Thank you for posting this video; it helped me out tremendously as I have not removed transmission lines before. With the help of PB Blaster, i had no issues with any of the bracket bolts, which is unheard of in my experience working on vehicles. Also, I used a set of ramps which gave me excellent access to not only the transmission line hoses, but that last bolt. Once again I appreciate the video!
Great tutorial video, and help a lot for getting mine done. A little trick I used is to remove the driver side wheel for much better access and removing the the pipes downward.
best video for this job going. I tried so many videos yours was everything I needed very specific and to the point no overcomplications. 10/10 thanks very much you saved a broke bro potentially a few hundred dollars
Thanks for the informative video and was very helpful for this Subaru Impreza owner. In regards to using the extensions, get yourself a short piece of small piping that fits over the racket wrench handle. Thanks again now to get to work and fix my leaking lines.
I let a transmission shop(Dr Nicks), rebuild and install my 4EAT transmission on my 2005 Saabaru and these idiots broke this particular hard atf cooling line. They replaced the hard line but didn't install it properly, so the hard line was vibrating while running which eventually wore a hole through the aluminum line. I spent $3500.00 with this transmission shop, plus they didn't seal up my brandn new Subaru transmission pan properly. They also broke one of my expensive LED foglights.
2010 Forester 150k Mine began leaking at the bracket right under the battery box. I ran new transmission cooler hose for the entire length. I didn't have time to wait for the new lines.
@@kezdodik1 Only drawback is that you have to make sure to tie it out of the way of any moving parts and sharp edges. Especially the steering shaft. Leave the original steel lines in place to tie the rubber hoses to. Use high quality zip ties that won't fail in heat or if they get oil on them. 3M is a good brand. Nylon. Not plastic. Don't tighten them so much that they collapse the hoses. I used 3/8" transmission cooler hose. 15' will do it with some left over. It's tight going on the nipples. You can heat the end of the hose with a hairdryer to help. I recommend using fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and the rolled edges don't cut into the hose. Cost about $40 all together. Hose is $2 a foot. Quart of ATF is $7. Zip ties were $3. I already had the clamps. It's a messy job. Have fun!
@@kezdodik1 I also used flexible transmission oil hose on my '03 Forester to bypass the metal transmission coolant lines when one of them developed a leak. The flexible lines work great and have been leak-free since I installed them four years ago. It was easy to install and secure the flexible lines. I ran them right next to the unused metal transmission oil coolant lines.
@CarsNToys I bought the line from Amazon, doing this on my wife's 09 Subaru impreza this weekend. I put a used motor in it not too long ago and she's running great again but now this transmission leak is costing me 30 bucks a week in fluid Lol my mechanic tried to replace the hose but then he said the pipe was crumbling and he couldn't get a hose clamp on tight enough. My question is, did a lot of fluid drain out when you disconnected the cooler line? I'll be doing this one myself. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Will see if that’s the problem on my 08 TL. Tranny fluid is leaking from the transmission area and not quite sure what it can be. Hopefully just a hose setup like this one.
@@Americansikkunt Yes. It was the hose clamp and rubber hose end. The hose end was cracked and the clamp had loosened up a bit. Trimmed end and tightened up the clamp and all is well.
Excellent video. I would recommend spraying bolts with PB blaster the day before removing bolts because they have a tendency of snapping off then your stuck using zip ties to keep line in place. I enjoyed the video. Good call marking the hose its easy to mix up.😀👍
I have a leak on the exact same line on my 2005 legacy Outback wagon. Do I need to replace the whole stainless steel line? Or can I just replace the one hose that's leaking?
this is what im wondering ? the hoses up front do seem to have a slight leak so im thinking of replacing, but the metal pipes dont seem to have any leaks ???
The new metal lines are sold as a two-line kit. The OEM metal lines are welded together and can't easily be separated. It would be *more* difficult to replace just one metal line. When my metal transmission oil cooler lines developed a leak, I replaced the metal lines entirely with flexible rubber transmission oil hose. The flexible hose runs directly from the transmission oil cooler in the bottom of the radiator all the way back to the metal nipples on the transmission. It's worked great since I installed it four years ago. It's easy to install the flexible hose. My metal lines failed due to corrosion right on the nipple of the metal line at the radiator end. It was a pinhole leak that sprayed high-pressure transmission fluid all around that area of my engine bay; it was a mess.
@@davidkott6959 id prefer to buy them stainless steel versions rather then the OEM made of plain metal.. they are cheaper and easier to get in australia also which is a bonus for me, OEM subaru parts are a pain in the ass to get here and dare generally overpriced
Mono gram adikt I agree; stainless is the way to go if you're replacing these lines the hard way. The OEM low chrome steel will rust out, leak and strand you with an empty transmission. This is the first time I'm advocating a Dorman part!
Hello thanks for the great video. I followed your instructions but I unfortunately forgot to mark my lines and where they go can you tell me on a 2001 Subaru Forester L where the inlet and Outlet are located on the transmission? They're already connected to the transmission but I had to disconnect them in the center and they're both equal length so I don't know which is which
I don't think anything will change. The oil transmission cooler inside the radiator is just a coil of metal tube bathed in the engine coolant. The transmission oil will flow in either direction through that coil; it's just a tube. It doesn't matter which way you flow transmission oil through the radiator's transmission oil cooler.
Thank you for your very informative demo of how to replace ATF cooling lines on a 2010 Impreza. I have a 2010 Impreza with the same exact leak in the same exact location. I was surprised that not much AT fluid gushed out when you disconnected the hoses. Did you drain the ATF from the transmission off camera before disconnecting anything?
im curious about burping trans oil lines ? will bubbles of air just push their way through the system or is there a correct way to make sure its just a steady stream of coolant and no trapped air pockets that will lead to over heating and warning lights coming up on the dash ?
I really hope I get a reply here. I'm doing this part, I've got my ends disconnected.. how the hell did you get this thing out?! Did you pull it from under the car??
@CarsNToys I bought the line from Amazon, doing this on my wife's 09 Subaru impreza this weekend. I put a used motor in it not too long ago and she's running great again but now this transmission leak is costing me 30 bucks a week in fluid Lol my mechanic tried to replace the hose but then he said the pipe was crumbling and he couldn't get a hose clamp on tight enough. My question is, did a lot of fluid drain out when you disconnected the cooler line? I'll be doing this one myself. Thanks!
Not too much drained out. However, I tend to be mindful when disconnecting / removing rubber hoses. In other words, I'll make sure the end of the hose is facing up and I'll insert a stopper, or paper towels, to prevent any further mess.
I have the same question as someone else - which line is the outflow from the cooler? I want to flush the system. (Really, someone should do a video on that, as it is more common when buying a used car and the trans fluid looks like its all been in there a good while. The conventional drain @ the trans pan and then fill only replaces 1/2 the fluid at most.)
would this be the cause of the at oil temp light flashing along with the traction control and abs light coming on ? *ive been systematically going through everything to try and figure it out ? all my fluids are good ect ?
@@beitel21 i ended up putting new radiator in and doing a coolant flush and replacement and everything seems to be running smoothly now *did oil change and also replaced a few lost litres of trans fluid that happened when taking out the old radiator,, i definitely think you have to be as accurate as possible when refilling engine and trans oil as even slightly too much can seem to create issues, slightly less seems to work better and adding a few hundred ml at a time and checking dipsticks until the levels look reasonable etc while the engine is cool of course
Anyone have an issue with the hose blowing off of the radiator on the passenger side? At first I thought maybe the clamp wasn’t tight. But then it did it again and I had made sure it was tightened
I love it, just pull it out, snake it out. The hardest part of the job is trying to get that thing out. And it completely got skipped Same thing when it went back in. several minutes talking about hoses then the camera angle switches and it's back in
That is wonderful swetty i love u to.the way i am is if u like me i like u if u dont like me i dont like u. And that the way i think mabe send me a picture of u and ill send u one of me?
Where did you source the stainless lines for your Subaru? I recently replaced the same lines on my '04 LL Bean Outback and ended up just buying a new set of the Subaru OEM steel lines.
@@CarsNToys I wouldn't flush it. (You probably know this) older fluid that has gone past its prime has grit in it that is actually giving needed friction on the plates. Yes, the plates are worn out because of the girt but it's actually giving the trans it's last life. Once you "flush" the ATF, all of that suspended grit is 1) no longer providing friction on the plates that it needed and 2) the debris that was "safely" suspended somewhere is now floating around and will eventually lodge in some small port causing likely failure. I would just get what you can from the pan and refill. At least that Impreza has a plug so it's easy. Dropping the pan is an option. I would never flush it unless the fluid is fairly clean (yours might have been fine I couldn't see it on a white paper towel.) Some people would say that "flushing it" gets all of the debris out but that is incorrect. Keep the fluid at least a slight shade of pink and flush away, once it's too dark to see through - change only the few quarts from the pan's drain plug. You have to use judgement (actually more like guess) as to how long your "fluid changes" should be. I would try to do them every 15k once you discover dark fluid. If the transmission is still working after say 30k, I'd bump the fluid change to 10k and lower.
Just a heads up prepare for hell when trying to remove the hoses they dont just pop off in the real world. I ended up chunking mine and cutting it off and I'm the one who put them hoses on there. 11 minute video I'm on hour #2 now.
dealer wanted me to pay $450 for this simple 1 hour job.. what a rip off.. Stay away from dealers for this type of jobs. Also recommend to get new set of the rubber hoses and clamps. Pinching existing hoses back in different spot might cause leak.. I had that so I went and replaced all 4 hoses and clamps.
Whitby Subaru recently quoted me $550 and 2 hours. Initially they said it was leaking and I mentioned never seeing oil on the garage floor. Story changed to it's badly rusted and could start leaking. After watching this video, I'll wait a month for the warm weather and do it myself.
I absolutely love it when RUclipsrs make hyper specific videos like this. This is exactly what I was looking for to help me with my '12 Foz. Thanks!
Best video I've seen on car repairs. You break everything down that even a knuckle head like me can understand. Keep making more videos
Thank you for posting this video; it helped me out tremendously as I have not removed transmission lines before. With the help of PB Blaster, i had no issues with any of the bracket bolts, which is unheard of in my experience working on vehicles. Also, I used a set of ramps which gave me excellent access to not only the transmission line hoses, but that last bolt. Once again I appreciate the video!
Great tutorial video, and help a lot for getting mine done. A little trick I used is to remove the driver side wheel for much better access and removing the the pipes downward.
best video for this job going. I tried so many videos yours was everything I needed very specific and to the point no overcomplications. 10/10 thanks very much you saved a broke bro potentially a few hundred dollars
Thanks for the informative video and was very helpful for this Subaru Impreza owner. In regards to using the extensions, get yourself a short piece of small piping that fits over the racket wrench handle. Thanks again now to get to work and fix my leaking lines.
I let a transmission shop(Dr Nicks), rebuild and install my 4EAT transmission on my 2005 Saabaru and these idiots broke this particular hard atf cooling line. They replaced the hard line but didn't install it properly, so the hard line was vibrating while running which eventually wore a hole through the aluminum line. I spent $3500.00 with this transmission shop, plus they didn't seal up my brandn new Subaru transmission pan properly. They also broke one of my expensive LED foglights.
2010 Forester 150k
Mine began leaking at the bracket right under the battery box. I ran new transmission cooler hose for the entire length. I didn't have time to wait for the new lines.
ha that's an awesome idea, I should just do that for mine. Is there any drawback?
@@kezdodik1
Only drawback is that you have to make sure to tie it out of the way of any moving parts and sharp edges. Especially the steering shaft. Leave the original steel lines in place to tie the rubber hoses to. Use high quality zip ties that won't fail in heat or if they get oil on them. 3M is a good brand. Nylon. Not plastic. Don't tighten them so much that they collapse the hoses. I used 3/8" transmission cooler hose. 15' will do it with some left over. It's tight going on the nipples. You can heat the end of the hose with a hairdryer to help. I recommend using fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and the rolled edges don't cut into the hose. Cost about $40 all together. Hose is $2 a foot. Quart of ATF is $7. Zip ties were $3. I already had the clamps. It's a messy job. Have fun!
@@kezdodik1 I also used flexible transmission oil hose on my '03 Forester to bypass the metal transmission coolant lines when one of them developed a leak. The flexible lines work great and have been leak-free since I installed them four years ago. It was easy to install and secure the flexible lines. I ran them right next to the unused metal transmission oil coolant lines.
@@davidkott6959 Yeah , I actually just did that in December 2019, and it's been going strong since! it was an 06 forrester.
"Hyper specific"! Great tips, the breaker bar using a socket and extension, brilliant! Thanks for a good video!
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Incredible, I just had this fixed on my 2010 Impreza a month ago! Also about a year after my timing belt change. About 136000 miles in
I'm still surprised it failed after 9 years. Funny enough the rubber lines were in excellent shape.
@@CarsNToys same with mine. If our cars continue to be so similar, we'll get to enjoy an exhaust system replacement video within a year or so :)
@CarsNToys I bought the line from Amazon, doing this on my wife's 09 Subaru impreza this weekend. I put a used motor in it not too long ago and she's running great again but now this transmission leak is costing me 30 bucks a week in fluid Lol my mechanic tried to replace the hose but then he said the pipe was crumbling and he couldn't get a hose clamp on tight enough. My question is, did a lot of fluid drain out when you disconnected the cooler line? I'll be doing this one myself. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Will see if that’s the problem on my 08 TL. Tranny fluid is leaking from the transmission area and not quite sure what it can be. Hopefully just a hose setup like this one.
Did you ever find the leak?
My Subaru is leaking ATF, and I can’t find where.
@@Americansikkunt Yes. It was the hose clamp and rubber hose end. The hose end was cracked and the clamp had loosened up a bit. Trimmed end and tightened up the clamp and all is well.
@@thegreatgiginthesky387 thank you for the reply!
And thanks for the tip, it may save me a headache and $$$
This was exactly what I was looking for to do mine. Same year/model. Thank you!
Did you have to drain the ATF or did you wait till the car is cooled down to do the replacement
Excellent video. I would recommend spraying bolts with PB blaster the day before
removing bolts because they have a tendency of snapping off then your stuck using zip ties to keep line in place. I enjoyed the video. Good call marking the hose its easy to mix up.😀👍
Good tip! Thank you.
I need to do this for my older Subaru as well. Thanks for a great video! 👍🏻
I have a leak on the exact same line on my 2005 legacy Outback wagon. Do I need to replace the whole stainless steel line? Or can I just replace the one hose that's leaking?
this is what im wondering ? the hoses up front do seem to have a slight leak so im thinking of replacing, but the metal pipes dont seem to have any leaks ???
The new metal lines are sold as a two-line kit. The OEM metal lines are welded together and can't easily be separated. It would be *more* difficult to replace just one metal line.
When my metal transmission oil cooler lines developed a leak, I replaced the metal lines entirely with flexible rubber transmission oil hose. The flexible hose runs directly from the transmission oil cooler in the bottom of the radiator all the way back to the metal nipples on the transmission. It's worked great since I installed it four years ago. It's easy to install the flexible hose.
My metal lines failed due to corrosion right on the nipple of the metal line at the radiator end. It was a pinhole leak that sprayed high-pressure transmission fluid all around that area of my engine bay; it was a mess.
@@davidkott6959 id prefer to buy them stainless steel versions rather then the OEM made of plain metal.. they are cheaper and easier to get in australia also which is a bonus for me, OEM subaru parts are a pain in the ass to get here and dare generally overpriced
Mono gram adikt I agree; stainless is the way to go if you're replacing these lines the hard way. The OEM low chrome steel will rust out, leak and strand you with an empty transmission. This is the first time I'm advocating a Dorman part!
Hello thanks for the great video. I followed your instructions but I unfortunately forgot to mark my lines and where they go can you tell me on a 2001 Subaru Forester L where the inlet and Outlet are located on the transmission? They're already connected to the transmission but I had to disconnect them in the center and they're both equal length so I don't know which is which
Muchas gracias! Excelente video! Thanks a lot from Colombia.
Man thank u very much very helpful I’m about to do that on my 09 starting to see the leak
What were to happen if the cooler hoses were switched?
You wouldn't get correct circulation. Take a fast pic of original connections before disconnecting.
I don't think anything will change. The oil transmission cooler inside the radiator is just a coil of metal tube bathed in the engine coolant. The transmission oil will flow in either direction through that coil; it's just a tube. It doesn't matter which way you flow transmission oil through the radiator's transmission oil cooler.
Excellent video as always! You do a great job!
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
This is exactly what I needed for my '13 Forester!!!! Thank you!!!
@staci Was the part the same as the one he linked to for you forester?
@@natey18 I ordered the part from a Subaru dealer, to get the correct one. But yes, same, basically. ATF cooling line.
@@natey18 the Subaru part is copper or copper-lined. Just got new parts today in the mail and installed (just washed up) since I first replied.
Great video, Thanks for making this.
Do you know what the part number is for the mounting bolts?
This is a great video however would you have a clip of how to put the line in. I am having real trouble seeing how to put it back.
Thank you for your very informative demo of how to replace ATF cooling lines on a 2010 Impreza. I have a 2010 Impreza with the same exact leak in the same exact location. I was surprised that not much AT fluid gushed out when you disconnected the hoses. Did you drain the ATF from the transmission off camera before disconnecting anything?
im curious about burping trans oil lines ? will bubbles of air just push their way through the system or is there a correct way to make sure its just a steady stream of coolant and no trapped air pockets that will lead to over heating and warning lights coming up on the dash ?
This video saved my ass. Thank you sir
I really hope I get a reply here. I'm doing this part, I've got my ends disconnected.. how the hell did you get this thing out?! Did you pull it from under the car??
@CarsNToys I bought the line from Amazon, doing this on my wife's 09 Subaru impreza this weekend. I put a used motor in it not too long ago and she's running great again but now this transmission leak is costing me 30 bucks a week in fluid Lol my mechanic tried to replace the hose but then he said the pipe was crumbling and he couldn't get a hose clamp on tight enough. My question is, did a lot of fluid drain out when you disconnected the cooler line? I'll be doing this one myself. Thanks!
Not too much drained out. However, I tend to be mindful when disconnecting / removing rubber hoses. In other words, I'll make sure the end of the hose is facing up and I'll insert a stopper, or paper towels, to prevent any further mess.
How did it go? I need to do this on my '09 Impreza as well. Just ordering the parts as we speak...
I have the same question as someone else - which line is the outflow from the cooler? I want to flush the system. (Really, someone should do a video on that, as it is more common when buying a used car and the trans fluid looks like its all been in there a good while. The conventional drain @ the trans pan and then fill only replaces 1/2 the fluid at most.)
would this be the cause of the at oil temp light flashing along with the traction control and abs light coming on ? *ive been systematically going through everything to try and figure it out ? all my fluids are good ect ?
Yes, as far the the Oil Temp Light.
@@beitel21 i ended up putting new radiator in and doing a coolant flush and replacement and everything seems to be running smoothly now *did oil change and also replaced a few lost litres of trans fluid that happened when taking out the old radiator,, i definitely think you have to be as accurate as possible when refilling engine and trans oil as even slightly too much can seem to create issues, slightly less seems to work better and adding a few hundred ml at a time and checking dipsticks until the levels look reasonable etc while the engine is cool of course
How can I get cooling lines for my 1993subu legacy?.
Anyone have an issue with the hose blowing off of the radiator on the passenger side? At first I thought maybe the clamp wasn’t tight. But then it did it again and I had made sure it was tightened
How long did that take?
Hi, is it manual or auto transmission? Thanks
Auto
My brother says his is leaking passenger side from transmison cooling lines did anybody have to replace on passenger side
I love it, just pull it out, snake it out. The hardest part of the job is trying to get that thing out. And it completely got skipped
Same thing when it went back in. several minutes talking about hoses then the camera angle switches and it's back in
Hello. Can anybody tell me which line goes in to the radiator(ATF) and which comes out back to the Tranny?
I don't know you but I love you so much ❤️💕
That is wonderful swetty i love u to.the way i am is if u like me i like u if u dont like me i dont like u. And that the way i think mabe send me a picture of u and ill send u one of me?
@@garyshropshire9588 Really bruh 😐
Where did you source the stainless lines for your Subaru? I recently replaced the same lines on my '04 LL Bean Outback and ended up just buying a new set of the Subaru OEM steel lines.
Here you go:
amzn.to/2KjUdnd
Thanks for the video. That fluid was nasty looking!
Hope it helped. Yes, I should really flush the fluid. Cheers.
@@CarsNToys I wouldn't flush it. (You probably know this) older fluid that has gone past its prime has grit in it that is actually giving needed friction on the plates. Yes, the plates are worn out because of the girt but it's actually giving the trans it's last life. Once you "flush" the ATF, all of that suspended grit is 1) no longer providing friction on the plates that it needed and 2) the debris that was "safely" suspended somewhere is now floating around and will eventually lodge in some small port causing likely failure. I would just get what you can from the pan and refill. At least that Impreza has a plug so it's easy. Dropping the pan is an option. I would never flush it unless the fluid is fairly clean (yours might have been fine I couldn't see it on a white paper towel.) Some people would say that "flushing it" gets all of the debris out but that is incorrect. Keep the fluid at least a slight shade of pink and flush away, once it's too dark to see through - change only the few quarts from the pan's drain plug. You have to use judgement (actually more like guess) as to how long your "fluid changes" should be. I would try to do them every 15k once you discover dark fluid. If the transmission is still working after say 30k, I'd bump the fluid change to 10k and lower.
Great video but, you never showed how to release the clips on the silver line. I good video nonetheless.
Tanks
Mines leaking, hoping it's just the rubber hose and not the metal lines. Find out in the morning I guess.
Must be a common issue cus my 2011 Forester started leaking today.
Great video also!
Having a hard time to find this part online..ahh
Just a heads up prepare for hell when trying to remove the hoses they dont just pop off in the real world. I ended up chunking mine and cutting it off and I'm the one who put them hoses on there. 11 minute video I'm on hour #2 now.
dealer wanted me to pay $450 for this simple 1 hour job.. what a rip off.. Stay away from dealers for this type of jobs.
Also recommend to get new set of the rubber hoses and clamps. Pinching existing hoses back in different spot might cause leak.. I had that so I went and replaced all 4 hoses and clamps.
Whitby Subaru recently quoted me $550 and 2 hours. Initially they said it was leaking and I mentioned never seeing oil on the garage floor. Story changed to it's badly rusted and could start leaking. After watching this video, I'll wait a month for the warm weather and do it myself.