If you look online, there are calculators for voltage loss in "12" volt wiring. Mainly for marine use. They'll tell you, how how many feet (there and back) of wire, supplying how many amps, what size cable you will need for a 3-5% voltage drop. That's the smallest cable you want to use, if you size up one guage the lights WILL run brighter.
The D in the BCDC1225D is "dual input". Meaning it can accept solar and alternator inputs, whereas the old BCDC1225 needed a change over relay to run solar.
If your using chassis mounted grounds, you should be wire wheeling or sanding back to bare metal, attaching your earth then give it a hit with some paint to stop rusting. Otherwise you can run into dramas with a poor earth, especially with high current draws like dcdc chargers or lights/winches etc
Another great vid Ronny, You need to cover the facts that there is such a thing as too much light, whilst you setup suits your needs anyone who drives primarily on highways & country roads this much light will only serve to wash out any details in close and effectively blind you when you need to dip back to low beam..
Radio Antenna: with the roof popped the range will decrease in directions front and rear, and will be nearly identical sideways. As it is an antenna with (at least advertised) gain and vertical radiation, the HF signal spreads like a donut around the antenna.
In regards to UHF antenna wire next to high current cables, I had pretty much no choice but to run mine next to the high current cable for the amp for a short stretch in the engine bay. But it's no big deal and doesn't ruin my signal since I'm never listening to music at high volume (or at all) when I'm talking on the UHF. No current flowing through the amp supply cable = no magnetic field in the cable to spoil the UHF signal.
for me for general comms I would be keeping 3 coms 2 in UHF keeping 1 in 80 chan narrow band and the other in wideband because you are likely to access farms this way and also have a 27MHz radio for longer distance communications needs... Noting if tag along tours of more than 3 vehicle at 5 watt pep you have a radius of 2.5 km from antenna, for over lap of signal 4.5 km range between 2 radios, for longer distances I tend to stick with 12 watt lsb/usb HF comms
1:35 My biggest issue at the moment is that I have all the wiring and components for my front dual battery setup...yep, my plan is the same as yours, to power the lights, electric fan, and one day a winch, but do you think I can find a spot in the engine bay of the V6 Courier? About my only option is to reroute the air intake and filter box.
The public wants to know: How many watts / amps for all added lights? How many lumens? I'll just divide your numbers by ten and that's what I need. Thanks.
Great tip on the engine bay for coms. I fixed radios for years and em interference is a bitch! I just run a Midland base camp 5W. Seems to be enough for at least a mile over any terrain. It's portable and I just sit it on the passenger seat. Works for me, but not needing near the coverage you do. I run two 3W handhelds for my pals and it seems to work fine.
Ronny Dahl with regards to antennas. An antenna with no gain will send out a signal in the shape more like a ball. The higher gain you go the further it travels but it’s Omni direction changes to more like a dinner plate. So putting your antenna on a slope, as it is with the roof up doesn’t necessarily mean you gain anything as the “dinner plate” is on a slope. It will lower the range in both directions by hitting the ground earlier on the down slope and going over the top of the distant radios.
He's not driving around with the roof up... the roof was up when he showed position, umm that's not how it travels. It will operate as you pointed out it should when driving.
@@brettleonard8602 yes I realise that but he said he was going to check the range with it up. I’m explaining what happens to the radiation pattern of the antenna when it changes from being vertical to being on a slope
@@Ronny_Dahl yes I realise that. What I’m saying is the radiation pattern of the antenna changes when it is no longer vertical. It has nothing to do with the vehicle, just the change in antenna angle. You said you were going to test the range with the roof up compared to it being down.
@@malcolmL995 I don't disagree with you there mate. Ad a bracket and he could swivel it to "level" again easy fix. I think he's actually at more risk of taking the antenna out at that position way too high on the passenger side. Drivers side would be best option I would think trees grow from passenger side over a track. Pretty cool feature though with the plotting though.
I'm the one that always tells you the same about lights on the roof. Just at least put some extrensions (like inferior visiors") below the bar light... so the light beam doesn't "touch" the windscreen nor the bonnet.
My (thoroughly illegal onroad) driving lights gave me the extra second to @@@@ in my pants instead of taking a deer out of season at 4AM., Worth every penny.
Hi Ronny, informative as usual. Haven't seen Chris n his Prado for a while has he moved on? Cheers for bringing us another hands on style video, looking forward to the next one
What brackets are you running for your light bars off the front runner rack? I’m trying to find some nice ones for my dual row off the front runner rack but the front runner ones make it sit to high.
How much torsional rigidity is lost with the roof cut and replace and loss of cross connection ? Can't see additional strengthing to compensate for the change.
Hey, Ronny...I would like to know where to lead wires from side and roof lights ? I have old 1984. 60 series and I'd like to avoid making holes in the roof, or lead wires along the roof, or through rain gutters.. I assume that drill a hole or two i the roof is only neat method to do it, but what to do with connectors/wires when i need to take down roof rack? I won't praise your videos, because i don't do things like that, but even so,almost every educational video of yours is very good and i learned a lot... Greetings from Croatia...
Troopy is coming along well. Can't wait to get my hands on the XRS 390c in a few weeks. I know a few people that have the XRS radios and love them so am very keen to get my hands on one. I run 2 radios in the car already plus have 2 hand held's in the centre console for spotting, bush walking etc etc.
For your green screen shots you should do some static video backgrounds and warm your in studio shots 👍 you wont tell the difference between foreground and background
What happened to this channel? Used to be one of my favorites. Not saying anyone owes me a damn thing just that I am sad there are no trips and when there are trips they just don't have the same vibe they did before at all. 😕
Loving the troopy build vids mate.. the GME & antenna stuff was super interesting too.. would love to hear a bit more about why you chose that new exhaust in the future too ❤️
Love your channel, bought your t shirt, dont have a troopy. Are you filming anything else these days? Or are you changing the name of your channel to troopy wheel drive Australia. I'll wait a bit longer before i move on. 👍
Hi Ronny, If you have your Ears on !!!!!!! could you tell me where you got the Fuse Plate and bracket setup for the Drivers side. Also what size cable did you run around the back 35mm 50mm???
This is not a short comment… A damn good episode! Thank you, Ronny. About the extra lights …. You’re right on every detail BUT the second battery. I’ve wired massive amounts of extra lights on my vehicles for the past 30 years. I always do it the same way. My wiring has never failed me. (Meaning, in parts you’re dead wrong my friend). It is the amp’s produced by the alternator that is our limit - NOT the battery. The battery is only an equalizing unit from the alternator to the consuming source. Meaning, if we have an alternator that give us 100 amps we can have an electrical consumption of 1200-1480 watts. Because if the alternator give us 12 volts times 100 amps it equals 1200 watts of consumption. If we have an alternator giving us 14.8 volts times 100 amps it equals 1480 watts of consumption. Please keep in mind not to overload the alternator’s capacity because it’s a pretty expensive part to replace. On my old 1997 HiLux in Sweden I had 1 Lux at around 2500 meters distance. Today, on my 2022 Jimny in Central America, I have 1 Lux at around 800-1000 meters. FYI: 1 Lux is what you need to read a news paper or a book. 1 Lux is what we get from one candle light / candle flame. In the old days Watts was the value to look for. Nowadays (with LED lights) it’s Lumens and Lux. Lumens is the value of a light source. Lux is the value of the light reflected from a surface. At noon the Lux value of the sun is about 30’000 to 100’000, depending on the weather conditions. Today, on my Jimny, I have a THEORETICAL Lumens value that by far exceeds 48’000. This means that at 800-1000 meters in front of my car it gives me a value of 1 Lux. About my Jimny - From the battery to the last light/lamp/ of the harness on the roof rack I have a loss of current that is less than 0.2 Volts. I consider this a very good result. - Explanation… 1. Wire thickness is way more important than most people realize. Google for wire charts and use a wire one level thicker than your chart recommends. 2. Use Bosch relays. Cheap relays are crap. 3. Solder all connections to minimize loss of current. Zip tie all soldered connections as the soldered points are very sensitive to vibrations. 4. Use dielectric grease wherever water might interfere with the electrical infrastructure. 5. All extra lights should be connected to the original high beam. If you can turn your extra lights on in LOW-BEAM MODE you haven’t installed your extra lights correctly. 6. Consider replacing your regular halogen H4’s with the LED H4’s from X7-Seven. They are by far the best buck for your money. The same thing goes for your DRL’s/fog lights. 7. …and while you’re at it - consider replacing the rest of your halogen bulbs with GTR’s from HeadLight Revolution. I’ve done all the above in my Jimny and I have brighter lights than any other. - As I’m a radar engineer, yes, Ronny, you are 100% correct regarding radio electrical interference. Proof of that…? Check the wiring along your door sills. One side is positive, the other is negative. Never, NEVER, does the two share the same side. 21:25
Two points you may be dead wrong on my friend … LED globes in vehicles where not originally an option or fittment from factory is illegal … you can’t just retro fit them to any vehicle, they’re not ADR compliant nor would the vehicle be. 😉 And yes, you should always run power down one side and communications or a radio antenna coaxial down the opposite, been doing this for years and agree with Ronny, you can get A LOT of interference through the radio from the engine and / or the alternator. I’ve fitted many big car audio systems over the years, some comp’ type setups, and it was always common practice to avoid interference, something more prevalent in older cars with points as opposed to electronic ignition. Some setups even needed interference suppressors put inline to help aid in reducing the whirring sounds coming through the system. Great clip Ronny as always mate 👍😉
@@4WheelingInNSW Thank you for correcting me. When I wrote my comment I didn’t think of how privileged I am living in Central America. Here we don’t have the rules and regulations regarding lights and other stuff you have in Australia. - You are absolutely right, any country’s regulations must be respected.
Great video Ronnie, I was thinking of installing a duel battery system on my little road runner like I had I'm my Jeep but $1700 is a lot of money, I'm thinking positive and negative feed through solenoid to secondary with feed back through cab rocker switch to starter basically a back up, I don't think I'd run the roof lights or cb from it but handy for inverter powered tools when necessary, what do you think? Love the troopy by the way, 👍🚙👌🇨🇮
So for any the sparkies out there, (I know a bit but I just make things cold) I've always wondered why you can't have too much on one ground? (Earth) 😊🤘🇨🇦
It's not a good idea to illuminate the hood with roof-mounted lights. In this place on the roof it's clever to install high beams (small angle) only. Nice video as always.
If you're only using the 2nd battery in the engine bay to lessen the load for high current why not just run the 2 batteries and parallel and skip the whole DCDC & isolator?
I’ll loose the ability to jumpstart the vehicle if both are flat then. Also if both are parallel 💯 of the time they will both die the same time. You can only change the batteries as high as the lesser one will accept.
Might be time for you to do a vid about safety of driving on our highways with those bloody massive lights on. I've had enough of being blinded by idiots who don't dip their lights.
Why not a 50 watt ham radio and 50km of range? I've gotten up to 70 miles without a repeater, just line of sight. It's SO worth getting your ham licenses.
Only real question here is what frequencies are you talking about. If UHF CB in Aus then 50 watts is illegal and exceeding 5 watts carries serious fines
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 Cheers, mate. I started mounting them day before yesterday but the rain stopped me. I'll finish it today. I don't have a roo bar so I've made some mounts for them. I'll pop a video up when I'm finished.
Maté modified runs monthly not sure why you haven’t seen them and troopy is being built for travel. I’m not building it for the sake of building if that makes sense 😎
There was a episode of Modified a couple weeks ago and a Touring trip with the Troopy a couple weeks before that Dude can't cross the Simpson Desert every month
@@Ronny_Dahl i have to check your channel manually to see previous videos you uploaded....a bit weird this time since before this i get new videos suggestions from your channel hence why i ask about the lack of content
If you look online, there are calculators for voltage loss in "12" volt wiring. Mainly for marine use. They'll tell you, how how many feet (there and back) of wire, supplying how many amps, what size cable you will need for a 3-5% voltage drop. That's the smallest cable you want to use, if you size up one guage the lights WILL run brighter.
Back in my day, all we needed was a kerosene lamp!
Back in my day, with had 2 sticks and a rock, and we had to share the rock.
@@4G12 😂🤣🤣
The D in the BCDC1225D is "dual input". Meaning it can accept solar and alternator inputs, whereas the old BCDC1225 needed a change over relay to run solar.
If your using chassis mounted grounds, you should be wire wheeling or sanding back to bare metal, attaching your earth then give it a hit with some paint to stop rusting. Otherwise you can run into dramas with a poor earth, especially with high current draws like dcdc chargers or lights/winches etc
That hot battery wire wrapped to the far side should also be fused at the battery. If it got pinched in a wreck...
Another great vid Ronny,
You need to cover the facts that there is such a thing as too much light, whilst you setup suits your needs anyone who drives primarily on highways & country roads this much light will only serve to wash out any details in close and effectively blind you when you need to dip back to low beam..
Looks like I'm gonna be buying one of those GME radios. Loving the content and learning lots. Thanks!
Radio Antenna: with the roof popped the range will decrease in directions front and rear, and will be nearly identical sideways. As it is an antenna with (at least advertised) gain and vertical radiation, the HF signal spreads like a donut around the antenna.
In regards to UHF antenna wire next to high current cables, I had pretty much no choice but to run mine next to the high current cable for the amp for a short stretch in the engine bay. But it's no big deal and doesn't ruin my signal since I'm never listening to music at high volume (or at all) when I'm talking on the UHF. No current flowing through the amp supply cable = no magnetic field in the cable to spoil the UHF signal.
No one cares what you did
for me for general comms I would be keeping 3 coms 2 in UHF keeping 1 in 80 chan narrow band and the other in wideband because you are likely to access farms this way and also have a 27MHz radio for longer distance communications needs...
Noting if tag along tours of more than 3 vehicle at 5 watt pep you have a radius of 2.5 km from antenna, for over lap of signal 4.5 km range between 2 radios, for longer distances I tend to stick with 12 watt lsb/usb HF comms
I like using 5 or 7 core trailer wire to run through the firewall between the switches and relays.
1:35 My biggest issue at the moment is that I have all the wiring and components for my front dual battery setup...yep, my plan is the same as yours, to power the lights, electric fan, and one day a winch, but do you think I can find a spot in the engine bay of the V6 Courier? About my only option is to reroute the air intake and filter box.
The public wants to know:
How many watts / amps for all added lights?
How many lumens?
I'll just divide your numbers by ten and that's what I need. Thanks.
Great tip on the engine bay for coms. I fixed radios for years and em interference is a bitch! I just run a Midland base camp 5W. Seems to be enough for at least a mile over any terrain. It's portable and I just sit it on the passenger seat. Works for me, but not needing near the coverage you do. I run two 3W handhelds for my pals and it seems to work fine.
Thanks for all your videos always look forward to them.
Ronny Dahl with regards to antennas. An antenna with no gain will send out a signal in the shape more like a ball. The higher gain you go the further it travels but it’s Omni direction changes to more like a dinner plate. So putting your antenna on a slope, as it is with the roof up doesn’t necessarily mean you gain anything as the “dinner plate” is on a slope. It will lower the range in both directions by hitting the ground earlier on the down slope and going over the top of the distant radios.
It’s on the roof to prevent the vehicle from blocking the signal 😃
He's not driving around with the roof up... the roof was up when he showed position, umm that's not how it travels. It will operate as you pointed out it should when driving.
@@brettleonard8602 yes I realise that but he said he was going to check the range with it up. I’m explaining what happens to the radiation pattern of the antenna when it changes from being vertical to being on a slope
@@Ronny_Dahl yes I realise that. What I’m saying is the radiation pattern of the antenna changes when it is no longer vertical. It has nothing to do with the vehicle, just the change in antenna angle. You said you were going to test the range with the roof up compared to it being down.
@@malcolmL995 I don't disagree with you there mate. Ad a bracket and he could swivel it to "level" again easy fix. I think he's actually at more risk of taking the antenna out at that position way too high on the passenger side. Drivers side would be best option I would think trees grow from passenger side over a track. Pretty cool feature though with the plotting though.
I'm the one that always tells you the same about lights on the roof. Just at least put some extrensions (like inferior visiors") below the bar light... so the light beam doesn't "touch" the windscreen nor the bonnet.
Or just use narrow high beam lights if installed on the roof :) But your advice is great anyway :)
THANK YOU FOR SUPER DETIALED VIDEO AS SHOW WATCH OUT SETUP UNIT IN 4X4 TOUR
Great video man!
Great episode Ronny. Good aerial placement.
“Height is might”
Up to your own discrepancy - 😂 (discretion?)
Why so many lights?
My (thoroughly illegal onroad) driving lights gave me the extra second to @@@@ in my pants instead of taking a deer out of season at 4AM., Worth every penny.
Fantastic content n realworld experience, Is that a new car for Torben I spy, looking forward to the modified episode on that
Hi Ronny, informative as usual. Haven't seen Chris n his Prado for a while has he moved on? Cheers for bringing us another hands on style video, looking forward to the next one
Great Ronny. Popular topic these type of videos.
Question, did you have to extend the cable to the antenna ?
What brackets are you running for your light bars off the front runner rack? I’m trying to find some nice ones for my dual row off the front runner rack but the front runner ones make it sit to high.
How much torsional rigidity is lost with the roof cut and replace and loss of cross connection ? Can't see additional strengthing to compensate for the change.
Wow so beautiful troopi my big dream but i m very poor ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Soft and squishy... I bet 95% of all male viewers did not think of marshmallows.
Hey, Ronny...I would like to know where to lead wires from side and roof lights ? I have old 1984. 60 series and I'd like to avoid making holes in the roof, or lead wires along the roof, or through rain gutters.. I assume that drill a hole or two i the roof is only neat method to do it, but what to do with connectors/wires when i need to take down roof rack?
I won't praise your videos, because i don't do things like that, but even so,almost every educational video of yours is very good and i learned a lot...
Greetings from Croatia...
Troopy is coming along well. Can't wait to get my hands on the XRS 390c in a few weeks. I know a few people that have the XRS radios and love them so am very keen to get my hands on one. I run 2 radios in the car already plus have 2 hand held's in the centre console for spotting, bush walking etc etc.
For your green screen shots you should do some static video backgrounds and warm your in studio shots 👍 you wont tell the difference between foreground and background
What happened to this channel? Used to be one of my favorites. Not saying anyone owes me a damn thing just that I am sad there are no trips and when there are trips they just don't have the same vibe they did before at all. 😕
A big flinders edit is in the pipeline and building the troopy to travel interstate.
Loving the troopy build vids mate.. the GME & antenna stuff was super interesting too.. would love to hear a bit more about why you chose that new exhaust in the future too ❤️
Holding onto the exhaust stuff until all engine mods and tune is done 🙌
Hi Ron, With your Cable run from the Battery I notice you have a Fuse Holder mounted on the side of the Body, did you use a Rivnut for that or ??
Your videos are top notch!
THanks RD
The one I always wonder, is how folks run the wires to the roof lights. Do they drill a hole in the roof?
Nice 😊
Please share details abput the solenoid?
Are you going to change out the side mirrors?
Looking good 🤙🕶
Love your channel, bought your t shirt, dont have a troopy. Are you filming anything else these days? Or are you changing the name of your channel to troopy wheel drive Australia. I'll wait a bit longer before i move on. 👍
Hi Ronny, If you have your Ears on !!!!!!! could you tell me where you got the Fuse Plate and bracket setup for the Drivers side. Also what size cable did you run around the back 35mm 50mm???
Offroad living in wangara has the busbar fuses that I used.
Bracket was just bent up to suit the PDP fuel management kit.
Cable size was 6B&S
@@Ronny_Dahl Excellent Thanks Ronny !!!!!!!
This is not a short comment…
A damn good episode! Thank you, Ronny.
About the extra lights …. You’re right on every detail BUT the second battery.
I’ve wired massive amounts of extra lights on my vehicles for the past 30 years. I always do it the same way. My wiring has never failed me. (Meaning, in parts you’re dead wrong my friend).
It is the amp’s produced by the alternator that is our limit - NOT the battery. The battery is only an equalizing unit from the alternator to the consuming source.
Meaning, if we have an alternator that give us 100 amps we can have an electrical consumption of 1200-1480 watts.
Because if the alternator give us 12 volts times 100 amps it equals 1200 watts of consumption.
If we have an alternator giving us 14.8 volts times 100 amps it equals 1480 watts of consumption.
Please keep in mind not to overload the alternator’s capacity because it’s a pretty expensive part to replace.
On my old 1997 HiLux in Sweden I had 1 Lux at around 2500 meters distance. Today, on my 2022 Jimny in Central America, I have 1 Lux at around 800-1000 meters. FYI: 1 Lux is what you need to read a news paper or a book. 1 Lux is what we get from one candle light / candle flame.
In the old days Watts was the value to look for. Nowadays (with LED lights) it’s Lumens and Lux. Lumens is the value of a light source. Lux is the value of the light reflected from a surface.
At noon the Lux value of the sun is about 30’000 to 100’000, depending on the weather conditions.
Today, on my Jimny, I have a THEORETICAL Lumens value that by far exceeds 48’000. This means that at 800-1000 meters in front of my car it gives me a value of 1 Lux.
About my Jimny -
From the battery to the last light/lamp/ of the harness on the roof rack I have a loss of current that is less than 0.2 Volts. I consider this a very good result.
-
Explanation…
1. Wire thickness is way more important than most people realize. Google for wire charts and use a wire one level thicker than your chart recommends.
2. Use Bosch relays. Cheap relays are crap.
3. Solder all connections to minimize loss of current. Zip tie all soldered connections as the soldered points are very sensitive to vibrations.
4. Use dielectric grease wherever water might interfere with the electrical infrastructure.
5. All extra lights should be connected to the original high beam. If you can turn your extra lights on in LOW-BEAM MODE you haven’t installed your extra lights correctly.
6. Consider replacing your regular halogen H4’s with the LED H4’s from X7-Seven. They are by far the best buck for your money. The same thing goes for your DRL’s/fog lights.
7. …and while you’re at it - consider replacing the rest of your halogen bulbs with GTR’s from HeadLight Revolution. I’ve done all the above in my Jimny and I have brighter lights than any other.
-
As I’m a radar engineer, yes, Ronny, you are 100% correct regarding radio electrical interference.
Proof of that…?
Check the wiring along your door sills.
One side is positive, the other is negative. Never, NEVER, does the two share the same side. 21:25
Two points you may be dead wrong on my friend …
LED globes in vehicles where not originally an option or fittment from factory is illegal … you can’t just retro fit them to any vehicle, they’re not ADR compliant nor would the vehicle be. 😉
And yes, you should always run power down one side and communications or a radio antenna coaxial down the opposite, been doing this for years and agree with Ronny, you can get A LOT of interference through the radio from the engine and / or the alternator.
I’ve fitted many big car audio systems over the years, some comp’ type setups, and it was always common practice to avoid interference, something more prevalent in older cars with points as opposed to electronic ignition. Some setups even needed interference suppressors put inline to help aid in reducing the whirring sounds coming through the system.
Great clip Ronny as always mate 👍😉
@@4WheelingInNSW
Thank you for correcting me. When I wrote my comment I didn’t think of how privileged I am living in Central America. Here we don’t have the rules and regulations regarding lights and other stuff you have in Australia.
- You are absolutely right, any country’s regulations must be respected.
Where did you get those light bar brackets? AWA?
Great video Ronnie, I was thinking of installing a duel battery system on my little road runner like I had I'm my Jeep but $1700 is a lot of money, I'm thinking positive and negative feed through solenoid to secondary with feed back through cab rocker switch to starter basically a back up, I don't think I'd run the roof lights or cb from it but handy for inverter powered tools when necessary, what do you think? Love the troopy by the way,
👍🚙👌🇨🇮
That would work. Just make sure you got the right size fuses everywhere
can i get a link to the dual battery linking switch please, mine would be for a 120 series but think it would fit
So for any the sparkies out there,
(I know a bit but I just make things cold)
I've always wondered why you can't have too much on one ground? (Earth) 😊🤘🇨🇦
Yep learnt the hard way. Just glad we problem solved it fast as we could have been looking for ages.
D=Dual Input, Alt and Solar
Ahhhh makes sense now 😅
$1700-00 what a rip OFF did mine on the 80series for a few hundred dollars same result 😋
My thoughts exactly. BCDC 12250 - $400-$500, solenoid - $200 if using Redarc - and wiring? Must have shares in company.
I forgot to add in the battery tray for anything up $400 these days, but still an expensive kit.
@@jamessmith-fy7bv my set up all up with red arc $250. I suppose these new age city people have no idea How to do things(they got to much money 💰😁
Very informative vid mate. Left field Q: ever had trouble closing Wolfpack FR black box lids/latches? I do regularly…
Only really on some of it’s the first time.
If they do unlatch and start again.
The hi lids are at first but afterwards they seem to be the best
Whoopy! A new video!! Nice
What was that app again that matches up with the radio? Also any plans to come wheel in the states?
It's not a good idea to illuminate the hood with roof-mounted lights. In this place on the roof it's clever to install high beams (small angle) only. Nice video as always.
If you're only using the 2nd battery in the engine bay to lessen the load for high current why not just run the 2 batteries and parallel and skip the whole DCDC & isolator?
I’ll loose the ability to jumpstart the vehicle if both are flat then.
Also if both are parallel 💯 of the time they will both die the same time. You can only change the batteries as high as the lesser one will accept.
Torbs has a new 4wd?
Might be time for you to do a vid about safety of driving on our highways with those bloody massive lights on. I've had enough of being blinded by idiots who don't dip their lights.
Do you up grade your Headlight bulbs as many overlook this first?
I have not and likely will in saying that the fog lights make up for any lack
@@Ronny_Dahl hope their yellow 😁
Why not a 50 watt ham radio and 50km of range? I've gotten up to 70 miles without a repeater, just line of sight. It's SO worth getting your ham licenses.
Nobody in Australia uses ham radio
@@dalep-i4844 well they do actually, it’s amateur radio. Heaps of them out there. No, I’m not one.
Only real question here is what frequencies are you talking about. If UHF CB in Aus then 50 watts is illegal and exceeding 5 watts carries serious fines
Used to have one 8 years ago but found it more of a novelty to have it and not many others have them
@@malcolmL995 yes there are those weird blokes sitting at home talking on them but nobody in the 4WD world is using it for communication.
any reason you didnt get the XRS-330COBG that comes with gps?
That wasn’t out when I got mine.
I’ve been sitting on my 330c for a few months
Lol, you Aussies more money than cents. 🎉
Why put the battery on the turbo side of the engine ?
Only place it will fit and they go fine on that spot. 9 years had one in the 79.
Usually it’s the crank battery I cook in the 40c+ for days on end
I've got a set of spotlights with similar dimensions to yours. Do they have any effect on radiator airflow?
Never noticed any negative affects or changes to the temps.
Runs the same as before 79-82c when it was 40c in the Outback it ran at 85c
@@Ronny_Dahl Awesome. I'll mount mine and see what happens. Cheers, Ronny.
@@BradGryphonn l got 4lights in front on the 80 for years *Never* had a problem.
@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 Cheers, mate. I started mounting them day before yesterday but the rain stopped me. I'll finish it today. I don't have a roo bar so I've made some mounts for them. I'll pop a video up when I'm finished.
@@BradGryphonn 👍🤠
Would you mount antenna on back or front roof of 4wd?
The rear is 💯 easier. If mounting on the front you’d be running more wires
Running the the rear is reachable with the cable to the front of the roof you’d likely need to extend the wire
D = dual input 🤷♂️
Sheeesh im early
Why less adventure touring offroading videos nowadays in this channel?and no more modified episode?
Maté modified runs monthly not sure why you haven’t seen them and troopy is being built for travel.
I’m not building it for the sake of building if that makes sense 😎
Flogging products to the plebs pays more.
There was a episode of Modified a couple weeks ago and a Touring trip with the Troopy a couple weeks before that
Dude can't cross the Simpson Desert every month
@@Ronny_Dahl i have to check your channel manually to see previous videos you uploaded....a bit weird this time since before this i get new videos suggestions from your channel hence why i ask about the lack of content
@@dolguldur4706if you click the bell icon on his channel you can change how you’re notified of new videos.