Vapor Barriers: Need one or not?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Vapor Barriers - When to use them, & when to NOT.. On this special edition of the Build Show Matt takes us on a guided tour through the ins and outs of Vapor Barriers from the studio (Building Science Layer)
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Excellent format, including referencing published articles from knowledgeable sources.
Good one Matt . . . From across the pond . What you have just described is exactly what I have understood for some time now . It amazes me just how many Builders & in particular , Building Inspectors over here just don't seem able to grasp this concept . A bit of physics and common sense goes a long way . . . Great information & videos . . . . Keep them coming & thanks .
Best content yet Matt!!! Thank you.
Learned more in your videos in 30 min than all the DIY videos put together thanks!!
I have been researching this for a few weeks and this man just solved all my problems in 8 minutes. Thank you!
Thank you for all the great ideas and the educational support you provide. Have a good day.
I love that u address building strategies vary greatly in different parts of the country !! So many DIY channels dont say where they are located. They are only telling people 1 way to do a project and that may not be the best way given location of viewer...
Loved this format. Very informative, easy to follow along, and awesome seeing examples from different sources with you talking through them. Do more of these! Thanks Matt!
What about cold climates and any need to vapor barrier a foundation wall (zone 5/6)? We typically place ridged foam directly on the wall (concrete) for both a vapor barrier and to provide some insulation R-value. The rim joists (above the concrete) are usually batted with fiberglass. The seams are taped to seal and sometimes the top and bottoms where they meet the wall are spray foamed. The usual minimum is 1/2 to 3/4", but some go upwards of 2-3" or more if you can fit it in. My basement is not finished living space, but has a workshop, laundry and storage. I went with 3/4" ridged foam on the concrete as a vapor barrier (held by adhesive), that was painted with UGL DryLok before hand, and the studs them built out from it with no fiberglass batts (I could add later if it becomes living space).
Loved the video - there seems to be a lot of nonsense regarding vapour barriers - I love the comment "the reason you might want to install one is to keep the building inspector happy". Living in cold n wet UK. I've regularly lined the coldd face of interior summer house walks with thick damp course plastic, packed with insulation then merrily clad. Some of them have been up for decades now and not a hint of a problem even when they have had hot tubs installed! I personally think adequate ventilation is the key and my humble plastic sheet functions as a wind barrier which combined with the packed loft roll limits air flow!
Nice video. My understanding is that water vapor, like heat, moves from hot to cold. If the water vaper then reaches a sufficiently cooler surface, it condenses and accumulates, you will have issues, as shown at 6:10 of your video. With that being said, the picture at 1:22 makes no sense to me. The exterior cool air does not have much capability to hold water, so it's absolute humidity is low. However, the warmer interior will most likely be much more humid. So the warm humid air wants to move from hot to cold, condensing, and if cold enough, freezing on the INTERIOR side of the vapor barrier. Now, if we are dealing with a hot, humid climate where the interior is typically much cooler than the exterior, and if the wall is "vapor open", then any hot humid air that reaches the vapor barrier or vapor stop that is installed inside will condense on the exterior facing side of that vapor barrier, as shown at 6:24 of the video.
In Canada it is recommended to have a vapour barrier with insulation 2/3 on outside and 1/3 inside. Rim joists or concrete should have R10 rigid insulation on outside to prevent cold from being transferred through the structure.
This exact thing that happened to my sheet rock. It was suggested to us to use plastic before putting on the sheet rock. Well another builder told us after the fact that they said that having a double vapor barrier on a wall would cause condensation and could cause mold or rot to the sheet rock. I used 5/8" fire shield on the walls that were facing the walls on the outside. I moved out of that house after a couple of years into another home. Someone else bought it and they put the house up for sale. I contacted the realtor that was listing that home just so I could look inside as it was empty for a couple of years and I wanted to see what condition it was in. The room that we remodeled had black (looked like mold) that came through the sheet rock. I was surprised! didn't know if it was caused from the house having any heat on for a couple of years or that it was in fact caused by the plastic sheeting? I live up North.
Great video!! Thanks for the info. Very helpful! Really liked the format too. The articles and diagrams were very helpful. Enjoy all your vids and the resources you site.
Thanks for using a little science to explain where the moisture comes from (inside homes in the colder climates) and what makes it condense (cold). Now I can debug problems and confront my builder.
Thanks, very informative, I have been trying to work this out for a while (Im in the UK). Will leave out the internal vapour barrier..
Good job Matt, I've wondered about this subject. Keep it go'in.
Greta topic. Thank you for pointing out the sources. I have more to read on a topic that's been debated around my circle in NY for a while.
Matt, this video is excellent. A pleasure to watch, very well explained ( like always) and contains a lot of great information.
I really appreciate your guidance, and the time you spent making this video.
Best Regards,
Peter
The exterior of my CBS home, in Florida, is painted with an elastomeric paint to keep the moisture out of the block and the glass batts in the attic have the craft paper facing up.
I live in NH and was always told to use a plastic barrier. Very interesting video.
open your windows on either end of your house on nice days, not only do you get the be benefit of fresh air but it might help with humidity . it's the same thing when turning on the exhaust fan in the bathroom while showering, makes a huge difference.
Good format and useful information. I encourage you to do more videos like this.
Currently insulating a newly framed room in my detached garage…thank you! 🤘🏻
I did drywall a number of years back in the late 70s. Too often the supplier would send stacks of sheetrock that was wet and moldy. The choice we were given is put it up or don't work. In the Carter years you were lucky to have any work. A lot of moldy brand new homes went up at that time.
Super geeky yes but much needed. Thanks for doin' this one sir.
I am planning a cottage build and want your thoughts on my plan. Post and beam with lathe and lime on the exterior. (leaving the beams exposed) An air gap on the interior and 2-inch foam board with another air gap and then Tyvek(permeable) on the interior walls. A 1/2 inch gap and then the walls covered in shiplap boards. The roof would have tar paper with 1-inch foam board and 2-inch strips over taped joints to give an air gap and covered with steel roofing. I haven't decided on what foam panels to use yet. The ceiling, I considered foam between rafters and lathe and lime coating. Or foam and some sort of material covering the ceiling and rafters. I am trying to bridge the gap between the building being able to breathe a bit and having a decent amount of insulation.
I do like this format, very informative. Lots of facts, well presented. Thanks!
Answered my own question. Bought rockwool today. Started installing it. No real gap to worry about.
In Provo, UT the inspectors are still requiring plastic over the insulation, except where there is concrete wall behind the insulation.
Great format, and very informative. I have always been against poly except for under slabs.
Confirms what I have been doing in Chicago for some time after hiring an insulation consultant to advise on one of my rehab projects of a 1893 home. Thanks! I like your format very much BTW.
Thank you for the tips. Much appreciated.
love this video type, can never get enough building science.
Great Video. I've spoken to numerous people here in Florida. Not one person gave me a decisive answer. (Not even the city inspector) I have block home and wanted to take out the plaster walls and put up sheetrock. Needed to know about vapor barriers. Thanks.
Thank you for this great content. My contractor is nearly finished with my post frame workshop. He installed plastic-faced insulation inside the metal siding and roof. When I fur out the interior walls and sheathe them, I plan to add more insulation. But the existing insulation would effectively be a vapor barrier in the middle of the wall. Should I do something to prevent it from trapping moisture? The workshop will be conditioned, though I don't foresee lots of moisture being generated inside (no shower, cooking, etc.). Should I slice through the plastic to allow moisture to pass through?
Excellent analysis
Thanks for the info. I was always confused about vapor barriers and I am in the same climate zone as you. Originally Lafayatte Louisiana which is subtropical. At present in northeast Texas which is temperate. So I am ordering the books which will be a handy addition to my library since I am an architectural designer with a 5 year degree.
Up north, I always install a vapor barrier on THE NORTH AND NORTHWEST side of the buildings. It's where the cold wind comes from.
Thanks Matt, love your format it's very helpful.
In Canada, ALL THE TIME
Yes. But not in the US
how about seattle?
Zone 6 would be the same weather as Alberta and Saskatchewan, and vapour barriers are used 100%. Dont see how a line on a map changes the weather where it "might be" used
audex, You just need a good roof :P
how about a hrv
Thank you for the video, not a builder but was researching for DIY..... I knew I seen this stuff on tv shows and there was a "right side and wrong side" to put it on, but honestly..... neither side made sense to me as my thought process was, your going to either trap moisture in the sheet rock or the insulation, so where do I want the mold to grow. Glad to hear I can just make sure the wall is sealed and be done with it... as in doing interior only jobs.
Hot / cold roofs need particular care because moist air rises and rot damage can occur near the ridge .
I live in wis . I've used plastic sheeting as vapor barrier and air barrier.however to eliminate condensation I built second wall,(cavity) insulated that.so there's drywall plastic, insulation, plastic , insulation. This seems to work .
Thanks... easy to follow and gives me some peace of mind with my 1940’s “stucco” money pit with block walls.
Hey Matt I’m currently building a new construction home and after watching some of your videos and others I decided to air seal and insulate my home myself. I have a vaulted great room area and I didn’t want to have to try and walk on that to blow cellulose and a local surplus store listed some R49 unfaced batts for 30$ a bag so I snagged some up for that portion of my attic. I live in climate zone 4 in central KY. If my ceiling is properly air sealed will the unfaced batts be okay?
Become. Only one person using that bedroom. My feeling is that insulation and ventilation is a much misunderstood subject in the building industry. Thank you for the video. By the way my 1908 house has ventilation in every room. They are called chimneys . Sorry to run over into two slots.
Very good video. Short and to the point. We are looking to build a house in east Texas for our retirement; drawing up the floor plan now. The question is, what if the inspector demands a vapor barrier, or some kind of barrier? Have to keep the inspector happy or no sign-off and no occupancy.
Thank you Matt! I live in Tyler, Texas and I am preparing to remove the styrofoam backed vinyl siding from my small early 80's lake house. I have the original siding and tar paper underneath. So glad I saw this, ordering a book for my area right now.
This is excellent, Matt. Thank you!
I think I'll be good. I'm doing a 130 year old house in PA. I'll be doing vynel on tyvek on shiplapped wood. Fiberglass Batts on most of the insulation, maybe closed cell above the sandstone foundation..
I wonder about using vapor barrier inside instead? I have this idea for an owner-builder small simple build in Florida. I want an overengineered steel frame with cross bracing, enough girts and strong enough to address any load and racking concerns. Then I want to screw in standing seam siding right over the frame (no sheathing no vapor barrier). By design allow the siding to have an escape for moisture on the bottom. On the inside Mineral wool up against the siding packed in. Over the frame on the inside a quality stick vapor barrier and tape job, followed by pine siding screwed into the metal frame. In Florida and will likely will need a structural engineer to do calculations , but will this pass ?
love this format. you made it really easy to understand. I'd like to hear more teachy stuff like this
I really like your job site videos, but I think this format worked quite well
A vapor barrier is not required when using Roxul. I spoke with their tech support and they confirmed it.
correction Rockwool
Matt, 2 questions for u:
1. U mention that air leaking into the wall cavity is the bigger problem. IMHO, the most likely place that will happen is in the gap between the drywall and the gang box of switches or outlets. How do I best seal that gap?
2. I’m in climate zone 4, Washington DC. I’ve hung faced insulation & if it is raining outside, had the paper facing get wet w/ condensation even before hanging drywall. This has freaked me out & made me think that I do need a plastic vapor barrier. What do u think?
thanx Matt very informative
What do you think of the Certainteed MemBrain product? (shown in one of your references as a "smart" retarder). It only allows moisture movement one-way. When updating my living room and laundry room, I used this product, and have liked the results thusfar (only 3 years in). For reference, I'm a little north of Dallas, TX, so zone 3. Hot/Humid in summers, Cold/Dry in winters; and a monsoon climate where spring is often very, very wet. My house is a typical 1971 ranch-style tract home. You can translate that as cheaply, cheaply (ok, shoddily) built, with some questionable products. Air sealing wasn't a thing back then--and that's one of the reasons I used the MemBrain. I don't really have the resources to pull the brick veneer off my house and replace the gypsum sheathing with something like Zip or even just add a housewrap. So as I update, I go down to the studs, seal the joints on the backside of the sheathing, upgrade the insulation from the mix-n-match kraft fiberglass I have found (it was done with scrap from other houses...I have found everything from R-3 to R-12 in the cavities...which are 24" o.c. 2x4). After sealing the sheathing as much as possible, I put in Rockwool batts. In 2 rooms I have then done the MemBrain product--more as additional air-movement insurance than vapor barrier (I did find evidence of significant moisture when I re-did the laundry room and master bathroom--which didn't even have and exhaust fan). Then drywall, seal between bottom sheet & slab w/ acoustic sealant, caulk all penetrations, etc. The wintertime difference in the living room was night and day...I could tell little difference between the house as-built and down to the studs in the middle of winter. Adding the rock-wool helped, but as soon as the MemBrain went on, I could heat easily. So far, so good...just wondering if I should continue that when I eventually get around to the kitchen.
Yea my dad uses water retardant paint in bathroom along with grey drywall forgive my ignorance to prevent moisture . Same for around the sinks any where around house.
Great information Matt caz I was going to put a vapor barrier. In an I live in the deep south. Keep up the good work ..an information. Thanks.
The worst cases I have seen have been having two vapor barriers in the interior. Use to be that six in faced fiberglass was used in the attic and people would add another layer of faced fiberglass batts to that space. Always ended up moldy. Also when folks used faced fiberglass on interior walls for sound deadening, especially in high humidity areas like bathrooms. One layer on outside walls or ceilings was correct but on interior walls it should be unfaced to allow the moisture to migrate and air to dry the interior of the walls. I just watched a video on RUclips of a family in Idaho building their own home making this mistake, but they won't listen to advice and are going ahead with it. They are sure it will be fine and maybe they will get away with it, but they also may get toxic mold and have an unlivable house in the end. I agree it may be best to have none, but for sure you should never have more than one.
Great video.Thanks matt. Hi from Indonesia
Great video!Very informative.Keepem coming.
Not a problem as long as air can not get behind your walls, but what about light switches and plugs? Wall ovens? Plumbing connections? These are notorious air leakage spots.
First off thank you Matt for your video on this. QUESTION: In-regards to the leakage issue threw a hole in drywall (at 4:18) How do you effectively seal around holes cut in drywall for electrical boxes?
Great job
You just answered so many questions I had.
Cold air can't hold a lot of humidity until you visit surrounding areas of Pittsburgh.
6:10 Is this necessarily proof that you should not have a barrier though? It seems that the barrier just decides where the condensation will be. An interior barrier will cause condensation on the outside of it in the summer and inside of it in the winter. An exterior barrier will do the same, but it's outside the drywall, studs, and OSB now. No barrier just means you will get the condensation buildup wherever the cold meets the heat, which will vary during the temperatures throughout the year. So, the vapor barrier really isn't preventing moisture in any way, but rather is just the stopping point. I think you will observe failures (mold) with either method. The condensation will be present on either side of your insulation if it's summer or winter, depending on if you have the barrier externally or internally. Seems like you would need BOTH an exterior AND interior vapor barrier to fight against condensation in summer AND winter. Ultimately I think the idea is to at least keep mold off your studs. You will likely get some mold SOMEWHERE, so at least restrict it to just inside the drywall or keep it in the rain screen. Thoughts?
Good format! It works.
Well, I live in Fairbanks Alaska so without a correctly installed vapor barrier homes can end up with cold air leaks and with ruined fiberglass and drywall as well as impressive fungus and mold growth in the walls. But if moisture problems come mostly from air infiltration is it possible to over do it and make a home dangerously airtight? I recall a builder from when I was a kid bragging that it was impossible to slam a door in his home because the rooms were so airtight. Looking back, I wonder if that might’ve caused other problems.
What about a walk out basement in North Texas? Does it only need the vapor barrier under the slab and on the outside of the dirt side walls?
Here in maine it is in fashion to finish with v match pine instead of sheetrock. I would imagine that in that case you need a vapor barrier? Unless you caulked every seam?
Wow this helped me like crazy 😜 thanks 🙏🏿
Great topic
Would you consider closed cell foam a vapor barrier, and not recommended for wall insulation? A lot of these flood damaged homes in the south are being sprayed with closed cell and I could imagine that the trapped moisture against the ext sheathing would cause rot with the vapor drive going inward and not being diffused into the foam.
Hey Matt, first off I love the videos and thanks for posting such great materials. I'm trying to do a major renovation on my house in Utah, and I thought that I had things figured out but now I'm wondering if I'm wrong. For my basement I was planning to have a closed cell insulation covering the foundation, then my frame construction would start an inch and a half away from the foundation wall. The closed cell insulation would slightly come into the framed portion, causing me to have about 2 inches of closed cell foam. Then I was planning to have the rest of the cavities filled in with blown cellulose, and finally a polyethylene barrier. From your video it seems like I should remove the polyethylene barrier, which means I need to replace the blown cellulose with something like roxul insulation but still keep the closed cell portion. On the exterior I was planning on having a liquid barrier, followed by Arroyo Drain Board that leads to a french drain, like your video (ruclips.net/video/r4GdEJal8KM/видео.html). Then on the above ground portion I was planning on using the zip system, like you showed on this video (ruclips.net/video/Mn5KaKu-tt0/видео.html). For the slab portion of the basement I was planning on having Delta-FL, followed by an inch of foam insulation, and then a sheet of osb (like in this video ruclips.net/video/BaTLu-9GO20/видео.html). Would you recommend something different? Sorry for the novel, but I was hoping to pick your brain.
Also I saw your video on the perfect wall (ruclips.net/video/hTwq-qUnr9I/видео.html) where you recommend having everything on the outside of the home. However, recently you seem to recommend insulation that is used on the inside of the house. Has this been shown to be a bad approach? Are these questions answered in the book you mention towards the end of the video...plus living in Utah we have hot summers, but cold winters...does this mean I get the mixed climate one or should I lean towards the cold one?
Bryce. Please watch this video on basement insulation. I think it's a good one.
ruclips.net/video/kwn0Vjw_ji0/видео.html
Fellow Utahn
Awesome video. Very nice job on it too by the way . So I have two questions number 1: So, right now I don't have any insulation in my attic, and you mentioned a paint that can go on the back of my drywall. Is that something I could use in my attic? I recently vacuumed out all of my my old insulation that's been there for about 40 years, and I was going to reinstall new fiberglass rolls into my attic. I'm In the Zone 3. But we live in an area that gets into the 100s in the summer and in 30s in the winter. I wasn't sure if I should have paper on the back of my fiberglass insulation. Question number 2: so that said, I'm using flat paint on my drywall for my ceiling ( which is a fairly porous paint) and a third of a quart of water in condensation still seems like a lot of moisture that could turn into mold overtime. Why should I not be concerned?
Our house, no vapor barrier. We've had to replace all the wood around our windows and we've had to replace a lot of siding. Believe me, we've been replacing with a vapor barrier and with cement based siding.
Thanks great info.
Keep the videos coming, i dig em
Remodeling a home in northern Maine (climate 7) and I just pulled out the most mold anyone had ever seen from a room that was entirely wrapped in poly. I had to gut the room down to studs and even replace most of the floor joists. Granted the prior owners had plumbing leaks and also wood paneling on the dry wall. TERRIBLE COMBO! I am only putting plastic on the ceiling after talking to the local contractors. And I am even on the fence about that. I want this room to BREATH!
Thank you very much for the information.
With a TPO fully insulated roof, with 12 inch joists with cedar plank ceiling , do we need any barrier or insulation? And if we put R- 15 rockwool batts, would air pollution be a problem with no barrier above the cedar ceiling?
Hey Matt. New to your page. Love the information you provide
So how do I reduce moisture in my basement in zone 5? It’s a split level house. Water works on the windows every winter. Constantly getting mold growth in kitchen, bathroom, and in heat pump vents (heat pump only recently put in so it’s not that). I have a dehumidifier on both levels. I was told to get new windows, then told to heat basement, then told a new roof would work. Guess what, all of that was done and still have tons of moisture. No actual water in basement. I’m broke now and my next step is to either find a way to stop humidity rising up into the house or insulate the attic better. Or will insulating the whole house better the answer? Or do I need even better windows or insulation around the windows? Or insulate the cellar ceiling? Or finish insulating the attached 2 car garage? So frustrating!
Sounds alot like my problem. I'm also in zone 5.... However, I've discovered that my problems are from having solid masonry walls. Would that be your case? (Brick veneer, cinderblock, and parged plaster interior. No insulation.) Sadly, I've got the same kind of issues it sounds like you have. Also, my attic is improperly insulated. The old batts up there are from the 40s and have a double vapor barrier. So that is contributing to my problem. I also had a leaky basement, and have taken measures to stop the leaks coming in. Little by little I hope to figure this thing out. -- I realize Matt is super busy and can't respond to all our comments, but hopefully you'll find answers from someone in the comment section. They used lime mortar in the bricks of my house, allowing it to breathe. But that seems to allow excess moisture in. Very frustrating indeed. Good luck to you.
@@SheenaRea Thanks for your response. The new roof is helping about 10 to 20 percent. Still have to run the dehumidifiers on both levels. I did finally realize that the curtains aren’t allowing enough air to get to the windows. I’m not sure how you can go without curtains? I guess I have to find a way to hang them further out, away from the windows. Every morning I open them up and have small fans in each room to dry the windows. That does help cut down on mold growing on the window edges. I wish I had ceiling fans. I bet that would make a big difference. But that would be a huge undertaking at this point and more money. I think you are right, my basement is unfinished cement. I’m sure that’s part of it. Cracks in cement do cause more moisture from what I’ve read. I’m wondering now if they make curtains that are better with moisture but still give you privacy. Good luck to you. Let me know if you ever figure it out. And I will do the same.
@@lbarc3376 Hmm LBarc, that's very interesting! Just wondering, are your gutters working good too? That was one of my problems. Gutters are up high, and I have to get the 20' ladder out (which I can't stand to do) to clean out debris. During moderate to heavy rains, if my gutters weren't clear, water would pour out alongside my house, going straight down the siding and bricks. Caused my windows to get way too drenched and too much condensation. This was happening for years because I didn't realize the importance of having clean gutters. And also, my problem happens to be on the NORTH side of the house, where it doesn't get sun. So if it's too shady, rainy, watery, etc. THERE'S too much dampness. And that was where my basement would leak, too. I've taken steps to slowly alleviate these problems, but on a budget, have been SLOWLY fixing. Since monitoring these issues, the moisture/mildew problem is 50% better. Also I have two very small dehumidifiers inside the two closets where the mildew used to be bad. I wish my house had big eaves to help the water stay off my building! It's a cape cod with gutters flush along the structure, a real pain!! (Wish I knew this before buying the house 26 years ago! LOL). Good luck. Yeah keep me posted if you have any more success! 🙂
@@SheenaRea No gutters. I don’t have any because I don’t want to have to clean them out. lol But doesn’t seem to affect the cellar. The split level is kinda up on a slight hill. The front yard is flat but sides start to slope down and then back yard really slopes. It’s all gradual but makes for good drainage. All my windows are the same moisture/wet. You would think that the front of the house would be dry because we get a ton of sun most of the day when it’s sunny. And my cellar is more humid than wet. Humid enough to cause mold though. So the dehumidifier helps. And the windows don’t get wet like the upstairs. Makes no sense. I definitely would have bought a different house/set up if I had it to do all over again. I also have 1 closet that can tend to get moist and did have a small amount of mold at one time, but keeping the closet (sliding doors) open about an inch or 2 stopped it. It never seems moist in there but needs air flow for some reason. Can’t explain where the moisture is coming from. Thanks for the tips though. The only thing that helps is the new roof, dehumidifiers on both levels, curtains kept all the way open, and a fan in each room blowing toward the windows. The windows dry within a couple hours so I can turn the fans off. The windows would be really wet all day if I didn’t open the curtains all the way. It would take at least 4 to 6 hours to dry. My electricity bill is $250 a month in the winter.
@@lbarc3376 Sounds like you have a good plan to maintain things. I feel the same way, kinda wish I hadn't bought this house, but it's "water under the bridge" so to speak. Probably the clay soil around my house holds too much dampness, and it lingers.🙂One thing I learned, to respect water and the potential damage it can do. Seems a big part of home ownership. Glad your system works. My utility bill is a little up there, but I have a wood-burning stove which helps defray costs during Winter. Keep on keeping on!! 👍
I like it do more of these
Great information. Great video !
Excellent
I want to insulate the floor of my heated shed. It has 3/4” pressure treated plywood on it. I want to put rigid insulation board with 16” on center strips of pressure treated plywood. Should I use a vapor barrier over the top of the insulation on the inside before I cover the insulation with plywood
Love your videos Matt.
I live in Houston Texas where it is quite humid. The problem is with an exterior bathroom wall that is built on 2 x 4's. There are sconces and a mirror attached to the wall with insulation and rock then the mirror. I am having a water drip below the mirror during the middle of the day when no one is showering. I have a high cfm bathroom exhaust and the air duct does not point at the mirror to make it cool. How should I solve the problem- put closed cell foam between the rock and exterior wall? Or air retardent?
Matt, just now finding you, but don't see a way to contact you so will leave a note. I am in Houston and want to insulate my garage so I can work in it during the warm months. It is drywalled with a rock exterior. Thinking of insulating the garage ceiling and the roof rafters to keep both spaces "tolerable". Based on this video it sounds as if non-surfaced bats will work in both places, but ensuring an air gap exists between the roof and the insulation. Am I correct?
So, what is the correct way to build when you have dry, cold winter and hot and humid summer? (-40 to 30 Celsius) Here in northern Europe we have vapor barriers all around the house on the inside. Everything is sealed tight.
So you put up the poly sheeting to pass the inspection. Then you pull it down before putting up the sheetrock right?
This was super helpful thanks!
Would you say a foiled substance would be the best resolution such as industrial-grade radiant guard. Could we go wrong wrapping the house in this inside and out
OK, I'm sold, NO vapor barriers! EXCEPT, how do we sell that to the inspector??? Just because Matt said so? Not any inspector I've ever met.
Good program. Good format. Thank you.
Thank you.