I had a 2013 Lincoln MDX with 131,000 miles in the shop today and repaired the same Customer Concern soft brake pedal.. I did not replace the master cylinder, or the A.B.S. valve block, or pull the battery multiple times.. Now I'm home after work and Googled on the RUclips... Your video was the first to Pop up.. Your final diagnosis of a stuck valve in the A.B.S. block was probably correct.. I performed the auto bleed procedure and the pedal may have felt slightly better?.. Before condemning, or falsely diagnosing a faulty master cylinder,, pull all 4 wheels and remove the mounting bolts from the brake caliper's.. Be sure that none of the sliding bolts or bushings are seized.. Crack open the bleeder screws "just gravity bleeding" and look for air bubbles.. NOW HERE WAS THE FIX!!.. Get another person to help on the brake pedal and manually bleed the flush the brake fluid system.. When I bleed the Left Rear caliper,, the brake pedal felt normal, and as good as new... Moral of the story is "Flush the brake fluid, because one of the valves is Stuck in the Muck!"
I actually took the ABS block off of this MKX (not shown in the video) and attempted to do a bench clean/flush, and then reassembled and bled the brakes, and still had no pedal. Mine was REALLY REALLY stuck. Thanks for the comment tho!
Thank you for this great video very informative I have my wife’s 2013 ford edge with low B pedal Iam in process of changing the master and Iam hoping it will get the pedal back up if not then off to abs block wish me luck thanks again great video I appreciate you
I left a comment yesterday, and called one of my best friends.. He's a retired Ford Master Technician.. He told me "Flushing the brake fluid was the best thing I did" Auto Bleed and Manually Bleed all 4 corner's.. The best place to start is Cover The Basics 👍
On my 2013 Ford Edge sometimes the brake pedal will go soft after a hard braking event. Running the auto bleed function in Forscan always solves the problem...until the next hard braking event. Hopefully, flushing and bleeding at the four corners will prevent the problem from recurring.
Well, the Forscan bleed trick stopped working when the brakes went spongy again. Took it to the dealer for the replacement of the booster under the extended customer satisfaction program, but there was no real improvement in the spongy pedal. I just ordered a new HCU and will be doing the same job as shown here. This video has been a great resource.
This video helped immensely in replacing the HCU. Thank you! New HCU followed by 2 rounds of HCU bleeding (with Forscan) and manual bleeding at the four wheels fixed the problem. After I finished the job, I wondered if it would have been worth it to remove that transmisssion cooler line. That thing was a real PITA as far as being in the way to get to those battery tray support bracket bolts. Also, the only way to get to that bottom HCU mounting bolt was from underneath the car which worked nicely with a long extension going back to front from behind the front crossmember.
We replaced the master cylinder (via mechanic) and it seemed to fix the problem but now it's back. I have no idea if they bled the breaks. Do you suggest starting there?
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I had a 2013 Lincoln MDX with 131,000 miles in the shop today and repaired the same Customer Concern soft brake pedal.. I did not replace the master cylinder, or the A.B.S. valve block, or pull the battery multiple times.. Now I'm home after work and Googled on the RUclips... Your video was the first to Pop up.. Your final diagnosis of a stuck valve in the A.B.S. block was probably correct.. I performed the auto bleed procedure and the pedal may have felt slightly better?.. Before condemning, or falsely diagnosing a faulty master cylinder,, pull all 4 wheels and remove the mounting bolts from the brake caliper's.. Be sure that none of the sliding bolts or bushings are seized.. Crack open the bleeder screws "just gravity bleeding" and look for air bubbles.. NOW HERE WAS THE FIX!!.. Get another person to help on the brake pedal and manually bleed the flush the brake fluid system.. When I bleed the Left Rear caliper,, the brake pedal felt normal, and as good as new... Moral of the story is "Flush the brake fluid, because one of the valves is Stuck in the Muck!"
I actually took the ABS block off of this MKX (not shown in the video) and attempted to do a bench clean/flush, and then reassembled and bled the brakes, and still had no pedal. Mine was REALLY REALLY stuck. Thanks for the comment tho!
Thank you for this great video very informative
I have my wife’s 2013 ford edge with low B pedal Iam in process of changing the master and Iam hoping it will get the pedal back up if not then off to abs block wish me luck thanks again great video
I appreciate you
I left a comment yesterday, and called one of my best friends.. He's a retired Ford Master Technician.. He told me "Flushing the brake fluid was the best thing I did" Auto Bleed and Manually Bleed all 4 corner's.. The best place to start is Cover The Basics 👍
Certainly doesn't hurt to start simple (and cheap)
Great video, very clear as to what to do step by step! Thank you very much
You're welcome! Hope it helped you out
UGH, I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Now I know what i'm in for.
yah, its really not that bad tho. just the ABS control unit is expensive!!
@@Patman03sprcrw so where is the best place to buy from?
I picked my up from Ford, but I'll be honest I didn't really price shop anywhere.
Tasca online parts usually has good prices too
On my 2013 Ford Edge sometimes the brake pedal will go soft after a hard braking event. Running the auto bleed function in Forscan always solves the problem...until the next hard braking event. Hopefully, flushing and bleeding at the four corners will prevent the problem from recurring.
You probably have an intermittent sticking valve. I hope that you can limp it along for a little while longer!
Well, the Forscan bleed trick stopped working when the brakes went spongy again. Took it to the dealer for the replacement of the booster under the extended customer satisfaction program, but there was no real improvement in the spongy pedal. I just ordered a new HCU and will be doing the same job as shown here. This video has been a great resource.
This video helped immensely in replacing the HCU. Thank you! New HCU followed by 2 rounds of HCU bleeding (with Forscan) and manual bleeding at the four wheels fixed the problem. After I finished the job, I wondered if it would have been worth it to remove that transmisssion cooler line. That thing was a real PITA as far as being in the way to get to those battery tray support bracket bolts. Also, the only way to get to that bottom HCU mounting bolt was from underneath the car which worked nicely with a long extension going back to front from behind the front crossmember.
Replacing the master cylinder did absolutely nothing for mine if I take a sharp left U-turn my brakes go right to the floor for days
did you do full ABS bleed and brake bleed?
We replaced the master cylinder (via mechanic) and it seemed to fix the problem but now it's back. I have no idea if they bled the breaks. Do you suggest starting there?
likely needs an ABS valve block, not a master cylinder
Did you have reprogram the unit, or, because you just changed what appears to be the mechanical portion of the ABS unit, no programming was required?
Correct, no programming. But the Forscan does help to do the ABS bleed portion
Did you by chance look into disassembling the ABS module to look for stuck valve?
the thought crossed my mind, but I never did