💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/ Check out another episode HERE🔥ruclips.net/video/yIQyOdCNC1w/видео.html🔥
ya... most of the times it is that... a beginner (like me) cannot get optimal travel speed, so you need to lower amperage... travel speed is the key...
@@luiscarlosvieira3966tig is a strange form of welding, if your too cold your metal actually gets too hot, in my opinion too hots better because you can move faster or use less pedal when to hot
Another element of heat control that wasn't mentioned here is arc length. Excessive arc length will dump more heat into the piece and cause you to slow your rate of travel, resulting in some of these issues. You just have to put the time in to develop the fine motor control to hold a tight arc as that then allows you to move faster and dump significantly less heat into the piece.
Also that too much amps isn't entirely the issue. Thermal input is (thinking back to college days) I believe η*((V*A*60)/MM per Minute). I remember when I was brand new to welding I couldn't understand why I was having issues blowing holes and cooking stuff until one of the old hands told me to turn the temperature up and go quicker and it solved a lot of issues.
fellow welder in the frasher valley and i must say i love your videos. im so glad i have found them i just got into tig welding and they have been helping alot thank you and keep it up!!!!!
@@PacificArcTigWelding Easiest welding channel to watch on RUclips I've seen so far, so thank you. I guess it helps that I recently purchased a PowerTIG 210EXT, though you don't use that one much. The CanaWeld machine looks like a winner though for sure. Thanks Dusty!
@Dusty - Many thanks. After watching this video I, my welds got better, more golden, less gray. This is what I did: 1. Went to a bigger gas lens 2. Up the gas flow just a little 3. Lowered my amperage little by little to find that sweet spot At the start of the job my welds where golden, but by the end they started getting gray again, so my technique is most likely the culprit. Because by the time I got to the end, the heat had probably built up in the work piece, so my travel speed and pedal technique needs some love. Thanks again, great video!
For me, if I haven’t done Tig in a while, I tend to be timid on the pedal and more slowly form and push the puddle. More power, quicker puddle and faster travel- less heat soak into the workpiece.
yeah you tend to forget these tricks if you been out of the game a while ,i am juts getting back into Al tig welding and having to learn again what i was once good at and forgot , my weakness has always been thin gauge ss
My welds were grey until I tightened up my arc and put more rod into the puddle. Just tried it today after watching this video. Thanks for helping what was a super frustrating month and a bottle of argon. Wish I had watched this before. It made the heat affected zone way smaller around my weld as well. I would start out with a decent lean angle but then it would lean way too far over once the puddle was formed and I started to add filler. That along with barely adding any filler was soaking the metal with heat thus gray welds. Now I’m getting shiny welds with some rainbow colors and nice golds. I used the fill and chill method to cool down the puddle. It’s progress at least, appreciate these videos!
i havent started tig welding yet cus im in school, but after i did my other types of welding, im sure il impress my teacher with this information!! i thank you man~!
I put my first stainless beads down yesterday! They started me on 1.6mm pipe (about 60 or 70 thou wall thickness). I had so much fun, I did get grey beads but not a wide heat affected zone, so maybe my speed was too slow (40A, and it was a small dia pipe and my first time on the pipe so it was tricky getting used to the angles). Thanks for the tip on speed, I might try and bump the current a bit higher and run a little faster so the heat has less time to build up!
@@Slouworker I will try to remember for the next time I'm welding. I've since got a job as a cnc op and programmer so I don't get to TIG much now. Probably a good thing because I admit I'm not very good at it lol
I started out welding stainless exhausts not to long ago and this was one thing i had to learn over time since the tin wall stuff really like to heat up fast especially at the start when its not as long. Right cup enough cfh and practice really helped.
I love your style bro. I literally just started welding a few weeks ago at my new job. It's all Marine stainless so your TIG Marine stainless or any stainless advice or videos are awesome.
Had this issue trying to weld 3" stainless exhaust pipe for the first time. Slow/fast travel speed, high/low amps, high gas flow, etc, nothing seemed to work. Everything was grey except for the last few dabs. Ended up getting a Furick BBW16 and boom! Shiny welds. Only time gear has ever solved a problem for me. So yes, adequate gas coverage. People like to say, you should be able to do it with standard gear, but at the end of the day of it gets the job done, just do it.
I have bad torch angle, and I usually don't let my welds cool down. Though I think my gas lens is a bit too dirty after forgetting to turn the argon on too many times. So I'll buy a new one and also order a furick cup, I hope it will help with the gas coverage.
I was having this issue, played with the gas flow from 5cfh to 40cfh, amperage, travel speed, gas lens, tungsten type and sizes. Nothing helped, then 1 day I practiced with all the garage doors closed and they came out perfect. Even tho there wasn't a noticeable breeze through the shop, I think all the practice with the doors open helped even through it was frustrating lol
Super well done. As a fellow creator - nailed the message per second value. Great use of throwing in clips as you talk. As an aspiring TIG welder, this was also super informative, especially being super novice level right now!
Man that comment its awesome thats my one thing i try to do everyday is one kind act. Your videos are on piont get a lot out of your tutorials. Thank u maybe a personal lesson one day can happen
I think you will find Karl Fisher (Japhands) now has his shop set-up in Campbell River Vancouver Island. As a viewer from the BC interior it is so cool to see the incredible talent and work of guys and gals coming on to RUclips from the quiet corners of BC.
@@wirefeed3419 Yeah it's pretty cool to see all of these talent people. I'm sure you know about Rust Valley Restorers in the Interior too! I thought Karl was in Langley, well another reason to visit the island I guess.
Thank you for all ways sharing your tips and tricks they all help so much I’ve not been tig welding long but your advice has helped so much Thankyou. 👍👍
And sandblast boxes can be cheap. Someone suggested I weld in an ammo can with a glass lid. I did a load of bike chain ornaments in a regular stainless sause pan from the thrift store.
i like the thumb actuated amp control better .. it just feels like i have more control and more fine control to flare the amperage to get some real thin stuff welded . my instructor handed me a cut in half soda can and told me if i could weld that back together and make it look good , that i could pass my tig test easily , and so i did lol..
I definitely recommend a water cooled torch, the gas is a whole lot more dense and colder from the torch being a lot colder and it just does a much better job at shielding, I find on mild steel welds that I don't care about the quality of the surface of the weld as much 5 lpm is more than enough with a number 6 gas lens, for stainless and other welds I want to be silvery and shiny, 15 lpm with a number 12 gas lens just pops and the gas coverage is so large I sometimes have trouble fully seeing where the HAZ is, it's reallt hard to tell on the short welds.
No shit? And I just put a cooler on my invertig. Haven't had a chance to try stainless on it again. I was wondering if that would help. Now I know! Thanks.
Weld bevel, root face(if required) fit up, torch angle, Weld amps, speed, and gas cup all work together in producing an effective weld. Too much heat, you’ll get suck back on your root. Not properly letting your weld puddle melt in at the start of the welding process, will leave holes and or a void in the weld depending on gauge of material. Post purge helps eliminate a fish eye-hole at the end or stop of the welding process.
I started Tig about a month ago and mine are gray too. I was running at about 90 amps for 1/8” coupons but yes, going very slow. Coupons are warping too. Someone suggested running at 120 amps and really moving since at 90 amps the puddles so small I can’t move very fast. Also I’m using a cheap regulator that came with it, gas was at about 15cf… maybe I’ll try more amps, more gas and going faster.
so when i get gray welds at 50amps so i dont have enough gas coverage, welds are not gray without rod but when i add rod it is gray. Am i using wrong rods?
make a purge line for thin stuff. a sheet metal guide duct taped to the back of a thin sheet will direct shield gas to the back and prevent burn through while the gas coming out the cup will shield the puddle, then its all about controlling heat.
I have found the type of tungsten you use has a effect as well and to make sure the tungsten is not sticking out of the cup to far.. also the pressure on you’re gas flow I like to stay in the 15-20 range
Sounds a bit of a paradox to say move quicker but with lower Amps which will surely mean there's enough time for a sufficient pool to form before filler is added? So would it be safe to say, higher amps but a quicker travel speed?
There is an App that I use by Miller that all you do is select your process and then your metal thickness and it will show you the settings to start with to get you going. CFH, Amps, wire speed if you need it or for TIG your cup size, filler metal size, and so on. Great for test day!!
Just got my first tig welder, and started out to exercise yesterday. This is very valuable info for me👍🏻 Just one question, when I released the trigger, the tungsten is still striking arc along with gas afterflow🤷♂️Sorry for my english🤦🏻♂️
All good:) Is it a thumb trigger? I do know from some experience that triggers can be a little bit jumpy sometimes, I’m not totally close the circuit even though you press the button. I have seen the same problem my foot titles, although I definitely see less of that problem with those. Hopefully it doesn’t give you too much trouble! Thank you so much for watching!
@@PacificArcTigWelding Thank you so much for your input master🙂Yes, it is a thumb trigger. I even got a foot pedal, but havent used it yet. Still struggling with my greywelds and my flow, to get more comfortable with the hole process. It would be perfect if you could get on a plane and get over here (Sweden) asap, and give me a crash course😅Dont know how many argonbottles and tungsten it will take, to get those sweet welds😩💸 Thanx for the videos, keep em coming mate🍻
Hi Dusty, love all your videos and the knowledge they are giving me. Still can’t get out of the grey by trying going from 120 down to 80 amps and adjusting flows from 23 to 30. Close to the puddle and all of my welds are really flat, tried slowing and speeding my feed and it all did nothing for color or bead size. I had my welder looked at as it’s a 4 in one ac/dc rig, stick and plasma cutter in one and I lost the cutter pilot flame and I don’t know when they worked on it if it could have developed an internal leak, still going to try that out as tonight while experimenting for an hour I went from 1500 to 1300 psi on my main gauge and don’t know if that was excessive loss at mostly 23 cfh for a medium size bottle. Getting a little frazzled. I’ll keep trying and keep watching your videos along with the Fabricator series. Thanks again for all the time you spend on these great learning tools😊
Hofferinthelab - did you resolve your problem? How? I'm having the same issues, have tried all the tips given in the video and comments. Am more than a little frazzled.
Only once I got a good large gas lense did I get the colours. I still can't do long coloured beads as once you move along, the hot bead gets uncovered by argon and becomes oxidised. So I do 2.5 cm lengths at a time and allow enough post flow so it cools down and keeps colours or no colour which is a sound weld. If suger on underside of weld may stop colours also.
Good stuff. Here's something back atcha; a new peace sign. With back of hand facing away, like Churchill's victory sign, and thumb flicking behind. Flame of Victory against oppression, my Friends.
I'm just learning and my welds are gray on mild steel. I know it's my travel speed. At least my welds are starting to look better. My heat affected zones are getting smaller, and my test pieces are no longer warping. I hope to be able to start thinking about the color of my welds soon. ;) I really want to start getting blue and purple welds!
Dusty, I'm looking at a 1991 HOBART TIGWAVE 250 that's for sale near me. Have you had any experience with it or know anything about this model? Thanks in advance. PS I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them.
So does it mean that if your weld on stainless steel is even slightly gray, the bead is ruined? Also, don't they use somesort of acid to clean stainless welds?
Hey man thx for the content as it is very helpful! I have a serious question. I am relatively new to tig. I can weld a stainless fillet or just run a bead in flat plate and have no discolour or oxidization after. BUT when i go to a corner joint the go grey and ugly. I am travelling faster than before at 75 amps and i had some progress getting a shinier weld. Went to break and came back then i was grey again. I run 1/16th which is 308L filler and a 3/32 tungsten. Sorry for the banter but if there is anything you can suggest to me through what i had told you i would greatly appreciate it! Thx for sharing your knowledge! :)
I see comments about my very question, but none quite come out and clearly state the answer, maybe. Too much heat, I get it, but how do I know if I need higher amps and faster travel, or lower amps and slower travel? I'm really having trouble with this, but I am also trying to weld 0.4 mm stainless to thicker stainless, so I guess that's pretty difficult ?
💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
Check out another episode HERE🔥ruclips.net/video/yIQyOdCNC1w/видео.html🔥
Its three years since you posted this and oh boy does the country need it. Thanks.
You made this one just for me, didn't you? What a pal.
Yes, he did actually lol 😆 dope as always D-man! Such a giver lol
Yeah...just the lesson I needed as well
Hey pals !
Lol I feel like that
This answered a lot for me. Thanks so much for always just wanting people to go do good in the world.
“Random act of kindness”..... you’re such a dope dude. Wish the world had more of you! 🤘🏻😎
Dusty thank you for your random act of kindness. You are a great teacher and I suspect, an even better human being.
I knew this, but it's still good to hear again!
Really like these short format videos!
Hi Dusty the other thing that causes excessive heat For beginners is too low amperage so they can weld slower when they are learning torch control.
ya... most of the times it is that... a beginner (like me) cannot get optimal travel speed, so you need to lower amperage... travel speed is the key...
@@luiscarlosvieira3966tig is a strange form of welding, if your too cold your metal actually gets too hot, in my opinion too hots better because you can move faster or use less pedal when to hot
Yes i definitely have this problem. Tig newb. Thanks for the tips
Another element of heat control that wasn't mentioned here is arc length. Excessive arc length will dump more heat into the piece and cause you to slow your rate of travel, resulting in some of these issues. You just have to put the time in to develop the fine motor control to hold a tight arc as that then allows you to move faster and dump significantly less heat into the piece.
Also that too much amps isn't entirely the issue. Thermal input is (thinking back to college days) I believe η*((V*A*60)/MM per Minute). I remember when I was brand new to welding I couldn't understand why I was having issues blowing holes and cooking stuff until one of the old hands told me to turn the temperature up and go quicker and it solved a lot of issues.
Thanks so much. This has become one of my favorite channels.
Thanks Dusty!!! You explain things so well. I appreciate what you do, and your time for us noobs. Well done!!!
Love it! Clear and straight to the point. Best video's.
Great advice thanks!
hey, i'm a fellow BC welder and i'm going to go for my A level soon these videos are super helpful thanks a lot man
Awesome! Happy to help:)
This is so simple and obvious. But I never thought of it. Very helpful.
Thank you for describing this in a very logical way.
fellow welder in the frasher valley and i must say i love your videos. im so glad i have found them i just got into tig welding and they have been helping alot thank you and keep it up!!!!!
Short, simple, to the point, and not chock full of product pitches :) THANK YOU FOR BEING UNLIKE THE OTHER CHANNELS!
Thank you! I appreciate you watching and happy you enjoyed:))))
@@PacificArcTigWelding Easiest welding channel to watch on RUclips I've seen so far, so thank you. I guess it helps that I recently purchased a PowerTIG 210EXT, though you don't use that one much. The CanaWeld machine looks like a winner though for sure. Thanks Dusty!
Great lesson.
God bless you and your work.you willalways do well.
@Dusty - Many thanks. After watching this video I, my welds got better, more golden, less gray. This is what I did:
1. Went to a bigger gas lens
2. Up the gas flow just a little
3. Lowered my amperage little by little to find that sweet spot
At the start of the job my welds where golden, but by the end they started getting gray again, so my technique is most likely the culprit. Because by the time I got to the end, the heat had probably built up in the work piece, so my travel speed and pedal technique needs some love. Thanks again, great video!
For me, if I haven’t done Tig in a while, I tend to be timid on the pedal and more slowly form and push the puddle. More power, quicker puddle and faster travel- less heat soak into the workpiece.
yeah you tend to forget these tricks if you been out of the game a while ,i am juts getting back into Al tig welding and having to learn again what i was once good at and forgot , my weakness has always been thin gauge ss
My welds were grey until I tightened up my arc and put more rod into the puddle. Just tried it today after watching this video. Thanks for helping what was a super frustrating month and a bottle of argon. Wish I had watched this before. It made the heat affected zone way smaller around my weld as well. I would start out with a decent lean angle but then it would lean way too far over once the puddle was formed and I started to add filler. That along with barely adding any filler was soaking the metal with heat thus gray welds. Now I’m getting shiny welds with some rainbow colors and nice golds. I used the fill and chill method to cool down the puddle. It’s progress at least, appreciate these videos!
Solid advice as always 👍🏼
Love your videos. Very clear explanation and easy to follow instructions. Excellent videos. Thanks for the great job
i havent started tig welding yet cus im in school, but after i did my other types of welding, im sure il impress my teacher with this information!! i thank you man~!
I learned something and I got u on the random act of kindness
Just started tig welding. This explained a lot for me. Thank man. Great video.
I put my first stainless beads down yesterday! They started me on 1.6mm pipe (about 60 or 70 thou wall thickness). I had so much fun, I did get grey beads but not a wide heat affected zone, so maybe my speed was too slow (40A, and it was a small dia pipe and my first time on the pipe so it was tricky getting used to the angles). Thanks for the tip on speed, I might try and bump the current a bit higher and run a little faster so the heat has less time to build up!
A bit too low for that diameter of pipe, 60+ ish and faster travel speed would fix it
@@Slouworker I will try to remember for the next time I'm welding. I've since got a job as a cnc op and programmer so I don't get to TIG much now. Probably a good thing because I admit I'm not very good at it lol
Great information Dusty....
Thank you 👍
Helped a lady get back on the road 😎
Thanks for the info man
thanks a bunch dusty 👍👍
Absolutely my friend, thank you for watching!
Dusty seems like a pretty COOL CAT!!!!!
nice work
I started out welding stainless exhausts not to long ago and this was one thing i had to learn over time since the tin wall stuff really like to heat up fast especially at the start when its not as long. Right cup enough cfh and practice really helped.
I love your style bro. I literally just started welding a few weeks ago at my new job. It's all Marine stainless so your TIG Marine stainless or any stainless advice or videos are awesome.
Welding mild steel i kept getting gray welds, ive found using more heat more gas and a closer stickout entire fixed my issue
You are the man Dusty! Thanks for spreading great welding information and positivity!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I appreciate your help, I bought a tig and needed to learn to use it your video's have taught alot
Awesome info. Thank you! 👍
Had this issue trying to weld 3" stainless exhaust pipe for the first time. Slow/fast travel speed, high/low amps, high gas flow, etc, nothing seemed to work. Everything was grey except for the last few dabs. Ended up getting a Furick BBW16 and boom! Shiny welds. Only time gear has ever solved a problem for me. So yes, adequate gas coverage. People like to say, you should be able to do it with standard gear, but at the end of the day of it gets the job done, just do it.
I have bad torch angle, and I usually don't let my welds cool down. Though I think my gas lens is a bit too dirty after forgetting to turn the argon on too many times. So I'll buy a new one and also order a furick cup, I hope it will help with the gas coverage.
Fellow islander here - thanks for the video!
Thanks I just discovered your video now.
I was having this issue, played with the gas flow from 5cfh to 40cfh, amperage, travel speed, gas lens, tungsten type and sizes. Nothing helped, then 1 day I practiced with all the garage doors closed and they came out perfect. Even tho there wasn't a noticeable breeze through the shop, I think all the practice with the doors open helped even through it was frustrating lol
GBC welding course. And I'm sitting in the booth listening to Pacific because the instructor doesn't teach. :|
Thank you for a job well done. I like your presentation style and attitude very much. Several acts of kindness in your name coming up....
Super well done. As a fellow creator - nailed the message per second value. Great use of throwing in clips as you talk. As an aspiring TIG welder, this was also super informative, especially being super novice level right now!
That helped me a lot. Thank You for sharing. Take care.
Man that comment its awesome thats my one thing i try to do everyday is one kind act. Your videos are on piont get a lot out of your tutorials. Thank u maybe a personal lesson one day can happen
Good skills dude👍
Great video, nice work. Us canadian tig welders are some of the best in the world.
Vancouver Island eh? Cool to see all these local RUclipsrs. Japhands Kustoms is in Langley and we are in Tsawwassen. Keep up the great videos bruh!
I think you will find Karl Fisher (Japhands) now has his shop set-up in Campbell River Vancouver Island. As a viewer from the BC interior it is so cool to see the incredible talent and work of guys and gals coming on to RUclips from the quiet corners of BC.
@@wirefeed3419 Yeah it's pretty cool to see all of these talent people. I'm sure you know about Rust Valley Restorers in the Interior too! I thought Karl was in Langley, well another reason to visit the island I guess.
I've only ever oxy acetylene welded, cut, and brazed. This looks good to me for precision. Just subbed to learn more. Thanks fellow Canuck. ✌
🪙🪙thanks man!
I love your channel!
Thank you for all ways sharing your tips and tricks they all help so much I’ve not been tig welding long but your advice has helped so much Thankyou. 👍👍
Awesome! Happy I can help! Thank you for watching :-)
Weld in a gas box. Media blasting boxes filled with shielding gas works well. Very little modification necessary.
Stay kind.
And sandblast boxes can be cheap.
Someone suggested I weld in an ammo can with a glass lid.
I did a load of bike chain ornaments in a regular stainless sause pan from the thrift store.
i like the thumb actuated amp control better .. it just feels like i have more control and more fine control to flare the amperage to get some real thin stuff welded . my instructor handed me a cut in half soda can and told me if i could weld that back together and make it look good , that i could pass my tig test easily , and so i did lol..
I definitely recommend a water cooled torch, the gas is a whole lot more dense and colder from the torch being a lot colder and it just does a much better job at shielding, I find on mild steel welds that I don't care about the quality of the surface of the weld as much 5 lpm is more than enough with a number 6 gas lens, for stainless and other welds I want to be silvery and shiny, 15 lpm with a number 12 gas lens just pops and the gas coverage is so large I sometimes have trouble fully seeing where the HAZ is, it's reallt hard to tell on the short welds.
No shit? And I just put a cooler on my invertig. Haven't had a chance to try stainless on it again. I was wondering if that would help. Now I know! Thanks.
Weld bevel, root face(if required) fit up, torch angle, Weld amps, speed, and gas cup all work together in producing an effective weld. Too much heat, you’ll get suck back on your root. Not properly letting your weld puddle melt in at the start of the welding process, will leave holes and or a void in the weld depending on gauge of material. Post purge helps eliminate a fish eye-hole at the end or stop of the welding process.
Excellent video. Thank you!
Ive been having the same issue and this solved it ! 👍
I started Tig about a month ago and mine are gray too. I was running at about 90 amps for 1/8” coupons but yes, going very slow. Coupons are warping too. Someone suggested running at 120 amps and really moving since at 90 amps the puddles so small I can’t move very fast. Also I’m using a cheap regulator that came with it, gas was at about 15cf… maybe I’ll try more amps, more gas and going faster.
Love your sign off message buddy 👍🏽
Thx Dusty..you rock! Great tips!
As always, great job. Good information and well presented.
so when i get gray welds at 50amps so i dont have enough gas coverage, welds are not gray without rod but when i add rod it is gray. Am i using wrong rods?
I’m coming out to Canada this year n N been welding about half a year, would be dope to see u out there n get some pointers
make a purge line for thin stuff. a sheet metal guide duct taped to the back of a thin sheet will direct shield gas to the back and prevent burn through while the gas coming out the cup will shield the puddle, then its all about controlling heat.
Great info Bro. I know I'm seeing improvement in my welds from your institutional videos.
Weld done!
Awesome do u have online classes
I have found the type of tungsten you use has a effect as well and to make sure the tungsten is not sticking out of the cup to far.. also the pressure on you’re gas flow I like to stay in the 15-20 range
Sounds a bit of a paradox to say move quicker but with lower Amps which will surely mean there's enough time for a sufficient pool to form before filler is added? So would it be safe to say, higher amps but a quicker travel speed?
What about using more clamps or cold bars?
Thanks Dusty, gonna go a bit faster today on some beads, hopefully that resolves the salmon pink/green color im getting
I would add to make sure you don't have any drafts or circulating air blowing, like an open garage door or fan blowing near your welding area.
subscribed, very rad video thank you!!
Could u post the link of this list of excessive temperature ?
Hola puede aver contaminación del gas argón ?
There is an App that I use by Miller that all you do is select your process and then your metal thickness and it will show you the settings to start with to get you going. CFH, Amps, wire speed if you need it or for TIG your cup size, filler metal size, and so on. Great for test day!!
Just got my first tig welder, and started out to exercise yesterday. This is very valuable info for me👍🏻 Just one question, when I released the trigger, the tungsten is still striking arc along with gas afterflow🤷♂️Sorry for my english🤦🏻♂️
All good:) Is it a thumb trigger?
I do know from some experience that triggers can be a little bit jumpy sometimes, I’m not totally close the circuit even though you press the button. I have seen the same problem my foot titles, although I definitely see less of that problem with those. Hopefully it doesn’t give you too much trouble! Thank you so much for watching!
@@PacificArcTigWelding Thank you so much for your input master🙂Yes, it is a thumb trigger. I even got a foot pedal, but havent used it yet. Still struggling with my greywelds and my flow, to get more comfortable with the hole process.
It would be perfect if you could get on a plane and get over here (Sweden) asap, and give me a crash course😅Dont know how many argonbottles and tungsten it will take, to get those sweet welds😩💸
Thanx for the videos, keep em coming mate🍻
Hey it’s all the the right amps right
Hi Dusty, love all your videos and the knowledge they are giving me. Still can’t get out of the grey by trying going from 120 down to 80 amps and adjusting flows from 23 to 30. Close to the puddle and all of my welds are really flat, tried slowing and speeding my feed and it all did nothing for color or bead size. I had my welder looked at as it’s a 4 in one ac/dc rig, stick and plasma cutter in one and I lost the cutter pilot flame and I don’t know when they worked on it if it could have developed an internal leak, still going to try that out as tonight while experimenting for an hour I went from 1500 to 1300 psi on my main gauge and don’t know if that was excessive loss at mostly 23 cfh for a medium size bottle. Getting a little frazzled. I’ll keep trying and keep watching your videos along with the Fabricator series. Thanks again for all the time you spend on these great learning tools😊
Hofferinthelab - did you resolve your problem? How?
I'm having the same issues, have tried all the tips given in the video and comments. Am more than a little frazzled.
Thanks for the info. Approx. how many sec
Only once I got a good large gas lense did I get the colours. I still can't do long coloured beads as once you move along, the hot bead gets uncovered by argon and becomes oxidised. So I do 2.5 cm lengths at a time and allow enough post flow so it cools down and keeps colours or no colour which is a sound weld. If suger on underside of weld may stop colours also.
Awesome content man your my favourite teacher keep up the fantastic work!!!
Good stuff. Here's something back atcha; a new peace sign. With back of hand facing away, like Churchill's victory sign, and thumb flicking behind. Flame of Victory against oppression, my Friends.
I'm just learning and my welds are gray on mild steel. I know it's my travel speed. At least my welds are starting to look better. My heat affected zones are getting smaller, and my test pieces are no longer warping. I hope to be able to start thinking about the color of my welds soon. ;) I really want to start getting blue and purple welds!
Hi, Mate. Thanks for the great video! Can I apply for a re-post?
I’m new to your channel and I love it!! Very good teaching my friend. You’ll be seeing me around. Thanks, J.R
And here i thought gray was not enough amps , ill work omn my amps and see now ☝️
Dusty, I'm looking at a 1991 HOBART TIGWAVE 250 that's for sale near me. Have you had any experience with it or know anything about this model? Thanks in advance. PS I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them.
Go a bigger electrode and long pointed electrode
Let me post a naive question: Can this gray stuff be somewhat fixed with those acid-treatments post welding?
Yes! However it will not help with overheated base metal that has been compromised due to excessive heat. 🤙🤙🤙
So does it mean that if your weld on stainless steel is even slightly gray, the bead is ruined? Also, don't they use somesort of acid to clean stainless welds?
How do I set up AHP Alphatig 200x to be colorful? I'd really appreciate it if you could help🙏
Thanks
Hey man thx for the content as it is very helpful! I have a serious question. I am relatively new to tig. I can weld a stainless fillet or just run a bead in flat plate and have no discolour or oxidization after. BUT when i go to a corner joint the go grey and ugly. I am travelling faster than before at 75 amps and i had some progress getting a shinier weld. Went to break and came back then i was grey again. I run 1/16th which is 308L filler and a 3/32 tungsten. Sorry for the banter but if there is anything you can suggest to me through what i had told you i would greatly appreciate it! Thx for sharing your knowledge! :)
I see comments about my very question, but none quite come out and clearly state the answer, maybe. Too much heat, I get it, but how do I know if I need higher amps and faster travel, or lower amps and slower travel? I'm really having trouble with this, but I am also trying to weld 0.4 mm stainless to thicker stainless, so I guess that's pretty difficult ?