Excellent video. It shows everything you should NOT be doing when planning (well no planning here) and installing audio system in your vehicle. The again, he is a Swiftie.
Bro.... My guy. I promise you I'm not trying to be an ass but... 1. Take all of that back except the amp. You can keep that. Looks like monoblock and Alpine is good quality. 2. Disconnect the power wire. Fuse it. Before the amp. Or run a fused distribution block. 3. Google the following: Insert year make and model of the vehicle and add under seat box at the end. 4. Pick a box that matches and is either sealed or tuned somewhere in the 30's. Hey the net cubic feet and how many subs it fits. 5. Find matching subs that add up to the total net cubic feet of the box and the RMS rating of the amp. 6. If you decide to go your own way no worries. But fuse that power wire behind the seat somewhere. Only you can prevent forest fires. Real advice with a little tongue in cheek, The Original Wis
I’d recommend looking at the TW3 12 loaded enclosure for under your seat or the TW5 13.5 loaded enclosure for under the seat as well to experiment with.
I tried to follow you as you went back and forth. Just have someone build you a custom enclosure for under the back seat for two 10's. You will be happy.
I have the JL CP106LG-3WV3 6.5" powered by Alpine mono amp 150W @ 4 Ohms D-class in the back seat of my Cayman sports car. I agree that this little ported box hits hard & clean quality music. Planning to add one more for driver back seat.
This is funny. I had the same thinking as you a while back. I had one 15, two 10s, and three 8s, along with a 6.5 sub in each door. I thought for sure I would get all frequency of bass. I was wrong, they were right. Frequencies start canceling each other out. Sold it all and just picked up 2 matching 15s. So much louder when the 2 subs are working together
@@JayRSwan yes, but much easier and requires less specialty equipment to just match your speakers. I'm much happier with matching 15s. Also when I first got them I had each sub on different amps but since I've upgraded to a single amp that is stable at half ohm it is much better.
Since you seem to favor JL Audio, you may think about getting a JL Stealthbox. They are vehicle specific and are intended to sound the best AND keep your seat and floor space. And if you want better, remove your rear seat and there are unlimited brands and boxes that will blow your mind.
So you think I should get JL Audio speakers to put in grand marquis I just want my speakers to sound good and i don't want my music to be heard outside just inside the car
If it was me, I would definitely go with JL, audio speakers. The size is completely up to you! If you’re trying to have a a subwoofer with good bass inside of the car for your own pleasure, I think the 6 1/2 would provide all that for you. Or if you turn it up very loud, even that 6 1/2 punches loud enough to be heard outside of the car. But having some type of a subwoofer, definitely helps the audio experience inside of the car.
@@rawphysique I just want a small box cause I want my space in my trunk I don't want the car to rattle and I want enough bass in the car so when I'm cruising I'm enjoying the music. My brother have skar audio speakers but I want something that's going to sound good so I was thinking get 1 6.5 subwoofer I don't need all that noise ya see
@@chiefbubba2581 yah man, I was talking about the 6.5 ported JL Audio subwoofer (6 1/2) what I called it. It’s good, and doesn’t take up to much space. You’ll need an amp to push it though. And also, I would go get the dimensions of that speaker off of the JL audio website, and build a fake box made out of cardboard with the same dimensions. That way you could see where it fits in your car. Before you purchase it. And I would give JL audio a call, and see what amp would work best for that subwoofer 🔊 you don’t want to over do it with a giant amp
Sounds like an expensive lesson. Depending on how much volume you want, two 8's or two 10's in a truck box built to fit under the back seat would sound great. I bought two Rockville K6 10's, a Rockville DB15 1000 watt RMS Class D two channel Amp and I hand built the box. It was for my 2014 GMV Sierra 4 door. It was one of the best sound systems I ever had and it was cheap as fuck.
You’ve way over thought this lol.. hook up the amp.. return all of that crap.. get a box made to go under the seat for 2 8”s.. run some jl w6”’s, dc audio level 3’s m, DD 608’s.. evl some skar evl’s.. it will be way cheaper then this.. be way louder then all of that combined even if you somehow managed to get it all in there and properly tune it all.. It will take up no more space then the 8 and 6 box side by side under the rear seats.. Forget that lc2.. get the factory specific t harness from pac audio that will plug and play into the back of the factory radio and do everything you need it to do.. they will have a vehicle specific kit to add an amp and sub and work with all the right canbus issues from modern day trucks.. I’m betting that has vehicle speed adjusted sound as well as a noise canceling system that plays through the sterio that works off the mic for when road noise picks up it puts a tone through the speakers to make the vehicle sound like it has less road noise then it does.. you can try 10c till Sunday to hook up stuff but you can’t bypass that crap.. it will ruin any signal you’re sending you your subs bo mater of how you set this up.. You’re hacking the hell out of this truck lol.. pac audio kit.. if you want you could run the lc2 after the pac t harness package.. it still has a functioning dsp system and will make for s cleaner signal going to the amp. The lc2 alone won’t work in terms of a stand alone in most modern vehicles cause if the blocs canceling system. Your pack it with come with an additional harness that plugs in between the blocs canceling unit and the radio so the signal going to the lc2 will bypass that and remain clean signal. If you really wanted to and for what you’ve spent already.. I’d say return the lc2 and swap it for an audio control epic center. (Catch here you’ll need someone that knows how to set it up properly for the sub tune on the box you use.) while they are doing that may as well lay them to also adjust the amp gain properly for you as well cause that is super important part of all this.. but that epic center setup right will allow you to have the same base from a bass track at x note as you do from a country song at B note in a basic way of putting it. While doing all that.. remove the entire factory sub.. I was typing so I missed what you did for ground wires but there will be a factory ground point somewhere near that factory sub.. you can reuse that. In the cab if s pickup 6’s and 8’s will perform the best because of the way sound works in the cabins of a truck.. 3/4 if your heard sound from 10’s and larger subs will be outside your vehicle not inside.. basically your cab becomes the speaker box and you’re essentially sitting in the port.. to verify this.. roll down the passenger window a couple inches.. if it gets louder and deeper base when you do this then this is the case.. you’re missing a lot of sound that way and it will actually sound better outside the cab then inside which defeats the entire point of doing any of this.. Two DC level 3 8’s would work well with that amp you have. They work very well in small truck tyoe air space boxes and you’ll be louder then 96% of bass heads who are running 4 12’s or something stupid in the cab of their truck lol. It will be louder then you’ll ever want it to be.. bout 138-141db at volume 😅. And last thing.. please stop doing any of this yourself.. screen shot this post go to a local audio shop with good reputation and tell them to give you something like I said… wire it all up for you and everything lol. Cause all these splices covered in electrical tape and such is horrible 😂😂. And you might be the first person I’ve ever seen butcher the rear cab air vents like that! This is epic fail on almost every point and for all the money you invested in this you could actually have had a very well rounded and very good system properly installed and tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.. I almost feel like this is a troll video here cause this is like bails on a chalk board to even someone who has a minor clue
Leave the aid alone don’t worry about The 6 inch sub find the one that is factory replace that with the Rockford because it’s preamp go and change the crossover that is connected to sub in the cabinet not to jl and find The levels and then listen and then cut on that Jl If you can hear it over that rock for Fosgate there you go you got it
Sounds like some good advice man, sent back the rock already though. Got the 15 min bed and the 12 in the back. Keeping the 8 turned all the way down. I should have probably just went simpler
Sorry for the late response. All of the boxes were reported, except for the factory box from the Sony Ford upgrade. All the other speakers are imported boxes.
If you want good bass you can get either 6 Ct sounds meso 6.5 with no seat lift or 4 Ct sound meso 8 inch with a 2.5 inch seat lift. Then go to sounds good stereo and get a custom made amp rack for behind the back seat: get a 3000 watt sundown audio SIA amp. It’s way better, cheaper and you will have 20x more bass then your set up you want to do: you will be at 140 DB or more. If you need any help let me know.
Trade the 8 inch powered micro+ for the 12inch and I promise you will not need anything else. I had one in my vw Eos hardtop convertible and it was insane!!!. I'm about to put that 6.5 box in my tour pack on my harley ;)
O, and the Audio Control LC2i is a great product. Worth every penny. And if you want to get the best sound quality possible, do some sound treatment on the doors, buy an epicenter and get someone who knows how to tune it and have them tune it for your vehicle. Night and day difference. It'll be like you're at a fuckin IMax theater. Seriously, the first time my friend rode in my truck after I had everything done right, he thought the sound of thunder in a song was actually fucking thunder.....it was crazy.
everything you talked about screamed newbie please take this to a shop sell or trade all that equipment for a proper setup based off the truck you have you got the money to pay a shop
1 you don’t want to mix sub sizes as each has its design. 2 you want sub facing away from you as sub is more resonance than directional. What I do in a supercrew is use a pair 12’s in ported box facing to the rear of the cab. I’ve tried all directions over the decades and it matters. I choose to only use 1/3 seat but I can remove my box as I use connectors to it. 3. You don’t want a 15 in the bed like that as all you will get is rattling outside in the box and 0 inside… trust me I have tried this a few ways and it’s a fail always.
Basically you want awesome sound. 3 options. 36” long box behind the driver seat facing subs back. 12 are punchy and 15’s are an option or 3 or 4 10’s are an option. Next option is a pass though from bed but you loose half bed permanently. Or 3 rd option is a wall and loose all back seat. The first is what I do. I have plugs on my box behind my seat so if I do need to haul 4/5 people I can disconnect my sub box and slam it in the bed for the trip or leave it home. I also have a small slim 2 10 box I can slip in and still have my passenger space just can’t crank it loud but wouldn’t want to with passengers. 99.8% the time I’m fine with the 2/3 side rear seat up and my sub. Leaves me my front seats and a single seat in the back with the 1/3 seat behind the passenger seat. My youngest is 21 so don’t have kids to concern myself with anymore.
Also get rid that factory amp and head unit. JUNK! It’s not as hard as you think. It’s JUNK. I’d put my F150 up against yours for sound quality or SPL any day with my setup and I guarantee you’d want mine over yours. Hahah.
Not correct on the hitting hard by size. There are more factors involved than just raw size. You have to account for enclosure ported or not ported and vehicle air volume etc etc. when you hit the sweet spot and tuning range you want it’s magical.
smaller subs hit HARD ,, but bigger subs play LOUDer ,, its like the snap of the bass hit is better the smaller,, like rock in roll music go will small ones ,,, rap go with bigger ones
This is a "shit show." You're in over your head and going about it all wrong. But if it turns out good and you're happy, that's all that matters. Good luck, bro
I spent a rediculous amount of time angling, positioning, moving my 15" sub box around in the rear of my 96' chevy, the 'best' position for the deepest and best sounding bass WAS on the passenger side rear with speaker & port hole facing the outside side.
U can hook the 15 and the 12 together as long as they are in different boxes I'm pretty sure they are both 4 ohm single voice coil wired together in parellel with have a 2 ohm final load hook them 2 subs up to ur alpine 1k amp it is 2 ohm stable turn the gain up and give it hell they will sound great.
JL subs doesn't come in the ohm loads you're mentioning. Also you shouldn't run different subs together because of wave cancelation it'll cause will make'em sound like shit. And you shouldn't use 2 different subs on the same amp channel because the impedance will be different for each speaker. Bro you're full of bad advice.
@@rawphysique JL is a good brand. they are largely hated because they are expensive per how loud they are. they focus more on SQ, so the SPL crowd hates on them for not being what THEY want.
If u want awesome sound, output, and still be able to have all your seating area? Then ✔️ out Gately Audio, he makes Beautiful, Awesome, subwoofer enclosures, and has specific under the backseat enclosures that can fit (6 Qty., 6.5 inch), or (4 Qty., 8 inch,with a back seat lift kit), subwoofers in ported enclosures, and many other designs/enclosure configs., they cost alot, but u get what u pay for=mind blowing perf., great build quality, great looks, and all of your seating space! Go to steve meads youtube ch., where he puts in the 6- 6.5 inch under seat gately audio ported enclosure, with b2 audio subwoofers, ran off of a 2500 watt amp, and hits over a 140 Db!
![2024's BEST SHALLOW MOUNT CAR SUBWOOFERS [TOP 17 Best Shallow Mount Subwoofer For Car Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QaIe6ah0gbY/mqdefault.jpg)
the fact you put a single sub in the bed of your pickup that's not even connected to your cab is hilarious. I can't believe this. lol thank you
Your comment let me know not to finish this video
Excellent video. It shows everything you should NOT be doing when planning (well no planning here) and installing audio system in your vehicle. The again, he is a Swiftie.
Bro.... My guy. I promise you I'm not trying to be an ass but...
1. Take all of that back except the amp. You can keep that. Looks like monoblock and Alpine is good quality.
2. Disconnect the power wire. Fuse it. Before the amp. Or run a fused distribution block.
3. Google the following: Insert year make and model of the vehicle and add under seat box at the end.
4. Pick a box that matches and is either sealed or tuned somewhere in the 30's. Hey the net cubic feet and how many subs it fits.
5. Find matching subs that add up to the total net cubic feet of the box and the RMS rating of the amp.
6. If you decide to go your own way no worries. But fuse that power wire behind the seat somewhere. Only you can prevent forest fires.
Real advice with a little tongue in cheek,
The Original Wis
Good "sound" advice and you said it nicer than I could.
Great video bro lol it gave me a good chuckle
Glad you enjoyed it lol
I’d recommend looking at the TW3 12 loaded enclosure for under your seat or the TW5 13.5 loaded enclosure for under the seat as well to experiment with.
I tried to follow you as you went back and forth. Just have someone build you a custom enclosure for under the back seat for two 10's. You will be happy.
I don't get the 15" sub in the bed, outside. How's that going to make it sound good in the cab?
It actually does rumble the cab, no joke. You can only feel the thump and lower bass tones, but it’s definitely there!
I have the JL CP106LG-3WV3 6.5" powered by Alpine mono amp 150W @ 4 Ohms D-class in the back seat of my Cayman sports car. I agree that this little ported box hits hard & clean quality music. Planning to add one more for driver back seat.
The subs in the bed w the cut out is called a blow thru👍
Thanks bro 👍👍
This is funny. I had the same thinking as you a while back. I had one 15, two 10s, and three 8s, along with a 6.5 sub in each door. I thought for sure I would get all frequency of bass. I was wrong, they were right. Frequencies start canceling each other out. Sold it all and just picked up 2 matching 15s. So much louder when the 2 subs are working together
Two 15s are my fav setup for any car/truck that’ll fit them
The only way to make it work is to get a full-on DSP and sound mics to set each speaker within a set range that they excel in.
@@JayRSwan yes, but much easier and requires less specialty equipment to just match your speakers. I'm much happier with matching 15s. Also when I first got them I had each sub on different amps but since I've upgraded to a single amp that is stable at half ohm it is much better.
@@jacoblittle3209 For sure! I bet those two 15's sound amazing! Cheers 🍻
I have used my JL Audio 500/1 for 20yrs. in multiple systems always using a JL 10W3v3 that REALLY does work!#JLAudio🔊❤️
Since you seem to favor JL Audio, you may think about getting a JL Stealthbox. They are vehicle specific and are intended to sound the best AND keep your seat and floor space. And if you want better, remove your rear seat and there are unlimited brands and boxes that will blow your mind.
And they cost like $1000 fuckin dollars.
Just buy a pre fab box made for you vehicle and some decent subsa with 1000 watt amplifier easy sound will be amazing
So you think I should get JL Audio speakers to put in grand marquis I just want my speakers to sound good and i don't want my music to be heard outside just inside the car
If it was me, I would definitely go with JL, audio speakers. The size is completely up to you! If you’re trying to have a a subwoofer with good bass inside of the car for your own pleasure, I think the 6 1/2 would provide all that for you. Or if you turn it up very loud, even that 6 1/2 punches loud enough to be heard outside of the car. But having some type of a subwoofer, definitely helps the audio experience inside of the car.
@@rawphysique what about JL Audio 6.5 subwoofer
@@rawphysique I just want a small box cause I want my space in my trunk I don't want the car to rattle and I want enough bass in the car so when I'm cruising I'm enjoying the music. My brother have skar audio speakers but I want something that's going to sound good so I was thinking get 1 6.5 subwoofer I don't need all that noise ya see
@@chiefbubba2581 yah man, I was talking about the 6.5 ported JL Audio subwoofer (6 1/2) what I called it. It’s good, and doesn’t take up to much space. You’ll need an amp to push it though. And also, I would go get the dimensions of that speaker off of the JL audio website, and build a fake box made out of cardboard with the same dimensions. That way you could see where it fits in your car. Before you purchase it. And I would give JL audio a call, and see what amp would work best for that subwoofer 🔊 you don’t want to over do it with a giant amp
@@rawphysique yeah I don't want no amp that's going to blow ya see
Sounds like an expensive lesson. Depending on how much volume you want, two 8's or two 10's in a truck box built to fit under the back seat would sound great. I bought two Rockville K6 10's, a Rockville DB15 1000 watt RMS Class D two channel Amp and I hand built the box. It was for my 2014 GMV Sierra 4 door. It was one of the best sound systems I ever had and it was cheap as fuck.
I was looking at that JL audio under the seat 13 inch subwoofer. Suuuuuper expensive though! That sounds like a bad ass set up you have there
Get the MTI dual tw3 10s for behind the seat
You’ve way over thought this lol.. hook up the amp.. return all of that crap.. get a box made to go under the seat for 2 8”s.. run some jl w6”’s, dc audio level 3’s m, DD 608’s.. evl some skar evl’s.. it will be way cheaper then this.. be way louder then all of that combined even if you somehow managed to get it all in there and properly tune it all..
It will take up no more space then the 8 and 6 box side by side under the rear seats..
Forget that lc2.. get the factory specific t harness from pac audio that will plug and play into the back of the factory radio and do everything you need it to do.. they will have a vehicle specific kit to add an amp and sub and work with all the right canbus issues from modern day trucks..
I’m betting that has vehicle speed adjusted sound as well as a noise canceling system that plays through the sterio that works off the mic for when road noise picks up it puts a tone through the speakers to make the vehicle sound like it has less road noise then it does.. you can try 10c till Sunday to hook up stuff but you can’t bypass that crap.. it will ruin any signal you’re sending you your subs bo mater of how you set this up..
You’re hacking the hell out of this truck lol.. pac audio kit.. if you want you could run the lc2 after the pac t harness package.. it still has a functioning dsp system and will make for s cleaner signal going to the amp. The lc2 alone won’t work in terms of a stand alone in most modern vehicles cause if the blocs canceling system. Your pack it with come with an additional harness that plugs in between the blocs canceling unit and the radio so the signal going to the lc2 will bypass that and remain clean signal. If you really wanted to and for what you’ve spent already.. I’d say return the lc2 and swap it for an audio control epic center. (Catch here you’ll need someone that knows how to set it up properly for the sub tune on the box you use.) while they are doing that may as well lay them to also adjust the amp gain properly for you as well cause that is super important part of all this.. but that epic center setup right will allow you to have the same base from a bass track at x note as you do from a country song at B note in a basic way of putting it.
While doing all that.. remove the entire factory sub.. I was typing so I missed what you did for ground wires but there will be a factory ground point somewhere near that factory sub.. you can reuse that.
In the cab if s pickup 6’s and 8’s will perform the best because of the way sound works in the cabins of a truck.. 3/4 if your heard sound from 10’s and larger subs will be outside your vehicle not inside.. basically your cab becomes the speaker box and you’re essentially sitting in the port.. to verify this.. roll down the passenger window a couple inches.. if it gets louder and deeper base when you do this then this is the case.. you’re missing a lot of sound that way and it will actually sound better outside the cab then inside which defeats the entire point of doing any of this..
Two DC level 3 8’s would work well with that amp you have. They work very well in small truck tyoe air space boxes and you’ll be louder then 96% of bass heads who are running 4 12’s or something stupid in the cab of their truck lol. It will be louder then you’ll ever want it to be.. bout 138-141db at volume 😅.
And last thing.. please stop doing any of this yourself.. screen shot this post go to a local audio shop with good reputation and tell them to give you something like I said… wire it all up for you and everything lol. Cause all these splices covered in electrical tape and such is horrible 😂😂.
And you might be the first person I’ve ever seen butcher the rear cab air vents like that! This is epic fail on almost every point and for all the money you invested in this you could actually have had a very well rounded and very good system properly installed and tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.. I almost feel like this is a troll video here cause this is like bails on a chalk board to even someone who has a minor clue
Damn I would have payed you to hook up everything lol
Great info man
Leave the aid alone don’t worry about The 6 inch sub find the one that is factory replace that with the Rockford because it’s preamp go and change the crossover that is connected to sub in the cabinet not to jl and find The levels and then listen and then cut on that Jl If you can hear it over that rock for Fosgate there you go you got it
Sounds like some good advice man, sent back the rock already though. Got the 15 min bed and the 12 in the back. Keeping the 8 turned all the way down. I should have probably just went simpler
His name Marlin and his channel is called MB Enclosures. He builtme a box with 2 8" subs and it bangs. Thank me later. 😂
Bitchin. Real world video here. Subscribed
Sooo, what did you do because I'm confused AF. And I don't think I can finish this video. And the funny thing is, I'm an installer.
This gave me a headache.
lol I was like is this serious?! 🤣
Good video, where these all ported or sealed?
Sorry for the late response. All of the boxes were reported, except for the factory box from the Sony Ford upgrade. All the other speakers are imported boxes.
And those are called “bass knobs” not “adjuster thingy” just fyi.
Or gain knobs
If you want good bass you can get either 6 Ct sounds meso 6.5 with no seat lift or 4 Ct sound meso 8 inch with a 2.5 inch seat lift. Then go to sounds good stereo and get a custom made amp rack for behind the back seat: get a 3000 watt sundown audio SIA amp. It’s way better, cheaper and you will have 20x more bass then your set up you want to do: you will be at 140 DB or more. If you need any help let me know.
Trade the 8 inch powered micro+ for the 12inch and I promise you will not need anything else. I had one in my vw Eos hardtop convertible and it was insane!!!.
I'm about to put that 6.5 box in my tour pack on my harley ;)
Also the Ct sound meso 8’s has 15 MM of xmas which is more then the 15 inch JL so it will go lower and be more punchy.
Brosepth, you’re right my phone does not do the bass any justice. I just heard a sh*t Ton of rattling. 😂
O, and the Audio Control LC2i is a great product. Worth every penny. And if you want to get the best sound quality possible, do some sound treatment on the doors, buy an epicenter and get someone who knows how to tune it and have them tune it for your vehicle. Night and day difference. It'll be like you're at a fuckin IMax theater. Seriously, the first time my friend rode in my truck after I had everything done right, he thought the sound of thunder in a song was actually fucking thunder.....it was crazy.
Cool, thanks for the info! I’ll have to check out an epicenter
LMI welding has 2.5 inch back seat move forward set ups and also 2.5 and 3.5 seat lifts
Has anyone put 4 of the 10 inch JL audio w0v3 subs under a seat with a 3.5 inch seat lift?
I have 1 15 inch American bass in a ported box running off 500 wat rms it's all u need really
everything you talked about screamed newbie please take this to a shop sell or trade all that equipment for a proper setup based off the truck you have you got the money to pay a shop
If you already cut the back of your truck. Get 2 CT sounds meso 10’s with a 3000 watt sundown sia amp and I promise you will be hitting almost 150 db.
1 you don’t want to mix sub sizes as each has its design. 2 you want sub facing away from you as sub is more resonance than directional. What I do in a supercrew is use a pair 12’s in ported box facing to the rear of the cab. I’ve tried all directions over the decades and it matters. I choose to only use 1/3 seat but I can remove my box as I use connectors to it. 3. You don’t want a 15 in the bed like that as all you will get is rattling outside in the box and 0 inside… trust me I have tried this a few ways and it’s a fail always.
Basically you want awesome sound. 3 options. 36” long box behind the driver seat facing subs back. 12 are punchy and 15’s are an option or 3 or 4 10’s are an option. Next option is a pass though from bed but you loose half bed permanently. Or 3 rd option is a wall and loose all back seat. The first is what I do. I have plugs on my box behind my seat so if I do need to haul 4/5 people I can disconnect my sub box and slam it in the bed for the trip or leave it home. I also have a small slim 2 10 box I can slip in and still have my passenger space just can’t crank it loud but wouldn’t want to with passengers. 99.8% the time I’m fine with the 2/3 side rear seat up and my sub. Leaves me my front seats and a single seat in the back with the 1/3 seat behind the passenger seat. My youngest is 21 so don’t have kids to concern myself with anymore.
Also get rid that factory amp and head unit. JUNK! It’s not as hard as you think. It’s JUNK. I’d put my F150 up against yours for sound quality or SPL any day with my setup and I guarantee you’d want mine over yours. Hahah.
Not correct on the hitting hard by size. There are more factors involved than just raw size. You have to account for enclosure ported or not ported and vehicle air volume etc etc. when you hit the sweet spot and tuning range you want it’s magical.
Bro you need those sub woofers pointing up not down
I gotta go with 2 12s in my Ram 🐏 kicker 💪🏽
Change your door speakers and put a new amp for those and your sound system will be hell of a lot better and just keep one sub
Maybe get a 500 watt amp and get the dual version of that 8” jl micro sub
just go sealed(with appropriate box and driver) instead. you are trading less bass volume for better sound
I can’t even😂
Daisy chain a term used with rca jacks what ur talking about is parellel wiring pos to pos neg to neg everywhere
Try the 13tw5v2..
I was thinking about that actually $$$ though lol
I have never watched a video where you talk so much but I could not hear any of the subs lol
I finally know why crutch field exists 😂😂😂😂
How’d you know where I got that stuff from lmao?!! Well I did already had the 15 and amp
lol flew over his head lollll
smaller subs hit HARD ,, but bigger subs play LOUDer ,, its like the snap of the bass hit is better the smaller,, like rock in roll music go will small ones ,,, rap go with bigger ones
And did you just say " to make a long story short"?
This is a "shit show." You're in over your head and going about it all wrong. But if it turns out good and you're happy, that's all that matters. Good luck, bro
Felt like I was drowning lol
Jerry wants his can back
If you’re going to keep the 12” sub, turn the driver & port to you, away from the door!
Port and speaker 🔈 away from the door at pointed into the cab? Hey I’ll try it
I spent a rediculous amount of time angling, positioning, moving my 15" sub box around in the rear of my 96' chevy, the 'best' position for the deepest and best sounding bass WAS on the passenger side rear with speaker & port hole facing the outside side.
You sound vaccinated af
If you looking for a better solution I can help just let me know
Thanks man I appreciate it! I’ll hit you up if I mess with the system again for sure 🔊
i think best of the best for mi is 12inch, hehe
U can hook the 15 and the 12 together as long as they are in different boxes I'm pretty sure they are both 4 ohm single voice coil wired together in parellel with have a 2 ohm final load hook them 2 subs up to ur alpine 1k amp it is 2 ohm stable turn the gain up and give it hell they will sound great.
JL subs doesn't come in the ohm loads you're mentioning. Also you shouldn't run different subs together because of wave cancelation it'll cause will make'em sound like shit. And you shouldn't use 2 different subs on the same amp channel because the impedance will be different for each speaker. Bro you're full of bad advice.
Pull the 15 out of the truck bed. Not worth wasting the wattage to drive it.
Having the 12 facing to the side is gonna throw ur sound off horribly face the sub facing towards to rear always
It's not the bass setting off it watch it's the treble
rocksssford fosttgatee lmao
Bro, underseat box with 8s …DONE!
15s are were its at
I can’t agree more 👍👍
Terrible brand to do the test on
What do you consider the best brand of subwoofer?
they have always thundered for me
@@rawphysique JL is a good brand. they are largely hated because they are expensive per how loud they are. they focus more on SQ, so the SPL crowd hates on them for not being what THEY want.
@@mustang351c4 lol, hey and thanks for the info man 👍
I'm a Sundown Audio guy myself. You want loud with good sound quality, check em out
P r o m o s m 🌟
Great music! Informative video.
Go check out MBE enclosure channel for truck boxes
If u want awesome sound, output, and still be able to have all your seating area? Then ✔️ out Gately Audio, he makes Beautiful, Awesome, subwoofer enclosures, and has specific under the backseat enclosures that can fit (6 Qty., 6.5 inch), or (4 Qty., 8 inch,with a back seat lift kit), subwoofers in ported enclosures, and many other designs/enclosure configs., they cost alot, but u get what u pay for=mind blowing perf., great build quality, great looks, and all of your seating space! Go to steve meads youtube ch., where he puts in the 6- 6.5 inch under seat gately audio ported enclosure, with b2 audio subwoofers, ran off of a 2500 watt amp, and hits over a 140 Db!