 and it is used for setting values into relation. For example antenna gain. An antenna can gain up a signal of one millivolt to 40 millivolt. That's 40 times in relation to without any antenna at all.
How often does 10 db fit in here?
1 time, because to fit twice the signal has to be 100mv. And from here you go in 3 fb steps.
0db = 1mv (in relation to the original signal)
10db = 10mv
13db = 20mv (bc additional 3db =twice the value)
16db =40mv
So many text for nothing, but I hope my example can help a little bit in understanding.
Ah, btw:
In acoustics (volume, SPL, sound pressure etc.) the relation is set to the faintest sound a human can hear. Don't ask me what the unit/term/formula for that sound is. Maybe someone can Google and post the answer here. I have to go to bed now.
Have a nice Easter everyone!
It's actually even more fun than that!
While it is true that a 3dB increase is equal to a 2x increase in power, the actual amplitude (in the case of audio, the distance the driver physically moves) of the signal is only increased by the square root of 2! Anyone familiar with square roots might notice that this means a 6dB increase is required to double the amplitude of a signal, as √2 × √2 = 2. This is the same as 3dB + 3dB = 6dB.
But wait! There's more!
Humans generally don't perceive stimuli linearly: simply doubling the power (or amplitude) doesn't mean we see the stimulus as twice as strong! In the case of audio, this relationship is heavily dependent on frequency: we may be less sensitive to lower frequencies than "mid-range" frequencies, but we are much more sensitive to *changes* in volume at lower frequencies than mid-range frequencies.
As a rule of thumb, to double the perceived loudness of a 1kHz audio signal, you need an increase of 10dB: 10 times the power! However, down in the bass region, a doubling of loudness requires an increase of only 4-5dB or so: roughly 3 times the power. For anyone interested in learning more about perceived loudness, look up equal-loudness contours: there are actually several common sets, and because it's technically a subjective measurement, the exact numbers involved will vary from person to person.
Decibels and biological perception are confusing topics, very easily misunderstood and mixed up, and also fascinating when you think about them. Did you know there's not just one meaning of "decibel?" Depending on the context and measurement, there are different uses of the term! At its core, a decibel is a relative measurement where 0 dB is equal to "times 1", but in audio you'll frequently find "dB SPL", which is an absolute measurement of the energy of a sound, or "dBA" which is similar, but biases the measurement such that frequencies we're more sensitive to count more than others. "dBm" is an absolute measure of power, "dBV" is an absolute measurement of voltage, and so on! So while the loudest an amplifier might go is "0 dB" (meaning no decrease in power from its maximum output), that same output can also be measured as some very high (100+) dB SPL (how much pressure the driver is producing), or even db SWL (the power being put out by the driver)!
@@tavaresa13 thank you for your excellent addition to the topic!
The nonlinearity in human perception of loudness is BTW the reason, why audio preamps have a logarithmic potentiometer for volume control (in case someone didn't know).
Have a great time!
@@tavaresa13Yea sound perception is a hard thing to measure. There’s no absolute standard just estimates and rule of thumbs.
Great video. Many thanks.
I built a massive slot port box to spec for a 15" L7s a year ago for 28hz and didn't realize the port volume was a little too big for it, the bottoming out sounded horrendous lol. learned a biiiiiig lesson making that thing haha great video.
Your video is a life saver, made a 25hz box, for my 1500w woofer and it plays lows so good. Thank you for this video man!
Award Winning video IMO! This is what you do if you want really DEEP bass.
Did this technique for my JL 10 and had to use several feet of 3" flexport as my port was tuned so low to get the right response. Essentially a coil of port tube in the enclosure tuned very low. Requires a high power amplifier to get the excursion needed to make it work; but sound is amazingly DEEP and not the boomy duff duff boom-boxy sound.
Even without the DSP controls, the enclosure is well behaved and not boomy.
Have to roll the windows down to get the extremely low frequency stuff out. :)
A single 3" port for 10" subwoofer...? That models to.. oh my.. 76 m/s (!!!) of port chuff @ 22 hz @ 450 watts... for my 10" subwoofer.
You're better off with a passive radiator (or 2) in a small box, as your port starts to look like a small intestine to get it low enough.
@@TimpBizkit True. The long port full of air acts as a moving mass, just like a passive radiator. I didn't have any area to install a passive radiator as it was a stealth box install.
@@haraldpost It was tuned to about 28 Hz and flared with a horn at both ends to reduce chuffing. Powered by JL 250 watt amp at the time.
It would indeed chuff like a choo choo when pushed hard at the very bottom end when you got close to port tuned frequency.
Amazing video man, now we would love to see one on sealed enclosures thanks
Sound video. I am planning a sub, sub for my hifi using an old car sub. Good to see someone else thinking the same ideas. Using winisd is the key I needed. Many thanks.
No questions this is the most badass video on RUclips for building a box, funny thing is how I found it after I built mine, I happened to use sub box pro and it turned out really good, one problem I found was finding take offs for your internal 45s, soo I ended up taking them out with my sub displacement. If your could provide that and how to factor them into your box would be cool. I’m running a 12” Fi 4.11 fully loaded 4-5000 Rms and it fucking slams!
Great tutorial I hope I can finally design a home sub box for my new theater. Really looking to go between 15-18hz. Thanks for sharing.
Really great quality content Chriso. Keep up the great work.
Thanks dude!!
Tnx for the info sir. More power
@@chrisosbass1286 can I pay you to design a subwoofer box. I'll cash app you If you could. I have 1 skar audio vxf 15
@@thetruthtings you got this awesome video that gives you all the knowledge to do it yourself!!
@@BabyBlue.23 nope I'm lazy can I pay you to design me a box since you replied and he didn't
This is the comprehensive and detailed video I've been looking for. Thank you!
Only just found this video but omg I've learnt so much from this 1 video than all the others combined
also all 90 degree turns in the port lowers ur tunning usually 1 turn = 1hz lower so your box could be tunned to around 17hz (but i think its gonna be around 18-19hz u can find it out by checking on what f the sub has smallest excursion (i hope you understand)
Thank you for the WinIsd 101 tutorial, and all the helpful information required for designing a box
Superb! Well done. Clear, logical instructions.
There's a lot of important information here thank you very much.
you sir, just earned a SUB, damn bass NERD! i love it!!!
Excellent video....and yes, Sir...never discount a bit of old skool maths and a pen and paper. Boom. 😎
Great video. Thanks for all the details. One thing I didn't find was the length of an aeroport
excellent video and explanation, could you suggest the steps to make a box for 2 p3 D4 punch subwoofers with the port in the middle of both?
This video was the most informative and easy to follow!!!, I assume that adding a filler, like polyfiller, or insulation helps when there isn't enough space for the optimal enclosure size, But is that the best way too solve less area!!??
Thank you Sir. Awesome video, audio, clarity, tutorial, lessons & non condescending explanations.
I've been designing & building enclosures for 3 decades & found your methods to be a great help.
I don't have winsd but do use boxpro. Look forward to your videos.
Great Video... Question, Does the length of the Aeroport not matter? I'm just started getting into the more technical side of car audio so I would like to know. Thank you for your time.
This is a really good tutorial, it is actually just great
thanks man!
No problem, it deserves more credit.
Awesome
Winisd sure helped me in my enclosures I built back in the day. Great video.
This video made my day. Thank you so much for the detailed info.
Would like more videos like this as nobody get good results. 👍 So much MORE need to know but good luck and thanks for videos
I appreciate the video. I’m new to subs and want to do it RIGHT. It’s nice to know a couple tricks but I’ve noticed sub placement, wire quality, OFC or CCA, the amp the radio the OHM the voice coil the box just so much to go into it. And something like even improving wire quality makes a noticeable difference, now I know if I do all of this right and well then these noticeable differences will turn into MASSIVE differences. I want rock hard deep bass that serves well in all areas but also I really want amazing quality, it feels so good to feel GOOD punchy bass rather than just punchy bass.
U have no idea how awesome this is! Thank u so much for ur knowledge u shared. Very appreciated. I just got a sundown SA 15. 👍
you won't be disappointed. killer subs
I'm an engineer with an interest in making a nearfield sub for my Home cinema. I found your video extremely useful for trhinking through the process and considering the shortfalls of the software. It's not easy to find a sub for infrasonic delivery that doesn't need to play loud... so I'll make one :).
I'll watch through more of your content.
Are there any differences that I need to take into account besides cabin gain if I'm using WinISD for my cabinet design?
Great video, but Im curious what kind of car would fit this size of a box..
1:35 is wrong. Those kind of subs are made for (as you mention in the video) high Sound Pressure Levels, and often have a Resonant frequency of about 35hz. There are better options like home theater subs to get low easily. The 10“ dayton reference woofer for example has a frs of 25hz, which will make it much easier to tune it lower.
And also, you don‘t need such high power levels (like 500 or 1000W). What‘s more important is the efficiency of the sub at 1W. From there on, you can multiply the power for a 3dB increase.
E.g.: 91dB/W/m -> 1W = 91dB, 2W = 94dB, 4W = 97dB…. 256W=115dB.
E.g. 84dB/W/m => 1W=84dB, 2W=87dB… 1024W=114dB
I remember when I was 16 just got my first car, a clapped out 94 Sentra. I was broke so didn't have money to just go buy a $80 box for 2 10's. My dad had alot of 1" thick plywood and I had did this same design and made it oversized not entirely knowing what I was doing at the time but it worked. I had 2 Rockford Fosgate P1's 10" woofers running this old ass kicker zr1000 amp my uncle gave me he had sitting in his attic for years was barely able to angle the box into the trunk, but man that system would hit lows so hard it felt like it was hard to breathe and would make your nose tickle. I had friends who had like a 15inch kicker or 2 twelves everything they got from the local audio shop and yea their systems were loud but more rattling than anything and my little 10s were just pushing alot more air and hitting deeper frequencies. Alot of people asked what I had and never even heard of Rockford Fosgate.
What about the length of a areo-port? How does that affect the tune???
I spent countless hours designing a box for sub frquencies. It peaked at 19hz. It was 16 cubic feet total. The port volume was just shy of the box volume. I built it for my buddies live sound rig. Sadly he never even tried it mixed in with the live rig. It wound up getting burned. But it was a fckn earth quake machine.
I need 8 or 10 inc car sub for home use. What brand do you recommend for home use?
Great informational video. I have a couple questions about using my Skar zvx 18s and which application is best used for a Mac
Do you have to type in subwoofer dimensions at all?
Can I use this sub design in my home theatre
Love the Disclaimer . Honesty = respect
I love this video its so informative. Could you make a detail video on how to use the Torres Tuning Calculator?
Outstanding video! I'm about to build my first box. Pyle gearx plg64. (6.5 "woofer") lol
heck yeah. my first subs, back in 1993 were PYLE and I was very happy with 'em. (PYLE Driver 10", back then they were made in the USA)
I usually start with Winisd and then I use Torres to get my box size and tuning. After that I go into SketchUp and model the box so I can factor in all the port bends.
where you can get torres
Want to build a closed box and im a newbie please could you help with the design?
Hi I saw this thing on the Internet call the Death Box. Do you think you could build one and put it to the test and see if this thing's any good
22 minutes , listening . well worth it Bro . Loved your idea n presentatioin ...... Well done .
Boy , that was
ffffffffffffeeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnntttttttttttttttttaaaaaaassssssssssssstttttttttiiiiiiiiiiiiicccccccccccccccc , Mate .
Hatttttttttttttttsssssss offfffffffffffffffff to you , I will just follow the last numbers .
Will it be the same for my 2008 sedan , please ...... ???
Just curious, I would like the port on the rear of the enclosure. How will this affect the build?
Would this bill work for a 12" quad stock audio pipe?
That's interesting about the larger ports higher tuning- I say lies guys on here with those octoports and 10-in round ports They are huge but they're banging out the lows
sub box pro does the "baffle extension" for you. you just have to cut the wood and make a 3rd port wall. play with the numbers and you will see. although you cant see it, its there. try adding .5 cubes to airspace and you will see depth wont change.
Great info. Going to take it and apply it to a single cab truck design. There has to be a way to get better base out of a behind the seat design box. Has any one every used tapered ports to increase velocity with out having the proper distance do to enclosure requirements?
One question. How you convert 28.65’’ on the measuring tape?
So what were the measurements to make this exact box? I have one 12” subwoofer
Wow! too detailed for layman like me...
I was kinda hoping just keying sub name and desired Low frequency and "vwalla" a box design emerges...
Eg Pioneer 12" TS-W3003D4 Champion Series PRO 2000W Car Subwoofer, and desiring 25Hz... what will be the box dimensions?
Will all this work the same for theater subs? I have box ideas for powered subs for home theater applications, I can listen to music anywhere but I really want people talking about the surround sound I design and of course with any good action movie or whatever you really want to FEEL like you are in it,,, you really want to hear thunder on tv and think that there's a storm outside only to realize it came from the room you are in, are there settings for the size room and things of that nature? And if not are there any that you or anyone can suggest?
How big should the speaker box should be if iam going to put 2 4" tweeters and 2 10" midrange speakers and 2 18" subwoofers
Great stuff love what you have provided. Curious though, in the beginning you were touting round ports. Then you seemed to favor baffle type
Tip, learn to use Sketchup. That'll be perfect for you to draw your boxes out ;-) Great video!
How did u work out the net internal volume
At some point I noticed that certain subs _sound_ deeper or shallower than others at the same note like say 30 or 40hz. They both clearly play the same note but there's either a deep or shallow undertone present. This is different to "getting down to 10hz". Anyone know what I'm talking about? I feel like this is an underrated characteristic that isn't noticed or talked about often enough and I'm trying to figure out how to build it
I have 2 ground zero gziw 300 - II it has 10mm xmax and 350w rms but i have a big box and im gonna try to add 2 extra walls inside the box to see if it helps with lower frequenzies
Good afternoon I have a question for you. Do you know what software program is used that I can put in the idea I have for Tops and subs and it would give me the best way to make speaker boxes
What would be the best box for a 10 in Rockford fosgate p3
Would this box be good for a Memphis M7 15” subwoofer
I have autostudio ref12d2 and winisd when I put all specs that I can find says ”Driver data fails intergity check” when I click it says that ”Considtency check on Qts, Qms, Qes” and I placed the parametrics that I found on those
And when I try to use that data it gives me staight vertical line
the best video on youtube awesome 🔥🔥🔥💪👏👏👏
the best tutorial on YT for a sub design, Can you do a video for a DIY Home Theater Sub box. Do you do project design? would like to get your contact details, if its possible?
So WinISD automatically corrects the offset length of right angle ports?
Is the volume with or without the port?
Can passive radiators work as well, for super low, as ports? If yes is there any source of info on that as the freekin thorough info you have here for ports? Thanks!
I have a jbl cs1204 12 inch drive. However, I cannot find the technical data mentioned in the video for this driver. Therefore I couldn't do anything. I want to make the best cabinet for this driver and use it in my home theater system. Can you help me?
Question, at 19:40 when you had to make the adjustment on your box and your port didn't line up with the front of the box... when you added the 1.35 or whatever it was, couldn't you just remove that 1.35 from the end of the 3rd interior port wall on the inside? Or would that change the tuning as well considering that'd be adding space inside?
The real deal tell all video. Greatt greatt video. Keep up the good work Chriso.
Very informative. Thank you
I built a 13 cube box 4th order bandpass for one pro fosgate 12
It was insane you could literally vibrate items off the counter at the local gas station
My friends would come out the store and say the cashier is confused and thinks it's an earthquake 😂
Dosent changing the height and width of the box at that point alter the tuning because its based on the volume or does the box software keep everything where its needed to prevent the response from changing?
Do you have any videos focusing on band pass box builds fourth or six order?
How many HZ soo I can get that deep low clean bass I have 2 L7 Q class with 300A Alternator Big 3 and running 1/0 kicker OFC wire with 2 XS Power D4800 batteries and a Cxa1800.1
🔴 is there a port air velocity that is too low, for example 10 m/s?
I got wonderful sound from two recycled 8" Andrew Jones subwoofers, push pull, in a sealed box I made with plenty of stuffed animal fluff inside, and powered by two cheap chinese class D subwoofer amps.
Great vid on box building!
Really great box design video!
Just wish I've seen it 3days ago before closing up my box.
Let me know if you are open to helping me out with my build?
Any chance you design boxes for people? I tried following along and trying to get good numbers for a JL 12TW3-D8 but I'm confused as all hell lol
So if I have 4 skar svr 12s how many cubes would be good to tune to 20hz n port area
Any feelings on kerfed ports? I've heard your port starts at point of desired port area... And do flare the inside opening? Subs closer as possible to each other or further apart as possible or no difference. If port ends half way thru do you add another 90° to aim towards the baffle? My current single 18 is tuned to 28htz it slams on bass boosted music but totally flops in higher notes and starts clipping very soon.
3:44 QUESTION: Is 1.33x the manufacturer recommended net volume size of the min, mid, or max number they provide? Meaning, my 15" Fi Neo 4.11 is recommend I use 3ft³-5ft³ per sub. So do I multiply 1.33 by 3, 4, or 5?
It's important to know I will be clamping a little more than their rated power of 4500 (rated 4500 but Fi says up to 7500 so I have each sub connected to it's own Taramps Bass 8K wired down to 0.7 ohm = 10,000 RMS Watts per sub but again, I expect to clamp only 5k each). Sub's Fs is 33.6Hz so I chose 33.6Hz as my box tuning with port area of 16in² per cubic foot of net volume as recommended.
For more info and videos, see my RUclips channel for build updates which starting June 2021 will be with my new larger custom enclosure of 8.5ft³ net (4.25 per sub) whereas now (May 2021) they are in a "labyrinth enclosure" (2 individual long winding ports) and only 2.75ft³ each sub net volume and port area half of what is required (8in² vs 16in²) which both (port area AND net volume) are greatly undersized.
I have clamped 7000 each. 155.5 dB on my 2 15s no wall as seen on my RUclips channel (access by clicking on my YT photo)
I've asked before but nvr got a response I have 4 skar svr12s so is 10.5 cubes good and tuned to 20hz with a port area of 11cubes per cubic ft is that ok or does port area got to be lower
Great video. Abridged text version: Increase the size of your box approx 1.5 times the mfg suggested size and lower port tuning. Doing so will kill 3-5db of total output so plan on doubling power, adding another woofer or both to get the output back. The engineering acronym never changes. TANSTAAFL There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch. These days power is ridiculously cheap so power up and let em slap!
Just an FYI, modeling excursion you can go to the filters tab, click add go to high pass you can use a Butterworth or a link which Riley and then put in your desired crossover frequency for an infrasonic filter and click add, it will show you the adjusted cone excursion. You could also see your sound pressure loss by clicking back to transfer function magnitude. As well under filters you can add a linkwitz transform by setting the f0 to where transfer function begins in your vehicle, and setting the second f0 number to lowest frequency you want to model down to. Then click add.
With the cone excursion, I’m having problems where I’ve done it for 2 different subs and boxes and I’m getting like 200mm😂 but I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, one of them was even building it to exactly what the manufacturer says? And the power is also to what the manufacturer says which was 1500w rms, please help, it’s my first time using winisd😬😫
Ok so questions if I have a dvc 4 wired in parallel which drops too 2ohms and 2 of them which drops too 1ohm and 1200 watt amp I'm a building a box for a 2ohm sub 600rms or is 1 at 600 or 1 at 1200 or maybe I'm over thinking it
Very good! Congratulations!