I highly suggest to use four long bolts to guide the seal in and prevent it from rotating when working on the lip. It is a biatche to dress up the lip while trying not to make it rotate. I used a tongue depressor, split it in half to make it thin and then curved the tip, and let the tip soak in oil a minute or two, it makes it slippery to prevent from scratching the rubber seal when pushing it in working your way around the crank tip. The four long bolts once it sits properly, replace with short designated bolts.
planning to replace the rear main seal on a 2010 Tiguan... couple of questions... 1. is Permatex black or Permatex red an o.k. sealant for the rear main seal flange? 2. which main seal to you recommend more... the Iabed industries or the basic OEM? 3. I've heard that if the PCV valve on a 2.0 Turbo fails it can cause the oem seal to fail due to increased engine pressure. If the Iabed industries is used, it looks like it might hold back the pressure more in the event of a PCV failure. If the assessment about the Iabed industries holding back increased pressure when a PCV fails is correct, could this cause some other catastrophic failure in the engine vs a seal replacement?
i prefer the black sealant , i also prefer the iabed rear main seal, the factory one is just a seal glued to a a metal piece and the glue fails when the pcv fails and the only way to fix it is to replace it, its pretty much the only seal like that on the engine, but a failed pcv could push out other seals, typically the upper chain seal.
You have this video + another video with a bad thrust bearing. I know the OEM RMS (new at least) seems tighter around the drive. This seal seems to have play. You have another video where someone threw a thrust bearing. So, I just changed my clutch due to stock failure. I went ahead and put this iabed in. I hear the idle / neutral flywheel noise, but another slightly different noise I am hearing is during initial acceleration, and seems to get quieter when I am coasting. I may be a nervous nancy here, but I can't help but think the additional play in this iabed seal may be allowing the drive to move / vibrate. I would like to know your thoughts on this.
the rear main is strictly just for sealing oil so neither of them have any affect on the crank shaft besides just sealing it , i think you are just being a nervous Nancy
Great video! I am getting ready to tackle this job on an 09 A4 quattro (automatic). I will use the IABED RMS upgrade. Do you have any recommendations for replacement parts or tools to have handy for the transmission removal/RMS replacement? I am planning on servicing the transmission as well.
That inner lip has that spring wire surrounding it, right? Granted I haven't done the install yet, but it seems like that lip is pretty sturdy and already pointing in the right direction. Shouldn't it stay pointing the right way if you put a little oil on it and push gently? In looking at it, it is hard to imagine how it could flip inside out. I guess it will make more sense once I'm in there with it. Also, did you do anything special to press the seal into the iabed Flange? Lube? Hydraulic press and giant cup? Great channel. Thx for the effort.
i just used a smooth hammer and hammered it in, you always run the risk of flipping the lip regardless of seal style, the iabed is the style with the spring in it, but most people don't know you can still damage the seal installing.
how did you press the seal on to the new flange?? I am about to replace my clutch and I wanted to pull the trigger on one of these iAbed seals to do it as well. Ive heard great reviews on these so long as they installed properly. but cant find ANYONE on the internet that shows you how to press the seal together
Thanks for the lip tip...priceless...and you actually respond to most comments...another rarity. If I didn't want to do it b/c of labor, what is the estimate cost and I realize only rough estimate for a 2010 audi a4 b8 tfsi?
@@carwerks101 You are right. Just got an estimate from an Audi shop but not a dealer. 1500 bucks b/c of Quattro drive and automatic which is harder than manual.
Curious how many of these iabed you have put on and if you have ever seen any issues with them? Also, where did you get your battery powered socket wrench?
i have done a few, i have never had any complaints about them, i have a link in my description for one on amazon for a cheap electric ratchet, the one i use is matco but its the same as the one on amazon
Hi, just out of curiosity-do you recommend the iabed ‘upgraded’ rear main over OEM? And if you have time to explain, why one over the other? Mine just started to leak and I’m a little mixed on which to buy. Thank you in advance!
Hello thanks for all your content!!! I couldn’t find anyone else and your videos are awesome! Do you happen to know the torque specs for the rear main? I’m currently watching your video and taking off my dsg transmission to get it done.
@@carwerks101 I'm doing a rebuild on the transmission too. Before I start the job will I be ok reusing the snap rings, flange, small and large hubs with the new plates, discs and cover?
I hope many people don't follow this. The manufacturer of the upgraded kit specifies that you MUST put rtv on the two horizontal bars towards the bottom of the rms install area (upper oil pan to block) or it WILL LEAK
Bay M - The manufacturer doesn't specify anything. There are no instructions sent with the part or available anywhere online. Kind of lame if you ask me. Where did you see this?
Hey I need help guys so i have transmission fluid leaking between my rear main seal and cant hold any ATF fluid because of it. How hard is it to replace the rear main seal? I have a 2014 vw Jetta se 1.8t. Do I need to take it into a vw dealer or is it something i can handle on my own??
@@carwerks101 I know its trans fluid because I dropped the trans pan saw there was no fluid in the pan and some metal shavings. So I tried to refill it and saw the liter I put in leaking out from the main seal dripping. So I stopped. So it's the torque converter? Because before I saw the leak my engine was winding with the typical trans sound of low fluid and then I lost acceleration all together. So I thought the Jetta stopped because of no trand fluid in the transmission?
@@carwerks101 Im actually watching "GTI rear main seal replacement, world record?!" I have a 2011 a3 quattro but getting the trans out has to be fairly similar.
Hello thanks for all your content!!! I couldn’t find anyone else and your videos are awesome! Do you happen to know the torque specs for the rear main? I’m currently watching your video and taking off my dsg transmission to get it done.
I was looking for this exact type of vid to show details of the seal lip. nowhere to be found. but you did it! this will help alot of folks! thanks.
I highly suggest to use four long bolts to guide the seal in and prevent it from rotating when working on the lip. It is a biatche to dress up the lip while trying not to make it rotate.
I used a tongue depressor, split it in half to make it thin and then curved the tip, and let the tip soak in oil a minute or two, it makes it slippery to prevent from scratching the rubber seal when pushing it in working your way around the crank tip.
The four long bolts once it sits properly, replace with short designated bolts.
I typically use the actual tool for these installs, but couldn't find it that day
best video on yt for sure on this
Do you have a video from beginning to end on how to get to rear main seal? I have bought tiguan and its leaking everywhere.
planning to replace the rear main seal on a 2010 Tiguan... couple of questions...
1. is Permatex black or Permatex red an o.k. sealant for the rear main seal flange?
2. which main seal to you recommend more... the Iabed industries or the basic OEM?
3. I've heard that if the PCV valve on a 2.0 Turbo fails it can cause the oem seal to fail due to increased engine pressure. If the Iabed industries is used, it looks like it might hold back the pressure more in the event of a PCV failure. If the assessment about the Iabed industries holding back increased pressure when a PCV fails is correct, could this cause some other catastrophic failure in the engine vs a seal replacement?
i prefer the black sealant , i also prefer the iabed rear main seal, the factory one is just a seal glued to a a metal piece and the glue fails when the pcv fails and the only way to fix it is to replace it, its pretty much the only seal like that on the engine, but a failed pcv could push out other seals, typically the upper chain seal.
Any info on how are these from iabed holding up vs OEM?
You have this video + another video with a bad thrust bearing. I know the OEM RMS (new at least) seems tighter around the drive. This seal seems to have play. You have another video where someone threw a thrust bearing. So, I just changed my clutch due to stock failure. I went ahead and put this iabed in. I hear the idle / neutral flywheel noise, but another slightly different noise I am hearing is during initial acceleration, and seems to get quieter when I am coasting. I may be a nervous nancy here, but I can't help but think the additional play in this iabed seal may be allowing the drive to move / vibrate. I would like to know your thoughts on this.
the rear main is strictly just for sealing oil so neither of them have any affect on the crank shaft besides just sealing it , i think you are just being a nervous Nancy
Awesome video thanks for the tech tips
Great video! I am getting ready to tackle this job on an 09 A4 quattro (automatic). I will use the IABED RMS upgrade. Do you have any recommendations for replacement parts or tools to have handy for the transmission removal/RMS replacement? I am planning on servicing the transmission as well.
thanks for the great video
do you have to torque the rear main seal bolts and what cleaner did you use after wards?
I don’t torque them, torque spec is about 12nm and I just clean first with parts wash and after with parts wash if necessary
@@carwerks101 ok thank you very much. tackling it tomorrow!
Did you lube the seal before installation?
you didn't have any more problems, never had more oil leaks?
Nope
That inner lip has that spring wire surrounding it, right? Granted I haven't done the install yet, but it seems like that lip is pretty sturdy and already pointing in the right direction. Shouldn't it stay pointing the right way if you put a little oil on it and push gently? In looking at it, it is hard to imagine how it could flip inside out. I guess it will make more sense once I'm in there with it.
Also, did you do anything special to press the seal into the iabed Flange? Lube? Hydraulic press and giant cup?
Great channel. Thx for the effort.
i just used a smooth hammer and hammered it in, you always run the risk of flipping the lip regardless of seal style, the iabed is the style with the spring in it, but most people don't know you can still damage the seal installing.
Are you running the same seal? Noticed any leaking as yet?
Not my car, but I have not had anyone complain yet about one leaking unless it was installed incorrectly
how did you press the seal on to the new flange?? I am about to replace my clutch and I wanted to pull the trigger on one of these iAbed seals to do it as well. Ive heard great reviews on these so long as they installed properly. but cant find ANYONE on the internet that shows you how to press the seal together
beat it in with a rubber mallet
@@carwerks101 so just like a GM axle shaft seal loll. thanks man!
Thanks for the lip tip...priceless...and you actually respond to most comments...another rarity. If I didn't want to do it b/c of labor, what is the estimate cost and I realize only rough estimate for a 2010 audi a4 b8 tfsi?
an A4 is a bit more work so i would guess that a shop would charge north of 1000$ to replace it
@@carwerks101 You are right. Just got an estimate from an Audi shop but not a dealer. 1500 bucks b/c of Quattro drive and automatic which is harder than manual.
Curious how many of these iabed you have put on and if you have ever seen any issues with them? Also, where did you get your battery powered socket wrench?
i have done a few, i have never had any complaints about them, i have a link in my description for one on amazon for a cheap electric ratchet, the one i use is matco but its the same as the one on amazon
Hey,so just wondering, this is a common problem just on TSI engine or it can show up on FSY BPY engines too?
Yup, both fail
What about the torque specs on the seal
Hi, just out of curiosity-do you recommend the iabed ‘upgraded’ rear main over OEM? And if you have time to explain, why one over the other? Mine just started to leak and I’m a little mixed on which to buy. Thank you in advance!
this is nice and easy to install and the seal is more stout than the stock one, so i recommend this one
carwerks101 Awesome! Really quick, i forgot to ask-do you still need the guide/ tool (T20097) to install the iabed?
How much are we talking here to repair ? I have to go to VW dealer
They will probably charge 6 hours labor plus parts
Hello thanks for all your content!!! I couldn’t find anyone else and your videos are awesome! Do you happen to know the torque specs for the rear main? I’m currently watching your video and taking off my dsg transmission to get it done.
What type of RTV did you use?
Hi, love the video! What sealant did you use?
I use black silicone sealant, you can pick up a tube from vw
@@carwerks101 Where do i apply the sealant?
Did you ever find out your block was cracked ?
Nvm was a piece of dust lmfao , nice video Thankyou
... this is the second video you made replacing the RMS on this same engine
Link to other video? It would have the be a re upload because I’ve never done the same car twice
Can the triple squares from the axle be removed without air tools?
Massive Dubstep yes, just need to keep the engine from rotating when trying to break them loose
@@carwerks101 Awesome! I'll grab a friend to stomp on the brakes.
Massive Dubstep that works too!
@@carwerks101 I'm doing a rebuild on the transmission too. Before I start the job will I be ok reusing the snap rings, flange, small and large hubs with the new plates, discs and cover?
Where I do you buy the seal.
Iabed industries
Do you have to drain oil before?
No
I hope many people don't follow this. The manufacturer of the upgraded kit specifies that you MUST put rtv on the two horizontal bars towards the bottom of the rms install area (upper oil pan to block) or it WILL LEAK
Bay M 🥱
Bay M - The manufacturer doesn't specify anything. There are no instructions sent with the part or available anywhere online. Kind of lame if you ask me. Where did you see this?
No torque wrench?
Nah, I’m thugged out.
Cure time?
Couple hours
Sweet!!! Thank you. By the way, is that an upgraded aftermarket rear main seal?
yeah its the iabed industries seal
Hey I need help guys so i have transmission fluid leaking between my rear main seal and cant hold any ATF fluid because of it. How hard is it to replace the rear main seal? I have a 2014 vw Jetta se 1.8t. Do I need to take it into a vw dealer or is it something i can handle on my own??
Of its transmission fluid then it's your transmission seal for the torque converter
@@carwerks101 I know its trans fluid because I dropped the trans pan saw there was no fluid in the pan and some metal shavings. So I tried to refill it and saw the liter I put in leaking out from the main seal dripping. So I stopped. So it's the torque converter? Because before I saw the leak my engine was winding with the typical trans sound of low fluid and then I lost acceleration all together. So I thought the Jetta stopped because of no trand fluid in the transmission?
@@anthonyvaladez7426 you need to remove your transmision and replace your torque converter seal
@@carwerks101 how much would that cost estimated to do? Or should I just trade it in and get a new vw? My 2014 is only worth 6k with 157k miles on it.
@@anthonyvaladez7426 probably cost 1500 or so
Was there a long version? lol
Just watch my video of transmission removal depending on which one you have
@@carwerks101 Im actually watching "GTI rear main seal replacement, world record?!"
I have a 2011 a3 quattro but getting the trans out has to be fairly similar.
@@streezyrider121 ah nice setup, yeah subframe comes off for that one
@@carwerks101 ah damn. Thatvwas one of the positive takeaways from the vid so far haha. Thanks for the heads up sir.
@@streezyrider121 I believe those only cam dsg correct?
What rear main seal install tool did you used to use?
It slides over the end of the crank and is tapered so you can slide the seal on easy, they probably sell it on Amazon
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Hello thanks for all your content!!! I couldn’t find anyone else and your videos are awesome! Do you happen to know the torque specs for the rear main? I’m currently watching your video and taking off my dsg transmission to get it done.
Edgar Martinez my guess would be around 10nm it’s not much