Thanks very much for this. I cleaned up and changed the freehub on a cheaper Mavic "Aksium Race" wheel. The rims are still okay but when the freehub got wobbly, like in the beginning of this video, I tightened up the freehub until eventually I cracked it! (A bike shop mechanic encouraged me to tighen the freehub - "look that has cured it", he said. He obviously did not know about the Mavic freehub problem). It was just the plastic bush and dirt. Now that have a replacement wheel wit a good freehub but worn rims I have just replaced the freehub on my old wheel. The only obvious difference between the Aksium and Kyrisium (? or whatever in this video) is that instead of a 10mm hex wrench (allen key) on the non drivetrain side one uses a 5mm allen key and 17mm spanner both on the drive train side. Alas however I went and used some thick oil that had seperated out of a tube of grease. I may have to do it again and use thinner oil now that I have read the comments. It only takes a few minutes. If the pawls stick shut when I get out of my saddle then I could crash. I have crashed when pedalling out of my seat just because I did not realise that I was in my lowest gear, and meeting little resistance tipped over.
Regarding the mineral oil that Mavic recommends... light mineral oil is what's supposed to be used but if all that you can find is medium weight, that will also work. But in regards to using Phil Tenacious Oil, I can say that it's too heavy and "sticky" (how's that for a technical term...) for the pawls and springs and using grease should be avoided. I hope that this helps.
I just did this for my '09 Ksyrium Elite. I can't believe how easy it was. Except i was surprised to find out that it only took a 5mm hex wrench on each side, and after forcing the non-drive side end cap off, I discovered it wasn't even supposed to come off and had a hard time forcing it back on. I also had to use Phil Wood Tenacious oil because I couldn't find any Pedros Road rage anywhere, not even online. Is it no longer available? Anyways, my freehub is so much quieter now. :-)
hey man again this is a great vid, however i have standard 700c double wall rim wheel and im having the same problem, there's play in the hub. How would I overhaul this type of hub?
Hi , I have mavic ksyrium wheels and a big problem with the hub , after I oil the freehub and service it , I took them out for a spin and only after 10 min sometimes 5! , the hub start jamming and even locking, it’s becoming a fixie bike and getting chain slack that gets between the wheels, I would really thank you or anybody if it could give me some of ur wisdom and experience and thank you
Hello! Did you reassemble it correctly? What you are experiencing sometimes is caused if the spacer that sits between the outermost hub bearing and the freehub body is left out during reassembly or if the pawl springs are not seated properly. Is it safe to assume that all of the components of the hub are in good condition? I hope that this helps! -John
Thanks! Yes, Q-tips are very handy! Yes, it's the wear of the bushing and potentially the journal on the nose that contribute to play in the free hub body.
this video is gold now , glad you did it
Oh gosh, that 10mm had me stumped--thank you!! Also, I am still using your shim kit on my old (but beautiful) UltraTorque cranks--15 (?) years later.
Thanks for your comments! Yes, the 10mm is definitely not obvious...Thanks for your business and for your kind words! -John
Thanks very much for this. I cleaned up and changed the freehub on a cheaper Mavic "Aksium Race" wheel. The rims are still okay but when the freehub got wobbly, like in the beginning of this video, I tightened up the freehub until eventually I cracked it! (A bike shop mechanic encouraged me to tighen the freehub - "look that has cured it", he said. He obviously did not know about the Mavic freehub problem). It was just the plastic bush and dirt. Now that have a replacement wheel wit a good freehub but worn rims I have just replaced the freehub on my old wheel.
The only obvious difference between the Aksium and Kyrisium (? or whatever in this video) is that instead of a 10mm hex wrench (allen key) on the non drivetrain side one uses a 5mm allen key and 17mm spanner both on the drive train side.
Alas however I went and used some thick oil that had seperated out of a tube of grease. I may have to do it again and use thinner oil now that I have read the comments. It only takes a few minutes.
If the pawls stick shut when I get out of my saddle then I could crash. I have crashed when pedalling out of my seat just because I did not realise that I was in my lowest gear, and meeting little resistance tipped over.
Great video on the Mavic Freehub Maintenance including the seal installation that wasn't too clear on the earlier RUclips. Thanks!!
Fantastic video. Shows exactly how to clean and lube a Mavic freewheel hub. Nice!
Thanks for all of the kind words folks. I'm glad that I can help.
Very helpful video. I was able to clean my wheel perfectly thanks to the RogueMechanic!
Nicely done...thanks for all you do!
Regarding the mineral oil that Mavic recommends... light mineral oil is what's supposed to be used but if all that you can find is medium weight, that will also work. But in regards to using Phil Tenacious Oil, I can say that it's too heavy and "sticky" (how's that for a technical term...) for the pawls and springs and using grease should be avoided. I hope that this helps.
I saw a guy using shimano hydro brake mineral oil in a rebuild.. good point on the grease though..)/*
Brilliant, thank you. Now o try and find a replacement for Pedro's Road Rage..!
The video was very helpful. Off topic but where can I buy that squirt bottle you used. Much thanks
Why mineral oil? What's wrong with some good old Phils waterproof grease?
Good job! Would this procedure also apply to the new 2015 Mavic Ksyrium Pro Disc wheel?
Thanks.
I just did this for my '09 Ksyrium Elite. I can't believe how easy it was. Except i was surprised to find out that it only took a 5mm hex wrench on each side, and after forcing the non-drive side end cap off, I discovered it wasn't even supposed to come off and had a hard time forcing it back on. I also had to use Phil Wood Tenacious oil because I couldn't find any Pedros Road rage anywhere, not even online. Is it no longer available? Anyways, my freehub is so much quieter now. :-)
hey man again this is a great vid, however i have standard 700c double wall rim wheel and im having the same problem, there's play in the hub. How would I overhaul this type of hub?
Hi John, do you know if I can simply switch out a campagnolo free hub body on a mavic hub to a shimano freehub body on a shimano hub?
Top man thanks!
Hi , I have mavic ksyrium wheels and a big problem with the hub , after I oil the freehub and service it , I took them out for a spin and only after 10 min sometimes 5! , the hub start jamming and even locking, it’s becoming a fixie bike and getting chain slack that gets between the wheels, I would really thank you or anybody if it could give me some of ur wisdom and experience and thank you
Hello!
Did you reassemble it correctly? What you are experiencing sometimes is caused if the spacer that sits between the outermost hub bearing and the freehub body is left out during reassembly or if the pawl springs are not seated properly. Is it safe to assume that all of the components of the hub are in good condition? I hope that this helps! -John
Q-tips, the unsung heros of bike mechaniching..)/*
Nice vid.. so.. that yellow bushing I.D. and hub nose O.D. control the play in the freehub, eh?
Thanks! Yes, Q-tips are very handy! Yes, it's the wear of the bushing and potentially the journal on the nose that contribute to play in the free hub body.