Nice work! Another top tip; after applying masking tape, take a sanding paper and just sand the edge a bit, this will have two advantages. You apply pressure on the tape so it sticks better and you rough up the edge a little and get a more beautiful finish!
Brilliant job and gorgeous results… Here in California there are incredibly strict anti fouling controls that aim at reducing the amount of copper released into marinas and estuaries and thus organisms that filter feed. That is one fantastic looking bottom job though 👍⛵️
It’s a great product and as you say you have to be meticulous in preparation and follow the instructions perzactly. An extra pair of hands to do the mixing and brewing up - really helps the workflow too. Well done.👍
Great job again George! We’ve got our own coppercoat job at hand with 16 ltrs total 😅 This was just the video we were waiting for to see if we got all the info right to apply coppercoat the correct way. Thank you!
Hi do all boat hulls of the mid 70s suffer from osmosis like Lottie. Westerly s for instance , have you done any repair work on Westerly s especially a bilge keel ketch. Regards great instructional vids 🐼🐼🏴🏴
Sadly westerly yachts are pretty well known for suffering osmotic blistering, the resins used were not the finest quality but the hulls are thick! I have owned two westerly yachts, both had/have a damp or slightly blistering hull.
Do you have a part number for the Hamilton prestige rollers you used? Looks a great finish and great video. We are in the process of applying copper coat to your Marlow Hunter 31
Nice one George, great and detailed informations. Question... Coming back the next day for the starboard side, do you have to abrade the edge of the bow (that was treated already) or you just apply the layers over the existing coppercoat?
You can apply straight over as while the first side had done an initial cure it is still a bit soft and not done a full cure so there I’ll be a degree of chemical bond between the coats I expect. It’s never been a problem”em to overlap slightly. Have done lots of boat with cc and never had a failure but I am meticulous about the prep and the conditions for application (others not so much and have had issues).
People are getting 8-15 years of service life from Coppercoat but it does slowly loose its effectiveness over time. Its performance can be reestablished with burnishing but there is only so much copper in the coating.
Nice! for a boat that remain in the sea water during summer period (say from may to october) ..whati the duration of this antifouling? I mean , it must be be replaced each year? tx
This is a multi-year antifouling product that has been proven to work for 8-16 years in some cases. It still needs a clean once or twice a year depending on how bad the fouling is in your area but you just pressure wash and go sailing!
@@RefitandSail Tx for you kind reply..So Just pressure (high?) water a couple of times yearly ...It is only applicable to keels that have been treated with epoxy?
I have to paint outside. It’s late in the year to be doing copper coat Im aware but ill health has prevented me from getting t finished. It’s all prepared back to gel coat and ready to go. Question: will it be ok if rain water gets on the coppercoat after the first 24 hours? (Im battening with UK temperatures and weather to try and complete this in the next few weeks)
Newly applied CopperCoat looks amazing! I wish it stayed that color. My hull had it applied 10+ years ago and it seems to be working pretty well still though there are some areas that need a bit of attention. Would it be a good idea to sand the whole hull to "renew" it, and if yes what grit of sandpaper would you recommend?
Burnish it with a scotchbright pad or fine grit (400 or higher) abrasive paper all over to expose fresh copper. However after 10 years and if that has been done there is a risk you could sand through the coating - depends how much is there and if it’s been done a few times before.
Which brand of roller do you normally use? Unless I buy online, I really struggle to find something that doesn't shed massively. even solvent resistant ones seem to melt on me!
@@RefitandSail Thanks. I have to re copper coat my keel after some river flotsam took chunks out of the copper and barrier coatings. I've just faired it perfectly & the last thing I need is rollers shedding and having to flat off half of my work.
4 coats in total. Three minimum required for protection to get the film thickness needed, four allows for some sanding a prep work for cc without effecting the protection.
Intersting definately a tidy job mate . I cant see how it can work effectively if the majority of the copper is sealed off in waterproof resin ... the whole idea is copper needs to be exposed ....at 7 coats applied id look to sand it hard .. to expose the copper it as such . This is why semi ablative antifouls work well being soft and wear off with use . Love to see an example of a 50ft yacht moored in marina with saltwater flow / no rockwall breakwater (to trap fresh rain or a stream near by that kills growth )after say 1 year with the product before its waterblasted in travelift slings .
The surface gets a light sand before immersion to expose copper however I strongly suspect that the very specific water-based epoxy that Coppercoat supply is not as waterproof as normal epoxy we would use for laminating/glueing, I suspect it is ever so slightly porous (much like the paint matrix of a traditional Antifouling that holds biocides and slowly releases it. Others have tried to replicate what Coppercoat can do but failed to perform and suspect it’s all about the epoxy used and they are understandably very protective over its exact composition. I know a lot of boat owners that have CC and love it but for a small number its performance has been disappointing but I think application conditions also play a part in that.
Excellent overview on how it's done. I wonder what he'll be using on the prop? When I'm using normal antifoul I just coat the prop but not sure if you can do that with coppercoat.
Thanks for the vid. Always interesting to see practical advice on boats. One question thats always bugged me - is there a reason why boat antifouling or general paint application is always done with hand tools? Why not use paint spray guns? If this was a car and you needed to spray a large area and with several coats, the paint shop would be doing that. Especially if you have a tent handy. Why always the harder method? Cheers
Some yards (and individuals) definitely do spray on Antifouling and Coppercoat, it gives a great finish and the application is quicker but that is negated by the amount of additional masking and covering that is needed to avoid overspray.
how did you manage to get two coats on within 30-40 min pot life? I can just about get a 500ml kit on (working alone) within the pot life and then by the time i have mixed up the next kit the start point is just about ready for the next coat. So your interval beteen coats must be much shorter than mine🤔
@@RefitandSailmy point was you guys must be rolling on a second coat before i would have thought the first has reached the recommended level of tackiness if you are doing so within the pot life of each mix?
I wondered if Orca's like the taste of coppercoat, because I know I don't like the taste of copper... so looked through images of broken rudders and couldn't find any that were copper coated.
I don’t think the orca’s are that discerning on the coating but I seem to recall that one report/investigation made a mention of the colour of AF being used and one was less attractive than others. Don’t recall exactly. I have dark blue and the Orcas don’t bother us when sailing though them
I have been looking into this. they sell it but the "1.5 liter kit" . You mentioned 4 liters for the one side. Do you mean 4 Kits for the one side totaling 8 kits. I ask because 8 kits it what they recommend for my boat and it is a little bit smaller then your Contessa. The number of coats you have on there is what I would like to have if not more and at $155 per kit I would like to get it right the first time rather then come up short.
CC say that a co32 needs 7-7.5 L of the product but I bought 8L in total to have enough + a bit extra because I’d rather have a slightly thicker coating so there is plenty of material to burnish. Take their advise on amount needed and you will be all good.
@@RefitandSailIf a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well.👍 in the scheme of things the material cost for the additional coats is small beer and especially so if you are doing it on a DIY basis.
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
The roller and tape trick is brilliant. Thank you.😊
Almost worth a beer on its own! Haha
A thorough and very smart job sure enough as your man from Coppercoat was no doubt delighted to see and he has probably seen the full spectrum !
Thanks. By complete coincidence CC just posted the pics of the finished job on their social media channels on the day this video went live.
Nice work! Another top tip; after applying masking tape, take a sanding paper and just sand the edge a bit, this will have two advantages. You apply pressure on the tape so it sticks better and you rough up the edge a little and get a more beautiful finish!
Brilliant job and gorgeous results… Here in California there are incredibly strict anti fouling controls that aim at reducing the amount of copper released into marinas and estuaries and thus organisms that filter feed. That is one fantastic looking bottom job though 👍⛵️
Thanks!
Just spectacular. Lottie is a real showpiece now!
Thanks
Looking forward to this 👍👍
It’s a great product and as you say you have to be meticulous in preparation and follow the instructions perzactly. An extra pair of hands to do the mixing and brewing up - really helps the workflow too. Well done.👍
Totally agree
Great job again George! We’ve got our own coppercoat job at hand with 16 ltrs total 😅
This was just the video we were waiting for to see if we got all the info right to apply coppercoat the correct way. Thank you!
Best of luck, largest I have done was similar to that, a very large motorboat a few years ago.
Keep stirring to keep copper in suspension. Cordless drill with stirrer attached saves the wrists.
Yep, true, that meant a trip to the workshop which I didn’t have time to do so hand stir it was!
As I understand, a cordless drill stirrer adds bubbles to the mixture and Coppercoat doesn’t recommend it.
Hi do all boat hulls of the mid 70s suffer from osmosis like Lottie.
Westerly s for instance , have you done any repair work on Westerly s especially a bilge keel ketch.
Regards great instructional vids
🐼🐼🏴🏴
Sadly westerly yachts are pretty well known for suffering osmotic blistering, the resins used were not the finest quality but the hulls are thick! I have owned two westerly yachts, both had/have a damp or slightly blistering hull.
Do you have a part number for the Hamilton prestige rollers you used? Looks a great finish and great video. We are in the process of applying copper coat to your Marlow Hunter 31
Lovely job .! ❤
Thank you! 😊
Nice one George, great and detailed informations.
Question...
Coming back the next day for the starboard side, do you have to abrade the edge of the bow (that was treated already) or you just apply the layers over the existing coppercoat?
You can apply straight over as while the first side had done an initial cure it is still a bit soft and not done a full cure so there I’ll be a degree of chemical bond between the coats I expect. It’s never been a problem”em to overlap slightly. Have done lots of boat with cc and never had a failure but I am meticulous about the prep and the conditions for application (others not so much and have had issues).
Hello Shawn!
Beautiful work! I was curious about the pads. Thank you for addressing that little detail. How long should it last before another haul out to reapply?
People are getting 8-15 years of service life from Coppercoat but it does slowly loose its effectiveness over time. Its performance can be reestablished with burnishing but there is only so much copper in the coating.
Wow looks fabulous!
Thank you
Super job!
Thank you very much!
Nice! for a boat that remain in the sea water during summer period (say from may to october) ..whati the duration of this antifouling? I mean , it must be be replaced each year? tx
This is a multi-year antifouling product that has been proven to work for 8-16 years in some cases. It still needs a clean once or twice a year depending on how bad the fouling is in your area but you just pressure wash and go sailing!
@@RefitandSail Tx for you kind reply..So Just pressure (high?) water a couple of times yearly ...It is only applicable to keels that have been treated with epoxy?
YAY!! Refit 😂
A pleasant way to spend my Friday afternoon watching this :-) . . . Does copper coat last much longer than standard anti-foul?
10+ years and when needed can just apply 2 new coats, that is NOT needed to restrip all and completely reapply.
Yes, lasts many years
I have to paint outside. It’s late in the year to be doing copper coat Im aware but ill health has prevented me from getting t finished. It’s all prepared back to gel coat and ready to go. Question: will it be ok if rain water gets on the coppercoat after the first 24 hours? (Im battening with UK temperatures and weather to try and complete this in the next few weeks)
After 24 “should” be ok but if you can get a warm dry day to apply the quicker it will cure.
Newly applied CopperCoat looks amazing! I wish it stayed that color. My hull had it applied 10+ years ago and it seems to be working pretty well still though there are some areas that need a bit of attention. Would it be a good idea to sand the whole hull to "renew" it, and if yes what grit of sandpaper would you recommend?
Burnish it with a scotchbright pad or fine grit (400 or higher) abrasive paper all over to expose fresh copper. However after 10 years and if that has been done there is a risk you could sand through the coating - depends how much is there and if it’s been done a few times before.
Can the Coppercoat be applied with an airless sprayer?
Which brand of roller do you normally use? Unless I buy online, I really struggle to find something that doesn't shed massively. even solvent resistant ones seem to melt on me!
I think the rollers used on this job were Hamilton prestige. But I’m about to do another and will be using wider 7” rollers from Anza.
@@RefitandSail Thanks. I have to re copper coat my keel after some river flotsam took chunks out of the copper and barrier coatings. I've just faired it perfectly & the last thing I need is rollers shedding and having to flat off half of my work.
Go Team New Zealand
hello george, very nice video, how many coats of hempel‘s high protect did you apply? thx b.
4 coats in total. Three minimum required for protection to get the film thickness needed, four allows for some sanding a prep work for cc without effecting the protection.
Intersting definately a tidy job mate . I cant see how it can work effectively if the majority of the copper is sealed off in waterproof resin ... the whole idea is copper needs to be exposed ....at 7 coats applied id look to sand it hard .. to expose the copper it as such . This is why semi ablative antifouls work well being soft and wear off with use . Love to see an example of a 50ft yacht moored in marina with saltwater flow / no rockwall breakwater (to trap fresh rain or a stream near by that kills growth )after say 1 year with the product before its waterblasted in travelift slings .
The surface gets a light sand before immersion to expose copper however I strongly suspect that the very specific water-based epoxy that Coppercoat supply is not as waterproof as normal epoxy we would use for laminating/glueing, I suspect it is ever so slightly porous (much like the paint matrix of a traditional Antifouling that holds biocides and slowly releases it. Others have tried to replicate what Coppercoat can do but failed to perform and suspect it’s all about the epoxy used and they are understandably very protective over its exact composition. I know a lot of boat owners that have CC and love it but for a small number its performance has been disappointing but I think application conditions also play a part in that.
Beautiful and impressive! Does coppercoat have any electric effects? Lightning grounding💥?
Thanks. It doesn’t seem to be an issue
Excellent overview on how it's done. I wonder what he'll be using on the prop? When I'm using normal antifoul I just coat the prop but not sure if you can do that with coppercoat.
Getting anything to stick to a prop is a challenge!
Propspeed
Awesome
Thanks for the vid. Always interesting to see practical advice on boats. One question thats always bugged me - is there a reason why boat antifouling or general paint application is always done with hand tools? Why not use paint spray guns? If this was a car and you needed to spray a large area and with several coats, the paint shop would be doing that. Especially if you have a tent handy. Why always the harder method? Cheers
Drift is maybe the reason? you need more masking to a point that it may take more time and spray mist can move in mysterious ways?
Some yards (and individuals) definitely do spray on Antifouling and Coppercoat, it gives a great finish and the application is quicker but that is negated by the amount of additional masking and covering that is needed to avoid overspray.
how did you manage to get two coats on within 30-40 min pot life? I can just about get a 500ml kit on (working alone) within the pot life and then by the time i have mixed up the next kit the start point is just about ready for the next coat. So your interval beteen coats must be much shorter than mine🤔
If you can’t get a full pack of CC applied within the pot life then mix up half a pack, so 250ml of each part and 1kg of copper.
@@RefitandSailmy point was you guys must be rolling on a second coat before i would have thought the first has reached the recommended level of tackiness if you are doing so within the pot life of each mix?
@@ecnaruaLno it was all good, basically if you can touch the surface and it doesn’t come off on your hand then you can get the next coat on.
I wondered if Orca's like the taste of coppercoat, because I know I don't like the taste of copper... so looked through images of broken rudders and couldn't find any that were copper coated.
I don’t think the orca’s are that discerning on the coating but I seem to recall that one report/investigation made a mention of the colour of AF being used and one was less attractive than others. Don’t recall exactly. I have dark blue and the Orcas don’t bother us when sailing though them
If this works, then why would not the original VC 17 work?
I have been looking into this. they sell it but the "1.5 liter kit" . You mentioned 4 liters for the one side. Do you mean 4 Kits for the one side totaling 8 kits. I ask because 8 kits it what they recommend for my boat and it is a little bit smaller then your Contessa. The number of coats you have on there is what I would like to have if not more and at $155 per kit I would like to get it right the first time rather then come up short.
CC say that a co32 needs 7-7.5 L of the product but I bought 8L in total to have enough + a bit extra because I’d rather have a slightly thicker coating so there is plenty of material to burnish.
Take their advise on amount needed and you will be all good.
You can see he is using small kits in the video. Small tin of part A and a bottle of part B.
Why no mixer on a drill?
Could have done but the batches are small on a boat this size and it can be hard to mix copper that is trapped in corners of the bucket.
Lots of entrained air (air bubbles)
why mix by hand? Why not use electric mixer?
Could have done it either way
Is shaun a kiwi by chance?
No but he as worked all over as a professional skipper and yacht manager
Totally love the channel but please....the robot talking is distracting. 😊😊😊😊
Pleased you love the channel, what is robot talking? Maybe that’s a reference to the music which I know is really a personal thing…
7 coats you lost your mind
Would rather have a slightly thicker coating so there is plenty to burnish in future years
@@RefitandSailIf a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well.👍 in the scheme of things the material cost for the additional coats is small beer and especially so if you are doing it on a DIY basis.