Hello Tim, whole conversion videos has been awesome. The experience Tim you have in this field is really appreciatable . I always wait your conversion videos. Tim you are authority in this field. May God bless you with health and harmony.
Tim, I appreciate you posting what you learned about the process of converting these planes since it helps us all in the long run! I am attempting to do the same and upload what I learned converting my kits on the off chance that anyone can learn a thing or two! I have learned a lot from your videos and am now feeling confident to try putting plastic covering on my guillows! Thanks for the inspiration
@@TimMcKay56 oh, I have a follow up question! What do you recommend for detailing over the plastic covering? For example on my spitfire I’d like to add the camo as well as the black and white stripes over the mid wing and fuselage. Is it a good idea to cut out more Parklite and bond it over the base covering? Or should I instead tape it up and paint those colors on?
@@thatwontwork9046 Paint is probably the best option. Cover the model with the lighter color iron on covering (tan, in this case). The dark green should cover this OK with paint, or ecven the green iron-on covering. Monokote trim might work well for the black and white invasion stripes. Tim
Nice job with this project.Many years ago when Cannon came out with their micro radio systems I converted Guillows “ Giant Scale” Hellcat powered by a Gmark 061 . I used 4 channels. The plane flew ok but needed more power .A Norvel .074 would have been perfect. Small planes can be a blast.Keep up the videos,Cheers, Skip
He does a great job converting these models to r.c. I fly radio control models and over the years have made all the Guillows war birds , unfortunately no matter what is done to them they are to fragile and relatively unstable to fly ,all it takes is one poor landing and it’s damaged beyond repair, so goes all the time and effort, However if building is enjoyable then they are great models to build, A company called Flitest sells a Spitefire, with almost 4 foot wing space it’s foam board and takes a little skill to make but a fraction of the the time ,great looking when finished ,hand launched flies right out of your hand steady as a rock,and very surviveable .
Excellent video and great information on conversion etc I always like your videos and in these day s things like the wing servos are so cheap compared when I was doing it in 80 / 90s
Just found and subscribed to your channel thanks, long time since I've built but it's time to start again. Thinking about U- control electric ⚡. I am a current rc flyer and thought how much fun it was when I was a child... course grandkids will be the ones spinning in a circle lol 😆 this time
If you add a gyro it will be much more stable, will feel like a larger and heavier airplane. Today there are gyros integrated with the receiver,making installing it feasible. There are separate gyros from RX but the space available is restricted
Hello thank you for your videos I am just getting started in all of this. I have been trying to cut out the stabilizer and tail surfaces what is the best tool and method to be cutting through 1/16" stock so that the cuts come out clean and not jagged plus unseemngly? My exacto tools proved unwieldy. Thanks again!
Nicholas: I use a light grade (weight) of 1/16" balsa for the tail surfaces. I use an Xacto #11 blade. Buy a pack of the #11 blades, be sure to throw away older ones as they become dull. Tim
what would it be Like building one up Light weight. as in using tissue to cover and More Light weight components Like 1.5g Linear servos and a little brushed motor..?
Very nice video and beautiful aircraft, im searching a good and light model to make an Rc conversion, i need a stable model, i love the fw 190 but i dont know if it is a good option.Wich did you reccomend? Thanks!
Either the Spitfire or the FW-190 are nice models. I would lean a bit to the FW-190. Consider extending the nose a bit to help with center of gravity, as the WW2 models will come out tail heavy. Tim
I’ve got this model to build for RC conversion as well. I originally planned on running this on 3s with aileron, rudder, elevator, and retractable landing gear. I’ve got some pretty small retracts but it will increase the all up weight a decent amount. I guess I’m looking for a little more weight and it should fly at some higher speeds. How are you attaching the wing to the fuselage?
E11: Sounds like you have a plan. If your Spitfire is a bit heavier, just ensure you have a bit more power, as it will fly faster. For my model, I glued the wing on, no rubber bands, etc. I figured it was a light enough plane to have minimal damage during landings. Tim
I live in AK and therefore have plenty of water around to launch from (sometimes easier to fly off water than land). Have you considered the Guillow’s Nakajima A6M2-N “RUFE” (kit# 507). Wondering if you think it would be possible to make this floatplane fly off water?
Chris: The Guillow 500 series kits are very small models, the Rufe being 16.5 inches. It would be quite a challenge to get this smaller size to fly with RC . . . I have enough problems with the 28 inch wing span models. Also, while the Rufe looks great, with that large centerline float, I am not sure it would ever take off from water, due to constant goune (water?) loops with the wing tip floats. Better to stick with a flying boat of the normal twin floats. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you for the insight! I did think more about initial stability issues with the single float. I agree; might be better worth the time to stick to two floats!
7 ounces? That is really good, I am making the Guillows No 405 P40 kit, I believe that the Guillows kits are easy to convert to RC kits, the wood is light and strong, and you can reinforce some areas with the scrap balsa, by the way, how much does your brushless motor weigh? I think my 49 gr motor is heavy :/
Neftali: The quality of the balsa wood on the laser cut kits is a lot better than the older die cut kits. A lot better. Suppo motor weights 13 grams, see Spitfire description on details. Tim
Hi Tim. Thank you for your videos. Question? Used exact same electronic set up you used for spitfire and zero models, since balsa plane I’m building is about same weight. When set all up to transmitter , servos work, but motor just sputters? Replaced motor with same motor and still same? All works but motor not spin. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some fine tuning I have to do with my nx transmitter and castle esc? Any info would be appreciated and helpful. Thank you
George: Motor is a simple brushed motor, should work. Sounds like a problem somewhere in the ESC portion of the brick. Maybe return to be repaired or replaced. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 You mentioned it briefly as you were giving your pre build overview for the spitfire. Discussion of the difficult cardboard fairings included. And then you mentioned a foam board treatment.
@@TimMcKay56 This winter I have had My first building experiences Began with the guillows models. Enjoying it. But your videos have been an immeasurable aid. Thank you
Anyone know if people have tried fully sheeting these with 1/32nd or 1/64 for RC with success? I would love something a little more scale that flew half way decent.
David: Yes, folks have used lightweight balsa to sheet these models. Should be a good approach, plus with the use of airbrush paint. Google Bob Benjamin Guillow models, he did some great articles in the past. Tim
Hi Tim, I just bought 4 servos now I get from the internet is I've been had. The servos I have are Tower Pro MG90s. I learned that their counter fit and are really bad. I guess I should have known by the price. I got an ESC, a motor, and 4 servos for less than 29 dollars. The Hi-Techs are 13 dollars each. I guess you get what you pay for ;(
David: Yes, there are a lot of scams out there for inexpensive RC gear. As a general rule, I buy all my stuff from either Horizon Hobby or StevensAero.com. If I see the same thing on Amazon (say, a Hitec HS40 servo), I can purchase from there. And for certain, do not get a cheap lipo battery, as they could start a fire. Tim
Bob: Roger that on the aileron throw. I did not have enough on the Zero, vowed to fix that with the Spitfire. Took out some throw on the transmitter, handles a lot better now. Tim
These conversions are awesome, thank you for sharing them, Tim. I’m working on converting the Piper Cherokee and your videos have been very helpful
Juan: Best of luck with the Cherokee . . . keep as light as possible! Tim
Very nice! It’s so nice that Guillows is still around.
😊👍🏻 Tim
Hello Tim, whole conversion videos has been awesome. The experience Tim you have in this field is really appreciatable . I always wait your conversion videos. Tim you are authority in this field. May God bless you with health and harmony.
MM: Many thanks! Tim
Tim, I appreciate you posting what you learned about the process of converting these planes since it helps us all in the long run! I am attempting to do the same and upload what I learned converting my kits on the off chance that anyone can learn a thing or two! I have learned a lot from your videos and am now feeling confident to try putting plastic covering on my guillows! Thanks for the inspiration
TWW: Thanks so much for checking in and best of luck with your RC conversions! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 oh, I have a follow up question! What do you recommend for detailing over the plastic covering? For example on my spitfire I’d like to add the camo as well as the black and white stripes over the mid wing and fuselage. Is it a good idea to cut out more Parklite and bond it over the base covering? Or should I instead tape it up and paint those colors on?
@@thatwontwork9046 Paint is probably the best option. Cover the model with the lighter color iron on covering (tan, in this case). The dark green should cover this OK with paint, or ecven the green iron-on covering. Monokote trim might work well for the black and white invasion stripes. Tim
Thank you so much! Great job!
Glad it was helpful! Tim
Congrats on another successful Guillow’s conversion! Enjoyed the video 😁
FSM: Many thanks! Tim
Your Chanel is grate your really helping with converting the guillows kits
PB: Thanks for checking in! Tim
Great video, thanks!
😊👍🏻 Tim
Nice job with this project.Many years ago when Cannon came out with their micro radio systems I converted Guillows “ Giant Scale” Hellcat powered by a Gmark 061 . I used 4 channels. The plane flew ok but needed more power .A Norvel .074 would have been perfect. Small planes can be a blast.Keep up the videos,Cheers, Skip
Skip: Thanks for the recap, more videos to follow! The newer RC electronics and motors really help.
Regards, Tim
Thank you for sharing your experience in these conversions. All very interesting and your thoughts are good points for other conversions!
DC: Thanks for watching! Tim
Realistic superstructure wood build. The colour is mat Olive originally for camouflage purposes. A fond memory for the Spitfire. Thanks.
Brian: Thanks for checking in! Had to use a brown lite iron-onn covering, all I could find on the internet. Olive Drag for next version! Tim
BEAUTIFUL! What a great job!
Phil: Glad you like it! Tim
I've built a few of their free flights over the years, but never thought to convert them for r/c use. May be a future project with my boys.
Mykal: Thanks for checking in and best of luck! Tim
Really nice, Tim. I appreciate your thorough explanations.
Steve: Appreciate it! Tim
He does a great job converting these models to r.c. I fly radio control models and over the years have made all the Guillows war birds , unfortunately no matter what is done to them they are to fragile and relatively unstable to fly ,all it takes is one poor landing and it’s damaged beyond repair, so goes all the time and effort, However if building is enjoyable then they are great models to build, A company called Flitest sells a Spitefire, with almost 4 foot wing space it’s foam board and takes a little skill to make but a fraction of the the time ,great looking when finished ,hand launched flies right out of your hand steady as a rock,and very surviveable .
Vito: Fully agree with Guillows analysis, and Flite Test does make some very nice models. Tim
Excellent video and great information on conversion etc I always like your videos and in these day s things like the wing servos are so cheap compared when I was doing it in 80 / 90s
Robert: Yes, the cost of the RC components is incredibly low. Nice time to be flying! Tim
Just found and subscribed to your channel thanks, long time since I've built but it's time to start again. Thinking about U- control electric ⚡. I am a current rc flyer and thought how much fun it was when I was a child... course grandkids will be the ones spinning in a circle lol 😆 this time
GH: Thanks for checking in, and welcome back to the hobby! Tim
Really enjoy these Guillows builds you do Tim.
Davide: Many thanks! Tim
If you add a gyro it will be much more stable, will feel like a larger and heavier airplane. Today there are gyros integrated with the receiver,making installing it feasible. There are separate gyros from RX but the space available is restricted
Great points, thanks! Tim
Muito bom.
👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Thanks! Tim
Guillows should have a Mosquito kit. "Wooden Wonder" ,similar size to the P38 Lighting. And a Lancaster for dam busting.
Tim: Works for me! Tim
Look like it worked out well for the electric conversion. Not sure about all the popsikle motor mounting. I think I missed the hing system used.
I used clear Scotch tape for the hinges, works great. Tim
I have a question....won't mounting the servos under the wing cause the to strip when you belly land her??
Very good point. I do not think the servos will strip, but not the best servo location. Servo on the wing upper surface may be a better place. Tim
Hello thank you for your videos I am just getting started in all of this. I have been trying to cut out the stabilizer and tail surfaces what is the best tool and method to be cutting through 1/16" stock so that the cuts come out clean and not jagged plus unseemngly? My exacto tools proved unwieldy. Thanks again!
Nicholas: I use a light grade (weight) of 1/16" balsa for the tail surfaces. I use an Xacto #11 blade. Buy a pack of the #11 blades, be sure to throw away older ones as they become dull. Tim
what would it be Like building one up Light weight. as in using tissue to cover and More Light weight components Like 1.5g Linear servos and a little brushed motor..?
MG: This is a good approach, but you will have to keep the weight as low as possible. Tim
Very nice video and beautiful aircraft, im searching a good and light model to make an Rc conversion, i need a stable model, i love the fw 190 but i dont know if it is a good option.Wich did you reccomend? Thanks!
Either the Spitfire or the FW-190 are nice models. I would lean a bit to the FW-190. Consider extending the nose a bit to help with center of gravity, as the WW2 models will come out tail heavy. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks!
I’ve got this model to build for RC conversion as well. I originally planned on running this on 3s with aileron, rudder, elevator, and retractable landing gear. I’ve got some pretty small retracts but it will increase the all up weight a decent amount. I guess I’m looking for a little more weight and it should fly at some higher speeds. How are you attaching the wing to the fuselage?
E11: Sounds like you have a plan. If your Spitfire is a bit heavier, just ensure you have a bit more power, as it will fly faster. For my model, I glued the wing on, no rubber bands, etc. I figured it was a light enough plane to have minimal damage during landings. Tim
I live in AK and therefore have plenty of water around to launch from (sometimes easier to fly off water than land). Have you considered the Guillow’s Nakajima A6M2-N “RUFE” (kit# 507). Wondering if you think it would be possible to make this floatplane fly off water?
Chris: The Guillow 500 series kits are very small models, the Rufe being 16.5 inches. It would be quite a challenge to get this smaller size to fly with RC . . . I have enough problems with the 28 inch wing span models. Also, while the Rufe looks great, with that large centerline float, I am not sure it would ever take off from water, due to constant goune (water?) loops with the wing tip floats. Better to stick with a flying boat of the normal twin floats. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you for the insight! I did think more about initial stability issues with the single float. I agree; might be better worth the time to stick to two floats!
@@christophercastaneda917 Good luck! Tim
7 ounces? That is really good, I am making the Guillows No 405 P40 kit, I believe that the Guillows kits are easy to convert to RC kits, the wood is light and strong, and you can reinforce some areas with the scrap balsa, by the way, how much does your brushless motor weigh? I think my 49 gr motor is heavy :/
Neftali: The quality of the balsa wood on the laser cut kits is a lot better than the older die cut kits. A lot better. Suppo motor weights 13 grams, see Spitfire description on details. Tim
Hi Tim. Thank you for your videos. Question? Used exact same electronic set up you used for spitfire and zero models, since balsa plane I’m building is about same weight. When set all up to transmitter , servos work, but motor just sputters? Replaced motor with same motor and still same? All works but motor not spin. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some fine tuning I have to do with my nx transmitter and castle esc? Any info would be appreciated and helpful. Thank you
George: Motor is a simple brushed motor, should work. Sounds like a problem somewhere in the ESC portion of the brick. Maybe return to be repaired or replaced. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thank you , Tim. Motor is brushless: Suppo motor you used
No brick. Regular rc set up
Sounds like a loose wire perhaps in the motor. Tim
Hello, Tim... could you specify which electronics are used in the Guillows models and mainly where to buy them? Thanks (Walter from Brazil)
Walter: Oops, I forgot to add this to the Spitfire description. Info now posted there. Tim
Thanks a lot!
Tim,
As always a great build. can you show video / pictures of the plan you mention for foam wing fairing?
thank you!! keep them coming
John: Not sure ref the foam wing fairing, will check. Tim
@@TimMcKay56
You mentioned it briefly as you were giving your pre build overview for the spitfire. Discussion of the difficult cardboard fairings included. And then you mentioned a foam board treatment.
@@TimMcKay56
This winter I have had My first building experiences Began with the guillows models. Enjoying it. But your videos have been an immeasurable aid.
Thank you
Anyone know if people have tried fully sheeting these with 1/32nd or 1/64 for RC with success? I would love something a little more scale that flew half way decent.
David: Yes, folks have used lightweight balsa to sheet these models. Should be a good approach, plus with the use of airbrush paint. Google Bob Benjamin Guillow models, he did some great articles in the past. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you Tim, your video just convinced me to pick up a kit. Bob's work is incredible thank you for the tip.
@@davidkenyon5444 Good luck! Tim
Hi Tim, I just bought 4 servos now I get from the internet is I've been had. The servos I have are Tower Pro MG90s. I learned that their counter fit and are really bad. I guess I should have known by the price. I got an ESC, a motor, and 4 servos for less than 29 dollars. The Hi-Techs are 13 dollars each. I guess you get what you pay for ;(
David: Yes, there are a lot of scams out there for inexpensive RC gear. As a general rule, I buy all my stuff from either Horizon Hobby or StevensAero.com. If I see the same thing on Amazon (say, a Hitec HS40 servo), I can purchase from there. And for certain, do not get a cheap lipo battery, as they could start a fire. Tim
Needs more power for a low-wing application.
Jaden: More power always better! Tim
Looks a little tail heavy and too much aileron movement to me. Good job though.
Bob: Roger that on the aileron throw. I did not have enough on the Zero, vowed to fix that with the Spitfire. Took out some throw on the transmitter, handles a lot better now. Tim
It's underpowered and tail heavy
Yup. Just experimenting with the WW2 fighters. Tim
😂 theres nothing wrong with our Brit designs.
👍🏻😊 Tim