Great minds think alike, or hands. It seems my hand is the one doing the thinking because it naturally dips the tungsten every so often without me even thinking about it.
@@bobroberts2371 oh gawd Black Fentan*l tungstens that's just the plague we ned in this peaceful and not-toxic-at all environment which is the welding internet thank you 😂
I really love this video. You taught me to TIG weld couple years ago. Just watched your videos and started laying beads. REALLY BAD BEADS!! But I was trying. Then I started to by my own consumables instead of using what ever I could find in the shop at work. You had mentioned the Lyzr tungsten so I purchased some and I do feel that it works better than what I was using. I also purchased some tig cups from Weld Metals Online along with some puzzles to practice on. I am very thankful that I cam across you videos cause it taught me a new skill that I really enjoy.
@tittlemouse92 No, I have not started a side business. I was just learning while I was at work. I wish I could start a side business welding stuff but I don't have my own welder or a garage/shop to work out of. But one of these day's it will happen.
Bro! Your videos got me into welding and Everlast. I just purchased a Typhoon 230 I am freaking stoked to use. Gonna be visiting your channel more frequently
Thank you, Justin! I'm no longer a "working" welder but you have explained this issue better than anyone I've heard. I, too, use only the CK LaYZr tungsten for everything. It's the only one I recommend anymore for inverter rigs.
Here's why Justin uses the chartreuse rods: "The Tungsten LaYZr electrodes from CK WorldWide are best for automated or robotic applications in A/C or D/C due to the low voltage tolerance (changes in tip to work-piece distance) using inverter or transformer-based constant current power sources." -- He's a robotic welding machine!
It’s funny I’ve been professional tig welding for 15 years and I’m 35 and welding since age 10 IV tried so many tungsten and the welding shop gave me this tungsten to try, I sharpened it and on aluminum it held a point and IV never looked back, it’s the best by far, I had an old time tell me I was doing it wrong and such then he came back a half hr later to question his own existence and then start asking me how I welded that and made it look like a stack of dimes. I said well I don’t want to teach you the wrong method haha, he smiled and said obviously I have no idea what I’m talking about, and since then he uses this lime green stuff, and his welding has drastically improved.
I remember the red scare. I was in my local auto parts store and they had packets of reds marked down from $60 to $2... yep I'm never going to run out of reds
Dude you have the best advice! I FB marketplace'd a $200 used DC rig from Jeg's, and man, as a car guy, I wish I would have done this forever ago. But throwing myself into body repair, with no pedal or pulse with no experience, uh. Has really been quite a challenge lol. I'm welding my shock towers on an 05 focus right now, watching your videos during cool down. Thanks again! PS - Would love to see a vid on exactly what I'm doing. Specifically doing bodywork metal with the most basic of TIGs, no pedal. With dirty ass seams lol. Someone telling me to lay the torch down and go back up to 3/32" from 1/16" tungsten, and switching from 1/16" and 3/32" filler depending on how big my blowout was, using spot weld pliers to get copper on the back of rocker panel pinch welds, getting a $30 electric belt file sander etc etc. were all immensely helpful as I went along.
Thanks Justin. Great information. I just sold a distributor a ton of tungsten and I had to research the process they were using to find the needed tungsten.
Heading to Vegas for my class on Friday, can't wait! Your last two Weld Coach videos are awesome to help cut through the seemingly overwhelming amount of options - especially for someone like me who's just about to get into TIG welding.
GOOD TO KNOW ABOUT PURE TUNGSTEN NOT BEING THE BEST FOR INVERTER MACHINES, I'M GETTING BACK INTO WELDING AFTER ALMOST 20 YRS & HAVE A WHOLE LOT OF GREEN & RED TO USE UP. I'M LIKING THIS NEW CHANNEL JUSTIN, GREAT CONTENT ..
I like 2% Ceriated personally for carbon, stainless and high nickel alloys, 2% lanthinated is my preferred for aluminum. I've dabbled with most colors back about 10 years ago when I was just learning to weld in college, but gray and blue are the ones that stuck best.
I learned from the beginning of teaching myself to Tig weld and it was 3/32 2% lanthanide blue....... 1/8 purple for aluminum welding over 150amps.......
@@hammer5997 I got the same setup a primeweld tig225x w/Maxcool 3000 and th FL230 Tig torch 25' super flex lead's. I fell in love with the flexloc after the first night of work with it.
I'm a novice, learning from Justin. Last year, I watched something on TFS that recommended purple (Don't remember the brand, but I bought CK) and it worked OK to my beginner's eyes. I tried 2% lanthanated on aluminum and felt it lost its point sooner, however, there was something wrong with my welder, and I will take another look when I get it back from the repair shop. Great videos as usual. Thanks, Justin.
i really wanna try that layzr stuff, i only use red still and it is the best. the little bit of beta decay stops on your clothes and doesnt get absorbed, so long as you dont breath the dust from grinding
Dude I love your videos I’m a mechanic so I do weld but I’m no welder lol but I learn so much from ur videos just stuff I never knew lol and I have a stockpile of red lol
I certainly appreciate the information. I'm not near as experienced at welding as you are, but have experienced a lot of the things with tungstens you described. I concluded in the end that, it didn't matter one bit. My weld was only as good as my technique. The more I welded, the better I got, irregardless of the tungsten. Great information and good opinions as well.
Excellent information Justin. I learned on an old machine and was kind of stuck in my ways. Three years ago, I got an inverter machine and struggled some to adapt. Basically, I learned what you just covered, I could've used this advice to make my transition easier, take heed young welders!!
I'm stubborn and set in my ways and still run 100% transformer machines lol. I've ran pure tungsten ( green) since day 1 and will never look back. Great info and keep up the good work
I also used red but my shop ran out so we were in a few colors before I settled on E3/purple and I use red and purple at home. I may give chartreuse a shot.
Started to learn on a saturated core Lincoln machine with thoriated and agree that it is just about perfect for most everything. Holds the point (as long as I don't stick it in the puddle that is) just about all day. Ball the tip and AC weld aluminum just fine. Thick aluminum sections on DC with Helium and a fair bit of current, again it just works. But I also have lanthinated, ceriated, zirconated and a couple of mixes. None have worked as well as Red. That hard re-strike on an inverter with the others I found a fix on my machine (Miller Dynasty) at least. I simply touch the tip to the work piece, pull back to striking distance, and then hit the throttle. Don't ask why it works, I don't know. I weld so little now days and have a hell of stock of various tungsten electrodes but I will order up some of this stuff and give it a go next time I need to stick some metal together. Good video, look forward to more brain dumps from you.
At home I’m generally using a 1.5% lanthanated, and at the shop our guys are using either that, or ceriated. I don’t have super strong opinions on any of it except for the purple rare earth e2 stuff. It seems to break up at amperage like he said in the video, but it also seems to break up randomly without cause or warning. Not a fan at all. Also subscribed. So there’s that. I think splitting between the weld specific stuff and the project stuff was a good move. I enjoy project content more, but I like this stuff too. So now I can choose easier. 👍🏻
2% thoriated…………………it is what gives us salty old weldors on the internet who refuse to get with the times our glowing personalities!! Seriously, another well done video Justin 👍. These days I use CK 2% lanthanated or LaYZr on my inverter welder
I was given a couple rods of purple tungsten for one of my tig classes that I was supposed to use during the semester. It worked really well on everything I welded. However, I did get some zerconiated and ceriated for aluminum and A/C work, but I will still sometimes just use purple.
Hi Justin, Great info, i am just getting started with tig welding Aluminum, i hear so many different things when it comes to tungsten and filler rod, I will be working with 6160 (T6) 2"-4" tubing and weld in bungs for air temperature and coolant sensors etc, I trust you opinion, i see you mentione a lazer tungsten? i never heard of it , can you lead me in the right direction , Brand , color, etc, also i been told to get 4043 filler rod if that sounds right
I love these videos, wish I had these when I first bought my Tig welder, would have saved me a lot of buying twice 🤣🤣 Thanks for the great content Jorge Uk
I tig aluminum mostly, so I really like 2% lanthanated. Tried E3, not a huge fan, and I've been meaning to try CK Lazyr just haven't yet. I will say that i have LOVED every single CK product i have touched.
On my Inverter machine a Gold 2,4 holds up better than a 3,2 Green. I would estimate that a green 3,2 can handle about 70 amps for AC on aluminum. (air cooled torch) Seems to be very machine dependent. (I usually run Gold for all-purpose, and rarely red 1,6 if I demand a small diameter cup)
2% lanthanated, holds its tip just fine. It has been tested to perform better than 2% thoriated. Read the diamond ground products book on tungsten to understand what the oxide does.
Great vid. Also worth mentioning the cheap collets, lenses, diffusors and cups. They're the plague too! especially when you're learning, you need to obtain quality certified consumables so you know if there's a screwup, it's you 100%.
@@jimc3678 You're commenting something irrelevant to my comment, I didn't say "cheap stuff made in china", you filled that in your mind. Chinese industry has the problem of being perceived as crap because if you want to pay less they can give you less demanding QC or parts that doesn't meet specified parameters. Where's made it's completely irrelevant. As a matter of fact, my worst customer experience was with Fronius, which are made in austria. Also, if you want to talk about stuff made in "the old world" but it's completely junk, there you have fronius' tig torches. There's a couple of China mainland and Taiwan companies that are turning out really amazing products, like Everlast, Nova torches, CK torches, etc.
good video. for most stuff just one allrounder does the job. its only when you start pushing limits thats when tungsten choice has benefits. eg cheap machines that don't like low amp starts, changing to a tungsten that works better at low amps starts can help. for learning just stick with a good known allrounder. nothing worse than chasing your tail due to poor consumables.
I missed the red scare as I have an old school transformer machine and got a healthy supply of tungsten with it, also I dont TIG lot, wonder if now that the scare is over if you can get red again?
Man! I learned a lot from this video. I've been using purple for everything, getting decent results. I thought it was the best there was and I actually thought it was the radioactive stuff! I didn't know about red. I will give the chartreuse ones a try.
Thanks Coach! Due to the previously signed NDA I am no longer allowed to discuss Tungsten or the various colors or voice my opinion in any fashion what so ever. We Thank You for your support.
Thorium decays into radon, which diffuses away as a gas and becomes lead and polonium. There are some very short-lived isotopes in between, but when you consider that the rod is about 1-2% Th, whose isotopes have half-lives from ten to millions of years, the actual quantity of radium in your shop at any given moment from your electrodes is probably lower than that naturally seeping in through the foundation. The biggest hazard is inhaling particles of ground electrode. Modern inverter welders with RF start also don't depend on ionizing radiation to start an arc, because they're using RF to accomplish the same effect. There's no doubt that red electrodes are good at what they do, but they're radioactive for century-old reasons, and welding technology has evolved a little bit since then.
OK, I knew this would be a touchy subject, But when the "great scare" was on here in Australia, Thoriated Tungstens became a bit rare, and we still had Zirconiated for AC. At work for DC we tried a couple of other "offerings" from our welding supplier. We tried 1 % lanthanated, black end, I found them not good at all, we tried Ceriated Grey ends, they aren't too bad, pretty good on AC and fair to good on DC for what I do, then we went for E3 Purple ends, (which I had also seen on a UK channel, were a big hit over there) so we have been using them for everything for a couple of years now, I found recently that they don't like High Amps on AC for all Day welding they start splitting (after that much punishment) and become erratic, I saw a clip on some channel that said that Zirconiated are still the Best High power AC Electrode, E3 is still good for Medium Amps and we have a few packets of 1/16" 3/32" and 1/8", I have used some Zirconiated recently for an Aluminium job I was on for a couple of days straight and found the ends held up well, and I found a Packet of 1/8" Ceriated, that work quite well. I have not seen those Layizr Chartreuse ends, available here in Australia, So That's my 2 cents worth, hope this helps.
For Aluminum/Alumina i use Green or White. For Steel Gray or Purple/Pink. The Uni Electrode i found was Golden. And i do have a Inverter. Alu, Löffel and Igor the Welder are both making these balls for Alu.
Good stuff. I think I missed the big anti-red craze, and its still my favorite for anything steel, stainless, or nickel based. I was there for the big push on purple, and wasn't impressed. Not bad in any way, but not particularly good in any way either. I do like the blue (2% lanthanated) for aluminum over green because it will hold its shape over a much wider amp range. Ill have to try the one you recommended though, that's new to me.
I weld but haven't gotten deep into TIG just yet, but I have researched the hell out of it through your channel and others that seem to know what they're talking about. Everything I've come across suggests that the tri-mix is an excellent all-purpose consumable, whether it's the LaZYr or E3. Thoriated tungsten doesn't scare me- I studied chemistry in college and learned that there are A LOT of naturally occurring things around us that are "radioactive". Coal fired generation plants even release some naturally occurring radiation. Beyond that, I have yet to see or read anything suggesting that the older generation of fabricators that used thoriated tungsten are having any cancer issues, so I'm not worried about. Hell, given it's reputation as being "radioactive" probably means it's cheaper than the tri-mixes. If it scares you, just use a properly rated respirator while grinding it out- that's where the danger is, when you get the stuff airborne while grinding. Beyond that, probably safe enough.
Bananas are radioactive. However, your theory about it being cheaper may not hold. Handling any sort of radioactive materials requires licensing, and that's not free.
I’ve also been using “purple tungsten” for about a year now and don’t have any complaints about it loves the heat and is pretty consistent through the board
2% Lanthanated is working well for me so far in class. Used your head to head comparison video to pick it! For the record I've had pretty good luck with a couple of cheap consumable brands, aside from a back cap kit where the long one's about 3/4 too short. The only anomalies I've had so far were when I accidentally used a stainless fill rod on aluminum like some sort of massive idiot. School's got series 20s which is just a really simple gas lens design - kind of hard to screw up, or at least to screw up bad enough you'd notice it at the amps I'm running.
Our problem at work is these new inverters of Miller Lincoln, machines just smoke a tungsten and I work in aerospace and you can see the particles come out and go into the material it’s only in aluminum, or allowed a certain percentage through the Mac particle and die
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I've found that a good way to avoid the minor dulling that 2% lanthanated may exhibit is to frequently dip and regrind too often to ever notice.
It works on thoriated tungsten also!
lols
Haha! That's how I usually avoid it!
Great minds think alike, or hands. It seems my hand is the one doing the thinking because it naturally dips the tungsten every so often without me even thinking about it.
😂😂
Straightforward, entertaining, and a little humor... that's a recipe for a great video. Thanks brother
Glad you enjoyed it!
I think the next vid needs to be in a homeless camp discussing the different versions of meth. . . .
@@WeldCoachOfficial Im loving your teaching/storytelling style!!
@@bobroberts2371 oh gawd Black Fentan*l tungstens that's just the plague we ned in this peaceful and not-toxic-at all environment which is the welding internet thank you 😂
A fine artist through and through!! Great vid, and comment... Cheers
Very informative, if I can ever get beyond dipping and sticking the tungsten into the parent material this color thing might come in handy.
no, the next step is stopping the filler from jumping to the electrode rather than the puddle!
I have certainly learned quite a bit on here and the other videos. This is a no BS channel. Thanks for the great tips.
This is the best overview and recommendation I've found. Thanks for the original content!
I really love this video. You taught me to TIG weld couple years ago. Just watched your videos and started laying beads. REALLY BAD BEADS!! But I was trying. Then I started to by my own consumables instead of using what ever I could find in the shop at work. You had mentioned the Lyzr tungsten so I purchased some and I do feel that it works better than what I was using. I also purchased some tig cups from Weld Metals Online along with some puzzles to practice on. I am very thankful that I cam across you videos cause it taught me a new skill that I really enjoy.
@tittlemouse92
No, I have not started a side business. I was just learning while I was at work. I wish I could start a side business welding stuff but I don't have my own welder or a garage/shop to work out of. But one of these day's it will happen.
I love this series, i have rewatched them a dozen times, thank you, and when i can afford weld coach online. I am there.
Bro! Your videos got me into welding and Everlast. I just purchased a Typhoon 230 I am freaking stoked to use. Gonna be visiting your channel more frequently
Thank you, Justin! I'm no longer a "working" welder but you have explained this issue better than anyone I've heard. I, too, use only the CK LaYZr tungsten for everything. It's the only one I recommend anymore for inverter rigs.
Here's why Justin uses the chartreuse rods: "The Tungsten LaYZr electrodes from CK WorldWide are best for automated or robotic applications in A/C or D/C due to the low voltage tolerance (changes in tip to work-piece distance) using inverter or transformer-based constant current power sources." -- He's a robotic welding machine!
It’s funny I’ve been professional tig welding for 15 years and I’m 35 and welding since age 10 IV tried so many tungsten and the welding shop gave me this tungsten to try, I sharpened it and on aluminum it held a point and IV never looked back, it’s the best by far, I had an old time tell me I was doing it wrong and such then he came back a half hr later to question his own existence and then start asking me how I welded that and made it look like a stack of dimes. I said well I don’t want to teach you the wrong method haha, he smiled and said obviously I have no idea what I’m talking about, and since then he uses this lime green stuff, and his welding has drastically improved.
I remember the red scare. I was in my local auto parts store and they had packets of reds marked down from $60 to $2... yep I'm never going to run out of reds
Just be careful when grinding 🫡
Always @RaffyMaBoi
Dude you have the best advice! I FB marketplace'd a $200 used DC rig from Jeg's, and man, as a car guy, I wish I would have done this forever ago. But throwing myself into body repair, with no pedal or pulse with no experience, uh. Has really been quite a challenge lol. I'm welding my shock towers on an 05 focus right now, watching your videos during cool down. Thanks again!
PS - Would love to see a vid on exactly what I'm doing. Specifically doing bodywork metal with the most basic of TIGs, no pedal. With dirty ass seams lol. Someone telling me to lay the torch down and go back up to 3/32" from 1/16" tungsten, and switching from 1/16" and 3/32" filler depending on how big my blowout was, using spot weld pliers to get copper on the back of rocker panel pinch welds, getting a $30 electric belt file sander etc etc. were all immensely helpful as I went along.
Thanks Justin. Great information. I just sold a distributor a ton of tungsten and I had to research the process they were using to find the needed tungsten.
Great video. Excellent info and I really appreciate getting good info in an entertaining way. :)
Did just what you said, tried a bunch of things. When LaYZr landed in the collet, I fell in love. Really glad to hear you landed on the same choice!
Heading to Vegas for my class on Friday, can't wait! Your last two Weld Coach videos are awesome to help cut through the seemingly overwhelming amount of options - especially for someone like me who's just about to get into TIG welding.
Can't wait for more of these informational videos to come out.
GOOD TO KNOW ABOUT PURE TUNGSTEN NOT BEING THE BEST FOR INVERTER MACHINES, I'M GETTING BACK INTO WELDING AFTER ALMOST 20 YRS & HAVE A WHOLE LOT OF GREEN & RED TO USE UP. I'M LIKING THIS NEW CHANNEL JUSTIN, GREAT CONTENT ..
I like 2% Ceriated personally for carbon, stainless and high nickel alloys, 2% lanthinated is my preferred for aluminum. I've dabbled with most colors back about 10 years ago when I was just learning to weld in college, but gray and blue are the ones that stuck best.
tq sir for your priceless information...it is my first time doing Tig welding.especially cold welding.
Great information and entertaining too. I'm loving the new channel Justin. Thanks!
I learned from the beginning of teaching myself to Tig weld and it was 3/32 2% lanthanide blue....... 1/8 purple for aluminum welding over 150amps.......
Same here. Except my purple was a split pack (1/16 and 3/32). But I haven't had any issues and my setup is a Primeweld 225 (thanks Justin...lol)
@@hammer5997 I got the same setup a primeweld tig225x w/Maxcool 3000 and th FL230 Tig torch 25' super flex lead's. I fell in love with the flexloc after the first night of work with it.
@@danielsplayhouse3804 The maxcool is on my Christmas list...lol.
I learned from your videos and always appreciate your straightforward approach.
2% thoriated is my favorite because is always stays razor sharp for me
I'm a novice, learning from Justin. Last year, I watched something on TFS that recommended purple (Don't remember the brand, but I bought CK) and it worked OK to my beginner's eyes. I tried 2% lanthanated on aluminum and felt it lost its point sooner, however, there was something wrong with my welder, and I will take another look when I get it back from the repair shop.
Great videos as usual. Thanks, Justin.
Thank you for the helpful information. 👍🏻👍🏻
Terrific explanation! Will order some of that “fancy green”. Thanks for making the video Justin!
i really wanna try that layzr stuff, i only use red still and it is the best. the little bit of beta decay stops on your clothes and doesnt get absorbed, so long as you dont breath the dust from grinding
Educational while entertaining is a nice mix Justin, thanks for your take on this.
Great Video! While welding in Aerospace, I use 2% Lanthenated Manufactured by Wolfram in Germany
Great info. Just ordered some LaYzr to try.
Dude I love your videos I’m a mechanic so I do weld but I’m no welder lol but I learn so much from ur videos just stuff I never knew lol and I have a stockpile of red lol
I certainly appreciate the information. I'm not near as experienced at welding as you are, but have experienced a lot of the things with tungstens you described. I concluded in the end that, it didn't matter one bit. My weld was only as good as my technique. The more I welded, the better I got, irregardless of the tungsten. Great information and good opinions as well.
Thank you 🙏 Justin i will stick to 2% lanthanated or Laser CK tungsten. Still learning, I can use all the help i can get. Youre the best good buddy!
Awesome video, Justin!!! Thank you.
Excellent information Justin. I learned on an old machine and was kind of stuck in my ways. Three years ago, I got an inverter machine and struggled some to adapt. Basically, I learned what you just covered, I could've used this advice to make my transition easier, take heed young welders!!
This new videoserie is genious! Thx a lot
It's "including me", not "including myself" and thank you for making the color difference easy to understand.
Thanks for the tungsten rundown.
I was experiencing electrode splitting when welding aluminum so I got 2% thoriated however I changed settings and just used my red tip tungsten.
I'm stubborn and set in my ways and still run 100% transformer machines lol. I've ran pure tungsten ( green) since day 1 and will never look back. Great info and keep up the good work
Best tungsten for carbon steel?
As always, a lot of great information.
Appreciate your honesty dude, thanks.
I been using the lazr tungsten for a couple of months now and I absolutely love it!!
Cane Kid also props those. Have to give um a go.
I also used red but my shop ran out so we were in a few colors before I settled on E3/purple and I use red and purple at home. I may give chartreuse a shot.
Mate your vids are ace, about time someone gave good advice on tig welding keeping things simple.
Started to learn on a saturated core Lincoln machine with thoriated and agree that it is just about perfect for most everything. Holds the point (as long as I don't stick it in the puddle that is) just about all day. Ball the tip and AC weld aluminum just fine. Thick aluminum sections on DC with Helium and a fair bit of current, again it just works. But I also have lanthinated, ceriated, zirconated and a couple of mixes. None have worked as well as Red. That hard re-strike on an inverter with the others I found a fix on my machine (Miller Dynasty) at least. I simply touch the tip to the work piece, pull back to striking distance, and then hit the throttle. Don't ask why it works, I don't know. I weld so little now days and have a hell of stock of various tungsten electrodes but I will order up some of this stuff and give it a go next time I need to stick some metal together. Good video, look forward to more brain dumps from you.
Yep, I haven't used layzr yet . Now I got to get some of that stuff . Thanks Justin .
Great info , thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks Justin!
At home I’m generally using a 1.5% lanthanated, and at the shop our guys are using either that, or ceriated. I don’t have super strong opinions on any of it except for the purple rare earth e2 stuff. It seems to break up at amperage like he said in the video, but it also seems to break up randomly without cause or warning. Not a fan at all.
Also subscribed. So there’s that. I think splitting between the weld specific stuff and the project stuff was a good move. I enjoy project content more, but I like this stuff too. So now I can choose easier. 👍🏻
Thanks Justin
*Wow, this was a great video on this subject.*
2% thoriated…………………it is what gives us salty old weldors on the internet who refuse to get with the times our glowing personalities!!
Seriously, another well done video Justin 👍. These days I use CK 2% lanthanated or LaYZr on my inverter welder
Can you do a video on what to do once you dip the tungsten? How to clean or grind or cut it
I was given a couple rods of purple tungsten for one of my tig classes that I was supposed to use during the semester. It worked really well on everything I welded. However, I did get some zerconiated and ceriated for aluminum and A/C work, but I will still sometimes just use purple.
Thanks for covering this. Subscribed, as I was your last channel.
So for us beginners who do not know what are the reliable name brands of tungsten are could you please provide a short list? thanks.
Hi Justin, Great info, i am just getting started with tig welding Aluminum, i hear so many different things when it comes to tungsten and filler rod, I will be working with 6160 (T6) 2"-4" tubing and weld in bungs for air temperature and coolant sensors etc, I trust you opinion, i see you mentione a lazer tungsten? i never heard of it , can you lead me in the right direction , Brand , color, etc, also i been told to get 4043 filler rod if that sounds right
I love these videos, wish I had these when I first bought my Tig welder, would have saved me a lot of buying twice 🤣🤣
Thanks for the great content
Jorge
Uk
I tig aluminum mostly, so I really like 2% lanthanated. Tried E3, not a huge fan, and I've been meaning to try CK Lazyr just haven't yet. I will say that i have LOVED every single CK product i have touched.
Great content. I’m an old school red and green guy. This spurred me on to try different types of tungsten…
On my Inverter machine a Gold 2,4 holds up better than a 3,2 Green.
I would estimate that a green 3,2 can handle about 70 amps for AC on aluminum. (air cooled torch)
Seems to be very machine dependent. (I usually run Gold for all-purpose, and rarely red 1,6 if I demand a small diameter cup)
Thank you This Old Justin!
I don't tig weld...yet lol but I enjoy learning about it. :)
2% lanthanated, holds its tip just fine. It has been tested to perform better than 2% thoriated. Read the diamond ground products book on tungsten to understand what the oxide does.
Hey Coach.....put me in the game.......always wonderful information Justin.....Paulie Brown
🖐🏿🖐🏿🖐🏿
Great info.. Thanks!
so red is ok to use? i found a pack of red tungsten back of my tool box. going to be tig welding this week.
Great vid. Also worth mentioning the cheap collets, lenses, diffusors and cups. They're the plague too! especially when you're learning, you need to obtain quality certified consumables so you know if there's a screwup, it's you 100%.
On the spot!
CK is made in China, just like the "cheap." stuff.
@@jimc3678 You're commenting something irrelevant to my comment, I didn't say "cheap stuff made in china", you filled that in your mind. Chinese industry has the problem of being perceived as crap because if you want to pay less they can give you less demanding QC or parts that doesn't meet specified parameters. Where's made it's completely irrelevant. As a matter of fact, my worst customer experience was with Fronius, which are made in austria. Also, if you want to talk about stuff made in "the old world" but it's completely junk, there you have fronius' tig torches. There's a couple of China mainland and Taiwan companies that are turning out really amazing products, like Everlast, Nova torches, CK torches, etc.
Got it. Thanks,
Thanks for the video.
Was wondering if you can still buy Red Tungsten. The good stuff not some cheap thing that says it is Red tungsten.
I'll get signed up on that weld coach soon. it's a great idea that sounds like fun.
good video. for most stuff just one allrounder does the job. its only when you start pushing limits thats when tungsten choice has benefits. eg cheap machines that don't like low amp starts, changing to a tungsten that works better at low amps starts can help. for learning just stick with a good known allrounder. nothing worse than chasing your tail due to poor consumables.
i still use thoriated tungstens since that is what i'm used to to each there own
I missed the red scare as I have an old school transformer machine and got a healthy supply of tungsten with it, also I dont TIG lot, wonder if now that the scare is over if you can get red again?
Man! I learned a lot from this video. I've been using purple for everything, getting decent results. I thought it was the best there was and I actually thought it was the radioactive stuff! I didn't know about red. I will give the chartreuse ones a try.
great video man
justin, is omne that workes vbest on a dc only for steel?
The intro showed you back to your normal self Justin! Happy to see that!
Thanks Coach!
Due to the previously signed NDA I am no longer allowed to discuss Tungsten or the various colors or voice my opinion in any fashion what so ever.
We Thank You for your support.
I took your advice in the 'my first Tig video' and bought a pack of purple... Lol
Damnit should have bought from weld metals online!
Thorium decays into radon, which diffuses away as a gas and becomes lead and polonium. There are some very short-lived isotopes in between, but when you consider that the rod is about 1-2% Th, whose isotopes have half-lives from ten to millions of years, the actual quantity of radium in your shop at any given moment from your electrodes is probably lower than that naturally seeping in through the foundation. The biggest hazard is inhaling particles of ground electrode.
Modern inverter welders with RF start also don't depend on ionizing radiation to start an arc, because they're using RF to accomplish the same effect.
There's no doubt that red electrodes are good at what they do, but they're radioactive for century-old reasons, and welding technology has evolved a little bit since then.
OK, I knew this would be a touchy subject, But when the "great scare" was on here in Australia, Thoriated Tungstens became a bit rare, and we still had Zirconiated for AC. At work for DC we tried a couple of other "offerings" from our welding supplier. We tried 1 % lanthanated, black end, I found them not good at all, we tried Ceriated Grey ends, they aren't too bad, pretty good on AC and fair to good on DC for what I do, then we went for E3 Purple ends, (which I had also seen on a UK channel, were a big hit over there) so we have been using them for everything for a couple of years now, I found recently that they don't like High Amps on AC for all Day welding they start splitting (after that much punishment) and become erratic, I saw a clip on some channel that said that Zirconiated are still the Best High power AC Electrode, E3 is still good for Medium Amps and we have a few packets of 1/16" 3/32" and 1/8", I have used some Zirconiated recently for an Aluminium job I was on for a couple of days straight and found the ends held up well, and I found a Packet of 1/8" Ceriated, that work quite well. I have not seen those Layizr Chartreuse ends, available here in Australia, So That's my 2 cents worth, hope this helps.
Do you know anything about the Gold stuff? I’ve heard that’s similar to chartreuse but haven’t used it
For Aluminum/Alumina i use Green or White. For Steel Gray or Purple/Pink. The Uni Electrode i found was Golden. And i do have a Inverter. Alu, Löffel and Igor the Welder are both making these balls for Alu.
Good stuff. I think I missed the big anti-red craze, and its still my favorite for anything steel, stainless, or nickel based. I was there for the big push on purple, and wasn't impressed. Not bad in any way, but not particularly good in any way either. I do like the blue (2% lanthanated) for aluminum over green because it will hold its shape over a much wider amp range. Ill have to try the one you recommended though, that's new to me.
I weld but haven't gotten deep into TIG just yet, but I have researched the hell out of it through your channel and others that seem to know what they're talking about. Everything I've come across suggests that the tri-mix is an excellent all-purpose consumable, whether it's the LaZYr or E3. Thoriated tungsten doesn't scare me- I studied chemistry in college and learned that there are A LOT of naturally occurring things around us that are "radioactive". Coal fired generation plants even release some naturally occurring radiation. Beyond that, I have yet to see or read anything suggesting that the older generation of fabricators that used thoriated tungsten are having any cancer issues, so I'm not worried about. Hell, given it's reputation as being "radioactive" probably means it's cheaper than the tri-mixes. If it scares you, just use a properly rated respirator while grinding it out- that's where the danger is, when you get the stuff airborne while grinding. Beyond that, probably safe enough.
Bananas are radioactive. However, your theory about it being cheaper may not hold. Handling any sort of radioactive materials requires licensing, and that's not free.
@@JCWren You may very well be 100% correct, sir, as to the price due to hazardous nature.
I’ve also been using “purple tungsten” for about a year now and don’t have any complaints about it loves the heat and is pretty consistent through the board
Who makes the chartreuse tungsten? I can't find it in name brands.
Thanks!
Please do one on pulse TIG !
I use Gold tungstens I dont run very hot though mainly around 40amps highest I go is like 90-100 amps
2% Lanthanated is working well for me so far in class. Used your head to head comparison video to pick it! For the record I've had pretty good luck with a couple of cheap consumable brands, aside from a back cap kit where the long one's about 3/4 too short. The only anomalies I've had so far were when I accidentally used a stainless fill rod on aluminum like some sort of massive idiot. School's got series 20s which is just a really simple gas lens design - kind of hard to screw up, or at least to screw up bad enough you'd notice it at the amps I'm running.
Justin, i'm stuck with my Esab heliarc 161 tranny machine for the time being, what tungsten would you reccomend for welding ALuminium?
Thanks for the info. When my blue stuff runs out, I'll try out the chartreuse stuff.
like the blue demon pinks quite a bit, needed some 16th so i grabbed some of those and thats what i run now
E3 purple . My favorite
Shout out to that dude on TFS for setting me straight on the layzr. Only been welding a few years and have yet to touch anything else
Our problem at work is these new inverters of Miller Lincoln, machines just smoke a tungsten and I work in aerospace and you can see the particles come out and go into the material it’s only in aluminum, or allowed a certain percentage through the Mac particle and die
I've got so much red stockpiled in my shed I don't even have to heat the place....