Japanese training secrets with Tomoa & Meichi Narasaki
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
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Today's session is mind blowing to me, climbing with the strongest brothers in the world, Tomoa and Meichi Narasaki.
Also a massive thank you to Naoto for helping me out with translations when we were there.
Go give him a follow on instagram!
/ naoto13.climbing_
Timestamps:
0:00 Introduction
2:55 Why are Japanese so good at climbing?
4:20 Spray wall session
10:14 Strength or technique?
11:00 Competition boulder training
19:07 One arm pull ups and strength training
20:14 More comp bouldering
22:07 How to train fingers
22:30 Subscribe!
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FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson
I want to give huge thank you to Tomoa, Meichi and Akiyo for hosting me in their gym. If you want to help me out with that, then head over to their RUclips channel and give them a subscription.
In hindsight I wish I would've also gotten more of Akiyo in this episode, but luckily you can find more of her on their channel! All three of them were incredibly kind and fun to climb with, I'm very grateful for this session.
Also, thank you to The North Face for sponsoring this episode, if you want a chance to win the free duffle bag then here's the form ▶︎ forms.gle/bgyUhQEDACAnpBH96
Lastly, I want to give another thank you to Naoto for helping us with translations! He was a great guy, and if you want to give him a follow on instagram here it is: instagram.com/naoto13.climbing_/
You'll simply have to go back and make a video with just Akiyo! Wouldn't hear any complaints from us haha
Kudos for pointing it out Emil! It always feels a bit off when Akiyo hangs out in background while the boys do the talking - When she's actually the most successful climber in the room by such a huge margin, it's not even funny :D
@@Hopesfallout I totally agree, falls on me and how I planned the video. Would love to make a video focusing on Akiyo in the future!
Crazy how Tomoa has so much control that he can immediately do exactly what Emil is doing wrong to show him!
You should watch his videos at TAMY Climbing... you can learn a lot there.
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If I'm not wrong, Tomoa came from a gymnastics background. Really does show in the way he moves so fluidly in dynamic and co-ordi boulders!
@wsxgfhccr I’m not sure it has anything to do with his background in gymnastics. Movement patterns and proprioception related to gymnastics is tied with predictable and repeatable patterns. This is very different from climbing where there is constant variation and you need to adapt on the fly, especially for comps. For instance gymnasts usually don’t perform well on ninja warrior type obstacle courses whereas people coming from Parkour or even skating often perform better.
Hey that was also Matsura Ryo! He's part of the national setting team and was recently in Australia for a stint of 6mo setting with my local gym. Was an absolute privilege to have someone of his caliber involved in our local scene down under.
Hey which gym was this?
If I'm right in thinking it was 9D Alexandria
He was with Boulder Lab in Melb
@@RileyCrusher Wish he came to Urban Climb in Collingwood
@@RileyCrusher can i please ask when and which boulder lab please? thank you!
Speaking about anime with the Narasaki brothers... that's a climbing achievement right there
No one gonna mention how crazy it is that Tomoa was doing a triple bodyweight deadlift just to train for speed climbing?!?
Mind blowing
Right? 396 when it seems like deadlifting isn’t really part of their regular training (or only was for a short while) seems insane
Narasakis : All right, let's go lead climb now. Lowest grade set is 8b+.
Emil : _nervous chuckling_
3:10 I will now forever see Tomoa as the real life Luffy
Hooly shit, love that Tomoa is entering the colaboration circle on youtube. Congrats on this insane Colab!
No hangboard gang gets validated 😁
where tf do I buy a spraywall tho
@@ssize_t True like thats the thing. Unless you have a really good spray wall or tension board to train on, I think hangboard training is essential for fingers.
@@ssize_tyou can build one. Moon/tension/kilter boards aren't a bad replacement either.
people are all different, finger training is good for certain people for sure
Bosi does hangboard every day ;)
I can't wait to see Tomoa try Burden!!
This is so cool! What a great opportunity, stoked you got to climb with them
Thanks mate, so was I haha!
The only sport that cheers your opponents 😊
Really cool video! TAMY climbing has a very playful/encouraging mood on their channel and I feel like it was brought out in your video. Loved that you asked some non-climbing related questions and great to see the comparison between Meichi and your climbing style - feel like I learn the most in the gym that way. Keep up the videos man, they just keep getting better! (Also nice job to Cordi on the sick angles for some of the comp boulders)
Yay! Akiyo in the house! Wish we can see more of Akiyo climbing as well! Great video BTW!
Tomoa has some excellent videos on improving your dynos. I love that the dyno master married the static master. Akiyo was a major inspiration for me when I first started climbing.
Something ive noticed in japanese climbers is that they rarely belittle themselves, which is something i find very common within European and American climbers.
Yeah I think we tend to express humbleness through self-deprecation in the west, and are too quick to take talking about one's own strengths as bragging. Maybe it's not ideal, but every culture has their standards.
@@PeterTeal77 I just think that it's generally a bad habit especially in climbing, Louis Parkinson from catalyst climbing explains it really well.
@@dylansmith3452what’s the video title, out of curiosity?
@@jwalker_25 I'm not sure, he brings it up across most of his coaching episodes though.
Miss seeing Akiyo compete :(
Definitely me too!
Same! I'm glad she's enjoying her well earned retirement but damn do I miss her style in comps.
Me toooo!
Haven't even seen it but already gave it a like. Huge collab!!! Amazing video
Always crazy to see just how strong the world's best are, even compared with beasts like Emil.
Love how your channel is growing. Great work!
Such a good vibe in this video, was great to enjoy your session vicariously.
In Japanese culture, discipline is a key to their success. You can like it or not, it works.
Not for 100m sprint though
it mixes with a drive to be great as well, a desire to do and perfect the activity, that make it bearable/enjoyable for a person to grind that hard, I don't think it's all environmental/culture.
this is fire, just being in the energy you all so beautifully created together
finally my two favourite climbing channels collab! been watching both of you for a couple years now 10/10 video
It’s so cool to have them on your channel!
Good to see someone thinks the same as me and I’ve often wondered why competitors don’t use a battery vacuum rather than a brush!
Great video!
Wow, to see such great climbers in one video. What a dream it must've been to finally climb with Emil Abrahamson. These Japanese guys might be going places!
Also a 180kg deadlift for tomoas size is actually a big achievement. I am sure it was by no means a huge focus of his preparation so that goes to show the level of athlete tomoa is.
I was legitimately just smiling this entire video goddamn it so wholesome
Such a crazy facility! Puts it into perspective how strong they really are!
Tomoa, Meichi, Emil, thanks for a great video, helps a lot!
🗽 I have learned so much from Tomoa.... THANK YOU Tomoa for that. 🙏
Hi Emil! So cool that North Face is a sponsor!
tomoa saying "i am luffy" is so wholesome
3:00 Yeah One Piece! Tomoa is a man of great talent and great taste
love the way you guys hit it off!
Oh, I would love to see Tomoa try Burden of Dreams! Welcome to Finland! 🙏🏻
Having done psicobloc, it’s SO FUN. The event is a massive climber party and is some of the best fun I’ve had.
21:15 I’m so hyped when Emil stuck the landing!!!
Loved this collab!
Great video thankyou. Really cool insight into the Japanese team training.
What a great collaboration! 😍
Love the establishing shots at 0:00
Dude this tomoa is just insanely goooooddd
The way they move up the slab confidently and with momentum reminds me Johnny Dawes. They both seem really comfortable with the no-hands moves.
Amazing as always emil! Keep up the great content would love to see you in london but got work 😢
Great vid! Me and my fellow board nerds would love to see you do one on the new 2024 Moonboard
Perfect timing
Meichi is a competition BEAST right now. Super on form!
Such a great vid!🔥
See you in London!!
seems like all the high level comp climbers only train spray wall primarily. Janja also almost exclusively climbs spray wall. Seems to be the key to good technique development and finger strength!
Sick collab and also congrats on a major brand sponsorship??? That’s a huge deal!
More Akiyo pleasee !! Great video but would love to see her climb moree !
This vid came just in time for my office work🎉
Can't wait to see Tomoa on Burden of Dreams!
20:20 that's a crazy cool move!! Can't wait to replicate an easier version of it next time I'm on the spray wall.
damn, Emil, getting North face as a sponsor! sick!
Really nice video Emil!
Awesome video!
They're so weightless!
When the taller brother jumped off the Dyno boulder it's like he floated down. Super weird!
Really interesting video.
Thank you 🎉
"あ~~~ナルトじゃん?"
*Epic shirt noticed*
TAMYとコラッブがどんどん増えるほど世界の幸せも増えます
How cool is that!!!!! Maaaan let’s go
Meichi with the air blower is funny
Banging vid as always.
8:55 “is this still a warm up for you guys?”
“Mm, yes.”
“Ok good to know” 😅
Why is noone talking with Akiyo in their videos? 😭 Magnus also mostly focused on Tomoa, but Akiyo is a legend herself and deserves the attention
insane collab
really great video
such a good video!
Wow those guys ARE strong
Dude, from the title I thought you where climbing with the Stoltman brothers from Scotland. They're strongmen.
No way… when I saw this thumbnail I gasped
There’s me reading it thinking you were climbing with the Stoltman brothers🏴
perfect landing for your last try !!
A TAMY and Emil collab? My dreams are coming true, don’t pinch me ! Nice video as always :)
Would love to see Tomoa try burden of dreams
Wow a new Emil and Magnus video on the same day!
I live in Japan and B-pump Ogikubo and climbing around Tomoa, Sorato, Miho, and Ogata is always so intimidating yet so amazing to watch.
damn what a collab!
they way i believe i can do this even tho i never climbed in my life
nice!
I'd say if you climb since childhood your fingers and arms get adapted while just climbing, so apart from minor physio they can just boulder as training. People that got later in life into it, must do isolated finger and shoulder training to progress and not get injured.
Jenft is 190! Just mentioning because there isn’t many of us tall climbers around !!!
bruh. this is the first time I see akiyo climb after her retirement.
I was scared that you were going to break your shoulder for a second
I was thinking in the Raboutou when I opened the video
Yowzah! Stateside so I can't make the festival - but the music looks ace!
they must be using the coolest "brush" ever lol
Hugeeeeee letssss gooooo
Oh No 😵
The Moment all did it and you were the only one left to do.
I have to say, the north face inviting climbing influencers to join a cool climbing event and making entry free for us watchers is a pretty cool way of doing their marketing.
I have to agree! Honestly all I’ve seen from the event just looks mega, lots of lectures from athletes also as well as the comp over two days time. It just seems like a great event to me, I’m psyched to be there
@@EmilAbrahamsson too bad I can't make it. Enjoy though, and good luck!
Favorite thing about this video is they train climbing with just that…climbing. Just a metric sht ton of it😂
Love these japan guys man, they're so freaking humble for who they are.
Just curious but how come you literally do the same collbs as magnus in such a short time?
...... Wait Tomoa on Burden of dreams ?! Omg
めっちゃ楽しそう!
A great question comes to mind,how can one afford to open a gym this big and get all the holds when the comps barely pay
Sponsorships are the only way to earn money in climbing! I believe the walls were sponsored by the phone network company in Japan. Could be wrong though 😅
i love this video so muchh
3:35 What he says here is so often reflected in animes. It's like the japanese hero archetype - getting beaten down again and again, but always getting back up and fighting back even when it seems like there's no fighting chance. Which when you think about it is kinda what climbing is all about. I never really linked the two but it makes a lot of sense I think.
Now that I think about it Japanese are also very good at skateboarding. The first ever olympic gold medal was won by Yuto Horigome who's one of my favorite skater. Maybe there's something about those solo sports where it's you against yourself that works well with Japanese culture I don't know 🤷♂️
How about the Abrahamson bros. They are high in the ranking too 😀😀😀