Doing one of these right now, typical vw over think 90 % of the design than cheap out on one of the most important seals in the engine and the most expensive to replace. No wonder the Germans lost the war.
Just noticed oil leaking on my wife's car and progressively getting much worse, this video helped me quickly diagnose it as the rear seal. Can't say I feel much better about having to replace it but I'm glad I know what to expect if I decide to tackle this myself or take it to a shop. Thanks for all the great information!
Dude I have the same model and same situation. Was just told I have a rear main seal leak. I want to get it fixed but at the same time I want to throw my car in the trash. idk what to do...
@@m.r.i.a8813 just get it fixed man..its worth it. Im gonna replace my clutch and that rear main seal. Just do it once ok and never have to do it again
Wow, My CCTA rear main looked just like the one in your hands...two separate pieces. The interior seal bond was no longer glued/bonded to the metal mounting flange. I am so glad I watched this video!!! I have a 2009 Jetta with the CCTA engine and after viewing your videos, and those from DAP, I removed the engine to work on head (after a catastrophic timing chain tensioner failure caused all intake valves to bend and hang up open...unable to close. ) and to check the rear main seal. Great call, great advice. Very much appreciate by this viewer.
Deutche Auto Parts is where I got 2.0 TSI bent valve kit. Best price I could find. Quality products and also bought the special tools from them. Your video is how I found out about them.
Similar issues on my 2009 Audi TT. Seal changed 3 times, probably due to correct tool not being used the first 2 times, although I'm also now looking at changing the PCV thanks to your video!
Humble Mechanic- Just got a P12a2 code in my 2009 Tiguan w/ 106k. I've got an oil leak around my oil filter (replacing filter on Sunday) but am concerned it is my PCV. Noticed a small amount of oil down by the RMS but am not sure if it may be coming from the oil filter. You mentioned LOW pressure but P12a2 shows HIGH pressure. Considering ditching the car via trade in if it is RMS. Too many problems w/ this engine. Love the car, but it may be time to cut my losses.
I have a 2009 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition (2.0L and DSG from Audi). A month ago I had the cam cage resealed due to an oil leak and am still leaking. Was told it was the main seal leaking and quoted a price by the dealer. Talked to a very good shop in town and they told me that it is, as mentioned, due to the high pressure from the PCV. Although the car is older (as am I) it's in great shape and has 75,0000 miles on it. The shop told me not to waste my money having them repair it; that once the seals start going on these it just keeps happening to different seals. I was going to buy a couple of years old Golf if I replaced but now don't know what to believe or if I should just avoid the brand. I've owned 3 VW's and 2 Audi's and love the cars. I don't know if I should repair, replce with a Gold or buy a Mazda..... Advice? Thanks
You're the first you tuber to reply to one if my comments wow I'm impressed you do amazing work and you've help me keep my wife's tiguan on the road thank you so much. I'll check his channel and see if he's posted lately I've looked up older videos i guess I should turn on notifications for his channel.
I think this is my issue sadly. My formerly beloved 2011 Tiguan hit 100k and the heating system went 1200.00 . Water pump 980.00. Coils failed one after another and one coil fail left me going 65 mph to 30 on a major highway in major traffic, after tows and such set of coils and plugs 800.00 or so. Window switch drivers side close to 400.00. As preventive maintenance replaced timing belt 200.00. If this is around 1200.00 I’ll be closing in on 5k. In a year. Never again VW.
I just had my MK5 TSI taken in to have the RMS replaced. I was driving, off of a stop light. As I hit second hear I key of the throttle...as I did my car began to shake violently. I thought it was suspension related until I went to give it a little throttle to get of over. As soon as I did I noticed I had loss of power and the shaking got worse When I scanned it...I was getting system lean and random misfires on all cylinders. I didn't see any oil leaking. And did some testing for vaccum leaks. I did testing on the PCV by covering the hole. With no idle change. The next day I disconnected the crank vent valve and covers the intake hole. No idle change but after about 30 seconds I opened the oil cap, got a puff of air along with some smoke. (No a alot..but enough to be alarming) I turned the card off. Didn't hear anything clanking or nothing, but when I looked under the car I noticed oil leaking right at where the RMS failure would leak. A good amount of oil was on the ground. My question is, would a RMS seal cause all of this alone, or could there be something else involved other than the PCV valve. I really wanna do the PCV myself so I can save some money...but am worried that there could be something else causing issues.
knew i could figure out my new issue w your channel! storm rolled into town this morning and then it got very hot and humid this afternoon and now this seal is officially leaking. 🥴
I'm a independent VW tech and on my own 09 Tiguan 6 speed manual I notice that it was wet of oil on the trans bell housing it not big amount it's the first time I notice this type of leak on this engine family I though it was just a fluke that mine was leaking not a big deal for me it's 2WD and manual and this not by chance I look specifically for a manual one I will prob. Replace the release bearing/throwoutbearing and I notice too that my clutch shudders some times I might have oil on the friction disc it all makes sense thanks for posting this video I had no idea they were prone to leak I always wonder what is the point in changing a part design if what was used before work well like the oil seal on the 2.0 l 8v they are reliable and I have them in stock.
V10PDTDI It is most likely due to need. Not sure why they went from a standard design that never(or rarely failed) Cost and parts availability is my guess, but that is just a guess.
HumbleMechanic Judging by what you showed on the video, it looks like VW went from the earlier style of seal that was rubber (or rubber-like material) with a coil spring wrapped around the seal lip, to a one-piece teflon type of seal. The teflon seal looks cheaper to make, and is probably supposed to last the life of the car. Of course, they don't.
Started to see a small oil leak (about 5 drops/day) on driveway where the transmission and engine meet. It is not coming from the top so suspect RMS. Has about 100K, no fault codes, no noises, engine runs fine. No indication that the PCV is bad. But would it be worthwhile not to drive it, replace the PCV and hope that this that stops the leaking, or is it too late?
Great show.... Just to add up a little bit to this subject some times you can have oil leak from flex plate or crank shaft bolt as well. You need a special tool to install the Double lip new and improved oil seal .
It will be nice to add a video on how to diagnose the crankcase ventilation valve specifically your way that you mentioned and if vw uses a manometer to test pressures, as well using the fuel trims.
Apricate the informative video, was the car running rough at idle? I'm facing similar issue with my Tiguan where i went ahead and replaced, ignition coils, sparkplugs, manifold (upgraded), fuel injectors, pcv assembly and cleaned off the carbon in the intakes. seems like there is some oil leakage where the engine and transmission meet, got me thinking its the rear main seal and car runs rough at idle.. when scanned misfire on all cylinders, would greatly apricate your input, thanks!
i have this same issue with my 2013 GTI mk6 its just leaks a little bit of oil no check engine light been doing it for 2 years now i just keep up with the oil and add if needed. but lucky for me i am changing my clutch out to a DKM stage 2 clutch so all i got to do is buy the seal and have them replace it with the clutch transmission has to come out anyway.
This failed on my 2010 CC last year: $2200 at the dealer to replace it, but included the clutch (I had the squeaking TOB problem forever). But now I have a new problem: blown head gasket, apparently from a bad water pump: $1800 at local shop- I'm going to have them check the timing chain guides which seem to be a problem on this car as well. This TSI engine has not been good...
Great explanation, thanks for that. So if at least some of the trouble is caused by PVC issues, would a catch can that replaces part of this system reduce or increase the probability of this happening, in you opinion ?
replace PCV valve every two years just to be safe that this does not happen to you, a $100 part or less is cheaper than $1,000+ if the rear main seal goes out
I just found oil leaking from this part on my 2015 GTI. I'm at 17,000 miles and I am under warranty, but have you seen and of the 3rd Gen TSI engines (2015+) do this?
I have had a failed PVC and replaced it but didn't have an oil leak till until about a month later. Mechanic took a look and said it was the rear engine seal. He also asked me to get the torque converter seal as well which i am having problems finding. it's for an Audi a4 2007 B7 2.0tfsi S-Line model, front wheel drive.
Not sure why you would need a torque converter seal. I have replaced a bunch of those rear main seals and never had an issue. Is the A4 not a DSG Transmission?
I've owned my GTI mk6 long enough to experience most of the failed parts you've described... Love the car but is it worth replacing the seal? Is there a general estimate of time or cost this repair requires? sorry if this has been answered somewhere else.
Charles... I have have a newer 2013 Tiguan 2.0T. Have you seen any newer models with this issue? I know exactly what to look for as older Porsches 986's etc... had this issue and years later Porsche had a newer version of the seal for replacement.
Replaced leaky vacuum pump gasket hoping that was the problem. Still oil collecting/leaking from the rms area. Is there anything else that could be leaking to cause the oil to collect here? Thanks
nice vid as usual. checked DAP but sadly they don't have parts for my eurospec BKD engine. Had this issue on my BKD, well not exactly this issue, it was leaking a little(discovered it when they swapped the DMF) and the mechanic suggested changing it (i was opposed to it as i know the exchange procedure is a PITA as on the BKD the official way requires taking down the oil pan..., my father wanted to go ahead), well... this mechanic is not a VW specialized shop and it started an odyssey... the engine didn't start anymore after the swap. In the BKD the rear main seal also houses the CC position sensor, changing it requires that annoying special VW tool AND precise positioning on TDC and the replacement, these guys probably changed it as is and OFC the engine failed to start... and ofc they started blaming whatever else they could point a stick at, finally it seems they conferred with some guy that knew and made it work.. It's so hard to find good "3rd party" mechanics specially here with mostly old very "analog" cars
I have a 2017 Tiguan with a very minor leak in the same spot. I see it every time I do an oil change, evidence on the shield underneath and minor amount where that notch is between the transmission and engine.Not sure if I should have the dealership fix it now or wait. It only has 23k on it and still under warranty . Should I have them replace the pcv system as well? Oh and thank you for the videos you’re the best!!
Need help here: Got a 2010 CC sport. Misfires on all 4 cylinders. Engine too lean code. I replaced the PCV valve, intake valves are clean. But I still get the misfires and nothing seems to work? Is the rear main seal the issue?
Same issue on the mk5 TSI gti. While testing I began to leak oil at the RMS pretty quick, where as I wasn't initially. What ended up being the issue if you don't mind me asking ?
HumbleMechanic thanks for the videos! Very informative. I see you're saying the pcv is a main culprit in seal failure. I have a 2011 CC, 86K. I initially took it to one of the chain repair shops, and they concluded pcv was bad, but the entire assembly was a dealer only part. I took it to a VW dealer, and they are saying the pcv is ok (conveniently enough voiding the warranty repair) and the rear main seal would now cost me $1300. Any suggestions on how to proceed, when an independent well know shop is saying pvc is bad, but VW is saying its good, and since it is, they won't cover it? And shouldn't the pvc be replaced when seal is replaced to avoid recurring issue? Thanks for any info!
Thanks for the video! Besides the round rubber seal, the steel part of this seal also needs to be sealed to the block and oil pan using sealant. Which type of sealant would you recommend for this job? Regular RTV or perhaps Anaerobic?
Is it common for pcv system to cause rear seal to go out. We had a bunch of 2.4 eco tech blow out rear seals during last cold spell. Pcv system froze up and blew them out. My daughters Tiguan just started leaking. I’ve already done the head, chains, and front cover when the timing chain tensioner failed bending valves a year ago. Her car is killing me. Lol I work at a Chevy dealer.
Well, follow up to earlier post. 2009, Tiguan. Rear main seal is leaking 107,000 miles. Unbelievable. I have had the top five things that go wrong with this engine. Intake manifold, Pcv, water pump, carbon buildup and now rear main seal. Of course, the most expensive job is no longer under warranty. We had the extended warranty but expired. I don't know about VW, love the car for the ride and power but reliability needs to be improvred.
My 2010 Tiguan had exactly same what you've experienced except Pcv. And VW quoted $1100 labour for replacing rear main sea.l Better to sell and buy Toyota.
So I had a smoke test done and they say the rear main is leaking. And oil pan. If I go ahead and fix the rear main what else would you fix while I have the engine out ? Audi 09’ a4 2.0T tfsi pos ....
HumbleMechanic so they say oil pan is leaking vacuum pump is leaking oil and timing cover ...fixing the rear main only prob wouldn’t fix all other leaks ?
So if I have a system lean and a rear main seal leak would it even be worthwhile to change the intake manifold and pcv that I suspect to also have vacuum leaks ??
I think this is happening to my golf r MK6, getting a P0171 and P119a Need to do a smoke test because could also be the engine Valve Cover too smh 😩 **update** 5/30/2018 The issue was a leak with gasket between K04 and downpipe. New gasket resolved the issue YAY!
I’m in the same boat currently. Car was throwing oil everywhere. Valve cover was shot, and flooding the spark plugs with oil. Dealer is gonna do a dye test to check for other oil leaks, but it was causing misfire codes, and was also getting a p2293 because of it. Hoping the rear main seal isn’t also shot. I’m already out 1200 for this job. Really don’t wanna add another 1400 on top of that.
MK6 and MK7s.... These cars sh*t the bed big time once they get a lot of miles on them. PCV valve, intake manifold carbon buildup, rear main seal failure, mechatronic unit failure on the MK6 (the dreaded flashing PRNDS) clutch pack failure, fuel pump failure, turbo failure (the MK7) .....and other smaller issues.
Good evening. I just had a PCV leak and a rear main seal leak. I had the crankcase changed. Should I change the rear main seal as well or should the car be fine with just the crank case being changed?
Nice video, thanks! I'm getting this exact issue repaired this Friday. I had originally stated that I had smelled a gas or possibly exhaust / oil smell in the cabin after I take my 2015 GTI out for a drive and then get back in it (aka when returning to the car after doing some shopping). It never smells on first start up of the day. Anyhow, I think the dealership's approach is first, to do the main seal repair and then see if that resolves the smell, but I had also heard that the smell I'm describing might be an oil separator issue. Not sure, just wanted to get your thoughts.
Charles the show is great, been sharing it with customers and co-workers Keep up the good work. Curious does anyone make a better seal than the failed stock one? Why does it fail and how is the new stock seal better (or new aftermarket solution)? Thanks
Does the Bar's rear main seal work on this situation? My car was first diagnosed having P2187 code. Then, the repair shop showed me the leak between transmission and engine. I am going to try Bar's rear main seal first, but donno if it work.
I have golf 6 gti 2011. I can see oil leak between Dsg6 and my engine. It’s not a lot but I can see oil leak.. I have p0171 code too and I can smell gaz ou see the car. It’s rear main seal ? Regards.
had pcv valve done and pipes then found more oil leaking rear seal getting quote for work and clutch to be done as transmission out mk6 gti the fun of vw hopefully no issues after
Just inherited a mk4 2.0 jetta for $100. Lady said transmission was leaking. Looked in thinning maybe cheap plastic slave was leaking I replaced it. Nope still leaking and coming out the top inspection plug. I think it's the rear main, the transmission shifts fine.
this due to low quality seal used by VW, I had to change mine at 85000km .... check engine light came on, could smell burning oil.... not covered by warranty- VERY DISSAPOINTED with VW lately
did you install the upgraded one at least? so you dont have the same problem down the road www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-industries-parts/billet-aluminum-rear-main-seal-upgrade/462-103-171f~iab/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwJGi5bHX4AIVXrXACh1axAscEAQYAiABEgJoMfD_BwE
So if the rms is leaking the oil would drip down more towards the drivers side? How much oil would it be leaking? The check engine light would pick this up early on?
my 2010 cc has a rear main seal leak pretty badly. I d work on my own car but this may be out of my range. Bought some titan oil leak sealer and may try that. any other suggestions?
HI, I am installing a used engine in a 09 eos 2.0 ccta I have been watching your videos and find them very helpful. Thank You! in regards to a automatic dull mass flywheel what should be the amount of movement or end play be? while the engine is on the stand I have done the water pump, both timing chain tensioners, I'm going to do the rear main, is there anything else I should replace while the engine is out. Thank You!
Are you absolutely positively sure about that section being truly part of subframe for jacking? I tried using that point to to lift with a floor Jack and although I was able to lift the vehicle the dimpled section slightly caved in thus suggesting this location to not be truly part of the subframe and not truly an approved Jack point. 🤷🏽♂️
hey HumbleMechanic, do you think rear main seal leak could cause p0507 (idle higher then expectation) my 2009 gti tsi iis show p0507 higher idle when engine is cold,idle rev it self to 1800 after engine warm up, every time i come to a stop, it just rev up to 1800,then drop like choking, replaced new pcv valve and host.
I have the engine out and transmission off after a timing chain tension failure. There isn't any apparent crankshaft seal leaking, do you think I should replace anyway? ~87k miles
I wish you were close to me I would love you too work on my wife's 2004 vw beetle 2.0 turbo we have a oil leak I change the pan thinking that was the problem also changed the pan gasket but still leaks
Hi Charles, Love your work mate! Quick question for a noob. If my dealer has to drop the DSG transmission to to the Rear Main Seal, should they replace the fluid?? Cheers, Brydon.
Hey Charles, I finished replacing the rear main seal on my 2011 Q5 but when I took it for a test drive, the vehicle sound very badly and vibrates under 25mph. Could over torque the bolts that holds the transmission to engine causes the vibration? Would it be the center support for the drive shaft? Need your help. Thanks
I have 2009 volkswagen tiguan had oil pump , oil sending unit oil pick up changed found out I have a leaking rear seal will this cause low oil pressure light to come on
Do you know if this seal fails on the FSI BPY motor as well? I have an oil leak that I can't pinpoint and I'm trying to track down the reason behind my p0171 issue. I've replaced a few cracked vacuum lines, n80 purge valve, hpfp, and a fuel sensor that sits on the fuel rail. The motor struggles getting up to boost, feels like its "chugging" when trying to accelerate.
Check turbo intake pipe clamps that go to valve cover by passenger firewall. Also check inlet and outlet turbo tubes under car on passenger and driver side. I also hear that the rubber on thed inside of the tubes coming from the brake booster causing mystery vacuum leaks. These leakz on this car can be a headache.
@@eh9deux i forgot to mention that sometimes mystery oil leaks on this car could be in the area of the timing chain cover on the driver side (not to be mistaken for the timing belt on the passenger side). This timing cover has an oil pump attached to it which has a hose that draws vacuum to the brake booster. Sometimes the gasket on this oil pump (and or the timing cover) goes bad and causes a leak which many believe is the rear main seal because of the area. Many of the gaskets in general on this car go bad due to the failing pcv. You fix the pcv but still end of having lean associated codes and gasket failures because of the damage the pcv caused (I've even seen this pcv damage the inside of a valve cover). Also be sure to check the "check valves", especially the one under the intake next to the fuel lines (I once changed an entire intake manifold, gaskets, throttle body fuel lines, etc... the only thing I did not change or check was the check valve... lo and behold the leak/code was still present... took everthing apart again, tested the check valve and sure enough it was bad and the problem...).
I'm confident I'll have to do this asap on my wife's b6 passat tsi. I just replaced the pcv and the rear main is leaking and 1-4misfires. With the main vac line capped runs perfect. Ugh. Any diy tips. I'm very mechanically inclined. I've done many ford motor swaps in the past.
Ok. Did the job r and r the trans but my coolant line is leaking from the radiator to transmission. Of course I don't have any o rings so ill have to order them. Strangely the car won't run either. Would low pressure on the trans from the leak cause the car to shut off? Wanted to check with you before I tear it back apart. The motor seems to spin freely when I manually turn it.
Hi Charles, Im having a go at replacing the rear seal on a VW Tiguan CAWB engine code 2.0lt TSI. Just wondering if you can give me any information on Flexplate to crank bolt torque and if the bolts are a reuse bolt. Thanks
Those bolts should always be replaced. Also, if you are looking for a different solution for the rear main, check this out. deutscheautoparts.com/vw-audi-20t-tsi-upgraded-rear-main-seal-06h103171f.html
Hi Charles, can this happen on audi tfsi engines as well (CDA engine code). I have a 1.8tfsi that is using a lot of oil, but I can't see any visible oil leaks. I have read up quite a bit and it seems that the oil goes past the rings and this is a manufacturing defect, although here in South Africa they was no recall for high oil consumption like there was in other countries. I am also replacing the PCV tomorrow, could this also improve the really high oil consumption? Thanks
Humblemechanic, Thanks for the videos. Would valve cover gasket replacement on 2.0 tsi(2012 cc) be too difficult for novice repair? I had dealer quote me Over $700 for this which seems ridiculous for a gasket - there is oil leak evidence on the intake pipe.
If your in So. Cal, I have a great mechanic that just did mine on my 2009 EOS Lux 2.0tsi for $900.00. I even upgraded the seal itself with one from ECS Tuning. Cost was $109.00, but worth the investment when compared to the flimsy OEM part (In my opinion).
Can this cause oil pressure problems ? I have a low oil pressure problem . replaced the pomp ' sensor ' oil ' oil filter and still dident fix the problem . I hope to get a reply ! . Thx !!
My 2010 Passat 1.8TSI started leaking on the main crank seal. Was replaced by a reputable mechanic. Once replaced a leak immediately started on the oil seal on the Timing cover side. Replaced those and then crank seal began to leak again immediately. Car shows no error codes. what are the chances of the PVC valve being faulty? Or bad fitment of crank seal or faulty seal?
I'm sad to hear, transmission and clutch removal are no longer DIY for VW 4-cylinder, turbo? I thought a GTI might have been a better car to own than my 2006 MINI Cooper S, but from what I've found, the MINI is actually a fairly DIY car, once you get to know its quirks. (Such as "service position" of the front end).
Garth Goldberg This could be a DIY, but for many folks I don't think it is. Not compared to something like spark plugs or air filters. I personally think they are not too bad to work on, it IS about learning the quirks just like MINI :)
thanks!, i just change the PCV, the plastic was torn, but the high vaccum when i open the oils cap, is still there. this could be the problem? and what could happen if i not change it yet. thanks!!
Everything he said about above and below transmission leaking is what i have, and the oil burns and smokes under the hood and smells bad. I miiiight be changing the rear main seal and the pcv valve soon.
Mine just went out, and by no means I'm going to a mechanic to fix the issue. The parts are cheap labor isn't, with that said thank God I'm in the Army; free access to Chilton Automotive Maintenance Library, time, tools, a couple beers, and a job well done.
My mk6 GTI had this same seal changed by my mechanic but the car is still leaking from the bottom. I also replaced the PCV valve. Would you assume it was never properly done?
Hi, I'm just about to replace this, I have an exploded diagram that says 9Nm for the bolts but I can't find a tightening sequence, can you tell me the correct sequence? Thanks, Jane
I was quoted around $1200 for a Rear Main Seal from a local dealership, is the OEM seal they will more than likely use the best replacement or should I look into aftermarket? Is there a time frame on how often these are replaced typically? Thanks
Love your videos brother. I have a 2016 mk7 R 6MT and installed (professionally) mods you have recommended. APR stage 1 ecu tune low torque 034 Rear sway bar RSR hybrid clutch, after the ECU tune , clutch started slipping within a wk. Also, on the recommendation from HS Tuning I ordered a OEM RMS kit. Took it to Redline Speed Worx in NJ for the install as they were highly recommended for VW/Audi performance upgrades. Drove the car for about 400 miles since everything was done and noticed a oil leak which turned out to be the RMS kit. When the kit arrived the actual seal wasn't in the kit and the tech had to insert it himself. Now I have to spend a lot of money to take everything apart and install a new RMS kit. Spoke to HS Tuning and they said they'd replace the kit but I'm on my own for all the labor costs. Any suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Dude thanks for the video. I have something going on with this seals. I just order 2 seals one from Worldpac ( Victor reinz) and the second from the Vw dealership and for my surprise the seals are identical with the exception that both have different seals position. Victor have the lines around the inner ring outward toward the trany, meaning that you can easily just install without the plastic guide. The original Vw have the Center ring lines are facing inward meaning they the ring most be use to install. Dude this is confusing. Based on my knowledge the lip most be inward in order to prevent oil leak. What do you think ? Thanks in advance my brother and thanks for always posting you great videos
Doing one of these right now, typical vw over think 90 % of the design than cheap out on one of the most important seals in the engine and the most expensive to replace. No wonder the Germans lost the war.
Just noticed oil leaking on my wife's car and progressively getting much worse, this video helped me quickly diagnose it as the rear seal. Can't say I feel much better about having to replace it but I'm glad I know what to expect if I decide to tackle this myself or take it to a shop. Thanks for all the great information!
Moto Mott Depending on the age and miles, you may still be under powertrain warranty.
Have a MKV GTI, I have a complete love and utter hate relationship with the 2.0t
Relatable
Dude I have the same model and same situation. Was just told I have a rear main seal leak. I want to get it fixed but at the same time I want to throw my car in the trash. idk what to do...
@@m.r.i.a8813 just get it fixed man..its worth it. Im gonna replace my clutch and that rear main seal. Just do it once ok and never have to do it again
My current issue 😭
Mk6..same here
Wow, My CCTA rear main looked just like the one in your hands...two separate pieces. The interior seal bond was no longer glued/bonded to the metal mounting flange. I am so glad I watched this video!!! I have a 2009 Jetta with the CCTA engine and after viewing your videos, and those from DAP, I removed the engine to work on head (after a catastrophic timing chain tensioner failure caused all intake valves to bend and hang up open...unable to close. ) and to check the rear main seal. Great call, great advice. Very much appreciate by this viewer.
Deutche Auto Parts is where I got 2.0 TSI bent valve kit. Best price I could find. Quality products and also bought the special tools from them. Your video is how I found out about them.
Pump that crankcase full of smoke through the dipstick tube.... If smoke pours out of the bell housing, your rear main is leaking.
Similar issues on my 2009 Audi TT. Seal changed 3 times, probably due to correct tool not being used the first 2 times, although I'm also now looking at changing the PCV thanks to your video!
Humble Mechanic- Just got a P12a2 code in my 2009 Tiguan w/ 106k. I've got an oil leak around my oil filter (replacing filter on Sunday) but am concerned it is my PCV. Noticed a small amount of oil down by the RMS but am not sure if it may be coming from the oil filter. You mentioned LOW pressure but P12a2 shows HIGH pressure.
Considering ditching the car via trade in if it is RMS. Too many problems w/ this engine. Love the car, but it may be time to cut my losses.
I have a 2009 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition (2.0L and DSG from Audi). A month ago I had the cam cage resealed due to an oil leak and am still leaking. Was told it was the main seal leaking and quoted a price by the dealer. Talked to a very good shop in town and they told me that it is, as mentioned, due to the high pressure from the PCV. Although the car is older (as am I) it's in great shape and has 75,0000 miles on it. The shop told me not to waste my money having them repair it; that once the seals start going on these it just keeps happening to different seals. I was going to buy a couple of years old Golf if I replaced but now don't know what to believe or if I should just avoid the brand. I've owned 3 VW's and 2 Audi's and love the cars. I don't know if I should repair, replce with a Gold or buy a Mazda..... Advice? Thanks
Haven't run into these yet... thanks for the heads-up!
***** The can cause some weird stuff!
Thomas puts out some good content Charles
Is he still making videos? Haven’t seen in a while. But that may be a platform issue not a creator issue
You're the first you tuber to reply to one if my comments wow I'm impressed you do amazing work and you've help me keep my wife's tiguan on the road thank you so much. I'll check his channel and see if he's posted lately I've looked up older videos i guess I should turn on notifications for his channel.
Yup his still up just not posting a lot but he's helped me out also with my wife's tig and I can't thank yall enough.
I think this is my issue sadly. My formerly beloved 2011 Tiguan hit 100k and the heating system went 1200.00 . Water pump 980.00. Coils failed one after another and one coil fail left me going 65 mph to 30 on a major highway in major traffic, after tows and such set of coils and plugs 800.00 or so. Window switch drivers side close to 400.00. As preventive maintenance replaced timing belt 200.00. If this is around 1200.00 I’ll be closing in on 5k. In a year. Never again VW.
I just had my MK5 TSI taken in to have the RMS replaced.
I was driving, off of a stop light. As I hit second hear I key of the throttle...as I did my car began to shake violently. I thought it was suspension related until I went to give it a little throttle to get of over. As soon as I did I noticed I had loss of power and the shaking got worse
When I scanned it...I was getting system lean and random misfires on all cylinders.
I didn't see any oil leaking. And did some testing for vaccum leaks. I did testing on the PCV by covering the hole. With no idle change. The next day I disconnected the crank vent valve and covers the intake hole. No idle change but after about 30 seconds I opened the oil cap, got a puff of air along with some smoke. (No a alot..but enough to be alarming) I turned the card off. Didn't hear anything clanking or nothing, but when I looked under the car I noticed oil leaking right at where the RMS failure would leak. A good amount of oil was on the ground.
My question is, would a RMS seal cause all of this alone, or could there be something else involved other than the PCV valve.
I really wanna do the PCV myself so I can save some money...but am worried that there could be something else causing issues.
knew i could figure out my new issue w your channel! storm rolled into town this morning and then it got very hot and humid this afternoon and now this seal is officially leaking. 🥴
I'm a independent VW tech and on my own 09 Tiguan 6 speed manual I notice that it was wet of oil on the trans bell housing it not big amount it's the first time I notice this type of leak on this engine family I though it was just a fluke that mine was leaking not a big deal for me it's 2WD and manual and this not by chance I look specifically for a manual one I will prob. Replace the release bearing/throwoutbearing and I notice too that my clutch shudders some times I might have oil on the friction disc it all makes sense thanks for posting this video I had no idea they were prone to leak I always wonder what is the point in changing a part design if what was used before work well like the oil seal on the 2.0 l 8v they are reliable and I have them in stock.
V10PDTDI It is most likely due to need. Not sure why they went from a standard design that never(or rarely failed) Cost and parts availability is my guess, but that is just a guess.
HumbleMechanic
Judging by what you showed on the video, it looks like VW went from the earlier style of seal that was rubber (or rubber-like material) with a coil spring wrapped around the seal lip, to a one-piece teflon type of seal. The teflon seal looks cheaper to make, and is probably supposed to last the life of the car. Of course, they don't.
Started to see a small oil leak (about 5 drops/day) on driveway where the transmission and engine meet. It is not coming from the top so suspect RMS. Has about 100K, no fault codes, no noises, engine runs fine. No indication that the PCV is bad. But would it be worthwhile not to drive it, replace the PCV and hope that this that stops the leaking, or is it too late?
Great show.... Just to add up a little bit to this subject some times you can have oil leak from flex plate or crank shaft bolt as well. You need a special tool to install the Double lip new and improved oil seal .
Thanks!
Thank you
It will be nice to add a video on how to diagnose the crankcase ventilation valve specifically your way that you mentioned and if vw uses a manometer to test pressures, as well using the fuel trims.
I understand oil will still be leaking, but will the rear main seal itself cause an air leak after the PCV valve has been replaced?
Apricate the informative video, was the car running rough at idle? I'm facing similar issue with my Tiguan where i went ahead and replaced, ignition coils, sparkplugs, manifold (upgraded), fuel injectors, pcv assembly and cleaned off the carbon in the intakes. seems like there is some oil leakage where the engine and transmission meet, got me thinking its the rear main seal and car runs rough at idle.. when scanned misfire on all cylinders, would greatly apricate your input, thanks!
i have this same issue with my 2013 GTI mk6 its just leaks a little bit of oil no check engine light been doing it for 2 years now i just keep up with the oil and add if needed. but lucky for me i am changing my clutch out to a DKM stage 2 clutch so all i got to do is buy the seal and have them replace it with the clutch transmission has to come out anyway.
This failed on my 2010 CC last year: $2200 at the dealer to replace it, but included the clutch (I had the squeaking TOB problem forever). But now I have a new problem: blown head gasket, apparently from a bad water pump: $1800 at local shop- I'm going to have them check the timing chain guides which seem to be a problem on this car as well. This TSI engine has not been good...
Great explanation, thanks for that. So if at least some of the trouble is caused by PVC issues, would a catch can that replaces part of this system reduce or increase the probability of this happening, in you opinion ?
flog1122 I think most catch cans will not help that. Most are meant to keep oil out of the intake stream
I see, I was thinking of adding or reducing pressure as the plate, effectively, deletes the PCV. Okay, thanks.
replace PCV valve every two years just to be safe that this does not happen to you, a $100 part or less is cheaper than $1,000+ if the rear main seal goes out
I just found oil leaking from this part on my 2015 GTI. I'm at 17,000 miles and I am under warranty, but have you seen and of the 3rd Gen TSI engines (2015+) do this?
make sure they installed upgraded one , otherwise you'll have problems once the warranty is done
I have had a failed PVC and replaced it but didn't have an oil leak till until about a month later. Mechanic took a look and said it was the rear engine seal. He also asked me to get the torque converter seal as well which i am having problems finding. it's for an Audi a4 2007 B7 2.0tfsi S-Line model, front wheel drive.
Not sure why you would need a torque converter seal. I have replaced a bunch of those rear main seals and never had an issue.
Is the A4 not a DSG Transmission?
+HumbleMechanic he said the converter seal may be leaking as well. ill get the rear seal for sure.
don't know the transmission type.
What kind of sealant do you use on the rear main seal plate its self??
I've owned my GTI mk6 long enough to experience most of the failed parts you've described... Love the car but is it worth replacing the seal? Is there a general estimate of time or cost this repair requires? sorry if this has been answered somewhere else.
Charles... I have have a newer 2013 Tiguan 2.0T. Have you seen any newer models with this issue? I know exactly what to look for as older Porsches 986's etc... had this issue and years later Porsche had a newer version of the seal for replacement.
changed that today! Had a great day
Replaced leaky vacuum pump gasket hoping that was the problem. Still oil collecting/leaking from the rms area. Is there anything else that could be leaking to cause the oil to collect here? Thanks
nice vid as usual.
checked DAP but sadly they don't have parts for my eurospec BKD engine.
Had this issue on my BKD, well not exactly this issue, it was leaking a little(discovered it when they swapped the DMF) and the mechanic suggested changing it (i was opposed to it as i know the exchange procedure is a PITA as on the BKD the official way requires taking down the oil pan..., my father wanted to go ahead), well... this mechanic is not a VW specialized shop and it started an odyssey... the engine didn't start anymore after the swap.
In the BKD the rear main seal also houses the CC position sensor, changing it requires that annoying special VW tool AND precise positioning on TDC and the replacement, these guys probably changed it as is and OFC the engine failed to start... and ofc they started blaming whatever else they could point a stick at, finally it seems they conferred with some guy that knew and made it work.. It's so hard to find good "3rd party" mechanics specially here with mostly old very "analog" cars
I have a 2017 Tiguan with a very minor leak in the same spot. I see it every time I do an oil change, evidence on the shield underneath and minor amount where that notch is between the transmission and engine.Not sure if I should have the dealership fix it now or wait. It only has 23k on it and still under warranty . Should I have them replace the pcv system as well? Oh and thank you for the videos you’re the best!!
Need help here: Got a 2010 CC sport. Misfires on all 4 cylinders. Engine too lean code. I replaced the PCV valve, intake valves are clean. But I still get the misfires and nothing seems to work? Is the rear main seal the issue?
Same issue on the mk5 TSI gti. While testing I began to leak oil at the RMS pretty quick, where as I wasn't initially. What ended up being the issue if you don't mind me asking ?
HumbleMechanic thanks for the videos! Very informative. I see you're saying the pcv is a main culprit in seal failure. I have a 2011 CC, 86K. I initially took it to one of the chain repair shops, and they concluded pcv was bad, but the entire assembly was a dealer only part. I took it to a VW dealer, and they are saying the pcv is ok (conveniently enough voiding the warranty repair) and the rear main seal would now cost me $1300. Any suggestions on how to proceed, when an independent well know shop is saying pvc is bad, but VW is saying its good, and since it is, they won't cover it? And shouldn't the pvc be replaced when seal is replaced to avoid recurring issue? Thanks for any info!
Yes I would change them together. You’re correct. I know it’s been 5 years, but to help anyone reading this now. 👍
Thanks for the video! Besides the round rubber seal, the steel part of this seal also needs to be sealed to the block and oil pan using sealant. Which type of sealant would you recommend for this job? Regular RTV or perhaps Anaerobic?
I always use VW sealant. It is basically RTV.
Is it common for pcv system to cause rear seal to go out. We had a bunch of 2.4 eco tech blow out rear seals during last cold spell. Pcv system froze up and blew them out. My daughters Tiguan just started leaking. I’ve already done the head, chains, and front cover when the timing chain tensioner failed bending valves a year ago. Her car is killing me. Lol I work at a Chevy dealer.
I just bought 1 of these cars but the owner 4got to tell me that it had a rear main seal leak im disgusted!!! Here looking for advice ty for the video
Well, follow up to earlier post. 2009, Tiguan. Rear main seal is leaking 107,000 miles. Unbelievable. I have had the top five things that go wrong with this engine. Intake manifold, Pcv, water pump, carbon buildup and now rear main seal. Of course, the most expensive job is no longer under warranty. We had the extended warranty but expired. I don't know about VW, love the car for the ride and power but reliability needs to be improvred.
Damn!! I hate to hear that. Call VW customer care and see if they can help out. They may say no at your mileage, but it's worth a call.
My 2010 Tiguan had exactly same what you've experienced except Pcv. And VW quoted $1100 labour for replacing rear main sea.l Better to sell and buy Toyota.
So I had a smoke test done and they say the rear main is leaking. And oil pan. If I go ahead and fix the rear main what else would you fix while I have the engine out ? Audi 09’ a4 2.0T tfsi pos ....
That’s a transmission out job. Clutch overlap is 100%.
HumbleMechanic so they say oil pan is leaking vacuum pump is leaking oil and timing cover ...fixing the rear main only prob wouldn’t fix all other leaks ?
Having one replaced now on Tiguan. Seems very common. Why isn’t there a class action lawsuit?
So if I have a system lean and a rear main seal leak would it even be worthwhile to change the intake manifold and pcv that I suspect to also have vacuum leaks ??
I think this is happening to my golf r MK6, getting a P0171 and P119a
Need to do a smoke test because could also be the engine Valve Cover too smh 😩
**update** 5/30/2018
The issue was a leak with gasket between K04 and downpipe. New gasket resolved the issue YAY!
I’m in the same boat currently. Car was throwing oil everywhere. Valve cover was shot, and flooding the spark plugs with oil. Dealer is gonna do a dye test to check for other oil leaks, but it was causing misfire codes, and was also getting a p2293 because of it. Hoping the rear main seal isn’t also shot. I’m already out 1200 for this job. Really don’t wanna add another 1400 on top of that.
MK6 and MK7s.... These cars sh*t the bed big time once they get a lot of miles on them. PCV valve, intake manifold carbon buildup, rear main seal failure, mechatronic unit failure on the MK6 (the dreaded flashing PRNDS) clutch pack failure, fuel pump failure, turbo failure (the MK7) .....and other smaller issues.
About to dig into this job on my CBFA-engined 2013 GTI this weekend.
I’m curious whether I will lose a bunch of oil when replacing it. Anyone know?
Good evening. I just had a PCV leak and a rear main seal leak. I had the crankcase changed. Should I change the rear main seal as well or should the car be fine with just the crank case being changed?
Is this still a problem on the post facelift 2018+ gti’S
Thank you for the great video, does that flange needs to aligned with special tools and which bolt needs to be replaced, or can i use lock tread?
Nice video, thanks! I'm getting this exact issue repaired this Friday. I had originally stated that I had smelled a gas or possibly exhaust / oil smell in the cabin after I take my 2015 GTI out for a drive and then get back in it (aka when returning to the car after doing some shopping). It never smells on first start up of the day. Anyhow, I think the dealership's approach is first, to do the main seal repair and then see if that resolves the smell, but I had also heard that the smell I'm describing might be an oil separator issue. Not sure, just wanted to get your thoughts.
Charles the show is great, been sharing it with customers and co-workers Keep up the good work. Curious does anyone make a better seal than the failed stock one? Why does it fail and how is the new stock seal better (or new aftermarket solution)? Thanks
iABED is an aftermarket one, just be careful when installing it
What do you think the failure rate is? Should I upgrade this when upgrading the clutch?
Does the Bar's rear main seal work on this situation? My car was first diagnosed having P2187 code. Then, the repair shop showed me the leak between transmission and engine. I am going to try Bar's rear main seal first, but donno if it work.
Did it work?
How much would it cost to replace the seal on a 2017 vw gti?
When changing the rear oil main seal do you put your car on TDC or you just put anyhow
No need for TDC
I just curious how much do they typically charge for Rear Main Seal replacement?
I have golf 6 gti 2011. I can see oil leak between Dsg6 and my engine. It’s not a lot but I can see oil leak.. I have p0171 code too and I can smell gaz ou see the car. It’s rear main seal ? Regards.
Great VId and info! BUT please tell us what the other part of the PCV is? (the one you mention is lower on the engine) Thanks
That’s the primary oil separator it separates the large oil particles
had pcv valve done and pipes then found more oil leaking rear seal getting quote for work and clutch to be done as transmission out mk6 gti the fun of vw hopefully no issues after
Hey there, considering doing the exact thing. Did it stop the leak? Thanks.
@@vilsonj.castaneda31 yes was a job and half but im gettimg there i also switched oil to bmw high grade alot thicker but runs so much better
would it fail the smog check if the rear seal needs replacement?
Just inherited a mk4 2.0 jetta for $100. Lady said transmission was leaking. Looked in thinning maybe cheap plastic slave was leaking I replaced it. Nope still leaking and coming out the top inspection plug. I think it's the rear main, the transmission shifts fine.
this due to low quality seal used by VW, I had to change mine at 85000km .... check engine light came on, could smell burning oil.... not covered by warranty- VERY DISSAPOINTED with VW lately
That may be part of the failure.
did you install the upgraded one at least? so you dont have the same problem down the road www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-industries-parts/billet-aluminum-rear-main-seal-upgrade/462-103-171f~iab/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwJGi5bHX4AIVXrXACh1axAscEAQYAiABEgJoMfD_BwE
Naim Osman does this seal require the special install tool kit that oem revised seal does?
So if the rms is leaking the oil would drip down more towards the drivers side?
How much oil would it be leaking? The check engine light would pick this up early on?
Both depend on how the deal has failed. I’ve seen it a solid drip, and just residue. Both with and with out a MIL
my 2010 cc has a rear main seal leak pretty badly. I d work on my own car but this may be out of my range. Bought some titan oil leak sealer and may try that. any other suggestions?
HI, I am installing a used engine in a 09 eos 2.0 ccta I have been watching your videos and find them very helpful. Thank You! in regards to a automatic dull mass flywheel what should be the amount of movement or end play be? while the engine is on the stand I have done the water pump, both timing chain tensioners,
I'm going to do the rear main, is there anything else I should replace while the engine is out. Thank You!
Be sure to put a timing chain on it.
paul wilson pegue
2081'2
Are you absolutely positively sure about that section being truly part of subframe for jacking? I tried using that point to to lift with a floor Jack and although I was able to lift the vehicle the dimpled section slightly caved in thus suggesting this location to not be truly part of the subframe and not truly an approved Jack point. 🤷🏽♂️
So, is the seal that you replace it with the same part? Or did Volkswagen redesign the part? Won't it start leaking soon after replacement?
What's the link to the rear main seal for the 2012 MK6 GTI CBFA?
Do they usually lower the front subframe to get a DSG transmission out to replace the rear main seal?
Does a failed rms necessarily throw a code, or could it have an air leak without a code?
hey
HumbleMechanic, do you think rear main seal leak could cause p0507 (idle higher then expectation)
my 2009 gti tsi iis show p0507 higher idle when engine is cold,idle rev it self to 1800 after engine warm up, every time i come to a stop, it just rev up to 1800,then drop like choking, replaced new pcv valve and host.
I have the engine out and transmission off after a timing chain tension failure. There isn't any apparent crankshaft seal leaking, do you think I should replace anyway? ~87k miles
the seal is part of the cover. I always like a new cover. That will come with the seal
Could this cause a rough idle/ warm start issue?
I wish you were close to me I would love you too work on my wife's 2004 vw beetle 2.0 turbo we have a oil leak I change the pan thinking that was the problem also changed the pan gasket but still leaks
Hi Charles, Love your work mate! Quick question for a noob. If my dealer has to drop the DSG transmission to to the Rear Main Seal, should they replace the fluid?? Cheers, Brydon.
+Brydon Prout no. You won't lose any fluid from the trans
Hey Charles, I finished replacing the rear main seal on my 2011 Q5 but when I took it for a test drive, the vehicle sound very badly and vibrates under 25mph. Could over torque the bolts that holds the transmission to engine causes the vibration? Would it be the center support for the drive shaft? Need your help. Thanks
I have 2009 volkswagen tiguan had oil pump , oil sending unit oil pick up changed found out I have a leaking rear seal will this cause low oil pressure light to come on
Do you know if this seal fails on the FSI BPY motor as well? I have an oil leak that I can't pinpoint and I'm trying to track down the reason behind my p0171 issue. I've replaced a few cracked vacuum lines, n80 purge valve, hpfp, and a fuel sensor that sits on the fuel rail. The motor struggles getting up to boost, feels like its "chugging" when trying to accelerate.
Check turbo intake pipe clamps that go to valve cover by passenger firewall. Also check inlet and outlet turbo tubes under car on passenger and driver side. I also hear that the rubber on thed inside of the tubes coming from the brake booster causing mystery vacuum leaks. These leakz on this car can be a headache.
@@geeess958 thanks sir. I'll check them out. Appreciate it!
@@eh9deux i forgot to mention that sometimes mystery oil leaks on this car could be in the area of the timing chain cover on the driver side (not to be mistaken for the timing belt on the passenger side). This timing cover has an oil pump attached to it which has a hose that draws vacuum to the brake booster. Sometimes the gasket on this oil pump (and or the timing cover) goes bad and causes a leak which many believe is the rear main seal because of the area. Many of the gaskets in general on this car go bad due to the failing pcv. You fix the pcv but still end of having lean associated codes and gasket failures because of the damage the pcv caused (I've even seen this pcv damage the inside of a valve cover). Also be sure to check the "check valves", especially the one under the intake next to the fuel lines (I once changed an entire intake manifold, gaskets, throttle body fuel lines, etc... the only thing I did not change or check was the check valve... lo and behold the leak/code was still present... took everthing apart again, tested the check valve and sure enough it was bad and the problem...).
Would this also cause a oil pressure light engine off warning I know for a fact mine is leaking making sure this could be gremlin causing it ??
Hey man, i'm having the same problem. Did you find the solution for that oil pressure light to go away?
What do yo mean by "idle out"? 4:55
I'm confident I'll have to do this asap on my wife's b6 passat tsi. I just replaced the pcv and the rear main is leaking and 1-4misfires. With the main vac line capped runs perfect. Ugh. Any diy tips. I'm very mechanically inclined. I've done many ford motor swaps in the past.
pull the subframe. it's not that many bolts and the trans comes right out.
Do you have to use the special sealant like on the valve cover? Can I reuse the seal bolts and flex plate bolts? Thank you!
The sealant is the same as oil pans. And I am pretty sure the bolts are to be replaced.
Ok. Did the job r and r the trans but my coolant line is leaking from the radiator to transmission. Of course I don't have any o rings so ill have to order them. Strangely the car won't run either. Would low pressure on the trans from the leak cause the car to shut off? Wanted to check with you before I tear it back apart. The motor seems to spin freely when I manually turn it.
3 dollar o rings arrive tomorrow.
Hi Charles, Im having a go at replacing the rear seal on a VW Tiguan CAWB engine code 2.0lt TSI. Just wondering if you can give me any information on Flexplate to crank bolt torque and if the bolts are a reuse bolt. Thanks
Those bolts should always be replaced. Also, if you are looking for a different solution for the rear main, check this out. deutscheautoparts.com/vw-audi-20t-tsi-upgraded-rear-main-seal-06h103171f.html
Hi Charles, can this happen on audi tfsi engines as well (CDA engine code). I have a 1.8tfsi that is using a lot of oil, but I can't see any visible oil leaks. I have read up quite a bit and it seems that the oil goes past the rings and this is a manufacturing defect, although here in South Africa they was no recall for high oil consumption like there was in other countries. I am also replacing the PCV tomorrow, could this also improve the really high oil consumption? Thanks
Humblemechanic,
Thanks for the videos. Would valve cover gasket replacement on 2.0 tsi(2012 cc) be too difficult for novice repair? I had dealer quote me
Over $700 for this which seems ridiculous for a gasket - there is oil leak evidence on the intake pipe.
hey I was wondering what is a far price for the dealer to replace the rear main oil seal
Did you get an answer?
It’s probably in the $1,000 or so range
*screams in horror*
If your in So. Cal, I have a great mechanic that just did mine on my 2009 EOS Lux 2.0tsi for $900.00. I even upgraded the seal itself with one from ECS Tuning. Cost was $109.00, but worth the investment when compared to the flimsy OEM part (In my opinion).
Who was that? I'm in N. OC.
Can this cause oil pressure problems ? I have a low oil pressure problem . replaced the pomp ' sensor ' oil ' oil filter and still dident fix the problem . I hope to get a reply ! . Thx !!
My 2010 Passat 1.8TSI started leaking on the main crank seal. Was replaced by a reputable mechanic. Once replaced a leak immediately started on the oil seal on the Timing cover side. Replaced those and then crank seal began to leak again immediately. Car shows no error codes. what are the chances of the PVC valve being faulty? Or bad fitment of crank seal or faulty seal?
Thanks humblemechanic, that's good to know!
jonathanclarkewater you're welcome :)
I'm sad to hear, transmission and clutch removal are no longer DIY for VW 4-cylinder, turbo?
I thought a GTI might have been a better car to own than my 2006 MINI Cooper S, but from what I've found, the MINI is actually a fairly DIY car, once you get to know its quirks. (Such as "service position" of the front end).
Garth Goldberg This could be a DIY, but for many folks I don't think it is. Not compared to something like spark plugs or air filters. I personally think they are not too bad to work on, it IS about learning the quirks just like MINI :)
Great Knowledge , subscribed
thanks!, i just change the PCV, the plastic was torn, but the high vaccum when i open the oils cap, is still there. this could be the problem? and what could happen if i not change it yet. thanks!!
Be sure no oil leaks.
My transmission was replaced about 10 K ago do you think this should be under warranty?
Will the leak will be on the Passenger side? Thank you for your consideration.
Everything he said about above and below transmission leaking is what i have, and the oil burns and smokes under the hood and smells bad. I miiiight be changing the rear main seal and the pcv valve soon.
Mine just went out, and by no means I'm going to a mechanic to fix the issue. The parts are cheap labor isn't, with that said thank God I'm in the Army; free access to Chilton Automotive Maintenance Library, time, tools, a couple beers, and a job well done.
hey man, i have a 1989 VW GTI . To replace the rear main seal on the 89 can I pull transmission to get to the seal? thanks
My mk6 GTI had this same seal changed by my mechanic but the car is still leaking from the bottom. I also replaced the PCV valve. Would you assume it was never properly done?
Possible. Those seals are tough to install right without the proper tools
Hi, I'm just about to replace this, I have an exploded diagram that says 9Nm for the bolts but I can't find a tightening sequence, can you tell me the correct sequence? Thanks, Jane
Would this be a smart fix while upgrading a clutch?
Yes definitely
I was quoted around $1200 for a Rear Main Seal from a local dealership, is the OEM seal they will more than likely use the best replacement or should I look into aftermarket? Is there a time frame on how often these are replaced typically? Thanks
When properly installed both are good options. The dealer will most likely use the OEM part
Love your videos brother. I have a 2016 mk7 R 6MT and installed (professionally) mods you have recommended.
APR stage 1 ecu tune low torque
034 Rear sway bar
RSR hybrid clutch, after the ECU tune , clutch started slipping within a wk. Also, on the recommendation from HS Tuning I ordered a OEM RMS kit.
Took it to Redline Speed Worx in NJ for the install as they were highly recommended for VW/Audi performance upgrades.
Drove the car for about 400 miles since everything was done and noticed a oil leak which turned out to be the RMS kit. When the kit arrived the actual seal wasn't in the kit and the tech had to insert it himself. Now I have to spend a lot of money to take everything apart and install a new RMS kit. Spoke to HS Tuning and they said they'd replace the kit but I'm on my own for all the labor costs. Any suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated.
How much did they charge u for the labor ?
Dude thanks for the video. I have something going on with this seals. I just order 2 seals one from Worldpac ( Victor reinz) and the second from the Vw dealership and for my surprise the seals are identical with the exception that both have different seals position. Victor have the lines around the inner ring outward toward the trany, meaning that you can easily just install without the plastic guide. The original Vw have the Center ring lines are facing inward meaning they the ring most be use to install. Dude this is confusing. Based on my knowledge the lip most be inward in order to prevent oil leak. What do you think ? Thanks in advance my brother and thanks for always posting you great videos