Technique or Strength - What's best for climbing?
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- Опубликовано: 12 апр 2024
- Matilda is back, and we have another flash-fight! First one to do 3 boulders that the other one doesn't wins the game.
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FIlmed by Cordelia MJ
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson
Hey all, firstly I'm just gonna clarify something: I used the word "Flash" a bit incorrectly here, I'm referring to a concept called "day-flashing", which is when you do the boulder on the first go of the day. Flash is technically doing a climb on the first attempt, which maybe half of these boulders were. The other half we had tried on previous sessions! For the sake of the competition we couldn't do proper flashes, since we had either tried or climbed many of the boulders in the gym already.
Also, production speed has been a bit lower lately as I've been editing a monster of a video (film from Lofoten last summer with Matilda), and on Monday I'm off to Tokyo for 2 weeks for a bunch of fun film stuff, so expect May to be packed with content!
we all gonna be psyched for may! 🔥
Off to Japan uh? Filming with some other youtuber maybe? 😏
Trick question. We all know from Magnus it’s hidden option number 3. Taking your shirt off.
As a climber whose strength let him advance quickly without gaining as much technique, this is the perfect video to help me improve!
I wish i were you.
@@idaveje383 sorry if it came off bragging. It was not intended that way. What I’m saying is that I got through a few grades fast but my technique is awful because of it. So to actually be a good climber, I need to develop that technique.
@@chasingfelix3609 No,no I did not mean it like you were rude or anything. It's just that im the opposite of you. I have good technique but hard to build strength so I wish I had easy to build strength thats all. It was a joke lol. Sorry if It came off as rude, mb
@@idaveje383 you’re good! Hopefully we can gain more of what we are missing and keep getting better.
Nicest internet interaction I’ve seen and faith in people restored aha
17:42 "I've been lied to" 😂 my new favourite climbing quote
The stakes should be that whoever loses will be allowed to do only crack climbing for the next 6 months! Pete will be stoked 😉
I think make it that they need to complete some hard crack problem in that gym before they can do anything else
I like how Emil watches Matilda climbing as if he's watching an exotic animal😂
Like the sturdy foundation beneath a soaring tower, strength and technique intertwine in the ascent of mastery. One without the other leaves the climber incomplete, for strength fuels ambition while technique guides the path. In the crucible of challenge, they are not adversaries, but allies, forging resilience and precision. Embrace both, for in their harmonious balance, we find the summit of possibility.
wow what a beautifully written comment
While I may have gone with a more bone-headed mentality in this video, I actually really appreciate this way of describing the two! Beautiful
Bot
Nice use of ChatGPT 👍🏼
Me no understand those words, me PULL!
The dynamic between the two of you is so smooth, makes for a great watch!
Gotta love the "Yeah Boi!" at 18:55 😂
Always love the collabs with Mathilda, such a good time.
"Fearless competition" and then proceed to encourage and support each other through each climb
I love her style, the change of beta of the first problem blown my mind :O
i could not possibly be more excited for matilda to have her own channel
Love to see Matilda here, you both compliment each other so well. Y'all should do a summer trip with Pete and Tom again, that clip was extrodinary entertaining
I will 100% be subscribing to Matilda’s channel
Great video! Idea for another competition: pick a not too hard boulder V3-V5 you both have to climb and each time one of you gets to remove one intermediate hold, the first who can't climb it while the other still can loses
That’s actually so fire
Just got done climbing. Stoked to watch.
Matilda's lock off strength is crazy! Thanks for another awesome video of two of my favorite climbers ❤
He broke that boulder so much without even meaning to that’s crazy
Just got back from a bad climbing session-but Emil has uploaded… Ill take that! Love your content
Thanks homie! Appreciate the support
yay I just watched the previous contest between you a few days ago. Perfect timing !
"Are we here climbing boulders or solving differential equations?" - Emil Abrahamsson 😂 8:12 That has to be the quote of this video
Mathilda is in a such controool 🤩 Static rules!
Indoor bouldering... It's somewhere between a v7 to v9
Outdoor bouldering... It took me two years to go from v7 to v9
Always good vibes in your videos 🌞🖐
As a fellow power junky I'm happy you finally beat technique.
Love the videos with Matilda! Any competition between the two of you needs to include some techy lead climbing though, otherwise it just won't be matched!
Whoever loses has to do an easy boulder for an insane amount of repetitions. Awesome video. Mathilda climbs with such impeccable grace, and the positions you can generate power from is equally as graceful in an aggressive way. Thank you for uploading.
Yeah! let’s get them tendonitis 😄. . . How bout no
@Radian-Absolute They've been climbing for a long time, I'm sure they're aware of when it becomes too much. Can understand your point of view though.
I also have the technique where I just try as hard as I can on every Boulder. Probably why I tore my bicep...
Great Video! You two work so great together as a pair
I'm hyped to see the next one!
Looser has to visit the cellar and try all the weird stuff Pete is doing down there?
Also, would be awesome to see a flash-off with Nikken! He's been looking very strong
When Emil has an incredible climbing day, the rest of us can only dream
In the spirit of the new combined olympics format, I think it would be interesting to see at least one route put into the mix. I have a hunch that your different styles become even more apparent in the lead wall 😉
Real title:
Strength + Technique or Technique + Strength?
It feels like logically the winner is strength + technique, can't maximize your strength on the wall with good technique unless you have strength to maximize
Good technique comes with strength, it's hard to exercise proper techinue when you can barely hold a position or hold. Conversely strength comes with good technique. Good technique and positioning can make a strong move easier.
If you watch raw beginners, many of them (especially those whose pronouns are he/ him) often use their impressive strength to avoid learning to climb efficiently. Women often learn efficient climbing quickly then add strength quite naturally, then start crushing it and leaving their boyfriend behind. Leads to quite a few breakups when the guy gets jealous.
🗽 Love to see Matilda again... 💖
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We need a new Cordi video!!
Seems dynamic climbers might commit more and flash more. Might rely more on luck (and have more opportunities from more strength). Flashing isn't everything of course. We all know power and technique are key. Rock climbers are elitely technical n precise already compared to nearly every other sport.. static climbers may be more analytic which is fine. #thoughts
Amazing video!
I wish they tried each other’s beta, would’ve been really interesting!
Emil at 6:53
So happy to score two points. 😂
It's like watching a Shaolin master vs. a barbarian.
Dang she is so good.
So there is a land where everybody is handsome and practice bouldering …
Where is it ?
Would love to see you in Japan at B-pump, really interesting to see how you do on those grades. Bring Nikken, have him set with them and exchange setting culture. And bring Magnus, because he's always adding an extra flare :D
Matildas ape index looksmcrazy
8:50 completely destroyed the beta 😂
I would say technique is more important than strength, cause once you've got good technique the needed strength will naturally build and if you lack strength, like I did when I started (and I also couldn't 'just reach' on easy boulders, since I'm 5'2), it forces you to learn more technique early on, meaning you won't hit a plateau the same way a strong person with 0 technique likely will. I would also like to add a 3rd element to this tho, which is bravery. You can't progress if you're too scared to do certain things. (But there is a difference between being brave, and being reckless and dynoing to crimps a month into your climbing. that's how you injure yourself)
sick🤙
silly question - with no strength you can't climb anything. this is why even novices who are strong do better than the average climber who has been climbing for years. now I will watch the video.....back now, brilliant video, great entertainment, loved it.
Emil makes everything look like a v2, it is not fair
I will patiently await demon Matilda
You need a good combination of both to be really good. Me and my friend climb the same level and he's twice as strong as me but not as technical.
matilda is so cool
Competition idea: outdoor sport climb, either os comp or day send comp
I feel like the boulders at my gym, when it comes to these harder ones, never has as many holds - im only a v3 beginner myself but its just something ive noticed
MATILDAAAAA whoop whoop!
Static climbing doesn't mean its more technical, just meaning its different. Static climbing doesn't mean its more efficient. Sometime it is, sometime it isn't, it does depend on the problem and your body morphology for said problem.
Tips for begginers to increase the endurance so climbing sessions can take as long as yours? 😅I'm thinking sport climbing probably helps, but I don't know other methods
You could take a bunch of climbers of mixed levels, coach them a bit and then do a team competition.
Got it, I'll work on my one-armers and forget about technique. This was definitely the takeaway of this video. 👍
As for a competition, maybe some sort of bouldery lead route competition, with a very cold dip into a river or lake as punishment.
I haven't seen technique till I climbed at bpump ogikuboro for 3 months straight and watched japanese world cup climbers climb!
(though to be honest they are also strong... but in a different way)
grat vid, you need both. but i seen alot of strong people not coming nowehere onn a climb, but if you train climbing style "strength" what ever that is you can come a longer then a short way, but you gonna need some techniuqe in the end. but with technuiqe you can come a long long way, and the thing hindering you in the en dis strenght. so you need both 100% but techniuqe is op XD
cant wait to see matildas crack climbing video
Here's an idea about the stakes : how about a championship belt ?
I’m pretty beat after just three hours of hard bouldering. I imagine being able to go hard for eight hours straight helped a lot with training for competitions.
The short answer to the question the video poses is "yes".
....Dollar challenge: 4 slab boulders v9 to v11, 4 crimp style boulders v9 to v11, 4 dynamic boulders v9 to v11, 4 physical boulders v9 to v11. Good luck🎉
Strength pushes up your max grade, while good technique lets you send with less attempts? It's very boulder dependent tho
Next in the series: What is more important for survival? The heart or the lungs?
this is random but I saw a TikTok saying Swedish accent sounds like stitch from lil and stitch and I can't stop hearing it now! anyone else?
Embrace the duality, strong-tekkers FTW
A competition with emil, matilda, nikken
"There is no such thing as too much strength" W.G.
For the Problem at about 9 minutes
The route setter: uh some nice moves i planned there
Emil: why are there so many holds?
Steaks as stakes?
Deep water soloing with Matilda. Loser falls in 😅
Video halfway over and we already see its strength I guess. But i dont think thats fair because its not like emil has bad technique 🤷♀️
If you're brave you can take reference from Anna Hazelnutt's challenge videos. Going up to a stranger and twerk at them, do a pistol squat on the gym's front desk and having the winner draw anything they want on you with a big ol' marker, just to name a few of their loser punishments. That ought to bring out the demon :P
🗽Technique, strength and flexibility is important! ☝
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@JonaasK Okay, mobility is the better word. 🤨
i am looking forward to the demonic episode!
Wait, on the first boulder emil said they both tried it before, but he said he flashed it? Does that mean it can be still be considered a flash if you have previous attempts? have i misunderstood that terminology this whole time
Nope, you’ve understood right. Flash is first go, what this actually is is a ‘retro-flash challenge’ 😊
also a lot of people will call it a "day flash" if they have already tried and but do it first try of the day
Saw a video where it said that swedish girls speaking english sound like Sticht and… I’m sorry Matilda but I can’t unhear it now
Im always scared to mention weight but which one of you is stronger by body weight % ?
2 min into the video. Thats not just technique, but insane flexibility imo.
Doesn't flash mean never done the boulder before?
Flash means doing the boulder on your very first try, with the knowledge of how it is supposed to be climbed or after at least having looked at someone climb the route beforehand. Onsight means flashing a route, but without any knowledge of how it is supposed to be climbed, essentially doing it "blind".
@@Cqat1 I think their point was that Emil and Matilda had done some of the boulders already before this video thus not being a true flash challenge. I guess you could count them as day-flashes so it still works 🤷♂️
@@Cqat1 ah thanks. I thought onsight meant you tried it another day but failed, yours is a much better definition!
Hong kong mentioned raaaahhhhh
Feels like they are not counting finger strength as a strength? In my opinion climbing is 80% finger strength, 10% body strength and 10% technique. But what do i know? I'm just a beginner who struggle to dead hang for 10 seconds and see finger strength as the major obstacle.
dang im third
did matilda delete her video or just never posted it?
She has very long arms damn!
Me watching this video after a lock off and fingers training 😅😂
dang im second
Dang I’m fourth
I can höra the svengelska
4:26 doesn't count)) step on the yellow hold 😅
The female swedish accent is like Stitch 😂
Omg yes!!
Technique will only get you so far: hit the weights!
Strength will only get you so far: Always hold yourself accountable for your weaknesses, and chase improvement/progression!
Dang I’m late
9:00 I guess it's not cheating if you add a note saying it's not what it looks like during editing 😅 Mathilda is too kind to you Emile!
Power can save you from bad technique. And technique can save you from a lack of power.