What’s More Important in Climbing - Technique or Strength? (In-Depth Comparison)

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  • Опубликовано: 27 май 2024
  • Following our most popular video to date, we are back with another comparison video!
    This time we explore the differences between two climbers: Kaitlynn - who specialises in techy climbing and Sam - who is incredibly strong.
    We delve into the differences, benefits and curses of such specialisms and how we can learn from the super powers of others.
    00:00 Titles
    00:13 Intro
    02:26 First Boulder - V4 Dyno
    03:22 Second Boulder - V5 Powerful
    05:22 Third Boulder - V6 Slab
    08:25 Analysis - Slab
    13:28 Analysis - Dyno
    15:43 Analysis - Powerful
    19:33 Outro
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Комментарии • 203

  • @Tr1gg3e
    @Tr1gg3e 7 месяцев назад +86

    @6:47 - 6:57 Wow! Kaitlynn has FLOW! that was butter smooth, each move linked seamlessly! 👏👏👏

    • @nilsp9426
      @nilsp9426 3 месяца назад +2

      And it is almost all in the legs and hip position, reminding us that excellent climbing is not about pulling hard...

  • @Mathnapkin
    @Mathnapkin 7 месяцев назад +310

    I would have loved to see them try the climb with opposite style after they mentioned they wanted to try it.

  • @chriss4855
    @chriss4855 7 месяцев назад +216

    in my experience having been climbing for nearly 15 years yet remaining hardstuck on v6-v8 for half of that since practically all i train is strength, i can confidently say that obviously strength is more important because it lets me campus v1's

    • @json_bourne3812
      @json_bourne3812 7 месяцев назад +31

      Anything to WOW the new climbers at the gym! 😂 though to be fair (as someone 3 months in and has climbed a max of V3) I'm often as or more impressed by someone making what I considering a tough climb look just SO smooth

    • @ST-vt4nu
      @ST-vt4nu 7 месяцев назад +16

      @@json_bourne3812 People sometimes tell me that I made a climb look so easy, while in fact I had been projecting that climb for 2 weeks and the first time I finally did it looked messy as hell. 😅The thing they are seeing is me repeating that climb for like the 5th time. I always make sure to tell them that, as to encourage them to keep trying the climb

    • @json_bourne3812
      @json_bourne3812 7 месяцев назад +10

      @@ST-vt4nu Yeah absolutely! I'm a perfectionist in other aspects of my life (and therefore often bail out of activities/ideas that I can't immediately be good at!) but bouldering has been a great suppressor of that feeling; you have to just try and try and fail until you don't!

    • @xilefx
      @xilefx 7 месяцев назад +2

      as if that makes you a good climber. doubt you did 15years if you think that.
      technique = efficiency so you need less strength. what you need for harder problems is muscle endurance though

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov 7 месяцев назад +1

      @@xilefx no... we are not talking about climbing routes... for boulders you need max power. small levers and low weight makes every climb easier, that isnt out of reach. thats why the girl's "technique" looks so much better then that of the guy.

  • @ComputerManDanMiller
    @ComputerManDanMiller 7 месяцев назад +464

    To be fair I doubt Kaitlynn's fingers are really much weaker than Sam's which on most climbs is going to be the more important strength metric. It just sounds like she doesn't do max hangs on a hangboard very often. That said I'm sure you're already very aware of this! Also Sam's finger strength is monstrous considering how new he is to climbing.

    • @nickdefrancis3050
      @nickdefrancis3050 7 месяцев назад +16

      Ye pull-up strength != finger strength. Sounds like she was doing longer hangs on the beastmaker already.

    • @raphaelfalque683
      @raphaelfalque683 7 месяцев назад +2

      Also, she is probably more flexible

    • @staticoverplastic7456
      @staticoverplastic7456 7 месяцев назад

      @@nickdefrancis3050 exactly! one can easily argue she's stronger

    • @soccutd77
      @soccutd77 7 месяцев назад +22

      @@staticoverplastic7456can you though? If the guy is one arming a 20 mm edge, I really doubt that girl is stronger in any way other than flexibility.

    • @staticoverplastic7456
      @staticoverplastic7456 7 месяцев назад +4

      @@soccutd77 if she's hanging for longer yes. She's probably got better contact strength than him in most situations.

  • @djdrogs
    @djdrogs 7 месяцев назад +38

    The focus on Kaitlynn's left foot during her second attempt at the slab was masterful. Carefully placed with max rubber on the hold, and the heel stayed down and didn't move he whole sequence. That is smearing perfection.

  • @flwi
    @flwi 7 месяцев назад +97

    Wow - she climbs like a cat. Very silent and elegant. And so flexible.
    His performance is also very impressive. Only 1,5year..? Amazing!
    I really enjoyed this comparison video!

    • @nilsp9426
      @nilsp9426 3 месяца назад

      he trained with Catalyst Climbing, I guess ;-)

  • @Trowa71
    @Trowa71 7 месяцев назад +63

    As a weaker climber myself, I have to focus very hard on technique. For example, I make it a point to essentially never cut feet. I think about flagging and twisting always instead of doing big pullups to the next move. I think these differences are really exasperated on longer climbs, where even the strongest climbers will gas out without efficient technique.

  • @LatticeTraining
    @LatticeTraining 7 месяцев назад +188

    Cool analysis video Loui. Sam is very strong indeed, I assume he had some of this strength before he started climbing! It would be cool to explore Kaitlynn's flexibility more. Both strength and flexibility are physical attributes that provide affordances (opportunities for movement solutions). So Kaitlynn might have the physical advantage in some situations, despite the experience and technique differences. Maybe a 'strength vs flexibility' comparison and it's effect on technique/beta choices would be cool?

  • @sneakysnake123
    @sneakysnake123 7 месяцев назад +29

    I really like the arrow and circle drawings while showing the next climb :) Nice editing

  • @CaffeineStu
    @CaffeineStu 7 месяцев назад +78

    Would have loved to see Sam retry that powerful boulder with something closer to Kaitlynn's technique!

  • @manicantsettleonausername6789
    @manicantsettleonausername6789 7 месяцев назад +31

    Really enjoyed that! Obviously it's cool to see people do big powerful moves, but my favourite kind of climbing to watch is people knowing their technique so well it looks effortless. Props to both climbers and to you for this video!

  • @user-ry1bp8nf1i
    @user-ry1bp8nf1i 5 месяцев назад +9

    Really enjoyed this video. I relied on strength to climb for many years. Now, after a 15 yr hiatus, I’ve come back to climbing on the wrong side of 60. Strength just doesn’t develop that quickly anymore, so I’ve been focusing on the technique I never developed before. If I had a Time Machine I’d go back and tell my younger self to focus on both - also maybe more open hand, less crimping.

  • @json_bourne3812
    @json_bourne3812 7 месяцев назад +17

    As someone who's only been climbing 3 months with a max of V3, I LOVE seeing this difference. I'm a male that's not starting out strong (no real serious gym/weight time almost ever) so I've put a lot of focus on trying to improve my technique, and the strength is slowly coming naturally. I admire the good technique and hope to replicate it and I'm super motivated by both the climbers' styles here!

  • @kajtekmccranck9978
    @kajtekmccranck9978 7 месяцев назад +11

    I guess Kaitlynn's economical way of climbing gives her an advantage of climbing more per session/week. The more energy you save theore you can climb. I mean - powerful moves exhaust the nervous system more what can result in longer rest needed or shorter session. The more one can climb the better..

  • @18Margaretta
    @18Margaretta 7 месяцев назад +34

    I really like Kaitlynn’s moves and techniques, she is confident in her way to solve problems 😊

  • @chrisembry3736
    @chrisembry3736 7 месяцев назад +32

    Two terrificly gifted climbers. Can't wait to see them in a few years.

  • @raymondmills8365
    @raymondmills8365 7 месяцев назад +19

    Absolute beginner - technique leads to quickest gains, as simply knowing how to move like a climber allows you improve faster than your strength improvement. Then you hit eventually a point where strength (particularly finger strength will prevent you from progressing further regardless of technique unless you get stronger as you just can´t hold onto the holds or hold body tension for moves (technique is still important). Once you´ve built up the strength, (much like as a beginner) technique takes center stage even more than before as there will be many climbs where you can physically do the individual moves, but lack the technique to do them optimally/link the moves/conserve energy to complete the climb, etc.

    • @jamesclark6257
      @jamesclark6257 7 месяцев назад +1

      Think it actually takes a certain level of strength to perform climbing techniques. There is some evidence to suggest beginners climb with bent arms because it actually gives them more grip strength. It's only once you've built some strength that it becomes easier to climb with straight arms.

    • @Cristyface
      @Cristyface 7 месяцев назад +2

      @@jamesclark6257 Ohh, is that why? I never understood why people would climb with the bent arms, though I am positive I did it at the beginning, too. I always attributed it to being scared of letting go, so they overcompensate by trying to cling close to the wall and expending more energy, but it makes sense that perhaps a lack of grip strength could be the reason.

    • @lolzguyl
      @lolzguyl 7 месяцев назад +1

      ​@@Cristyface Very possible that fear of falling/letting go is why as well! My thought process was that since the goal is clibming upwards, the perception is before mild exposure to climbing fundamentals is that pulling your way closer to the top is the way to go.

    • @SpartaSpartan117
      @SpartaSpartan117 7 месяцев назад +1

      ​@@jamesclark6257What evidence?

    • @jamesclark6257
      @jamesclark6257 7 месяцев назад

      @SpartaSpartan117 dude, I'm just a gut commenting on RUclips. I can't list studies but m.ruclips.net/video/IxySYhdcESM/видео.html

  • @TheRockinPunk
    @TheRockinPunk 7 месяцев назад +11

    Interesting comparison, I definitely feel that to be a good all-round climber you need to work on both strength and technique rather than being blindly focused on one or the other. I would have thought it would be worth mentioning in the analysis the differences in height and proportions which is going to have a big impact on technique choice.

  • @maarten541
    @maarten541 7 месяцев назад +19

    Yes! This is great content! The deep analysis afterwards is so helpful. Would love to see more of these comparison videos, short vs tall climbers, or different ape index, dynamic vs static, strong vs weak, flexibel vs tight, or even (I don't know how) but some dare devil vs careful climbers? Anyway! Great content, more of this! ❤

  • @recessiv3
    @recessiv3 7 месяцев назад +3

    3:52 She is a super powerful climber too, look at that lock off!

  • @JBsoable
    @JBsoable 7 месяцев назад +3

    Nice comparison of the two very far ends of the spectrum we see at the boulder gym these days: 40kg yoga girl vs 90kg gym bro :) I would have liked a bit more investigation on the finger strength component though. Kaitlynn’s fingers are probably equally strong if you compare to body weight maybe even stronger! Pull ups don’t matter that much I think. Both are amazing climbers. Keep it up!

  • @ST-vt4nu
    @ST-vt4nu 7 месяцев назад +16

    I'm a 5'2 female who didn't do any strength based sport before I started, so I was forced into learning techniques from the very start. Getting up a V1 even required decent technique for me. I can see with a lot of the tall and strong climbers that they have now hit a point where their strength and height don't help them enough anymore and I sometimes see frustration when they have been stuck at the same grade for ages. What I would say to people with that issue, is work on your technique on the climbs you can already do and see the bettering of technique as progress, same as you would with going up in grades. I had to go through something similar in building confidence and I see each bit of confidence I gain as progress, even if I didn't finish a single climb of a higher grade the whole session. And in the end climbing is just a lot of fun

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov 7 месяцев назад +1

      dont shame the "technique" of other guys. you dont have their worse weight, levers and center of gravity. it starts with longer fingers and end with longer feet. range can be an advantage on some problems/routes, maybe even so that you cant finish a problem because you are to short to even reach the next hold dynamicly. but reach/height also comes with a lot of disadvantages on every single route! remember: on worse holds you always have advantages compared to the tall strong guys. thats maybe why you think, they have bad tec. they work with what they have, aswell as you do. overstaticly climbing is a blessing only smaller and lighter people can enjoy. bigger, taller guys have to dyno a lot because its faster and in that way more efficient.
      greetings from your 96kg indoor boulderguy

    • @iasyama1999
      @iasyama1999 6 месяцев назад +1

      ​@@TheValinovtell that to my 6'0 65kg friend that just reaches holds that I need to jump to. Being taller is definitely better than being shorter in climbing unless youre 5'7/8

    • @La0bouchere
      @La0bouchere 6 месяцев назад

      @@iasyama1999 Depends on the route. Being lighter is extremely important in climbing, especially for sport. Short people can train their crimp to god levels without even trying that hard, and don't have to trash their mental health dieting to stay light lol

    • @thunderball11111
      @thunderball11111 2 месяца назад

      @@La0bouchere Resident short arse checking in. Dieting when you're small is hell, having two and a half sandwhiches as a days food is horrific and it becomes almost impossible to lose weight and get all your nutrition. I also personally can't crimp worth shit. I've found the biggest advantage for me comes in generating force and leverage in specific places but honestly speaking, you don't need to generate that force in the first place if you're taller a solid 95% of the time as you can just reach the hold to begin with. Oh and obviously some climbs are set quite scrunched up which is easier for me because I can reach everything eliminating my usual issue and I'm not pushed off the wall like taller people.

  • @muumarlin1731
    @muumarlin1731 7 месяцев назад +9

    Fantastic video! Love the analysis and the side-by-side comparison - that's extremely helpful as a teaching tool I think. Look forward to many more of these!

  • @djinn1985
    @djinn1985 7 месяцев назад +5

    Super interesting watch!! As a smaller climber who's not able to do much hangboarding due to injuries,I've been focusing more on technique, body tension and posterior chain(stuff like deadlifts up super light)and that seems to compensate for not being super strong.

  • @Jambassador
    @Jambassador 7 месяцев назад

    Excellent video. I loved your side-by-side comparison, your commentary, and the way you get to know the climbers. As someone who definitely identifies more as a V5/6 "strong" climber with less precise technique, this inspires me to keep training my technique. Definitely earned yourself a subscriber :)!

  • @user-ir6nh2gy6x
    @user-ir6nh2gy6x 7 месяцев назад

    Love this channel! Quickly became my favorite climbing channel, Louis is the best host and an amazing coach, love the energy this guy brings with all his guests. Another great video guys, keep it up!!!

  •  10 дней назад

    Hello from France.
    Love your channel. I'm a beginner in climbing (1 month) and the max i climb is 6A. I'm learning a lot when climbing (for sure) but also when i'm watching your video. Always a loooooot of good advices in it. Thank's for sharing your knowledge and thank's for editing with split screen and arrows/circle palet witch made it really easy to understand. ✌️✌️✌️

  • @skatenec
    @skatenec 7 месяцев назад

    This channel is so great. As a new climber, I really appreciate the comparisons and breakdown of each climb.

  • @EmilAbrahamsson
    @EmilAbrahamsson 7 месяцев назад +32

    First

  • @diegovd7215
    @diegovd7215 7 месяцев назад +1

    I really enjoyed this video. La grâce et la finesse de Kaitlynn, vs. la force brute de Sam. Great editing on the side by side comparison. Really good stuff. Thanks

  • @matteobecchi1210
    @matteobecchi1210 7 месяцев назад

    Really loving these comparison/analysis video!

  • @wazzup105
    @wazzup105 4 месяца назад +1

    Excellent coaching. Not only knowledgeable, but so much confidence inspiring!!

  • @nilsp9426
    @nilsp9426 7 месяцев назад +2

    What a wonderful and instructive video!

  • @nogard8541
    @nogard8541 7 месяцев назад

    It'd be super interesting to see both of them try something like a V5/V6 campus problem. Love the comparison/analysis videos by the way!

  • @TheBigMe0w
    @TheBigMe0w 7 месяцев назад

    Great video! Would love to see more comparisons of these two!

  • @leftcoastbeard
    @leftcoastbeard 7 месяцев назад +5

    Having solid foundations in both strength and technique is mutually beneficial. Remembering to practice both is a challenge sometimes.

  • @cloud-fg5cb
    @cloud-fg5cb 7 месяцев назад +7

    Strength and technique are synergistic in climbing. Trying to separate one from the other is pointless imo. Reality is, you can't position yourself properly off a 6mm edge unless you are strong enough to pull on it. The same can be said for heel hooks, toe hooks, lock offs... ect.

    • @hyteclowlife
      @hyteclowlife 7 месяцев назад

      Yep! Strength unlocks technique. There's no point in trying to get fancy if your base ability to create oppositional force isn't good enough. If you can get into a difficult position and hold it, you are, by definition, strong enough to apply the technique. There's also different kinds of strength that you can apply to climbing, as strength in terms of mobility and power do not overlap very well.
      I know Obstacle Course Racing coaches who can campus juggy overhangs all day, and can flash comp problems that require lots of coordination and the ability to move the center of gravity effectively. But put them on a crimpy V3 with toe or heel hooks and they can barely even start. If they do train climbing-specific techniques they progress REALLY quickly because so much of the basic fitness and strength is already there, they just need to learn how to apply it.

  • @jasonwong4619
    @jasonwong4619 7 месяцев назад +1

    Wowow super psyched for this type of video!! I was trying that black v5 and that pinch is reallyy bad, glad I can get some beta from this vid!

  • @shaneh7519
    @shaneh7519 7 месяцев назад +2

    I definitely climb more like Sam so it was great to see the comparison side by side.
    Such a great video with lots of insight

  • @Roko333
    @Roko333 4 месяца назад

    Great video, thanks😊

  • @RiversideM
    @RiversideM 7 месяцев назад +8

    Had kinda the experience they are talking about at the end. I came from a powerlifting background and when I started climbing, I was able to muscle through the lower grades. Not needing technique meant however that I didn't learn to do it properly. So when I came to grades where strength isn't enough, I was stuck for month at a point where lower grades were too easy and harder grades were too hard. So in a way, strength actually hindered my progress

  • @Lokigh
    @Lokigh 7 месяцев назад +8

    I love these videos as a regular at euston/harrow. It's really interesting to see the routes I try broken down! :) I believe I flashed the slab by doing a split (skipping out the terrible foothold) and matching on the crip, like sam did on his first try:) Sam just needed to turn his right hip into the wall at 12:23 so he could get more leverage from the crimp and pull through slowly!

  • @firewalk312
    @firewalk312 2 месяца назад

    Excellent climbers. & a really helpful breakdown!!

  • @Harry-mr3mn
    @Harry-mr3mn 6 месяцев назад

    love these analysis videos

  • @dillonr6265
    @dillonr6265 3 месяца назад

    Thanks for the video

  • @JanNowak-ss1fq
    @JanNowak-ss1fq 7 месяцев назад +1

    Nice climbers, great content, Louise!

  • @farfouine87
    @farfouine87 7 месяцев назад

    Thank you Louis for your videos... Helping me improve my english, and I hope my climbing with a nice british accent !

  • @MissSummerAlice
    @MissSummerAlice 5 месяцев назад

    This video is so so so helpful and inspiring for a not so strong climber.

  • @Riptyphoon
    @Riptyphoon 7 месяцев назад

    As I've been going to the gym for years before my first climbing session, I was able to essentially brute force my way into overhangs and higher grades just with strength alone. Managed to go way past my peers who started climbing at the same time. But I know I eventually have to fine tune my technique, as the routes get significantly harder without proper movements.

  • @mirjamhoferichter5560
    @mirjamhoferichter5560 6 месяцев назад +2

    I really enjoyed the video. The only thing that bothered me was that you talked TO Sam and ABOUT Kaitlynn most of the time.

    • @skidude121
      @skidude121 3 месяца назад

      I noticed that as well. Though, I think that's largely because he's using Kaitlynn's technique to teach Sam. Kaitlynn has less to learn, and so needs less direct feedback.

  • @joeleesam4062
    @joeleesam4062 5 месяцев назад +2

    It's worth noting that while he is much stronger than her, power to weight ratio is more important than brute strength in rock climbing. She certainly weighs a lot less than him so she would require less strength to get herself up the wall. That's not to discount her technique, I'm just pointing out that their power to weight ratios are not nearly as contrasting as their brute strength. So, for all the short people out there, you may have to reach further for the holds but you generally have a better power-to-weight ratio so you have that going for you!

    • @carina-nonbinary
      @carina-nonbinary 5 месяцев назад +1

      However the pull-up question was about that i think. 10kg on hers and 80kg on his, so his weight to strength ratio is better than hers. On the other hand being small can help because she can get her center of gravity closer to the wall

  • @agentdarkboote
    @agentdarkboote 27 дней назад

    Would love to have had side by side comparisons!

  • @jakubj2827
    @jakubj2827 7 месяцев назад +1

    massive factor will be that Kaitlyn is probably about 50 kg, while sam is probably about 80kg or so. 30kg or so of extra weight on a slab are much harder to cancel out with upper body strength as slaps dont per say require that much anywyas. when it comes to overhangs as long as someone is strong enough they can make up for the extra weight but slabs are more down to balance.

  • @ManuelOctavio
    @ManuelOctavio 7 месяцев назад

    So interesting!

  • @marks3440
    @marks3440 7 месяцев назад +1

    I think it would be interesting to compare both climbers’ flexibility/mobility. On the V6 it looks like Kaitlynn is able to gain a better footing by squaring her hips tighter to the wall and pointing her toe in allowing a slightly better rock over. Sam’s right hip is rotated ever so slightly into the wall. The toe points a bit more parallel to the face and his center doesn’t quite get on top of that left foot. I’m assuming Sam isn’t quite able to open his hips wide enough to reach that left hold without the rotation.

  • @dalivanwyngarden3204
    @dalivanwyngarden3204 7 месяцев назад +3

    I think it's mostly body weight limits me and I can get around it mostly with technique., I don't want to advocate eating disorders! But what I notice right now after a year of injury is, that my body weight that I gained (around 10kg) changed a lot of how I climb currently. The muscles I gain adding to this body weight and making it more difficult to actually use that strength that I had remained, so I need to focus on technic a lot rn - what I quite enjoy, cuz I used too much power and too little technique when I was on my peak strength in climbing. I'm trying to maintain that. Also all of my female friends are way lighter than me but crushing me with awesome techniques easily.

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 месяцев назад

      Just give it more time to build up your strength, most people are waaaaaaaay stronger than they need to be to climb the grades they are. No offence to Sam but his strength metrics are like V12+ already.

    • @outandabout259
      @outandabout259 7 месяцев назад

      exess body fat is a bit of a problem, I've been climbing for 9 and a half months now ant pretty much on a plateau since the middle of summer but mainly because I've been steadily gaining weight while getting an equal amount stronger. I have probably 5 to 10 kg I could lose without going too low on body fat, I'm trying to get rid of it right now but it's a bit difficult since studying takes up a lot of time I would normally use for exercise.

  • @ethandoades
    @ethandoades 7 месяцев назад +3

    super cool video - I found it really interesting as I can relate a ton to Sam - We're not exactly the same, as I'm 15 and relatively light at about 130lbs whereas he's an adult and seems to have a lot more muscle mass, but because of my weight it's really easy for me to muscle through moves versus going more slowly and technically. The footwork discussion really hit home as I've been climbing for a year to the day as of posting this and although I climb almost all the V8's (V2's in your gym) my home gym puts up I have no chance on any sort of footwork intensive problems, which I'm assuming is simply due to my lack of slab/technical climbing experience. If anybody has tips for sticking to really slopey, low-texture footholds I'd loved to hear them.

    • @gioko
      @gioko 7 месяцев назад +2

      Drop your heels low when using slopey, low textured holds rather than try to stand tall on your toe. Maximize contact!

    • @La0bouchere
      @La0bouchere 6 месяцев назад +2

      Practice finding exactly how much you can stand on them. Get on the footholds and put weight on them until you actually fall off. People with bad footwork tend to massively underestimate how much they can step on bad holds, and don't put enough weight on their legs to even get into the correct positions.

  • @mystishio
    @mystishio 7 месяцев назад

    Cool seeing the analysis after, depite being a heavier guy, with a background in powerlifting, I find my style closer to Kaitlynn, just not as good (yet, I hope). Sam is pretty damn strong though, and got good movement for a year an a half.

  • @patrickjosephrogan9714
    @patrickjosephrogan9714 7 месяцев назад

    really enjoyed this video, felt i was learning without actually being aware that I was. if that make s sense. [Paraphrasing you Louis LoL]

  • @fellowes58
    @fellowes58 7 месяцев назад +1

    Anyone else notice she has really good posture. Back is really straight while his back is slouched forward. That probably affects his ability to reach overhead and shortened his overall reach.

  • @gingobingo1567
    @gingobingo1567 7 месяцев назад +5

    Actually insane how he can hang on 20 mm with one arm after just 1 and 1/2 year of climbing. Makes it more impressive at his weight which is prob 90+

    • @fishmate5443
      @fishmate5443 7 месяцев назад

      I'd disagree. If you look at his forearms, they are so well developed. You can tell he knows what hypertrophy is. He was already halfway prepared for it when he started. What's impressive is that he has spent 18 months transfering his existing strength profile to a more climbing specific strength. It's called a bit of hard work. Achieveable by everyone. Train for 6 months, including relevant strength exercises for shoulder stability etc. and you too, will be hanging off one arm.

    • @gunnaruppstad3574
      @gunnaruppstad3574 7 месяцев назад +1

      Hanging from your fingers in a crimp or open hand is more than the muscular profile -- tendon stiffness, structural changes to pulleys and joint capsules in the fingers just to mention the trainable aspects. Then there's morphology of the fingers, their relative length to each other, their lever arms, how well aligned each individual finger is with the line of pull / wrist, elbow, shoulder i.e. good joint integrity ... he's definitely got a talent for this. I can't do 20 mm hangs on one arm, yet I climb V8-V9s inside and V7-V8 outside. Sam's hangboard results also shocked me. They're both stronger than me on the board for sure.

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 7 месяцев назад

      would assure he has great finger morphology for this and likely an amount of training history and focus if he has already been testing one arm hangs. Would at the same time assure he has limited force production of the fingers due to his relative climbing history.

    • @fishmate5443
      @fishmate5443 7 месяцев назад

      @@gunnaruppstad3574 I agree with much of what you said. However, have you put specific, focused effort into hanging 1 arm off of 20mm? He has. I would argue that whatever discipline he did prior to climbing (or still does), prepared him for climbing specific work, quite well. What will be interesting will be seeing whether his strength hampers his ability to learn technique much or not.

    • @gingobingo1567
      @gingobingo1567 7 месяцев назад

      Hypertrophy has nothing to do with fingerstrength though. Its not achievable by everyone to hang on 20 mm after 6 months, that prob 0.01% of people.@@fishmate5443

  • @n3v3r1s4
    @n3v3r1s4 7 месяцев назад

    cool comparrison

  • @peterhu7039
    @peterhu7039 7 месяцев назад +1

    very dank

  • @veryaware
    @veryaware 7 месяцев назад

    Ankle height and foot angle on the bad foot hold was a visible difference that was probably also worth highlighting.

  • @publicalways
    @publicalways 6 месяцев назад

    really like how Kaitlynn moves and solve problems.. graceful and intelligent. hope she have her own youtube channel soon.

  • @hhehdh3876
    @hhehdh3876 7 месяцев назад +8

    very interesting, Im new to bouldering i climbed maybe 6 times total and can do v3 or v4 if its mostly pure strength and not finger strength, which i have from calisthenics(front lever, one arm pull up) but i dont have any technique i use brute strength. its cool to see how one problem solution differ technique/strength

    • @dennis1802
      @dennis1802 7 месяцев назад +1

      Take care of your fingers and elbows try to climb smoothly and standing and pushing up really instead of pulling up with your fingers. It will save some injuries later on, but respect thats pretty hard for a beginner 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

    • @hhehdh3876
      @hhehdh3876 7 месяцев назад

      thanx you should have told me that before haha i did 4hr session on some v3's and well now i have inflammation ill wait two weeks and start more.. lets say not 4hr session on v3's-4's, fun sport tho@@dennis1802

  • @robk5745
    @robk5745 3 месяца назад +2

    Man her footwork is beautiful, I have lots to learn 😂

  • @andrewwebber421
    @andrewwebber421 7 месяцев назад

    I’d be interested to see Sam go back and try that first climb again and do it more like Caitlin. In particular without legs cutting loose. Plus do that last move with his leg on the higher hold so it’s not the large dynamic move. There are elements though about flexibility and also size. Sometimes moves feel really cramped and awkward for the bigger climber.
    I’m very much now trying to improve my flexibility and have better technique. As now nearly 50 I can’t rely on strength!

  • @shihp9574
    @shihp9574 6 месяцев назад

    Sick video

  • @EstudioKitchin
    @EstudioKitchin 7 месяцев назад

    you are awesome!

  • @Vqrdict
    @Vqrdict 7 месяцев назад

    V6 under a year and a half ! I've been climbing for 6 months exactly and Im currently around V4 so hopefully in another year I will be climbing V6's !

    • @Lokigh
      @Lokigh 7 месяцев назад

      For a strong male who is above average height, I believe v6 in a year in a half is quite achievable- especially on those powerful dynamic routes! I had a similar experience in which I made rapid progress to v6 in about 1.5 years but then hit a plateau for 3 years. My conclusions are that v6 is somewhat the limit grade you can achieve by pure 'climbing volume' and to progress onwards it becomes quite important to train specifically off the wall (hangboard, weighted pull-ups, etc).

    • @zacharylaschober
      @zacharylaschober 7 месяцев назад +1

      You do not need to train off the wall for moving out of v6, and climbing v6 is a broad concept, too. Passed a climber confident in true v6 in a session, the sessions need to get a little more structure, but this is all.

  • @catinabox3048
    @catinabox3048 3 месяца назад

    Kaitlynn is very strong! You may not need bodybuilder-type strength for climbing, but it requires immense finger and forearm strength, core strength, as well as the ability to do pull-ups, to be at her level. Even if she hasn't done one hand on a hangboard, but that doesn't mean she has less finger strength, because her climbing builds that same strength. Not to mention, hangboards don't seem very good at helping with pinches and slopers, which are by far the hardest (often impossible) for novice climbers. Also, let's not undermine how difficult pull-ups are, and you DO need to do a pull-up to get to their level. Many women who have been strength training for YEARS can't get a pull-up and only manage one or two after months of targeting that specific movement, and this is after many years of regular strength training. To say you don't need to be strong for climbing just because Kaitlynn can climb well is inaccurate, because she is well above the average person in terms of strength, and well above the strength threshold needed for decent climbing.

  • @joshwhitney47
    @joshwhitney47 7 месяцев назад

    Would love to see each retry some moves after reviewing the footage

  • @MoXy33
    @MoXy33 4 месяца назад

    As an avid gym goer, I'd say both are required but technique is more important, I flashed a fully overhang v3 with nice big holds purely on pulling strength first time going but can't do anything with smaller or different shaped holds yet

  • @HerbParks
    @HerbParks 7 месяцев назад

    i really love louis trousers

  • @Claudia18915
    @Claudia18915 7 месяцев назад +3

    Clicked to see Ink, v sad to see he is not there
    (still looks like an interesting video though)

    • @CatalystClimbing
      @CatalystClimbing  7 месяцев назад +6

      Next week Ink is back in the limelight!

    • @Claudia18915
      @Claudia18915 7 месяцев назад

      Yessss! Ink should always be in the limelight, like all cats!@@CatalystClimbing

  • @murroc
    @murroc 7 месяцев назад

    Something I've always wondered with those bad slab footholds is whether body weight actually matters? Intuitively because the difference in shoe size and contact area is probably only 20-30% whereas the difference in weight might be 2x it should. Would it make some footholds impossible to use because one just can't put 80-100kg on it? Especially with the tiny ones?

  • @asterixzm
    @asterixzm 7 месяцев назад

    Im like Sam, going into climbing with fast progression that demotivate my friends, could u please make video like this but in competition where technique wins with big difference? . Also endurance

  • @jonathanyes112
    @jonathanyes112 7 месяцев назад

    My friend sent me the insta application after it had ended, would’ve applied just to get Louis to coach me for a bit lol

  • @joaofarias6473
    @joaofarias6473 7 месяцев назад

    So cool 😎👌

  • @jennosaur-4
    @jennosaur-4 7 месяцев назад

    Such great climbers! How old is Kaitlynn that she's been climbing for 8 years now?

  • @danrkelly
    @danrkelly 7 месяцев назад

    Kaitlin's techers on the black one is sick.

  • @survivingzgamer
    @survivingzgamer 7 месяцев назад +1

    surely we can get a viewing table for the review segment to save their poor knees

  • @dylansmith3452
    @dylansmith3452 7 месяцев назад

    Love that the Way they sit beside lewie make him look tiny

  • @hj40
    @hj40 7 месяцев назад

    Sam is so humble and handsome! You should def do more videos with him

  • @Hampshire87
    @Hampshire87 7 месяцев назад

    The guy in glasses always reminds me of one of thos kids tv presenter, like one of the guys of CBBCs

  • @bioshocketsblorg123gamingf6
    @bioshocketsblorg123gamingf6 4 месяца назад

    As a quite powerful climber i'd say you only need a certain threshold of strenght to get each boulder and any strenght above that is pretty much a way to make up for a potential lack of technique, wich is in my opinion the major thing you shouod seek as a climber (i mean chasing technique improvement instead of grades).
    Maybe it's a biased perspective from me because i lack technique and therefore find it more impressive/important but everytime i see someone powering through moves wothout really any beta in mind it just feels odd and i have to say i'm the first one doing this everytime i can lol

  • @Fred-oz3tw
    @Fred-oz3tw 7 месяцев назад

    i would have loved to see a really technical but super dynamic climber aswell. would have fit nicely. i think you dont have to do it as kaitlynn to do the climbs efficiently. you can do them with clever use of momentum and still not too much strength

  • @graybryan9521
    @graybryan9521 7 месяцев назад

    It's more about weight and technique, which is to say strength adjusted for gravity.

  • @EversonBernardes
    @EversonBernardes 5 месяцев назад

    Kaitlynn nailed those climbs crazy gracefully.

  • @malindarayallen
    @malindarayallen 7 месяцев назад +1

    Okay, we HAVE to do a video where they trade styles, and Louis coaches them on it. This is such an informative video!🫶🏾☺️👍🏾

  • @donnyburger
    @donnyburger 7 месяцев назад

    I have 1 question - where are your trousers from?!

  • @MK_climbing
    @MK_climbing 6 месяцев назад

    Very good video indeed but, really, that v4 dyno that should be representing "powerful" boulder style, i mean... yeah kind of i guess... because there are many examples of overhanging really powerful endurance style boulders, with strong shoulder pulls, locks, underclings etc. that are not necesarilly elite level hard climbs, but just much better examples of raw power that he should be representing.

  • @em48361
    @em48361 6 месяцев назад +1

    Climbers with better technique are a lot more graceful. It's interesting

  • @telofy
    @telofy 7 месяцев назад

    “We're doing another comparison video. Last time we did this was very interesting! We compared myself to…” Ink.

  • @davidzenkert8759
    @davidzenkert8759 7 месяцев назад +2

    Was the idea of this video to help the guy get better? Don’t know if you notice this, but you refer a lot to the guy as “you” and the girl as “Caitlyn”. Was the point of the video to help the guy, by having Caitlyn as reference? It feels like you forget that she is sitting next to you?

    • @CatalystClimbing
      @CatalystClimbing  7 месяцев назад +6

      Hey! Appreciate the feedback. I think you’re right & noticed this in hindsight.
      Louis coaches Kaitlynn on a regular basis and knows her climbing weaknesses / strengths very well. However he’d only met Sam on the day of shooting, and I think in the analysis was conscious of ensuring he wasn’t favouring his regular student. I think this was just an over-correction on his part but aware of the way it comes across in the video. Louis and Kaitlynn have sessions every week so she’s very used to insights, tips, progression and critique so is not missing out!

    • @18Margaretta
      @18Margaretta 7 месяцев назад

      Exactly, especially when he talked all time personally to Sam and Kaitlynn was sitting behind his back . It looked terrible not polite, like she was a tool to show the mistakes of Sam

  • @philipmitchell7660
    @philipmitchell7660 6 месяцев назад

    That just like asking is breathing in or out nore important

  • @davidsimpson3885
    @davidsimpson3885 7 месяцев назад

    strength will only ever get you so far, especially outdoors. where technique will allow you to work a problem more to help negate the lack of strength. seen so many people new to climbing power up a v3 where the missus had a problem but with a bit of work she can do v6's where there is no way that the same people will be at that level within a year.

  • @kevedwards
    @kevedwards 7 месяцев назад +1

    I find Boulder gyms reward strength over technique a lot more nowadays anyway. Plenty of times my 10 year experienced ass has been burnt off by the new guy yarding up in rental shoes and thick socks. 😂

  • @ShyBandGeek
    @ShyBandGeek 2 месяца назад

    She is so impressive