We have bought a project beneteau oceanis 430 with a iron keel bleeding rust. This job is on our list but no videos out there so this is a great help. Thanks
Great job on the keel getting the underwater hull/keel surface smooth, sexy and laminar = speed. I was a bit puzzled when you mentioned that sand isn't used much anymore with blasting apparatus because it's carcinogenic? Sand is just eroded rock and marine organisms (shells), so I wouldn't think that to be true, but even so, the main ingredient of glass (glass bead blasting) is sand! Go figure, as the yanks say......
Thanks. Agree it’s weird about the sand not being used but maybe it’s about the particles of sand being broken down when fired at a surface. I’m just repeating what I was told by the media blasting company I use. Just googled it and definitely true, the broken down particles of silica sand can be less than 10 microns so harmful and can be carried in the air easily.
REFIT AND SAIL, Opening Seams at the hull keel joint seem to be a common problem. Especially with the C&Cs here in Canada… Just wondering , Have you ever considered fibreglassing the joint over?
Very nice work!! I am about remove and re-do all the work on my keel and i was searching a video of the same process that i have in my mind. Thank you for visualising it😊. How mane days it takes you?
The bulb being lead is not rusting so that makes it easier but I can either do it when the boat is held in slings (if I arrange for some extra time in the crane slings before launch) or what will probably happen is I will leave that until next ashore and ask the yard to put the supporting blocks under the keel in different locations.
George, Thanks for the video, I always like to hear your tips and advice, just wondering , are you setting up for single handed racing? I hope so. Keep the vids coming and now that you own two vessels you will have to work twice as hard. Good luck with all you are doing.
Hi, yes, have done a fair amount of solo sailing and racing in the past (with some success) but sold my previous boat that I had optimised so now I have to start again with this new racier boat 😁
How much can old anti-fouling slow a boat down by. My boat is a bit of a slug and it has many layers of antifouling. It's worse than the skin of an orange, but not as bad as the roads.
A rough surface is not fast, how much depends on how rough it is. Hard to quantify as it depends on the conditions. In light airs the difference will be considerably more than it would in stronger wind when you should be able to achieve hull speed. Weight is also a factor, antifouling is seriously heavy stuff (often due to the copper content) and that’s more weight you have to accelerate - again the weight issue is more of a consideration in lighter airs.
Great job George. I also did this job this year and it is nice to see that I used a similar process. I will second the recommendation to get old cast iron keels media blasted, using grinders etc takes a shocking amount of time and effort otherwise. Very dirty work too. The Tercoo attachment for a drill was useful for small areas, and probably a needle gun would work well but I didn't have one. The only difference for me was that instead of using Fertan rust converter I used a couple of coats of Owatrol Anti-Corrosion primer as a "pre-primer" before the epoxy primer and fairing compound. Coppercoat then as a final layer. For the hull-keel gap I used Sikaflex 292 which is the equivalent to whatever you are using. I didn't use a sanding board - an orbital sander was ok for me - but they sure are nice. There are lots of different methods, time will tell of course.
I have done it with a needle gun before, it works reasonably well but don’t get into all the voids like the media blast did. It was also slow and noisy. Sometimes the best thing is to pay a man but the needle gun job has lasted well.
Found your channel a couple days ago, and am enjoying the back catalog. Commenting to help feed the algorithm. Keep up the great work!
Welcome aboard! Thanks.
Great videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Big steps forward ! She’s is getting more beautiful by the minute 👌👌👌
One step at a time!
That looks superb. I had a keel on a dehler 36 bead blasted in Fambridge but the after finish let it down.
We have bought a project beneteau oceanis 430 with a iron keel bleeding rust. This job is on our list but no videos out there so this is a great help. Thanks
Great, pleased it’s helpful
Hidden rust is always difficult to deal with.
Excellent! She's looking great. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Muy buen trabajo Capitan !!!! un saludo desde Argentina !!!
Nice one 👌🏻
Great job on the keel getting the underwater hull/keel surface smooth, sexy and laminar = speed. I was a bit puzzled when you mentioned that sand isn't used much anymore with blasting apparatus because it's carcinogenic? Sand is just eroded rock and marine organisms (shells), so I wouldn't think that to be true, but even so, the main ingredient of glass (glass bead blasting) is sand! Go figure, as the yanks say......
Thanks.
Agree it’s weird about the sand not being used but maybe it’s about the particles of sand being broken down when fired at a surface. I’m just repeating what I was told by the media blasting company I use.
Just googled it and definitely true, the broken down particles of silica sand can be less than 10 microns so harmful and can be carried in the air easily.
REFIT AND SAIL, Opening Seams at the hull keel joint seem to be a common problem.
Especially with the C&Cs here in Canada…
Just wondering , Have you ever considered fibreglassing the joint over?
Very nice work!! I am about remove and re-do all the work on my keel and i was searching a video of the same process that i have in my mind. Thank you for visualising it😊. How mane days it takes you?
Great content. Question, how and when do you tackle the very base of the bulb that sits on the blocks?
The bulb being lead is not rusting so that makes it easier but I can either do it when the boat is held in slings (if I arrange for some extra time in the crane slings before launch) or what will probably happen is I will leave that until next ashore and ask the yard to put the supporting blocks under the keel in different locations.
Hi George absolutely fantastic work .. . Can I ask where the video is of you making up your own epoxy filler please. Regards Nick
Have done it in previous videos I’m sure, will try to include that in a future episode
Great video :)
Thanks!
George, Thanks for the video, I always like to hear your tips and advice, just wondering , are you setting up for single handed racing? I hope so. Keep the vids coming and now that you own two vessels you will have to work twice as hard. Good luck with all you are doing.
Hi, yes, have done a fair amount of solo sailing and racing in the past (with some success) but sold my previous boat that I had optimised so now I have to start again with this new racier boat 😁
@@RefitandSail Thanks for your reply, again Good Luck with your endevours
Sorry, what was the name of the flexible sealent on the keel joint? I'm not a native speaker, I couldn't make it out :) Cheers!
I think it was sabatack 780 which is probably similar to 3m 5200 or a sika high strength adhesive sealant.
Arbomast is the one Oyster use
@@OGillo2001arbomast is a manufacturer like sika, sabatack, 3m, bostik and others. They make multiple products for different uses.
How much can old anti-fouling slow a boat down by. My boat is a bit of a slug and it has many layers of antifouling. It's worse than the skin of an orange, but not as bad as the roads.
A rough surface is not fast, how much depends on how rough it is. Hard to quantify as it depends on the conditions. In light airs the difference will be considerably more than it would in stronger wind when you should be able to achieve hull speed. Weight is also a factor, antifouling is seriously heavy stuff (often due to the copper content) and that’s more weight you have to accelerate - again the weight issue is more of a consideration in lighter airs.
You are very good and skilful but let me give you some advice: Don’t talk so much.
Thanks, yeah I prob do talk a lot but I also cut a lot in the edit. Some folk want more detail others less so I try to balance it out.
Talk all you want, George. You are interesting and sharing great knowledge!
Great job George. I also did this job this year and it is nice to see that I used a similar process. I will second the recommendation to get old cast iron keels media blasted, using grinders etc takes a shocking amount of time and effort otherwise. Very dirty work too. The Tercoo attachment for a drill was useful for small areas, and probably a needle gun would work well but I didn't have one.
The only difference for me was that instead of using Fertan rust converter I used a couple of coats of Owatrol Anti-Corrosion primer as a "pre-primer" before the epoxy primer and fairing compound. Coppercoat then as a final layer. For the hull-keel gap I used Sikaflex 292 which is the equivalent to whatever you are using. I didn't use a sanding board - an orbital sander was ok for me - but they sure are nice.
There are lots of different methods, time will tell of course.
I have done it with a needle gun before, it works reasonably well but don’t get into all the voids like the media blast did. It was also slow and noisy. Sometimes the best thing is to pay a man but the needle gun job has lasted well.
@@RefitandSail Blasting is the way to go, especially if you have two keels!