Holy crap. I clicked on this video thinking it was going to be another "hey bro, look at my pretty oxidized TIG welds!"....you know....I half expected it to not be in english... But Damn! I was wrong...fantastic video...good information, good technique illustration, great arc shots....outstanding all around! My hat is off to you....
Thanks so much John! I REALLY appreciate that man. It means a great deal that you go out of your way to comment. Thanks again! I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Have a wonderful day!
HourGlassIngenuity I was wondering if you could throw together a video of you welding two soda cans together and show the full set up then two razor blades together. I bet it’ll rake in the 👍
Thanks for making this video. I will say that when you are pointing out that travel speed is important, which of course it is, it would be helpful to show the welding in real time not in slow motion.
This is the only actual video on the science behind color I have seen. THANK YOU!!! I think I will make the plunge and buy a furic but I hate changing my cups and weld really tight corners and always want more stick out so I think I lll just use that fupa for my aluminum too.
Thanks for watching! Definitely do not use the FUPA for aluminum.. it’s not what it is designed for and you’ll toast the diffuser with AC current. Not only that but you can’t control oxide cleaning line width of anything else with a cup that large on aluminum. Trust me, you’ll just need to switch cups.
Another dead informative video on welding! I still remember your one on ac balance when I look at an aluminium job. This one is especially useful as I haven’t yet seen one on the actual cause of discolouration. I love your scientific approach, it fulfils my ocd complex. Right now I rock a ceramic 8 cup on a ck flexloc. Cups are all I have right now but the torch is a new addition to my arsenal and combined with a foot pedal my tig game has improved unimaginably. The control is amazing. Untill now I’ve used a trigger torch made by Kemppi. Loved it but oh my a foot pedal rocks!
So glad that your foot pedal helped improve control! I’m no good with a switch, it’s too hard! 😂. As always, thanks so much for the constant support. It means a lot! Appreciate you watching!
My go-to for carbon steel is a Furick #8 or #10. I prefer the Pyrex cups for increased visibility. I try to use the least amount of gas possible and for carbon steel, as long as I’m not getting porosity, I’m all good. I see people running the #16 on carbon steel and it just seems like overkill. On Aluminum, I’m with Crummy, #5 with a standard collet body.
Yeah, I’ll use a #12 on mild steel.. I’ll also use a #20 on titanium so it just depends. If you have a dewar and gas isn’t a huge deal it’s easier to just leave the cfh cranked and the same cup on no matter what. This is mostly about stainless though ✊🏻. Yep, #4, 5 and 6 standard cups are the go to for aluminum depending on the thickness and target oxide cleaning line and tow width. Thanks for watching!
Brad.! I just want to say thank you for such an funny and awesome lesson of How Too Weld like a God.! I enjoy it so much that, i have too tell you that you are doing a wonderful and awesome at this. Keep going.🔥 James Stephen
Thank you so much James! I appreciate you going out of your way. You watching my video and commenting means a great deal to me! Thank you and I’ll keep it coming!
This was the most complete and comprehensive explanation of colour in a stainless steel weld. The travel length and speed along with blanket coverage says it all. I have never heard anyone say that colour can be ok and at the same time the stainless be sensitized, good info!
I have a 71' c10 and a 84' k10 that I am building at the same time.... I have the everlast 275 lightning with the powercool 400.... I just recently bought the furick 5 (for aluminum), a case of 8's, two jazzy's, and a set of fupa 12's(one ceramic and the other glass with the cover).... Can you do some vids on welding 20 and/or 18 gauge sheet metal?? Throw in some settings, cup sizes, and opinions.... I"ll take these to go please.... haha.... Thanks for you intuitiveness!!!!
Hey Chad, those are 2 fun projects! Awesome machine, can’t go wrong with a water cooler! I can try my nest to get around to that but It’s definitely not something I do often. I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching!
I don’t weld stainless as much as I’d like to and I’m not as good as I want to be but I run a CK worldwide flex loc torch and furick fupa when I do. I have been wanting to add a bbw to my arsenal. Also have the pro cup 8 for aluminum and the jazzy 10 I use for other stuff
That last arc shot looked like your arc cone was mondo! I use #8 pyrex lense. Just got bbw12 ceramics and the adapter for titanium. I can't get non silver stainless welds no matter what I do. 304 with 308 or 309. 309 tries to get some straw color but gets scared and stays shiny.
Hi! Good morning. What do you mean an adapter for titanium? A trialing shield? That’s a great cup! If you’re welding titanium then getting no color is what you want.. titanium should have zero oxidation. Let me know, I’m curious!
What are the part numbers for those pyrex cups , do they come complete with all the brass , who is your supplier , do they offer international freight , what gas flow do you typically run .
They are stated in the video as well as in the description. You can find the cups on Furickcups.com and I explained my gas flow in the video a couple times.. 25 cfh for a #12, 35-40 cfh for a #17 and 50 cfh for a #20 cup.. yes, he ships international. Have a great weekend.
This was shot using a dynasty 200 DX. Settings on anything reactive are super basic. Straight current with no pulse and 65 amps on the machine. Aluminum gets a little more technical! Thank you so much! I appreciate your comment greatly 👍🏻
Blues are hot. You need to pull the gas away at just the right time when the material is hot. You’ll get a feel for the colors and when you pull coverage to achieve them.
I've recently switched to standard length gas lense setup with ceramic cup. I've tried size 8 and 12. I started with number 12 cup, kept the gas flow untouched and had major problems with gas coverage. It was fizzling , the electrode and base material heavily oxidized. I increased the gas flow but no improvement. Then I turned it way down to around 4-5 L/min and it improved, but it still slightly oxidizes during ignition of the arc. After that I've tried out number 8 cup without any problems. Do you have an idea what could cause the problems with size 12? To me a gas flow of 4 L/min seems a little low and it still has some kind of problems with gas coverage with that setting. After many years of welding stainless with regular setup I wanted to switch to gas lense of a big diameter to get rid of oxidation but I was disappointed with the first results. Any help is appreciated.
I have really enjoyed using a #10 ceramic jazzy cup. I find it acceptable for my experiments with stainless, and it also does a great job on mild steel.
My go to in most cases the Fupa. Or sometimes 8cup. Depending on the situation. I pay for the argon. Like on small stainless tube I prefer the Fupa and purging. I use in the total the same amount of argon flow what else I just use for a BBW. The BBW on titanium or high end material and in some cases for stainless. Aluminum short standard collet body with a 4 or 5 cup or aly 5.
Yes sir! All very well said. Definitely a cup for every situation! You have it together! Knee up the good work man and I really appreciate the comment!
Jazzy 10 and BBW ceramic series is go to for sure. GLS Fab 16 & 20 creates a lot of yummy colors as well. Still creating an opinion on the Edge glass cups GL920 series, but have been impressive to say the least the 2 times I have used their products. Damn near impossible to beat Mr. Furick tho 👍🏼
Haha no worries! Personally I’d run about 100 amps on the machine and use the pedal to acquire the toe width and heat Input I want.. I’d flow 25 cfh through the #12 with about .750” of stock out. ✊🏻
i having welded in my life and am starting out, i work on cars for living and om wanting to do exhaust work for my car , what would you suggest for a good all around starting for tig
Hey Thanks! I appreciate you watching! I obviously don’t support any of them and I’ve never used them before but I’m sure they work fine. Maybe I’ll do a comparison soon.
I have 3 go to cups for aluminum I use the furick #5 then for thinner stainless and titanium is the furick #12 and then building SS or titanium headers or exhaust is the monster #15. But the furick #12 gas lense is on my Miller syncrowave 210 99 percent of the time.
There’s a confusion I have when I weld stainless and my weld come out blue or purple some OG’s say I’m too cold and the inspectors say I’m welding too hot what do you say
I explained this in the video but, when your welds and blue and purple you’re base materials temperature is hot when it’s exposed to atmosphere when your post flow stops.. blue and purples vary from 400-600 degrees Fahrenheit. That means you are too hot when your weld is exposed to atmosphere.. so you need a longer post flow or you need to reduce amperage if you want lighter colors like straws and deep golds.
If your amps are too low, it causes you to have to slow down, which in turn ups the heat input. Solution......Wire brush👍 if it passes xray, corrosion test and hardness tests, theyre most probably "inspectors" that have typically never picked up a torch, just go by a textbook. Tell them to do it there and then, to demonstrate. They usually wind their necks in then lol
Hey David! I’m about to do a video on welding stainless steel tube and I’ll include that info in the video but.. #8 gas lens I run about 20 cfh.. #12 flood cup I’ll run 25 cfh with .750” stick out.. I’ll run 35 cfh with a #17 and even up to 50 cfh with a #20 cup on titanium!
I was wondering why you ground your electrode after each pass you make on stainless. I don't know enough about TIG to know if it is a good practice or not, and you would have to know that the electrode is cool enough to not fuse to the workpiece.
No. Not at all.. I’ve done plenty of Xray aerospace work and I’ve never had a problem with stops and starts.. a positioner is nice but not necessary. But, these are stainless tube welds for automotive fab and most of this stuff requires stops and starts because you can’t turn an entire exhaust on a turn table and these definitely don’t require x ray.
I run a no4 cup on a gas lens all day to save argon. Only need 5-7 cfh to get clean rainbow welds. Id run a no 2 cup if it was a thing lmao. My 3/32 tungsten would probably barely fit through it haha
Hi brad my go to cup on stainless is a nice 12 fupa dupa cup I love it,and go for a furrick 5 cupfor aluminium sweet dreams Mmmm mammas apple pie......
get a new sound guy please man. car insurance commercial music and cheesy sound effects that are way too loud. The advice was great though, thanks for that.
And if your weld on stainless steel is dis coloured its shit,you have burnt the chromium out and left an iron rich surface under the discoloured oxide film which WILL rust,keep your gas low and move fast-discolouration is a shit weld END OF!!!!!
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Holy crap. I clicked on this video thinking it was going to be another "hey bro, look at my pretty oxidized TIG welds!"....you know....I half expected it to not be in english... But Damn! I was wrong...fantastic video...good information, good technique illustration, great arc shots....outstanding all around! My hat is off to you....
Thanks so much John! I REALLY appreciate that man. It means a great deal that you go out of your way to comment. Thanks again! I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Have a wonderful day!
HourGlassIngenuity Do a video on the best way to pop off stainless or carbons weld with scratch start machines
HourGlassIngenuity
I was wondering if you could throw together a video of you welding two soda cans together and show the full set up then two razor blades together.
I bet it’ll rake in the 👍
This is Kimchi Welder who is uploading welding video in Canada. Thank you for the useful information about the TIG welding.
Thank you for watching Kimchi!
I hope you all have a wonderful fun filled weekend!
“Rainbow slaying, argon munchin machine” had me dying
🤓 hahaha. Thanks for watching man!
Thanks for making this video. I will say that when you are pointing out that travel speed is important, which of course it is, it would be helpful to show the welding in real time not in slow motion.
This is the only actual video on the science behind color I have seen. THANK YOU!!! I think I will make the plunge and buy a furic but I hate changing my cups and weld really tight corners and always want more stick out so I think I lll just use that fupa for my aluminum too.
Thanks for watching! Definitely do not use the FUPA for aluminum.. it’s not what it is designed for and you’ll toast the diffuser with AC current. Not only that but you can’t control oxide cleaning line width of anything else with a cup that large on aluminum. Trust me, you’ll just need to switch cups.
Man I'm glad you're back, your videos have been my go to so I can keep learning, keep em coming.
Thanks so much dude! I really appreciate that! I’ll be posting regularly. Thanks for watching!
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Awesome video and great tips for making welders better welders I’m Andrew from NYC
Thanks so much Andrew! I really appreciate your feedback!
I’ve been stuck on the #14 moose knuckle for stainless. Great videos brother, I’m enjoying them!
Yeah that’s a great cup! Thanks for watching man. I appreciate it! 🙌🏻
Another dead informative video on welding! I still remember your one on ac balance when I look at an aluminium job. This one is especially useful as I haven’t yet seen one on the actual cause of discolouration. I love your scientific approach, it fulfils my ocd complex. Right now I rock a ceramic 8 cup on a ck flexloc. Cups are all I have right now but the torch is a new addition to my arsenal and combined with a foot pedal my tig game has improved unimaginably. The control is amazing. Untill now I’ve used a trigger torch made by Kemppi. Loved it but oh my a foot pedal rocks!
So glad that your foot pedal helped improve control! I’m no good with a switch, it’s too hard! 😂. As always, thanks so much for the constant support. It means a lot! Appreciate you watching!
My go-to for carbon steel is a Furick #8 or #10. I prefer the Pyrex cups for increased visibility. I try to use the least amount of gas possible and for carbon steel, as long as I’m not getting porosity, I’m all good. I see people running the #16 on carbon steel and it just seems like overkill. On Aluminum, I’m with Crummy, #5 with a standard collet body.
Yeah, I’ll use a #12 on mild steel.. I’ll also use a #20 on titanium so it just depends. If you have a dewar and gas isn’t a huge deal it’s easier to just leave the cfh cranked and the same cup on no matter what. This is mostly about stainless though ✊🏻. Yep, #4, 5 and 6 standard cups are the go to for aluminum depending on the thickness and target oxide cleaning line and tow width. Thanks for watching!
Damn Brad, beautiful video. Lol just amazing editing and clarity. And the purdy beads to boot! With some new interest facts also, great work brother!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching! Really means a lot! 🙌🏻👊🏻
Idk how I'm just finding your channel now. Love the channel you've got my sub man
Hey thanks so much for dropping by man! I appreciate it very much. Have a great day! 👊🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103 you aswell Brotha!!
牌什麼？
Thanks for the informative video. I enjoy learning something from your vids. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Hey Anthony! Thanks a lot for watching. I really appreciate the feedback. Have a wonderful weekend and stay safe!
Now I've gotta go weld some stainless!👊
Right now I'm running a jazzy 10, but I see bigger cups in my future! 👌 Gas lens and a 6 for aluminum, yeah that's right, I'm one those guys!
Big cups in the future 🙌🏻. Heck yeah!
Awesome vid man. You killed it! 💪🍻
Thanks for watching dude! I rest appreciate it!
Brad.! I just want to say thank you for such an funny and awesome lesson of How Too Weld like a God.! I enjoy it so much that, i have too tell you that you are doing a wonderful and awesome at this.
Keep going.🔥 James Stephen
Thank you so much James! I appreciate you going out of your way. You watching my video and commenting means a great deal to me! Thank you and I’ll keep it coming!
This was the most complete and comprehensive explanation of colour in a stainless steel weld. The travel length and speed along with blanket coverage says it all. I have never heard anyone say that colour can be ok and at the same time the stainless be sensitized, good info!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I really appreciate it! If I can ever help please just let me know!
Great reminders. Thanks brother
Thanks so much for watching! Have a great day.
Great video learned a lot, in new to tig and still practicing.
That’s fantastic! I appreciate you watching, thank you!
HourGlassIngenuity
Cheers watching from across the pond in N Ireland
John that’s incredible! I still need to get out to Ireland. It’s a Beautiful place. 🙌🏻
HourGlassIngenuity
I’ve seen you on diesel brothers before , I was in Utah 2 years ago and loved it.
I have a 71' c10 and a 84' k10 that I am building at the same time.... I have the everlast 275 lightning with the powercool 400.... I just recently bought the furick 5 (for aluminum), a case of 8's, two jazzy's, and a set of fupa 12's(one ceramic and the other glass with the cover).... Can you do some vids on welding 20 and/or 18 gauge sheet metal?? Throw in some settings, cup sizes, and opinions.... I"ll take these to go please.... haha.... Thanks for you intuitiveness!!!!
Hey Chad, those are 2 fun projects! Awesome machine, can’t go wrong with a water cooler! I can try my nest to get around to that but It’s definitely not something I do often. I appreciate your comment and thank you for watching!
Great video man it helped me out a lot and i like the explain it 👍🏼
I don’t weld stainless as much as I’d like to and I’m not as good as I want to be but I run a CK worldwide flex loc torch and furick fupa when I do. I have been wanting to add a bbw to my arsenal. Also have the pro cup 8 for aluminum and the jazzy 10 I use for other stuff
Sounds like you’re all set up man! All great choices. Ck and Furick offer top notch gear!
Weldmonger has a buy 1 get one free on the bbw
That last arc shot looked like your arc cone was mondo! I use #8 pyrex lense. Just got bbw12 ceramics and the adapter for titanium. I can't get non silver stainless welds no matter what I do. 304 with 308 or 309. 309 tries to get some straw color but gets scared and stays shiny.
Hi! Good morning. What do you mean an adapter for titanium? A trialing shield? That’s a great cup! If you’re welding titanium then getting no color is what you want.. titanium should have zero oxidation. Let me know, I’m curious!
@@hourglassingenuity103 17 adapter for the bbw which uses 2 series body. Not tried titanium yet.
Very informative thanks for sharing the knowledge .
Thanks so much for watching!
Great video, thanks. Definitely learned something.
Nicely done!
Thank you!
Our shop uses #8 gas lens for most welds and we have Miller XL gas lens with a #15 cup for some real argon eating!
Heck yeah man. I’m glad to hear most shops are at least running gas lenses!
Great video! 👍🏼 🔥
Thank you!
Dropping gems of knowledge like what’s 👌
👊🏻👊🏻
2:31 "argon-munchin'-machine" lol
Heck yeah! 😎
Hi, great video! Where can I get the clear gas lens kit?
Furickcups.com thank you!
What are the part numbers for those pyrex cups , do they come complete with all the brass , who is your supplier , do they offer international freight , what gas flow do you typically run .
They are stated in the video as well as in the description. You can find the cups on Furickcups.com and I explained my gas flow in the video a couple times.. 25 cfh for a #12, 35-40 cfh for a #17 and 50 cfh for a #20 cup.. yes, he ships international. Have a great weekend.
Great video! What machine and settings do you use? I'm always playing around looking for that perfect combo with my 200dx Miller .
This was shot using a dynasty 200 DX. Settings on anything reactive are super basic. Straight current with no pulse and 65 amps on the machine. Aluminum gets a little more technical! Thank you so much! I appreciate your comment greatly 👍🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103
Now I need an aluminum video with some settings and tips next ! 👍
I’ll definitely get around to it! 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Wrlding tig argon nya cantik banget sir 👍🤝🇮🇩
Cool to know what temps color changes!
It is! It’s pretty wild that you could perfectly replicate colors in almost range with some data and measuring equipment.
HourGlassIngenuity I like blue and colorless. 🤘🏼
So to get blues and purples I need material to be hotter before I remove gas or I need to hold the gas to longer while the hotter material cools?
Blues are hot. You need to pull the gas away at just the right time when the material is hot. You’ll get a feel for the colors and when you pull coverage to achieve them.
I've recently switched to standard length gas lense setup with ceramic cup. I've tried size 8 and 12. I started with number 12 cup, kept the gas flow untouched and had major problems with gas coverage. It was fizzling , the electrode and base material heavily oxidized. I increased the gas flow but no improvement. Then I turned it way down to around 4-5 L/min and it improved, but it still slightly oxidizes during ignition of the arc. After that I've tried out number 8 cup without any problems. Do you have an idea what could cause the problems with size 12? To me a gas flow of 4 L/min seems a little low and it still has some kind of problems with gas coverage with that setting. After many years of welding stainless with regular setup I wanted to switch to gas lense of a big diameter to get rid of oxidation but I was disappointed with the first results. Any help is appreciated.
I have really enjoyed using a #10 ceramic jazzy cup. I find it acceptable for my experiments with stainless, and it also does a great job on mild steel.
The #10 cup is a fantastic set up!
Hey mate , great video! Have you uploaded the torch Angel video yet ?
Great video! We use the exact setup! 😎
Thanks for watching! It’s a great set up 😄
My go to in most cases the Fupa. Or sometimes 8cup. Depending on the situation. I pay for the argon. Like on small stainless tube I prefer the Fupa and purging. I use in the total the same amount of argon flow what else I just use for a BBW. The BBW on titanium or high end material and in some cases for stainless. Aluminum short standard collet body with a 4 or 5 cup or aly 5.
Yes sir! All very well said. Definitely a cup for every situation! You have it together! Knee up the good work man and I really appreciate the comment!
Are these cups universal for all tig torches? I don’t have a lot of knowledge on tig welders, I am a diy at home. I have a unimig razor 200A machine.
New to TIG and using #6. The struggle is real over here. Still figuring it out with a pain in the ass lift start machine. 😤
I started tig welding aluminum at work, I use a number 5 cup with about 20-25cfh
Jazzy 10 and BBW ceramic series is go to for sure. GLS Fab 16 & 20 creates a lot of yummy colors as well. Still creating an opinion on the Edge glass cups GL920 series, but have been impressive to say the least the 2 times I have used their products. Damn near impossible to beat Mr. Furick tho 👍🏼
What amperage and chef would you suggest for .100 stainless using a FUPA12?
Chef? Clear that up for me and I’ll reply with an answer 👊🏻👊🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103 😂oops autocorrected, I meant CFH
Haha no worries! Personally I’d run about 100 amps on the machine and use the pedal to acquire the toe width and heat Input I want.. I’d flow 25 cfh through the #12 with about .750” of stock out. ✊🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103 OK, thank you for the advice ill let you know how it turns out
Dan Rupprecht absolutely! Please do. Happy to help however I can.
i having welded in my life and am starting out, i work on cars for living and om wanting to do exhaust work for my car , what would you suggest for a good all around starting for tig
👩🏭 great video
Thank you!
Great guide as usual! Let me ask, what do you think about counterfeit Furick cups, or cheap pyres cup kits from aliexpress?
Hey Thanks! I appreciate you watching! I obviously don’t support any of them and I’ve never used them before but I’m sure they work fine. Maybe I’ll do a comparison soon.
I have 3 go to cups for aluminum I use the furick #5 then for thinner stainless and titanium is the furick #12 and then building SS or titanium headers or exhaust is the monster #15. But the furick #12 gas lense is on my Miller syncrowave 210 99 percent of the time.
Heck yeah. Sounds like you have a really good rotation figured out on your welding consumables. That’s fantastic!
my fupa 12 is my go to, if not able to use that, then i run a normal number 8 cup
Both work great! That’s a food solid choice. Thanks for commenting. Much appreciated!
6:00 straw color 300f.
Blues and purple 400-600f
Well done!
Thanks so much for watching.
There’s a confusion I have when I weld stainless and my weld come out blue or purple some OG’s say I’m too cold and the inspectors say I’m welding too hot what do you say
I explained this in the video but, when your welds and blue and purple you’re base materials temperature is hot when it’s exposed to atmosphere when your post flow stops.. blue and purples vary from 400-600 degrees Fahrenheit. That means you are too hot when your weld is exposed to atmosphere.. so you need a longer post flow or you need to reduce amperage if you want lighter colors like straws and deep golds.
Thanks man I will try to lower my amperage and make sure the base metal is not too hot
If your amps are too low, it causes you to have to slow down, which in turn ups the heat input.
Solution......Wire brush👍 if it passes xray, corrosion test and hardness tests, theyre most probably "inspectors" that have typically never picked up a torch, just go by a textbook.
Tell them to do it there and then, to demonstrate.
They usually wind their necks in then lol
this helped me thanks
Absolutely! Always here if you need any help. You can message me on Instagram. Have a great weekend!
Fantastic!!!!!
What gas flow rate per cup size do you recommend?
Hey David! I’m about to do a video on welding stainless steel tube and I’ll include that info in the video but.. #8 gas lens I run about 20 cfh.. #12 flood cup I’ll run 25 cfh with .750” stick out.. I’ll run 35 cfh with a #17 and even up to 50 cfh with a #20 cup on titanium!
I was wondering why you ground your electrode after each pass you make on stainless. I don't know enough about TIG to know if it is a good practice or not, and you would have to know that the electrode is cool enough to not fuse to the workpiece.
But with all those starts and restarts it will be harder to get a weld to pass x-ray rigth?
No. Not at all.. I’ve done plenty of Xray aerospace work and I’ve never had a problem with stops and starts.. a positioner is nice but not necessary. But, these are stainless tube welds for automotive fab and most of this stuff requires stops and starts because you can’t turn an entire exhaust on a turn table and these definitely don’t require x ray.
@@hourglassingenuity103 okay its just the old timers at the shop i work at say that its the easiest place to get faults in x rays.
jørgen rafaelsen he’s not wrong at all! It’s just about technique. 👊🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103 bet! will test your technique!
My go to cup is a Furick FUPA 12. I use it for eeeeverything.
It’s a freakin good cup man! Thanks for commenting 👊🏻
@@hourglassingenuity103 It absolutely is!! No problem! Thank you for the video!
My pleasure!
canal inova welds acompanhando seu canal!
Help to learn how to weld sheets on 18 gage. Please
I run a no4 cup on a gas lens all day to save argon. Only need 5-7 cfh to get clean rainbow welds. Id run a no 2 cup if it was a thing lmao. My 3/32 tungsten would probably barely fit through it haha
I weld sch 10 atainless all day at work " process piping" ranging from 1" to 20" ... I run a a #8 ceramic for everything
Can you fix the link to Furick's stuff? It's bad.
Thanks so much bro
Love my fupa moose knuckle cups
They are good quality cups for sure! 🙌🏻
Thanks for stopping in and watching brother.
Just used my Lincoln electric 225 precision tig universal machine
Much obliged
My weld is bad gray and burn. How to avoid it
I use CK Worldwide size 18 gas lenses and everything smaller
That’s fantastic! @ckworldwide makes a great cup as well. 🙌🏻
I learned I'm still cooking the shit out of my stainless and it's pissing me off. 1/8" 316L sheet.... How hard can it be? ARGHH.
Ceramic fupa 12
Great choice!
No.8 gas lens on a SR9 torch
Did someone on this channel say “I think I can more a way better video than that” then just kill all the other welding videos....
🤭 that wasn’t the plan but I’m honored you think so! Thank you for the kind words and have an amazing day! 🙌🏻
👍👍👍
why glascup and 40cfh, 18l/m when welding easy acsess?
is your father the owner of al made Argon like everywhere, damn
And get ready to wear a path back n forth getting your bottle filled 🤣
It’s called a dewar. We don’t use bottles around here. Liquid argon is the way.
Hi brad my go to cup on stainless is a nice 12 fupa dupa cup I love it,and go for a furrick 5 cupfor aluminium sweet dreams Mmmm mammas apple pie......
That’s fantastic! Both excellent choices! Thanks for dropping in and I hope you have a great evening. Take care. Talk to you soon.
you said 45amps for stainless but in the other video for stainless tubing you said 65amps
Actual welding amperage varies from what you set your machine at 👌🏻
“How to get colorful welds on stainless steel.”
Im a jazzy guy.
👍😎👍
Gas control!
"an extremely thin layer that I can't even convert for you" because your using the imperial system.
Has nothing to do with what system I’m using but thanks for wasting my energy reading this.
YO!!! DONT EVER USE THAT BLURB SOUND @1:29 AGAIN MAN! WTF?!
get a new sound guy please man. car insurance commercial music and cheesy sound effects that are way too loud. The advice was great though, thanks for that.
And if your weld on stainless steel is dis coloured its shit,you have burnt the chromium out and left an iron rich surface under the discoloured oxide film which WILL rust,keep your gas low and move fast-discolouration is a shit weld END OF!!!!!