Once or twice a year I find a channel that gives me the old youtube excitement I used to get finding all the awesome content when I was new to the platform. It's rare anymore but still very exciting to find an awesome channel. I'm so happy to find your channel. You've got great content and seemingly a ton of knowledge. Thank you for your videos and channel.
As a woofer, i disagree sir! We find your regular speaking voices too loud as it is - we do not want to be associated with extremely loud bass! We'd rather sniff your bottom :3 we know what you had for breakfast the past week...
Great video! The bottom line is, ( I don't care if your goal is SPL or sound quality ) every single install is unique. Therefore there are no magic tricks. You have to decide what your goal really is, and design and build the install based on all of your unique variables. Every single install is a series of compromises bar none.
Bandpass have always been my favorite. I never knew how to design one correctly but when I found an installer/builder who did know what they were doing it always turned out great. Nice to see someone in the modern scene trying to eliminate misnomers about bandpass. Now if I could find someone to design me a bandpass for the 15" B2 X2SIX I just picked up that would be amazing!!!
This is one of the best explanation on RUclips IMO. Not only on this topic but generally on acoustic laws and rules in box building and designs. So right to the point with such a control to stay on the topic yet not to miss any critical point in explaining the reasons why. Great video. Its funny how some people talk about bandpass designs as a new fashion thing around the block. It is actually because of those cheap and many bad sounding bandpass boxes with plexiglass panels and bunch of blinking led lights. They are very attractive when you listen to them with your eyes and with LED technology these days those enclosures are coming back to the spotlight again. Bose made them popular with their Acoustimass series in late 80's and early 90's (dual reflex boxes) and they were a big commercial hit at the time. With those cubes the whole system sounded much more powerful then they looked. They had a jaw dropping effect on home listeners and since then satellite/subwoofer systems became very popular. They got a very high approval from female members of the household and we all know they have a great influence on the choices when bringing something in the house. I know all that as those Acoustimass were my first home system with the sub. And everyone who came to my home were very impressed. Until I bought a 15" Velodyne Digital series sub. Then I realised how Acoustimass box sharply drops in low frequency. So loudness cannot fix the lack of bandwidth when you can compare the systems side by side. If you dont hear certain frequencies you will never know they are there (in the source) until you hear them on the system they can reproduce them. And on that topic how some designers put the sub inverted so they can smell the burning coil on the driver during the SPL competition. I must admit Bose found a very elegant solution to protect those 2 small 5-1/4" drivers in their Acoustimass boxes. They put in line a light bulb with a specific resistance with each driver so when the driver receive more than rated power it would start glowing at that point turning that extra power into the light (glowing filament in incandescent bulb). And if you keep pushing you will burn the bulb instead of the driver. Very clever but scary when you dont know this and you see the glowing light coming out of the port when you overload the box. Thanks again for this great video. Instant subscriber.
Thank you very much for this info. I built a few small band pass enclosures for my truck using help from your video and made alterations to practice these changes in tuning. I am now comfortable with this type of enclosure and building a steel framed 1.5 to 1 ratio enclosure for six 15’s to go in the bed of my truck. Thank you for helping me with this project!
Waking up late on the first Saturday morning I've had off in a good long while, I find this video, buried deep within the typical tripe of RUclips's "recommended" wall. Liked, subbed, and I'll be spending the rest of my morning pouring through your channel! Awesome stuff! So refreshing to see some real technical talk actually based in reality. :D
I have a probend competition bandpass with 2 12” kickers and a Rockford fosgate amp, the plexiglass is about 1/4” inch thick and nearly covers up the whole box, perfect enough for me and sounds amazing paired with my aftermarket speakers
I'm still using an old 4th order bandpass made by Q Logic, loaded with two 10" Polk poly mica subs and it responds really well to every bass frequency I throw at it. The box, near as I can tell it's tuned to about 70hz. Driving those Polk Audio subs with my old liquid cooled Bazooka BA1300 that I bought at the same time back in the mid 90's if memory serves. Old school still banging it out :)
Hey a bandpass series, awesome! I remember when I first started seeing the JL boxes at shops back in the day. Those were good sounding boxes! I picked up a box at a bazaar and put my Soundstream USA’s in it. That’s when I realized there’s more to it than meets the eye lol. Awesome video!
I remade my own bandpass subwoofer out of a jamo bandpass sub, I GOT A NEW SUB DRIVER, NEW PORT, Tuned crossover for the lows. I will upload a video of it. Plus you got a new subscriber here. 😀😆😃
I bought a Bandpass system back in the 90's, because I wanted to hear the bass on my reggae music at low levels, here it is 2021 and my JVC Bandpass system is still pumping out quality bass at low levels just like I like it.
Hey that's me at 2:28! That's some old pictures and videos from an event in 2018. Car is completely different now! It was a flat ported wall then and is well on its way to becoming a 4th order.
Yeah I popped into the show just to see what was going on When I saw you roll the car off the trailer I knew that I was looking at the loudest car at the show! I grabbed some footage of your run. If you would like the entire clip shoot me an email and I'll send it to you! DIYaudioguy@gmail.com
My first bandpass box was a 2x12 with plexiglass front from best buy. Put 2x12" soney xplode subs and a 900 watt xplode mono block sub amp. It hit so hard that I couldn't hear my other speakers. So I added component speakers front and rear from crutchfield powered by a clarion 4 channel amp. By the time I was done, my truck was a small extended cab Toyota pickup, I couldn't see out of any of my mirrors. Lol sounded great though. Went to the drive-in and everyone hated me lol
I love the fact at 9 minutes and 25 seconds you mentioned the smell of coils. When you're smelling your coils that means that the show is about over. Time to choose push it and have to recone your s*** or turn it down and take your score.
The best sounding band-pass I heard used a dayton dcs255 classic 10" really similar to a jbl gto 10". They are xmax limited so they struggle below 35 hz but they have some of the lowest group delay you can find in a band-pass without giving up efficiency. I ended up using it in a 6th order in my daily driver and sacrificing a tiny amount of sound quality for the ability to play some decaf when I feel like it. Another cool thing is they still play high enough that if you are on a tight budget you don't have to upgrade your mids and highs, the classic 10" can play mid-bass even in a band-pass.
I remember hearing an Alumapro BP series 8" bandpass box back in the day that sounded like 2 12's. Was only like 1 cubic foot but that batboy dumped. I've been keeping an eye out for one ever since.
Adding more shit doesn't make it better a well designed system doesn't need all that crap NO resistors that's just a copout that you couldn't take the time to design test and tweak your crossover use an L pad if necessary but just keep your Db's very close & you probably won't need them LESS IS More
I think Bose owns the patent for 6th order bp boxes, that is why many companies call them something else. I don't know if the patent has expired, but Bose used to be aggressive about stopping non-licensed use of this enclosure type.
Thank you for explaining it so well. I've built various enclosures and I always look at the woofer's characteristics to see what type of box is best for that specific woofer. If possible, I prefer to start with measuring the speaker's Theile Small parameters and not using the manufacturer's specs, especially when designing complex bandpass boxes. It's fun to experiment though.
Thanks for these videos, been trying to understand bandpass and porting for years but there is so little quality content out there, these videos are easy to understand
I was always a vented box guy, and after watching this, I still am 😁 I listen to a lot of types music, i need that wide, flat response curve a vented box provides.
Good explanation. It still gets deeper which has caused many a grief over the years plus contributed to the bad rap of bandpass. Active filtering and vehicle acoustics should be accounted for in design to extract the most performance while keeping the design practical as well. Many exclude those two things in the design process, but it is very detrimental to the result.
Regardless of ratio or driver used for a 4th order bp, the vented side will always be smaller than the sealed side in proper design if looking for the best freq range for sq builds. If the driver is well suited for 4th order, dog ears can be avoided. If the center is @ 0db, then eq's the peaks down will flatten and maintain a more natural sound than trying to boost the lower output range. Cut is always better than boost.
Back in 1987 a friend and me built a box out of 3/4" plywood that barely fit in the trunk of my 78 Buick regal from side to side, we put four 12" woofers side by side and we had no port holes it was air tight and I drove it with a Kenwood 920 amp and it thumped like crazy.
This is a really good primer for Bandpass enclosures. I always learn (or re-learn as the case may be) some good stuff from watching your videos. I have created exactly one bandpass subwoofer enclosure in my lifetime... I do feel they can be more difficult to work with, but with your video and a basic working knowledge of WinISD, I think most folks would be able to handle designing one with decent performance, given the driver was suited for it. Given cabin gain in automotive environments, a well-designed bandpass can really be a decent option at times. I love how you present a lot of knowledge clearly, and quickly. The side-by-side with a vented box FR response is a great way to explain what's going on with changes in the HF and LF box sizes. Great video! Yeah, I'm a bit late to this party. :)
4:20 the 3:1 ratio.. Was born for the ease of porting if you are porting the larger chamber in which a larger diameter port can be used as a length isn't a problem.. I prefer to port the smaller enclosure.. Which makes it harder to get a good port. But I also vent the magnet side. Ratio and Q is Way better using the larger side as the FC tuning with the port Q meeting it. Back in the 90s I got a hold of the Pioneer Bass book installers guide. It showed a group of modelled enclosures. I learned the EBP concept and matching final QTC and resonance
@@DIYAudioGuy I learned how T&S changed things with those enclosure graphs and could build and did build many. Lots of calming people down from more woofers showing them one QTC final .707 target would bump better than 2 in the same area at .9
I have been doing some research on the more exotic bandpass enclosures. There is surprisingly little technical information on them available to the pubic. As soon as I feel like I understand them well enough to explain them I will make a video.
@@DIYAudioGuy awesome, I can’t wait. I been building car audio since the 90’s. Back in 2000 I built a type of band pass for a friend. He had a pickup truck with a topper, so I built a sealed box for 2 15’s firing backwards towards the rear of the truck and it fired into a shell that blew through the rear window. We removed the whole back window. The subs were in a 3 cube each and I would say the chambered was a total of 7 cubes. It didn’t actually have a true port. The vent was the size of the rear window. It played every note from 25HZ to 70 relatively clean and it metered about 150db’s. That was about the only type of bandpass box I’ve ever built.
You just made the best video on 4th bandpass, not sure that is a huge complement or a slam on the complete lack of info! All SB aside you did good job! no great, no good. If you watch American Dad you will get that..
I'm glad you made the qualifiers that you did. Back in the 80's I tried every possible box design in numerous variations. They all stink. Give me 4 Lab-12s in a 4 cu.ft. SEALED BOX. It can't be touched for fidelity, and has equal Output with a Ported Box. (but needs twice the power).
Great video! I love bandpass! Back in 2004 I had a 01 ford Taurus with two 12 inch pioneer impp TSW305Dvc subs in a 1:1 bandpass I built myself. Front&back chambers was 0.9cuft and I use pvc pipe for the port which was 3" x 5" each if I remember right. It's was Amazing! Had that longthrow bass and I used an audio control epicenter too. Sounded Beautiful inside and outside. People would ask me, "how you get your bass to be so deep and low"? Bass is just air and you want to move alot of it. Your sub is an acoustic air pump! So Now I have a jeep grand cherokee with a kicker zx2500.1 and a Soundqubed 15" HDX3 in a ported enclosure. It's beats stupid hard but bandpass have this certain sound that I'm addicted too. I been trying to order another one and build a 4th order wall but their sold out so I'm going to wall it with two Dayton Audio ultimax 18s. I have a 4th program on my PC that I already punch the numbers in and the results are impressive, better than any sub I seen probably because their fs is 19hz. Their louder and more efficient on lows. I can't wait to buy them!
@@DIYAudioGuy yes man especially the SPL subs they once made. It's like they said forget car audio subwoofers! They were made in Mexico at first. Mexico was making them right because I could give them 2x or 3x the power and they would last but then they move everything to China and it all went down hill from there IMO. The spider would rip and cone would rip. They had the best infinite baffle subs period! Man I miss those days
9:17 I thought it should be pointed out that when the woofer is "Inverted" the voice coil also tends to cool better, especially over longer periods of play, because fresh outside air can enter the open chamber and is exchanged with heated air whereas if the voice coil vent (typically through the rear of the magnet structure) is installed into the sealed chamber the inner air continues to heat and becomes a less efficient cooling system.
You the real mvp! So glad there's someone explaining the science in a way we all get! Feeling alot more confident about starting an SQ build now. Was always dubious since most info tailors to SPL.
Hey thanks! Any style of box can be a sound quality box, sound quality gets more complicated as the box gets more complicated. Another thing to keep in mind, I did not talk about it in the video, is group delay. Basically there's going to be a lag between when the signal gets to your subwoofer and when the port produces music. Most of the time this is just the tiniest fraction of a second. But if the group delay gets too big you're going to get a muddy sound. I need to do some research on that and make a video because I'm not quite sure where that threshold is.
@@DIYAudioGuy If you want to hit a wider range of frequency would a bandpass be the best idea then? My goal was to have the sub be able to hit all the low end rather than peaking like my old ported enclosure. Dang even spreading knowledge in the comments good on you! Sounds like a fascinating video can't wait for that!
@@mattsteel7220 My preference is to go with a ported enclosure and tune it low. You'll give up SPL but you'll get more low frequency extension. That's just kind of the trade off.
It's not just about the loudest possible sound, but also the right and good sound is important! Bandpass subwoofer box for me have a problem, all the sound comes out of some plastic pipe and ALWAYS makes noise. You can reduce this but you can never get rid of it 100% What's the point of a lot of bass if it's not nice to listen to??
My JL Audio prefab band pass box from 1995 sounds amazing and is super loud. I wouldn’t have it any other way. The plexy glass doesn’t affect sound whatsoever
Man Justin, you made my day with this one. So if there is a sub, that has a sealed and ported application from manufacturer, can this be utilized as a reference? Or even worked in conjunction with each other? I know this will be based and the optimal power rating and not so much a high power dumping, which as you stated will require a smaller enclosure to control the sub.
I really think the best way to approach a bandpass is to just model it in something like WINISD or bass box pro. They are just too complicated to do it any other way.
I personally have found a relatively small sealed side with about a 1/1.35 ratio is most musical. Tuned to 56 hertz, it’s quite flat throughout the response from about 26-56. Not best for SPL or super lows, but sounds musical, and still gets loud.
Thank you. Ports are a coupler. If you stick paper in a port the paper doesn't blow out. It gets stuck and moves back and forth. Because its a cone. Ported enclosures experience higher internal pressures than sealed enclosures
Who remembers the Thunderbox that MTX Audio had back in like the late 90s early 2000s?! Great box for 250-600 watts, very musical. I remember those Pyle bandpasses haha. Thanks for the video, looking into designing a 4th order for 4 8's, trying to find good information on how to model it. Might need to pick up that book you mentioned.
@@DIYAudioGuy I've got some novice experience with box modeling with WinISD supported by a few other good, free tools. The part that I still have trouble comprehending on 4th order and up is how to properly calculate your air space, like for instance what should ported side vs sealed side start at for each sub. I've modeled so far for 4 Sundown Xv3's, 3 cubes ported and .5 cube sealed @ 45hz gave me a good frequency spread but at like -5db lol. Make the sealed side 1 cube and it peaks hard at 45hz and drops off quickly on Fl/Fh. Still learning and still have a long way to go just hate to spend the $ on something I model and then the sub doesn't like it, too small, too big etc.
My cousin had one with a Walmart impp pioneer 12 in it on 200 to 300 watts and it was as loud as my Rockford fosgate 10in hx2 in a ported box on 800 watts. That thunderbox sounds awesome. I copied it later with a slot port on the portside with a premier 12 that slammed in the back of my safari van.
First video I've seen from this channel, and it was awesome, thanks! Subscribed! The other thing about bandpass boxes to look out for, with respect to sound quality, is group delay.
If you want a good bandpass enclosure that already has a subwoofer, Toby speakers make a great one. Goes down to the 20's hertz and is pretty linear throught the band with. They don't use that much power and have a number of different size enclosure. Located in Halton Tx
I once built a 4th order band pass as recommended by Kicker for the two 12” comp series. After one week, I made a ported box and it sounded 10X better.
@@DIYAudioGuy I once scoffed at passive radiators in the 80’s as “fake speakers”, rather than frequency extenders, like ports. I’m now considering the “minimum order” of some Tang Band subwoofer modules for a project, and doing something like early Bose array speakers.
@@dalesmth1 For sure, passive radiators have their uses. They are great for when you're trying to make a small enclosure that otherwise would need a giant port.
20 years ago I build my own.... the BASS transform in something unallocated but you can feel. May be the best in quality I have heard in a system 2.1 for 3X50w RMS. After one years I selled for 250$. The box subwoofer, on amps system inside, still alive.
I have a old Boston Acoustics PV400 true bandpass home theatre subwoofer. The enclosure is in the shape of a skyscraper, 10" x10" footprint and 20" tall and uses a little 7" woofer. Completely sealed with two down firing ports (it sits on little 1" legs) . One of the most unique little subs I have ever seen and for a small sub it cracks really hard. It sounds far better than it should. Awesome little score. Actually have two of them.
Purchase a band pass box in the 90's with two 10's! Years later I forget the brand but it was a medium brand in its time like pyramid I think but anyhow it seemed to have a constand gun to it! Honestly I only purchased sealed boxes after that! Would like to try a ported box next system I build! Looking into purchasing 2 of the down for sound jp 23 amps and two subs and well that's as far as I've gotten to so far but back in the day I ran a cadence electronic crossover with a 7 volt line driver and it made a world of difference cause older head units only put out like 2 volts out the RCA's but now I think the average is close to 5 volt but now they have larger line drivers so though people seem to have forgotten them in going to use one! One amp per sub wired down to either 1 ohm or .5 we'll see!
Many pa. speakers for professional concert use struggle to go deeper than 30hz 40hz. A speaker that does not play deeper than 50hz - 40hz is not good enough if you ask me. What's the point of a big heavy box if it doesn't go deeper? I have owned professional PA. bandpass subwoofer 6ht order that struggled with deep frequencies that didn't sound good. It did not use plastic pipes, it was one box with 18 inches and at least a 200 - 300 liter box.
I tuned a 8th order to the opposite of what you showed at the end of the video at 20 hz, and it actually made a very good theatre box it shakes the paintings on my wall with a single shitty 8
I’ve done 4:1 ratio bandpassed with huge range . Ratio can be less important with a well designed bandpass . I had the gain of the extra ported volume but kept the range . I could play 18-55 hz . I see some myths being re enforced in this video that aren’t true as well . There is a lot of physical changes that can be made in the design to combat that “peakyness “ that a lot of people think higher ratio enclosures can give you .
Very helpful info. One thing I question though is the last statement you made about the asymmetrical ripple sounding bad. However it seems to me that if you tune it such the the upper ripple is greater and the lower ripple is flattened it could provide excellent results if the upper ripple is well above the crossover frequency.
Back in the day, I had a bandpass with 2 10's in it that were low power and I was really surprised at how loud and well it sounded. I've been debating on building one lately for one of the cheaper 300w 10's from china and an equivalent small cheap amp
@@DIYAudioGuy ok. Yeah, we are talking the year 2000, or early 2001. I had the chance to remember and the subs were two 10" kenwood tornado, single voice coil. I think they were rated around 300w peak. The cones faced each other behind plexiglass and the rear was separated and ported. I can't remember the brand of amp, but I think it was 500 watts. That was my first setup. For what it was, I was impressed. After watching a video, I'm realizing that I might have had better performance if I wired them out of phase and makede it isobaric
We have a legendary local shop called Toby Speakers. He only builds bandpass enclosures for vehicles using Dayton subwoofers. I have a dual 10” and a 3-12” enclosures made by him. The dual 10 is one of his production boxes called the Hitman. My 3-12s enclosure is a one off he did for me. And let me tell you, they get down
That's awesome! It is smart to go with a builder that has experience making these work, they are tricky. Is he using the Ultimax drivers? The Datyon HO did not model well in a 4th order.
The ski hole is a friggin hidden gem in swear. I had two b2 HN12 subs in 5 cubes with a 6" aero through the ski hole in my old suby and the range was nutty !! Can't even come close to it after 5 different setups in my new rav4 😭 so lame
Nice! We'll put sir. The mythicals also say if the subs better suited for sealed box then it should play well in 4th order BP As a sub better suited for ported box plays good in a 6th order or something like that. Damn good video on 4th order bandpass!
Whoaaaaaa man this is knowledge I got two toro force eight inch 800 rms and for some reason my speakers be making popping sound when I crank it up I do believe box is the issue
Does it sound like an electrical pop (like turn-on and turn-off pop) or is it more physical -- like the voice coil former hitting the back plate? If it is the former then a new box will not help. If it is the latter then just turn it down. Either way the sub is damaged. I would recommend a different brand (amzn.to/3vrKQHS).
When I was younger I was big into subs and stereos. One of my friends decided to make a homemade band pass box which ended up being huge 4ft cube give or take and I never saw inside but this thing he built and added some random add on amp ended up being the most insanely loud incredible source of bass I’ve still to this day ever come across this was when I was like 15-16 he was 13-14 years old(I’m not 43 and he passed away a few years ago) he used it as a surround sound sub. Not sure how he did it but I’ve still never seen one that could even come close to matching it. I’m thinking he must’ve just guessed something correctly because it was unbelievable
Thanks for all the information. I have watched numerous videos by you and there is a ton of useful information. I don't fully understand the frequency lingo, but I'm always trying to learn something new, I built my first subwoofer box in 2012, and learned about the ports and the size of the box is a big part. I somehow figured out that a bandpass(I cant remember what order) was probably the loudest (if built/tuned correctly). Anyway I think I will be building one this year, since I have come across some subs and and amp. Appreciate the work you do, I subscribed.
Diy guy. Me with the Harley trike with sub in trunk. Wondering if this selfpowered sub. The 8” active and 8” passive made by Exoxgear. Comes with 500 watt amp. I have cut a 7-1/4” hole in lid. Perhaps a passive radiator could go here. I could also put a port in the rear wall. So wonder - if the radiator was used exclusively. Would it transfer the sound inside the trike trunk. The trunk measures 2’-6” wide X 12” tall by 10” deep. This is just a temp solution. Could either go 2 ways 1) put 8” subwoofer in lid, and put port into rear wall. 2) keep lid solid, put sub into rear wall and fire into area below seating area.
My friend... You are using a low Qts 10" driver optimized for ported enclosures when modeling a 4th order BP. If you had used a 6th order BP for the RSS265, you'd get better results.
First time watching this channel. Bro, you look exactly like the lead at my shop that works on 1st shift. Even your mannerisms too. The irony is he's a huge audiophile too. 😂
Very interesting and informative content! I just purchased a Dayton Audio 12” HO DVC sub. I’m trying to understand box designs. What box design would you suggest for the best SQ? I have a space 15”W x 32”L x 15”H. My 15”W is fixed but the other dimensions are flexible. This will be placed between my seats in my second row? Thank You in advance for your insight!
Your best bet is to download WINisd and model it. If you don't want to deal with WINisd I offer box design services. Another option is to reach out to parts express' tech support. They are very helpful.
I just got the TX-WX1210AH and it hits hard. Sure you can buy separate components that will beat this but for convenience to take out in 5 seconds and put back in and have some serious hard hitting bass ........well there really is nothing so convenient.
Great explanation. Thanks. I would be interested in understanding group delay and what is relationship (if any) of seconds delay (as shown in winisd) and pecieved sound quality.
in the analog filter world (or digital for that matter) , group delay is essentially how smooth the phase changes with frequency and the 'slower or smoother' the phase changes, the less distortion that wave shape has. Filters in radios often have added sections to smooth these changes to make it easier to recover the waveshape when demodulating the signal.
@DJ WRAITH just get one comp sub and you'll be happy. its simple and cheap. Box specs are never perfect, most important thing you have to do is tune by ear. My first system was like 400 bucks installed, it lasted me like 8-9 years and it slammed until i fried the amp then the sub. Gonna rebuild the sub at some point hopefully.
This man is telling 100% truth. I was building bandpass boxs, before anyone knew what they were. I fiscovered the design, by screwing around with different project designs, in my garage a few weeks, when I and a few friends were young. Big into, audio fabrication, we were searching for that peak on low bass. The idea came to me, exactly how he explained it, how the sub pushes, and pulls the air through the ports, making the ports, a subwoofer cones practically. Do not buy a bandpass box from a marketplace, instead, find an old school builder, that does it from passion. They will most definitely build you the 1 of a kind Bandpass, your looking for
I remember back in the '90s when band pass and isoberic for all the rage. People had to get creative to get loud because amplifier power was so expensive.These days we mostly see bandpass in big SPL builds.
Typically we just go with standard polarity, positive from the amp to the positive on the speaker, negative on the amp to the negative on the speaker. Sometimes it doesn't sound good because of the placement and position of the subs or interactions around the crossover point and it's useful to flip the polarity or adjust the phase.
What also matters a lot is the volume of your car. I took one boxed sub over three cars (small hatch/medium hatch/estate) and the perceived power diminished massively.
Question…. If you have a woofer that works in a sealed or vented enclosure… can you design the sealed side of the band pass box based on the sealed specs for the woofer and the vented side based on the vented specs? As a starting point/ ballpark?
The best bandpass box I've ever had is called toby speakers/box by mr toby, what a legend. With only one single 10" sheriff 200w speaker and a 160w amp sonds like 2 12" 2000w system
@@BenaresDarkness dude you don't have an idea, they got better. People think I have a $2000+ system lol. If im telling you there the best they just are.
I May be wrong but after watching a couple times. It sounds to me a 4th order gives you the benefit of a louder than ported box but with the smooth roll off of a sealed box.. I think right? I might be overthinking it but idk I’m just curious how it would sound.
People need to know what the "theile" or small parameters of a sub means, that way they can use those numbers to dictate what type of enclosure they want to use. Alot of people dont know that certain subs are 4th order friendly,so imo, you should also cover the bases on the small parameters. If you have any luck explaining it in a simple , yet non boring way , i commend you lol.
@@mescko not really, the abarth is a fun little car, i was attempting to create humor. The hard part about that is , you can type something that most people can chuckle at,but there will always be a few people that dont get it.
Had a dual audio band pass box the one that had two subs in one chamber with the big glass and 4 ports on top with two 12 inch kenwood blue waves mounted to see the magnets on a 1800 watt kenwood amp that slammed
Idk how I’ve never found your videos before. The way you explain stuff and relate it to real world is awesome! Going to search your videos but I hope you have something on designing regular ported or sealed boxes based off of sub/amp specs!
For more info on how to use WINISD check out this video right here:. ruclips.net/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/видео.html
Do u have any videos on a 6th order
@@iantankersley9617 not yet, a lot of people are asking about it so I need to do some research so I can make a good video.
Any chance u wanna build boxes to sell
@@DaReallestDerrty eventually, yes. The big obstacle is shipping.
Can we make a 6th order passive radiator enclosure ? 8th ?
Once or twice a year I find a channel that gives me the old youtube excitement I used to get finding all the awesome content when I was new to the platform. It's rare anymore but still very exciting to find an awesome channel. I'm so happy to find your channel. You've got great content and seemingly a ton of knowledge. Thank you for your videos and channel.
You are to kind!
The dog ear analogy is perfect because woofers. 🐶
🤣
jajaj
Duhhh
As a woofer, i disagree sir! We find your regular speaking voices too loud as it is - we do not want to be associated with extremely loud bass! We'd rather sniff your bottom :3 we know what you had for breakfast the past week...
@DJ WRAITH It's just a matter of building the right box for the right woofer, or putting the right woofer in the right box.
Great video! The bottom line is, ( I don't care if your goal is SPL or sound quality ) every single install is unique. Therefore there are no magic tricks. You have to decide what your goal really is, and design and build the install based on all of your unique variables. Every single install is a series of compromises bar none.
Exactly
Bandpass have always been my favorite. I never knew how to design one correctly but when I found an installer/builder who did know what they were doing it always turned out great. Nice to see someone in the modern scene trying to eliminate misnomers about bandpass. Now if I could find someone to design me a bandpass for the 15" B2 X2SIX I just picked up that would be amazing!!!
I can build your box for you and build it right. Oh. Also i wont rip you off either. You're welcome to email me if you'd like.
boostcati@gmail.com
Yea, they are tricky!
This is one of the best explanation on RUclips IMO. Not only on this topic but generally on acoustic laws and rules in box building and designs. So right to the point with such a control to stay on the topic yet not to miss any critical point in explaining the reasons why. Great video.
Its funny how some people talk about bandpass designs as a new fashion thing around the block. It is actually because of those cheap and many bad sounding bandpass boxes with plexiglass panels and bunch of blinking led lights. They are very attractive when you listen to them with your eyes and with LED technology these days those enclosures are coming back to the spotlight again. Bose made them popular with their Acoustimass series in late 80's and early 90's (dual reflex boxes) and they were a big commercial hit at the time. With those cubes the whole system sounded much more powerful then they looked. They had a jaw dropping effect on home listeners and since then satellite/subwoofer systems became very popular. They got a very high approval from female members of the household and we all know they have a great influence on the choices when bringing something in the house. I know all that as those Acoustimass were my first home system with the sub. And everyone who came to my home were very impressed. Until I bought a 15" Velodyne Digital series sub. Then I realised how Acoustimass box sharply drops in low frequency. So loudness cannot fix the lack of bandwidth when you can compare the systems side by side. If you dont hear certain frequencies you will never know they are there (in the source) until you hear them on the system they can reproduce them.
And on that topic how some designers put the sub inverted so they can smell the burning coil on the driver during the SPL competition. I must admit Bose found a very elegant solution to protect those 2 small 5-1/4" drivers in their Acoustimass boxes. They put in line a light bulb with a specific resistance with each driver so when the driver receive more than rated power it would start glowing at that point turning that extra power into the light (glowing filament in incandescent bulb). And if you keep pushing you will burn the bulb instead of the driver. Very clever but scary when you dont know this and you see the glowing light coming out of the port when you overload the box.
Thanks again for this great video. Instant subscriber.
Thanks for commenting!
This, by far, the best explanation of bandpass enclosures I've ever seen/heard
Thanks!
Thank you very much for this info. I built a few small band pass enclosures for my truck using help from your video and made alterations to practice these changes in tuning. I am now comfortable with this type of enclosure and building a steel framed 1.5 to 1 ratio enclosure for six 15’s to go in the bed of my truck. Thank you for helping me with this project!
Glad it helped
You may not have won the Sound Advise boom box build but your the guy I'd want to design my subwoofer box. Nice video
I appreciate that, but I can assure you the other two guys would do a fantastic job.
My favorite kind of subwoofer box!. Been rocking those since '94. I always used the fully carpeted ones back in the day.
I think they are cool.
Finally a channel with facts instead of 'buy my product' . Thank you from a new subscriber.
Thanks for the sub!
Waking up late on the first Saturday morning I've had off in a good long while, I find this video, buried deep within the typical tripe of RUclips's "recommended" wall. Liked, subbed, and I'll be spending the rest of my morning pouring through your channel! Awesome stuff! So refreshing to see some real technical talk actually based in reality. :D
Welcome to the adventure!
I think this is recorded with a band pass
Wow by far you are the only one that gets in deep covers it all and keeps giving info. Please don't stop making videos.
Thanks!
I have a probend competition bandpass with 2 12” kickers and a Rockford fosgate amp, the plexiglass is about 1/4” inch thick and nearly covers up the whole box, perfect enough for me and sounds amazing paired with my aftermarket speakers
I'm still using an old 4th order bandpass made by Q Logic, loaded with two 10" Polk poly mica subs and it responds really well to every bass frequency I throw at it. The box, near as I can tell it's tuned to about 70hz. Driving those Polk Audio subs with my old liquid cooled Bazooka BA1300 that I bought at the same time back in the mid 90's if memory serves. Old school still banging it out :)
Hey a bandpass series, awesome! I remember when I first started seeing the JL boxes at shops back in the day. Those were good sounding boxes! I picked up a box at a bazaar and put my Soundstream USA’s in it. That’s when I realized there’s more to it than meets the eye lol. Awesome video!
JL Audio knows what they're doing. That's why they can command such a high price.
I remade my own bandpass subwoofer out of a jamo bandpass sub, I GOT A NEW SUB DRIVER, NEW PORT, Tuned crossover for the lows. I will upload a video of it. Plus you got a new subscriber here. 😀😆😃
First video here, I thought I heard “ THIS, is a big ass subwoofer”
All right all right my kinda channel. Subscribed.
I bought a Bandpass system back in the 90's, because I wanted to hear the bass on my reggae music at low levels, here it is 2021 and my JVC Bandpass system is still pumping out quality bass at low levels just like I like it.
If they are built right they can be amazing.
Hey that's me at 2:28! That's some old pictures and videos from an event in 2018. Car is completely different now! It was a flat ported wall then and is well on its way to becoming a 4th order.
Yeah I popped into the show just to see what was going on When I saw you roll the car off the trailer I knew that I was looking at the loudest car at the show! I grabbed some footage of your run. If you would like the entire clip shoot me an email and I'll send it to you! DIYaudioguy@gmail.com
My first bandpass box was a 2x12 with plexiglass front from best buy. Put 2x12" soney xplode subs and a 900 watt xplode mono block sub amp. It hit so hard that I couldn't hear my other speakers. So I added component speakers front and rear from crutchfield powered by a clarion 4 channel amp. By the time I was done, my truck was a small extended cab Toyota pickup, I couldn't see out of any of my mirrors. Lol sounded great though. Went to the drive-in and everyone hated me lol
I love the fact at 9 minutes and 25 seconds you mentioned the smell of coils. When you're smelling your coils that means that the show is about over. Time to choose push it and have to recone your s*** or turn it down and take your score.
Yep, one or the other.
The best sounding band-pass I heard used a dayton dcs255 classic 10" really similar to a jbl gto 10". They are xmax limited so they struggle below 35 hz but they have some of the lowest group delay you can find in a band-pass without giving up efficiency. I ended up using it in a 6th order in my daily driver and sacrificing a tiny amount of sound quality for the ability to play some decaf when I feel like it.
Another cool thing is they still play high enough that if you are on a tight budget you don't have to upgrade your mids and highs, the classic 10" can play mid-bass even in a band-pass.
That' awesome!
So your playing mid and highs on a subwoofer ?
That makes no sense AT ALL.
@@casemodder89 some mids yes. Its enough that you shouldn't have to upgrade the 6x9s if you don't want to
Great video. Now where’s the van?
I do have an old beater van, maybe its time to build one?
I remember hearing an Alumapro BP series 8" bandpass box back in the day that sounded like 2 12's. Was only like 1 cubic foot but that batboy dumped. I've been keeping an eye out for one ever since.
When they are done right they are awesome.
I’m using an Alumapro BP 12 on about 175 watts. It’s loud!
@@MadScientist267 I'll buy it from you...
I noticed you didnt talk about 6th orders in this video. I would very much appreciate if you made one.
There seems to be a lot of interest in them!
I have a 6th order wall in my crv but plan on redoing it. So some extra info would be amazing.
Adding more shit doesn't make it better a well designed system doesn't need all that crap NO resistors that's just a copout that you couldn't take the time to design test and tweak your crossover use an L pad if necessary but just keep your Db's very close & you probably won't need them LESS IS More
I think Bose owns the patent for 6th order bp boxes, that is why many companies call them something else. I don't know if the patent has expired, but Bose used to be aggressive about stopping non-licensed use of this enclosure type.
Great content and myth busting! "Myth Bustin' with Justin" maybe a new segment idea!
I like that!
That was a good job. You should explain to everybody what the comb is. And how to tune it properly. You got the numbers
Thanks! I may just have to put that idea on my list.
Thank you for explaining it so well. I've built various enclosures and I always look at the woofer's characteristics to see what type of box is best for that specific woofer. If possible, I prefer to start with measuring the speaker's Theile Small parameters and not using the manufacturer's specs, especially when designing complex bandpass boxes. It's fun to experiment though.
Oh yeah, it's a blast to try out new things.
Thanks for these videos, been trying to understand bandpass and porting for years but there is so little quality content out there, these videos are easy to understand
Bandpass is complicated, not always worth the trouble.
Just got yesterday Jamo SW 505E. Seems a pretty solid unit and this video was very informal to understand it. Thank you :)
👍
I was always a vented box guy, and after watching this, I still am 😁
I listen to a lot of types music, i need that wide, flat response curve a vented box provides.
I think bandpass is cool, but cool does not always sound better.
Good explanation. It still gets deeper which has caused many a grief over the years plus contributed to the bad rap of bandpass. Active filtering and vehicle acoustics should be accounted for in design to extract the most performance while keeping the design practical as well. Many exclude those two things in the design process, but it is very detrimental to the result.
Oh yea, the room (or car) size matters.
Thanks man, I really enjoyed this one. You're fast becoming the Mr. Wizard of car audio.
👍
You mean like the car wizard?
@@DIYAudioGuy
Like the guy that used to have a science show in the 80's. I love the way you break down a lot of these long held mobile audio myths.
Regardless of ratio or driver used for a 4th order bp, the vented side will always be smaller than the sealed side in proper design if looking for the best freq range for sq builds. If the driver is well suited for 4th order, dog ears can be avoided. If the center is @ 0db, then eq's the peaks down will flatten and maintain a more natural sound than trying to boost the lower output range. Cut is always better than boost.
That sounds a lot better than throwing a big woofer and a three to one box, tuning the port to some random frequency, and then claiming that it slams.
Back in 1987 a friend and me built a box out of 3/4" plywood that barely fit in the trunk of my 78 Buick regal from side to side, we put four 12" woofers side by side and we had no port holes it was air tight and I drove it with a Kenwood 920 amp and it thumped like crazy.
This is a really good primer for Bandpass enclosures. I always learn (or re-learn as the case may be) some good stuff from watching your videos. I have created exactly one bandpass subwoofer enclosure in my lifetime... I do feel they can be more difficult to work with, but with your video and a basic working knowledge of WinISD, I think most folks would be able to handle designing one with decent performance, given the driver was suited for it. Given cabin gain in automotive environments, a well-designed bandpass can really be a decent option at times.
I love how you present a lot of knowledge clearly, and quickly. The side-by-side with a vented box FR response is a great way to explain what's going on with changes in the HF and LF box sizes. Great video! Yeah, I'm a bit late to this party. :)
There is nothing wrong with bandpass, but it is not a magic box.
4:20 the 3:1 ratio.. Was born for the ease of porting if you are porting the larger chamber in which a larger diameter port can be used as a length isn't a problem.. I prefer to port the smaller enclosure.. Which makes it harder to get a good port. But I also vent the magnet side. Ratio and Q is Way better using the larger side as the FC tuning with the port Q meeting it.
Back in the 90s I got a hold of the Pioneer Bass book installers guide. It showed a group of modelled enclosures. I learned the EBP concept and matching final QTC and resonance
Back in the day when you had to have a book to find stuff out! Would have loved to have gotten my hands on one of those back then.
@@DIYAudioGuy I learned how T&S changed things with those enclosure graphs and could build and did build many. Lots of calming people down from more woofers showing them one QTC final .707 target would bump better than 2 in the same area at .9
Everytime I watch this video, I learn something. Would be awesome if you could make a part 2 to this bandpass tutorial. 🤘🏻
I have been doing some research on the more exotic bandpass enclosures. There is surprisingly little technical information on them available to the pubic. As soon as I feel like I understand them well enough to explain them I will make a video.
@@DIYAudioGuy awesome, I can’t wait. I been building car audio since the 90’s. Back in 2000 I built a type of band pass for a friend. He had a pickup truck with a topper, so I built a sealed box for 2 15’s firing backwards towards the rear of the truck and it fired into a shell that blew through the rear window. We removed the whole back window. The subs were in a 3 cube each and I would say the chambered was a total of 7 cubes. It didn’t actually have a true port. The vent was the size of the rear window. It played every note from 25HZ to 70 relatively clean and it metered about 150db’s. That was about the only type of bandpass box I’ve ever built.
I had a bandpass with the led lights. For $100 it was pretty decent pass.
I'm glad you're happy with it.
You just made the best video on 4th bandpass, not sure that is a huge complement or a slam on the complete lack of info! All SB aside you did good job! no great, no good. If you watch American Dad you will get that..
🤣
I'm glad you made the qualifiers that you did.
Back in the 80's I tried every possible box design
in numerous variations.
They all stink.
Give me 4 Lab-12s in a 4 cu.ft. SEALED BOX.
It can't be touched for fidelity,
and has equal Output with a Ported Box.
(but needs twice the power).
Right! You can get output from any enclosure you just need to keep cranking up the power!
What I discovered that I was missing was Transient Response.
Great video! I love bandpass! Back in 2004 I had a 01 ford Taurus with two 12 inch pioneer impp TSW305Dvc subs in a 1:1 bandpass I built myself. Front&back chambers was 0.9cuft and I use pvc pipe for the port which was 3" x 5" each if I remember right. It's was Amazing! Had that longthrow bass and I used an audio control epicenter too. Sounded Beautiful inside and outside. People would ask me, "how you get your bass to be so deep and low"? Bass is just air and you want to move alot of it. Your sub is an acoustic air pump!
So Now I have a jeep grand cherokee with a kicker zx2500.1 and a Soundqubed 15" HDX3 in a ported enclosure. It's beats stupid hard but bandpass have this certain sound that I'm addicted too.
I been trying to order another one and build a 4th order wall but their sold out so I'm going to wall it with two Dayton Audio ultimax 18s. I have a 4th program on my PC that I already punch the numbers in and the results are impressive, better than any sub I seen probably because their fs is 19hz. Their louder and more efficient on lows. I can't wait to buy them!
I am a huge fan of the ultimax, and those pioneers from back in the day were awesome!
@@DIYAudioGuy yes man especially the SPL subs they once made. It's like they said forget car audio subwoofers! They were made in Mexico at first. Mexico was making them right because I could give them 2x or 3x the power and they would last but then they move everything to China and it all went down hill from there IMO. The spider would rip and cone would rip. They had the best infinite baffle subs period! Man I miss those days
9:17 I thought it should be pointed out that when the woofer is "Inverted" the voice coil also tends to cool better, especially over longer periods of play, because fresh outside air can enter the open chamber and is exchanged with heated air whereas if the voice coil vent (typically through the rear of the magnet structure) is installed into the sealed chamber the inner air continues to heat and becomes a less efficient cooling system.
Absolutely!
I have always wondered if inverting my subs made a difference been doing it for years...sound like they hit harder and last longer
You the real mvp! So glad there's someone explaining the science in a way we all get! Feeling alot more confident about starting an SQ build now. Was always dubious since most info tailors to SPL.
Hey thanks! Any style of box can be a sound quality box, sound quality gets more complicated as the box gets more complicated. Another thing to keep in mind, I did not talk about it in the video, is group delay. Basically there's going to be a lag between when the signal gets to your subwoofer and when the port produces music. Most of the time this is just the tiniest fraction of a second. But if the group delay gets too big you're going to get a muddy sound. I need to do some research on that and make a video because I'm not quite sure where that threshold is.
@@DIYAudioGuy If you want to hit a wider range of frequency would a bandpass be the best idea then? My goal was to have the sub be able to hit all the low end rather than peaking like my old ported enclosure. Dang even spreading knowledge in the comments good on you! Sounds like a fascinating video can't wait for that!
@@mattsteel7220 My preference is to go with a ported enclosure and tune it low. You'll give up SPL but you'll get more low frequency extension. That's just kind of the trade off.
@@DIYAudioGuy thats a reasonable sacrifice in my eyes, thanks for the tip!
It's not just about the loudest possible sound, but also the right and good sound is important!
Bandpass subwoofer box for me have a problem, all the sound comes out of some plastic pipe and ALWAYS makes noise. You can reduce this but you can never get rid of it 100%
What's the point of a lot of bass if it's not nice to listen to??
So a down firing sealed box is kinda a big bandpass with large port side, like if its under the back seat of an ext cab truck
In a lot of ways yes, but if you think it about it from that standpoint the port tuning is completely random and the ported section is very small.
My JL Audio prefab band pass box from 1995 sounds amazing and is super loud. I wouldn’t have it any other way. The plexy glass doesn’t affect sound whatsoever
JL knows what they are doing.
Man Justin, you made my day with this one.
So if there is a sub, that has a sealed and ported application from manufacturer, can this be utilized as a reference? Or even worked in conjunction with each other? I know this will be based and the optimal power rating and not so much a high power dumping, which as you stated will require a smaller enclosure to control the sub.
I really think the best way to approach a bandpass is to just model it in something like WINISD or bass box pro. They are just too complicated to do it any other way.
I personally have found a relatively small sealed side with about a 1/1.35 ratio is most musical. Tuned to 56 hertz, it’s quite flat throughout the response from about 26-56. Not best for SPL or super lows, but sounds musical, and still gets loud.
😎
Thank you. Ports are a coupler. If you stick paper in a port the paper doesn't blow out. It gets stuck and moves back and forth. Because its a cone. Ported enclosures experience higher internal pressures than sealed enclosures
Exactly!
Who remembers the Thunderbox that MTX Audio had back in like the late 90s early 2000s?! Great box for 250-600 watts, very musical. I remember those Pyle bandpasses haha. Thanks for the video, looking into designing a 4th order for 4 8's, trying to find good information on how to model it. Might need to pick up that book you mentioned.
Your best bet is to just download WINISD. It takes a little time to figure out how to use it, but it's the best free tool for figuring this stuff out.
@@DIYAudioGuy I've got some novice experience with box modeling with WinISD supported by a few other good, free tools. The part that I still have trouble comprehending on 4th order and up is how to properly calculate your air space, like for instance what should ported side vs sealed side start at for each sub. I've modeled so far for 4 Sundown Xv3's, 3 cubes ported and .5 cube sealed @ 45hz gave me a good frequency spread but at like -5db lol. Make the sealed side 1 cube and it peaks hard at 45hz and drops off quickly on Fl/Fh.
Still learning and still have a long way to go just hate to spend the $ on something I model and then the sub doesn't like it, too small, too big etc.
My cousin had one with a Walmart impp pioneer 12 in it on 200 to 300 watts and it was as loud as my Rockford fosgate 10in hx2 in a ported box on 800 watts. That thunderbox sounds awesome. I copied it later with a slot port on the portside with a premier 12 that slammed in the back of my safari van.
First video I've seen from this channel, and it was awesome, thanks! Subscribed! The other thing about bandpass boxes to look out for, with respect to sound quality, is group delay.
Hey thanks! You're not the first person that's mentioned group delay, that's definitely something that gets overlooked.
Hey Justin.......your vids are awesome. I really like the format/editing and I am trying to get my channel going. What editing software do you use??
Camtasia studio.
If you want a good bandpass enclosure that already has a subwoofer, Toby speakers make a great one. Goes down to the 20's hertz and is pretty linear throught the band with. They don't use that much power and have a number of different size enclosure. Located in Halton Tx
I once built a 4th order band pass as recommended by Kicker for the two 12” comp series.
After one week, I made a ported box and it sounded 10X better.
There is a reason ported enclosures are so popular.
@@DIYAudioGuy
I once scoffed at passive radiators in the 80’s as “fake speakers”, rather than frequency extenders, like ports.
I’m now considering the “minimum order” of some Tang Band subwoofer modules for a project, and doing something like early Bose array speakers.
@@dalesmth1 For sure, passive radiators have their uses. They are great for when you're trying to make a small enclosure that otherwise would need a giant port.
20 years ago I build my own.... the BASS transform in something unallocated but you can feel. May be the best in quality I have heard in a system 2.1 for 3X50w RMS. After one years I selled for 250$. The box subwoofer, on amps system inside, still alive.
Awesome.
I have a old Boston Acoustics PV400 true bandpass home theatre subwoofer. The enclosure is in the shape of a skyscraper, 10" x10" footprint and 20" tall and uses a little 7" woofer. Completely sealed with two down firing ports (it sits on little 1" legs) . One of the most unique little subs I have ever seen and for a small sub it cracks really hard. It sounds far better than it should. Awesome little score. Actually have two of them.
They work great if designed well, it is just hard to do that.
Purchase a band pass box in the 90's with two 10's! Years later I forget the brand but it was a medium brand in its time like pyramid I think but anyhow it seemed to have a constand gun to it! Honestly I only purchased sealed boxes after that! Would like to try a ported box next system I build! Looking into purchasing 2 of the down for sound jp 23 amps and two subs and well that's as far as I've gotten to so far but back in the day I ran a cadence electronic crossover with a 7 volt line driver and it made a world of difference cause older head units only put out like 2 volts out the RCA's but now I think the average is close to 5 volt but now they have larger line drivers so though people seem to have forgotten them in going to use one! One amp per sub wired down to either 1 ohm or .5 we'll see!
Sounds like fun!
Many pa. speakers for professional concert use struggle to go deeper than 30hz 40hz.
A speaker that does not play deeper than
50hz - 40hz is not good enough if you ask me.
What's the point of a big heavy box if it doesn't go deeper?
I have owned professional PA. bandpass subwoofer 6ht order that struggled with deep frequencies that didn't sound good. It did not use plastic pipes, it was one box with 18 inches and at least a 200 - 300 liter box.
I tuned a 8th order to the opposite of what you showed at the end of the video at 20 hz, and it actually made a very good theatre box it shakes the paintings on my wall with a single shitty 8
That is awesome!
I’ve done 4:1 ratio bandpassed with huge range . Ratio can be less important with a well designed bandpass . I had the gain of the extra ported volume but kept the range . I could play 18-55 hz . I see some myths being re enforced in this video that aren’t true as well . There is a lot of physical changes that can be made in the design to combat that “peakyness “ that a lot of people think higher ratio enclosures can give you .
That's pretty impressive! They are tricky to design.
4th orders arent too bad , I prefer 6th orders for range and aggressiveness tho I like windy !
Very helpful info. One thing I question though is the last statement you made about the asymmetrical ripple sounding bad. However it seems to me that if you tune it such the the upper ripple is greater and the lower ripple is flattened it could provide excellent results if the upper ripple is well above the crossover frequency.
That is true, once you add a crossover things change.
Back in the day, I had a bandpass with 2 10's in it that were low power and I was really surprised at how loud and well it sounded. I've been debating on building one lately for one of the cheaper 300w 10's from china and an equivalent small cheap amp
Back in the day bandpass and isobaric were popular because subs were not as strong as they are today. So people had to be creative.
@@DIYAudioGuy ok. Yeah, we are talking the year 2000, or early 2001. I had the chance to remember and the subs were two 10" kenwood tornado, single voice coil. I think they were rated around 300w peak. The cones faced each other behind plexiglass and the rear was separated and ported. I can't remember the brand of amp, but I think it was 500 watts. That was my first setup. For what it was, I was impressed. After watching a video, I'm realizing that I might have had better performance if I wired them out of phase and makede it isobaric
We have a legendary local shop called Toby Speakers. He only builds bandpass enclosures for vehicles using Dayton subwoofers. I have a dual 10” and a 3-12” enclosures made by him. The dual 10 is one of his production boxes called the Hitman. My 3-12s enclosure is a one off he did for me. And let me tell you, they get down
That's awesome! It is smart to go with a builder that has experience making these work, they are tricky. Is he using the Ultimax drivers? The Datyon HO did not model well in a 4th order.
Jacob from Audio Customs design me a 4th order for 2 8w7 and it plays 20hrz to 100hrz port Thru the ski hole of my lexus is250..
Nice!
The ski hole is a friggin hidden gem in swear. I had two b2 HN12 subs in 5 cubes with a 6" aero through the ski hole in my old suby and the range was nutty !! Can't even come close to it after 5 different setups in my new rav4 😭 so lame
Nice! We'll put sir.
The mythicals also say if the subs
better suited for sealed box then it should play well in 4th order BP
As a sub better suited for ported box plays good in a 6th order or something like that.
Damn good video on 4th order bandpass!
Absolute statements like that are almost never 100% true.
Just subbed. you explain things in a dumbed down enough even way i could understand it lol. Superb knowledge though, i will keep learning!
Awesome thanks!
Whoaaaaaa man this is knowledge I got two toro force eight inch 800 rms and for some reason my speakers be making popping sound when I crank it up I do believe box is the issue
Does it sound like an electrical pop (like turn-on and turn-off pop) or is it more physical -- like the voice coil former hitting the back plate? If it is the former then a new box will not help. If it is the latter then just turn it down. Either way the sub is damaged. I would recommend a different brand (amzn.to/3vrKQHS).
@@DIYAudioGuy speakers is brand new it only pop because not enough air is coming out the port area of the box it play just fine an clear
When I was younger I was big into subs and stereos. One of my friends decided to make a homemade band pass box which ended up being huge 4ft cube give or take and I never saw inside but this thing he built and added some random add on amp ended up being the most insanely loud incredible source of bass I’ve still to this day ever come across this was when I was like 15-16 he was 13-14 years old(I’m not 43 and he passed away a few years ago) he used it as a surround sound sub. Not sure how he did it but I’ve still never seen one that could even come close to matching it. I’m thinking he must’ve just guessed something correctly because it was unbelievable
Thanks for all the information. I have watched numerous videos by you and there is a ton of useful information. I don't fully understand the frequency lingo, but I'm always trying to learn something new, I built my first subwoofer box in 2012, and learned about the ports and the size of the box is a big part. I somehow figured out that a bandpass(I cant remember what order) was probably the loudest (if built/tuned correctly). Anyway I think I will be building one this year, since I have come across some subs and and amp. Appreciate the work you do, I subscribed.
Awesome! If your goal is just to get as loud as possible then band pass is a good way to go.
On all the bandpass videos this one I understand it's well explained even to beginners like me thank you
That's what I was shooting for.
Diy guy.
Me with the Harley trike with sub in trunk.
Wondering if this selfpowered sub. The 8” active and 8” passive made by Exoxgear. Comes with 500 watt amp.
I have cut a 7-1/4” hole in lid.
Perhaps a passive radiator could go here.
I could also put a port in the rear wall.
So wonder - if the radiator was used exclusively. Would it transfer the sound inside the trike trunk. The trunk measures 2’-6” wide X 12” tall by 10” deep.
This is just a temp solution.
Could either go 2 ways
1) put 8” subwoofer in lid, and put port into rear wall.
2) keep lid solid, put sub into rear wall and fire into area below seating area.
Getting good bass on a motorcycle is tricky.
Dear youtube algorithm Why did you took so long to recommend this channel ?
My friend... You are using a low Qts 10" driver optimized for ported enclosures when modeling a 4th order BP. If you had used a 6th order BP for the RSS265, you'd get better results.
Absolutely. You've got to put the right driver in the right box.
First time watching this channel. Bro, you look exactly like the lead at my shop that works on 1st shift. Even your mannerisms too. The irony is he's a huge audiophile too. 😂
Thanks for watching.
Very interesting and informative content! I just purchased a Dayton Audio 12” HO DVC sub. I’m trying to understand box designs. What box design would you suggest for the best SQ? I have a space 15”W x 32”L x 15”H. My 15”W is fixed but the other dimensions are flexible. This will be placed between my seats in my second row?
Thank You in advance for your insight!
Your best bet is to download WINisd and model it. If you don't want to deal with WINisd I offer box design services. Another option is to reach out to parts express' tech support. They are very helpful.
Hi, great video. How do I calculate the formula to adjust port according to sealed side? Thanks
I would skip the formulas and go right to WinISD.
Love the simplocity and informal info
Simplicity
Simple is good.
The last bandpass box I bought almost brought me to tears.. it was very underwhelming
I just got the TX-WX1210AH and it hits hard. Sure you can buy separate components that will beat this but for convenience to take out in 5 seconds and put back in and have some serious hard hitting bass ........well there really is nothing so convenient.
That's awesome!
I remember a friend that had a bandpass enclosure with 2 12's and a cheater Autotek 80 watt amp . I never heard 2 12's that loud . This was about 1990
Those cheater amps were cool.
Great explanation. Thanks. I would be interested in understanding group delay and what is relationship (if any) of seconds delay (as shown in winisd) and pecieved sound quality.
I haven't done any research on it.
in the analog filter world (or digital for that matter) , group delay is essentially how smooth the phase changes with frequency and the 'slower or smoother' the phase changes, the less distortion that wave shape has. Filters in radios often have added sections to smooth these changes to make it easier to recover the waveshape when demodulating the signal.
My boy literally says there's no secret ratio, then proceeds to tell us the formula to get our secret ratios.
I was hoping nobody would catch that. 😆
@DJ WRAITH Yes exactly.
Fr then says the box of choice sucks all around
@DJ WRAITH just get one comp sub and you'll be happy. its simple and cheap. Box specs are never perfect, most important thing you have to do is tune by ear.
My first system was like 400 bucks installed, it lasted me like 8-9 years and it slammed until i fried the amp then the sub. Gonna rebuild the sub at some point hopefully.
@DJ WRAITH Go infinite baffle in the trunk with Acoustic Elegance Lambda drivers.
Holy Moly Kismet. I just happen to have the exact subwoofer (Dayton Audio 10's) that Im building a box for.
It's a fantastic driver.
@@DIYAudioGuy Yes, thanks for finding out that a ported box is better than a bandpass on these. Just saved me hours of trial and error.
This man is telling 100% truth. I was building bandpass boxs, before anyone knew what they were. I fiscovered the design, by screwing around with different project designs, in my garage a few weeks, when I and a few friends were young. Big into, audio fabrication, we were searching for that peak on low bass. The idea came to me, exactly how he explained it, how the sub pushes, and pulls the air through the ports, making the ports, a subwoofer cones practically. Do not buy a bandpass box from a marketplace, instead, find an old school builder, that does it from passion. They will most definitely build you the 1 of a kind Bandpass, your looking for
I agree.
Have you learned how to model enclosures with winISD? Jeez, so much fun to play with!
Been wanting a good video on bandpass boxes it's like their a thing of the past...I'm going to find one that I can put a scar audio 12 in it
I remember back in the '90s when band pass and isoberic for all the rage. People had to get creative to get loud because amplifier power was so expensive.These days we mostly see bandpass in big SPL builds.
This is why I like good, big, old fashioned sealed boxes. 😜
👍
This is great info! Can you elaborate on best polarity for a powered subwoofer?
Typically we just go with standard polarity, positive from the amp to the positive on the speaker, negative on the amp to the negative on the speaker. Sometimes it doesn't sound good because of the placement and position of the subs or interactions around the crossover point and it's useful to flip the polarity or adjust the phase.
What also matters a lot is the volume of your car. I took one boxed sub over three cars (small hatch/medium hatch/estate) and the perceived power diminished massively.
That, and where you place it in the vehicle.
Question…. If you have a woofer that works in a sealed or vented enclosure… can you design the sealed side of the band pass box based on the sealed specs for the woofer and the vented side based on the vented specs? As a starting point/ ballpark?
That is a fine starting place.
The best bandpass box I've ever had is called toby speakers/box by mr toby, what a legend. With only one single 10" sheriff 200w speaker and a 160w amp sonds like 2 12" 2000w system
Back in day yeah but 2 12s on 2000 this day and age no.
@@BenaresDarkness dude you don't have an idea, they got better. People think I have a $2000+ system lol. If im telling you there the best they just are.
Sounds like a fun system.
I May be wrong but after watching a couple times. It sounds to me a 4th order gives you the benefit of a louder than ported box but with the smooth roll off of a sealed box.. I think right? I might be overthinking it but idk I’m just curious how it would sound.
No, it has the same roll off as a ported box. And it's not necessarily louder. Some subwoofers will be louder in a regular ported box.
People need to know what the "theile" or small parameters of a sub means, that way they can use those numbers to dictate what type of enclosure they want to use. Alot of people dont know that certain subs are 4th order friendly,so imo, you should also cover the bases on the small parameters. If you have any luck explaining it in a simple , yet non boring way , i commend you lol.
The non-boring part is the tricky part. The other tricky part is pronouncing Theile. Does anybody know the correct pronunciation?
Your so right ! So nice to finally hear people putting these people in their place they seem to think they can change the laws of physics
@@DIYAudioGuy i say it like it is spelled like theel. It just sounds more masculine and less like a guy who wears neckscarfs and drives fiats.
@@Hayawasa You got a problem with Fiats?
@@mescko not really, the abarth is a fun little car, i was attempting to create humor. The hard part about that is , you can type something that most people can chuckle at,but there will always be a few people that dont get it.
Had a dual audio band pass box the one that had two subs in one chamber with the big glass and 4 ports on top with two 12 inch kenwood blue waves mounted to see the magnets on a 1800 watt kenwood amp that slammed
Idk how I’ve never found your videos before. The way you explain stuff and relate it to real world is awesome! Going to search your videos but I hope you have something on designing regular ported or sealed boxes based off of sub/amp specs!
I have a few videos about ports, here is one of them. ruclips.net/video/-yopTneS7g8/видео.html
I still have the pioneer ts - wx206, 8inch bandpass box,it's a true bomb
cool!
8:30 "if you want the box to get lower, the sealed portion has to be larger" but the sealed portion gets smaller in the animation. is this a mistake?
Some examples of good speakers using bandpass: Jamo Oriel, Jamo 707,Jamo 507, Technics SB-M series.....
Question can you do a video on a isobaric ported box
I would like to! Back in the day isobaric was very popular.