Very useful video mate, thank you. Did this to my Disco this morning along with the turbo waste gate module bypass and she's running heaps better. Great work!
Thanks for the feedback and you're most welcome. I've been testing other things out which I'll share soon enough, just making sure they are worth doing first :)
Hey mate. Just wanted you to know that I just did this on my 2002 Disco 2 TD5 and it made a huge difference! It's a totally different truck! The ECUs sputtered a bit when I first started and tried it then they sorted themselves out. She's got crazy acceleration now compare to what it was. And the MAF was working! Thanks so much for this tip! I also shortened the waste gate arm a couple threads so it runs a little more boost.
thank for the tips mate ! I tried yesterday on mine and I fail the first time I put it on the wrong one and my car did not want it to accelerate, but fix it and find the correct one and now its working, thank you lot 😄
My Disco 2 actually pulls pretty hard (I did shorten the waste-gate actuator rod back from 11 to 9 threads showing), so I guess the MAF is functioning as designed... I might connect the two wires with a quick connector between them for when my MAF does give up... When towing I could bypass the MAF to get more torque... like you I'm not looking to spend big dollars on the old dog... mine is a 2000 model manual as well... cheers for the tip : )
Dino mate ! You are brilliant ! I am going to try that in few days as I am no expert on vehicles. Last night I bought Disco 2 2002 SE 2.5L Td5 4sp auto with 220k on it. It has Max torque =315Nm I own a 2016 Kia Sportage Platinum 2L diesel also. It has Max torque = 400Nm I was wondering what makes the Kia's pickup so fast compared to Disco 2 and what could be done to increase the pickup of Disco 2. Your simple solution is one big change to the pickup of td5.
Hey mate, glad to see you’re interested in getting your hands dirty on a disco👍 The biggest reasons for the difference in performance between the two is nearly 20 years of development as the Td5 was developed in the 90’s, vehicle weight, transmission gearing and the fact that the Td5 is softly tuned. It’s easy to push them out past the 200hp mark with an ecu chip/flash which also comes with a huge torque increase. If you’re running taller/bigger tyres than standard this will also have a large affect on acceleration. If you do you’ll need to lower the final drive ratio to offset them. This Maf mod or hack will make a big difference ‘if’ your existing Mad is not working properly, often pick up drivability lower in the rev range and off boost.
Good Day mate , You are a legend, thank you for your time to make this great video,, mate I done it on my Td5 disco 2000 and soon I start engine up the NanoCom shows me a 1,7 Faulty Air Flow circuit low , as we know what we done so is that normal try deleting it it keep in there ? Any ideas Cheers Matt
Did this mod over a year ago now as my maff was dead and car would barely move till 2000rpm even when 4wding you couldn't bump or try hitting a hill with more speed by using 2nd low as she would just stall unless you were well above the 2000rpm Now I just idle up everything in first low as the big increase on power also tents to smoke a little and get the odd puff of un burnt fuel so mates tell me but she had 360k on her now and still going strong with 18 psi boost to add
I did it too. It's still no cannonball, but I've got a better response from zero, that's for sure, much less lag. And good I did it: I just realized that I had quiet a bit of oil or other fluid on the ECU and in the lower plug, no idea how that got there.
It just sorts out that nasty lag between idle and turbo kicking in. The oil is tracking down the wiring loom that enters the engine to control the injectors. The cable acts like a hose and the oil flows down into the ecu plug.
Having some dramas with finding the tps wire on the ecu. Pulled off the plugs and used a testlight / multimeter to find the wire with the voltage differences. And I was unable to source the wire from the pedal Do you have a wire diagram? ITs for a Td5 15p engine
Hey mate, should be a white coloured wite trace. Currently watching my hot neighbour give my missus a lap dance, bit difficult to concentrate. The colour code runs from the tps connected to the throttle back to the ecu. It will vary in voltage depending on where you have the throttle position. At idle it will be under a volt and run up to 4 volts at 3/4 to full. Actually drops off to mid three's between 3/4 and full.
Fuck yes, I just tried this on mine and now it’s a completely different machine!!! How nobody has figured this out before is beyond me. I was hating pulling away at every traffic light, now it’s fine. Does this mod change how the egt behaves?
mine pulls hard low down and top end is a 2002 I spent 7 grand getting all the cooling system and I mean all of it replaced including the internal oil water cooler inside the motor she pulls hard and works great ooh including a total head rebuild. building her to travel to cap your 2020
They’re a great base to start from and are a good size for fitting plenty gear in. I haven’t spent anything on mine other than changing fluids and the usual, sounds like you’ve bombed yours with the good stuff. Was wondering who, how much and where you got your tune?
@@dinosshed no idea the disco was owned buy a charity that helps youths I got off them after they sold it due its age everything was in perfect condition the land rover tech stated we did as they asked . so no idea it just pulls hard off road and on
The idea and general point about the ‘how to’ videos I’ll upload are for the average Joe who’d rather keep their wallet full and have a go at fixing their own vehicles. There’s no way I’d be happy buying a new maf for x amount of dollars to find out I could have done this extremely cheap mod for the same result. No doubt a good chip/tune, cooler and exhaust will do wonders but I’d rather put that money towards something else like a winch.
While i agree it's way cheaper than a remap, it is less than £20 for a maf sensor, seems a perfect way to void your insurance if the insurance company want to remain the pricks they are, now we're talking real money
Might be a bit difficult to diagnose from where I sit. Need to make sure you have connected the correct pin out and check the voltage sweeps with throttle application. I've been meaning to upload another video detailing a bit more of the correct wiring and how to confirm operation. It's been a very busy time for me though.
If it's a 10P engine, this won't work as the MAF is only used for EGR calculations and not for IQ calcs. As for the throttle pedal mod... you may as well just leave the MAF disconnected (if it's a 15P engine) as it will run off the MAP and IAT sensors instead to calculate it's air flow (just like the 10P engines do).
Mine is a 10p and with the Maf disconnected it was no different as the sensor wasn’t working at all. Literally wouldn’t get out of its own way prior to making boost, now it’s much better since providing the ecu with the same signal as the tps. I have heard this before about the 10p vs 15p but I’ve found a totally different result playing out. The forums that state the Maf sensor makes no difference to fueling often mention to replace it if the engine runs sluggish off the mark which is contradictory. Ask someone else who’s done it or try it yourself.
Nope, just the original one for a 2000 year Td5, I had the discussion with a well known Td5 chip tuning guru and I sent him photos of it. He couldn’t get his head around it either. When I get my internet upgraded I’ll be adding more in-depth videos on it.
It’s possible, not sure why you’d have a Mass air flow meter if you’re not using it to measure the mass of air flowing through the engine. It’s easy enough to try and put back to standard if it didn’t work
Will this prevent turbo boost cut and going into limp mode because of the overboost? Wonder if the overboost cut i related to the MAF detecting too much airflow? Just fitted a new Turbski and would love to run a tit more boost without having to map the thing.
Hi mate great video. I have installed a throttle controller (Pedal Commander) on my stage 2 disco and the difference is mind blowing. The problem is that in some cases it goes in limp mode. If I make this hack will it be solved or not?
Thanks, I haven't used one on this set-up but it's definitely worth trying. It's easy enough to revert back to original if it doesn't help. I'm interested to hear how it goes. Cheers Dean
Hey dino, does this make a difference on a td5 with fully operational maf? Just wondered if would gain anything im in qld and same terrain, soft sand, loaded for camping, thanks mate
Hey Dan, to be honest it’s got the potential to aid in throttle response down low in the off boost/low boost area but a good working Maf is going to do similar above that. Thankfully it’s very easy to try and revert back to standard if you find it does nothing for you.
It's easily verified with a multimeter, just have the ignition on and you'll see it sweep from 0.8 volts through to 4 give or take. I've been slaving hard and not had time to push out another video on it.
Mate it’s white and is in the top left hand corner of the black plug when looking at the plug from the wire out side. If you have a multimeter you can check by referrencing the tps signal to ground. As you depress the accelerator pedal the voltage will increase, just have ignition on without the engine running. I’ll upload more videos when my internet gets upgraded, let me know how you go. Cheers
Hi mate, Can you share the state of your Td5 with the hack you did? Is it still running with the same hack with no issues after 5 years? I want to do the same but with a toggle switch to have the opportunity to switch between normal and your modification because most probably it makes a lot of black smoke when it is on a modified condition, so I would use normal conditions in the city and modified outside to get more torque when needed.
My MAF is ok all hot wires in place but still fill delays when pushing throttle before acceleration because of it I’m usually disconnecting MAF and running without it and it have more rev, so your trick must be more better because ECU gets direct signal from throttle and potentially should not have lag I presume
I haven’t mapped mine but it picked up plenty of off boost performance by doing this mod. I’d try it out and if it doesn’t like it let us all know. Easy to revert back to standard.
@@AbsoluteAcid2112 I'm looking into fitting a front diff flange to the rear which will allow fitment of a universal joint in place of the doughnut. It'd be cheaper and easier to just replace the rubber but I'm toying with making one out of a different bonding.
Basically you’re disconnecting the Mass Air flow sensor (Maf) from the circuit. You then connect the Maf sensor wire to the throttle position sensor (tps) circuit. When you press the accelerator pedal down the engines computer (ecu) sees the same signal voltage at both the Maf and Tps but the signal is only coming from the throttle position sensor, tricking the ecu into thinking it’s seeing the voltage from the Maf. It puts more fuel into the engine and makes more power down low in the rev range as a result.
Hey mate no need to remove pins, just unplug the connector to the Maf sensor and tie the tps and Maf together. If you have a multimeter you’ll see the voltage change as you depress the accelerator pedal.
I just tried this on mine, and I lost all throttle. The pedal literally did nothing at all. I snipped the wire , and I'm back to normal (still with the original problem though). What did I do wrong?
You’re not supposed to be cutting anything, you join them together mate. The throttle wire and Maf wire are connected to each other with a jumper wire. You may have cut the throttle position sensor wire which will kill the signal all together.
Mine did exactly the same .. so I also just cut the wire. Hey Dino .. I think he means the same as me .. we cut the new jumper wire only.. to restore to normal. I realised a little later, and probably the same goes for Max, that I also FORGOT to disconnect the MAF plug. I'll reconnect and make sure the plug is disconnected this time .. as soon as I get a bit of free time.
I haven’t yet sorry mate, I’m working 7 hours away from home at the moment. I’ll definitely get it done when I’m back. The pin outs you need are the first wire in from the top left corner. Maybe yours will look brown with green trace, if you have a multimeter you can test which one it is by checking continuity between maf plug and the ecu plug. Obviously you’ll need to disconnect it from the ecu beforehand.
Hey mate, there's probably no real gain performance wise if your maf is in good shape. It will provide a bit more initial take-off from idle but no gain after that. It tends to operate more like a mechanical injection system. A huge benefit is the ability to make your own intake/air filter system without the need to incorporate a new maf sensor. Also handy if you blow an intercooler pipe off, you'll still be able to accelerate to a safe spot. Hope this helps :)
Ok, no worries. Every vehicle I've converted is running fine, one of them was more like 3 year's ago. I've been busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking competition, one day I'll get back to some decent videos.
You fucked it! Nah mate, if your Maf is good before you may not notice a ‘massive’ gain. Mine was screwed and could barely get it to move when not boosted. Still should give you a noticeable gain in the off boost rev range, mine chicks out diesel smoke with the bypass and didn’t before.
Anytime you labour an engine in a tall gear you’ll increase the egt. This engine is ok to 550/600c before damaging it. My egt has increased by 20-30 if I push it, still well under the maximum.
This one still gets 9l/100 with mods that would hurt economy. If everything else was stock it'd get 8l/100 easily. Just remember to disconnect the Maf once you bypass it.
Mine improved because my Maf sensor wasn’t working at all. It’s 8/9 litres per 100km. The benefits are much better response from idle to 2,500 rpm and the fact you’ll never need to buy a new Maf.
It will depend if you have a two or three track tps. One of them will range down as you depress the accelerator and the other ranges up. Best to trace the wire colour that is at your throttle pedal and locate it on your ecu. Use a multimeter to verify the signal, it will range from roughly 0.8 volts with ignition on, engine off, pedal at rest, to around 4.0 volts with accelerator depressed.
I'd argue there's more messing about to replace the airflow meter than join two wires. Deleting the meter allows for easy air filter housing upgrades as well.
Mine doesn't chuck a code, just check the air flow readings and you'll see them increase with throttle. At least that's what happens with the dozen or so that I've done. The other way to confirm it works is to disconnect one of the boost pipes and see if you can drive it. If it's not done correctly it will be a complete slug to take off.
@@camd7452 as long as it registers flow increase kg/hour of air etc then it will work. Mines a 10p manual and I've done both 15p and auto. Take it for a drive and see how it goes.
Well when my MAF gave up on a long road trip symptoms were bucking at speed on the highway, Unplugged the MAF drove normal but hungry for fuel, Bought a new maf in germany at 190 euros and worked for a bit , then it too went to shit, I wont be buying another, BMW style mafs are known to be sensitive ie crap and expensive, So I will do this mod next time, wish Id seen this during my trip
That might not be the sensor failing as they’ll buck/misfire when over boosting. Check the actuator control solenoid and clean the map/intake air temperature sensor on the intake manifold.
How annoying then! I couldn’t justify spending those dollars which is one reason I put the bypass to the test. No Maf to fail anymore and it’s gained some low down grunt.
@@dinosshed Mine is quite heavily mapped as well, had a mild map back when I had to drive home from poland with it unplugged, no bucking after that, Think I will by pass it anyway, Something less to worry about after that.
If your air flow meter works properly then you might only notice a small increase in response off idle. This modification prevents the need to buy a new maf etc.
Very useful video mate, thank you. Did this to my Disco this morning along with the turbo waste gate module bypass and she's running heaps better. Great work!
It's a cheap trick for a decent gain, glad it's worked for you, cheers.
How did you bypass the wategate module ?
Thanks Dinos shed, this hack gave my Td5 a new lease of life, going to do the same to my other two td5’s. Thanks for the tip. 👍
Thanks for the feedback and you're most welcome. I've been testing other things out which I'll share soon enough, just making sure they are worth doing first :)
Very interesting video. Just about to buy my first TD5 engined vehicle after a lifelong bad habit of RV8's. You have a new subscriber mate.
Hey mate. Just wanted you to know that I just did this on my 2002 Disco 2 TD5 and it made a huge difference! It's a totally different truck! The ECUs sputtered a bit when I first started and tried it then they sorted themselves out. She's got crazy acceleration now compare to what it was. And the MAF was working! Thanks so much for this tip! I also shortened the waste gate arm a couple threads so it runs a little more boost.
Yeah awesome, maybe your MAF was a bit ordinary. Glad it's worked out
@@dinosshed do you leave the big red plug unpluged after the mod?
@@dinosshed please explain the other wire, you mentioned the orange with blue marker but bridge to which colour wire?
@@dinosshed I couldn’t see clearly what wires on video is it looking at plug top far left wires to link in to please
thank for the tips mate !
I tried yesterday on mine and I fail the first time I put it on the wrong one and my car did not want it to accelerate, but fix it and find the correct one and now its working, thank you lot 😄
Awesome, glad it's working for you! I'll do another video of the pin out and how to test it all in the future.
My Disco 2 actually pulls pretty hard (I did shorten the waste-gate actuator rod back from 11 to 9 threads showing), so I guess the MAF is functioning as designed... I might connect the two wires with a quick connector between them for when my MAF does give up... When towing I could bypass the MAF to get more torque... like you I'm not looking to spend big dollars on the old dog... mine is a 2000 model manual as well... cheers for the tip : )
.....hmm i forgot to disconect the MAF sensor. Now is really great. Thank you a lot.
worked for my disco 2 1999 pulls brill now,thanks for the hack mate ur a star
It's good value, glad it's doing the job
I would like more engine acceleration, what should I do? Are there additional ways to make it more accelerated?
Dino mate ! You are brilliant ! I am going to try that in few days as I am no expert on vehicles.
Last night I bought Disco 2 2002 SE 2.5L Td5 4sp auto with 220k on it. It has Max torque =315Nm
I own a 2016 Kia Sportage Platinum 2L diesel also. It has Max torque = 400Nm
I was wondering what makes the Kia's pickup so fast compared to Disco 2 and what could be done to increase the pickup of Disco 2.
Your simple solution is one big change to the pickup of td5.
Hey mate, glad to see you’re interested in getting your hands dirty on a disco👍 The biggest reasons for the difference in performance between the two is nearly 20 years of development as the Td5 was developed in the 90’s, vehicle weight, transmission gearing and the fact that the Td5 is softly tuned. It’s easy to push them out past the 200hp mark with an ecu chip/flash which also comes with a huge torque increase.
If you’re running taller/bigger tyres than standard this will also have a large affect on acceleration. If you do you’ll need to lower the final drive ratio to offset them. This Maf mod or hack will make a big difference ‘if’ your existing Mad is not working properly, often pick up drivability lower in the rev range and off boost.
Good Day mate , You are a legend, thank you for your time to make this great video,, mate I done it on my Td5 disco 2000 and soon I start engine up the NanoCom shows me a 1,7 Faulty Air Flow circuit low , as we know what we done so is that normal try deleting it it keep in there ? Any ideas
Cheers Matt
Did this mod over a year ago now as my maff was dead and car would barely move till 2000rpm even when 4wding you couldn't bump or try hitting a hill with more speed by using 2nd low as she would just stall unless you were well above the 2000rpm
Now I just idle up everything in first low as the big increase on power also tents to smoke a little and get the odd puff of un burnt fuel so mates tell me but she had 360k on her now and still going strong with 18 psi boost to add
Did it and works great! Thanks.
My pleasure, glad it's working for you :)
So just to be sure that is the wire in top far left of both plugs as you are looking at plugs ??? Thank you
Hey mate. Thanks for this mod it has made a big difference. Just to be clear do I leave the MAF plug disconnected from now?
Yeah, just leave it disconnected from the maf.
I did it too. It's still no cannonball, but I've got a better response from zero, that's for sure, much less lag. And good I did it: I just realized that I had quiet a bit of oil or other fluid on the ECU and in the lower plug, no idea how that got there.
It just sorts out that nasty lag between idle and turbo kicking in. The oil is tracking down the wiring loom that enters the engine to control the injectors. The cable acts like a hose and the oil flows down into the ecu plug.
The oil is creaping through injector wirings. You should change it. A common problem, easy to fix.
Great job my friend
Having some dramas with finding the tps wire on the ecu.
Pulled off the plugs and used a testlight / multimeter to find the wire with the voltage differences. And I was unable to source the wire from the pedal
Do you have a wire diagram?
ITs for a Td5 15p engine
Hey mate, should be a white coloured wite trace. Currently watching my hot neighbour give my missus a lap dance, bit difficult to concentrate. The colour code runs from the tps connected to the throttle back to the ecu. It will vary in voltage depending on where you have the throttle position. At idle it will be under a volt and run up to 4 volts at 3/4 to full. Actually drops off to mid three's between 3/4 and full.
some great tips .. where is your workshop located .. we are in Vic .. cheers Jason
Hey mate, I’m in Brisbane, will put up some more content once I’ve finished painting the house 😉
Dino's are you still in Brisbane and have you any updates on this subject 🤔
I'm a new subscriber and new to the td5
Thanks from Gladstone qld 👍🏻
Just unplug the maf you don’t need to do the rest
Fuck yes, I just tried this on mine and now it’s a completely different machine!!! How nobody has figured this out before is beyond me. I was hating pulling away at every traffic light, now it’s fine. Does this mod change how the egt behaves?
Do I use two wires or one wire from the tread and sensor?
mine pulls hard low down and top end is a 2002 I spent 7 grand getting all the cooling system and I mean all of it replaced including the internal oil water cooler inside the motor she pulls hard and works great ooh including a total head rebuild.
building her to travel to cap your 2020
They’re a great base to start from and are a good size for fitting plenty gear in. I haven’t spent anything on mine other than changing fluids and the usual, sounds like you’ve bombed yours with the good stuff. Was wondering who, how much and where you got your tune?
@@dinosshed no idea the disco was owned buy a charity that helps youths I got off them after they sold it due its age everything was in perfect condition the land rover tech stated we did as they asked . so no idea it just pulls hard off road and on
Hey Dino´s, this may also apply to remapped td5 or just those who have stock ecu? thanks
You have no idea what you talking about, but it worked! Thumbs up!!!
What didn’t make sense? It’s tps signal voltage feeding off to the maf sensor input fooling the ecu.
Would never drop the input from the maf . Just make sure it works couple with a good fuel map, a high flow intercooler and you will be set
The idea and general point about the ‘how to’ videos I’ll upload are for the average Joe who’d rather keep their wallet full and have a go at fixing their own vehicles. There’s no way I’d be happy buying a new maf for x amount of dollars to find out I could have done this extremely cheap mod for the same result.
No doubt a good chip/tune, cooler and exhaust will do wonders but I’d rather put that money towards something else like a winch.
While i agree it's way cheaper than a remap, it is less than £20 for a maf sensor, seems a perfect way to void your insurance if the insurance company want to remain the pricks they are, now we're talking real money
@@ragga2316 cheap MAF dont last been there done that
Thank you for video, but.....today i made hack on my disco 2 and after i have no reaction from throttle pedal and check engine on. pls help
Might be a bit difficult to diagnose from where I sit. Need to make sure you have connected the correct pin out and check the voltage sweeps with throttle application. I've been meaning to upload another video detailing a bit more of the correct wiring and how to confirm operation. It's been a very busy time for me though.
If it's a 10P engine, this won't work as the MAF is only used for EGR calculations and not for IQ calcs. As for the throttle pedal mod... you may as well just leave the MAF disconnected (if it's a 15P engine) as it will run off the MAP and IAT sensors instead to calculate it's air flow (just like the 10P engines do).
Mine is a 10p and with the Maf disconnected it was no different as the sensor wasn’t working at all. Literally wouldn’t get out of its own way prior to making boost, now it’s much better since providing the ecu with the same signal as the tps. I have heard this before about the 10p vs 15p but I’ve found a totally different result playing out. The forums that state the Maf sensor makes no difference to fueling often mention to replace it if the engine runs sluggish off the mark which is contradictory. Ask someone else who’s done it or try it yourself.
@@dinosshed are you using an NNN ECU as this will make a very big difference.
Nope, just the original one for a 2000 year Td5, I had the discussion with a well known Td5 chip tuning guru and I sent him photos of it. He couldn’t get his head around it either. When I get my internet upgraded I’ll be adding more in-depth videos on it.
Perhaps you have a different tuneid or something for a different market making it work differently
It’s possible, not sure why you’d have a Mass air flow meter if you’re not using it to measure the mass of air flowing through the engine. It’s easy enough to try and put back to standard if it didn’t work
I just got myself a new fuel pump cost me $400 fuck me dead she runs so much better I haven’t had it ever run this good
But the scary thing is it’s so fucking loud
Dino when you do the wire the plug on the maf you plug on or leave unplugged.
Thanks
Leave it unplugged from the maf
It's hard for me to see what colour wires are what and what pin number on the plugs. Has anyone done a diagram for this please
What colour is the one cable at the ecu
Will this prevent turbo boost cut and going into limp mode because of the overboost? Wonder if the overboost cut i related to the MAF detecting too much airflow? Just fitted a new Turbski and would love to run a tit more boost without having to map the thing.
Hey mate, sorry for a late reply. It won't alter the boost cut, just gives you the opportunity to delete the maf sensor and gain some torque off idle.
Damn ,which is tpu? I have oil in my ecu too ?
Hi mate great video. I have installed a throttle controller (Pedal Commander) on my stage 2 disco and the difference is mind blowing. The problem is that in some cases it goes in limp mode. If I make this hack will it be solved or not?
Thanks, I haven't used one on this set-up but it's definitely worth trying. It's easy enough to revert back to original if it doesn't help. I'm interested to hear how it goes. Cheers Dean
I will give it a try and let you know!
Hey dino, does this make a difference on a td5 with fully operational maf? Just wondered if would gain anything im in qld and same terrain, soft sand, loaded for camping, thanks mate
Hey Dan, to be honest it’s got the potential to aid in throttle response down low in the off boost/low boost area but a good working Maf is going to do similar above that. Thankfully it’s very easy to try and revert back to standard if you find it does nothing for you.
@@dinosshed thanks mate
Nice vid. I want to try it on my td5 04 ,and which color is the TPS wire . One is orangegreen
It's easily verified with a multimeter, just have the ignition on and you'll see it sweep from 0.8 volts through to 4 give or take. I've been slaving hard and not had time to push out another video on it.
Thanks mate too video saved me
Glad you’ve had a go and it’s worked out👍
Dino's Shed what colour is the tps wire ?
Mate it’s white and is in the top left hand corner of the black plug when looking at the plug from the wire out side. If you have a multimeter you can check by referrencing the tps signal to ground. As you depress the accelerator pedal the voltage will increase, just have ignition on without the engine running. I’ll upload more videos when my internet gets upgraded, let me know how you go. Cheers
Hi mate,
Can you share the state of your Td5 with the hack you did?
Is it still running with the same hack with no issues after 5 years?
I want to do the same but with a toggle switch to have the opportunity to switch between normal and your modification because most probably it makes a lot of black smoke when it is on a modified condition, so I would use normal conditions in the city and modified outside to get more torque when needed.
It's still going fine. Doesn't chuck a bunch of soot out. If your maf is ok, then it might not be a massive gain.
My MAF is ok all hot wires in place but still fill delays when pushing throttle before acceleration because of it I’m usually disconnecting MAF and running without it and it have more rev, so your trick must be more better because ECU gets direct signal from throttle and potentially should not have lag I presume
Would this even still be ok with a remap
Even with a remap they still lack bottom end torque
I haven’t mapped mine but it picked up plenty of off boost performance by doing this mod. I’d try it out and if it doesn’t like it let us all know. Easy to revert back to standard.
Hows your Td5 still holding up?
Going to do this one soon!
Still going strong mate, destroyed the doughnut on the rear prop, engine running fine.
@@dinosshed Awesome
Let me know if you find a bypass method on the rear doughnut!
The other halfs one isnt looking too good
@@AbsoluteAcid2112 I'm looking into fitting a front diff flange to the rear which will allow fitment of a universal joint in place of the doughnut. It'd be cheaper and easier to just replace the rubber but I'm toying with making one out of a different bonding.
Hi guys, Can anybody please explain what the video tells? I couldn't understand by listening :) I need this upgrade really much.
Basically you’re disconnecting the Mass Air flow sensor (Maf) from the circuit. You then connect the Maf sensor wire to the throttle position sensor (tps) circuit. When you press the accelerator pedal down the engines computer (ecu) sees the same signal voltage at both the Maf and Tps but the signal is only coming from the throttle position sensor, tricking the ecu into thinking it’s seeing the voltage from the Maf. It puts more fuel into the engine and makes more power down low in the rev range as a result.
@@dinosshed thank you, please just confirm...should I remove the pins at the red plug for the MAF or just tie into it? same at the TPS wire side?
Hey mate no need to remove pins, just unplug the connector to the Maf sensor and tie the tps and Maf together. If you have a multimeter you’ll see the voltage change as you depress the accelerator pedal.
@@dinosshed perfect I am with you now. Thanks
I just tried this on mine, and I lost all throttle. The pedal literally did nothing at all. I snipped the wire , and I'm back to normal (still with the original problem though). What did I do wrong?
You’re not supposed to be cutting anything, you join them together mate. The throttle wire and Maf wire are connected to each other with a jumper wire. You may have cut the throttle position sensor wire which will kill the signal all together.
Mine did exactly the same .. so I also just cut the wire.
Hey Dino .. I think he means the same as me .. we cut the new jumper wire only.. to restore to normal.
I realised a little later, and probably the same goes for Max, that I also FORGOT to disconnect the MAF plug.
I'll reconnect and make sure the plug is disconnected this time .. as soon as I get a bit of free time.
Did you do the video for working out the cable from pedal to ECU and which cable number is it as my MAF is brown cabled not orange
I haven’t yet sorry mate, I’m working 7 hours away from home at the moment. I’ll definitely get it done when I’m back. The pin outs you need are the first wire in from the top left corner. Maybe yours will look brown with green trace, if you have a multimeter you can test which one it is by checking continuity between maf plug and the ecu plug. Obviously you’ll need to disconnect it from the ecu beforehand.
If your MAF is working, are there benefits to doing this anyway?
Hey mate, there's probably no real gain performance wise if your maf is in good shape. It will provide a bit more initial take-off from idle but no gain after that. It tends to operate more like a mechanical injection system. A huge benefit is the ability to make your own intake/air filter system without the need to incorporate a new maf sensor. Also handy if you blow an intercooler pipe off, you'll still be able to accelerate to a safe spot. Hope this helps :)
Thanks for the reply, going to do this to mine, soon as it passes the MOT.@@dinosshed
Hey, do you know if this will work on a manual? Cheers
This one is a manual, still going fine years later, cheers.
It's been two years, can you give us an update on MAF mod, is there any problems in the last two years or not?
Ok, no worries. Every vehicle I've converted is running fine, one of them was more like 3 year's ago. I've been busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking competition, one day I'll get back to some decent videos.
I wonder if this will work on my Disco 2 V8? 🤪
Unfortunately it won't, it's td5 only.
Hey mate just tried this on my 2004 td5 automatic. Can't say I notice any difference. Will it be more noticeable in low range when under load?
You fucked it! Nah mate, if your Maf is good before you may not notice a ‘massive’ gain. Mine was screwed and could barely get it to move when not boosted. Still should give you a noticeable gain in the off boost rev range, mine chicks out diesel smoke with the bypass and didn’t before.
Cheers for the reply. I'll give it a good test drive tomorrow and see.
No worries mate, it’s worked well for a few that I know of, they did have rooted MAF though.
do you think this would effect the Exhaust gas temps looking at doing a few mods to my td5 but first thing im going to do is get an egt gauge
Anytime you labour an engine in a tall gear you’ll increase the egt. This engine is ok to 550/600c before damaging it. My egt has increased by 20-30 if I push it, still well under the maximum.
What’s the economy like worse?, my gets about 15L per 100km, I think the maf is rooted, should I try this mod ?
This one still gets 9l/100 with mods that would hurt economy. If everything else was stock it'd get 8l/100 easily. Just remember to disconnect the Maf once you bypass it.
Haw is then the fuel consuption?
Mine improved because my Maf sensor wasn’t working at all. It’s 8/9 litres per 100km. The benefits are much better response from idle to 2,500 rpm and the fact you’ll never need to buy a new Maf.
@@dinosshed i cant find the tps wire on sthe computer..
Easiest way is to google search the Td5 ecu harness pin out. Both pins are the top left of each plug.
@@dinosshed thank you
I did it it feels like 10-15 hp more.
What color is the tps
It will depend if you have a two or three track tps. One of them will range down as you depress the accelerator and the other ranges up. Best to trace the wire colour that is at your throttle pedal and locate it on your ecu. Use a multimeter to verify the signal, it will range from roughly 0.8 volts with ignition on, engine off, pedal at rest, to around 4.0 volts with accelerator depressed.
Do I leave the maf connected or disconnect
@raoultelting6406 definitely disconnect it.
All that messing about just replace the air flow meter 2 second job to replace
I'd argue there's more messing about to replace the airflow meter than join two wires. Deleting the meter allows for easy air filter housing upgrades as well.
I did this mod, there is a maf fault code, is that normal doing this mod
Mine doesn't chuck a code, just check the air flow readings and you'll see them increase with throttle. At least that's what happens with the dozen or so that I've done. The other way to confirm it works is to disconnect one of the boost pipes and see if you can drive it. If it's not done correctly it will be a complete slug to take off.
@@dinosshed the flow increases with the throttle, but nanocom has a code too low because when off throttle the flow is 00
@@camd7452 as long as it registers flow increase kg/hour of air etc then it will work. Mines a 10p manual and I've done both 15p and auto. Take it for a drive and see how it goes.
@@dinosshed might be 1sec delay then pulls, think it worked, re did the wire jumper
@@dinosshed thanks for your help !
Well when my MAF gave up on a long road trip symptoms were bucking at speed on the highway, Unplugged the MAF drove normal but hungry for fuel, Bought a new maf in germany at 190 euros and worked for a bit , then it too went to shit, I wont be buying another, BMW style mafs are known to be sensitive ie crap and expensive, So I will do this mod next time, wish Id seen this during my trip
That might not be the sensor failing as they’ll buck/misfire when over boosting. Check the actuator control solenoid and clean the map/intake air temperature sensor on the intake manifold.
@@dinosshed those were all checked map clean as a whistle actuator moving as it should, was the maf sensor
How annoying then! I couldn’t justify spending those dollars which is one reason I put the bypass to the test. No Maf to fail anymore and it’s gained some low down grunt.
@@dinosshed Mine is quite heavily mapped as well, had a mild map back when I had to drive home from poland with it unplugged, no bucking after that, Think I will by pass it anyway, Something less to worry about after that.
No , accelerator didn't work
Do you plug the Mac sensor plug back in to the Maf ?
Hey mate, you leave the plug disconnected from the Maf sensor, otherwise it’ll cause problems. 👍
Top one pal
You’re welcome, let me know how you get on with it 👍
Nothing changed when I done this
If your air flow meter works properly then you might only notice a small increase in response off idle. This modification prevents the need to buy a new maf etc.
Hello ! I have tried it, and for me the air mass meter idle only 10 kg / h. What could be the problem ?
Check if you’re getting the 0-5volt signal at the Maf input to the ecu, it should increase with the acceleration pedal.
please dont do this if you value your cars.
Why’s that mate?