How to Insulate and Seal Rim Joists
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- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2017
- In just a couple of hours, you can seal and insulate your rim joists, which are major sources of heat loss in many homes. This project will help lower your heating costs and save you money. Insulating the rim joists is one of the best things you can do to make your home more energy efficient. And it’s easy, too, so anyone can do it.
Learn more about insulating basement rim joists here: www.familyhandyman.com/projec...
0:01 - 0:29 Insulating and Sealing Basement Rim Joists
0:30 - 0:36 Step #1: Measure Rims
0:37 - 1:03 Step #2: Rip the Strips
0:45 - 0:54 Step #3: Make a List of Widths of the Openings
0:55 - 1:02 Step #4: Cut the Strips to Size
1:03 - 1:13 Step #5: Caulk the Blocks
1:14 - 1:25 Step #6: Seal with Spray Foam
1:26 - 1:32 Step #7: Add More R Value
#familyhandyman #howto #diy #rimjoists #joists
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Хобби
You explained in 60 seconds what every other video tries to do in 10 minutes
Right! He was quick and got to the point quickly.
Those that know, do and tell. Those that dont teach and talk endlessly about it.
If he were an Englishman, the video would have been 30 minutes long. I love the British but when you ask them the time, they tell you how to build a watch. They can't resist the urge to throw a few hundred adjectives into each paragraph 🙄.
Strong video. Gets to the point. The half inch tip is very useful.
For those who have negative comments, please provide a link to your video showing us all how to do it correctly.
One of the best ideas I've seen.
Thanks man !
Welp, this was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
I did this 35 years ago. Good video.
I cut my foam to fit tight, then sealed the edges with acoustic sealant. Then filled the remaining space with Roxul.
Thanks you made me see it’s worth doing in a Matter of a minute 😃
Also caulk the gap between the foundation and sill plate.
Thank you
So True, well worth it
My basement used to be cold in the winter I order some big jugs of spray foam I spray foam the sill down all the way down the wall 2 inches thick now my basement is 80 degrees in the winter and I save two tanks of oil in the winter. Great vidio. And a very inexpensive way to save a lot of heat
kenneth mckernan
What brand of spray foam did you use?
That's how I would do it.
@@davidjohnson4198 just by me doing twinges of star from the basement in the freezing cold I only use 7 gallons of oil instead of 12 ...3000 square foot house... can you imagine that's only from the basement being done I did the whole house like that I probably be down to 3 gallons
If you don't have a new construction house and are taking on a project here are somethings that might prevent a headache compared to very optimal example. If you only have a car, you can cut this stuff in the parking lot if you bring some sawhorses, straight edge, and ways to cut (hand jigsaw works really or multi-tool work faster than a razor blade). Figure out if you're going to have clearance space to use the spray foam bottle. I might recommend a 2 ft long spray foam gun if you need to get into tight spaces or find a way to extend a can with some tubing. Cut all the blocks first and put them up with foam board caulk before foaming since tubes clog if they aren't in use. Finally, don't worry about excess foam, cut it off later after it's hardened and wear gloves cause it will stick to your skin.
Messy job for sure, with cutting the foam and having the spray foam everywhere.
Have to do this a the mountain house. The mice tore out the fiberglass insulation. Next visit project. Thanks. Also, I need a suggestion on the cinder block. The holes show up through and next to the plate. Can I use the foam board there to keep cold air from coming up and in to the basement?
I had a problem. My basement rests on solid rock and one entire end of it is 3 feet above ground because my lot has a double slope to it. My basement was cold...and wet because moisture would go down into the clay and pool on the rock where it would seep into my basement. What did I do to solve these problems you ask ? I had a backhoe excavate all around the perimeter of the basement right down to the rock...and I called in a spray foam insulation company. They sprayed the outside from the rock beneath the footing right to the top of the plate on which the walls are built. And now ...my basement is one of the warmest rooms in my house...and completely dry. The cost? $2500 for the foam company, $1500 for the excavator to excavate and then re-fill...well worth it because it is a one piece ,waterproof, insulating barrier. Now my basement development is a lot easier because I don't have to worry about how much insulation I need...I could go with 2"x4" framing if I wanted to. I do caution however , that my house is small (less than 1200 sq feet) so if you thought about doing this you should keep that in mind.
Thanks for the video! What was the insulation foam you used? Went to get loctite and they said it was untested on the foam insulation boards and could give off hazardous fumes if it Chemically melts the foam board.
Interesting
My rim joist cubby holes extend 2 feet. At the bottom of each cubby hole is wood with no insulation on the othe side facing the ground outside. Do I put foam bird on the rim joist cubby floor too?
I did this two years ago. I had no insulation on the rim joist. In the winter air would pass over the rim joist and water would condense causing lots of mold. I cleaned up the mold with a deck sprayer with 10% bleach solution. Then sealed the rim joists like you did here. Problem solved and the basement smells a hell of a lot better.
One thing though. That insulation board is pretty expensive, cost me around $30 per 4"X8" sheet. Worth every penny for me because I think our health is worth it.
Mrdead Inmypocket No doubt, mold can cause serious health problems. Keep the space dry at all times, below 60% humidity, to prevent mold growth.
where did you manage to find it for $30/sheet???
Jack Jones mold never bothered nobody. I eat cheese with mold on it.
I went with 2" foam board. What's that 2x on top of the block wall? Oh, a sill plate! (My 1950s POS house has its joists right on the block wall foundation)
I had a problem applying the foam.There tips are too short so I put a polyurethane tube extension on the tip.Or you can buy a pro gun.Remember to foam the still plate
I live in the very furthest northern part of the country, and there is absolutely zero insulation anywhere in my basement. I’m think this would help lower energy costs.
What about deep rim joists that run about 2-3 feet deep.
Was considering same application for joist ends on a flat roof. Room is gutted and this sure looks better than batts only. Any comments are appreciated
I know this is very late, but using batts only allows moisture to move around. The board + foam creates an airseal, blocking all air and thus moisture flow.
@@RussellWaldrop it's never too late! Someone else might benefit. That's what I did, cut foam to fit the ends and then ran a bead of spray foam around and caulked the exterior. I agree with you, should keep moisture from penetrating better than batts only even with the exterior caulking. I'll let you know in about 20 years how it worked out.
Good video
When I’m doing a rim job I find the caulk makes a huge sticky mess unless I have a tight firm two handed grip on the caulk
Mad DeXXX
Lol sounds like you have a big problem there lol
Your directions were unclear.Grabbed caulk too tight and exploded.
Handyman is making a mess with caulk
If you have the cash, is spray foam better than this method? Or is it all about the same, just more time cutting the insulation?
this is a fraction of the cost of spray foam truck, done right same or very similar
result
It's very much easier and faster to diy with a froth pack.
Leave off the batten insulation is traps moisture causing mold. Use EPS foam board, it allows moisture through not trapping it when condensation forms, which promotes mold in environments over 60% humidity.
The caulking to stick the board in place is a nice tip. But no talk of fire code.
Great stuff works just as great as an adhesive for foam boards
Yeah, I was wondering if the fiberglass batts meet the fire code for installation xps foam.
Apparently that foam board stuff burns REALLY toxic. To do this correctly, the expectation should be that the living space is seperated with Drywall. Alternatively, throw the Fiberglass in the trash and stuff the cavities with Roxul.
@Ross Sandelius What kind of caulk would I use? I'm literally about to install this at my rim joists, AND i'm in Michigan!
Hot_Food
Is a caulk that is safe for foam. Some adhesives/caulk can melt rigid foam.
I've been wanting to do this but have been hesitant because of the desire to inspect the rim joist for termites. Wondering if I might use a rubber sealing gasket around the foam insulation so I could remove it later for inspection?
Seal the joints of the rim joist first, with a quality, non-cracking caulking and then add batting, making sure to install correctly. If the batting has craft paper, carefully remove and discard the paper.
Tim Everitt
They make a peelable clear caulk which would allow you to peel that off and and remove the insulation. Home Depot carries it.
What do you do when there's a joist parallel to the rim joist with only a small gap between the bottom of that joist and the top of the foundation? For my house, that gap is maybe an inch or so thick, so rigid foam board in there would be a tight fit (my local building code says I need R-19 or higher on the rim joists).
Spray foam it
Closed cell spray foam
Bubble gum
large gap expanding foam
@@weldon9254 Big League Chew
Can I put 1/2" fire rated drywall squares over these to meet code? I don't want to finish my ceiling...
I would also like to know this! Any thoughts?
@@Titchimoto I plan on finishing my walls and then connecting on up and to the top of the joist.
What if you have a finished basement and the dirty home builder or crooked home inspector allowed the rim joist to not be insulated at all, and just have vapour barrier
the joist parallel with the rim joist is just really long and open. How can i seal that up when it's like 15 feet long? do i just cut a really long strip and fit that in?
Yes
How do you inspect for termites?
If you’re far enough north termites are the last of your worries 😅
My only issue with this is termite inspections from the inside of rim joist.
They will have to remove a section for the inspection
Can you just leave the rigid board or do you have to add the Batt?
If you have extra/existing batt like in the video , use it. If not, the results after time and $ spent retrofitting after doing foam board is probably negligible so most skip that step.
If you want to paint the open ceiling don't put the soft installation over the rigid installation, use spray foam, cut, primer and paint it.
The theory is somewhat sound in that gaps=drafts. The prob is that you will spend money you don't need to to fill gaps that are not there. If you see a gap, fill it with foam - simple. If the place is cold or if there IS drafts then take the next step and insulate/seal more. However, its more likely to be around doors and windows so start with them.
@Crack Shot Care to elaborate? The single word response doesn't tell me if you disagree with me or my theory! 🤔
@@ayl3166 Rim joist is one of the top offenders for air intrusion, this is why many states offer programs for discounts on this service. It's often the most exposed part of the house with the only thing between it and the outside air is thin sheathing. The block -> sill plate -> rim joist components do not make an effective air seal alone. This is a common building technique nearly guaranteed to pay for itself.
There are several white papers using extensive data to show that the rim joists leaks energy more than almost anywhere in the house. It’s not a matter of just looking for holes, you have to insulate them really well to avoid guaranteed energy loss and possible water damage.
ants and mice live here@@RaymondTusk74
I did just did this but may end up ripping it all out. A little research and it seems xps foam board is highly flammable and toxic. Maybe caulking, tyvek and comfortbat is the better way to go
It's only toxic if it's burning -- it doesn't off-gas anything. And you can fireblock it with rockwool. It's totally safe once it's installed.
Cover with rock wool if unfinished basement, or drywall in finished basement
isn't it funny how the guys that do these rim joists don't have Crawlspaces' and there are no nails or screws sticking out of all the spaces, like MINE. And i only have a 30 foot by 30 foot crawlspace to do.
I heat with wood stove. We actually have to leave doors and windows open or you'll bake.
Same here. In January my front door is wide open.
Teach me
How much room is needed to do this? I have much shelving in the basement, some attached to the wall. Do i need to move all of it?
Hope you found someone to hold your hand through the process within the last 5 years.
I was told xps 2 " board is against michigan fire code ..was gonna glue on the block
Yes very bad fumes emitted in fires. Cover xps with drywall for fire-retardant effect or cover wall with vapor barrier paint or film then use rockwool pads for insulation.
Ask the building official. Not a contractor to make sure.
This method appears to be much better than trying to use sheets of poly to seal the cavity. Losing 1/4 of home's heat. Seriously? Seal the air gaps on the outside! Air sealing belongs on the outside. Interior vapor barrier is only helpful for.... vapor, not air, and most important in cold climates, less so in moderate climates.
It's much harder to air seal on the outside after the home is built
6 years ago oh ok... I cut mine 9 1/4 x 14 x 1 then I foamed around the board. then added batt insulation no paper 3 1/32 thenI split another bat 1/2 to 1" for a total of 4" then I added another foam board ( 9 1/2 x 14 x 1 1/2) but foamed the cement block to the 1 1/2 foam board.. Because this is where mice, Ants and moisture live... its the foundation (cement block ) to the cap that is 99 % of the problem..Over kill yes. Need to inspect, just look to see if the seal is broken. Then easy rip it out check and replace a new one. (I wonder if the last part could be PVC shining 8 mil????) but that might cause moisture????
Do you need to add a vapour barrier to cover the batt with this method?
No. The pink Board acts as 1 vapor barrier. If you added a 2nd one to the batt, you could get mold growth between
I read that xps insulation board at least 1.5" thick works as vapor barrier
Yes
Because the condensation will happen between the fiberglass insulation and foam insulation when doing it like in this vid...
Either eliminate the fiberglass insulation or add a vapour barrier over both types of insulation.
Yes, do not follow the advice in this video
@@splash5974 It should be ok, it can dry in either direction of the rim joist plus this foam board didnt appear to have the plastic wrap so it is vapor open
I would silicone caulk the rim joist first.
I build houses for a living you can buy latex foam in a kit that mixes under pressure and seal the headers in a tenth of the time instead of doing it this way.
Is it 10x expensive?
Does foam tape work for this? Or only spray foam? If I skip the spray foam, I could plastic the inside of the insulation.
What's the point of the rigid foam pieces?
Insulation + vapor barrier
@@percyfaith11 Just foaming the joints would take care of 90% of the issue. I suppose adding the rigid foam pieces takes care of most of the other 10%, but foaming the joints alone would offer the most bang for the buck.
@@Cotronixco LOL that takes care of air leaks but does nothing for insulation. The foam board itself is both air barrier and insulation so it stops moisture from condensing on the wooden rim joist. That's 90% of the problem, not 10. Wouldn't you rather waste some energy than have your rim joist rot?
@@percyfaith11 You didn't notice that he put the fiberglass back up?
@@Cotronixco Sure I did. What's your question? He stated the reason for it.
Great....my rim joists are like 4 feet deep.
Probably easier to spray
Not to building code in some areas (at least not in my area) so, check your codes first before doing this.
If used as shown, this foam must me covered by drywall and can not be left exposed.
Reason: this foam is very toxic when smoldering in a fire.
Well, one would say you're not exactly in the home anymore once it catches on fire, and for your basement rim joists to be on fire, it's definitely considered a loss and insurance covers it all.
@@hot_food11 you may not be around to collect the insurance coverage...the fumes/toxin would incapacitate you quicker than you think...you may not even make it to the door to escape (especially in the night). Read up on how little time it takes to incapacitate a human my toxic fumes, you will be surprised.
@@DeeInTheHouse you are right, I know it's nasty. I wish it wasn't! Our inspector told us if we want to use it, to find a low flame spread one that won't emit it but.. does it really exist? Would sprayfoam be different?
@@hot_food11 Not sure where you live (codes) but it is always good practice/code (again depending on location/country) to use an ignition and thermal barrier, this can be 5/8 drywall but most houses already have 1/2 drywall ceiling (...so 30 min. vs. 1 hr. rating). Polyurethane has some tendency to off-gas BUT worse is uncured polyurethane that can cause breathing problems such as asthma...that's why it's always recommended to get a professional to spray foam insulate...risk is there for the DIY'er with box store spray foam kits. Rarely but, after testing cores, even pros have to redo spray foam applications if it is determined that the is "pudding" in the middle.
Umm won't your smoke alarm go off. But code is code.
Good idea. I will do this in my basement. But why do you spend so much money on glue and spray foam.. just cut the foam board 1/4 bigger on one side and top or bottom... and have a tight fit. My basement is 2k sq ft..
Cant get a perfect airtight fit that way. The little bit extra will go a long way
Does putting the fiberglass back over the foam board meet code that requires a fire retardant over foam board? Can’t seem to get an answer here in S.C.
Nope. Fiberglass insulation is not a fire retardant, it will just melt when in contact with fire. You need something like 1/2 drywall over your foam board.
Jpdst29 thank you! I didn’t think so but always try not to just assume! Not fishing the ceiling so it’s been a bit confusing figuring out how to seal the rem joist and seal plate when I have it sitting on a cinder block foundation. With the seal plate sticking out and then half the block, I have a stair effect, I guess is the best way to describe it? Seams easy enough to get the foam board in, but the fire retardant has me puzzled! Again thanks for your reply and a God Bless!
Fuck codes
Heat/hit air travels up. How much heat can you really lose in the crawlspace/basement?
He said 25%
Or better you can spray foam it, much easier..but more expensive. But thats the best! Rigid foam and spray foam will cause mould to grow in behind the rigid insulation
I honestly dont think it will cause any issues as the ridged foam boards prevents the inside air from coming in contact with the outside air...
@@plouffe.yeah there’s no issue lmao also spray foam being “easier” is subjective. Anyone can cut foam and spray can foam in. Not everyone will suit up for a 2 part spray foam job
How bout sandwiching the insulation with more hard insulation
WHAT IS GOING ON RUclips ALGORYTHM WHAT IS GOING ON
MrSafa61 what is going on?
Since it doesn't look like you are actually putting the foam in the perimeter crack you purposely left, it would be better to cut pieces for a pressure fit instead of leaving an empty space all around each foam piece. That's a lot of air space that is only held back by a little caulk.
That's what I did for my basement. Took extra time though. I used a rubber mallet and 6x8x1 inch board to tap in foam board pieces that were slightly too large
Not code in my state, can't leave that exposed.
You can't leave the foam exposed, but if you cap the bay with Roxul then you will meet code. They might meet code, with the fiberglass.
Don't put the fiberglass back. He just caused a condensate problem. Vapor barrier in cold climate goes on the warm side. He just trapped the moisture in the wall.
It should be ok, it can dry in either direction of the rim joist plus this foam board didnt appear to have the plastic wrap so it is vapor open
Xps foam at 1.5 inches should be safe for most climates to keep the inside surface temp above dew point. If your in a cold climate maybe have 2 inches of foam. The biggest thing will be making sure of an airtight seal in each bay.
@@FixthisCD
No it is closed cell foam.
Would it be safer to double up the foam board rather than use fiberglass?
This is not correct. If you're using 2 inches or greater of XPS foam it also serves as a vapor barrier. Insulation on the interior side will stay dry and help insulate the joist better.
While this may be a good thing to do, are you aware that a cement block wall has an R-value less than a single pane of glass 1/16" thick.
You should insilate your cement block then
Well, concrete block, really
great video and accurite. im in the business. I know exactly what to cut normal joists, but this guy gets the measurement of each one and thats the best way. but a common joist is 15 X 8 but you have to cut it less so it will fit and then allow foam. Im doing one now that i havent been to. the owner bought the house unseen too. it has the pre-manufactured truss-type floor joists. im looking for the size. i guesss i better measure them monday. ive done them before and I think they are 12 inches in height Aand i fogot the width. sure would be nice to pre-cut them anybody know the dimensions?
There’s no header above that window
Wow, you're right. Is there any chance those glass blocks are approved in a load bearing application? As practical matter I imagine they are really strong,
the rim joist is the header
@@user-kh8sf7oc3t Thanks, that seems right. As a practical matter, this looks like a more than strong enough solution. But as an engineering matter it means that the rim joist spans 48 inches and carries the load of two floor joists. I suspect that if you took out the sill plate and the glass blocks there might be a bit of flex in the floor which might be noticeable and even if wasn't noticeable it might make it so that the flex might exceed what is acceptable for a tile floor. As it is those glass blocks are going to make it way stiff enough for all purposes. What do you think?
Dave Kirkeby where do you see 48”?
@@woohunter1 The span between a joist that supports the rim joist is supported on the left and where a joist that supports the rim joist on the right was three joist spacings. I assumed 16 inches on center. As a practical matter the joist is also supported by the sill plate and the glass blocks below that and that is certainly going to make for very little flex in the floor. However, as an engineering matter I'm not sure that either the glass blocks or the sill plate would be counted to determine if there was adequate support for the joists. Caveat: I am not a structural engineer and I don't have professional knowledge about this.
More information for people who have never built anything and want to go to Lowe's
So whats your suggestion
@@JRJS6802 the first thing that I would do is a title 24 energy efficiency evaluation. Then I would compare the potential energy efficiency and cost of that energy to the cost of my time and the cost of the insulation. Regardless your question is a "question begging epitat". There is no crime in making your home more efficient but this seems like sales fodder for big box stores and make believe do it yourselfers. I could be wrong that's simply my opinion and the video was done very well.
What happens if leak or termites? You would never know.
Shouldn’t vapour barrier and insulation be put on the OUTSIde of the rim joists? Putting a vapour barrier and insulation of the inside of the rim joists will trap moisture in the wood and create mould
I think this method should be fine seeing as that the ridged foam boards act as a vapor barrier which prevents the inside air from coming in contact with the outside air.
doesn't it make more sense to spray the foam first and then put the block in? Less mess, better seal.
Is it really a good idea to seal up every crack n crevice in a home? There are so many sources of toxic stuff that can develop at any moment; I always leave a window or two cracked all year round to vent the house anyway. I just think that's healthier. I'll pay the extra bucks on my heating and cooling bill.
Gotcha a meth lab there, Bobbo?? What toxic stuff develops at any moment enough to leave a window cracked during the winter? I crack a window when I cook sometimes, but if I’m heating or cooling it’s kept to a minimum.
Yeah gotta agree with Mitch. That's just weird unless all your building materials came from China or Chernobyl. But if you're not heating your home I guess it doesn't matter.
@Dirty Burger Yes, that's Bob to u. We're always farting around the house but that's what scented candles r for.
Super insulated houses usually always have an air exchange system in them for this exact reason. Bring fresh air in and remove the stale, contaminated air.
You right, US homes are built from pretty much cheapest materials out there - starting with MDF which is glue filled pressed wood, then all the insulation and foams which likely release VOC for decades.
Nope, call in a spray foam company.
lmfao!
Supposed to leave a gap for airflow and ventilation
I think it would make more sense to put the vapor barrier at the innermost part of the insulation stack - therefore, fiberglass should be placed BEHIND the foam board, not in front of it.
If your fiberglass batt has higher total R value than the foam board, you could have condensation between the fiberglass and foam.
Am I mistaken?
I could be wrong, but the problem with doing it this way is __trapping moisture__. That foam is NOT vapor permeable, so you will get condensation on that rim joist, and that will mean ROT down the road. (Yes, you'll get mold, but that's a minor issue, and sealed from indoor air, so not a problem.) You do not want that rim joist to rot, and moisture will get to it from the outside of the house and from the inside, depending on season and regional climate. If the wood gets wet, you want it to be able to dry out, and putting foam board on it will prevent it from drying.
If the joist can get wet from the outside, why cant it also dry from the outside? Just the inside has the foam
The foam board in theory is going to move the dew point on thermal gradient inwards, away from the joist, and ideally to inside the insulation where no condensation can happen. In theory.
Why worry about foaming? Just cut the foam snug. I use 2" foam and did all of the cavatives I could get to and left any insulation there with no problems. Then I bought a $60 deal of spray foam (DIY) and foam the areas giving me a thermal break and finishing off the problems. 20 years ago and so far no problems...
could just foam it all more expensive but way better
Congratulations. You've now totally sealed off an area that should be checked regularly for insect and water damage.
If it's sealed right you shouldn't have any bugs getting through. If you're getting water in there. You should probably check the siding
@@AlexMarkovRus That's a lot of ifs, and just because things are good today doesn't mean the will be good 5, 10 or 20 years from today. My point is if they are sealed this way, you won't notice a problem until something drastically bad happens.
With this logic you could say the same thing about the ceiling or walls in the livable space if your home. It's always possible to have moisture problems especially if he just used fiberglass batts up against the rim joist. But for the northern climates the vapor barrier and air seal are the best way to prevent heat loss and moisture trapping while insect damage is of less concern.
@@rickvess790 I would NEVER finish a basement with a permanent ceiling.
@@bobg5362 that makes you and me different. I want to do anything I possibly can to try to keep bugs from my living space. I have seen far too many spiders get through a drop ceiling. It sounds like you live your life with too many what ifs.
Cut the foam board a little bigger, then friction fit into the opening. Spray foam is unneccessary and messy. That stuff sticks to your skin like shit on a shoe
Gloves might help :)
I understand your comment is 3 years old but I still feel the need to respond incase anyone else sees this... Spray foaming the edges of the foam board once its inserted plays a key role in keeping the air from the outside from coming in contact with the air inside and vise versa. This is what creates a true "vapor barrier". This prevents moisture and mold from forming in the cavity. This seems to be everyones concern with this method. If done properly, you wont have moisture and mold problems.
@@plouffe.”doing it right” simply means cutting the board to appropriate size to leave a 1/2” gap around, foam said gap, and making sure foam board is touching the joist?
would of been cheaper just to put in vapor barrier
Easier to just have a company come in and use the proper foam spray all the way around. Just had a house built and that's what my builder did. Looks like a more air tight seal.
That is the best way to do it, but also the most expensive. Also, not a DIY type of project, so for those that want to trade time for money, this is the next best way to get the job done.
Whole basement needs foam and you missed whats above them
Don't do this. Mold will grow in the space between the wood and hard foam due to moisture trapped in there.
goosecouple absolutely correct. In moving to a more sealed and higher insulated home the vapour barrier should be continuous on the inner plane of the studs. Joists should be hung, with any vcl penetrations sealed. He didn’t even say use vcl faced insulation and closed cell foam.
A little mold never hurt anyone
Gene Friedman if it’s black mould it’s highly hazardous because it can grow in people’s lungs, spread by it’s spores. Various types of rot can also establish in the moisture.
If you do it correctly there won't be any moisture trapped in there. Condensation is created when warm air from inside the structure contacts the cold surface of the wall. Depending on what climate zone you live in will determine the amount (thickness) of foam insulation against a wall to eliminate condensation from forming on a wall. These days, rim joist insulation is required by most building codes.
2 inches of xps is a vapor barrier, so if you have moisture on your rim joist, then you've got a bigger problem with a leak in your wall above from a hole, or leaky roof, or plumbing.
If Americans stop buying products that have been raised to ASTRONOMICAL prices for no logical reason, the prices will go back down!! Please pass this message on!!!
If you hire a real contractor, you won't have to worry about this in the first place.
In contrast to a fake one??? Dumb-ass
LOL, a "real" contractor built it that way to begin with.
A "real contractor" built my house some 60 years ago. 😂
CHILDISH SPRAY FOAM JOB, what a joke, this dudes supposed to be a professional
That hair is not fooling anyone