I can totally understand and connect with your disappointment when you expressed your desire to share the experience of building your own plane with your grandkids and being able to see the fruits of your labor pay off and fly thru the sky. I've been trying to with pretty much the same results, get my stepson into the hobby of rc planes by starting him on these Guillows balsa rubber band planes and converting them to rc with micro/UMX components readily available to give him a better understanding and appreciation of aerodynamics and accomplishment in the end. He's got a 500 series F6F Hellcat frame done and ready for elections and final covering/paint and decals but that's going on 5 months now with no interest in completing (disappointing) can't really complain as he spends his time working and going to college. I acquired my love for aircraft and building them from my Papa and would build them also with my dad (his son) although I realize now that he mostly did it for me. I did call him up recently with this collection of kits I have and with a more than enthusiastic quick response has taken me up on my offer to come visit for a few days and build some planes with him and convert them to rc and fly around the pasture out behind his house. Your intentions really resonated with me and would encurage you to keep trying with the grandkids as I'm sure it will be appreciated in the future, thanks for the video and opportunity to take up a bit of your comments space. Great work and hopefully you're not a therapist and I won't recieve a bill in the mail after this 😀.
Sanding the back of those ‘die crushed’ parts makes them lighter and they fall from the sheet quite easily and cleaner edges. Great looking static model.
Nice job! It would be easer to use wax paper to help with the glue from sticking to the plans. Using those toothpicks like that might cause your plane to be out of tolerance. I use a nice flat surface tape the plans down with the wax paper over the top. That keeps everything nice and flat.
I also like to use the plastic wrap and go over the plans and then flip them over and do the other side and then let it it stick to itself. After building I pull it off and put the plans in a file box for a later build or replacement part reference in the case of a crash.
If you are going for a static display model, albeit a pretty big one, these Guillows kits are fine as a starting point. Their scale outlines are good, not perfect, but likely good enough for anything short of a major contest. As with most kits of his kind, they all need lots of scale detailing, etc. to look very good, but they do give you a very good foundation to work with. Now, as for flying, if you have ever seen a fine-looking scale WWI airplane flying free flight or R/C, and it flew very well, I’d bet plenty that it wasn’t from a Guillows kit. Unless they are completely redesigned, most of the wood replaced with much thinner and lighter contest balsa, every part lightened, and much more, like new airfoils, etc., kits like this Camel will never, I mean never fly with any authority at anything close to scale speed, or with the grace and majesty that these old bipes should engender. In other words, build it directly, unmodified from the kit materials, and if you possess good covering and painting skills, you’ll have an alright display model at best, a large, unwieldy one. You'll need quite a big shelf for it. You can take all of the above as gospel. It comes from many, many years of experience with Guillows kits of all kinds. Yes, there may be an exception or two (the larger F-6-F “Hellcat” has enough wing to fly a little better than the others), but by and large, this is the way it is.
Hi mate. Paul from London. Try tracing paper/grease proof paper over your plans. A good wood glue, carefully added to each end.. Sewing pins to hold to plan. If you use cocktail sticks as levellers your frame will be wonky. WTH Paul
Nice job! Tip: Spray mist water on the tissue and when it dries it will be tight as a drum and actually gives the entire structure more rigidity and looks great. 👍
Very good for a first attempt with a complicated kit. I was given one of these recently. A few hints if it’s going to fly well free flight. It will need nose weight to fly properly. The centre of gravity balance point is very important. The leading edges should be rounded, as in other comments. A bit more dihedral is really necessary for stable flight. Water shrink the tissue after attaching. Prit stick is good but dope where it’s attached also. Celluloid film is best to protect the plan but waxed paper works well. The balsa in my kit is poor as is the die cutting. Try a laser cut kit next time and a model with more dihedral. Thanks for making the video. A lot better result than most first attempts including mine!
Thank you for the comments, I am relatively new at this and find that I learn more every time I build a new model, and wish I had done something a little bit differently each time.
Did alot of extra work to mine movable ailerons put on real wheels and a made leather seat from old wallet put screws on the cowling aslo other things will not fly it did to much work on it just hangs on ceiling
Is there somewhere that a person can buy scale model display replacement/upgrade parts for this 1/12 kit? It's a really beautiful display model and I've always wanted to replace the plastic parts. It'd be really nice to be able to make a convincing engine someway!
Following your Sopwith Camel build with great interest as I am constructing very same kit. Your build has helped me to overcome several problems as this is my first balsa/ tissue build . One prob I cannot get to grips with is where on the build does the plastic part( number P12) fit within the build .? Very impressed with your build skills. Hope you can give me some guidance. Best wishes Chris
@@designandbuildguy42:53 Thanks for replying to my build question of the Sopwith Camel. The plastic part No P12 I can best describe as looking like a football goal framework with one vertical leg shorter than the other. Also on its entire build are a series of raised v shaped letters Overall length is 9 1/4 inches. Hope this gives you some guidance. Many thanks Chris
Bruce. Re Plastic part p12 Have sussed out what this part is apparently it is meant to replicate stitching and is to be attached to the right hand side of the fuselage only so iam slowly progressing on this my first build. Perhaps you could enlighten me as to what is classed as the right hand side .Is it the r/h side if you were sitting in the cockpit as per pilot or is it looking head on at the prop 0:41 Many thanks for all your guidance . Best wishes. Chris.
Nice! I too, use wax paper on the plan... and I use a magnetic board... I keep the parts in place with magnets... it’s easy, precise and don’t need to pin down balsa that may cause it to break... good job anyway
I need to build my free flight rubber motor assembly, I must have. Lost it. The plane is completely assembled . Using it as display only. But I figured why not make it flyable to some extent.
Guillows models are tops, you made a nice job but you forgot some important steps like full livery with correct colours and decals. Also you missed sanding both leading and trailing edges of wing. These details are very important.
More power to ya. Guillows kits were the worst wood, flimsy stuff. But they are still here…I build from scratch, old plans good wood
Thank you for this video… enable me to decide to buy and start this project…
I can totally understand and connect with your disappointment when you expressed your desire to share the experience of building your own plane with your grandkids and being able to see the fruits of your labor pay off and fly thru the sky. I've been trying to with pretty much the same results, get my stepson into the hobby of rc planes by starting him on these Guillows balsa rubber band planes and converting them to rc with micro/UMX components readily available to give him a better understanding and appreciation of aerodynamics and accomplishment in the end. He's got a 500 series F6F Hellcat frame done and ready for elections and final covering/paint and decals but that's going on 5 months now with no interest in completing (disappointing) can't really complain as he spends his time working and going to college. I acquired my love for aircraft and building them from my Papa and would build them also with my dad (his son) although I realize now that he mostly did it for me. I did call him up recently with this collection of kits I have and with a more than enthusiastic quick response has taken me up on my offer to come visit for a few days and build some planes with him and convert them to rc and fly around the pasture out behind his house. Your intentions really resonated with me and would encurage you to keep trying with the grandkids as I'm sure it will be appreciated in the future, thanks for the video and opportunity to take up a bit of your comments space. Great work and hopefully you're not a therapist and I won't recieve a bill in the mail after this 😀.
Sanding the back of those ‘die crushed’ parts makes them lighter and they fall from the sheet quite easily and cleaner edges. Great looking static model.
Thank you !
great idea !
Nice job! It would be easer to use wax paper to help with the glue from sticking to the plans. Using those toothpicks like that might cause your plane to be out of tolerance. I use a nice flat surface tape the plans down with the wax paper over the top. That keeps everything nice and flat.
It has built in washout to prevent tip stalling hence the raised trailing edge with tooth picks.
I also like to use the plastic wrap and go over the plans and then flip them over and do the other side and then let it it stick to itself. After building I pull it off and put the plans in a file box for a later build or replacement part reference in the case of a crash.
Just finished this kit. I made it for display so it is heavy but I'm thinking about rubber power.
If you are going for a static display model, albeit a pretty big one, these Guillows kits are fine as a starting point. Their scale outlines are good, not perfect, but likely good enough for anything short of a major contest. As with most kits of his kind, they all need lots of scale detailing, etc. to look very good, but they do give you a very good foundation to work with.
Now, as for flying, if you have ever seen a fine-looking scale WWI airplane flying free flight or R/C, and it flew very well, I’d bet plenty that it wasn’t from a Guillows kit. Unless they are completely redesigned, most of the wood replaced with much thinner and lighter contest balsa, every part lightened, and much more, like new airfoils, etc., kits like this Camel will never, I mean never fly with any authority at anything close to scale speed, or with the grace and majesty that these old bipes should engender.
In other words, build it directly, unmodified from the kit materials, and if you possess good covering and painting skills, you’ll have an alright display model at best, a large, unwieldy one. You'll need quite a big shelf for it.
You can take all of the above as gospel. It comes from many, many years of experience with Guillows kits of all kinds. Yes, there may be an exception or two (the larger F-6-F “Hellcat” has enough wing to fly a little better than the others), but by and large, this is the way it is.
Hi mate. Paul from London. Try tracing paper/grease proof paper over your plans. A good wood glue, carefully added to each end.. Sewing pins to hold to plan. If you use cocktail sticks as levellers your frame will be wonky. WTH Paul
thanks for the advice !!
@@designandbuildguy you can also try to rub some soap on the plan, it works as well and it is much cheaper... are you going to make it fly ? :)
nice job!!!
I built that very kit . It turned out great .
yes, loved building it !
Nice job! Tip: Spray mist water on the tissue and when it dries it will be tight as a drum and actually gives the entire structure more rigidity and looks great. 👍
that is an idea I have recently used, works well, thanks for the comment !
Love building my self I built a camel to my was 60in wing span I think you will injoy monticoting to have fun 👍
Very good for a first attempt with a complicated kit. I was given one of these recently. A few hints if it’s going to fly well free flight. It will need nose weight to fly properly. The centre of gravity balance point is very important. The leading edges should be rounded, as in other comments. A bit more dihedral is really necessary for stable flight. Water shrink the tissue after attaching. Prit stick is good but dope where it’s attached also. Celluloid film is best to protect the plan but waxed paper works well. The balsa in my kit is poor as is the die cutting. Try a laser cut kit next time and a model with more dihedral.
Thanks for making the video. A lot better result than most first attempts including mine!
Thank you for the comments, I am relatively new at this and find that I learn more every time I build a new model, and wish I had done something a little bit differently each time.
Beutifully made
It seems like a difficult model
Love the old style kits
"ALE-EH-RON"
..pass the Dramamine!
Missed glue used for fixing plastic parts would be grateful for advice
Did alot of extra work to mine movable ailerons put on real wheels and a made leather seat from old wallet put screws on the cowling aslo other things will not fly it did to much work on it just hangs on ceiling
Is there somewhere that a person can buy scale model display replacement/upgrade parts for this 1/12 kit? It's a really beautiful display model and I've always wanted to replace the plastic parts. It'd be really nice to be able to make a convincing engine someway!
Take your time
Following your Sopwith Camel build with great interest as I am constructing very same kit. Your build has helped me to overcome several problems as this is my first balsa/ tissue build . One prob I cannot get to grips with is where on the build does the plastic part( number P12) fit within the build .? Very impressed with your build skills. Hope you can give me some guidance. Best wishes Chris
sorry, but I do not remember that particular piece ? . . . can you better describe the item ?
@@designandbuildguy42:53 Thanks for replying to my build question of the Sopwith Camel. The plastic part No P12 I can best describe as looking like a football goal framework with one vertical leg shorter than the other. Also on its entire build are a series of raised v shaped letters
Overall length is 9 1/4 inches. Hope this gives you some guidance. Many thanks Chris
Sorry I am stumped with that ? @@chrishickman1589 maybe a picture would help (bruceacarlson@yahoo.com)
Bruce. Re Plastic part p12 Have sussed out what this part is apparently it is meant to replicate stitching and is to be attached to the right hand side of the fuselage only so iam slowly progressing on this my first build. Perhaps you could enlighten me as to what is classed as the right hand side .Is it the r/h side if you were sitting in the cockpit as per pilot or is it looking head on at the prop
0:41 Many thanks for all your guidance . Best wishes. Chris.
Nice! I too, use wax paper on the plan... and I use a magnetic board... I keep the parts in place with magnets... it’s easy, precise and don’t need to pin down balsa that may cause it to break... good job anyway
I have been building for years and magnets never occurred to me. Great idea ! I will try that!
a really good idea Oreste... thanks!
and i use the magnet system also and its soooo much better
wet tthe tissue paper with drops of water to stretch the tissue paper, and when dry give it a coat of dope to strenth the paper
I need to build my free flight rubber motor assembly, I must have.
Lost it. The plane is completely assembled . Using it as display only. But I figured why not make it flyable to some extent.
Hola saludos desde Argentina quisiera saber si también tenes algún video del armado del straman p17 de guillows desde ya muchas gracias
have not done that one yet . . . will keep u posted
A Guillows sopwith is not an easy starter kit. Be patient, make sure the wings are straight. There are other kits from Guillows there are much easier.
It is aGuillow’s Sopwith Camel 801 Kit
Guillows models are tops, you made a nice job but you forgot some important steps like full livery with correct colours and decals. Also you missed sanding both leading and trailing edges of wing. These details are very important.
was one of my first attempts at balsa projects, appreciate your constructive comments
only thing i see is you didn't shape the leading edge of the wings, but looks great otherwise.
Thanks !
Use wax paper
Why toothpicks under the workpiece?
they support the material while gluing, keeps the balsa from sticking to the plastic sheeting
@@designandbuildguy That's why I use wax paper . Problem solved ! LOL !!! :-D
You have to have a special set of skills to biild bulsa. I can do ships fine but im nothing on planes.
Total opposite for me, balsa easy, boats not
thats one cool airplane. checkout my video of my trixter beam build. getting ready to start a bellanca cruisemaster!
Man, I just find it hard to believe what Im seeing! You don't even sand your frames before you glue-stik the tissue to the frame? Wow! Laramie!
Yeah, me being a noobee at this type of stuff neglect some of the details