My thoughts on a touring set-up when you have a family. The reality is that when you have a medium to large family, you need a wagon. Extra seats, enclosed area for shopping, etc, wagons are just better family cars (unless you want to spend more on canopies and luggage organising systems for utes, but your still limited with seats. Also, realistically, who can afford a Y62 or a 200? Not many. So, touring with a family in your wagon. Put the essentials on your vehicle to protect it. Don't have to get heavy weight everything, but at least rock sliders, a tubular bull bar, a winch. Then to go touring, get a camper trailer. You can put all your gear, fridge, extra fuel, water etc in that. It then becomes feasable to use your wagon for touring. Plus, you now have the flexibility to unhitch the trailer and do day trips without the extra weight. You don't have that option if you have a 'hero' touring vehicle. Just my thoughts.
if you buy a y62 or 200,,,,your not going 4x4ing.or anywhere serious.they both have ifs,big no no..stay on the bitumen.dirt roads.theres no choice for a decent vehicle in this country.like a nissan titan,or toyota tundra.NOT,mall crawlers..
25:56 Ronnie inadvertently reveals his next vehicle, the Great Wall Steed! No one would know anything on one of those things offhand unless they've already bought one 👌 Congrats Ronnie 👍 👀 😆
Great tips on this. I especially loved hearing "drive your vehicle before doing anything to it at all." I can't tell you how often I see people modding their vehicles before ever taking it anywhere. I've removed several things from my "expected mod" list just simply by testing it in stock form and then slowly adding things here and there over the years as I see needed. It's amazing what you don't *need* when you have the right vehicles or only have access to limited locations
Ronny your warming my heart.... Live here in Perth and looking towards the end of 2022 full time retirement and doing serious research on what 4x4 to buy. Your honesty really is great.... I will get more info from you & your videos and if need be DM You Keep up the great work mate....
I just went for a '23 Gladiator Rubicon. Just using it for camping mainly, but it can basically go anywhere and saved a little over ten grand after heavy bargaining with the dealer.😊 I'm not in Australia so I'm sure that makes a difference.
i know Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
@Ernesto Lane Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@@ianfarr-wharton1000 yeah no idea why you'd pay more for less? I've been test-driving the lot in the last couple of months. Im ready to buy now. And it's not a hilux$. Theres no way ots worth it. I can get a wildtrack with dealer options for roughly sr5 prices once it's optioned.
@@ianfarr-wharton1000 why would I buy a Triton which isn’t half as reliable as a Toyota?? Toyota is far from dead, Mitsubishi isn’t as reliable as Toyota.
Its nothing special. Just an approved and tested suspension kit fitted, a new mod plate and a registration with main roads. Its all bit of a rort tbh, no upgrading of brakes chassis bracing ect ect.
advice: make a weight budget and good faith estimates of everything you want to add/carry to the vehicle long before you buy. Your weight budget will determine your which vehicle you buy. Worst thing that can happen is you buy the wrong vehicle before you know the gear load. The white board of truth was a good starting point. Great video! weight budget planning > vehicle cost budget. You can always buy an older vehicle that can carry what you want/need to be happy.
Howdy Ronny couple of things about white paint (not pearly, I mean flat glacier white) it's much cooler which is great if you're parked up in the sun at camp. It's got no clear coat so won't suffer from clear coat failure as it ages. And it's so easy to touch up paint, no problems blending metallic specks and clear coat. It's simple single pack standard white paint. Even a politician can fix it.
I am far from an expert but I can see , that you have put a lot of though & experience into how you communicate all of this. You broke it down to simple & logical. Really great video Ronny!
Unless you have a compliance plate for the upgrades with the new GVM your GVM is unchanged from what the factory spec is irrespective of what upgrades have been done. It has to be certified with the Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Cities and Regional Development.
@@Wdeane1957 You made a good point. I am building a heavily modified 4wd drive, starting with the chassis & Body. In Victoria @ least, the whole thing of getting a GVM upgrade is a contentious thing. I asked if my chassis could be built & certified with a higher GVM & I only got a very vague & non committal answer from the engineer I when to for my build. To be clear I paid the engineer well to answer those questions. In my situation it is more complex because it is not just a case of bolt on component & maybe low invasive weld in braces & reinforcements. The more deep you go with complexity down the rabbit hole the harder it is to be certain your are getting the right or best information, especially from gov agencies. Many show up spinning a great story about their expertise but few will put it in writing. There have been instance where I have gone to 8 or more individuals in government, all claiming they know their stuff, all telling a different story but not willing to put there "reputation" to document. I have had a few similar experiences with Engineers. Just because they are "Engineers" does not mean they are good @ what they do. If you are not an engineer, then it can be quite difficult to know a good one from one that is not so good. It is frustrating, I want quality & happy to more for it. I pay my invoices to all involved in my project on time. There are more than a few fearful ego mind princesses that show up. I wonder if I will ever get it completed. It is know on pause with stage 4 restrictions & I know I have to be understanding & patient with that. But the difficulty is my situation occurred well be for this pandemic thing, issues occurred pretty much from the beginning. I went pretty detailed with my homework before getting the vehicle builder to start. So for all the trials & challenges that I have had with it, I wonder what level of drama I might of endured this far if I had not done all of that.
For lots of reasons I'd personally never consider the Cybertruck as an option, but the payload capacity on that thing is a whopping 1,588 kilos! That's nearly 3x that of my Bronco Badsquatch. Anyways Ronny, thanks for another helpful video. This was instrumental in helping me to plan my next build.
Great work Ronny! Probably we should bolt less stuff to our car, take less stuff and if we want to take the grand piano, just take a box trailer! Your video on trailers is a very good example of how to spread the load when camping with the family. 👍
just walked 90 miles over the cascades with a 15 pound pack less food..... adding a cooler some ice and a pillow sounds so luxurious! looking at a tacoma to replace my much-loved but pretty small patriot. Thanks so much for the video, super helpful.
Prado 150 GX (base model) has a 750 Kg payload. That 550 Kg figure shown on the whiteboard must be for a Kakadu (bloated top spec). And that is with the kerb weight including 150 L of diesel. Advice: get the base model for better payload (and to save money).
Fantastic work Ronny! You're getting better at this. As i said before in other videos, that's the biggest mistake people make when buying a ute....putting a heavy steel tray on it. For touring it is an absolute waste of strength and weight. You only need a steel tray for heavy mining or farming applications. I saved about 200kgs on my 79 by ordering a heavy duty alloy troy from factory and even with a full sized alloy canopy on the tray it is STILL lighter than having just a steel tray. The canopy weighs about 150kgs with drawers and a full size shelf 2 thirds up. I've done the Oodnadatta track, West Mereenie Loop, Rainbow Valley etc on some of the roughest outback tracks and the alloy tray has handled it no worries. The key is not to overload your tray. Just take what you need and your vehicle will love you for it. And i still run stock suspension as i haven't overloaded my vehicle.
On the 79 series v MU-X comparison you've quoted the GVM of the MU-X as 2650 kgs. That is for the 4x2 model, not 4x4, which most touring set-ups would use. The 4x4 GVM is 2750 kgs giving you an extra 100 kgs, not much but a small improvement for comparison purposes. The payload for the mid level 4x4 LSU (according to Redbook) is 608kgs.
Great video Ronny mate, my wife and I are in about 18 months or so will be buying the new Dmax which will be ideal for our needs. And yes I will be looking at GVM and GCM upgrades plus a brake upgrade as I do believe a lot of people don't even think about how the extra weight effects the stopping power of the factory brakes.
Hi Chris, I also have a Dmax (on my second actually!). Brake upgrades aren't a bad thing but the brakes on utes are pretty good standard. Hence the higher towing capacities. I would do all your mods first and then see if you're happy with the braking. You may find that factory is still good enough.
@@anthonywhitney634 G'day Anthony, thanks for the feedback mate 👍, this will be our first Dmax as well as brand new car. Eventually I want to fit a tray and canopy and I quote: WIFE: we are getting a caravan first..... She who must be obeyed wants a caravan she will get a caravan 😂. I was thinking with the caravan and eventual tray/canopy set up that a brake upgrade couldn't hurt, but I didn't mention about a caravan in the mix in my original comment. Thanks again mate as it is always great to hear from people who have real life experience in what my wife and I are looking to invest our time and money into, also the main reason we are looking at the Dmax is Isuzu's amazing reliability 👍👍
@@chrishanslow4825 The new D Max should be quite a ripper! We have the older versions and have been more than happy with them. The 2021 Should have much bigger front brakes at around 310mm+ front rotors vs ours 280mm (2011/2012). I think the main secret to safe towing is having your camper / van brakes on point with a decent electric brake controller eg Tow Pro Elite or similar and servicing / adjusting the trailer brakes regularly, replacing the magnets as necessary periodically etc. ( The amount of trailers / vans I see with zero brake effectiveness is actually pretty scary! ) Good luck with it and happy touring!
@@mjhmech4903 cheers mate, my wife and I can't wait and yeah the tow pro will be a priority addition when we do eventually get our caravan. Me personally I'd prefer a camper trailer but my wife wants a park up and relax approach due to us not getting any younger 😂😂 Anyway cheers again mate 👍👍
Thanks Ron, i'm in the "research" stage of getting a 4wd. Your vids are awesome and super helpful! Was leaning towards a Ute but this backs it up even more. Keep up the good work!
Hi Ronny, no doubt all the kit adds weight. I guess one thing to consider is the net weight difference. Remove stock bumper and add HD aftermarket bumper, you need to remove the OE weight from the calculation. Same for suspension and other components. Stuff like the fridge and roof racks will all be adders.
good point John, I am adding Titan drawers to 105 series today, approx 70 kg, but removing 3rd row seats , approx 40 kg, thus only 30 kg gain here, could save more, but hard to justify extra $1000 approx for locally made ? but try to buy Australian where possible !
@@Jesse-2531 haha, all the trucks I buy have steel bumpers. Thin albeit steel bumpers, but every little bit counts. Eg,. I removed non-structural tube steps and added frame mounted structural steel slider/steps. Each were about 90 lbs, the OE ones were ~30 lbs each. I get to subtract that from the 90.
I think this also ushers in the question about bringing a 2nd spare and the hardware to hold it and how many and what spare parts to carry. This is all about risk mgt vs weight savings. How many people have really blown out 2 tires in one trip. Really, if you're only touring, do you need CVs and U joints, ect.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 I agree I'm old school 2 spare inner tubes and some rubber patches for inside the the tyre, I also run all terrains because I believe you can have too much grip sounds crazy but its far far better to spin a wheel than break something.
Cheers Ronny. The key here is knowing what you want the vehicle to do. In my view, comparisons only make sense within a certain class. I'm a Jeep guy, and I freely admit Jeeps aren't the best for payload compared to a UTE. My latest JLU Rubicon is rated at 1210lbs payload or 548 kilos. Keeping the factory lift, 33s, skids and sliders as they're plenty sufficient for what I do. I sleep in the vehicle easily, travel solo, and from Ronny's list only haul the fridge, water, my gear/cargo, and fuel. Using his numbers I'm still 500lbs under limit, even with a hard top. So, It all depends on what a person thinks they actually need, and whether or not they can resist the urge to bolt something to every possible location. Ronny is correct - most of the time folks don't do their calculations, and this gets them into trouble, but I wouldn't shy away from some of the really capable wagon/SUV configurations like the Wrangler, 4runner, FJ, or new Bronco, etc just because their payload numbers are significantly less than a different class of vehicle. The nimble capabilities of smaller rigs are impressive provided weight isn't exceeded.
Also GX has 750-780kg payload (depending on model year) while the Kakadu only has 550. The $30,000 price difference gives you enough cash for the accessories as well. It is a no brainer for me.
Great tutorial, I went thru the same machinations 2 years ago. Here are some additional key considerations: Some vehicles come with factory fit long range fuel tanks (150-180ltr) as part of their Kerb Mass, which is highly desirable. Utes might come with just an 80ltr tank. Monocque hull vehicles are hopeless on corrugated roads, your fillings will rattle out. Vehicles that have a cabin on ladder frame design are far superior. When you are laid-up in a remote town looking for parts you'll be glad you chose a mainstream make/model vehicle. Also, from the Toyota website, load capacities: LC200 gxl and up = 610Kg LC150 gxl and up = 665Kg
Sometimes the comments are as important as the actual vid - yours is one of them RPP - hadn't considered the different between ladder and monocoque off road - I had always assumed the monocoque would be more forgiving...wrong again! Also the point about the Kerb Mass with long range tank...very good info! Cheers, and thanks.
@@MiniLuv-1984 TY. Have driven a Pajero (monocoque hull) along the Gibb River Road a few times and then a Prado (cabin on frame) more recently. The Pajero rides were bone jarring and the dashcam videos showed it. The Prado was infinitely smoother and the dashcam footage a picture of serenity.
@@rp4b449 Wow, like a mentioned that is the opposite of what I had assumed, so really glad you bought that up. I had read somewhere that towing a trailer with a ladder frame vehicle isolates some of the rattle from the cab too, but not much isolation in a monocoque. I do like the Pajero's though, but personally a challenger (with ladder frame) will suit me better.
Excellent video Ronny. Stand out tip for me is drive and get to know your vehicle before modifying it.. I’ve gone full circle now and back to a light, minimal setup and loving it 👍
that's what striked me too, i got 120 and i remember it has something around 800kg payload. and that's just by overweight of the 150 series, which is over 200kg heavier probably, as gross mass is the same. So after all my manual, with no air suspension and 5 seats seems reasonable for a touring base, but automatic with all the stuff probably will go down to this 600kg.
Also need to be careful what manufacturers include in their curb weight. For my previous Everest, Ford only included a full take of fuel. While for my new Disco 5, LR includes 75kg for the driver, engine fluids, and 90% of a full tank of go go juice. That gives the D5 a payload of 890kg vs the Everest of 772kg with no people or fuel. Plus, if towing you need to take the tow ball download into account for your load calcs.
What's real interesting is a 90 series Prado in RV6 3.4L or RV 2.7L & 3.0L form, have a 989kg payload (according to Carsales) which is outstanding and hard to believe its more than the LC200!
Yep, I had a 90 series Prado Grande and with the factory dual zone A/C, sunroof, 6 stacker CD player, electric seats, the payload was 834 kg. Ive now got an Isuzu MU-X LSU and with the standard payload of 610 kgs (Ronnys figures are wrong- they're for the 4x2, not 4x4) I had to get a GVM upgraded (+450 kgs) to fit it out for basic touring and have some leeway for towing a camper trailer.
For an insurer Club 4x4 where brilliant, had one claim with them and it was a breeze. In the end I had to change as I could not afford the 4k per year premium, which every year I was with them was going up (started at 2.5k). Note under 25 and agreed value with 25k mods on a 10k car. Now with shannons and they cover the same places off road, as well as premiums going down every year I get older. GVM I'm my suzuki is always a hard thing to stick to. Have completed strengthening mods to handle greater loads but getting the piece of paper adjusted has been a pain. Though I know she is capable of the loads as I have toured with her at 1.8 ton and she went marvelously. Tbh ride is so much better at that weight. So far everyone I have asked for help has laughed me off. A 150-200kg upgrade would allow me to run the ally canopy again.
Another informative video Ronny. I have just ordered a vehicle that I’m setting up to tour with as well as maybe tackle some more challenging 4wding. What I have found to be difficult and inconsistent information to find, basically resorting to guessing after getting different weights quoted on the same products, is the weight of accessories such as bullbars, canopies, sidesteps etc for model specific products from any of the major suppliers of these products. This adds some challenges as far as planning a build goes. I would have thought this would be a pretty basic information to supply in the specifications of these products. Surely they would have the information from shipping these products etc. I’m sure there is many people who are in the same boat as me on this. A video encouraging manufacturers and suppliers to have this information accurately on hand would be brilliant. Cheers
After market accessories manufacturers can't advertise the weight of an accessory when no one else does...that just means they will lose sales. So without legislation compelling them to publish such info, their customers are left to fend for themselves as many of us have found out.
It should also be mentioned that the Gladiator has a bed installed. So the “load capacity” doesn’t have to account for that. In fact, if you swapped to a lightweight tray you might gain some more capacity back. 725kg with the bed already installed isn’t too shabby.
@@dallasmellsop5488 I think a lot of utes (like the LC79) don't include the tray in the original payload figures. Gladiator would have to being that all trims are tubs. The different specs have vastly different amounts of kit too. I wouldn't expect the rubicon to carry the same as the bottom spec. Lots of different gear.
@@Saphire0437 yeah that's true, and don't get me wrong, I LOVE the gladiator, probaly is my favourite ute, I just still don't see 600-700 kgs as acceptable when like the HiLux and ranger can do so much more
@@dallasmellsop5488 I'd say the trade off there is...and I'm not a fanboy of any particular brand...stock gladiator will go places your typical 1 ton payload dual cabs won't (ranger, hilux, etc). Out of the box. Thats the selling point for the wrangler too. No mods required. Shit load of ability in stock form. If you modify a ranger or a hilux to be just as capable, you've probably added significant weight. Like a solid axle conversion for example. The other car I think of is the ranger raptor. Really really capable offroad out of the box, not great payload compared to the lower ranger trims.
Great video imo. I bought my Mitsi. wagon and we had a weighbridge where I used to work. It is surprising just how quickly you can pile up the weight. A quick google tells me the base model Pajero Sport has a load capacity in base form of 730kg. Sort of up there with the best in the wagons by the look of it. I have made a conscious decision to keep it light and simple for this reason as well as the fact that the vehicle is just a lot more pleasant to drive and use. Plenty of lightweight camping options around without needing coffee machines or big fridges but then I'm not in the slightest interested in doing long range touring. I have toyed with the idea of a lightweight offroad trailer but it hasn't been needed so far. Horses for course I guess and the other important factor is to have the time/money to actually use it rather than it being a mall crawler.
One piece of advice I can give is, do not give in to peer pressure from people who drive older and rougher 4wd's, just because they're happy to bash the crap out of there car doesn't mean you have to
@@intimatespearfisher : Or Get a second Ute - make the family trip a tag-along - safety in numbers. - Hmm, towing a Van to the "back of beyond" in the Gulf country (for example) - how much damage are we expecting out of that - yes yes, boys toys - showin' tha missus how "real aussies" do it in luxus style....
G day Ronny, nice video, for the beginners.... and all who have to change.... to make it suit. One factor I like to mention what counts for me, the handbrakes wish! Yep, that’s correct...you go out with your mates, build a toy truck nothing else. Go 4WD camping and touring with family, Ute, you are strait on it. Last but not least, 4WD touring, camping, with 1 axle trailer towing. Ask the better half if she likes to site in a Ute or work truck !!Decision made, so go and figure out and work it out. Everyone different and with different budgets. Thanks for assistance, I go now a figure out the small print in the 60 page new Insurance offer. Cheers
excellent info mate. the way you explained the GVM stuff was easy to follow and not nearly as dull as just reading about it. even prompted me to calculate mine! the only thing i would add is that you do not need to spend a fortune on a vehicle to get out there. i bought a 300tdi Disco 1 with 280k on it, and have done a lot in it including some epic outback trips etc. i had to spruce it up a bit, but all in for about 8k, including a rooftop tent
re: published figures - do not trust the figures you find on internet wholesale. Even on factory pages, I've found confirmed errors. For example, the brochure for the Tacoma had bad angles figures and when I asked Toyota about it they said, basically "yeah, here are the real numbers, we aren't reprinting that. Thanks." Search around and make sure that a) the numbers from several sources agree b) they are actually for YOUR model, not the most capable version. Make sure the figures make sense too. i.e. the ram power wagon used to claim 14.2 inches ground clearance but its got 33 inch tires with an 11.5 inch ring gear on its rear solid axle. The math doesn't add up since half of 33 minus half of 11.5 alone is less than 14.2. Don't take internet or manufacture figures at face value.
Nice vid. The last part really makes it clear how quickly equipment stacks up against the GVM. You didnt even cross off utes after the 2nd lot of mods... 1070kg crosses off everything on the board except the Ranger & the 79
As a farmer I do not do pure offroading but I need to go through fields, slopes, carry a trailer. After researching I got a simple 1999 first generation Rav4. Makes the job. Reliable. Just 4,500 Euro. Any 1990’s early 2000’s Toyota is a great choice.
Parts availability is a big issue here in some parts of Brazil. Ended up getting a Triton but we looked at all available options. We actually liked the Ranger but all owners we spoke with had issue getting basic parts when bringing in there truck for maintenance. Some had to wait for more than a month just for basic parts. Also I is worth checking if the dealer deals with a lot of vehicles that are heavily used. Here in our state Triton's are used by police, firefighters and other government agencies that go to remote and restricted nature reserves. Because of that the dealer is used to dealing with certain wear on these trucks.
Good info, you covered the 2 regrets I had after buying my hilux (18 inch wheels, since rectified but costly, and the colour}. I now know my guess of you buying a gladiator is wrong!
I reckon Ronnie is going the Ranger for sure. He has a large American following and that’s where most overland/4WD content creators seem to be pitching their direction these days given how much money there is to be made in that market. I’d almost say a Jeep but it’d just end up broken in a shed next to his dads.
Awesome video Ronny. I am a little bit dissapointed though and dont understand why you didnt include the Pajero (i own one and is a more popular choice compared to many cars you mentioned). Pajero has a Payload of over 700kgs (as much as the much larger Patrol). Also, I know you touched on it but i want to remind that people dont need all that equiptment to go touring (which eats away into your load). Also worth mentioning is weight distribution and roof weight capacity which is often overlooked. Thanks again.
GVM weight and acessories. Kerb weight includes a full tank of fuel of the vehicles standard fuel tank. What your missing in payloadbis if the vehicle is towing a camper trailer, boat or caravan is the towbar ball weight! 3.5 tonne (10%) carries a 350kg ball weight which needs to be factored into accessories, payload part of the vehicles GVM
ROBUST COMPLETE AND PERFECT. No other words. Except appreciate all the hard work youve put in to gather all that info and bother to pen it down on the white board. That really reflect your love and commitment for both your own self and your neighbors! Youre really loving your neighbors as yourself!! Hope youve worked on even the 1st great commandment too though (not to jeopardize the 2nd one if youve not, without which the world has become a bad place). God bless you Ronny. God speed.
Payload on the gladiator is lower because it has coil springs not leaf springs. Which also results in better departure angles compared to the other trucks.
@@Jafridasap Different springs and suspension probably. Honestly though you don't need hundreds of kgs of the stuff Ronnie mentioned anyways. He sort of does a really specific long range thing. For Overlanding in NA(where I'm at) I'll never need 1k kms of range. So I don't need 80k of extra weight in fuel or the extra tank to carry it. I don't need 40kg fridge slider, rock sliders or a SIXTH wheel. That alone is well over 200kgs(probably over 300kgs) of unneeded weight.(for me) This isn't a criticism of Ronnies list. He does way more intense stuff further from civilization than I do. But North America is just built different. We're almost NEVER more than 30mins away from a town or somewhere you can refuel. Come to think of it A lot of North America and Central America and South America fit that description.
Hi Ron, Just to add to the list is basic bashplates as a must and start at about 10kgs for basic alloy ones and.......with most dual cabs, a tub canopy at 70kgs for a fully heavy duty braced one. I set up my past ranger without doing the calcs and it weighed in at 2910kgs with out passangers or payload. Which meant I couldn't tow my boat and had to take minimal gear when camping. As Ron said, it all adds up and becomes an expensive mistake if you get it wrong so yes please do your research before buying😉
When I stick to numbers, calculating all the stuff wanted, no way even a ute can help and dreams about an Unimog come. But the reality strikes back and mud tyres come out the only tuning. ^_^ I used to have a bull bar, winches and all the stuff on a previous vehicle, but it turned out that in reality it downgraded the performance and made me too optimistic of car's capabilities.
Great explanation and I look forward to your new rig. One point I feel should be added to the GVM explanation is if towing that the towball weight also has to be added to the vehicles load. I am doing up my ranger at snail pace to make sure it remains suitable and functional while being under the GVM.
There's ways to save money on building a rig. Buy used parts, instead of an extra built in battery 2 portable batteries with a booster pack in backup, build bumpers yourself if you can, do your own mechanic....also wait for sales when possible, shopping online for deals or cheapest options even when looking for good brands. Tire sales too helps lots can save hundreds
Excellent overview! The whiteboard session is a real eye-opener. However you didn't address the fact that virtually all ute owners fit a canopy for overlanding. This also adds considerable weight! So perhaps you could branch this outcome into Overland touring, or a nice modest rig for everyday driving plus long weekend exploring or a nice run up the coast for several days. Thanks, Frank
Great video Ronny, but you left out the best touring wagon the Troopy! LWB same as duel cab 79 good for towing and a load capacity of 975kg without the need for an added tray. GCM at 6.8t with all the GVM upgrades available up to 4.2t. Also the most proven out back platform and spares available Australia wide. Down side is rear access if towing because only from rear and have to step over trailer draw bar 🤷🏼♂️
Remember this is if your gonna be spending a lot of time touring but if your a weekend warrior and maybe just want to cruise off road on a Saturday perhaps an ATV is a way better choice for you.
Great information Ronnie, especially the detailed GVM info. As a person who did fk up and went out and bought a new 4wd without knowing anything about 4wds or 4w driving or modifications or anything this is really really informative. I did have some mods fitted at purchase before I picked up my vehicle from the dealer and now after learning a tonne of important info about my vehicle, modifications, accessories and 4w driving and touring I would do things differently should I ever go to purchase a new 4wd again. Thankfully I did do one smart thing and got a hilux SR5 which I don't regret in the slightest. I think the hilux is awesome. My best piece of advice for someone NEW to owning a 4wd and 4w driving is to buy a cheap 4wd first and join a local 4wd club, watch videos on youtube such as 4wheeling Australia and 4wd 24/7 and others that also pass on valuable 4wd information. Learn as much as you can, from that info then work out what 4wd you want, what modifications and accessories you want/need from the start and what mods/accessories you can get over time. Then start looking for your new 4wd.
I was taking notes during the video... In Costa Rica we can cut that list a lot, but in Australia a some of parts of the list are a "must". Thanks for every piece of info and tips!. Good videos!
I shared the same math at my presentation for overland expo showing it was practically impossible to stay under gvw for a small pickup as well. Also the impact of a RTT on rollover rating. Note for the Utes, still need to add a tray and canopy.
Buy a used one with all the kit, they don't sell for more and you save a fortune :) Been looking at Pajeros, you get just over 700kg between Kerb Weight and GVM, not bad.
Another important point is tow ball weight and GVM, a lot of people will tow a caravan or camper trailer, if the vehicle is already at max GVM before you hitch the trailer then you're going to be overweight also.
Mods and Insurance, recently got a quote from Club 4x4 and they asked for a list of mods and prices. I found that I've decked my Pajero out so far for $4080. That's roof rack, roof cage, light bars, UHF, dual battery set up, DIY Custom built drawer system with drawer fridge, second hand bullbar etc. If you are spending 10K on basic mods you are spending way too much.
I have my eyes on a work friends' 80 series Landcruiser. Original Factory turbo diesel, about 400,000 km and stock as a rock! Never been off road, only towed trailers. No mods at all! Not even a bullbar.
KrAUSerMike get it! 91 or 92 1hdts had a bad batch of big end bearings so be careful on its history or change the big ends if it’s an early model. Absolute beauty of a car though, just do the maintenance and it will go forever. Got a 1hz gxl 80 myself
@@leadingseamanphilbillingto100 Thank mate, his son bought it on trade in (he works for a dealership) and has had it since the start of the year. I have told him how interested I am should he decide to sell it.
@@KrAUSerMike Grab it mate. I have a '91 factory turbo 80 Series in excellent condition. Only just run-in with 300,000kms on the clock. 80 Series' actually have a nice payload of 925kgs or thereabouts. You take the back row seats out, which weigh 22kgs each I think, and you have almost 1 tonne of payload in a wagon! I spent 2 years researching and looking for the right 4wd to build into a tough tourer, and the 80 Series was the only 4wd that made sense and fit into my budget. Plus they're very simple vehicles, any mechanic in a small country town can work on them, parts are everywhere and they are only going up in value. I've already been offered more than I paid for mine. Super capable with only a 2 inch lift on 33's, which is legal here in NSW so no issues with insurance or the fuzz.
Just wanted to add, yes they had issues with big end bearing shells in these early models, but anything getting around now would've had them changed. Mine was done by Toyota well before I bought it and there is a recall placard on the drivers door indicating this. Check for the placard, if not probably better to have them changed for peace of mind. It's not a big job for a qualified mechanic to change them out.
I know in aus and mostly the world the defenders are not known for reliability but their load carrying is amazing! I have a 2008 defender 110sw I took the third row out so I subtracted the weight of the seats from my tare weight. My payload came to 1.2 tons! With all my accessories on and fuel and food plus two people I have 250kg Spare. That’s with out a GVM upgrade
Hey Ronny solid video. You mentioned the rear bar for the wagon but similarly the ute owner often adds a canopy. If comparing apples with apples the waterproof wagon vs ute with canopy would be fair. Another one that should be on the general mods list that is a big weight is changing rims and tyres from what the factory provide (eg in your case maybe 125kg). Also 100% agree about getting the car without all the major mods. Having done it both ways with 2 ute purchases it was far better to make the small modifications as needed vs the fully loaded from the dealer experience. I think most people take the fully loaded option because a) Jonesing, b) the mods are on the loan and c) tax deductions.
Any extra weight capacity is lost in the 200 series as soon as you fill up those massive fuel tanks. Which are great but they don't really have that much extra to play with.
GVM is the issue I ran up against, I noticed a lot of the youtube instagram rigs rolling around were sometimes 1-2k lbs over weight. Most off road vehicles sold in the US have only enough payload capacity to carry their passengers, no mods and no supplies. Half ton trucks were a little better, but once you account for your mods and passengers you don't have enough payload for supplies. I'm having to look at 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks in order to have enough payload for mods, supplies, and passengers with breathing room.
One that really isn't that great as an overlanding vehicle would be the Prado (90 in our case) as there is a real lack of space to put things even before considering load capacity. It has some great features but the lack of room in the back is a continual headache. Buying a good second hand vehicle that has had some extras put on it can save a whole heap of money. Ours came with roo bar, side steps, roof rack, dual battery, spot lights, Reece hitch and it had never been off road. The fit out that we are still working on has cost around $7-8000 to date. We are trying to be as budget conscious as possible without skimping on things like DC-DC charger, fridge and inverter. After watching this, a GVM upgrade is certainly going to be on the list too.
Well I am in the states, but if you tow, make sure the tow rating is at least 1/3 more than the heaviest thing you tow. My Ram is like just under 9,000 lbs tow capacity, as the heaviest part time thing i tow is still under 5,000 lbs . I don't worry as much about the premature wear. I planned for it and purchased the vehicle to do more than I intended. Love the tips on 4 wheeling, My Ram does not do Trails like your Tracks.
Ronny, the problem with the Jeep Gladiator is that for a truck/Ute is that it is running a 5 link rear suspension unlike the 79 Ute or like the Hilux that is running leaf. Now here in the USA with upgraded tow package the Gladiator can tow up to 7600lbs and load capacity of 1600lbs.
Very good info, have had to keep my MU-X under this hence why I have not gotten extended fuel tank for it. Isuzu MU-X GVM is 2750kg though but points still valid. Cheers for content.
My thoughts on a touring set-up when you have a family. The reality is that when you have a medium to large family, you need a wagon. Extra seats, enclosed area for shopping, etc, wagons are just better family cars (unless you want to spend more on canopies and luggage organising systems for utes, but your still limited with seats. Also, realistically, who can afford a Y62 or a 200? Not many.
So, touring with a family in your wagon. Put the essentials on your vehicle to protect it. Don't have to get heavy weight everything, but at least rock sliders, a tubular bull bar, a winch. Then to go touring, get a camper trailer. You can put all your gear, fridge, extra fuel, water etc in that. It then becomes feasable to use your wagon for touring. Plus, you now have the flexibility to unhitch the trailer and do day trips without the extra weight. You don't have that option if you have a 'hero' touring vehicle. Just my thoughts.
Reason why I got a prado, most underestimated 4wd offroad, the tc is amazing and a factory 150l tank.
if you buy a y62 or 200,,,,your not going 4x4ing.or anywhere serious.they both have ifs,big no no..stay on the bitumen.dirt roads.theres no choice for a decent vehicle in this country.like a nissan titan,or toyota tundra.NOT,mall crawlers..
@@phantomwalker8251. Rubbish . The two you named a preferable are TOO LONG . No ramp-over ability .
25:56 Ronnie inadvertently reveals his next vehicle, the Great Wall Steed!
No one would know anything on one of those things offhand unless they've already bought one 👌
Congrats Ronnie 👍
👀
😆
Great tips on this. I especially loved hearing "drive your vehicle before doing anything to it at all." I can't tell you how often I see people modding their vehicles before ever taking it anywhere. I've removed several things from my "expected mod" list just simply by testing it in stock form and then slowly adding things here and there over the years as I see needed. It's amazing what you don't *need* when you have the right vehicles or only have access to limited locations
I have very deep pockets, I can never find my money
Deep pockets And holes...
It also need s to be mentioned that if you're towing, the tow ball weight of the trailer needs to be included in your GVM calculations.
Ronny your warming my heart....
Live here in Perth and looking towards the end of 2022 full time retirement and doing serious research on what 4x4 to buy.
Your honesty really is great....
I will get more info from you & your videos and if need be DM You
Keep up the great work mate....
I just went for a '23 Gladiator Rubicon. Just using it for camping mainly, but it can basically go anywhere and saved a little over ten grand after heavy bargaining with the dealer.😊 I'm not in Australia so I'm sure that makes a difference.
Ronny you didn’t mention the Pajero! You’re killing me!
Ronny was only talking about 4wds
i know Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
@Marc Vincenzo instablaster :)
@Ernesto Lane Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ernesto Lane it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
Ronny starts talking about exceeding GVM's...
*Every touring 100 series owner in Australia stops watching the video*
It’s possible, with a struggle haha. Mine fully setup weights 3190kgs. (With myself and the doggo in it) my GVM is 3260kgs.
Every touring 100 series owner in Australia stops watching the video and buy a Triton ute. Toyota is dead.
@@ianfarr-wharton1000 yeah no idea why you'd pay more for less? I've been test-driving the lot in the last couple of months. Im ready to buy now. And it's not a hilux$. Theres no way ots worth it. I can get a wildtrack with dealer options for roughly sr5 prices once it's optioned.
@@ianfarr-wharton1000 why would I buy a Triton which isn’t half as reliable as a Toyota?? Toyota is far from dead, Mitsubishi isn’t as reliable as Toyota.
@@lockyrichardson7195 the triton 3.2 is really reliable, new 2.8 hilux isn’t that reliable
Amazing and revealing comparision on "the hard truth" part.
Your videos are some of the best in the 4wd community for newcomers like myself.
Excellent gr8 presentaion not only clears but helps also lot of doubts and conceptions. Thx from BC.CAN.
A video on how the manufacturers/dealers actually carry out a GVM up grade on various vehicles would be interesting.
Indeed! Please do this one Ron.
Its nothing special. Just an approved and tested suspension kit fitted, a new mod plate and a registration with main roads. Its all bit of a rort tbh, no upgrading of brakes chassis bracing ect ect.
just calculate the net weight of the addon accesories and headout to instal a suspension rated for the resultant weight..... you are good to go....
@@krump7429 Yep.... Braking being a massive one !
@@krump7429 It's more complicated than that, a lot more
You once again have given us a great show
Best Advice, Keep it Light, your vehicle will Thank You
Excellent video Ronnie so many people don,t do the maths thank you for showing the public needs to be more of this shown
advice: make a weight budget and good faith estimates of everything you want to add/carry to the vehicle long before you buy. Your weight budget will determine your which vehicle you buy. Worst thing that can happen is you buy the wrong vehicle before you know the gear load.
The white board of truth was a good starting point. Great video! weight budget planning > vehicle cost budget. You can always buy an older vehicle that can carry what you want/need to be happy.
Thanks @RonnyDahl no one has ever explained GVM so clearly. I am also inclined to think the majority of people may be over GVM unknowingly.
Howdy Ronny couple of things about white paint (not pearly, I mean flat glacier white) it's much cooler which is great if you're parked up in the sun at camp. It's got no clear coat so won't suffer from clear coat failure as it ages. And it's so easy to touch up paint, no problems blending metallic specks and clear coat. It's simple single pack standard white paint. Even a politician can fix it.
Great vid Ronny... very helpful especially about the GVM. Thanks
BEST VIDEO FOR ROOKIES LIKE ME CONSIDERING WHAT TO GET AND WHAT TO ADD. WHAT A BEAUTY RONNY!!!
I am far from an expert but I can see , that you have put a lot of though & experience into how you communicate all of this. You broke it down to simple & logical. Really great video Ronny!
Unless you have a compliance plate for the upgrades with the new GVM your GVM is unchanged from what the factory spec is irrespective of what upgrades have been done. It has to be certified with the Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Cities and Regional Development.
@@Wdeane1957 You made a good point.
I am building a heavily modified 4wd drive, starting with the chassis & Body. In Victoria @ least, the whole thing of getting a GVM upgrade is a contentious thing.
I asked if my chassis could be built & certified with a higher GVM & I only got a very vague & non committal answer from the engineer I when to for my build.
To be clear I paid the engineer well to answer those questions. In my situation it is more complex because it is not just a case of bolt on component & maybe low invasive weld in braces & reinforcements.
The more deep you go with complexity down the rabbit hole the harder it is to be certain your are getting the right or best information, especially from gov agencies.
Many show up spinning a great story about their expertise but few will put it in writing.
There have been instance where I have gone to 8 or more individuals in government, all claiming they know their stuff, all telling a different story but not willing to put there "reputation" to document.
I have had a few similar experiences with Engineers. Just because they are "Engineers" does not mean they are good @ what they do. If you are not an engineer, then it can be quite difficult to know a good one from one that is not so good.
It is frustrating, I want quality & happy to more for it. I pay my invoices to all involved in my project on time.
There are more than a few fearful ego mind princesses that show up. I wonder if I will ever get it completed.
It is know on pause with stage 4 restrictions & I know I have to be understanding & patient with that. But the difficulty is my situation occurred well be for this pandemic thing, issues occurred pretty much from the beginning.
I went pretty detailed with my homework before getting the vehicle builder to start. So for all the trials & challenges that I have had with it, I wonder what level of drama I might of endured this far if I had not done all of that.
For lots of reasons I'd personally never consider the Cybertruck as an option, but the payload capacity on that thing is a whopping 1,588 kilos! That's nearly 3x that of my Bronco Badsquatch.
Anyways Ronny, thanks for another helpful video. This was instrumental in helping me to plan my next build.
Great work Ronny! Probably we should bolt less stuff to our car, take less stuff and if we want to take the grand piano, just take a box trailer! Your video on trailers is a very good example of how to spread the load when camping with the family. 👍
just walked 90 miles over the cascades with a 15 pound pack less food..... adding a cooler some ice and a pillow sounds so luxurious! looking at a tacoma to replace my much-loved but pretty small patriot. Thanks so much for the video, super helpful.
Prado 150 GX (base model) has a 750 Kg payload. That 550 Kg figure shown on the whiteboard must be for a Kakadu (bloated top spec). And that is with the kerb weight including 150 L of diesel. Advice: get the base model for better payload (and to save money).
exactly.
Fantastic work Ronny! You're getting better at this. As i said before in other videos, that's the biggest mistake people make when buying a ute....putting a heavy steel tray on it. For touring it is an absolute waste of strength and weight. You only need a steel tray for heavy mining or farming applications. I saved about 200kgs on my 79 by ordering a heavy duty alloy troy from factory and even with a full sized alloy canopy on the tray it is STILL lighter than having just a steel tray. The canopy weighs about 150kgs with drawers and a full size shelf 2 thirds up. I've done the Oodnadatta track, West Mereenie Loop, Rainbow Valley etc on some of the roughest outback tracks and the alloy tray has handled it no worries. The key is not to overload your tray. Just take what you need and your vehicle will love you for it. And i still run stock suspension as i haven't overloaded my vehicle.
Ronny - really enjoying these type of videos from you! Especially for the fact that you cut through all the BS!! ❤️🐞
Also the 78 Troopy has the same GVM as the 79 double cab (3300kg) so the payload in the GXL is a tonne.
Good stuff mate! Interesting to see once most vehicles compared between each...
Be good to see 80s + 90s 4wds vs today's 4wds
if towing is considered, towbar and towball weight also need to be factored into GVM
On the 79 series v MU-X comparison you've quoted the GVM of the MU-X as 2650 kgs. That is for the 4x2 model, not 4x4, which most touring set-ups would use. The 4x4 GVM is 2750 kgs giving you an extra 100 kgs, not much but a small improvement for comparison purposes. The payload for the mid level 4x4 LSU (according to Redbook) is 608kgs.
That 608KG is only 2KG less then a 200 series, Also note, depends on the trim level, as the payload goes up to 658KG on the mux
Great video Ronny mate, my wife and I are in about 18 months or so will be buying the new Dmax which will be ideal for our needs. And yes I will be looking at GVM and GCM upgrades plus a brake upgrade as I do believe a lot of people don't even think about how the extra weight effects the stopping power of the factory brakes.
Hi Chris, I also have a Dmax (on my second actually!). Brake upgrades aren't a bad thing but the brakes on utes are pretty good standard. Hence the higher towing capacities. I would do all your mods first and then see if you're happy with the braking. You may find that factory is still good enough.
@@anthonywhitney634 G'day Anthony, thanks for the feedback mate 👍, this will be our first Dmax as well as brand new car. Eventually I want to fit a tray and canopy and I quote:
WIFE: we are getting a caravan first.....
She who must be obeyed wants a caravan she will get a caravan 😂.
I was thinking with the caravan and eventual tray/canopy set up that a brake upgrade couldn't hurt, but I didn't mention about a caravan in the mix in my original comment.
Thanks again mate as it is always great to hear from people who have real life experience in what my wife and I are looking to invest our time and money into, also the main reason we are looking at the Dmax is Isuzu's amazing reliability 👍👍
@@chrishanslow4825 The new D Max should be quite a ripper! We have the older versions and have been more than happy with them. The 2021 Should have much bigger front brakes at around 310mm+ front rotors vs ours 280mm (2011/2012). I think the main secret to safe towing is having your camper / van brakes on point with a decent electric brake controller eg Tow Pro Elite or similar and servicing / adjusting the trailer brakes regularly, replacing the magnets as necessary periodically etc. ( The amount of trailers / vans I see with zero brake effectiveness is actually pretty scary! ) Good luck with it and happy touring!
@@mjhmech4903 cheers mate, my wife and I can't wait and yeah the tow pro will be a priority addition when we do eventually get our caravan. Me personally I'd prefer a camper trailer but my wife wants a park up and relax approach due to us not getting any younger 😂😂
Anyway cheers again mate 👍👍
Thanks Ron, i'm in the "research" stage of getting a 4wd. Your vids are awesome and super helpful! Was leaning towards a Ute but this backs it up even more. Keep up the good work!
Hi Ronny, no doubt all the kit adds weight. I guess one thing to consider is the net weight difference. Remove stock bumper and add HD aftermarket bumper, you need to remove the OE weight from the calculation. Same for suspension and other components. Stuff like the fridge and roof racks will all be adders.
good point John, I am adding Titan drawers to 105 series today, approx 70 kg, but removing 3rd row seats , approx 40 kg, thus only 30 kg gain here, could save more, but hard to justify extra $1000 approx for locally made ? but try to buy Australian where possible !
the plastic bumper ways 3-5 kg XD
@@Jesse-2531 haha, all the trucks I buy have steel bumpers. Thin albeit steel bumpers, but every little bit counts. Eg,. I removed non-structural tube steps and added frame mounted structural steel slider/steps. Each were about 90 lbs, the OE ones were ~30 lbs each. I get to subtract that from the 90.
I think this also ushers in the question about bringing a 2nd spare and the hardware to hold it and how many and what spare parts to carry. This is all about risk mgt vs weight savings. How many people have really blown out 2 tires in one trip. Really, if you're only touring, do you need CVs and U joints, ect.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 I agree I'm old school 2 spare inner tubes and some rubber patches for inside the the tyre, I also run all terrains because I believe you can have too much grip sounds crazy but its far far better to spin a wheel than break something.
Cheers Ronny. The key here is knowing what you want the vehicle to do. In my view, comparisons only make sense within a certain class. I'm a Jeep guy, and I freely admit Jeeps aren't the best for payload compared to a UTE. My latest JLU Rubicon is rated at 1210lbs payload or 548 kilos. Keeping the factory lift, 33s, skids and sliders as they're plenty sufficient for what I do. I sleep in the vehicle easily, travel solo, and from Ronny's list only haul the fridge, water, my gear/cargo, and fuel. Using his numbers I'm still 500lbs under limit, even with a hard top. So, It all depends on what a person thinks they actually need, and whether or not they can resist the urge to bolt something to every possible location. Ronny is correct - most of the time folks don't do their calculations, and this gets them into trouble, but I wouldn't shy away from some of the really capable wagon/SUV configurations like the Wrangler, 4runner, FJ, or new Bronco, etc just because their payload numbers are significantly less than a different class of vehicle. The nimble capabilities of smaller rigs are impressive provided weight isn't exceeded.
Best 2 days owning a black or dark colour vehicle, the day you buy it and the day you sell it 😎
Worth noting for the Prado that you're getting a 150L fuel tank- that's 70-80L more than most of it's competitors.
Also GX has 750-780kg payload (depending on model year) while the Kakadu only has 550. The $30,000 price difference gives you enough cash for the accessories as well. It is a no brainer for me.
Prado 120 has 2 x 90L fuel tanks 180L.
But diesel engine uses more fuel so range is the same as the 150 prado
@@emilrozkoszny3935 Got that backwards there mate. Diesels use significantly less fuel.
@@herbert696 sorry meant to say the 120's diesel uses more than the 150's d4d which is more efficient so the range works out the same
the info provided: very valuable, thanks. (the lights during the explenation, horrible ::))
Great tutorial, I went thru the same machinations 2 years ago.
Here are some additional key considerations:
Some vehicles come with factory fit long range fuel tanks (150-180ltr) as part of their Kerb Mass, which is highly desirable. Utes might come with just an 80ltr tank.
Monocque hull vehicles are hopeless on corrugated roads, your fillings will rattle out. Vehicles that have a cabin on ladder frame design are far superior.
When you are laid-up in a remote town looking for parts you'll be glad you chose a mainstream make/model vehicle.
Also, from the Toyota website, load capacities:
LC200 gxl and up = 610Kg
LC150 gxl and up = 665Kg
Sometimes the comments are as important as the actual vid - yours is one of them RPP - hadn't considered the different between ladder and monocoque off road - I had always assumed the monocoque would be more forgiving...wrong again! Also the point about the Kerb Mass with long range tank...very good info! Cheers, and thanks.
@@MiniLuv-1984 TY. Have driven a Pajero (monocoque hull) along the Gibb River Road a few times and then a Prado (cabin on frame) more recently.
The Pajero rides were bone jarring and the dashcam videos showed it. The Prado was infinitely smoother and the dashcam footage a picture of serenity.
@@rp4b449 Wow, like a mentioned that is the opposite of what I had assumed, so really glad you bought that up. I had read somewhere that towing a trailer with a ladder frame vehicle isolates some of the rattle from the cab too, but not much isolation in a monocoque. I do like the Pajero's though, but personally a challenger (with ladder frame) will suit me better.
Excellent video Ronny. Stand out tip for me is drive and get to know your vehicle before modifying it.. I’ve gone full circle now and back to a light, minimal setup and loving it 👍
Great video!! It seems to be a very expensive hobby, yet very exciting though. For my wallet the best way is to sit comfy and enjoy your videos!!
Prado payloads vary a lot from model to model
Prado 120 - 797KG
Prado 150 - 565KG
Pretty crazy difference
that's what striked me too, i got 120 and i remember it has something around 800kg payload. and that's just by overweight of the 150 series, which is over 200kg heavier probably, as gross mass is the same. So after all my manual, with no air suspension and 5 seats seems reasonable for a touring base, but automatic with all the stuff probably will go down to this 600kg.
Prado 150 GX has 750 Kgs payload, higher specs have worse payload though.
Fantastic video, quite comprehensive, helpful. Thanks very much.
Did I miss: safety ( star ratings), reliability ( dust leak, dpf, injectors, electronics etc), spares availability etc
The old Landrover Defender has great payload figures. e.g 110: 804-1269kg / 130: 1174-1648kg
Also need to be careful what manufacturers include in their curb weight. For my previous Everest, Ford only included a full take of fuel. While for my new Disco 5, LR includes 75kg for the driver, engine fluids, and 90% of a full tank of go go juice. That gives the D5 a payload of 890kg vs the Everest of 772kg with no people or fuel. Plus, if towing you need to take the tow ball download into account for your load calcs.
Yes. I always take my vehicles to the scales to be weighed. Do not trust the manufacturers.
Disco's are the only manf that the tow ball does not come out of the load, it is in addition to it.
What's real interesting is a 90 series Prado in RV6 3.4L or RV 2.7L & 3.0L form, have a 989kg payload (according to Carsales) which is outstanding and hard to believe its more than the LC200!
Yep, I had a 90 series Prado Grande and with the factory dual zone A/C, sunroof, 6 stacker CD player, electric seats, the payload was 834 kg.
Ive now got an Isuzu MU-X LSU and with the standard payload of 610 kgs (Ronnys figures are wrong- they're for the 4x2, not 4x4) I had to get a GVM upgraded (+450 kgs) to fit it out for basic touring and have some leeway for towing a camper trailer.
For an insurer Club 4x4 where brilliant, had one claim with them and it was a breeze. In the end I had to change as I could not afford the 4k per year premium, which every year I was with them was going up (started at 2.5k). Note under 25 and agreed value with 25k mods on a 10k car. Now with shannons and they cover the same places off road, as well as premiums going down every year I get older.
GVM I'm my suzuki is always a hard thing to stick to. Have completed strengthening mods to handle greater loads but getting the piece of paper adjusted has been a pain. Though I know she is capable of the loads as I have toured with her at 1.8 ton and she went marvelously. Tbh ride is so much better at that weight. So far everyone I have asked for help has laughed me off. A 150-200kg upgrade would allow me to run the ally canopy again.
Another informative video Ronny. I have just ordered a vehicle that I’m setting up to tour with as well as maybe tackle some more challenging 4wding. What I have found to be difficult and inconsistent information to find, basically resorting to guessing after getting different weights quoted on the same products, is the weight of accessories such as bullbars, canopies, sidesteps etc for model specific products from any of the major suppliers of these products. This adds some challenges as far as planning a build goes. I would have thought this would be a pretty basic information to supply in the specifications of these products. Surely they would have the information from shipping these products etc. I’m sure there is many people who are in the same boat as me on this. A video encouraging manufacturers and suppliers to have this information accurately on hand would be brilliant. Cheers
After market accessories manufacturers can't advertise the weight of an accessory when no one else does...that just means they will lose sales. So without legislation compelling them to publish such info, their customers are left to fend for themselves as many of us have found out.
Always love the vids Ronny! Really helping out when I try choose a 4x4
Gladiator load capacity:. 1080 to 1600 lbs depending on trim. 485 - 725 kg.
It should also be mentioned that the Gladiator has a bed installed. So the “load capacity” doesn’t have to account for that. In fact, if you swapped to a lightweight tray you might gain some more capacity back. 725kg with the bed already installed isn’t too shabby.
@@BriscoelabMN yeah but every other ute can do like 1 ton with a tray on, and 725kg isn't available in all regons
@@dallasmellsop5488 I think a lot of utes (like the LC79) don't include the tray in the original payload figures. Gladiator would have to being that all trims are tubs. The different specs have vastly different amounts of kit too. I wouldn't expect the rubicon to carry the same as the bottom spec. Lots of different gear.
@@Saphire0437 yeah that's true, and don't get me wrong, I LOVE the gladiator, probaly is my favourite ute, I just still don't see 600-700 kgs as acceptable when like the HiLux and ranger can do so much more
@@dallasmellsop5488 I'd say the trade off there is...and I'm not a fanboy of any particular brand...stock gladiator will go places your typical 1 ton payload dual cabs won't (ranger, hilux, etc). Out of the box. Thats the selling point for the wrangler too. No mods required. Shit load of ability in stock form. If you modify a ranger or a hilux to be just as capable, you've probably added significant weight. Like a solid axle conversion for example. The other car I think of is the ranger raptor. Really really capable offroad out of the box, not great payload compared to the lower ranger trims.
Great video imo.
I bought my Mitsi. wagon and we had a weighbridge where I used to work. It is surprising just how quickly you can pile up the weight.
A quick google tells me the base model Pajero Sport has a load capacity in base form of 730kg. Sort of up there with the best in the wagons by the look of it.
I have made a conscious decision to keep it light and simple for this reason as well as the fact that the vehicle is just a lot more pleasant to drive and use.
Plenty of lightweight camping options around without needing coffee machines or big fridges but then I'm not in the slightest interested in doing long range touring.
I have toyed with the idea of a lightweight offroad trailer but it hasn't been needed so far.
Horses for course I guess and the other important factor is to have the time/money to actually use it rather than it being a mall crawler.
One piece of advice I can give is, do not give in to peer pressure from people who drive older and rougher 4wd's, just because they're happy to bash the crap out of there car doesn't mean you have to
The SR has a rear locker as standard.
Rugged X has rear locker
@@intimatespearfisher : Or Get a second Ute - make the family trip a tag-along - safety in numbers. - Hmm, towing a Van to the "back of beyond" in the Gulf country (for example) - how much damage are we expecting out of that - yes yes, boys toys - showin' tha missus how "real aussies" do it in luxus style....
G day Ronny, nice video, for the beginners.... and all who have to change.... to make it suit. One factor I like to mention what counts for me, the handbrakes wish! Yep, that’s correct...you go out with your mates, build a toy truck nothing else. Go 4WD camping and touring with family, Ute, you are strait on it. Last but not least, 4WD touring, camping, with 1 axle trailer towing. Ask the better half if she likes to site in a Ute or work truck !!Decision made, so go and figure out and work it out. Everyone different and with different budgets. Thanks for assistance, I go now a figure out the small print in the 60 page new Insurance offer. Cheers
excellent info mate. the way you explained the GVM stuff was easy to follow and not nearly as dull as just reading about it. even prompted me to calculate mine! the only thing i would add is that you do not need to spend a fortune on a vehicle to get out there. i bought a 300tdi Disco 1 with 280k on it, and have done a lot in it including some epic outback trips etc. i had to spruce it up a bit, but all in for about 8k, including a rooftop tent
re: published figures - do not trust the figures you find on internet wholesale. Even on factory pages, I've found confirmed errors. For example, the brochure for the Tacoma had bad angles figures and when I asked Toyota about it they said, basically "yeah, here are the real numbers, we aren't reprinting that. Thanks." Search around and make sure that a) the numbers from several sources agree b) they are actually for YOUR model, not the most capable version. Make sure the figures make sense too. i.e. the ram power wagon used to claim 14.2 inches ground clearance but its got 33 inch tires with an 11.5 inch ring gear on its rear solid axle. The math doesn't add up since half of 33 minus half of 11.5 alone is less than 14.2. Don't take internet or manufacture figures at face value.
Thank you Ronny
Love your vids Ronny. Little off on the Jeep Gladiator; GVW 6,250 lbs. minus curb weight of 4,650 lbs. equals 1,600 lbs. load capacity.
Nice one Ronny. Thanks mate.
Nice vid. The last part really makes it clear how quickly equipment stacks up against the GVM. You didnt even cross off utes after the 2nd lot of mods... 1070kg crosses off everything on the board except the Ranger & the 79
As a farmer I do not do pure offroading but I need to go through fields, slopes, carry a trailer. After researching I got a simple 1999 first generation Rav4. Makes the job. Reliable. Just 4,500 Euro. Any 1990’s early 2000’s Toyota is a great choice.
Parts availability is a big issue here in some parts of Brazil. Ended up getting a Triton but we looked at all available options. We actually liked the Ranger but all owners we spoke with had issue getting basic parts when bringing in there truck for maintenance. Some had to wait for more than a month just for basic parts.
Also I is worth checking if the dealer deals with a lot of vehicles that are heavily used. Here in our state Triton's are used by police, firefighters and other government agencies that go to remote and restricted nature reserves. Because of that the dealer is used to dealing with certain wear on these trucks.
Good info, you covered the 2 regrets I had after buying my hilux (18 inch wheels, since rectified but costly, and the colour}. I now know my guess of you buying a gladiator is wrong!
new hilux rear diff centre has weak bolts,they come loose,snap.IFS,is not,a good thing..not,a real 4x4.
@@phantomwalker8251 blah, blah, blah. My hilux does me fine. Go have a pissing contest with someone else.
I reckon Ronnie is going the Ranger for sure. He has a large American following and that’s where most overland/4WD content creators seem to be pitching their direction these days given how much money there is to be made in that market. I’d almost say a Jeep but it’d just end up broken in a shed next to his dads.
Awesome video Ronny. I am a little bit dissapointed though and dont understand why you didnt include the Pajero (i own one and is a more popular choice compared to many cars you mentioned). Pajero has a Payload of over 700kgs (as much as the much larger Patrol). Also, I know you touched on it but i want to remind that people dont need all that equiptment to go touring (which eats away into your load). Also worth mentioning is weight distribution and roof weight capacity which is often overlooked. Thanks again.
GVM weight and acessories. Kerb weight includes a full tank of fuel of the vehicles standard fuel tank. What your missing in payloadbis if the vehicle is towing a camper trailer, boat or caravan is the towbar ball weight! 3.5 tonne (10%) carries a 350kg ball weight which needs to be factored into accessories, payload part of the vehicles GVM
ROBUST COMPLETE AND PERFECT. No other words. Except appreciate all the hard work youve put in to gather all that info and bother to pen it down on the white board. That really reflect your love and commitment for both your own self and your neighbors! Youre really loving your neighbors as yourself!! Hope youve worked on even the 1st great commandment too though (not to jeopardize the 2nd one if youve not, without which the world has become a bad place). God bless you Ronny. God speed.
Looked at the Gladiator and that is correct. Jeep made a massive mistake on payload for the Australian market
Won't stop people buying them and then overloading them, see it everyday
Payload on the gladiator is lower because it has coil springs not leaf springs. Which also results in better departure angles compared to the other trucks.
OneDankind np300 has a coil rear? Still higher load than gladiator
And their chassis is also made of paper too having seen a few already folding them... great vehicle...
@@Jafridasap Different springs and suspension probably.
Honestly though you don't need hundreds of kgs of the stuff Ronnie mentioned anyways.
He sort of does a really specific long range thing.
For Overlanding in NA(where I'm at) I'll never need 1k kms of range.
So I don't need 80k of extra weight in fuel or the extra tank to carry it.
I don't need 40kg fridge slider, rock sliders or a SIXTH wheel. That alone is well over 200kgs(probably over 300kgs) of unneeded weight.(for me)
This isn't a criticism of Ronnies list. He does way more intense stuff further from civilization than I do. But North America is just built different. We're almost NEVER more than 30mins away from a town or somewhere you can refuel.
Come to think of it A lot of North America and Central America and South America fit that description.
Ronny you are an awesome bloke
Hi Ron,
Just to add to the list is basic bashplates as a must and start at about 10kgs for basic alloy ones and.......with most dual cabs, a tub canopy at 70kgs for a fully heavy duty braced one. I set up my past ranger without doing the calcs and it weighed in at 2910kgs with out passangers or payload. Which meant I couldn't tow my boat and had to take minimal gear when camping.
As Ron said, it all adds up and becomes an expensive mistake if you get it wrong so yes please do your research before buying😉
Hey Ronny, don't forget if you are towing, you have to deduct the towball load from your GVM also.
When I stick to numbers, calculating all the stuff wanted, no way even a ute can help and dreams about an Unimog come. But the reality strikes back and mud tyres come out the only tuning. ^_^ I used to have a bull bar, winches and all the stuff on a previous vehicle, but it turned out that in reality it downgraded the performance and made me too optimistic of car's capabilities.
Great explanation and I look forward to your new rig. One point I feel should be added to the GVM explanation is if towing that the towball weight also has to be added to the vehicles load. I am doing up my ranger at snail pace to make sure it remains suitable and functional while being under the GVM.
spot on, and don't forget to add the weight of the tow bar and hitch...
There's ways to save money on building a rig. Buy used parts, instead of an extra built in battery 2 portable batteries with a booster pack in backup, build bumpers yourself if you can, do your own mechanic....also wait for sales when possible, shopping online for deals or cheapest options even when looking for good brands. Tire sales too helps lots can save hundreds
Excellent overview! The whiteboard session is a real eye-opener. However you didn't address the fact that virtually all ute owners fit a canopy for overlanding. This also adds considerable weight! So perhaps you could branch this outcome into Overland touring, or a nice modest rig for everyday driving plus long weekend exploring or a nice run up the coast for several days. Thanks, Frank
Great video Ronny, but you left out the best touring wagon the Troopy! LWB same as duel cab 79 good for towing and a load capacity of 975kg without the need for an added tray. GCM at 6.8t with all the GVM upgrades available up to 4.2t. Also the most proven out back platform and spares available Australia wide. Down side is rear access if towing because only from rear and have to step over trailer draw bar 🤷🏼♂️
Also front and rear lockers on GXL Troopy
only in your dreams
Remember this is if your gonna be spending a lot of time touring but if your a weekend warrior and maybe just want to cruise off road on a Saturday perhaps an ATV is a way better choice for you.
Great information Ronnie, especially the detailed GVM info. As a person who did fk up and went out and bought a new 4wd without knowing anything about 4wds or 4w driving or modifications or anything this is really really informative. I did have some mods fitted at purchase before I picked up my vehicle from the dealer and now after learning a tonne of important info about my vehicle, modifications, accessories and 4w driving and touring I would do things differently should I ever go to purchase a new 4wd again. Thankfully I did do one smart thing and got a hilux SR5 which I don't regret in the slightest. I think the hilux is awesome.
My best piece of advice for someone NEW to owning a 4wd and 4w driving is to buy a cheap 4wd first and join a local 4wd club, watch videos on youtube such as 4wheeling Australia and 4wd 24/7 and others that also pass on valuable 4wd information. Learn as much as you can, from that info then work out what 4wd you want, what modifications and accessories you want/need from the start and what mods/accessories you can get over time. Then start looking for your new 4wd.
I was taking notes during the video... In Costa Rica we can cut that list a lot, but in Australia a some of parts of the list are a "must". Thanks for every piece of info and tips!. Good videos!
I shared the same math at my presentation for overland expo showing it was practically impossible to stay under gvw for a small pickup as well. Also the impact of a RTT on rollover rating. Note for the Utes, still need to add a tray and canopy.
That's why I love my Silverado 3500 single rear wheel.... Tare/kerb weight @ 3,307kg....GVM @ 5,171kg and GCM @ 11,113kg. Happy days.
Buy a used one with all the kit, they don't sell for more and you save a fortune :)
Been looking at Pajeros, you get just over 700kg between Kerb Weight and GVM, not bad.
Excellent advice.
Catch can. A definite must.
Another important point is tow ball weight and GVM, a lot of people will tow a caravan or camper trailer, if the vehicle is already at max GVM before you hitch the trailer then you're going to be overweight also.
Mods and Insurance, recently got a quote from Club 4x4 and they asked for a list of mods and prices. I found that I've decked my Pajero out so far for $4080. That's roof rack, roof cage, light bars, UHF, dual battery set up, DIY Custom built drawer system with drawer fridge, second hand bullbar etc. If you are spending 10K on basic mods you are spending way too much.
You missed the Pajero Sport. Exceed Kerb weight of 2110 GVM 2775 for a 665 payload. Payload goes up to 710 on base model. Based on the Triton
I have my eyes on a work friends' 80 series Landcruiser. Original Factory turbo diesel, about 400,000 km and stock as a rock!
Never been off road, only towed trailers.
No mods at all! Not even a bullbar.
KrAUSerMike get it! 91 or 92 1hdts had a bad batch of big end bearings so be careful on its history or change the big ends if it’s an early model. Absolute beauty of a car though, just do the maintenance and it will go forever. Got a 1hz gxl 80 myself
@@leadingseamanphilbillingto100 Thank mate, his son bought it on trade in (he works for a dealership) and has had it since the start of the year. I have told him how interested I am should he decide to sell it.
@@KrAUSerMike Grab it mate. I have a '91 factory turbo 80 Series in excellent condition. Only just run-in with 300,000kms on the clock. 80 Series' actually have a nice payload of 925kgs or thereabouts. You take the back row seats out, which weigh 22kgs each I think, and you have almost 1 tonne of payload in a wagon! I spent 2 years researching and looking for the right 4wd to build into a tough tourer, and the 80 Series was the only 4wd that made sense and fit into my budget. Plus they're very simple vehicles, any mechanic in a small country town can work on them, parts are everywhere and they are only going up in value. I've already been offered more than I paid for mine. Super capable with only a 2 inch lift on 33's, which is legal here in NSW so no issues with insurance or the fuzz.
Just wanted to add, yes they had issues with big end bearing shells in these early models, but anything getting around now would've had them changed. Mine was done by Toyota well before I bought it and there is a recall placard on the drivers door indicating this. Check for the placard, if not probably better to have them changed for peace of mind. It's not a big job for a qualified mechanic to change them out.
@@leadingseamanphilbillingto100 : If it ha lasted this long, it is likely to be a "good-un"
I know in aus and mostly the world the defenders are not known for reliability but their load carrying is amazing! I have a 2008 defender 110sw I took the third row out so I subtracted the weight of the seats from my tare weight. My payload came to 1.2 tons! With all my accessories on and fuel and food plus two people I have 250kg Spare. That’s with out a GVM upgrade
Good call on insurance.
Hey Ronny solid video.
You mentioned the rear bar for the wagon but similarly the ute owner often adds a canopy. If comparing apples with apples the waterproof wagon vs ute with canopy would be fair. Another one that should be on the general mods list that is a big weight is changing rims and tyres from what the factory provide (eg in your case maybe 125kg).
Also 100% agree about getting the car without all the major mods. Having done it both ways with 2 ute purchases it was far better to make the small modifications as needed vs the fully loaded from the dealer experience. I think most people take the fully loaded option because a) Jonesing, b) the mods are on the loan and c) tax deductions.
If the 3rd-row seats in 200 weights about 50kgs - you will get that extra capacity when you remove them. Will help a bit.
Any extra weight capacity is lost in the 200 series as soon as you fill up those massive fuel tanks. Which are great but they don't really have that much extra to play with.
GVM is the issue I ran up against, I noticed a lot of the youtube instagram rigs rolling around were sometimes 1-2k lbs over weight. Most off road vehicles sold in the US have only enough payload capacity to carry their passengers, no mods and no supplies. Half ton trucks were a little better, but once you account for your mods and passengers you don't have enough payload for supplies. I'm having to look at 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks in order to have enough payload for mods, supplies, and passengers with breathing room.
Great video Ronny going through this process my self real soon great advice.
A video on in vehicle touring set up vs basic off-road mods to vehicle plus trailer would be interesting. Look at cost and weight.
The numbers I have for a new Prado GXL are GVM 2990 and kerb weight 2300 so that's a load capacity of 690kg
And how much of that is people (Little kids get big quick - reduces useful payload -- jk.) - then Esky, water tent/RTT - stop all full.
Fill up with fuel and you loose heaps of that as the prado has massive fuel tanks... just a though.
One that really isn't that great as an overlanding vehicle would be the Prado (90 in our case) as there is a real lack of space to put things even before considering load capacity. It has some great features but the lack of room in the back is a continual headache. Buying a good second hand vehicle that has had some extras put on it can save a whole heap of money. Ours came with roo bar, side steps, roof rack, dual battery, spot lights, Reece hitch and it had never been off road. The fit out that we are still working on has cost around $7-8000 to date. We are trying to be as budget conscious as possible without skimping on things like DC-DC charger, fridge and inverter. After watching this, a GVM upgrade is certainly going to be on the list too.
Well I am in the states, but if you tow, make sure the tow rating is at least 1/3 more than the heaviest thing you tow. My Ram is like just under 9,000 lbs tow capacity, as the heaviest part time thing i tow is still under 5,000 lbs . I don't worry as much about the premature wear. I planned for it and purchased the vehicle to do more than I intended. Love the tips on 4 wheeling, My Ram does not do Trails like your Tracks.
Ronny, the problem with the Jeep Gladiator is that for a truck/Ute is that it is running a 5 link rear suspension unlike the 79 Ute or like the Hilux that is running leaf. Now here in the USA with upgraded tow package the Gladiator can tow up to 7600lbs and load capacity of 1600lbs.
Very good info, have had to keep my MU-X under this hence why I have not gotten extended fuel tank for it. Isuzu MU-X GVM is 2750kg though but points still valid. Cheers for content.