04/2024 Update: Full details in the description, but long story short, the silicone spray only lasted 8 months before the squeaking came back. I next tried some All-Purpose Lucas Red N Tacky Grease, but this type of product didn't help. Unfortunately, I was in a car accident last week and this upper control arm is now ruined and I can no longer continue experimenting. My theory is since the silicone spray worked so well but only temporarily, perhaps a silicone paste will also make the squeaking go away but have better staying power. If anybody finds a long term solution, please leave a comment!
It's not very likely in my experience and knowledge. You're more likely to experience rattling and clunking. I would inspect them and ensure there's no looseness or play in them, which would be a sign they need to be replaced before they break. Check out my sway bar end links video for more information - ruclips.net/video/8SgFkmbFdKY/видео.htmlsi=2-fFyhZrgXZLB7uu
Thanks for the video. My suspension is making a very similar noise over speed bumps. I had a suspension overhaul done in August of 2023. I think the bushing at the top like yours might be my issue. Doesn't poking a hole in that bushing degrade it and cause issues? I'm surprised superglue worked to seal up the hole. I don't know if I want to spend the money on all the stuff in your description without knowing it will fix my issue. Thanks for any input.
The super glue actually did a fantastic job of sealing the slit we made back up. I can tell you the silicone spray made the squeaking go away for 8 months on my car, which isn't a good enough solution. I also tried Lucas Red N Tacky, but that didn't work hardly at all. Unfortunately due to a car accident, I am unable to continue trying other products. However, I theorize a silicone paste would also make the squeaking go away but have better staying power. I understand you don't want to risk it, but this is the best solution I can come up with. Good luck!
Instead of a knife, Why not use a syringe with a small gauge needle to inject silicone into the joint? that way you minimize the damage to the boot and chances for debris and moisture to enter healthy joints
@@g_rr_tt I did mention at 2:30 a needle would work much better, however I did not have a needle at the time. There is additional info in the description as well as some links to a nice set of syringes and blunt tip needles that work great for this project. Thanks for watching!
It coud still very well be the bushings in the knuckle that are attached to the upper or lower control arm. Your vehicle is designed differently, so you might not be able to fix your squeaky suspension the exact same way I did on my vehicle. Your bushings are pressed into the knuckle and aren't exposed like mine are. If you can't get lubricant inside the rubber bushing, you could still try to spray the exterior of all the joints on all of the links and control arms. Good luck!
Thanks for your videos! I have an 03 CLS and they help me a lot. Have you had any issues with D5 flashing, and the triangle with the exclamation point? Mine did it one time, but it runs great.
Thank you for watching! I think that’s only happened to me once or twice. The catalytic converter O2 sensor wire snagged on something and was ruined, causing a fuse to blow and some lights on the Dashboard to flash. Those lights can flash for a variety of reasons though.
I have 2007 honda accord which is basically the same setup as your suspension there. It sucks that they didnt put grease nipples on the ball joints and other components.
@@GreasyWop I personally like the sealed components better. With grease fittings, you HAVE to grease them consistently or they go bad sooner. If you’re able to keep up with the tedious maintenance, they’ll last a super long time. But the sealed components have lasted me a long time with no routine maintenance required. Moog is a popular brand that puts grease fittings on all their components.
That code is for the ELD (Electronic Load Detector). It's located in the fuse box in the engine bay on the passenger side. You'll see 2 fuses that are held in with screws, and in between those fuses is the ELD. It may or may not require removing the fuse box to remove it since the wire connector is sometimes located on the bottom side. On my car at least, it's luckily connected on top for easy removal. For whatever reason, the part catalog doesn't list the ELD on our vehicles. But I found the part number we need, it's 38255-S5A-003. Good luck!
Sorry to hear about the accident. I have a 03 CLS6 and it has a clunking noise that happens only when I come to a stop or start from a stop. Not any other time. I’ve taken it to multiple shops and they all tell me the suspension is fine. It’s been frustrating to say the least. Any ideas? Anybody
I would check the engine and transmission mounts. Engine mounts only last about 150k before they start clunking, and transmission mounts have an unpredictable life of 200-300k miles before they tear apart. I made a separate video on each
If you’re doing it yourself, all the parts you’ll need can be purchased for $40. Links in the description. Otherwise I don’t know how much a shop would charge. Should be less than 1 hour labor, so $75-150? Good luck and thanks for watching!
You’re barely creating the smallest little slit and then using super glue to close it up. It’ll be fine. Plus it already has 345,000 miles on it. Better to try and save it before it fails even quicker if nothing is done.
@@seanreed3103 I would argue this is more than a band aid fix. Using the silicone spray made the squeaking go away for 8 months. I presume an actual silicone paste would last even longer. Unfortunately a lady side swiped me and this control arm is now ruined so I can no longer test my theory. I also advise against greasable replacements. Those routinely need to be greased, otherwise they'll wear out significantly faster, and I know most people won't be diligent enough to keep up with that, myself included because that's one more thing I have to worry about. Especially when I shouldn't have to considering this non-greasable ball joint was still good even after 345,000 miles. Plus most aftermarket ball joints are garbage. I would trust an OEM junkyard control arm over aftermarket anyday.
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
04/2024 Update: Full details in the description, but long story short, the silicone spray only lasted 8 months before the squeaking came back. I next tried some All-Purpose Lucas Red N Tacky Grease, but this type of product didn't help. Unfortunately, I was in a car accident last week and this upper control arm is now ruined and I can no longer continue experimenting. My theory is since the silicone spray worked so well but only temporarily, perhaps a silicone paste will also make the squeaking go away but have better staying power. If anybody finds a long term solution, please leave a comment!
Could the sqeaking also be coming from the bushings on the front and rear sway bars ?, great video also.
It's not very likely in my experience and knowledge. You're more likely to experience rattling and clunking. I would inspect them and ensure there's no looseness or play in them, which would be a sign they need to be replaced before they break. Check out my sway bar end links video for more information - ruclips.net/video/8SgFkmbFdKY/видео.htmlsi=2-fFyhZrgXZLB7uu
Thanks for the video. My suspension is making a very similar noise over speed bumps. I had a suspension overhaul done in August of 2023. I think the bushing at the top like yours might be my issue. Doesn't poking a hole in that bushing degrade it and cause issues? I'm surprised superglue worked to seal up the hole. I don't know if I want to spend the money on all the stuff in your description without knowing it will fix my issue. Thanks for any input.
The super glue actually did a fantastic job of sealing the slit we made back up. I can tell you the silicone spray made the squeaking go away for 8 months on my car, which isn't a good enough solution. I also tried Lucas Red N Tacky, but that didn't work hardly at all. Unfortunately due to a car accident, I am unable to continue trying other products. However, I theorize a silicone paste would also make the squeaking go away but have better staying power. I understand you don't want to risk it, but this is the best solution I can come up with. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks for the update. My issue ended up being some polyurethane sway bar bushings needed to be re-greased.
Instead of a knife, Why not use a syringe with a small gauge needle to inject silicone into the joint? that way you minimize the damage to the boot and chances for debris and moisture to enter healthy joints
@@g_rr_tt I did mention at 2:30 a needle would work much better, however I did not have a needle at the time. There is additional info in the description as well as some links to a nice set of syringes and blunt tip needles that work great for this project. Thanks for watching!
What would be the sqweak coming from the rears, I have a Dodge Journey 2015.
It coud still very well be the bushings in the knuckle that are attached to the upper or lower control arm. Your vehicle is designed differently, so you might not be able to fix your squeaky suspension the exact same way I did on my vehicle. Your bushings are pressed into the knuckle and aren't exposed like mine are. If you can't get lubricant inside the rubber bushing, you could still try to spray the exterior of all the joints on all of the links and control arms. Good luck!
Thanks for your videos! I have an 03 CLS and they help me a lot.
Have you had any issues with D5 flashing, and the triangle with the exclamation point? Mine did it one time, but it runs great.
Thank you for watching! I think that’s only happened to me once or twice. The catalytic converter O2 sensor wire snagged on something and was ruined, causing a fuse to blow and some lights on the Dashboard to flash. Those lights can flash for a variety of reasons though.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome, thanks for the reply. I need to check out that O2 censor, I got an error code on that. Hopefully it’s an easy fix.
Fellow 03CLS6 owner. 🫡
I have 2007 honda accord which is basically the same setup as your suspension there. It sucks that they didnt put grease nipples on the ball joints and other components.
@@GreasyWop I personally like the sealed components better. With grease fittings, you HAVE to grease them consistently or they go bad sooner. If you’re able to keep up with the tedious maintenance, they’ll last a super long time. But the sealed components have lasted me a long time with no routine maintenance required. Moog is a popular brand that puts grease fittings on all their components.
Love your channel im about to run the gambit on a 02 CLS i just picked up have you had any experience with a P1298 code?
That code is for the ELD (Electronic Load Detector). It's located in the fuse box in the engine bay on the passenger side. You'll see 2 fuses that are held in with screws, and in between those fuses is the ELD. It may or may not require removing the fuse box to remove it since the wire connector is sometimes located on the bottom side. On my car at least, it's luckily connected on top for easy removal. For whatever reason, the part catalog doesn't list the ELD on our vehicles. But I found the part number we need, it's 38255-S5A-003. Good luck!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you so much! It’s wrench day I’m pulling solenoids and cleaning screens today
Sorry to hear about the accident.
I have a 03 CLS6 and it has a clunking noise that happens only when I come to a stop or start from a stop. Not any other time. I’ve taken it to multiple shops and they all tell me the suspension is fine. It’s been frustrating to say the least. Any ideas? Anybody
I would check the engine and transmission mounts. Engine mounts only last about 150k before they start clunking, and transmission mounts have an unpredictable life of 200-300k miles before they tear apart. I made a separate video on each
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome thanks I’ll check the mounts
❤
How much does a job like that cost.
If you’re doing it yourself, all the parts you’ll need can be purchased for $40. Links in the description. Otherwise I don’t know how much a shop would charge. Should be less than 1 hour labor, so $75-150? Good luck and thanks for watching!
No.... just no. Those boots keep out dirt and water. Never cut them open.
You’re barely creating the smallest little slit and then using super glue to close it up. It’ll be fine. Plus it already has 345,000 miles on it. Better to try and save it before it fails even quicker if nothing is done.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple or replace it with a greasable replacement. This is a bandaid fix not a permanent one
@@seanreed3103 I would argue this is more than a band aid fix. Using the silicone spray made the squeaking go away for 8 months. I presume an actual silicone paste would last even longer. Unfortunately a lady side swiped me and this control arm is now ruined so I can no longer test my theory.
I also advise against greasable replacements. Those routinely need to be greased, otherwise they'll wear out significantly faster, and I know most people won't be diligent enough to keep up with that, myself included because that's one more thing I have to worry about. Especially when I shouldn't have to considering this non-greasable ball joint was still good even after 345,000 miles. Plus most aftermarket ball joints are garbage. I would trust an OEM junkyard control arm over aftermarket anyday.
@@seanreed3103 You're worried about a car that isn't yours 😂 he said 345 THOUSAND miles lol let him do his thing
@alondrowhite7247 not the car but giving out bad advice