You're welcome. I've been having fun making these videos. I've learned a lot but still need to improve my editing and camera skills. Thanks for watching. It's comments like yours that keep me going!
My dad used blades like that for shaving, Wilkinson Sword I believe they were. I would “ borrow” them to cut my silkspan, back in the day. Of course he would cover one edge with masking tape, so I wouldn’t cut my ten year old fingers. Hard to believe that was almost sixty years ago
Yes Paul, very sharp. The Gillette Blue Blades are considered some of the best. Carbon Steel. I was fortunate enough to get a bunch from my grandmother's house years ago used by my grandfather. I found another bunch when I remodeled the bathroom in our current house. The medicine cabinet had a slot to dispose of your blades. They would fall into the wall! There must have been 100 of them at the bottom of that wall when we demo-ed it! 😂
Hi John!: Great covering video! Nothing beats a safety razor blade for trimming tissue! When I was a kid, I filched Dad's used ones to build models with! I also liked them for cutting curved parts in balsa, by bending the blade into the required curve and pushing the blade straight down, kind of like die cutting. I never taped them, but never seemed to cut myself with them either! Maybe I was just lucky!
Thank you Jeffery. Love the idea of bending the razor blade. Might have to give that a try! An interesting, creative approach. As you mention, a good sharp razor is certainly an important tool in the shop. Thanks for watching.
A few weeks back, my wife and I were looking through a craft store and ran across these watercolor pens. It's like a paintbrush with a removable well behind it for water. you could mix your glue/dope and put the solution into one of these pens and it'll just dispense while you brush. Like 5$ US for a pack of 3 in the big box store and 9$ for a pack of 4 at a craft store. If you have trouble finding them, let me know.
Great stuff John. I never seem to get a straight edge trimming the LE/TE overlap like that. I lay it flat on cutting board and trim using steel ruler before final fold over
That's why this video is titled "a slightly different approach" 😁 I've used the process you describe for 50 years, but first, this model was finished with Kylon not dope. I find gluing to each rib reduces the chances of warping during the shrink since you have individual panels rather than the power of one big panel shrinking. The Mt Fuji tissue has a pretty strong pull. It also doesn't work really good with dope as an adhesive. With Esaki on a smaller model, I would likely follow your process but on a recent project, I used my video process but didn't glue every rib and had great results. This process allows the wing to be flat on the bench when the tissue is first applied providing a perfectly flat wing. Whatever works best for you. Thanks for watching.
@Watchingthevideos99 Yes, but my flying days here in Virginia, U.S.A. are getting killed. I wish I lived in another state that is Model airplane friendly.
There are 24 model airplane clubs within 100 miles of Lynchberg according to the AMA. And several FAC clubs within the state according to the FAC website.
thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You're welcome. I've been having fun making these videos. I've learned a lot but still need to improve my editing and camera skills. Thanks for watching. It's comments like yours that keep me going!
That's a very controllable method John, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Cliff. Thanks for watching.
Well I have to say I enjoyed watching that. Great patience and skill.
Thanks for the kind comment and thanks for watching!.
I've flown RC for 40 years and I still fly but something about Free flight models that's very relaxing..
I also have been doing some RC building and flying for some time but still always turn back to free flight building and flying. Agree, very relaxing.
John, you are a craftsman!
Thank you.
My dad used blades like that for shaving, Wilkinson Sword I believe they were. I would “ borrow” them to cut my silkspan, back in the day. Of course he would cover one edge with masking tape, so I wouldn’t cut my ten year old fingers. Hard to believe that was almost sixty years ago
Yes Paul, very sharp. The Gillette Blue Blades are considered some of the best. Carbon Steel. I was fortunate enough to get a bunch from my grandmother's house years ago used by my grandfather. I found another bunch when I remodeled the bathroom in our current house. The medicine cabinet had a slot to dispose of your blades. They would fall into the wall! There must have been 100 of them at the bottom of that wall when we demo-ed it! 😂
It was about 70 years ago for me. I can still remember the fragrance of balsa, dope, and cement.
Hi John!: Great covering video! Nothing beats a safety razor blade for trimming tissue! When I was a kid, I filched Dad's used ones to build models with! I also liked them for cutting curved parts in balsa, by bending the blade into the required curve and pushing the blade straight down, kind of like die cutting. I never taped them, but never seemed to cut myself with them either! Maybe I was just lucky!
Thank you Jeffery. Love the idea of bending the razor blade. Might have to give that a try! An interesting, creative approach. As you mention, a good sharp razor is certainly an important tool in the shop. Thanks for watching.
A beautiful, calming, and helpful video.
A few weeks back, my wife and I were looking through a craft store and ran across these watercolor pens. It's like a paintbrush with a removable well behind it for water. you could mix your glue/dope and put the solution into one of these pens and it'll just dispense while you brush.
Like 5$ US for a pack of 3 in the big box store and 9$ for a pack of 4 at a craft store.
If you have trouble finding them, let me know.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check them out. I've been using acrylic paint pens recently, but they are not refillable. Thanks for watching.
Great stuff John. I never seem to get a straight edge trimming the LE/TE overlap like that. I lay it flat on cutting board and trim using steel ruler before final fold over
always good John, thank you
Thanks for watching!
John, why glue each rib? If you do the perimeter, shrink and dope, the dope will attach the tissue to each rib.
That's why this video is titled "a slightly different approach" 😁 I've used the process you describe for 50 years, but first, this model was finished with Kylon not dope. I find gluing to each rib reduces the chances of warping during the shrink since you have individual panels rather than the power of one big panel shrinking. The Mt Fuji tissue has a pretty strong pull. It also doesn't work really good with dope as an adhesive. With Esaki on a smaller model, I would likely follow your process but on a recent project, I used my video process but didn't glue every rib and had great results. This process allows the wing to be flat on the bench when the tissue is first applied providing a perfectly flat wing. Whatever works best for you. Thanks for watching.
Looks like a very useful method. Can I ask what you thin the Elmers glue with?
It's just water. The Elmer's Clear is water-based. It's quite light once dry. Thanks for watching.
very nice as always john !
Thank you Phil
Learn'in stuff, John!
Excellent Richard. Then my video is serving its purpose!
@Watchingthevideos99 Yes, but my flying days here in Virginia, U.S.A. are getting killed. I wish I lived in another state that is Model airplane friendly.
There are 24 model airplane clubs within 100 miles of Lynchberg according to the AMA. And several FAC clubs within the state according to the FAC website.