Thanks for the tips! I am definitely impressed by the packaging of this glue company. My next glue order is definitely this product. When i get glue on my fingers I just use debonder, it works great.
Take the old tip and put it in a jar of acetone, that will clean it up and you can get several uses out of each tip. I use a small glass jar and tweezers to get them out. Works for the precision tips also, not always perfect, but it works.
Another tip, when you finish laying down your glue, aim the bottle away from everything and give it a squeeze - forcing out any glue left in the tip. Additionally, when you set the bottle down, tap it firmly against your work surface a couple of times to help move any residual CA away from the opening. LikePphil said below, I also remove the fine tips and soak them in acetone.
I guess I'm just old because I'm still using Elmers Glue for my models. No smell, no BS. And my models haven't fallen apart yet. And I'm not concerned about stabbing myself to death with push pins. Currently working on a Guillows Space Shuttle. I couldn't make it all the way through your video because I think you've been sniffing too much of that glue you're using. I think you're all in too big of a hurry to get it done. I always thought that model building was about the trip, not the destination. If I wanted to get it done that fast I would just pay someone to make it for me. That "Beaver Nation" shirt says it all.
The beauty is: you have many ways to carry out how you do things with this hobby. I know a lot of people that don’t use CA, and prefer use Elmer’s or wood glue and pins. So more power to ya my friend!!!!! Hope you build your shuttle straight and it flies right. Which rhymes with Oregon State!!! Fight fight fight.
Am just getting back into aero modelling and wanted to understand how to use the CA tips, as I'm building an indoor electric model. It's going to be the smallest Rc plane I've built. Great video really helpful.
That's awesome, thank you so much! I used to use pva but it took a very long time to dry and it got me bored building balsa kits. But after seeing this video, I fancy buying a balsa kit! Also you deserved a subscriber from me!
Thank you for your tips. I do sheeting similar to you, but instead of CA everywhere, I put the CA at each forward edge and on the spars. But on the ribs I use wood glue. The CA virtually pins the sheeting in place and clamps down on the curved portions of the ribs. I try not to do it in as much free space as you do in this example, as I wiggle things too much and they end up twisted or in some way out of shape if I do not.
I have done that myself. I hate pinning the sheeting down to the rib. So hard to tell if it is flat, solid against it or if the pin has backed out. At least CA ing it down to the front and back it may pull the sheeting tight the entire span.
I have had a few friends that have had issues, becoming allergic to CA. Between that and sawdust, building has some hazards. I am working on a project with Starbond glue company right now and will be looking at their odorless thin CA. Maybe that would be a solution for you.
wonderful. you make it look easy . I'm at the same stage on my first ever balsa build. at the age of 65 and recovering from a stroke decided to build some planes . and I'm at the glue stage but worried it's going to go pear shaped! not sure if I can get this glue over here in England. I seem to have a mixture of glues, Gorilla, UHU, and some others maybe I'll get this and learn to use it well . thanks for your effort I'm building an outlaw by Keil craft 2foot span 600mm in New money. love that you are covering in balsa, think you have just convinced me to do the same. love peace and respect from Suffolk , England.
I’m pretty sure you should be able to find CA glue in England. Maybe not the brand I had in the video but surely a brand of it. Thin and medium are of the most use for me. Thin is an instant set with balsa and medium gives you some time to move the parts before it sets. You can find CAs on Amazon (probably in England as well) at better prices than a hardware store. Hope you can find it. Be careful with the fumes. If they get in your face it will sting your nose and eyes. Good ventilation.
I have been busy working on a Flying King wing today and using the method of laying down the thick CA on the ribs and gunning the sheeting with accelerator to quickly set down each piece of sheeting. Really speeds up the process with no bracing or clamping.
I much prefer Deluxe Materials “superphatic” glue, it takes a little bit longer to set, but I’ve tested it for strength against thin and medium CA and it creates a much stronger bond!
I have used Superphatic to join together sheeting sections and it does fine job as you said with a little more time to cure. I have never tried it on general construction of building because of the set time, and I believe the phatic being thin as water is actually water based. So while you are waiting for it to dry, it might warp the wood a little if it is a thin piece or lightweight and porous. Ive had to apply weights to drying pieces of sheeting while they dried so they didn’t swell up. Seems like it is a super watered down while glue.
@@Capgains7777 Dan, it’s an aliphatic resin, and comparing it to a watered down wood glue is like calling medium and thick CA dried out thin CA😁 I’ve used it for years on wood to wood joints, it causes no warpage or swelling and dries stronger than a CA joint. It’s my go to glue for well fitting joints (it has zero strength as a gap filler), sheeting,cap strips etc. I use CA sparingly these days due to a developed allergy to the stuff, it has its place (especially for repairs) but in all honesty super phatic is a superior glue for most wood to wood joints.
@@Smokeyr67 It may be better, but if CA is doing the job, better with a longer cure time doesn't really do anything for me. Some times good enough is all that is required.
@@shelbyseelbach9568 good for you, as long as what your doing works for you then that’s great! As I said, superphatic does the job for me, without the fumes but with a longer cure time.
@@Smokeyr67 "Good for you." What are you, twelve? LOL. What a pathetic way to start a comment. Always amazing when people are willing to put forth their own opinions and experiences, yet act like a child when others respectfully do the same. No one said you were wrong, just a different opinion. People do have them, you know. Hilarious.
Certainly CA speeds up the build but there are some drawbacks like sanding over CA or a bead were you have to lay in something like webbing something to consider and mention.
CA (siano crill 8). Hahaha. And sanding are not one of its better performances. The stuff is so much harder than the balsa that sanding tends to take the balsa down so much faster than the CA it will erode the balsa on each side of a bead. The best way I have found to sand down a bump like that is to use a grit like 60 or 80 and rasp it lightly. Big grit will tear the glue down faster but use it carefully.
I would actually consider wearing a Huskies shirt. We have a saying in our house; Every weekend during any sport’s season we cheer for two teams. The Beavers and whoever is playing the Ducks. I still have an Auburn sweatshirt from some years ago. 😊
CA glue reacts with different materials. I used sawdust and CA for wood filler. This combination generates a lot of heat. I actually watched this mixture catch fire. Be careful! Also sanding wood that has CA glue on it will burn the inside of your nose, mouth and eyes if you are breathing the fumes in a confined and non ventilated space. Despite all that I still think CA glue is the best.
I have never got it to ignite but always suspected it could. I can't tell you the number of times I have had my fingers too close to CA I have hit with accelerator.... it freeking hurts!!!!
Maybe I'm over thinking but in regards to the bowed leading edge. It seems to me you would want to attach the leading edge as a convex piece vs a concave piece, i.e. bow facing out. The reason being, if you attach a concave piece to the end ribs first, when you push the leading edge onto the remaining ribs, you are going to push the outer ribs out of alignment.
Just found your channel just subscribed brilliant, will watch it later with the sound on, love your use of the CA adhesives. My daughter got me a spitfire kit for Christmas am making a right dogs dinner of it so far, last model I made was fifty years ago, a glider with a six foot wingspan. Am loving getting back into modelling but patience is being tested PVA takes too long to set and I was putting the CA straight on from the bottle, now diluting CA with acetone , and getting better results, got the activator on a small spray bottle and things are working better. What do you call the small blocks you use to hold the spars in position, you probably say in your video, am going to watch it again with the sound on. I really want to get back into modding, semi retired now, patience being tested I just need pointing in the right direction, when I made my glider it was 1972 I was 23, no internet just bought the kit, In those days you cut all the spars by hand, loved it. Fifty years on ,wife,happy home,kids life, work, and now I want to get back to modelling, will watch more of your videos but any pointers will be taken on board and appreciated. Many thanks for posting your videos Lawrence Ogden Gloucestershire UK
Hello Lawrence, sorry I just spotted this today. For some reason it is hard for me to find a way to see comments consistently. Anyway, yes, I try to spew out many tips as I build. So turn up that sound. There are many old modelers out there that have secrets, and I think that there is no use for those when others need help to get started. If you have past building experience with building which involved cutting an entire kit, then you are well prepared for building from plans. And luckily there are lots of them out there to fit almost any of type of aircraft you seek. I refer to Aerofred.com often as a site for free plans. You have to register which is free as well but it gives you access to many downloadable files you can take to a print shop to get plans. CA is a great glue for building. I didn’t know that acetone can be used as a thinner for it. But if that works go for it. I prefer to buy thin CA which is more like water in viscosity and have medium CA for use with accelerator. I use latch magnets, often used on cupboard doors for holding the parts to the table. Currently I have a metal door for laying the plans on but you can lay a piece of sheet metal (20+ gauge) on any workbench top as long as it’s big enough for the aircraft being built for the same effectiveness. I will be making a video with more depth for building with magnets. If you look in the description for any of my videos there is an Amazon link where you can purchase and/see the dimensions of the magnets. Carry on, retirement is a great time to take up building something you have always wanted to build.
very informative video. I like the sawdust thing. what I'm wondering is where did you get those little magnets and what type of work surface are you using? t.y.
I want to look into that... someone that is a woodworking hobbyist mentioned that glue the other day. Being in this hobby makes us kind of adhesive geeks. (We really stick together...Hahaha). Anyway, I will be seeking some out to see what its good for. What we have available in adhesives seems to keep growing and it's wonderful to see the advances in technology.
I tried to use titebond for wing sheeting before and all I got was a warped wing. I like Dan's method. If not Dan's method, I'd go get a handful of straight pins and a big tube of Sigment. It will accomplish the same thing but you'll have to wait longer.
Wait, you don’t have a bread slicer on your work bench? What, do you live under a rock? Don’t tell me you don’t have a crockpot on your bench either? Just kidding I’m full of old guy sayings.
@@lifuranph.d.9440 brittle doesn’t really come into play on balsa wood because it soaks into the wood so well and fuses the fibers. Most of the joints in the airframe don’t need flexibility so brittle isn’t an issue. There are some places I don’t use CA because it is a joint that needs to be flexible such as firewalls, and landing gear plates. Recently however I bought a bottle of medium viscosity glue from Starbond that says it is a flexible formula. We’ll see I guess.
I'm building a wing for a 40 size Great Planes Cap 232 from the mid 90s..I bought two fuselages from an estate sale.. Both had a flown but, neither had a wing.. I've been having some fun getting a wing going.. I may only build this one wing and swap it back and forth.. I'll just have to cover it in a neutral combo.. I enjoy your videos.. Good stuff dude.. Are you up in Oregon?, Or on the west coast?
Yes and Yes. We live in the Cascades of southern Oregon. So west coast and Oregon. Its funny, Everyone seems to have a fuse or a wing laying around waiting for a new one of the other to be made. So do you intend to gear up both fuses, or restore one plane and keep the second fuse in case you need to rebuild again? That’s quite a conundrum you have going there.
After 30 years or so of using CA with no issues I finally developed a horrible allergy to it, so bad I had to stop using it for anything but situations where nothing else will do. With a 3m respirator I bought from an automotive paint supply store I can use CA, but it sucks to wear the mask. Moral of the story.... listen to DAN, limit your exposure by opening a window and maybe use a fan, because you CAN run out of tolerance to CA and that really sucks.
I have had several friends that have become allergic to it. Including a fingernail technician. But they are exposed to many other chemicals as well so, what a cocktail. Ventilate and airflow I think are your best avoidance tools.
amzn.to/3BYTS2B Its called a low ferrite magnetic fastener. I have this link available in the description on almost every video I have made. Its the number 1 question I get.
I’m pretty sure it is available there because I first learned of it from a guitar builder that lives in Ontario. Hope you have a great project coming up.
So true. I try and mention in my videos to have ventilation and even a fan that blows across your work table. Keep those fumes away from your nose and eyes and vent out your shop on occasion.
Tips?? Use a syringe on your CA bottle. They are much better than those plastic shit. Is it getting clogged? Hold a lighter close to the needle for 2 sec. Blow out the flame and start glueing. After use, trow the glue in the freezer.
Oh man, you just setup the easiest reply for me of all time. But I'm not going to say it.... But yeah thats something I have been working on. It's hard to cover a lot of topic in a short time. The guys in editing are still working on it.
Thanks for the tips! I am definitely impressed by the packaging of this glue company. My next glue order is definitely this product. When i get glue on my fingers I just use debonder, it works great.
Take the old tip and put it in a jar of acetone, that will clean it up and you can get several uses out of each tip. I use a small glass jar and tweezers to get them out. Works for the precision tips also, not always perfect, but it works.
Yep, Acetone is great for saving the CA applicators. Good comment.
Another tip, when you finish laying down your glue, aim the bottle away from everything and give it a squeeze - forcing out any glue left in the tip. Additionally, when you set the bottle down, tap it firmly against your work surface a couple of times to help move any residual CA away from the opening.
LikePphil said below, I also remove the fine tips and soak them in acetone.
Wow - that is the first time I've seen thick CA used to help attach leading edge sheeting. Thank you!
i stopped using CA for the most part and use PVA wood glue seems to make a better model and less cost.
Thanks for your time and patience. Your explanations cleared a confusion from my knowledge in using CA.
Your modeling assistant is great
I'm about to start my first assembly with CA so these tips and associated comments sure came in handy. Thank you.
welcome back koku... we are happy to see the cat too....
I guess I'm just old because I'm still using Elmers Glue for my models. No smell, no BS. And my models haven't fallen apart yet. And I'm not concerned about stabbing myself to death with push pins. Currently working on a Guillows Space Shuttle. I couldn't make it all the way through your video because I think you've been sniffing too much of that glue you're using. I think you're all in too big of a hurry to get it done. I always thought that model building was about the trip, not the destination. If I wanted to get it done that fast I would just pay someone to make it for me. That "Beaver Nation" shirt says it all.
The beauty is: you have many ways to carry out how you do things with this hobby. I know a lot of people that don’t use CA, and prefer use Elmer’s or wood glue and pins. So more power to ya my friend!!!!! Hope you build your shuttle straight and it flies right. Which rhymes with Oregon State!!! Fight fight fight.
Great video. Thank you so much for the tips. I will try the new method of attaching leading edge sheeting instead of pins.
The new c/a glues makes the building so much easier and faster. Gone are the days of Ambroid, fumes that cause asthma and takes 12 hrs to set up.
Am just getting back into aero modelling and wanted to understand how to use the CA tips, as I'm building an indoor electric model. It's going to be the smallest Rc plane I've built. Great video really helpful.
thanks Dan for the tips. I did indeed learn more about the CA that I didn't know
That's awesome, thank you so much! I used to use pva but it took a very long time to dry and it got me bored building balsa kits. But after seeing this video, I fancy buying a balsa kit! Also you deserved a subscriber from me!
Thank you for your tips. I do sheeting similar to you, but instead of CA everywhere, I put the CA at each forward edge and on the spars. But on the ribs I use wood glue. The CA virtually pins the sheeting in place and clamps down on the curved portions of the ribs. I try not to do it in as much free space as you do in this example, as I wiggle things too much and they end up twisted or in some way out of shape if I do not.
I have done that myself. I hate pinning the sheeting down to the rib. So hard to tell if it is flat, solid against it or if the pin has backed out. At least CA ing it down to the front and back it may pull the sheeting tight the entire span.
You can become sensitive to CA from the fumes, so I wouldn’t use it too much. Titebond 3 for me
Lots of great info, love those precision tips too! On a somewhat unrelated note; Love the Cat!
She has her own fan club.
100% agree that CA is the best glue for many applications. Unfortunately I have developed an allergy to it. Makes working with it very difficult.
I have had a few friends that have had issues, becoming allergic to CA. Between that and sawdust, building has some hazards. I am working on a project with Starbond glue company right now and will be looking at their odorless thin CA. Maybe that would be a solution for you.
Go Beavers. From a fellow OSU alumni!!!!!
@@fgirolami11 Go Beavs
wonderful. you make it look easy . I'm at the same stage on my first ever balsa build. at the age of 65 and recovering from a stroke decided to build some planes . and I'm at the glue stage but worried it's going to go pear shaped! not sure if I can get this glue over here in England. I seem to have a mixture of glues, Gorilla, UHU, and some others maybe I'll get this and learn to use it well . thanks for your effort I'm building an outlaw by Keil craft 2foot span 600mm in New money. love that you are covering in balsa, think you have just convinced me to do the same. love peace and respect from Suffolk , England.
I’m pretty sure you should be able to find CA glue in England. Maybe not the brand I had in the video but surely a brand of it. Thin and medium are of the most use for me. Thin is an instant set with balsa and medium gives you some time to move the parts before it sets. You can find CAs on Amazon (probably in England as well) at better prices than a hardware store. Hope you can find it. Be careful with the fumes. If they get in your face it will sting your nose and eyes. Good ventilation.
@@Capgains7777 ordered some Dan . thank you 👍
Dan really enjoyed this video it taught me a lot about building a Air Planes specially the wings
I have been busy working on a Flying King wing today and using the method of laying down the thick CA on the ribs and gunning the sheeting with accelerator to quickly set down each piece of sheeting. Really speeds up the process with no bracing or clamping.
Hola, muy buen video, siempre use cola vinilica pero se demora mucho tiempo voy a probar con ciano.
Gracias.
Thanks for vid will use ya method s 🤙🤙
I much prefer Deluxe Materials “superphatic” glue, it takes a little bit longer to set, but I’ve tested it for strength against thin and medium CA and it creates a much stronger bond!
I have used Superphatic to join together sheeting sections and it does fine job as you said with a little more time to cure. I have never tried it on general construction of building because of the set time, and I believe the phatic being thin as water is actually water based. So while you are waiting for it to dry, it might warp the wood a little if it is a thin piece or lightweight and porous. Ive had to apply weights to drying pieces of sheeting while they dried so they didn’t swell up. Seems like it is a super watered down while glue.
@@Capgains7777 Dan, it’s an aliphatic resin, and comparing it to a watered down wood glue is like calling medium and thick CA dried out thin CA😁
I’ve used it for years on wood to wood joints, it causes no warpage or swelling and dries stronger than a CA joint. It’s my go to glue for well fitting joints (it has zero strength as a gap filler), sheeting,cap strips etc.
I use CA sparingly these days due to a developed allergy to the stuff, it has its place (especially for repairs) but in all honesty super phatic is a superior glue for most wood to wood joints.
@@Smokeyr67 It may be better, but if CA is doing the job, better with a longer cure time doesn't really do anything for me. Some times good enough is all that is required.
@@shelbyseelbach9568 good for you, as long as what your doing works for you then that’s great! As I said, superphatic does the job for me, without the fumes but with a longer cure time.
@@Smokeyr67 "Good for you." What are you, twelve? LOL. What a pathetic way to start a comment. Always amazing when people are willing to put forth their own opinions and experiences, yet act like a child when others respectfully do the same. No one said you were wrong, just a different opinion. People do have them, you know. Hilarious.
Thank you for all the tips and tricks!
I like the cat. Good content.
Thank you! (and I love all the puns!)
Certainly CA speeds up the build but there are some drawbacks like sanding over CA or a bead were you have to lay in something like webbing something to consider and mention.
CA (siano crill 8). Hahaha. And sanding are not one of its better performances. The stuff is so much harder than the balsa that sanding tends to take the balsa down so much faster than the CA it will erode the balsa on each side of a bead. The best way I have found to sand down a bump like that is to use a grit like 60 or 80 and rasp it lightly. Big grit will tear the glue down faster but use it carefully.
Add your trailing edge and your cap strips and bust out the sand paper!
Good video, Dan. I've used Titebond for a long time, gradually leaning more to CA. I'd like to see ya wearin' a Huskies shirt.
I would actually consider wearing a Huskies shirt. We have a saying in our house; Every weekend during any sport’s season we cheer for two teams. The Beavers and whoever is playing the Ducks. I still have an Auburn sweatshirt from some years ago. 😊
Sandpaper works, but I use a pumice stone, used in the shower, with water flowing over my fingers to remove hardened CA from my fingers!
Thats a good idea!!!
CA glue reacts with different materials. I used sawdust and CA for wood filler. This combination generates a lot of heat. I actually watched this mixture catch fire. Be careful! Also sanding wood that has CA glue on it will burn the inside of your nose, mouth and eyes if you are breathing the fumes in a confined and non ventilated space. Despite all that I still think CA glue is the best.
I have never got it to ignite but always suspected it could. I can't tell you the number of times I have had my fingers too close to CA I have hit with accelerator.... it freeking hurts!!!!
Maybe I'm over thinking but in regards to the bowed leading edge. It seems to me you would want to attach the leading edge as a convex piece vs a concave piece, i.e. bow facing out. The reason being, if you attach a concave piece to the end ribs first, when you push the leading edge onto the remaining ribs, you are going to push the outer ribs out of alignment.
BTW...great show!
Love your cat.
It's great if you need to disguise your finger prints
Nice demo!
Just found your channel just subscribed brilliant, will watch it later with the sound on, love your use of the CA adhesives. My daughter got me a spitfire kit for Christmas am making a right dogs dinner of it so far, last model I made was fifty years ago, a glider with a six foot wingspan. Am loving getting back into modelling but patience is being tested PVA takes too long to set and I was putting the CA straight on from the bottle, now diluting CA with acetone , and getting better results, got the activator on a small spray bottle and things are working better. What do you call the small blocks you use to hold the spars in position, you probably say in your video, am going to watch it again with the sound on. I really want to get back into modding, semi retired now, patience being tested I just need pointing in the right direction, when I made my glider it was 1972 I was 23, no internet just bought the kit, In those days you cut all the spars by hand, loved it. Fifty years on ,wife,happy home,kids life, work, and now I want to get back to modelling, will watch more of your videos but any pointers will be taken on board and appreciated. Many thanks for posting your videos Lawrence Ogden Gloucestershire UK
Hello Lawrence, sorry I just spotted this today. For some reason it is hard for me to find a way to see comments consistently. Anyway, yes, I try to spew out many tips as I build. So turn up that sound. There are many old modelers out there that have secrets, and I think that there is no use for those when others need help to get started. If you have past building experience with building which involved cutting an entire kit, then you are well prepared for building from plans. And luckily there are lots of them out there to fit almost any of type of aircraft you seek. I refer to Aerofred.com often as a site for free plans. You have to register which is free as well but it gives you access to many downloadable files you can take to a print shop to get plans. CA is a great glue for building. I didn’t know that acetone can be used as a thinner for it. But if that works go for it. I prefer to buy thin CA which is more like water in viscosity and have medium CA for use with accelerator. I use latch magnets, often used on cupboard doors for holding the parts to the table. Currently I have a metal door for laying the plans on but you can lay a piece of sheet metal (20+ gauge) on any workbench top as long as it’s big enough for the aircraft being built for the same effectiveness. I will be making a video with more depth for building with magnets. If you look in the description for any of my videos there is an Amazon link where you can purchase and/see the dimensions of the magnets. Carry on, retirement is a great time to take up building something you have always wanted to build.
very informative video. I like the sawdust thing. what I'm wondering is where did you get those little magnets and what type of work surface are you using? t.y.
love that cat😂
Thank you for sharing
Wow, I wish I could build that good?
Well considering the predecessor was PVA and took several hours to set definitely slowed down construction.
CA is good for some jobs. But, wing sheeting isn’t one of them. WeldBond is an awesome glue if you’re patient.
I want to look into that... someone that is a woodworking hobbyist mentioned that glue the other day. Being in this hobby makes us kind of adhesive geeks. (We really stick together...Hahaha). Anyway, I will be seeking some out to see what its good for. What we have available in adhesives seems to keep growing and it's wonderful to see the advances in technology.
I tried to use titebond for wing sheeting before and all I got was a warped wing. I like Dan's method. If not Dan's method, I'd go get a handful of straight pins and a big tube of Sigment. It will accomplish the same thing but you'll have to wait longer.
C A is the best tool you are right
Caution, I used CA to build a complex scale model and became allergic to it. If I use CA now I get flu/bad hay-fever like symptoms for a week.
Thank you lot's
I'm just getting back into modeling rc I'm interested in the magnets what holds the magnets down as I have a 1/4 scale that I would like to start.
Pet the cat!!
I didn't know sliced bread was a building tool. So that's what I've been doing wrong all these years!
Wait, you don’t have a bread slicer on your work bench? What, do you live under a rock? Don’t tell me you don’t have a crockpot on your bench either? Just kidding I’m full of old guy sayings.
Good one! I knew you were kidding.@@Capgains7777
Isn’t CA glue too brittle for this application?
@@lifuranph.d.9440 brittle doesn’t really come into play on balsa wood because it soaks into the wood so well and fuses the fibers. Most of the joints in the airframe don’t need flexibility so brittle isn’t an issue. There are some places I don’t use CA because it is a joint that needs to be flexible such as firewalls, and landing gear plates. Recently however I bought a bottle of medium viscosity glue from Starbond that says it is a flexible formula. We’ll see I guess.
I'm building a wing for a 40 size Great Planes Cap 232 from the mid 90s..I bought two fuselages from an estate sale.. Both had a flown but, neither had a wing.. I've been having some fun getting a wing going.. I may only build this one wing and swap it back and forth.. I'll just have to cover it in a neutral combo..
I enjoy your videos.. Good stuff dude.. Are you up in Oregon?, Or on the west coast?
Yes and Yes. We live in the Cascades of southern Oregon. So west coast and Oregon. Its funny, Everyone seems to have a fuse or a wing laying around waiting for a new one of the other to be made. So do you intend to gear up both fuses, or restore one plane and keep the second fuse in case you need to rebuild again? That’s quite a conundrum you have going there.
Spray twice you missed the first time with that the first spray is your aim, and the second your contact spray!
After 30 years or so of using CA with no issues I finally developed a horrible allergy to it, so bad I had to stop using it for anything but situations where nothing else will do. With a 3m respirator I bought from an automotive paint supply store I can use CA, but it sucks to wear the mask. Moral of the story.... listen to DAN, limit your exposure by opening a window and maybe use a fan, because you CAN run out of tolerance to CA and that really sucks.
I have had several friends that have become allergic to it. Including a fingernail technician. But they are exposed to many other chemicals as well so, what a cocktail. Ventilate and airflow I think are your best avoidance tools.
Where can I find CA hinge material?
sigmfg.com/products/sig-easy-hinges
Where do you get the magnets ? And, what is the description ? Thanks !
amzn.to/3BYTS2B Its called a low ferrite magnetic fastener. I have this link available in the description on almost every video I have made. Its the number 1 question I get.
Does Star Bond sell in Canada Dan?
I’m pretty sure it is available there because I first learned of it from a guitar builder that lives in Ontario. Hope you have a great project coming up.
Lol i didnt hear the 1st part. My attention span went to the cat 😅 ill restart lol
Good video, Why doesn't anyone point out that if you get CA and Accelerate on your skin it will burn like H!!!?
I spattered a drop into my eye once. That sucked.
Sembra facile, ma è molto complicato basta sbagliare di 1mm e diventa un grande errore. Complimenti
The only bad thing is, you can become extremely allergic to ca after using it a lot.
So true. I try and mention in my videos to have ventilation and even a fan that blows across your work table. Keep those fumes away from your nose and eyes and vent out your shop on occasion.
very cool. checkout my video of my trixter beam build. getting ready to start a bellanca cruisemaster!
Re uploaded... why ?
I had to edit a line that was on the original that was incorrect about the use of the promo code. Removed about 2 seconds of footage.
I have heard that the use of CA glues can be harmful to your kidneys.
Always drink milk after using the glue..... True..👍
Tips?? Use a syringe on your CA bottle. They are much better than those plastic shit. Is it getting clogged? Hold a lighter close to the needle for 2 sec. Blow out the flame and start glueing.
After use, trow the glue in the freezer.
Too damn long!
Oh man, you just setup the easiest reply for me of all time. But I'm not going to say it.... But yeah thats something I have been working on. It's hard to cover a lot of topic in a short time. The guys in editing are still working on it.