Hi Mark. I've been using this method for well over 30 years. After I put the doculam on the wing I wash it off with white vinegar, seems to lightly etch the surface to give the poly something to grip to. I cover with silkspan. I stop the doculam at the last rib and cover the wing tips with silkspan to get those really nice tips. I paint all of my planes and haven't had a failure yet. I fly control line, so those planes take somewhat of a beating. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for explaining this interesting technique. I was always afraid that the covering on the upper surface would be wrinkled, but you explained it in such a way so that I might be able to do it with a minimum of wrinkles!
This technique is Awesome. Im scratch building a Fokker DR1 and an ocean brease. Todays shiny srink coverings just wont do. Thanks for your clear and complete instruction.
That was absolutely brilliant Mark. This is definitely the answer to litespan. My favourite covering has always been tissue, and I will definitely be giving this a go. Take care. Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment, really pleased you like the technique, its a really nice way to cover vintage style with strength, I really enjoy it - have a great day 😀
His is what I purchased, same seller and product www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Great to hear you are excited about the technique, any issues with the link let me know, and of course any questions about the process please ask, happy to help
Hi Mark fantastic video my mate and i are into old timers and two of them are tissue covered, because we hand launch punching holes in the tissue is common, we are currently building two 73 inch kerswaps all these materials are available in australia just with different brand names will be giving this a go thankyou for sharing this info and happy landings
That's a great demo Mark, I've used clingfilm in the past ... same result but a lot more fiddly, you have to stick it on with pva as well. I love this material, I was interested to see you varnish the tissue while it's still wet but then being a waterbased product it's not a problem. Now I'm wondering if I should tissue by 90in Mercury 👍
Hi Cliff, thanks for the comment, its really appreciated, pleased you like the video/ technique, it is a joy to do, so easy to get good results and very strong, would be good for a larger model, being just as strong as traditional covering film.
Cliff, you can get different weights of Doculam, so you could get a heavier film if you thought what Mark used may be too light for your 90" model. But also, you could use heavy weight tissue instead of the light Esaki tissue. If there is a local business that laminates documents, you can ask them for an "end" of a roll, so you don't necessarily have to get 150m of film. But you do have to wait for them to get to that point - and remember you. Equally, for my first Doculam job, I just asked the local business for 2m off their roll - it was a small model. 😀 Obviously I paid WAY more per metre than for a full roll, but even so it was still much cheaper than commercial covering film and I didn't have a big investment in what was perhaps not the weight I wanted "long term".
@@RichardTapp1 Hi Richard, thanks for your comment, I have looked into heavyweight tissue and I see that thicker doculam is available. In fact there's a shop within 5 miles of me that sells it, and compared to iron on, film it's pretty cheap. Initially I've only seen white heavyweight tissue available which means I will probably have to paint the model which will add weight of course.
Hi Mark, Similar to you, I use an initial covering of polyester fleece 21g/m² and then paper with 21g/m², which I stick on with wallpaper paste, and finally water-based parquet varnish. Unfortunately, I can't say how much the whole thing weighs in the end, but it is absolute unbreakable. What surprised me is the final weight of your system at 120g/m². Best regards, Radu
I never saw this method before and it seems to work really well. I might give it a go at some point in the future. There is a nice Astro Viking, sitting in my loft and catching dust. The Original tissue and dope covering has become very brittle in the last 26 Years since i built it. Back then it had a brushed electric motor with a 2:1 planetary gear and it was using an 8 cell NiCad battery. Could do with an upgrade as well 😅
Hi Mark, thank you for these very detailed and instructing videos. I just discovered this covering technique and I am willing to test it on one model. The tissue finish is really interesting combined with the strength of the doculam film underneath. I was wondering about the global strength of this technique compared to a oratex covering method. Do you feel this gives more resistance to the balsa structure or would it be similar ? Thanks again for your videos !
You're very welcome, pleased you enjoyed the video. Oratex is certainly a stronger covering, but for smaller vintage models I think this technique is more fitting
Thank you, pleased you enjoyed the videos. Yes, the laminating film makes a huge difference, so much tougher, well worth doing, making it much more resilient 😀
Good morning Marc, French, my English is by googletranslation :-) Also a model maker, mainly replicas of old gliders... but also some creations that fly well :-) Thank you for this video ! very interesting as a technique ! I'm starting with a few tests, but I bought film that was too thick (75u) thinking that it was going to be more resistant... but it's more difficult to stretch it correctly and make some wrinkles disappear ! the retraction is less strong… I'll see if I can swap with 38u... Some questions : • no need to varnish the balsa before putting on the plastic film ? • for Japanese paper, do you just spray water ? In the end, it seems to hold up well... the paper isn't peeling off? even after the varnish coat ? I was thinking of perhaps deglazing the plastic film with fine sandpaper... but the varnish may "melt" the plastic film a little for good adhesion... I will continue my tests ; thank you for your answers :-)
Hi thank you for the comment. No, I do not varnish the wood, just sand smooth I spray thw tissue with just water, than when in position apply polyurathane No peeling, it sticks very well Do not need to deglaze, it sticks very well without Good luck with your tests, hope they go well
@MarkRobinson555 Ok, thank you very much for your message ! I will continue your technique ; no reason why it shouldn't work since you succeeded perfectly... and I'm the meticulous and tenacious guy ! so i return to my workshop 🙂
@@MarkRobinson555 thanks ! I finished the empennage; with the first paper I had (12 g, too thin, no hold... like cigarette paper), some creases are there... But with Michael's new paper, it's impeccable ! It's tight, no bubbles or wrinkles, a silky surface... I'm happy ! Thanks again for this technique ! I think 2 coats of varnish will be good for better strength... without adding too much weight 🙂
A very fine video Mark as always. Can water based varnish resist glow fuel with 10-15% nitro in it? I plan to build a Junior 60, my third, and to cover it with doculam and tissue. It will be powered by an Enya 15 R/C which I was given so I plan to keep things light.
Thanks for the comment, it's appreciated, pleased you like the technique. Neither the laminating film or the polyurethane cause a huge amount of shrinkage, certainly not like dope or covering film, so distortion is not a big issue. However as the laminating film does not shrink a huge amount it does mean you have to put it on relatively wrinkle free if you can.
Thank you for the kind compliment, now storage, that is definitely an ongoing issue, I do have some fairly efficient racking, but always having to reorganise! Will have to do a storage video sometime.
Hi Mark, and hello from Florida in the USA. First off great video and just when you thought you have seen it all! I went to the UK website you posted for EBay to see if I could get some particulars and match up the doculam to a similar product state side. I couldn’t find 38 micron just Mil thickness. Is there any way you might have a look at our state side doculam and tell me what you might recommend in thickness also in width per roll. Or should I just get the thinnest film I can buy. Any and help for your cousins across the pond would be greatly appreciated. Once again wonderful video I learned something new. Cheers…….Stan.
HI Stan, thanks very much for the kind email, greatly appreciated. I am fairly sure that the 38 micron laminating film is 1.5 mil. Just looked on ebay.com and this is what they seem to be selling in the US. Hope that helps. Good luck with the covering.
Hi Mark Thank you for your reply after sending you my question I thought about it some and thought there must be a conversion formula, there is! 38 microns divided by 25.4 =1.49 mile. I guess the manufacturer rounded up to 1.5 so we have an answer. Thank you for your reply I am looking forward to trying this technique soon I’ll let you know how it goes. Best of luck building and flying. Stan.
Great Video Mark. I’m guessing you must apply the varnish before the tissue dries from the water spray? I didn’t and my tissue keeps lifting off the doculam structure. Also how long do you wait between each varnish quote.
Yes you do, just blot the tissue to remove the excess water and then varnish. I usually do the second coat when I have finished the whole structure so its more uniform looking. If adding trim I would wait about 4 hrs. Pleased you found the video helpful 😀
Thanks very much, pleased you like it. If you are using glow it would be wise to do a final coat in something different to the polyurathane I use, but if you are using a different product always wise to test it first.
One other comment Mark. You quote the total weight of the finished tissue over doculam covering as 120 grammes per square metre. Are you sure that's correct? Solartex, a much heavier covering weighs between 85 and 98gsm depending upon colour.
Hola Mark, felicitaciones por el excelente video sobre el uso de esta lamina. Quisiera saber si puedes dar el contacto del proveedor, donde comprar esta doculam de 38/42 micron
Thank you very much for your comment, greatly appreciated, pleased you liked the video. Her is a link to what I use www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Its very similar to normal heat shrink film, obviously different films vary, and I dint know about Oralite, but certainly looks a lot nicer than film when on a vintage model
I wonder - don't you need to scuff a little the surface of the doculam for better adhesion of the tissue / varnish ? Say a little bit of scuffing 0000 steel wool ? Yes / No ? Opinion ?
Hi Mark Will other types of laminating film work, or does it have to be doculam which i can't get in N Z . I can get a 36 inch 25 micron 500 meter film for $ 100. if that works it would be very cheap. thanks john.
Hi Mark, we met at Old Warden and had a chat about this technique. I tried it last night on a tail and found it warped. Is there a trick to minimise this? Ma y thanks, j
Hi James, I am supprised to hear that it warped, must be quite a delicate structure. If you twist the structure to get it flat, then heat to remove the wrinkles and hence straightening it, it should be fine. Did you use the 38 micron doculam?
Hi Mark, I have used 38mic doculam by itself on a couple of small models and tissue over 38mic on a Junior 60. I am building a Lanzo Record breaker, 96" open ribs no sheeting. Do you think using 75mic doculam and tissue may be better than 38mic on this larger wing?
I have never used, or seen the 75 micron film, so would not like to comment, If it was me I would use the 38 micron and cover it in silk, would be so much stronger and appropiate for a larger model.
@@MarkRobinson555 Thanks Mark. I did try modelling silk over film on the J60 but found I just could not get the silk around sharp corners. Gave up in the end and used tea bag paper which looks like tissue but stronger and goes on very easily. Just finished the wing center section, it's big. Trying to keep the plane as light as possible I think I will try the tea bag paper again over 38mic laminating film.
@@MarkRobinson555 I truly loved your video and I will give it a shot on my next free flight vintage model. This is very crafty and I am an excellent craftsman myself so I will enjoy this very much. Thank you for posting this video.
Hahaha, well spotted, yes I do plan to build it, there are a couple of other (Vintage) things in the pipeline first, so may be a little while, but it is a great set of plans and should be an interesting build
His is what I purchased, same seller and product www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thank you, and I also want to thank my friend BINGFENG ZHANG for sharing with me. I have already shared and produced more than ten aircraft models, including the large PO-2 wingspan 2.2M biplane trainer CCCP, with my RC friends in China
Hi Mark. I've been using this method for well over 30 years. After I put the doculam on the wing I wash it off with white vinegar, seems to lightly etch the surface to give the poly something to grip to. I cover with silkspan. I stop the doculam at the last rib and cover the wing tips with silkspan to get those really nice tips. I paint all of my planes and haven't had a failure yet. I fly control line, so those planes take somewhat of a beating. Thanks for the video.
Hi Rick, thanks for the comment and information, its good to hear your experience, thank you very much.
Thank you for explaining this interesting technique. I was always afraid that the covering on the upper surface would be wrinkled, but you explained it in such a way so that I might be able to do it with a minimum of wrinkles!
Pleased you found the video helpful, appreciate the comment, good luck with your covering 😀
Hi Mark! Excellent presentation , very clear and useful. I will use on my next model. Many thanks for your outstanding job!! 😀
Glad it was helpful, and really appreciate your kind comment, thank you 😀
This technique is Awesome. Im scratch building a Fokker DR1 and an ocean brease. Todays shiny srink coverings just wont do. Thanks for your clear and complete instruction.
Excellent, really pleased you liked the video 😀 thanks for the comment
Thanks for the Demonstration,--Im building an "Old-Timer"-free-flight,-and this technique will be "Brilliant"-Thanks !!
Glad it was helpful!, appreciate your comment 😀
Brilliant video as always Mark. Very interesting and highly enjoyable viewing. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks very much for the comment 😀
Beautiful and patient work
Thank you very much, pleased you enjoyed it
Thanks!
Thank you very much, very kind and appreciated
That was absolutely brilliant Mark. This is definitely the answer to litespan. My favourite covering has always been tissue, and I will definitely be giving this a go. Take care. Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment, really pleased you like the technique, its a really nice way to cover vintage style with strength, I really enjoy it - have a great day 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 as a PS. Where did you get the Doculam ? I will buy some today. Today's video has really got me fired up.
His is what I purchased, same seller and product www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Great to hear you are excited about the technique, any issues with the link let me know, and of course any questions about the process please ask, happy to help
Oh, and you can get the Doculam in wider rolls if you have a bigger model 😀
Thank you ole chap! You have inspired me.
Hahaha, excellent, pleased to hear, have a great day
Great work. Very useful tutorial. Thanks
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment
Will absolutely try this. Looks really good. Nice work and tutorial 👏
Excellent, glad you enjoyed it, thank for letting me know 😀
Hi Mark fantastic video my mate and i are into old timers and two of them are tissue covered, because we hand launch punching holes in the tissue is common, we are currently building two 73 inch kerswaps all these materials are available in australia just with different brand names will be giving this a go thankyou for sharing this info and happy landings
Thank you very much for the comment, really pleased you found the video helpful 😀
This is amazing!! 😃 Thank you for this really helpful and informative video
Glad it was helpful, really appreciate the comment
Best of both worlds!.
That's a great demo Mark, I've used clingfilm in the past ... same result but a lot more fiddly, you have to stick it on with pva as well. I love this material, I was interested to see you varnish the tissue while it's still wet but then being a waterbased product it's not a problem. Now I'm wondering if I should tissue by 90in Mercury 👍
Hi Cliff, thanks for the comment, its really appreciated, pleased you like the video/ technique, it is a joy to do, so easy to get good results and very strong, would be good for a larger model, being just as strong as traditional covering film.
Cliff, you can get different weights of Doculam, so you could get a heavier film if you thought what Mark used may be too light for your 90" model.
But also, you could use heavy weight tissue instead of the light Esaki tissue.
If there is a local business that laminates documents, you can ask them for an "end" of a roll, so you don't necessarily have to get 150m of film. But you do have to wait for them to get to that point - and remember you.
Equally, for my first Doculam job, I just asked the local business for 2m off their roll - it was a small model. 😀 Obviously I paid WAY more per metre than for a full roll, but even so it was still much cheaper than commercial covering film and I didn't have a big investment in what was perhaps not the weight I wanted "long term".
@@RichardTapp1 Hi Richard, thanks for your comment, I have looked into heavyweight tissue and I see that thicker doculam is available. In fact there's a shop within 5 miles of me that sells it, and compared to iron on, film it's pretty cheap. Initially I've only seen white heavyweight tissue available which means I will probably have to paint the model which will add weight of course.
Great video, very informative
Thanks very much, pleased it helped 😀
Hi Mark,
Similar to you, I use an initial covering of polyester fleece 21g/m² and then paper with 21g/m², which I stick on with wallpaper paste, and finally water-based parquet varnish. Unfortunately, I can't say how much the whole thing weighs in the end, but it is absolute unbreakable. What surprised me is the final weight of your system at 120g/m². Best regards, Radu
Thanks for the comment, its appreciated 😀
Great video Mark, something I keep meaning to try
Thank you for the kind comment, its a great technique, you should definitely try it, it is very rewarding to do 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 Just ordered a roll of the stuff :) thanks for the motivation
Hahaha, excellent, if you have any questions just drop me a message, happy to help if I can
I never saw this method before and it seems to work really well. I might give it a go at some point in the future. There is a nice Astro Viking, sitting in my loft and catching dust. The Original tissue and dope covering has become very brittle in the last 26 Years since i built it. Back then it had a brushed electric motor with a 2:1 planetary gear and it was using an 8 cell NiCad battery. Could do with an upgrade as well 😅
Sounds a great project, this would be a great covering for it, thanks for the comment
Hi Mark, thank you for these very detailed and instructing videos. I just discovered this covering technique and I am willing to test it on one model. The tissue finish is really interesting combined with the strength of the doculam film underneath. I was wondering about the global strength of this technique compared to a oratex covering method. Do you feel this gives more resistance to the balsa structure or would it be similar ? Thanks again for your videos !
You're very welcome, pleased you enjoyed the video. Oratex is certainly a stronger covering, but for smaller vintage models I think this technique is more fitting
Thanks @@MarkRobinson555 !
Good afternoon, the videos are very illustrative but I have a question, once adhered to the balsa wood it can come off. Thank you. Desde España.
Pleased you found the videos useful, the covering will be quite secure on the plane, but can be easily stripped off if you want to recover it. 😀
Mark, many thanks for your support to the modeling community. Does doculam add any puncture resistance?
Thank you, pleased you enjoyed the videos. Yes, the laminating film makes a huge difference, so much tougher, well worth doing, making it much more resilient 😀
Good morning Marc,
French, my English is by googletranslation :-)
Also a model maker, mainly replicas of old gliders... but also some creations that fly well :-)
Thank you for this video ! very interesting as a technique !
I'm starting with a few tests, but I bought film that was too thick (75u) thinking that it was going to be more resistant... but it's more difficult to stretch it correctly and make some wrinkles disappear ! the retraction is less strong…
I'll see if I can swap with 38u...
Some questions :
• no need to varnish the balsa before putting on the plastic film ?
• for Japanese paper, do you just spray water ?
In the end, it seems to hold up well... the paper isn't peeling off? even after the varnish coat ?
I was thinking of perhaps deglazing the plastic film with fine sandpaper... but the varnish may "melt" the plastic film a little for good adhesion...
I will continue my tests ; thank you for your answers :-)
Hi thank you for the comment.
No, I do not varnish the wood, just sand smooth
I spray thw tissue with just water, than when in position apply polyurathane
No peeling, it sticks very well
Do not need to deglaze, it sticks very well without
Good luck with your tests, hope they go well
@MarkRobinson555 Ok, thank you very much for your message ! I will continue your technique ; no reason why it shouldn't work since you succeeded perfectly... and I'm the meticulous and tenacious guy ! so i return to my workshop 🙂
Hope it goes well
@@MarkRobinson555 thanks !
I finished the empennage; with the first paper I had (12 g, too thin, no hold... like cigarette paper), some creases are there...
But with Michael's new paper, it's impeccable !
It's tight, no bubbles or wrinkles, a silky surface... I'm happy !
Thanks again for this technique !
I think 2 coats of varnish will be good for better strength... without adding too much weight 🙂
@@sebastianmendoza3026 excellent, pleased it's working well, thanks for letting me know
Perfect for a keil Kraft gypsy I'm just finishing - I have a tin of Polycrylic, I guess that will work just as well?
Yes, would be great on the Gypsy, I would suggest you test the Polycrylic first, I am not familiar with this product so can't advise, sorry
Interesting process must think of a suitable project to have a play.
A very fine video Mark as always.
Can water based varnish resist glow fuel with 10-15% nitro in it? I plan to build a Junior 60, my third, and to cover it with doculam and tissue. It will be powered by an Enya 15 R/C which I was given so I plan to keep things light.
The polyurethane I use is certainly good for 12% nitro glow fuel, diesel and petrol, thank you for the comment 😀 pleased you liked the video
@@MarkRobinson555hi may i ask what is the brand of the polyurethane that you are using? thank you.
Hi Mark, wonderful technique!
How do you handle the tensions that could twist open structures like these?!
Thanks for the comment, it's appreciated, pleased you like the technique. Neither the laminating film or the polyurethane cause a huge amount of shrinkage, certainly not like dope or covering film, so distortion is not a big issue. However as the laminating film does not shrink a huge amount it does mean you have to put it on relatively wrinkle free if you can.
Neat process. I will give it a go one day!
Excellent, pleased you enjoyed it 😀
Mark you build a lot of wonderful models….where do you store them all?!?
Thank you for the kind compliment, now storage, that is definitely an ongoing issue, I do have some fairly efficient racking, but always having to reorganise! Will have to do a storage video sometime.
Hi Mark, and hello from Florida in the USA. First off great video and just when you thought you have seen it all!
I went to the UK website you posted for EBay to see if I could get some particulars and match up the doculam to a similar product state side. I couldn’t find 38 micron just Mil thickness. Is there any way you might have a look at our state side doculam and tell me what you might recommend in thickness also in width per roll. Or should I just get the thinnest film I can buy. Any and help for your cousins across the pond would be greatly appreciated.
Once again wonderful video I learned something new.
Cheers…….Stan.
HI Stan, thanks very much for the kind email, greatly appreciated. I am fairly sure that the 38 micron laminating film is 1.5 mil. Just looked on ebay.com and this is what they seem to be selling in the US. Hope that helps. Good luck with the covering.
Hi Mark
Thank you for your reply after sending you my question I thought about it some and thought there must be a conversion formula, there is!
38 microns divided by 25.4 =1.49 mile. I guess the manufacturer rounded up to 1.5 so we have an answer.
Thank you for your reply I am looking forward to trying this technique soon I’ll let you know how it goes.
Best of luck building and flying.
Stan.
@@1toastandjam1 Hi Stan, thanks for the reply, good luck with your covering, looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Great Video Mark. I’m guessing you must apply the varnish before the tissue dries from the water spray? I didn’t and my tissue keeps lifting off the doculam structure. Also how long do you wait between each varnish quote.
Yes you do, just blot the tissue to remove the excess water and then varnish. I usually do the second coat when I have finished the whole structure so its more uniform looking. If adding trim I would wait about 4 hrs. Pleased you found the video helpful 😀
Very good, would a 25 micron doculam work? Thanks from Spain.
Thank you, I would think so, but I have never tried it. Won't be as strong as the 38, but don't see why not.
@@MarkRobinson555
Thank you very kind.
I will keep you informed.
It is an English translation.
Beautiful job Mark! Is this covering method glow fuel proof? Grettings from Argentina
Thanks very much, pleased you like it. If you are using glow it would be wise to do a final coat in something different to the polyurathane I use, but if you are using a different product always wise to test it first.
@@MarkRobinson555 thanks. I Will test that. Best regards!
One other comment Mark. You quote the total weight of the finished tissue over doculam covering as 120 grammes per square metre. Are you sure that's correct? Solartex, a much heavier covering weighs between 85 and 98gsm depending upon colour.
Hi, thank you for the comment, I will have to go and check over mu calculations again 😀
Hola Mark, felicitaciones por el excelente video sobre el uso de esta lamina. Quisiera saber si puedes dar el contacto del proveedor, donde comprar esta doculam de 38/42 micron
Thank you very much for your comment, greatly appreciated, pleased you liked the video. Her is a link to what I use www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
How puncture resistant and durable in general every day use is it as compared with ordinary iron on film or lighter variants such as Oralite?
Its very similar to normal heat shrink film, obviously different films vary, and I dint know about Oralite, but certainly looks a lot nicer than film when on a vintage model
I wonder - don't you need to scuff a little the surface of the doculam for better adhesion of the tissue / varnish ? Say a little bit of scuffing 0000 steel wool ? Yes / No ? Opinion ?
No not needed, it sticks really well with he polyurathan
Hi Mark Will other types of laminating film work, or does it have to be doculam which i can't get in N Z . I can get a 36 inch 25 micron 500 meter film for $ 100. if that works it would be very cheap. thanks john.
Hi John, yes any type of laminating film should work fine, I only ever use 38 micron Hope it goes well 😀
Hi Mark, we met at Old Warden and had a chat about this technique. I tried it last night on a tail and found it warped. Is there a trick to minimise this? Ma y thanks, j
Hi James, I am supprised to hear that it warped, must be quite a delicate structure. If you twist the structure to get it flat, then heat to remove the wrinkles and hence straightening it, it should be fine. Did you use the 38 micron doculam?
Hi Mark, I have used 38mic doculam by itself on a couple of small models and tissue over 38mic on a Junior 60.
I am building a Lanzo Record breaker, 96" open ribs no sheeting. Do you think using 75mic doculam and tissue may be better than 38mic on this larger wing?
I have never used, or seen the 75 micron film, so would not like to comment, If it was me I would use the 38 micron and cover it in silk, would be so much stronger and appropiate for a larger model.
@@MarkRobinson555 Thanks Mark. I did try modelling silk over film on the J60 but found I just could not get the silk around sharp corners. Gave up in the end and used tea bag paper which looks like tissue but stronger and goes on very easily. Just finished the wing center section, it's big. Trying to keep the plane as light as possible I think I will try the tea bag paper again over 38mic laminating film.
Good luck with the covering
At what temperature do we set the covering iron to apply the doculam ?
Around 115degC when sticking it down and 140-200degC when shrinking
@@MarkRobinson555 I truly loved your video and I will give it a shot on my next free flight vintage model. This is very crafty and I am an excellent craftsman myself so I will enjoy this very much. Thank you for posting this video.
Thank you very much for the kind comment, greatly appreciated 😀
Will you be building the Gladiator on the wall?
Hahaha, well spotted, yes I do plan to build it, there are a couple of other (Vintage) things in the pipeline first, so may be a little while, but it is a great set of plans and should be an interesting build
Hi, where did you get the Doculam from and what brand of polyurethane did you use please. ps is it fuel proof.
Got the film from ebay, details of the polyurethane is in the video. Its petrol and diesel proof
@@MarkRobinson555 Is it Glow fuel proof as well?
I wouldn't trust it with Glow, there are better products to use I think
@@MarkRobinson555 Cheers mate.
hy Mark ! could you maybe tell me where to get the doculam
His is what I purchased, same seller and product www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FDdqUo8qRCC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fsKLYgcjQ86&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@MarkRobinson555 thanks ! brilliant modells you make !
Thank you very much, thats very kind of you to say so 😀
Mantap sir
Thank you very much
used to put dope on paper to cover. But still can smell the odor now, they did not tell me to ventilate well...lol
感谢您 也要感谢我的朋友BINGFENG ZHANG 小Q分享给我 我已经给我国的RC朋友分享和制作了十几架飞机模型 包括大型PO-2翼展2.2M双翼教练机CCCP😍😍😍
Thank you, and I also want to thank my friend BINGFENG ZHANG for sharing with me. I have already shared and produced more than ten aircraft models, including the large PO-2 wingspan 2.2M biplane trainer CCCP, with my RC friends in China