Dan, thanks for documenting this. You make this look easily attainable and hopefully it will inspire more folks will take the plunge and 'roll their own' instead of buying an ARF. Another 'trick' for cutting out kit parts is as follows. I buy or make 2 copies of plans when I scratch build. In the same way you sacrificed your photo copy to use as a template, I cut out and glue (3m77) the templates to something like 1/8th ply, etc. I take my time and do a perfect job of cutting out this single plywood part and use it as a guild/template to duplicate parts using a router table with a flush trim bit. I use double sided carpet tape to hold the template to my material/stock. I keep this 'kit' of templates with the plans and if I ever want to build another of the same model (for a friend, after a crash, etc) all the hard work of cutting the kit is already done. Not saying my way is better....just another approach especially if you think you may want to build more than one of a given model.
Thats a great way to keep your options open for ease of building a second one down the road or God forbid a new wing or fusalage. I like the double sided carpet tape idea. Got to find me some of that. :)
Use tracing paper to keep from cutting up your plans. Can also use transfer paper or carbon paper in some instances. Jeeps from having to go to copy shop. Awesome build, now im going to dig through plans for a winter project lol..😂
thanks Dan, just about to build a Spitfire, 6foot wings and 5foot long: my first ever balsa build after a stroke in 2020 part of my rehabilitation . respect from Suffolk, England .
I liked that , I've built quite a few plan built models , I've used the sandwich rib cutting method , I normally just pin the sheets together , then sand ,as I haven't used power. Saws , from Tony McCarthy from Sandy bedfordshire 👍
Dear Dan! Good to see this video. Also would be happy to see some tricks cutting or shaping different sized ribs of tapered wings at once. Especially when blueprints do not contain each rib but the first and the last. Thanks in advance!
Hi Viktor, That's no fun when they give only each end of the wing half. I'm really careful looking over plans for such short falls before I start. The double taper is hard because the ribs will shrink in both length and height as you go down the wing. I think there are probably three ways you could create the wing parts that aren't there. 1. ACAD. There used to be a program that could create templates of ribs for a wing that you design. It has been many years but it might still be out there. I think it was called Modelcad or something like that. 2. If you have access to a foam cutter make a foam wing using the inner and outer ribs as a template, (transfer them to 1/8 ply if they are balsa. This would be the easiest way to create the wing and sheet with balsa. But if you don't have a foam cutter, you may have to make one. 3. Just build it by setting out the two ribs and guessing where the others should go simply eyeballing it. I know, it's not easy and I wouldn't have the patience to do it but. Some people do. I wish I had more for you. Good luck.
When the Plan is printed on a laser printer, it's easy to iron the shapes onto wood. Hairspray is to be sprayed onto the wood, then use an iron to transfer the plan with the toner down onto the wood. A few years ago I built a plane out of a book called "how to build models that fly". There I found this method. OK, the Toner will be shown mirrored on the wood, this may be to think of. But it worked excellent!
I agree with you. I remember when I only built from kits. But back then building something as big as this Rebel was a rarity as well, the majority of kits were 40-60 sized glow engine. So when gasoline engines became more available I decided to build scale models that were in the 80+ inch size. There are tons of them. I have always loved planes that look like a real version. Anyway, if you have built a few planes from kits... You can scratch build.
2 threaded bolts washer and wing nuts hold the rib stack more securely. It might interfere with scroll saw, but for sanding and fitting its preferable.
Here's a easier way to cut ribs. Take your plan to the library and make a copy of the part you want to make using a printer that uses toner. Darken the copy as dark as you can get it and still have crisp lines. Next use a monocot iron on high heat to run over the paper templates. This will print the lines from the paper onto the wood allowing you to cut the parts out.
Interesting…..I bring the plan into Fusion 360 and trace around the rib and output a .svg file ( you have your install the free shaper tools svg plug in ). I then load this svg fill into my Cricut Maker 3 design studios and duplicate the ribs. You can cut many ribs perfectly using the 12” x 24” strong grip mat. No sanding is required and the quality is awesome. The Cricut Maker 3 can cut basswood or Balsa ; 1/16” up to 3/32” using multiple passes. It’s not fast but you go watch tv while it’s cutting :). If I need a 1/4” piece, I just make four 1/16” pieces and glue them together with thin CA.
That's one thing you can really take advantage of, with this constant chord wing. On a p-51 wing with a double taper design every rib is different, so you have to cut them out separately.
I photocopy the sections, place them design side down onto the balsa and then sponge turpentine onto the paper. whenI take up the paper the design is transferred to the wood.
Is the grain orientation on the ribs important? I'm used to seeing the grain direction run straight down the ribs, so wonder if that offset affects them in any meaningful way.
You are the second comment I have seen about the alignment of the grain. I've never had a problem with ribs shearing as long as the grain direction is fairly close and in this case it seems pretty close to me. If it was a 45 degree or more discrepancy perhaps. The finished wing is really strong. But we'll see how she holds together.
I'm planning on getting a quick vid out in the next few days. For the longest time I had only a band saw, but after picking up a scroll saw at a swap meet, I was ruined. It has so many advantages over the band saw beside the clearance issues. It is the best tool you can have for scratch building. Having both is good too.
Salve che bel lavoro preciso. Con gli attrezzi corretti si fanno lavori stupendi. Il metodo sandwich a me viene male, i primi pezzi ok dopo gli ultimi vengono diversi. Il taglierino lametta non viene preciso soprattutto gli ultimi pezzi. Forse a mano libera è meglio farne uno a uno ovviamente con la stessa matrice. Buon lavoro Maestro , se fossimo vicini di casa sarei sempre a farle visita per imparare
Translates to: Hi what a nice job. With the right tools, you can do amazing jobs. The sandwich method is bad for me, the first pieces ok after the last ones are different. The razor blade cutter is not precise especially the last pieces. Maybe freehand it's better to do them one by one obviously with the same matrix. Good job Maestro, if we were neighbors I would always be visiting you to learn. The scroll saw does a great job keeping the cut uniform through all the stack. If I had to use a razor saw I would probably scale it down to 4 stacks of 6 or possibly less (more stacks). Which adds more cutting but if you have to do it to maintain the sizes, probably a good idea. Scroll saw is a short cut for sure. It would be great if you were a neighbor. My friend Mark and I are some of the last builders in our area. We could use some more building enthusiasts here. Questo sta usando il traduttore quindi spero che vada bene. La sega da traforo fa un ottimo lavoro mantenendo il taglio uniforme su tutta la pila. Se dovessi usare una sega a rasoio, probabilmente lo ridimensionerei a 4 pile da 6 o forse meno (più pile). Il che aggiunge più taglio ma se devi farlo per mantenere le dimensioni, probabilmente una buona idea. La sega a scorrimento è sicuramente una scorciatoia. Sarebbe fantastico se tu fossi un vicino. Il mio amico Mark ed io siamo alcuni degli ultimi costruttori della nostra zona. Potremmo usare altri appassionati di costruzione qui.
@@Capgains7777 non conosco Mark ma da come ho capito è un buon costruttore come te. Cercate di coinvolgere i giovani a imparare. Bastano anche solo 5 persone che portano avanti questa passione con tutti i segreti di costruzione che sono oro conoscerli. Questo lo stai già facendo con youtube e io ti ringrazio. E poi ci sono i gatti 😁🙃👍👏👏💪😸 anche questo in comune , simpatico il tuo che gli piace mostrarsi quando fai i video 😁😄😄😄👏👏👏👏💪👍
There's a reason that the centre line of the rib runs parallel to the grain of the balsa and not at a (say) 15 deg offset as you have done for convenience , it compromises the strength of the rib and hence the wing - just saying :-))
15 degrees? Really? Id say its no more than 14 or at least in the area of 11 to 13. Thank God there’s all that sheeting and cap strips and fiberglass and over engineering to help strengthen it. 🥴
Hey Tony. That has been one of the most requested subjects. Check out the video list, I actually made a separate video where I mocked up those spar slots and showed you how to do them with the scroll saw. It really isn’t rocket surgery 😃😃😃
Dan, do you have a method you use to determine from the plan what you need, how much, for wood? For example, How many 1/16 thick sheets you need to order after reviewing the plan.
I wish that I did have a method to guess the amount of wood needed for plans by just looking at it, but I don't have a formal way. I guess I have always kind of estimated, and then added overage just to be for sure. Many times as in the case for the Rebel, the designer may provide a list as part of the build article. Other than that it's just a matter of looking at each template and group the same thicknesses together... keep in mind that most sheets will be in 3 or 4 inch widths and 36 or 48 length and see how many you will need to group the templates onto a single sheet. That's all I can really offer for help... just be thorough as you look over the plans. I like cutting my own sticks from sheets using the razor cutters I show in the videos. I will say even with the list provided by the designer of the Rebel, I have a ton of wood left over... so much for efficiency.
Thank you so much for making these videos. Would you mind to make a very short video showing how you cut the notch for the spar? I understand that your camera died and you didn’t realize it. Did you use the jig saw to cut the notches?
Yeah, I'll address that in my next vid... The scroll saw is a very versatile tool, and there are a few tricks. Just need to figure out how to get the camera in the right spot.
I have mounted and unmounted that cabinet in three different houses... So, its back is a little warped. Or its a ghost. I forget to close it by pushing the top of the door. It took me two months to figure that out, thought I was going crazy, I don't leave cabinets open. Hahaha.
I don't have access to a laser cutter, or cnc machine. The last time I looked into laser cutters, they cost $10,000. That was many years ago, but maybe they have come down in price. Laser cut kits are a great option if you are not interested in transferring and cutting parts out, but for this set of plans the parts are so simple... And with the wing having identical ribs the entire span... That's 20 parts right there...with stacked wood. Easy. I think cutting the parts for this kit took maybe an hour... It takes longer when you are shooting video... But it was fast and very therapeutic.... Like sawdust zen.
@@Capgains7777 I don't mean a cutter, I mean an etcher to etch the drawing onto the wood so you can follow the etched lines on the saw. Yeah cnc laser cutters would be expensive for personal use. Ps. I thoroughly enjoy these vids. I'm inspired and soon as I have the room and the money I'm gonna try this
This one is a Dremel model 1680 Variable 16 inch scroll saw. I am not sure that Dremel is still making this saw any more. You may be able to find one at a garage sale or a flea market if you are lucky.
so you ate elmers white glue in kindergarten ... youngin ... we had paste glue .. elmers was for the rich kids with daddies in the diplomatic corps ... good ole flour and water paste mixed up in the teachers bathroom for us kids to glue stuff together ...
Plans are not templates. They are used to make a template, many plan vendors advertise on eBay selling "plans and templates" as if they are sending 2 different items they are not.
Why did you drill the holes into the ribs? You could just of easily drilled the holes into the waste part of the wood. Now your ribs will have random holes in them.
That is a great question. In this case it serves two purposes. First the holes have a bamboo skewer in them while I am cutting and sanding the ribs to lock them in place in a stack, so they will be identical. A way to mass produce the work. The second purpose comes in when covering. Because the ribs are solid many of the bays will be airtight when the covering goes on. Especially in the front part of the wing in front of all of the sheer webs. Having those holes will give a place for the expanding air to pass when you use a heat gun to tighten the skin on the wing. Otherwise it can balloon up. The holes don’t hurt the integrity but will show up if you use a transparent covering. It’s just something I have always done building wings but I was reaffirmed when I built the Flying King wing. Its in the instructions to put holes in the ribs for the purpose of pressure release. And those ribs come cut already.
Kinda funny but when I cut this stack out I actually counted the ribs incorrectly and had two extra ribs after assembly was done. So those two ribs were floating around the shop for quite some time before I used them in a wing mock up for CA glue video I made later on. I do know a lot of modelers that will make a template of the ribs just in case usually with 1/16 ply. I don’t know though. I guess my philosophy about airplanes is, there are so many planes and so little time. I rarely will build the same plane twice. My biggest exception was when I was involved in racing and often had 2 or 3 backup planes and I had templates for every part of that plane. My second exception is the F4U Corsair. I have had a 40, 60, and a foamy, and have a Meister Scale 100” under construction and a Flite Test master kit on the shelf. But for the most part once I finish a plane I will be moving on to another. So little time…
That would work as well, there are many ways to do this for sure. I was just trying to show a way to easily cut all of the the ribs at one time, using a photocopy of the rib template. Because this model has a constant chord wing and all of the ribs are the same, this step super fast and easy. Almost as easy as cutting one rib and done. On models where the wing is tapered both in thickness and in chord, each rib is different as you travel down the span no short cuts!!! One more reason the Rebel is an easy scratchbuild.
Michael I will do it. In the future I will do some videos about the tools and other things like glues, and the magnet board as well. I found that once I built with magnets my planes turned out much straighter to the plans. Building straight and true is hugely important on a model aircraft. Thanks for your kind comment!!!
Good morning sir puchna Chahta Hun Ki 26 cc engine Kitna vajan Tak Utha lega main abhi first time RC plane banaa raha hun kripya Karke thoda Mujhe bataen aur engine aur beans Mein bich Mein Kitni Duri honi chahie vah India se hun Ravi Singh Basheer comment Mein Jarur bataen sar request mein pump Allah kitna bada lagega 26 cc engine ke Kitna wait Tak Utha Lega
Dan, thanks for documenting this. You make this look easily attainable and hopefully it will inspire more folks will take the plunge and 'roll their own' instead of buying an ARF. Another 'trick' for cutting out kit parts is as follows. I buy or make 2 copies of plans when I scratch build. In the same way you sacrificed your photo copy to use as a template, I cut out and glue (3m77) the templates to something like 1/8th ply, etc. I take my time and do a perfect job of cutting out this single plywood part and use it as a guild/template to duplicate parts using a router table with a flush trim bit. I use double sided carpet tape to hold the template to my material/stock. I keep this 'kit' of templates with the plans and if I ever want to build another of the same model (for a friend, after a crash, etc) all the hard work of cutting the kit is already done. Not saying my way is better....just another approach especially if you think you may want to build more than one of a given model.
Thats a great way to keep your options open for ease of building a second one down the road or God forbid a new wing or fusalage. I like the double sided carpet tape idea. Got to find me some of that. :)
I’m a 70 year builder , AMA8855, and I just learned a few steps that will allow me to once again enjoy scratch building. Thanks a bunch
Great to hear Tom!!!! An honor to hear from a 4 number AMA member.
Use tracing paper to keep from cutting up your plans. Can also use transfer paper or carbon paper in some instances. Jeeps from having to go to copy shop. Awesome build, now im going to dig through plans for a winter project lol..😂
thanks Dan, just about to build a Spitfire, 6foot wings and 5foot long: my first ever balsa build after a stroke in 2020 part of my rehabilitation . respect from Suffolk, England .
Good on you Geoffrey!!! Best of luck with your build. I have a Mk IX in my stack of kits to be built. Love the warbirds. Keep me informed how it goes.
I've got that same exact scroll saw. Couldn't build without it.
I liked that , I've built quite a few plan built models , I've used the sandwich rib cutting method , I normally just pin the sheets together , then sand ,as I haven't used power. Saws , from Tony McCarthy from Sandy bedfordshire 👍
Dear Dan! Good to see this video. Also would be happy to see some tricks cutting or shaping different sized ribs of tapered wings at once. Especially when blueprints do not contain each rib but the first and the last. Thanks in advance!
Hi Viktor,
That's no fun when they give only each end of the wing half. I'm really careful looking over plans for such short falls before I start. The double taper is hard because the ribs will shrink in both length and height as you go down the wing. I think there are probably three ways you could create the wing parts that aren't there.
1. ACAD. There used to be a program that could create templates of ribs for a wing that you design. It has been many years but it might still be out there. I think it was called Modelcad or something like that.
2. If you have access to a foam cutter make a foam wing using the inner and outer ribs as a template, (transfer them to 1/8 ply if they are balsa. This would be the easiest way to create the wing and sheet with balsa. But if you don't have a foam cutter, you may have to make one.
3. Just build it by setting out the two ribs and guessing where the others should go simply eyeballing it. I know, it's not easy and I wouldn't have the patience to do it but. Some people do.
I wish I had more for you. Good luck.
When the Plan is printed on a laser printer, it's easy to iron the shapes onto wood. Hairspray is to be sprayed onto the wood, then use an iron to transfer the plan with the toner down onto the wood. A few years ago I built a plane out of a book called "how to build models that fly". There I found this method. OK, the Toner will be shown mirrored on the wood, this may be to think of. But it worked excellent!
Good idea!!!!
Thanks for posting this kind of stuff. It’s helping cross over to the scratch building (that and the damn lack of kits these days).
I agree with you. I remember when I only built from kits. But back then building something as big as this Rebel was a rarity as well, the majority of kits were 40-60 sized glow engine. So when gasoline engines became more available I decided to build scale models that were in the 80+ inch size. There are tons of them. I have always loved planes that look like a real version. Anyway, if you have built a few planes from kits... You can scratch build.
2 threaded bolts washer and wing nuts hold the rib stack more securely. It might interfere with scroll saw, but for sanding and fitting its preferable.
Great stuff man. I just started scratch building. Wish I found this 3 weeks ago. I subbed.
Glad to hear you are taking up the lost art.
That's excellent, I'm building a small hand launch glider from a plan and I'm going to use your method for making the wing ribs.
thank's Dan,god bless you and your family
Here's a easier way to cut ribs. Take your plan to the library and make a copy of the part you want to make using a printer that uses toner. Darken the copy as dark as you can get it and still have crisp lines. Next use a monocot iron on high heat to run over the paper templates. This will print the lines from the paper onto the wood allowing you to cut the parts out.
Awesome videos Dan! Very informative and great quality. I'm sitting down to watch every episode tonight as I'm building my first DLG tomorrow.
Great video!
Thank you for the tutorial.
Keep up the good work
I think also we can add thin long pins to hold the ribs better so they stay firm while cutting...
@Zachariah Ashton zumkadio dresterio
Interesting…..I bring the plan into Fusion 360 and trace around the rib and output a .svg file ( you have your install the free shaper tools svg plug in ). I then load this svg fill into my Cricut Maker 3 design studios and duplicate the ribs. You can cut many ribs perfectly using the 12” x 24” strong grip mat. No sanding is required and the quality is awesome. The Cricut Maker 3 can cut basswood or Balsa ; 1/16” up to 3/32” using multiple passes. It’s not fast but you go watch tv while it’s cutting :). If I need a 1/4” piece, I just make four 1/16” pieces and glue them together with thin CA.
Lotsa different ways to do this now. That’s cool. 😎
Beats cutting one at a time! thanks :)
That's one thing you can really take advantage of, with this constant chord wing. On a p-51 wing with a double taper design every rib is different, so you have to cut them out separately.
@@Capgains7777 Ugly stick next build so very similar to this :)
I photocopy the sections, place them design side down onto the balsa and then sponge turpentine onto the paper. whenI take up the paper the design is transferred to the wood.
Is the grain orientation on the ribs important?
I'm used to seeing the grain direction run straight down the ribs, so wonder if that offset affects them in any meaningful way.
You are the second comment I have seen about the alignment of the grain. I've never had a problem with ribs shearing as long as the grain direction is fairly close and in this case it seems pretty close to me. If it was a 45 degree or more discrepancy perhaps. The finished wing is really strong. But we'll see how she holds together.
Love these nuggets
Thank you so much. I have a bandsaw I haven’t set up yet. A jigsaw might’ve been a better purchase.
I'm planning on getting a quick vid out in the next few days. For the longest time I had only a band saw, but after picking up a scroll saw at a swap meet, I was ruined. It has so many advantages over the band saw beside the clearance issues. It is the best tool you can have for scratch building. Having both is good too.
Thank You Dan.
Did anyone else notice that cabinet door open by itself towards the end of the video ????
I’m sure there was a ghost…. I did not bring that cabinet to the new house.
How did he cut out the flat in the spar notches
Salve che bel lavoro preciso. Con gli attrezzi corretti si fanno lavori stupendi. Il metodo sandwich a me viene male, i primi pezzi ok dopo gli ultimi vengono diversi. Il taglierino lametta non viene preciso soprattutto gli ultimi pezzi. Forse a mano libera è meglio farne uno a uno ovviamente con la stessa matrice. Buon lavoro Maestro , se fossimo vicini di casa sarei sempre a farle visita per imparare
Translates to:
Hi what a nice job. With the right tools, you can do amazing jobs. The sandwich method is bad for me, the first pieces ok after the last ones are different. The razor blade cutter is not precise especially the last pieces. Maybe freehand it's better to do them one by one obviously with the same matrix. Good job Maestro, if we were neighbors I would always be visiting you to learn.
The scroll saw does a great job keeping the cut uniform through all the stack. If I had to use a razor saw I would probably scale it down to 4 stacks of 6 or possibly less (more stacks). Which adds more cutting but if you have to do it to maintain the sizes, probably a good idea.
Scroll saw is a short cut for sure. It would be great if you were a neighbor. My friend Mark and I are some of the last builders in our area. We could use some more building enthusiasts here.
Questo sta usando il traduttore quindi spero che vada bene.
La sega da traforo fa un ottimo lavoro mantenendo il taglio uniforme su tutta la pila. Se dovessi usare una sega a rasoio, probabilmente lo ridimensionerei a 4 pile da 6 o forse meno (più pile). Il che aggiunge più taglio ma se devi farlo per mantenere le dimensioni, probabilmente una buona idea. La sega a scorrimento è sicuramente una scorciatoia. Sarebbe fantastico se tu fossi un vicino. Il mio amico Mark ed io siamo alcuni degli ultimi costruttori della nostra zona. Potremmo usare altri appassionati di costruzione qui.
@@Capgains7777 non conosco Mark ma da come ho capito è un buon costruttore come te. Cercate di coinvolgere i giovani a imparare. Bastano anche solo 5 persone che portano avanti questa passione con tutti i segreti di costruzione che sono oro conoscerli. Questo lo stai già facendo con youtube e io ti ringrazio. E poi ci sono i gatti 😁🙃👍👏👏💪😸 anche questo in comune , simpatico il tuo che gli piace mostrarsi quando fai i video 😁😄😄😄👏👏👏👏💪👍
There's a reason that the centre line of the rib runs parallel to the grain of the balsa and not at a (say) 15 deg offset as you have done for convenience , it compromises the strength of the rib and hence the wing - just saying :-))
15 degrees? Really? Id say its no more than 14 or at least in the area of 11 to 13. Thank God there’s all that sheeting and cap strips and fiberglass and over engineering to help strengthen it. 🥴
What I wanted to see was cutting out the square parts
Hey Tony. That has been one of the most requested subjects. Check out the video list, I actually made a separate video where I mocked up those spar slots and showed you how to do them with the scroll saw. It really isn’t rocket surgery 😃😃😃
Dan, do you have a method you use to determine from the plan what you need, how much, for wood? For example, How many 1/16 thick sheets you need to order after reviewing the plan.
I wish that I did have a method to guess the amount of wood needed for plans by just looking at it, but I don't have a formal way. I guess I have always kind of estimated, and then added overage just to be for sure. Many times as in the case for the Rebel, the designer may provide a list as part of the build article. Other than that it's just a matter of looking at each template and group the same thicknesses together... keep in mind that most sheets will be in 3 or 4 inch widths and 36 or 48 length and see how many you will need to group the templates onto a single sheet. That's all I can really offer for help... just be thorough as you look over the plans. I like cutting my own sticks from sheets using the razor cutters I show in the videos. I will say even with the list provided by the designer of the Rebel, I have a ton of wood left over... so much for efficiency.
What kind of blades do you recommend? I am about to give this a try on my scroll saw.
Hi Dan. Quick question. Great how you cut these out with the scroll saw, but how did you cut out the square cutouts?. I know the camera cut out.
How did you cut the spar slots?
Thank you so much for making these videos. Would you mind to make a very short video showing how you cut the notch for the spar? I understand that your camera died and you didn’t realize it. Did you use the jig saw to cut the notches?
Yeah, I'll address that in my next vid... The scroll saw is a very versatile tool, and there are a few tricks. Just need to figure out how to get the camera in the right spot.
I don't know if anybody noticed the cabinet door in the background at 13:42 into the video opened on its own.......LOL
I have mounted and unmounted that cabinet in three different houses... So, its back is a little warped. Or its a ghost.
I forget to close it by pushing the top of the door. It took me two months to figure that out, thought I was going crazy, I don't leave cabinets open. Hahaha.
Have you ever thought about laser etching the design into the wood for parts like this?
I don't have access to a laser cutter, or cnc machine. The last time I looked into laser cutters, they cost $10,000. That was many years ago, but maybe they have come down in price. Laser cut kits are a great option if you are not interested in transferring and cutting parts out, but for this set of plans the parts are so simple... And with the wing having identical ribs the entire span... That's 20 parts right there...with stacked wood. Easy. I think cutting the parts for this kit took maybe an hour... It takes longer when you are shooting video... But it was fast and very therapeutic.... Like sawdust zen.
@@Capgains7777 I don't mean a cutter, I mean an etcher to etch the drawing onto the wood so you can follow the etched lines on the saw. Yeah cnc laser cutters would be expensive for personal use. Ps. I thoroughly enjoy these vids. I'm inspired and soon as I have the room and the money I'm gonna try this
What is the name/model of you schrool saw?
This one is a Dremel model 1680 Variable 16 inch scroll saw. I am not sure that Dremel is still making this saw any more. You may be able to find one at a garage sale or a flea market if you are lucky.
so you ate elmers white glue in kindergarten ... youngin ... we had paste glue .. elmers was for the rich kids with daddies in the diplomatic corps ... good ole flour and water paste mixed up in the teachers bathroom for us kids to glue stuff together ...
Plans are not templates. They are used to make a template, many plan vendors advertise on eBay selling "plans and templates" as if they are sending 2 different items they are not.
Why did you drill the holes into the ribs? You could just of easily drilled the holes into the waste part of the wood. Now your ribs will have random holes in them.
That is a great question. In this case it serves two purposes. First the holes have a bamboo skewer in them while I am cutting and sanding the ribs to lock them in place in a stack, so they will be identical. A way to mass produce the work. The second purpose comes in when covering. Because the ribs are solid many of the bays will be airtight when the covering goes on. Especially in the front part of the wing in front of all of the sheer webs. Having those holes will give a place for the expanding air to pass when you use a heat gun to tighten the skin on the wing. Otherwise it can balloon up. The holes don’t hurt the integrity but will show up if you use a transparent covering. It’s just something I have always done building wings but I was reaffirmed when I built the Flying King wing. Its in the instructions to put holes in the ribs for the purpose of pressure release. And those ribs come cut already.
I just got a nifty idea why don't you just make a sample of one rib and keep that one sample to make more wings for future planes just an idea
Kinda funny but when I cut this stack out I actually counted the ribs incorrectly and had two extra ribs after assembly was done. So those two ribs were floating around the shop for quite some time before I used them in a wing mock up for CA glue video I made later on. I do know a lot of modelers that will make a template of the ribs just in case usually with 1/16 ply. I don’t know though. I guess my philosophy about airplanes is, there are so many planes and so little time. I rarely will build the same plane twice. My biggest exception was when I was involved in racing and often had 2 or 3 backup planes and I had templates for every part of that plane. My second exception is the F4U Corsair. I have had a 40, 60, and a foamy, and have a Meister Scale 100” under construction and a Flite Test master kit on the shelf. But for the most part once I finish a plane I will be moving on to another. So little time…
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why not thin plexiglass and cut 1 rib abd trace the plexiglass onto the wood
That would work as well, there are many ways to do this for sure. I was just trying to show a way to easily cut all of the the ribs at one time, using a photocopy of the rib template. Because this model has a constant chord wing and all of the ribs are the same, this step super fast and easy. Almost as easy as cutting one rib and done. On models where the wing is tapered both in thickness and in chord, each rib is different as you travel down the span no short cuts!!! One more reason the Rebel is an easy scratchbuild.
Hi nee to your channel really like your stuff. Can you post info for your magnetic bench
Michael I will do it. In the future I will do some videos about the tools and other things like glues, and the magnet board as well. I found that once I built with magnets my planes turned out much straighter to the plans. Building straight and true is hugely important on a model aircraft. Thanks for your kind comment!!!
Your plan called for 3/31" Balsa if I saw correctly. It looks like you are using plywood ???
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