VW Golf Mk5 Audi Tdi DIY brake caliper adjustment using piston wind back tool to fix binding brakes
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- VW Golf Audi Seat tdi rear brakes. DIY approach to releasing binding rear brakes using the brake caliper piston wind-back tool on the Golf Mk5 1.9 TDI plus replacing the brakes pads.
Thanks for a really useful video. I'm pleased to hear that you have since replaced the caliper. You can usually get replacement calipers on auto doc or even ebay quite cheaply. Or a caliper rebuild kit from auto doc is less than £10. I have found that touching a wheel after a run will often show a sticking caliper because the wheel will be warmer or even hot compared to the others. Obviously we don't do that routinely but do it when putting air in the tyres or if there's a noise or burning smell from the wheel.
Thanks for watching HJ and passing on your tips. Yes I remember those re-build kits from way back when I was about 22 years old. Another half-century has passed and spending half a day covered in brake fluid has lost most of its appeal (in winter anyway)... cheers b33zo
Thank you John, I attempted to replace my brake pads this weekend and they were worn so thin that the piston was as far out of the caliper as it could go and was almost impossible to wind back in. I have been looking at various guides this evening and found yours to be the best one because you had the same difficulties as me. Hopefully after seeing how you solved the issues I can fix them tomorrow.
Thanks for watching dandylion. Hope you had success with the brakes. b33zo
You don't want dirty brake fluid being pushed back towards ABS unit...crack open bleed nipple( with clear piping tightly attached)...much easier to push piston in and any contamination is ejected rather than pushed back into pipes...PS your disc looks scored as well
Thanks for watching Graham and passing on your very helpful knowledge. b33zo
@@b33zo Learnt the hard way!!
Just did mines, the rewind tool was a very fun experience. I didn't use the back plate and also found that having the black handle in the middle rather than all the way to one side was easier to turn (rewind) as there was equal pressure when rotating instead of maximum pressure via one angle only.
Thanks for watching Shyam. Yes the rewind tool is a lot of fun and essential for old brake cylinders. b33zo
I'm impressed you were able to wind the piston in without using the back plate. I tried that, and after absolutely ages without getting the piston back in I used the backplate. Then it was a 2 minute job to get the piston back. Good luck all.
If I suspect one of my brakes is binding then it’s easy to work out which one as that wheel centre will feel hotter than the others after a run. Thanks for the video John.
Thanks for watching lumbo. Yes very good point. I went straight to the RH side for no particular reason. Didn't check the LH side. Hope that's not binding too..! Cheers b33zo
Yes. I get a grinding noise as well. It comes and goes when I apply the brakes gently. Disc get extremely hot. I changed the brake pads and wheel bearing and still have the same problem. Wheel is very tight. I'm going to change the caliper sliding pin this week. I changed the caliper a couple of years ago and it's not that tight when winding back. I'm breaking my head.
Great video. Thank you for posting. Set me on my way to investigate further and complete discs and pads replacement all round. Would not have been able to completed rears with out the Hilka tool that you feature. Bought mine at the Fixing Screw retailer. Worth every penny.
I have a question though.
Rather than wrestling the reset tool with the hens legs - slip joint pliers - why not refit caliper to frame after pads and disc removed then caliper held and only have to deal with reset tool !
Thanks for watching CWS. I'm not really following your idea. When the caliper is back in position you cant access the piston. b33zo
@@b33zo Hi, removed so many words to prevent my comment being long winded made my comment unclear.
Was able to fit the reset tool to the pistons with the calipers refitted to the frame as the discs had been removed.
Was an MOT fail due to badly corroded and groved discs.
As new discs fitted then new pads required. Original pads were ok. Now passed MOT.
@@commonwealthsupport6906 Ah right, got it now. Yes excellent idea. With the disc out of the way the caliper would be stable and much easier to work on. Thank you. As a footnote I've recently replaced that caliper completely and the video will be published soon. ATB b33zo
Thanks for this. Seeing you struggle, I'm just gonna get a new caliper ;0)
Thanks for watching Jason. The winding tool works really well on un-frozen calipers but new calipers are reasonably affordable on Ebay and the way to go. Good luck with your job. b33zo
You could
Probably have gotten a caliper off eBay as I always find gsf very limited on parts for my old Audi
Thanks for watching. Yes good point. I probably did the research before choosing GSF which is walking distance from home. b33zo
Same car and same problem. Changed brake pads and wheel bearing. Still tight and grinding noise comes and goes. Disc getting extremely hot. As doon as i hear the grinding noise i gently apply the brake and the noise goes. I am Changing the caliper sliding pins this week. I changed the caliper a couple of years ago.
Thanks for watching cj. Yes sounds like the calliper piston is not moving freely for one reason or another. Good luck with the job. b33zo
i don’t understand, if the calliper is that bad won’t the piston extend immediately when you brake, and then not retract and start wearing ur new pads?
Thanks for watching willy. Yes that's probably what happened and why I later replaced the caliper. b33zo
When i want to get the calliper piston back, i use a g clamp, works well...
Good tip and thanks for watching. b33zo
Worked for Golf? I thought you needed to screw in the piston.
Worked on my MK5 Golf front calliper, no screw in piston.@@SunBlueSkyDIY
@@SunBlueSkyDIY Probably. Think I figured that out when I had a go at the other side. b33zo
@@b33zo okay. Got a mk6. I found the best way to put the final seal.
It needs to go on the end first then just leaving enough to sit the seal. It was so easy…when you know how! 👌
Btw I’m working on rear left.
Cheers b33zo
Thank you for the useful video my brakes are in the same condition, I have a RH rewind tool but I need to change the left rear wheel caliper, do I need a LH rewind tool for the left side or can I use the RH rewind tool for both left and right calipers? Thanks!
Thanks for watching cp. My guess is that the rewind tool will work in either direction. I just watched your video. For the sake of around £45 a new caliper might be the way to go... ATB b33zo
The rewind tool will work on both LH and RH caliper. The RH marking means you turn the handle right (clockwise) . Some calipers turn the other way to rewind. The rewind tool is about £13 from screw fix or tool station .
Minor point, shouldn't use copper grease on ABS systems or aluminium parts. Specific brake grease is available for a similar price.
Thanks for watching sm and sharing your knowledge.
Did you try to put caliper back on without the pads then use the tool to push piston in? Any room?
Thanks for watching. Didnt work for me unfortunately.
@@b33zo nor me
The discs look shot.. So heavily scored and putting new pads on these will create groves in the pads.. Rather than a 100% flat surface contact.. I have found generally the discs look better on the outside than they do on the inside..
gixer750boy Thanks for watching. You are correct in every way sir! b33zo
that caliper needs to be rebuild or replaced
Agreed. Thanks for watching Dunco.
Give me a brake shoe/cable handbrake any day......horrible design!
Thanks for watching Pat.