I was short on time before a build and wondered if there was a version of advice to watch, without all the sidetracking extra commentary that makes a 5 minute tip into a feature length film. None to worry if it's thought of as too fast to comprehend, that's what pause and rewind is for. However additional content is rewarding, just not for those pressed for time. And yes, it's known that the forward button or advancing the video is helpful, but then it's guessing where to forward to without missing information unknown. So then it's back to the "slow-show". That said, I'm a huge fan, and have used tips by this guy for a while, and have been in cabinet building since 1985. So while I have a good knowledge base, anyone can still learn tips and new things always. I humbly post this, with great and honest gratitude
Man, I just wanted to take a second to thank you and the other audio guys that go into detail about these type of things for us diy guys. I do all my audio myself and I never would have learned as much as I have without guys like you. So I appreciate all the time and effort you have spent giving us all the info you have. You do great work man, and you definitely know what your doing so I just wanted to point that out and give you a "pat on the back". Thanks man
Absolutely great topic! One thing I will add from my experience; I always design the face that contains the port as a single piece (that’s to say the port wall end is not exposed on the outside of the box.). The reason this takes priority for me is that I use a jigsaw to rough cut the opening for assembly, then a router with a flush trim bit to finish the hole once assembled. This allows for the use of a round over on the port mouth as a final step, and prevents awkwardness from nails or screws when making the pass as they’re always on the face and the bit’s bearing doesn’t have to ride over them. 😉
EXECELLENT TUTORIAL! If you don't have a cut guide tool or table saw. Clamp a finished piece 2X4 or other very straight board, straight edge, etc. along your cut line so the circular saw base plate slide down it and the blade cuts perfectly straight from start to finish.
I recommend using glue and screws no matter how long you’ve been making enclosures for high pressure applications. Over time, screws will hold more securely than using an air nailer due to the added surface area of the screw’s thread and how they lock into the wood’s fiber.
For big builds with powerful subs, yes. Plus use a lot of internal support, braces, battens, etc.... For a pair of 10s or 12s under 1k watts. Glue and brad nails with some bracing is fine.
Wood glue is significantly stronger than the wood itself. Screws or nails are just there to hold the wood until the glue dries. I think screws will give the most fudge factor if your cuts aren't prefect though.
Tracks saws are awesome too. I use my track saw for the long cuts and my table saw for the short cuts because I dont have a place to set up a spot for my table saw to be permanent. And i still prefer the screw and glue method with clamps. I use the SPAX MDF screws. You don't have to predrill any holes, but you still have to be careful of screw placement. Even though they are narrower than drywall screws, they can still cause the wood to split if they are too close to the edge of the adjoining piece. And another thing to consider and it doesn't matter what type of saw that you're using. You have to keep in mind of which side of the line is going to be cut. You can easily come up short by the thickness of the blade if you're not careful. If you're super motivated, you can use a 4 ft level and a circular saw to make good str8 cuts. Once you get the measurements down for the distance from the edge of the 4ft level to the cut side of your blade...you're good to go. Just make sure to clamp down the 4ft level before you start cutting. 😁😆✌🏾
Never used any of these tools but have been cutting wood for 30 years, yes some come out a little off but you put that into your design, it’s all good dude
You can also allow more bass to sealed boxes over ported boxes. Again speakers last longer in sealed boxes then ported boxes. Do the test for yourself you will see more bass output in the sealed boxes.
I recommend using construction adhesive for assembly regardless of your skill level, it adds strength to the joints and helps hold some of the internal corner braces in place more securely.
I bought the Kreg edge guide it helped but buying the WEN 6.5" track saw made a huge improvement and really stepped up my cuts. When comparing the price the WEN was not all that much more than the guide itself with way better results.
@@DIYAudioGuy I use I use Ryobi cordless tools as well. I have a dust vacuum so when that is connected to the WEN track saw there is no advantage to being without a cord. If you want to keep dust to a minimum the WEN track saw and Mikita vacuum work amazing together.
@@DIYAudioGuy the ryobi uses a different track than other tracksaw. The wen is standard so if you rob a bank you can upgrade and already have the track. the tracksaw changed the quality of my wood working and I have one of the several thousand dollar table saw. they are amaizing.
I use a folding (hinged), 6'×10' support table (which supports the entire 4×8 sheet). And a rigid saw guide, having an intergrated saw support and high volume dust collector. This is less cumbersome than a tablesaw (even with an extended table). Very fast and easy to set up! I only use a tablesaw and sliding tablesaw sled for smaller panel pieces. Another handy tool are sets of labeled spacer strip pieces, in common stock widths - zero measuring!
First box I ever made I used a circular saw freehand. I think about 20% of that box was wood filler by the time I was done. Edit: Oh I also didn't predrill a single hole.. MDF does not like that
@@Alexlivingloud I used a wobbly portable table saw, and some of my measurements were way off. I used sand paper to get all the edges trimmed down and I probably spent like 2 hours sanding. My hands ached do bad 😂😭
Thanks for this info I'm going to attempt to make a box for two twelves you had a lot of great tips I wouldn't of not thought off being a newbie to box making thank you
Ive made a few speaker boxes and bass cabinet but the whole time i thought i was the only one doing it i almost thought it was rediculous just buy something but its fun if u have decent tools and some knowlage so now i nothing against it its a hobby for some and a bussiness for others but good video 👍
Own both a Bosch contractor saw, and the Kreg Rip Cut. Use them both as follows. The Kreg Rip Cut is actually much better to break down larger sheet stock than a Contractor Table Saw. And also much safer. Once the 4x8 sheet is broken down. the table saw takes over with the smaller cuts. Contractor Table Saws, and Cabinet Saws are not the same...
While being a little gimmicky, I have been using flex seal on the inside of my box. Just spray along the inside the box and let it sit. A lot less messy than silicone that I always make a mess with.
Super interesting! Perfect timing as well since I'm going to build a portable bluetooth speaker here soon. On that note, do you have a video explaining what kind of drivers would be best suitable for the type or size of enclosure you're using and what size of drivers you should use, i.e what size of speakers, tweeters, midrange, full range, woofers or subwoofers? If not buying/using a kit? Thanks for the video. Super helpful!!
Another Tip for easier box building that I learned the hard way: don't create complex shapes with triangles and wird angles. I did it and it cost me an extra 15 hrs. compared to an easy layout. In my case it was Wörth it since I absolutely wanted a sub that distributes bass evenly im my entire room ( tried it with another sub and ideal position was in a corner with 18° angled sideways and 11° angled upwards.
I should probably clarify: I've got a roof slope in my room that works like a horn, thats why the angle was chosen so precisely, as to maximize the horn effect. The sideway tilt is there because on the other side of the room there is a big wardrobe vwith a bookshelf (with books) that acts as a bass trap. I could have just put the sub to the opposite site of the wardrobe, however, for a single sub using a corner is better to fill my room. For 99.9% of people out there, going to such lengths is NOT necessary. It's just the layout of my room that allows me to take advantage of such a complex box design.
Great video. I'm a bass fanatic since I first entered a Mini Cooper loaded with four 15 Rockford Fosgate subwoofers. That was around 20 some years ago. Anyway, what would you recommend for a system that would shake the foundations of buildings?
Hey have you ever tested different depths behind the woofer in an enclosure but still using same internal volume. Basically using a rectangular box and placing the driver on different panels. I’ve heard claims of increasing back pressure and also claims that it won’t change.
Little tip not related to cuts, down load a good box calculator. I see tons and tons of mistakes form hand drawn plans for your tune. The calculator you can make small or large changes to get your tune were you want it before ever making a cut. Kicker has a good one I personally use the ct sounds one. Both are free.
If you are going to make many boxes and want to do this on a regular basis, the track saw is the way to go leaps and bounds above a table saw. And by far most accurate if you can measure with a tape measure. No man handling the sheets just lay the track from the track saw on the sheet and cut with the saw. Festool and Makita both make great saws and the tracks are interchangeable too. Work smarter not harder!
I've built about 50 boxes with a circular saw . He is right in a speaker box is much more precise if you can cut within a 1/32nd you have to cut another board . It's really closer to 1/40 th on an inch for tolerance. PL glue is your friend, it's cheap .
Good day, may I ask if I can use a damping material in a speakerbox. It is a foam substance and I put in the back to bounce the sound off. It does have a full sound and not a tin sound. What do you recommend, the speakers are small and not to big to use in my vehicle. I don't like mounting them in my vehicle, they are set in places that they can't move around.
4:55 that left brace is very close to the port opening on the inside. This can create a choke point and the tune will be off. You wanna have ATLEAST the width of the port of free space in front of the port opening, preferably more to be sure.
Also, if you have to reset your fence, use a piece that's already cut to size and place it against the blade and move the fence till the wood is touching the blade and fence.
I wouldn't use silicone to seal boxes. Wood glue or wood construction adhesive only. Silicone sealants have solvents that offgas as it cures. The solvent fumes can soften the varnish on your coils when they get hot and cause premature failure. You can use it, but wait a full day or more to put your subs in the box after building/sealing it. Then blow it out good first.
PL Premium construction adhesive (regular 3x) is all I use to build boxes (and I build a lot of them). It expands as it cures to fill joints airtight (so has to be clamped or brad nailed to hold the boards in place or else the expansion will move them out of alignment). Your cuts can all be 1/8" (or larger) off and it'll bridge that gap no problem as it is very thick, solves all sorts of cutting sins. Use lots so you get good squeeze out on every joint and you'll be airtight. Don't clean up the squeeze out right away, you'll make a BIG mess. Instead, leave it and wait about 6-8 hours for it to set up but still not fully hard and then you can easily scrape the squeeze out off CLEANLY with a scraper or chisel or even a 2" drywall putty knife. If you get the timing right you'll have very clean looking joints. Don't wait too long or it'll become quite difficult to remove once it fully hardens. PL premium also creates as an incredibly strong joint after fully cured as it is a polyurethane adhesive. I build touring subwoofer boxes that are only held together by PL Premium, no screws or any other fasteners and these are 260 lb+ boxes that get tossed around on and off the truck after every show and they hold up no problem. Oh ya, wear gloves or your hands will be black for a week.
I see a lot of people using plywood in videos now , I’ve always used MDF , but I’m in California so not much moisture in the air , is there some new data about Mdf vs plywood? Or is it still a preference or is it just a southern thing like Florida where the humidity is high the wood stays together?
It think it is just a style/preference thing and plywood is trendy now. BUT! Very few people are using real Baltic Birch. You can't just walk into Home Depot and buy that stuff.
Hey brother...your videos are very informative and helpful...thank you for the content...anyway you would be willing to mock up a dual sub enclosure with a slotted port in the center...subs and port front firing...thanks for the consideration
Good thing about the side port boxes is you can make a more narrow (less wide) box to fit a bigger box in the trunk. I could only fit a 4.5cf box in mine. It's front subs and port. But I think if I went w side port, I coulda fit a 5.0cf box?🤷♂️
On those smaller Box builds you should be able to consider the height measurement 1st since most of the pieces We'll be that same measurement. Basically just making 1 or Is to full Length rips
This should be labeled as beginner's guide. I found this to all be common knowledge for woodworking that I learned in my first shop class back in 6th grade
The Trick to a circular saw straight cut by free hand is to move at a moderate fast pace while cutting. I do how ever use a metal ruler clamped for a guide if I'm cutting to do a top off line on say fence gate. 🙃
box face and back should always cap encloser making the box strong for woofers... that is great advise... but.... port should always be on the same side as woofer....for best acoustic coupling... but the side is the next best choice... but take the extra time and try and put in on the front where the woofer is mounted...
I prefer building my cabinets with box mitre router bits and rabbit edges , solid wood front baffles . I no longer need brad nails or screws whatsoever. You are spot on about precision cuts .
I've been experimenting with a dado blade and I've got one of those lock miter bits for the router. It's a little time consuming to set up and calibrate. When I get that mastered I'll make some videos on it.
I don't disagree that the fewer number of cut setups possible is a good idea but I wouldn't prioritize it over structural integrity. For instance, on a double baffle. The inner baffle should always be an inside board, such that the sides, top and bottom attach to its end. Then the second baffle layer should overlay that such that it creates a herring boned joint on all sides of the double baffle. This creates a much stronger joint partly because it increases the surface area of the joint and partly because it creates both sheer and tensile stress on the joinery. When I build an enclosure, the top and bottom (or front and back) will be the same size and every other panel in the build will be the same dimension in one direction. And with center ports, you'll have two of each panel in both dimensions. And there are more advantages to center ported enclosures. The center port creates a brace in the center of the enclosure, which is very important, but I see a lot of guys building enclosures with two subs in them and the port is all the way to one end or the other. You're throwing away a free center brace when you do that and, if you lose a sub while playing, it doesn't put as much stress on the one that's still playing. If you have straight cuts and good wood glue there is NEVER a reason for caulk of any kind. But if you must, silicone is just about the worst thing you can use. Silicone sticks to nothing... not even itself. If you need caulk, use painters caulk. It doesn't stink, it's much easier to clean up and it actually bonds to wood. And last, if you're using MDF, don't use screws. I won't even use them on plywood but it is especially important to avoid them with MDF because they will split the wood and weaken it. And the only way to avoid this splitting is to predrill the holes so large that the threads don't engage the material. I've built everything from simple computer speakers to 40kW SPL builds and I never use screws in the end of a panel. Also, keep any fastener 2" from the end of a panel. I know it seems like you're doing good by putting them all the way to the corner but all that really does is split the material in two directions. This comes from a manufacturer's instruction on MDF, not from my personal experience but only because I happened to read it in 1990 or so when I built my first enclosure from MDF. Before then we used particle board, which isn't fun to work with at all, lol.
Awesome video. I really appreciate you taking the time to make video’s like this one. I am in the process of putting together a stereo system and wanted to give building the box for the two subwoofers that I own. The box they’re in now is to shallow making the subwoofers to not seat. I also want the box to be the proper size for the particular subs that I have. Having said that I have two questions if you don’t mind giving me your advice I would really appreciate it. Now I have two JL Audio 10w6v3’s what wood do you recommend I use and do you recommend a sealed box or ported? Again any recommendations and advice to help me out with my journey I’d highly appreciate. Thanks
@@DIYAudioGuy I can afford to have a shop make it but I have been into car Audio since before I could even drive watching my older brothers. Now I’m 36 and building a box is something I have really been wanting to do for quite some time now. But thanks for your advice!
Hey mate, love your vids, I'm looking into building a sub box and I have a questions regarding Amplifier placement, I notice alot of the designs out there on the internet look like designs for passive speakers. If I were to add a plate amp to the Sub Box itself, do I need to take into account how much volume it takes up inside the box and adjust the box size accordingly? I've also considered a fake wall in the back to preserve the volume of the box however the box size is becoming impractical. 18" Driver and a dayton SPA1000 plate amp.
I find the easiest and most accurate way to cut wood for an enclosure is to let my hardware store do it. Most hardware or lumber yards where you buy wood from offer cutting services with equipment far more precise than what a typical homeowner has. Sometimes there's no extra charge to make the cuts.
Both Home Depot and Lowes in my area will do two cuts with their panel saw free of charge. The accuracy is entirely a function of the employee running the saw.
I'm a pretty horrible box builder, LOL. For a number of reasons, including my eyesight. One thing I try not to do though is end up with a box design that results in a situation where, during glue-up time, a piece needs to be slid into place, rather than pressed into place, and when pressing a piece into place, I make sure to use enough wood glue to ensure that excess glue is pushed out from both sides of the edge that's being joined. Finally, I wipe the excess off from both sides of the edge with a damp cloth. This ensures a strong and airtight glue joint.
Just throwing this out there for anyone willing to help. I've been trying to decide on what system i want in my car. The main problem im having is deciding on what size sub i want. Im between 2 12s and 2 15s both running 600w rms. The question i mainly have is what size and tuning frequency i should go for if i want a box to play low and still be musical. Any help or advice would be very appreciated.
Planning on building a box for 2 Visaton FR8s to fit into a model tank. The space im working with is very tight, and the boxes will only be 1 1/2x the size of the speakers. Is there any benefits to port them? Or will I sealed box be easier?
It is hard to get loud and low bass out of a speaker that small, and out of a small enclosure. A port will help, but small boxes require very long ports. So either go sealed or look into using a passive radiator.
Hi I have 8 6" speakers I have 4 mid-range and 4 vice and I want a make one box to accommodate all the speakers for my home system can you send me a diagram and measurement to build one thank you
You will need an internal crossover network for that. Those can be complicated so I charge quite a bit to design them. I recommend that you join TOIDS DIY forum, they can help.
a wen track saw is the tool for this and the cost less than a circular saw and kreig guide, about $120. for breaking down sheet goods i think tracksaws are better than a table saw. in my old age I have realized the tracksaw is great for big things and the table saw is for small cuts.
If you have multiple cuts to make at the same length, cut them all to width at the same time while your saw is set up for that cut, you waste a lot of time setting up your machines and jigs.
I want to add on to a sub box particularly not finished and I want to add length the the width can you possibly get your hands on a 350z 2003-2006 and make a custom build for it I could really use the help threw a video I'm a hands on kinda guy and I like your videos
I dont understand why everybody uses clamps on these box builds. Just get some thin screws, no drilling, it wont split with thin screws. You could throw a box together in less then an hour or a nailer works but most people dont have those.
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This is how I've built boxes since the 90s. This is some of the best box building advice I've seen on RUclips.
Everything just fits better.
I was short on time before a build and wondered if there was a version of advice to watch, without all the sidetracking extra commentary that makes a 5 minute tip into a feature length film. None to worry if it's thought of as too fast to comprehend, that's what pause and rewind is for. However additional content is rewarding, just not for those pressed for time. And yes, it's known that the forward button or advancing the video is helpful, but then it's guessing where to forward to without missing information unknown. So then it's back to the "slow-show". That said, I'm a huge fan, and have used tips by this guy for a while, and have been in cabinet building since 1985. So while I have a good knowledge base, anyone can still learn tips and new things always. I humbly post this, with great and honest gratitude
Man, I just wanted to take a second to thank you and the other audio guys that go into detail about these type of things for us diy guys. I do all my audio myself and I never would have learned as much as I have without guys like you. So I appreciate all the time and effort you have spent giving us all the info you have. You do great work man, and you definitely know what your doing so I just wanted to point that out and give you a "pat on the back". Thanks man
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Kids, in whatever you do remember to measure twice then cut once. Measure twice then cut once.
Absolutely great topic! One thing I will add from my experience; I always design the face that contains the port as a single piece (that’s to say the port wall end is not exposed on the outside of the box.). The reason this takes priority for me is that I use a jigsaw to rough cut the opening for assembly, then a router with a flush trim bit to finish the hole once assembled. This allows for the use of a round over on the port mouth as a final step, and prevents awkwardness from nails or screws when making the pass as they’re always on the face and the bit’s bearing doesn’t have to ride over them. 😉
Pro tip for sure!
I'm definitely going to start doing that now
EXECELLENT TUTORIAL!
If you don't have a cut guide tool or table saw. Clamp a finished piece 2X4 or other very straight board, straight edge, etc. along your cut line so the circular saw base plate slide down it and the blade cuts perfectly straight from start to finish.
A straight scrap of MDF or plywood also works. Anything straight.
Great video. Building different boxes and trying different things is what it's all about. Making it easier and faster makes it more fun.
I agree.
I recommend using glue and screws no matter how long you’ve been making enclosures for high pressure applications. Over time, screws will hold more securely than using an air nailer due to the added surface area of the screw’s thread and how they lock into the wood’s fiber.
For big builds with powerful subs, yes. Plus use a lot of internal support, braces, battens, etc....
For a pair of 10s or 12s under 1k watts. Glue and brad nails with some bracing is fine.
Wood glue is significantly stronger than the wood itself. Screws or nails are just there to hold the wood until the glue dries. I think screws will give the most fudge factor if your cuts aren't prefect though.
@@jeremynelson8496 I agree.
Yes! Even cured glue can move and degrade over time - especially with constant vibration (joint stress).
@@jeremynelson8496
True. Except glue can degrade over time. I've seen this happen. Add constant vibration and ...
Excellent points. 20 years ago, I've made some atrocities. Having to fill gaps with silicone. And just bad looking enclosures.
I have been there!
Tracks saws are awesome too. I use my track saw for the long cuts and my table saw for the short cuts because I dont have a place to set up a spot for my table saw to be permanent. And i still prefer the screw and glue method with clamps. I use the SPAX MDF screws. You don't have to predrill any holes, but you still have to be careful of screw placement. Even though they are narrower than drywall screws, they can still cause the wood to split if they are too close to the edge of the adjoining piece. And another thing to consider and it doesn't matter what type of saw that you're using. You have to keep in mind of which side of the line is going to be cut. You can easily come up short by the thickness of the blade if you're not careful. If you're super motivated, you can use a 4 ft level and a circular saw to make good str8 cuts. Once you get the measurements down for the distance from the edge of the 4ft level to the cut side of your blade...you're good to go. Just make sure to clamp down the 4ft level before you start cutting. 😁😆✌🏾
Never used any of these tools but have been cutting wood for 30 years, yes some come out a little off but you put that into your design, it’s all good dude
You have never used a table saw?
As long as those mistakes were engineered into the plans its all good. Lol
@@DIYAudioGuy I've never used one. It'd be good, but most saws I could get I can't see how I'd cut a 4x8 plywood with them
One of your better beginner Vids. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
You can also allow more bass to sealed boxes over ported boxes. Again speakers last longer in sealed boxes then ported boxes. Do the test for yourself you will see more bass output in the sealed boxes.
If your claim is true then nobody would ever run ported boxes.
I recommend using construction adhesive for assembly regardless of your skill level, it adds strength to the joints and helps hold some of the internal corner braces in place more securely.
I never used construction adhesive. Maybe I should give it a try sometime.
I bought the Kreg edge guide it helped but buying the WEN 6.5" track saw made a huge improvement and really stepped up my cuts. When comparing the price the WEN was not all that much more than the guide itself with way better results.
Ryobi has a cordless one now, if I get a track saw I'll probably go that route since I already have batteries.
@@DIYAudioGuy I use
I use Ryobi cordless tools as well. I have a dust vacuum so when that is connected to the WEN track saw there is no advantage to being without a cord. If you want to keep dust to a minimum the WEN track saw and Mikita vacuum work amazing together.
@@DIYAudioGuy the ryobi uses a different track than other tracksaw. The wen is standard so if you rob a bank you can upgrade and already have the track. the tracksaw changed the quality of my wood working and I have one of the several thousand dollar table saw. they are amaizing.
I use a folding (hinged), 6'×10' support table (which supports the entire 4×8 sheet). And a rigid saw guide, having an intergrated saw support and high volume dust collector. This is less cumbersome than a tablesaw (even with an extended table). Very fast and easy to set up!
I only use a tablesaw and sliding tablesaw sled for smaller panel pieces.
Another handy tool are sets of labeled spacer strip pieces, in common stock widths - zero measuring!
That is a nice set up!
This was very helpful 🤯 . My only build I had to do all the crazy adjusting to make my cuts 🤦♂️. Well now I know, thanks!
5:56 All the boxes I've done have that problem 😅😅
Audio Manufacturing Lean Processing. This is great detailing for this process per project. Fantastic topic!
Glad you enjoyed it!
First box I ever made I used a circular saw freehand. I think about 20% of that box was wood filler by the time I was done.
Edit: Oh I also didn't predrill a single hole.. MDF does not like that
Sounds like my first box.
This makes me feel slightly better about my first box 😂😂 cuz that box was horrendous too lmao
@@bailey2517same. I used caulking to seal those big gaps lol.😂
@@Alexlivingloud I used a wobbly portable table saw, and some of my measurements were way off. I used sand paper to get all the edges trimmed down and I probably spent like 2 hours sanding. My hands ached do bad 😂😭
Router and a flush trim bit is how I fix my mistakes, but it all takes extra time!
Yep.
Thanks for this info I'm going to attempt to make a box for two twelves you had a lot of great tips I wouldn't of not thought off being a newbie to box making thank you
Glad it was helpful!
When you said even a skilled worker will have a wobble on a regular skills saw you ain't lying but it is possible good stuff bro just subed
Yes.
Ive made a few speaker boxes and bass cabinet but the whole time i thought i was the only one doing it i almost thought it was rediculous just buy something but its fun if u have decent tools and some knowlage so now i nothing against it its a hobby for some and a bussiness for others but good video 👍
Own both a Bosch contractor saw, and the Kreg Rip Cut. Use them both as follows.
The Kreg Rip Cut is actually much better to break down larger sheet stock than a Contractor Table Saw. And also much safer.
Once the 4x8 sheet is broken down. the table saw takes over with the smaller cuts.
Contractor Table Saws, and Cabinet Saws are not the same...
it's not preachy if you're right. you're good bro! thank you for the help!
Good point
I'd be so happy to have that table saw in my work space
It's a great table saw, the dust collection is absolute crap. Hopefully I'll never engage the safety feature.
Assuming the financials of this channel, Sir ! You actually deserve more than this 🎉 A fan From Pakistan 🇵🇰
While being a little gimmicky, I have been using flex seal on the inside of my box. Just spray along the inside the box and let it sit. A lot less messy than silicone that I always make a mess with.
Me too, really helps too. That stuff is amazing.
I'm going to have to give that a try.
That is a great idea, I hate using caulk. Thanks for the advice!
And it will hold a boat with 80 holes up in water. Lol.
But does it increase flex? Seems like false advertisement lol.
Super interesting! Perfect timing as well since I'm going to build a portable bluetooth speaker here soon.
On that note, do you have a video explaining what kind of drivers would be best suitable for the type or size of enclosure you're using and what size of drivers you should use, i.e what size of speakers, tweeters, midrange, full range, woofers or subwoofers? If not buying/using a kit?
Thanks for the video. Super helpful!!
I do not, it would probably take a big long series of videos to flush all that out.
@@DIYAudioGuy ahh, makes sense. Thanks and HNY to you and yours 😊
Fun to watch the explanation. It's good to see you're hooking up those jus5 getting into building
Thanks 👍
Use the cultist application. Lay out your panels to minimize fence changes and check them off as you go
👍
Another Tip for easier box building that I learned the hard way: don't create complex shapes with triangles and wird angles. I did it and it cost me an extra 15 hrs. compared to an easy layout. In my case it was Wörth it since I absolutely wanted a sub that distributes bass evenly im my entire room ( tried it with another sub and ideal position was in a corner with 18° angled sideways and 11° angled upwards.
Absolutely.
I should probably clarify:
I've got a roof slope in my room that works like a horn, thats why the angle was chosen so precisely, as to maximize the horn effect. The sideway tilt is there because on the other side of the room there is a big wardrobe vwith a bookshelf (with books) that acts as a bass trap. I could have just put the sub to the opposite site of the wardrobe, however, for a single sub using a corner is better to fill my room.
For 99.9% of people out there, going to such lengths is NOT necessary. It's just the layout of my room that allows me to take advantage of such a complex box design.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS 😅 You Share Alot Of Valuable Knowledge 👍 Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I'm a bass fanatic since I first entered a Mini Cooper loaded with four 15 Rockford Fosgate subwoofers. That was around 20 some years ago. Anyway, what would you recommend for a system that would shake the foundations of buildings?
Lots of power and lots of cone area.
Hey have you ever tested different depths behind the woofer in an enclosure but still using same internal volume. Basically using a rectangular box and placing the driver on different panels. I’ve heard claims of increasing back pressure and also claims that it won’t change.
Conventional wisdom is that it does not make any difference, I don't know if anyone's ever actually tested that conventional wisdom.
Little tip not related to cuts, down load a good box calculator. I see tons and tons of mistakes form hand drawn plans for your tune. The calculator you can make small or large changes to get your tune were you want it before ever making a cut. Kicker has a good one I personally use the ct sounds one. Both are free.
Yes.
If you are going to make many boxes and want to do this on a regular basis, the track saw is the way to go leaps and bounds above a table saw. And by far most accurate if you can measure with a tape measure. No man handling the sheets just lay the track from the track saw on the sheet and cut with the saw. Festool and Makita both make great saws and the tracks are interchangeable too. Work smarter not harder!
A track saw is a good idea.
Again, loved this Video.
I've built about 50 boxes with a circular saw . He is right in a speaker box is much more precise if you can cut within a 1/32nd you have to cut another board . It's really closer to 1/40 th on an inch for tolerance.
PL glue is your friend, it's cheap .
I have never used PL, I know some people swear by it.
I'm getting ready to build a box for 2 12s and I already plan on inverting them. Should I port the enclosure or is that unnecessary?
My new favorite RUclipsr
You are far to kind.
Good day, may I ask if I can use a damping material in a speakerbox. It is a foam substance and I put in the back to bounce the sound off.
It does have a full sound and not a tin sound.
What do you recommend, the speakers are small and not to big to use in my vehicle. I don't like mounting them in my vehicle, they are set in places that they can't move around.
What skar box is best for 12 vxf @ 2 olm. Thanks for sharing, i learned
Great tips! @6:50 to be that guy - if you care, it's sili-cone (the goo), not sili-con (the crystal material/element).
4:55 that left brace is very close to the port opening on the inside. This can create a choke point and the tune will be off. You wanna have ATLEAST the width of the port of free space in front of the port opening, preferably more to be sure.
Also, if you have to reset your fence, use a piece that's already cut to size and place it against the blade and move the fence till the wood is touching the blade and fence.
🧠💪
I wouldn't use silicone to seal boxes. Wood glue or wood construction adhesive only.
Silicone sealants have solvents that offgas as it cures. The solvent fumes can soften the varnish on your coils when they get hot and cause premature failure.
You can use it, but wait a full day or more to put your subs in the box after building/sealing it. Then blow it out good first.
Good point! I should have mentioned that in the video. You absolutely need to let the silicone cure so you don't mess up your speakers.
PL Premium construction adhesive (regular 3x) is all I use to build boxes (and I build a lot of them). It expands as it cures to fill joints airtight (so has to be clamped or brad nailed to hold the boards in place or else the expansion will move them out of alignment). Your cuts can all be 1/8" (or larger) off and it'll bridge that gap no problem as it is very thick, solves all sorts of cutting sins. Use lots so you get good squeeze out on every joint and you'll be airtight. Don't clean up the squeeze out right away, you'll make a BIG mess. Instead, leave it and wait about 6-8 hours for it to set up but still not fully hard and then you can easily scrape the squeeze out off CLEANLY with a scraper or chisel or even a 2" drywall putty knife. If you get the timing right you'll have very clean looking joints. Don't wait too long or it'll become quite difficult to remove once it fully hardens. PL premium also creates as an incredibly strong joint after fully cured as it is a polyurethane adhesive. I build touring subwoofer boxes that are only held together by PL Premium, no screws or any other fasteners and these are 260 lb+ boxes that get tossed around on and off the truck after every show and they hold up no problem. Oh ya, wear gloves or your hands will be black for a week.
I could use some advice on building a 6x9 box with limited space available
I see a lot of people using plywood in videos now , I’ve always used MDF , but I’m in California so not much moisture in the air , is there some new data about Mdf vs plywood? Or is it still a preference or is it just a southern thing like Florida where the humidity is high the wood stays together?
It think it is just a style/preference thing and plywood is trendy now. BUT! Very few people are using real Baltic Birch. You can't just walk into Home Depot and buy that stuff.
I thought the mistake was not putting the port in the middle for 2 woofers. The pressure will be uneven.
I'm in Ghana and I want to learn how to make line arrays speakers. Any program online available?
I work at cabinet shop and Thank God for a panel saw.
Those are handy!
I need that jig for my circular saw!
They also have a track saw style jig: amzn.to/3YkV1Mt
Hey brother...your videos are very informative and helpful...thank you for the content...anyway you would be willing to mock up a dual sub enclosure with a slotted port in the center...subs and port front firing...thanks for the consideration
bit.ly/3IwIJLb
Good thing about the side port boxes is you can make a more narrow (less wide) box to fit a bigger box in the trunk. I could only fit a 4.5cf box in mine. It's front subs and port. But I think if I went w side port, I coulda fit a 5.0cf box?🤷♂️
Good point.
On those smaller Box builds you should be able to consider the height measurement 1st since most of the pieces We'll be that same measurement. Basically just making 1 or Is to full Length rips
Yep
dear friend need a help with a 10"x6.5"'x18" box. what is the suitable sub speaker size and amount for this, plz advise
Welcome back!
Don't call it a comeback, I've been here for years.
@@DIYAudioGuy alright LL
Solid advice! 👍👍
I am trying to build a double 10 audio pipe low bass subwoofer box how can you help me with measurement
There is always an option to give the needed measures of each part to someone who works with tablesaws😊.
This should be labeled as beginner's guide. I found this to all be common knowledge for woodworking that I learned in my first shop class back in 6th grade
True. I might change the title and thumbnail to reflect that, hopefully we can reach more people and save them some time, grief, and money.
The Trick to a circular saw straight cut by free hand is to move at a moderate fast pace while cutting. I do how ever use a metal ruler clamped for a guide if I'm cutting to do a top off line on say fence gate. 🙃
Show this video first when a shop cuts your wood !! 👍👍👍
box face and back should always cap encloser making the box strong for woofers... that is great advise... but.... port should always be on the same side as woofer....for best acoustic coupling... but the side is the next best choice... but take the extra time and try and put in on the front where the woofer is mounted...
👍
I prefer building my cabinets with box mitre router bits and rabbit edges , solid wood front baffles . I no longer need brad nails or screws whatsoever. You are spot on about precision cuts .
I've been experimenting with a dado blade and I've got one of those lock miter bits for the router. It's a little time consuming to set up and calibrate. When I get that mastered I'll make some videos on it.
Measure once. Cut several times. Meaning creep up on your perfect cut. Than you’ll have the perfect cut.
Teach people early on to use a router to cut circles its a real game changer
I don't disagree that the fewer number of cut setups possible is a good idea but I wouldn't prioritize it over structural integrity. For instance, on a double baffle. The inner baffle should always be an inside board, such that the sides, top and bottom attach to its end. Then the second baffle layer should overlay that such that it creates a herring boned joint on all sides of the double baffle. This creates a much stronger joint partly because it increases the surface area of the joint and partly because it creates both sheer and tensile stress on the joinery. When I build an enclosure, the top and bottom (or front and back) will be the same size and every other panel in the build will be the same dimension in one direction. And with center ports, you'll have two of each panel in both dimensions.
And there are more advantages to center ported enclosures. The center port creates a brace in the center of the enclosure, which is very important, but I see a lot of guys building enclosures with two subs in them and the port is all the way to one end or the other. You're throwing away a free center brace when you do that and, if you lose a sub while playing, it doesn't put as much stress on the one that's still playing.
If you have straight cuts and good wood glue there is NEVER a reason for caulk of any kind. But if you must, silicone is just about the worst thing you can use. Silicone sticks to nothing... not even itself. If you need caulk, use painters caulk. It doesn't stink, it's much easier to clean up and it actually bonds to wood.
And last, if you're using MDF, don't use screws. I won't even use them on plywood but it is especially important to avoid them with MDF because they will split the wood and weaken it. And the only way to avoid this splitting is to predrill the holes so large that the threads don't engage the material. I've built everything from simple computer speakers to 40kW SPL builds and I never use screws in the end of a panel. Also, keep any fastener 2" from the end of a panel. I know it seems like you're doing good by putting them all the way to the corner but all that really does is split the material in two directions. This comes from a manufacturer's instruction on MDF, not from my personal experience but only because I happened to read it in 1990 or so when I built my first enclosure from MDF. Before then we used particle board, which isn't fun to work with at all, lol.
Great advice.
Agreed! I plan on using dowels for mine.
Awesome video. I really appreciate you taking the time to make video’s like this one. I am in the process of putting together a stereo system and wanted to give building the box for the two subwoofers that I own. The box they’re in now is to shallow making the subwoofers to not seat. I also want the box to be the proper size for the particular subs that I have. Having said that I have two questions if you don’t mind giving me your advice I would really appreciate it. Now I have two JL Audio 10w6v3’s what wood do you recommend I use and do you recommend a sealed box or ported? Again any recommendations and advice to help me out with my journey I’d highly appreciate. Thanks
If you can afford JL then I recommend that you have a local shop build a custom box.
@@DIYAudioGuy I can afford to have a shop make it but I have been into car Audio since before I could even drive watching my older brothers. Now I’m 36 and building a box is something I have really been wanting to do for quite some time now. But thanks for your advice!
@@FpvDroneLife215 I totally get that. Best advice is to download winisd and do it all from scratch.
Hey mate, love your vids, I'm looking into building a sub box and I have a questions regarding Amplifier placement, I notice alot of the designs out there on the internet look like designs for passive speakers. If I were to add a plate amp to the Sub Box itself, do I need to take into account how much volume it takes up inside the box and adjust the box size accordingly? I've also considered a fake wall in the back to preserve the volume of the box however the box size is becoming impractical. 18" Driver and a dayton SPA1000 plate amp.
Yes, TOIDS DIY recommends partitioning off the enclosure so that the amp is in a separate chamber.
Do design for people that want to build their own enclosure?
bit.ly/3IwIJLb
Very nice video.
Thanks!
I find the easiest and most accurate way to cut wood for an enclosure is to let my hardware store do it. Most hardware or lumber yards where you buy wood from offer cutting services with equipment far more precise than what a typical homeowner has. Sometimes there's no extra charge to make the cuts.
Both Home Depot and Lowes in my area will do two cuts with their panel saw free of charge. The accuracy is entirely a function of the employee running the saw.
Noob question... do I subtract the volume of a pvc port from the volume of the enclosure the same as subtracting the displacement of the driver?
Yes! Make sure you use the outside diameter of the PVC.
@@DIYAudioGuy thank you!
You would be the greatest neighbor in the world especially bc I'm almost 50.#OldSchoolBump
Gotta love shop time when it's 30°F
Yep.
Its better than 120°F like summer here
I'm a pretty horrible box builder, LOL. For a number of reasons, including my eyesight. One thing I try not to do though is end up with a box design that results in a situation where, during glue-up time, a piece needs to be slid into place, rather than pressed into place, and when pressing a piece into place, I make sure to use enough wood glue to ensure that excess glue is pushed out from both sides of the edge that's being joined. Finally, I wipe the excess off from both sides of the edge with a damp cloth. This ensures a strong and airtight glue joint.
Is it possible to use to much glue?
Awesome computer software
Just throwing this out there for anyone willing to help. I've been trying to decide on what system i want in my car. The main problem im having is deciding on what size sub i want. Im between 2 12s and 2 15s both running 600w rms. The question i mainly have is what size and tuning frequency i should go for if i want a box to play low and still be musical. Any help or advice would be very appreciated.
The box is going to be quite large. 4. Cubic feet, perhaps larger with a pair of 12s, even larger with a pair of 15s.
@@DIYAudioGuy Any advice on tuning frequency?
What's the best subwoofer box build programme to use?
This: parts-express.sjv.io/do4Bg7
or
This: ruclips.net/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/видео.html
Planning on building a box for 2 Visaton FR8s to fit into a model tank. The space im working with is very tight, and the boxes will only be 1 1/2x the size of the speakers. Is there any benefits to port them? Or will I sealed box be easier?
It is hard to get loud and low bass out of a speaker that small, and out of a small enclosure. A port will help, but small boxes require very long ports. So either go sealed or look into using a passive radiator.
Has anyone ever noticed how this guy looks like Captain Spaulding?
Good tips.
Thanks for watching!
Literally built that exact box yesterday
Screws are not just for beginners. I've been building boxes for 25 years and I still use screws whenever possible.
What software do you use to design the subwoofer boxes
WinISD and Sketchup
Best way to cut without a table saw is a circular handsaw with a rail, festool, makita or milwaukee, any of them
Tracksaw
Your awesome man thank you,
Thanks for watching.
I should really get myself a circular saw all I've ever used is a jigsaw 😂
That might make life a lot easier.
Hi I have 8 6" speakers I have 4 mid-range and 4 vice and I want a make one box to accommodate all the speakers for my home system can you send me a diagram and measurement to build one thank you
You will need an internal crossover network for that. Those can be complicated so I charge quite a bit to design them. I recommend that you join TOIDS DIY forum, they can help.
Do make custom boxes ???
Please say you and have a way to order for me !!???
I do not, shipping is a big pain so I don't do it.
a wen track saw is the tool for this and the cost less than a circular saw and kreig guide, about $120. for breaking down sheet goods i think tracksaws are better than a table saw. in my old age I have realized the tracksaw is great for big things and the table saw is for small cuts.
A truck saw is a great tool.
If you have multiple cuts to make at the same length, cut them all to width at the same time while your saw is set up for that cut, you waste a lot of time setting up your machines and jigs.
Yes.
I want to add on to a sub box particularly not finished and I want to add length the the width can you possibly get your hands on a 350z 2003-2006 and make a custom build for it I could really use the help threw a video I'm a hands on kinda guy and I like your videos
I wish I could get my hands on one!
Awesome!
Thanks
I dont understand why everybody uses clamps on these box builds. Just get some thin screws, no drilling, it wont split with thin screws. You could throw a box together in less then an hour or a nailer works but most people dont have those.
nice video
Thanks
Just clamp a bubble level as your guide for the skill saw...
is the software you used free??
They offer a free version.