Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
lol, omg yeah I owe everyone at least that. I heard RUclips shutting down videos using copy written music in them. I’ll find something I can test with and post a link to a part two. Maybe I’ll get some db or spl meters too… stay tuned.
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
W0 and W3 have been JL's bread and butter for years and years.. huge JL fan.. have two of the original / amps still goin in the truck. Excellent re purpose of the zook tube.. and your right they sounded fantastic for what they were and intended for!
Thanks man, the tube was right in the spec for the enclosure size for the w3 requirements. It sounds so dang good… I ended up ordering another tube and speaker to get the most out of the amp… pending FedEx deliver. Can’t wait!
I use these in my car. Tuned them for 19Hz minimum. They handle a lot of super-deep bass, although not as loud as a larger woofer. They have almost the perfect T&S parameters for clean bass. It's why I chose them as my second set of subs vs the previous speakers.
Awesome, are you referring to the tube enclosure or the JL 6w3? The combo (I eventually did a second one) sounds like a sealed 10” to me in terms of accuracy but with deeper, smoother lower hz. I agree, great for sq.
@@Wallymakesstuff Just the JL6w3 (x2 speakers). I made my own custom subwoofer box for the rear of the car. Sounds sweet. Really punchy and deep for the size of box! Well impressed with how they handle for the size of cone. :)
@@PrincipalAudio ah, yes - they are sweet sounding little subs. My friends have all been shocked when I show them what’s driving the lows. I’m running 1000 rms to my component speakers and only 250 rms to the two subs and it matches up perfectly.
Idk why anyone would tune that low because unless you’re bumping decaf, chopped and screwed or rebassed songs most if not all song stay between 30-40hz only time you’ll ever see anything that low is in a home theater application.
I have a Vizio soundbar I got probably 7 or more years ago. I swapped the original 6.5 inch with the exact same JL driver. Didn't even change the amp, now it keeps up with my paradigm V10. The JL w3 at the time was the same price I spent on the entire soundbar🤣🤣, but it is crazy loud and low with much cleaner bass. Nice vid! Gives me ideas with my tiny car🍻
Thanks for the comment! Somehow JL has been able to hit every nail on the head with these… .25 cu ft of volume in a ported box is all you need to hit their tuning spec. And optimal at 125w rms, yet low sensitivity to hit a broad frequency of sub bass frequencies. Would love to hear how yours goes!
I had two 8s in a truck back in 2000 . Put two Rockford’s in the tube’s and faced them towards each other they hit pretty hard . Facing them together makes a huge difference !
That’s awesome, I never would have thought of that. I was going to face them away from each other towards opposite corners but the left side won’t fit that way 😥. Too much steel from the seat in the way, but I’ll remember that next time I do a build with the right layout. Thanks for the constructive comment!
@@Wallymakesstuff I tried them in every direction and facing together was night and day . I don’t know why but it worked well for the truck I had them in . Mine was sas bazooka tubes . At the time I looked at all different brands and sas seemed to be the best quality . After coming across this I’d like to build a set again ! Brings back some good memories . You did a whole lot better job at installing the speakers than I did . I just screwed them in the way the tube comes .
@@Leonard-hk1nf thanks, I just saw there were more hole in the JL, and took that to assume I should probably use them lol. These tubes were also made by sas. I’m sure some things have changed, but for the price - even the subs that come in them are pretty decent. If you’re looking for spl you can’t go wrong there, but if you want a bit more musical tone, the JL subs are superior.
I did a very similar thing with an old 8” Bazooka tube I had left over from 20 years ago. I swapped the old driver with an 8” JL W7 powered by a 600watt USAcoustics amp. Needless to say it was pretty impressive. Every thought I was running a pair of 12’s and they were baffled when they couldn’t find a large box in the back of my Suburban.
I’ll be putting up a part 2 to this video with some recordings of the performance once I can get my hands on some non copy written tunes. Maybe a db or spl meter too… maybe a second sub as well. Subscribe to stay tuned. (Pun intended). Part two is up, see ⬆️
They sell them brand new on Amazon in many different sizes. I’m glad I found this video. I literally forgot about them. I’m definitely gonna get a few. lol
I've got one in my 2000 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab in the rear passenger floor board and i think it sounds great for what it is. I've always gone with Middle of the road Pioneer 10's and that bazooka tube i'd say put out about 80% of the bass. I mean, it is an 8'' Sub so maybe its just what 8's sound like. The backseat is super cramped in those trucks and rarely does anyone ride back there.
An 8” bazooka is more than enough in a crew cab imo. I went with 6” to fit them under the seat. Two 6” should be somewhere around a single 8”-10” depending on the sub.
Ive never had a bazooka tube, but i had one of the 12" kicker substations (unpowered) ..ive been watching ebay for about 16 years and have only seen one come up during a point where i had 0 extra cash..still watching for them
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
Awesome job. I have one of these subs mounted in the center console of my Jeep Wrangler. I removed the factory amp and I had to make a ring out of MDF to get it deep enough.
My buddy Don say I invented the bass tube early 80's, because I took a 4-in magnum woofer and put it inside a 5-gallon Miracle Whip container and that joker had so much bass you would never think it was coming from a 4-inch speaker.. the magnet on that speaker was huge
That’s so awesome! I was tempted to do a diy tube with PVC pipes but since I already had this one leftover, went this route. I’m surprised more manufacturers aren’t using tubes, honestly.
@@Wallymakesstuff- In the SPL realm, pvc tubes have been know to set world records! The much thicker, and stronger pvc tubes, can withstand tremendous pressure!
Wow… maybe I’ll have to make that a side project someday. These seem to work fine for a small sub, but I could imagine some of those nasty deep 12”+ subs would need some serious tubing.
Box (tubes) can be a packaging nightmare and are more complicated to build and tune... Especially ported. I build many tubes, but you're best to shop specifications of the sub, your listening preferences and space for installation. I used cardboard concrete tube forms from Lowes or other home centers as a perfectly round form. I purchased poly cloth from fabric stores as the matrix and standard Bondo resin. I made a rotisserie type jig to hold and spin the form as I brushed on resin and rolled on the polyester matrix sheet. On the JL 8w3's... My tube length was somewhere around 19-21" and I made a second tube about 1/4- 3/8" larger than the sub's basket diameter. That allowed me to peripheral vent/port the tube to the tuning I desired based on computer design programs. The 8's were tuned for maximum dB centered at 55hz. They out performed 10's and 12's with much less power and space. I think 150-175wrms each. I haven't used W7's or some high end dB competition 8's, but there's no need really with W3's in a properly built and tuned tube. @Wallymakesstuff
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
If your door cards are dark-coloured they will probably be all right, but I tried putting similar damping stuff on the back of the plastic door cards in my car (they are light grey) and in a few years their change in colour where the damping was mounted was very visible. Evidently whatever oil they use in the material works its way through the plastic. I ripped it all off before it became worse. Nice work on the repurposing of the Bazooka tube BTW. The only thing I might have done different is use a speakon terminal for the connector.
Thanks for the insight. I’ve had good luck with this particular brand of material on the past 4 cars, but I have heard horror stories like yours. And all my cars have been dark in color… so good to be weary of that.
@@evilinside5984 I put the deadener on the metal frame of the door as well. The OP mentioned in his video that he applied it to the door cards too, hence my post.
Did you factor tube volume compared to JL's TS parameters? I built 2 handmade fiberglass tube's for the 8w3's and one for 13w3 using JL's parameters. I designed a complete peripheral port around the subs diameter...a tube within a tube. The 8's were louder and extremely punchy for kick drum tracks. The 13 was very deep, clean and fat. I also did what "experts" claim you shouldn't... Ran all three on a single JL XD 600.1 Turns out, it was perfectly fine and music quality and volume rivaled mor3 powerful, more expensive systems.
Dude that is brilliant! I’ve been thinking of doing something similar using epoxy resin with concrete form tubes for a downfiring sub in our home. I did run the numbers for JL spec and it lined up perfectly for the volume of the bazooka tube. In fact, I thought of making these from pvc, but when I saw the spec was just right and I had that extra old tube, that’s when I chose to go this route. I’d love to hear what you built!
Ik this is an old video but keep in mind the way you had it set up for a factory radio will be much different for an aftermarket radio the tube itself is fine you just have to adjust your gain properly as a factory radio doesn’t deliver the power like an aftermarket radio can, not to mention rca sub outputs on an after market receiver do output some voltage, hence why you see 2v pre out vs 4v pre out and a lot of professionals say that 2v pre outs are the bare minimum!
@@Wallymakesstuff that it is...i Always been A Fosgate kindda guy.. Still running em in my rides... 1 day..ill have a Skar or Sundown or DefBounce..or DD..its up to how you love your muscic...I love my high n mids with a Nice tight PUNCH...
@@lambertleigh2724yeah man absolutely… too many options! Good problems to have… I went with JL so I could maximize sql without having to add another 1000w amp… didn’t want to go past 1500rms and then deal with 0ga wire, new alternator etc… very happy with them, but for sure a deeper throw like the sundown and skar would be sick!
Just a heads up on your noise dampening material. Asphalt flashing is absolutely NOT the same thing. Though they may have some of the same properties, they are much different. The flashing is rubberized asphalt. It's the absolute worst stuff you can use in your car during hot weather. Cold, it stays reasonably pliable but, loses a lot of it's dampening properties. Here in Vegas, your car will smell like freshly laid asphalt and it's horrendously strong. After about 150-200 degrees F it'll melt and yellow stain everything due to the sulfur used in asphalt to help extend the life. Once it cools again, your asphalt will peel off. There are two types of stuff the sound deadening is made of. The first is made from what's known as "mass loaded vinyl". It's usually PVC mixed with barium or calcium chloride. That prevents the PVC from hardening turning it into more like a super thick silly putty. The other and most popular due to cost and ease of production is a butyl copolymer rubber. Brands like: HushMat, Kilmat, Dynamat, etc. are made of a butyl rubber mix. Butyl rubber doesn't degass, has a MUCH bigger temp range, and last 10 times longer than the rubberized asphalt. There is a brand of butyl flashing sold at Home Depot and Lowes called Typar Butyl Flashing Tape. I would agree that is basically the same as sound deadening but, they are nowhere near as thick and dense. However, the Peel & Seal brand you are showing is rubberized sulfur asphalt and the sulfur off gas is absolutely poisonous. This is a quote, from Peel & Seal's website, on the composition: "Composed of an exclusive formula (consisting of laminated aluminized foil, high-density polymer films and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt), Peel & Seal® provides a long lasting, durable, maintenance-free roofing surface."
Wow that’s crazy. I had no idea… I’ve used this stuff on all of my previous vehicles and never had a problem with it. Granted, I don’t live in Vegas, but doesn’t sound like it’s worth the risk.
Do you have a link for that sound deadener? Great idea. Did you say denim? Everything was awesome, but you messed up with the one trim piece. Watch your video at 2:14 and then again at 6:26. That should go under the woofer. Not a big deal, but it will clean up the look of the port. Overall, you have inspired me. I have a convertible that I am struggling to get decent sound in.
Peel and Seal - Lowes stocks it and has the best price on it. www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733?idProductFound=false&idExtracted=false As for the trim, yeah I couldn’t get it to wrap around the outside of the JL sub, which has a wider outer rim. All good, I have the sub pointing toward the back wall of the cab so you can’t see how funky it is anyway.
I’d have to try it to know, however, I couldn’t even fit a 10” under this seat, it’s just too low, and with a box that shallow, it would take up all my storage space, vs these tubes allow room for all my tools. I’ll say though, the pair of them sounds like a decent quality 10” to my ears anyway, and less boomy. So if you’re after saving space and SQ, this is a great way to go.
Thank you - the peel and seal was from Lowe’s. I’ve had some feedback from people on this video to avoid using it in hot climates though due to off gassing. I haven’t had any problems with it. The denim insulation used to be a stock item at Lowe’s and Home Depot but you might need to search online for it.
Anyone tested what the "tube" was tuned to originally? Im guessing around 50hz. I dont doubt that this sounds better than the original tube, and seems like a fun project. That being said, i think I could find plenty of other uses for JL quality subs. Alot of complicated math comes into boxes, especially when ported. My problem with Bazooka Tubes was the marketing. They'd be fine for a mid tucked in a hatch or SUV. But never a replacement for an actual sub IMO. Im guessing even JL couldn't get low in a box like that.
I hear your point. I’m uploading an spl test that will be up shortly. They surprisingly get plenty low. It almost identically matches the cubic feet and vent requirements from JL. That’s one of the reasons I selected this sub.
@@Wallymakesstuff That's awesome to hear(no pun intended)! I wasn't trying to bash you in any way. Just in the same hobby. Any chance you could show a freq analyzer along with the SPL? I've downloaded many for my phone for free that are plenty accurate for such tests. I think this has potential to be good mid bass paired with a sub tuned low.
Yeah no worries man, I appreciate constructive feedback like that. Helps me think…. I’ll put the link to that video in the description to this video after this reply. I was using a frequency analyzer/spl combo. Unfortunately I held the phone in horizontal format when I took the screenshots so I had to crop it before inserting into the video. But just know the far left of the spectrum is 20hz. I like your idea about using this as a mid bass… it really drives around 150hz. Wonder what it would sound like with one ported and one sealed off? Maybe that would be an easy solution to get best of both worlds without adding another amp, crossover or dsp inline?
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
Good DIY project, IMO. Things I would've done differently: 1) Extend the whole tube for a lower Fs; 2) Used cheaper subs - to make the whole system be either a passive radiator or dual-opposed scheme; 3) Skipped the cheap binding post cup and mounted the binding posts right into the enclosure - at a much stronger location w/o the flex/bend/vibration of a plastic mounting cup; 4) The rest would be the same - ie: bitumen sheets for cabinet damping; recycled denim insulation for damping material; etc..... In my mind, this would yield greater benefits over simply keeping the stock-ish bass tube.....
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
It sounds awesome - but I’ve never heard this particular speaker in a wedge enclosure. All I can say is that I have never heard a 6.5” sub sound so good, and pack this much punch. Equivalent to a lot of single 10’s I’ve heard…
The enclosure is almost an afterthought with a lot of companies. Any help you can give a factory box is very noticeable. Got a Klipsch powered sub had a small rattle. Went nuts with fat mat. The port inside was cardboard 😂
I have a powered klipsch sub in my home stereo and was thinking of making a sealed box for it. The box it came with just felt thin and not right for the power it delivers. It puts out a lot of boomy bass that sounds more like box resonance than subwoofer sound. Maybe your solution is the way to do… did it sound better afterwards?
I have a Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport I want it the one with the hood scoop and 3 inch lift kit with 17 inch factory TRD rims with all-terrain tires after watching your video I want to get Head unit subs and amp lol I do rewrite my message I was using the talk to text feature earlier and it has a mind of it’s own at times 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks… there is a follow up with a sound demo: More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
@@Wallymakesstuff- Im not sure if you know about impedance fluctuations/rise, which occurs while playing music? Example: If you wired a single D4= dual 4 ohm subwoofer, and wired the 2 voice coils parr.= to a 2 ohm Load, on a 1 ohm stable amp, while playing music this resting impedance will swing/fluctuate/rise on average between 2x to 4x the initial impedance. So the speaker will only be getting between the amplifiers 4 ohm to 8 ohm power, while playing music. If using an amp rated 500 watts @ 1 ohm, 300 @ 2 ohm, 150 @ 4 ohm, and 75 @ 8 ohm, the average woofer wired to this amp @ 2 ohms, would be getting anywhere from 75 to 150 watts. This is why if you had 2 woofers rated for 250 watts rms each, it would be fine to use an amplifier that is 2x to 3x the woofers rated power. Also there are amplifiers that are designed to help fight impedance rise. Like JL, Rockford Fosgate, and Taramps Big Boss Bass 3k, that does 3,000 watts ( for $299 verified on amp dynos) and its smart tech. will make its 3k power @ all 3 of these impedances= @ 1/2 ohm, 1 ohm, and 2 ohms!
I was not aware of that! I’m powering this off a JL 250/1 (250w at 2 ohms). It’s drawing 4 right now which means it’s getting 150 per spec… when I run a second I’ll be at 2 ohms so 125 each…. But now it is sounding like that won’t be enough. I wouldn’t run another amp but didn’t want to have to run another 4ga cable plus probably a capacitor and upgrade the alternator. I have noticed JL amp specs seem under-rated. Anyhow, I hope I have enough… this sub calls for 125w rms as the ideal input so o figured since I’m using a JL amp rated at that level it should be about perfect.
@@Wallymakesstuff- Old school, 1 farrad type capacitors are useless= a waste of $. In the 90s when capacitors came out, the common taught knowledge was 1 farrad per 1,000 watts= such a lie! Now companies like XS Power, sell a 500 Farad, and 1,000 Farad Super capacitors, that are put into Battery cases, and can be ran under hood, but should be ran with a battery to have reserve power. I still prefer high output alternators, and AGM battery's, not Lithium(still too high of a % to catch fire imo, + they suck in cold weather like 32° and below) Also your 4ga. Power, and ground wire, if Full ( U.S. spec. ), and O.F.C= Oxygen Free Copper, it will support up to a 150 amp draw, @ up to 20Ft. of length, so way more than adequate, for up to an actual 1,500 watts of R.M.S. Power! If it's 4ga. CCA= Copper Clad Aluminum wire, its only good for 500 watts to 750 watts, depending on strand count/spec. I have been a Champion car audio competitor, for 30 years. On a team, testing everything under the sun. Actual power, with impedance rise was a huge eye opener! JL audio is a Quality amp/company, but if your wired to 4 ohms now, and 2 ohms, after adding the second JL woofer, while playing music, your JL 250/1 amp, will probably only be putting out between 75 to 150 watts. If you have the big 3 done, and full U.S. spec. 4ga O.F.C. Power and ground, your stock elec., can support 1500 watts, but you dont need that. A perfect match if staying with the expensive JL brand= the 1000/1, to account for imp. rise. Or for $299, you could get the Taramps Big Boss Bass 3k, and keep the gain low( so max amperage does not exceed 60 amp's or so) If your happy, who cares then, right? But just know, as good as it is, it could be much louder. When you get used to its loudness, and we ALL do, know that you can step it up.
Awesome to have feedback from a competitive audio guy, thanks for all of this! I am running 4ga ofc, about 16’. In addition to the JL amp I’m also running an ORION XTR 1000.4 to my door separates, so I’m at 1250 RMS. 75-150 is right in the sweet spot for these JL 6w3’s (according to JL anyway) In a side note since you’re old school - a friend of mine had a barely used set of ORION NT separates from the late 90’s. He gave them to me! I had to re-wire the tweeters due to a design flaw that arc’ed the wires. But man they’re fantastic… it’s an sq focused system, not so much spl… to my ears, plenty loud enough for me. I’ll be putting up some additional videos covering other aspects of the install in coming days. Stay tuned…
Yes sir. Part two is here: More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html Thank you for the inquiry
@@Wallymakesstuff very well made design with the JL. I have been surfing around your channel see what else cool stuff you gotta show some love to you bro take care
Brandon B. I grew up with had a 89’ CRX with (2) 18” Punch subs with the old 90’ Punch 650 amp and it was one of the baddest systems I can remember in early 90’s!#ThePunch🥊#RockfordFosgate#🔊❤️
@@bondalero0074 fuckkk that sounds crazy I found an old 300.1 bazooka amp completely brand new in the plastic and in original box like 50 bucks nobody wanted it on auction I really want the old Rockford fosgate punch set like 0.03% THD on a 5 channel or a 4 but they sell for like hundreds everytime
I’m 48 so when I was younger every one had after market systems in there vehicles the last system I had this was in 1999 I had three 10 inch JL Audio 10w sixes with Rock for Fosgate amplifier to the three subs Kenwood came out with a can’t remember if it was detachable face or not but the face folded down on this Kenwood head unit and when I fold it down you put the CD and then you hit the button in the face went back up and this was a normal size head unit not like head units today I had so many stereos Systems in my vehicles will always have one of my girlfriends back when I was younger that’s what every one was into I had a 1998 Toyota Silver what factory rims crown dip with Mickey Thompson tires but they were not off-road I mean all-terrain tires ski and snowboard rack and grill guards on the front and back and they were painted to match the truck with the big PIAA fog lights they were Amber and color they were halogen LEDs were an out back then
It measures .27 cf without the damping material, so I figured it dropped to about .25 after. Which is what JL recommends for a ported enclosure for this speaker. I did not include vent volume into the equation, just the tube.
This won't substitute for a live viewing but it's better than nothing - if you haven't seen the followup video: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=aL8XJIXXkEXo6bZ2
I did, watch part 2 ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=UqPTKel7EVx4O_Mu Had to find some non copywritten music first and fire up an old android so I could record and play at the same time.
Finished testing? Where is testing? I didnt liked your video ending because no demo sound was shown. Video is about making box. We can make also any kind of boxes for subs and say it sounds perfectly, but indeed it is crap🙂
back in the 90s the tubes were thick and sturdy now there garbage with cheap woofers and that dumb cover on the front they really took a dive after the 2000s
@@Wallymakesstuff i have one of their amplified ones says 50 watts i measure like 25 on it and the tube is thin and feels light so they totally pulled back on quality i remember them being 1/4 thick all way around not those stupid plastic covers on the round port they do that so you dont see the thickness cover it up and those lame covers on the front they used to say bazooza too on the unit and have poly fill so yhea wayyyy better back in the past i think the 90s and till about 2005 is where amps and subs and just car audio had its peak and stuff was stylish and inovation was at its peek now even rockford has no new stuff its been a decade no new amps subs eetc from 2016 is the last year i can tell they had anything new and the subs now are not sexy i miss jkl audio 10w0 they were bland and sexy at the same time simple entry level that rocked then they started making square speakers then they have these covers on them etc mehhhhhhhhh just ugly and fake plastic baskets to hold the woofer where before it was cast aluminum i miss the old days 1980s to 1990s at its peek
@@reggiebannister1080yeah absolutely agree! I run Orion NT series competition separates in this system from The 90’s, nothing like them in today’s lineup imo!
@@Wallymakesstuff back in the day.. the best amps were us amps.. zapco, apline rockford fosgate, phenoix gold.. subs were jl audio.. to mention a few.. now iut seems rockfordfosgate is the only one that sticks with me for anything.. but there stuff is from 2016 they havent updated anything since then.. i run all their stuff in my new car and love it.. but i do miss the old tech a good old ab amp good sub and enclosure seems even wood to make the boxes has changed too gotten cheaper yes wood its not the same dosent feel the same smell the same etc dynamat used to be the go too now all you hear of is this killzmat from amazon qforms kick panels stilkl around but havent updated since 2013 feels like caraudio is gone the way of the dinasor so if you can get your hands on old amps old gear grab it id love to see a old school setup working that and the old gear looked better too this news stuff is well weird like trim rings and logos and the amps arent sexy anymore there all funky looking giimme an old zaPCO AMP SOME 10W0 SUBS AND MONSTER CABLE POWER AND RCA AND IM GOOD TO GO Yea and come to think of it rca cables now suck too notice the ends on them arent metal or cnc gold plated its all this stubby stuff that looks cns has plastic on it and rubber.. thats why if i can i go and find old cables i got me a pair of pro monster cables they sold for like 100 bucks or so back in the day for 4 feet got em for 30 bucks on ebay MONSTER XLN Pro those ones got a set of like 5 of em for 150 bucks the best of the best go try to find cables like that now they dont exsist.. so stuff is dying i just finished a build well almost waiting on my rfockford dsp to show up but i may show yall my setup only thing thats cheap is the box in my setup yea and boxes even ones from manfactures are ugly now and they sound horrible i had a factory one for my punch subs they sounds horrible bought a 150 dollar box off amazon its sexy not meant for them but hits twice as hard and clean.. i feel like now i have to piece to gether a system find parts find things just to make it good where as in the past you could just f9ind a ton of suppliers and have it all ready for you now i have to shop ebay etc.. i do miss us amps though the see though 1990s amps those were my jamm specially that 3 foot monster of a amp 4 grand back in the day i had 2 black ones 150x models and 4 jl audio 10w0 in a blow though box in a single cab with 7.1 surround sound center channel speakers custom door pods and panels my truck was air bagged used to lay frame scrape etc 1/2 inch valves all 4 corners indipendant i could hop 1 inch shaved everything i spend hundreds of hours on it thats when car audiop back in the 2000's was at its peak and you could find all you need... but i rarely see slammed trucks anymore driving around its rare io rarely hear clean car audio or anyone bumping well now its just people with amazon specials but still i miss the good old days 9 15 inch subs in a extra cab truck with bed full of amps and batts those were the days.. anyway i rambled on but had a nestagia flash back 🙂
@@reggiebannister1080all good man, the world needs to know! You aren’t kidding and I totally agree. Orion still makes NT and XTR A/B amps the same they always did by the way. That’s what I’m running my old school speakers off. JL amp to the subs 👍
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done: ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
Why don’t you try reading one of the dozens responses I made to the same question you asked with a link to the follow up with a demo before posting a comment like this.
To be honest with you, allot the stuff was unnecessary and these are very similar woofers,more disappointed in the lack of a before and after comparison with one another, also it’s a 6.5” subwoofer, could have literally used a pvc pipe and some elbows and made a transmission line subwoofer and been better off, but budget wise it’s probably cheaper to do what u did,but if ur ever interested in making ur lil woofer sound bigger, get some pvc look up the wave length of the fs of ur driver and get a pvc pipe and have it cut to 1/4 of the wave length and elbow it, get some rope at same length and assemble it use rope as length reference
Thanks for being more specific. I did a follow video that I think you saw, showing before and after. I did consider the pcv idea, but this was more convenient to my schedule since it’s already built, and actually cost less. But I am curious about the transition part if you have a link. Respectfully, there’s no comparison between the stock sub and the JL other than their size. Completely different animals. The JL just simply sounds better in terms of musical reproduction.
I enjoyed it until you blue balled all of us watching, screw this channel 🙄 make a speaker and then not show it in action, what kind of logic is that 🤷♂️
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
Bro… u did all that and didn’t show it hitting or how it sounded ?!?! I was invested man!! What the hell!
lol, omg yeah I owe everyone at least that. I heard RUclips shutting down videos using copy written music in them. I’ll find something I can test with and post a link to a part two. Maybe I’ll get some db or spl meters too… stay tuned.
I thought same thing... sucks
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
It's just gonna sound like whatever you're listening through...
@@Wallymakesstuffslow the video down
W0 and W3 have been JL's bread and butter for years and years.. huge JL fan.. have two of the original / amps still goin in the truck. Excellent re purpose of the zook tube.. and your right they sounded fantastic for what they were and intended for!
Thanks man, the tube was right in the spec for the enclosure size for the w3 requirements. It sounds so dang good… I ended up ordering another tube and speaker to get the most out of the amp… pending FedEx deliver. Can’t wait!
I use these in my car. Tuned them for 19Hz minimum. They handle a lot of super-deep bass, although not as loud as a larger woofer. They have almost the perfect T&S parameters for clean bass. It's why I chose them as my second set of subs vs the previous speakers.
Awesome, are you referring to the tube enclosure or the JL 6w3? The combo (I eventually did a second one) sounds like a sealed 10” to me in terms of accuracy but with deeper, smoother lower hz. I agree, great for sq.
@@Wallymakesstuff Just the JL6w3 (x2 speakers). I made my own custom subwoofer box for the rear of the car. Sounds sweet. Really punchy and deep for the size of box! Well impressed with how they handle for the size of cone. :)
@@PrincipalAudio ah, yes - they are sweet sounding little subs. My friends have all been shocked when I show them what’s driving the lows. I’m running 1000 rms to my component speakers and only 250 rms to the two subs and it matches up perfectly.
Idk why anyone would tune that low because unless you’re bumping decaf, chopped and screwed or rebassed songs most if not all song stay between 30-40hz only time you’ll ever see anything that low is in a home theater application.
I have a Vizio soundbar I got probably 7 or more years ago. I swapped the original 6.5 inch with the exact same JL driver. Didn't even change the amp, now it keeps up with my paradigm V10. The JL w3 at the time was the same price I spent on the entire soundbar🤣🤣, but it is crazy loud and low with much cleaner bass. Nice vid! Gives me ideas with my tiny car🍻
Thanks for the comment! Somehow JL has been able to hit every nail on the head with these… .25 cu ft of volume in a ported box is all you need to hit their tuning spec. And optimal at 125w rms, yet low sensitivity to hit a broad frequency of sub bass frequencies. Would love to hear how yours goes!
I had two 8s in a truck back in 2000 . Put two Rockford’s in the tube’s and faced them towards each other they hit pretty hard . Facing them together makes a huge difference !
That’s awesome, I never would have thought of that. I was going to face them away from each other towards opposite corners but the left side won’t fit that way 😥. Too much steel from the seat in the way, but I’ll remember that next time I do a build with the right layout. Thanks for the constructive comment!
@@Wallymakesstuff I tried them in every direction and facing together was night and day . I don’t know why but it worked well for the truck I had them in . Mine was sas bazooka tubes . At the time I looked at all different brands and sas seemed to be the best quality . After coming across this I’d like to build a set again ! Brings back some good memories . You did a whole lot better job at installing the speakers than I did . I just screwed them in the way the tube comes .
@@Leonard-hk1nf thanks, I just saw there were more hole in the JL, and took that to assume I should probably use them lol. These tubes were also made by sas. I’m sure some things have changed, but for the price - even the subs that come in them are pretty decent. If you’re looking for spl you can’t go wrong there, but if you want a bit more musical tone, the JL subs are superior.
I did a very similar thing with an old 8” Bazooka tube I had left over from 20 years ago.
I swapped the old driver with an 8” JL W7 powered by a 600watt USAcoustics amp.
Needless to say it was pretty impressive.
Every thought I was running a pair of 12’s and they were baffled when they couldn’t find a large box in the back of my Suburban.
Man that is awesome!! I was thinking of doing the same thing with an 8” W7 for my other vehicle where there’s room for it.
What’s the bazooka tube tuned to??
I’ll be putting up a part 2 to this video with some recordings of the performance once I can get my hands on some non copy written tunes. Maybe a db or spl meter too… maybe a second sub as well. Subscribe to stay tuned. (Pun intended). Part two is up, see ⬆️
You’re the man!
Thank you sir! I appreciate the watching and the comment. 👍
They sell them brand new on Amazon in many different sizes. I’m glad I found this video. I literally forgot about them. I’m definitely gonna get a few. lol
Sounds like some fun ahead!
I've got one in my 2000 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab in the rear passenger floor board and i think it sounds great for what it is. I've always gone with Middle of the road Pioneer 10's and that bazooka tube i'd say put out about 80% of the bass. I mean, it is an 8'' Sub so maybe its just what 8's sound like. The backseat is super cramped in those trucks and rarely does anyone ride back there.
An 8” bazooka is more than enough in a crew cab imo. I went with 6” to fit them under the seat. Two 6” should be somewhere around a single 8”-10” depending on the sub.
Ive never had a bazooka tube, but i had one of the 12" kicker substations (unpowered) ..ive been watching ebay for about 16 years and have only seen one come up during a point where i had 0 extra cash..still watching for them
Timing is everything sometimes. I know what that’s like.
Nice... i did the same back in the day with 8s and 10s. Jl w3s works well in the tubes especially the 8s paired with a mrv500 is a great match
Man, I can imagine it was even more impressive with 8's and 10's, very cool!
Nice but next subwoofer try a NVX subwoofer because there loud in small enclosures.
Very cool. Didn’t know that.
after all that .. we didnt get to here it ,, really just gets my back up ..
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
Awesome job. I have one of these subs mounted in the center console of my Jeep Wrangler. I removed the factory amp and I had to make a ring out of MDF to get it deep enough.
Awesome man, thanks for the post!
My buddy Don say I invented the bass tube early 80's, because I took a 4-in magnum woofer and put it inside a 5-gallon Miracle Whip container and that joker had so much bass you would never think it was coming from a 4-inch speaker.. the magnet on that speaker was huge
That’s so awesome! I was tempted to do a diy tube with PVC pipes but since I already had this one leftover, went this route. I’m surprised more manufacturers aren’t using tubes, honestly.
@@Wallymakesstuff- In the SPL realm, pvc tubes have been know to set world records! The much thicker, and stronger pvc tubes, can withstand tremendous pressure!
Wow… maybe I’ll have to make that a side project someday. These seem to work fine for a small sub, but I could imagine some of those nasty deep 12”+ subs would need some serious tubing.
@@WallymakesstuffC-900 water supply pipe.
Box (tubes) can be a packaging nightmare and are more complicated to build and tune...
Especially ported.
I build many tubes, but you're best to shop specifications of the sub, your listening preferences and space for installation.
I used cardboard concrete tube forms from Lowes or other home centers as a perfectly round form.
I purchased poly cloth from fabric stores as the matrix and standard Bondo resin.
I made a rotisserie type jig to hold and spin the form as I brushed on resin and rolled on the polyester matrix sheet.
On the JL 8w3's...
My tube length was somewhere around 19-21" and I made a second tube about 1/4- 3/8" larger than the sub's basket diameter.
That allowed me to peripheral vent/port the tube to the tuning I desired based on computer design programs.
The 8's were tuned for maximum dB centered at 55hz.
They out performed 10's and 12's with much less power and space.
I think 150-175wrms each.
I haven't used W7's or some high end dB competition 8's, but there's no need really with W3's in a properly built and tuned tube.
@Wallymakesstuff
Very cool. Nice work. I remember my bazooka tube from a long time ago. I was very pleased with it. Little tube, hit pretty damn hard.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video! The tube design sure makes good use of efficiency.
I gave you a thumbs up.......we need to hear it! Especially if you are NOT blowing smoke up out asses!
Yeah wish I could convey the sound… it’s not going to do justice through an iPhone. Maybe I’ll make a short with a friend for a fresh raw impression.
@@Wallymakesstuff That would be wonderful! 👍🏾🥃🥃 Please do?
Will do… I’ll post a link here
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
I have an old pair of bazoka tubes. I may try to do this upgrade project on mine.
If you do, please let me know how it goes!
If your door cards are dark-coloured they will probably be all right, but I tried putting similar damping stuff on the back of the plastic door cards in my car (they are light grey) and in a few years their change in colour where the damping was mounted was very visible. Evidently whatever oil they use in the material works its way through the plastic. I ripped it all off before it became worse.
Nice work on the repurposing of the Bazooka tube BTW. The only thing I might have done different is use a speakon terminal for the connector.
Thanks for the insight. I’ve had good luck with this particular brand of material on the past 4 cars, but I have heard horror stories like yours. And all my cars have been dark in color… so good to be weary of that.
@Grommet2007- Thats why you put the sound deadner on the metal part of your doors, or anywhere else! Use a roller, and really press it on.
@@evilinside5984 I put the deadener on the metal frame of the door as well. The OP mentioned in his video that he applied it to the door cards too, hence my post.
Did you factor tube volume compared to JL's TS parameters?
I built 2 handmade fiberglass tube's for the 8w3's and one for 13w3 using JL's parameters. I designed a complete peripheral port around the subs diameter...a tube within a tube.
The 8's were louder and extremely punchy for kick drum tracks.
The 13 was very deep, clean and fat.
I also did what "experts" claim you shouldn't...
Ran all three on a single JL XD 600.1
Turns out, it was perfectly fine and music quality and volume rivaled mor3 powerful, more expensive systems.
Dude that is brilliant! I’ve been thinking of doing something similar using epoxy resin with concrete form tubes for a downfiring sub in our home. I did run the numbers for JL spec and it lined up perfectly for the volume of the bazooka tube. In fact, I thought of making these from pvc, but when I saw the spec was just right and I had that extra old tube, that’s when I chose to go this route. I’d love to hear what you built!
Ik this is an old video but keep in mind the way you had it set up for a factory radio will be much different for an aftermarket radio the tube itself is fine you just have to adjust your gain properly as a factory radio doesn’t deliver the power like an aftermarket radio can, not to mention rca sub outputs on an after market receiver do output some voltage, hence why you see 2v pre out vs 4v pre out and a lot of professionals say that 2v pre outs are the bare minimum!
Not sure what you mean… I was running a KENWOOD excellon receiver with 5v preouts to it before and after.
I’ve put skar subs in a 12 inch bazooka tube and they sound amazing
Oh man I bet!!
Nicely done
I have 1 em bazooka tube with my ol Punch RF 8" in it...STILL HITS HARD... with a small p300 amp.
Sounds like you had the same idea! Such a smart and simple design. I wish they sold the enclosure separately
@@Wallymakesstuff...tru the years i collected Rockford fosgate amps n speakers
It’s a fun obsession for sure!
@@Wallymakesstuff that it is...i Always been A Fosgate kindda guy.. Still running em in my rides... 1 day..ill have a Skar or Sundown or DefBounce..or DD..its up to how you love your muscic...I love my high n mids with a Nice tight PUNCH...
@@lambertleigh2724yeah man absolutely… too many options! Good problems to have… I went with JL so I could maximize sql without having to add another 1000w amp… didn’t want to go past 1500rms and then deal with 0ga wire, new alternator etc… very happy with them, but for sure a deeper throw like the sundown and skar would be sick!
Just a heads up on your noise dampening material. Asphalt flashing is absolutely NOT the same thing. Though they may have some of the same properties, they are much different. The flashing is rubberized asphalt. It's the absolute worst stuff you can use in your car during hot weather. Cold, it stays reasonably pliable but, loses a lot of it's dampening properties. Here in Vegas, your car will smell like freshly laid asphalt and it's horrendously strong. After about 150-200 degrees F it'll melt and yellow stain everything due to the sulfur used in asphalt to help extend the life. Once it cools again, your asphalt will peel off.
There are two types of stuff the sound deadening is made of. The first is made from what's known as "mass loaded vinyl". It's usually PVC mixed with barium or calcium chloride. That prevents the PVC from hardening turning it into more like a super thick silly putty. The other and most popular due to cost and ease of production is a butyl copolymer rubber. Brands like: HushMat, Kilmat, Dynamat, etc. are made of a butyl rubber mix. Butyl rubber doesn't degass, has a MUCH bigger temp range, and last 10 times longer than the rubberized asphalt.
There is a brand of butyl flashing sold at Home Depot and Lowes called Typar Butyl Flashing Tape. I would agree that is basically the same as sound deadening but, they are nowhere near as thick and dense. However, the Peel & Seal brand you are showing is rubberized sulfur asphalt and the sulfur off gas is absolutely poisonous.
This is a quote, from Peel & Seal's website, on the composition:
"Composed of an exclusive formula (consisting of laminated aluminized foil, high-density polymer films and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt), Peel & Seal® provides a long lasting, durable, maintenance-free roofing surface."
I would honestly get that stuff out of your car. It's very much not good to have especially going into summer.
Wow that’s crazy. I had no idea… I’ve used this stuff on all of my previous vehicles and never had a problem with it. Granted, I don’t live in Vegas, but doesn’t sound like it’s worth the risk.
you could probably put some bedliner on the outside for even more tightness
Do you have a link for that sound deadener? Great idea. Did you say denim? Everything was awesome, but you messed up with the one trim piece. Watch your video at 2:14 and then again at 6:26. That should go under the woofer. Not a big deal, but it will clean up the look of the port. Overall, you have inspired me. I have a convertible that I am struggling to get decent sound in.
Peel and Seal - Lowes stocks it and has the best price on it.
www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733?idProductFound=false&idExtracted=false
As for the trim, yeah I couldn’t get it to wrap around the outside of the JL sub, which has a wider outer rim. All good, I have the sub pointing toward the back wall of the cab so you can’t see how funky it is anyway.
the Peal and Seal used for Dampening is a great tip! thanks, great vid..
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
Better then 10inch underseat subwoofer???
I’d have to try it to know, however, I couldn’t even fit a 10” under this seat, it’s just too low, and with a box that shallow, it would take up all my storage space, vs these tubes allow room for all my tools. I’ll say though, the pair of them sounds like a decent quality 10” to my ears anyway, and less boomy. So if you’re after saving space and SQ, this is a great way to go.
Very cool! I have two of them!!! nS here!
Nice! I just ordered another brand new passive bazooka tube and another JL sub… the addiction is real! Did you swap speakers too?
I am so sorry. Please forgive me. I did find part two. Great work.Thanks.
Yep no worries man, thanks for keeping the request professional
Nicely done.Where did you get that sound dampening stuff from
Thank you - the peel and seal was from Lowe’s. I’ve had some feedback from people on this video to avoid using it in hot climates though due to off gassing. I haven’t had any problems with it. The denim insulation used to be a stock item at Lowe’s and Home Depot but you might need to search online for it.
No demo? Bah that’s what we were waiting for.
There’s a demo in the sequel:
More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
Anyone tested what the "tube" was tuned to originally? Im guessing around 50hz. I dont doubt that this sounds better than the original tube, and seems like a fun project. That being said, i think I could find plenty of other uses for JL quality subs. Alot of complicated math comes into boxes, especially when ported. My problem with Bazooka Tubes was the marketing. They'd be fine for a mid tucked in a hatch or SUV. But never a replacement for an actual sub IMO. Im guessing even JL couldn't get low in a box like that.
I hear your point. I’m uploading an spl test that will be up shortly. They surprisingly get plenty low. It almost identically matches the cubic feet and vent requirements from JL. That’s one of the reasons I selected this sub.
@@Wallymakesstuff That's awesome to hear(no pun intended)! I wasn't trying to bash you in any way. Just in the same hobby. Any chance you could show a freq analyzer along with the SPL? I've downloaded many for my phone for free that are plenty accurate for such tests. I think this has potential to be good mid bass paired with a sub tuned low.
Yeah no worries man, I appreciate constructive feedback like that. Helps me think…. I’ll put the link to that video in the description to this video after this reply. I was using a frequency analyzer/spl combo. Unfortunately I held the phone in horizontal format when I took the screenshots so I had to crop it before inserting into the video. But just know the far left of the spectrum is 20hz. I like your idea about using this as a mid bass… it really drives around 150hz. Wonder what it would sound like with one ported and one sealed off? Maybe that would be an easy solution to get best of both worlds without adding another amp, crossover or dsp inline?
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
I did this with pvc pipe instead of a bazooka tube.
How did it sound? And did you port it? I might do an 8” with pvc….
Ys it was bumpin but ya lots of dyna mat at the back had a RF power 800 a4 rears bridged to the 10 w 6 it was in a single cab toyota pickup bumpin
Still have a set .
Good DIY project, IMO. Things I would've done differently:
1) Extend the whole tube for a lower Fs;
2) Used cheaper subs - to make the whole system be either a passive radiator or dual-opposed scheme;
3) Skipped the cheap binding post cup and mounted the binding posts right into the enclosure - at a much stronger location w/o the flex/bend/vibration of a plastic mounting cup;
4) The rest would be the same - ie: bitumen sheets for cabinet damping; recycled denim insulation for damping material; etc.....
In my mind, this would yield greater benefits over simply keeping the stock-ish bass tube.....
Play it so we can hear what it sounds like.
I’ll do it and post in the comments soon… though I don’t think it’ll do justice to how it sounds in person.
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
I used to put 10w 6 s in the 10 inch bazooka tubes u gotta dynamite the back of the tube
Damn that must be insane.
Good job
Thanks!
I have an 8" sundown In a bazooka
I bet that sounds great!
Out of interest did you do any simulations prior to doing this or just changed it and hoped for the best?
I just went for it! I figured the worst case scenario I could build a box for it.
@@Wallymakesstuff nice one, glad it worked out
Does it sound better than a regular wedge enclosure?
It sounds awesome - but I’ve never heard this particular speaker in a wedge enclosure. All I can say is that I have never heard a 6.5” sub sound so good, and pack this much punch. Equivalent to a lot of single 10’s I’ve heard…
The enclosure is almost an afterthought with a lot of companies. Any help you can give a factory box is very noticeable. Got a Klipsch powered sub had a small rattle. Went nuts with fat mat. The port inside was cardboard 😂
I have a powered klipsch sub in my home stereo and was thinking of making a sealed box for it. The box it came with just felt thin and not right for the power it delivers. It puts out a lot of boomy bass that sounds more like box resonance than subwoofer sound. Maybe your solution is the way to do… did it sound better afterwards?
I have a Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport I want it the one with the hood scoop and 3 inch lift kit with 17 inch factory TRD rims with all-terrain tires after watching your video I want to get Head unit subs and amp lol I do rewrite my message I was using the talk to text feature earlier and it has a mind of it’s own at times 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Sounds like a fun project is in your future!
Very cool 🤙
Thank you sir
Would’ve been nice to see how it sounded🤔🔊
More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
you gotta record/video the sound! give us a test or initial sound check!
Got you covered -
More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
Great video, right up to the point where you didn't let us hear it! What!? I'm hoping there is a follow up video.
Thanks… there is a follow up with a sound demo:
More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
Did you put that white insulation in there
No, that’s what came with it. I didn’t end up using any insulation because the rubber damping I added did the job
No BASS? I committed to this video i made it to 8:37sec & didnt see any FLEX! THATS disappointing. . .
If it’s it a 6” Bazooka tube, how did you fit a 6.5” JL sub?
I think 6” is just what they call it. They’re the same size
@@Wallymakesstuff Got it. Thanks
@WallyTheBuilder- Find a car audio shop with an SPL meter, to have your peak freq., and SPL ✔️ with 1 of these, then vs 2 of these.
Got another one going in Thursday and I am pretty sure I know just the guy to help me test that…
@@Wallymakesstuff- Im not sure if you know about impedance fluctuations/rise, which occurs while playing music? Example: If you wired a single D4= dual 4 ohm subwoofer, and wired the 2 voice coils parr.= to a 2 ohm Load, on a 1 ohm stable amp, while playing music this resting impedance will swing/fluctuate/rise on average between 2x to 4x the initial impedance. So the speaker will only be getting between the amplifiers 4 ohm to 8 ohm power, while playing music. If using an amp rated 500 watts @ 1 ohm, 300 @ 2 ohm, 150 @ 4 ohm, and 75 @ 8 ohm, the average woofer wired to this amp @ 2 ohms, would be getting anywhere from 75 to 150 watts. This is why if you had 2 woofers rated for 250 watts rms each, it would be fine to use an amplifier that is 2x to 3x the woofers rated power. Also there are amplifiers that are designed to help fight impedance rise. Like JL, Rockford Fosgate, and Taramps Big Boss Bass 3k, that does 3,000 watts ( for $299 verified on amp dynos) and its smart tech. will make its 3k power @ all 3 of these impedances= @ 1/2 ohm, 1 ohm, and 2 ohms!
I was not aware of that! I’m powering this off a JL 250/1 (250w at 2 ohms). It’s drawing 4 right now which means it’s getting 150 per spec… when I run a second I’ll be at 2 ohms so 125 each…. But now it is sounding like that won’t be enough. I wouldn’t run another amp but didn’t want to have to run another 4ga cable plus probably a capacitor and upgrade the alternator. I have noticed JL amp specs seem under-rated. Anyhow, I hope I have enough… this sub calls for 125w rms as the ideal input so o figured since I’m using a JL amp rated at that level it should be about perfect.
@@Wallymakesstuff- Old school, 1 farrad type capacitors are useless= a waste of $. In the 90s when capacitors came out, the common taught knowledge was 1 farrad per 1,000 watts= such a lie! Now companies like XS Power, sell a 500 Farad, and 1,000 Farad Super capacitors, that are put into Battery cases, and can be ran under hood, but should be ran with a battery to have reserve power. I still prefer high output alternators, and AGM battery's, not Lithium(still too high of a % to catch fire imo, + they suck in cold weather like 32° and below) Also your 4ga. Power, and ground wire, if Full ( U.S. spec. ), and O.F.C= Oxygen Free Copper, it will support up to a 150 amp draw, @ up to 20Ft. of length, so way more than adequate, for up to an actual 1,500 watts of R.M.S. Power! If it's 4ga. CCA= Copper Clad Aluminum wire, its only good for 500 watts to 750 watts, depending on strand count/spec. I have been a Champion car audio competitor, for 30 years. On a team, testing everything under the sun. Actual power, with impedance rise was a huge eye opener! JL audio is a Quality amp/company, but if your wired to 4 ohms now, and 2 ohms, after adding the second JL woofer, while playing music, your JL 250/1 amp, will probably only be putting out between 75 to 150 watts. If you have the big 3 done, and full U.S. spec. 4ga O.F.C. Power and ground, your stock elec., can support 1500 watts, but you dont need that. A perfect match if staying with the expensive JL brand= the 1000/1, to account for imp. rise. Or for $299, you could get the Taramps Big Boss Bass 3k, and keep the gain low( so max amperage does not exceed 60 amp's or so) If your happy, who cares then, right? But just know, as good as it is, it could be much louder. When you get used to its loudness, and we ALL do, know that you can step it up.
Awesome to have feedback from a competitive audio guy, thanks for all of this! I am running 4ga ofc, about 16’. In addition to the JL amp I’m also running an ORION XTR 1000.4 to my door separates, so I’m at 1250 RMS. 75-150 is right in the sweet spot for these JL 6w3’s (according to JL anyway)
In a side note since you’re old school - a friend of mine had a barely used set of ORION NT separates from the late 90’s. He gave them to me! I had to re-wire the tweeters due to a design flaw that arc’ed the wires. But man they’re fantastic… it’s an sq focused system, not so much spl… to my ears, plenty loud enough for me. I’ll be putting up some additional videos covering other aspects of the install in coming days. Stay tuned…
I would've used a sonotube with a passive radiator
How much bette was the sound. Please update
Yes sir. Part two is here: More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
Thank you for the inquiry
My dad had two 10 inch bazookas in his CRX shit would bump hard
Omg that’s a lot of volume for a small space like a crx! Those cars were so fun to drive.
@@Wallymakesstuff very well made design with the JL. I have been surfing around your channel see what else cool stuff you gotta show some love to you bro take care
@@thatguykai479thanks for the compliment and checking out my channel, I hope you enjoyed what you saw!
Brandon B. I grew up with had a 89’ CRX with (2) 18” Punch subs with the old 90’ Punch 650 amp and it was one of the baddest systems I can remember in early 90’s!#ThePunch🥊#RockfordFosgate#🔊❤️
@@bondalero0074 fuckkk that sounds crazy I found an old 300.1 bazooka amp completely brand new in the plastic and in original box like 50 bucks nobody wanted it on auction I really want the old Rockford fosgate punch set like 0.03% THD on a 5 channel or a 4 but they sell for like hundreds everytime
I’m 48 so when I was younger every one had after market systems in there vehicles the last system I had this was in 1999 I had three 10 inch JL Audio 10w sixes with Rock for Fosgate amplifier to the three subs Kenwood came out with a can’t remember if it was detachable face or not but the face folded down on this Kenwood head unit and when I fold it down you put the CD and then you hit the button in the face went back up and this was a normal size head unit not like head units today I had so many stereos Systems in my vehicles will always have one of my girlfriends back when I was younger that’s what every one was into I had a 1998 Toyota Silver what factory rims crown dip with Mickey Thompson tires but they were not off-road I mean all-terrain tires ski and snowboard rack and grill guards on the front and back and they were painted to match the truck with the big PIAA fog lights they were Amber and color they were halogen LEDs were an out back then
Yes sir, those were the days!
Do you know the volume of the bazooka tube?
It measures .27 cf without the damping material, so I figured it dropped to about .25 after. Which is what JL recommends for a ported enclosure for this speaker. I did not include vent volume into the equation, just the tube.
id like to be able to listen too/ see this in action.
This won't substitute for a live viewing but it's better than nothing - if you haven't seen the followup video:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=aL8XJIXXkEXo6bZ2
WE WANTED 2 HEAR IT
You could've shown is the bazooka hitting as it was and after as a "jlzooka"thats why 90% of us watched this video!
I did, watch part 2
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=UqPTKel7EVx4O_Mu
Had to find some non copywritten music first and fire up an old android so I could record and play at the same time.
Weres the demo
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=thyKjoL58J2ltCsV
Be careful not to exceed the capacity of the enclosure to avoid bottoming out the woofer
Thanks - the volume of the tube is almost identical to JL factory recommendation
Mine had pink insulation inside
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@@Wallymakesstuff my bazooka was from over 20 years ago
Why wait for a part2, I was so pump to see how it sounded and not I lost interest
🤷
No demo?..😂
You didn't list where you get you Denim insulation. And yeah to not go show any sound after all that is well dissapointing.
Use CT sounds meso subs! Way cheaper!!
Good to know!
Finished testing? Where is testing? I didnt liked your video ending because no demo sound was shown. Video is about making box. We can make also any kind of boxes for subs and say it sounds perfectly, but indeed it is crap🙂
Read the comments, there’s a test video link
@@Wallymakesstuff now its okay👍
Long port, low bass.
back in the 90s the tubes were thick and sturdy now there garbage with cheap woofers and that dumb cover on the front they really took a dive after the 2000s
Totally agree. I had a friend with the old school one in 10” and it was hard to breathe when it was pumping!
@@Wallymakesstuff i have one of their amplified ones says 50 watts i measure like 25 on it and the tube is thin and feels light so they totally pulled back on quality i remember them being 1/4 thick all way around not those stupid plastic covers on the round port they do that so you dont see the thickness cover it up and those lame covers on the front they used to say bazooza too on the unit and have poly fill so yhea wayyyy better back in the past i think the 90s and till about 2005 is where amps and subs and just car audio had its peak and stuff was stylish and inovation was at its peek now even rockford has no new stuff its been a decade no new amps subs eetc from 2016 is the last year i can tell they had anything new and the subs now are not sexy i miss jkl audio 10w0 they were bland and sexy at the same time simple entry level that rocked then they started making square speakers then they have these covers on them etc mehhhhhhhhh just ugly and fake plastic baskets to hold the woofer where before it was cast aluminum i miss the old days 1980s to 1990s at its peek
@@reggiebannister1080yeah absolutely agree! I run Orion NT series competition separates in this system from
The 90’s, nothing like them in today’s lineup imo!
@@Wallymakesstuff back in the day.. the best amps were us amps.. zapco, apline rockford fosgate, phenoix gold.. subs were jl audio.. to mention a few.. now iut seems rockfordfosgate is the only one that sticks with me for anything.. but there stuff is from 2016 they havent updated anything since then.. i run all their stuff in my new car and love it.. but i do miss the old tech a good old ab amp good sub and enclosure seems even wood to make the boxes has changed too gotten cheaper yes wood its not the same dosent feel the same smell the same etc dynamat used to be the go too now all you hear of is this killzmat from amazon qforms kick panels stilkl around but havent updated since 2013 feels like caraudio is gone the way of the dinasor so if you can get your hands on old amps old gear grab it id love to see a old school setup working that and the old gear looked better too this news stuff is well weird like trim rings and logos and the amps arent sexy anymore there all funky looking giimme an old zaPCO AMP SOME 10W0 SUBS AND MONSTER CABLE POWER AND RCA AND IM GOOD TO GO Yea and come to think of it rca cables now suck too notice the ends on them arent metal or cnc gold plated its all this stubby stuff that looks cns has plastic on it and rubber.. thats why if i can i go and find old cables i got me a pair of pro monster cables they sold for like 100 bucks or so back in the day for 4 feet got em for 30 bucks on ebay MONSTER XLN Pro those ones got a set of like 5 of em for 150 bucks the best of the best go try to find cables like that now they dont exsist.. so stuff is dying
i just finished a build well almost waiting on my rfockford dsp to show up but i may show yall my setup only thing thats cheap is the box in my setup yea and boxes even ones from manfactures are ugly now and they sound horrible i had a factory one for my punch subs they sounds horrible bought a 150 dollar box off amazon its sexy not meant for them but hits twice as hard and clean.. i feel like now i have to piece to gether a system find parts find things just to make it good where as in the past you could just f9ind a ton of suppliers and have it all ready for you now i have to shop ebay etc..
i do miss us amps though the see though 1990s amps those were my jamm specially that 3 foot monster of a amp 4 grand back in the day i had 2 black ones 150x models and 4 jl audio 10w0 in a blow though box in a single cab with 7.1 surround sound center channel speakers custom door pods and panels my truck was air bagged used to lay frame scrape etc 1/2 inch valves all 4 corners indipendant i could hop 1 inch shaved everything i spend hundreds of hours on it thats when car audiop back in the 2000's was at its peak and you could find all you need... but i rarely see slammed trucks anymore driving around its rare io rarely hear clean car audio or anyone bumping well now its just people with amazon specials but still i miss the good old days 9 15 inch subs in a extra cab truck with bed full of amps and batts those were the days.. anyway i rambled on but had a nestagia flash back 🙂
@@reggiebannister1080all good man, the world needs to know! You aren’t kidding and I totally agree. Orion still makes NT and XTR A/B amps the same they always did by the way. That’s what I’m running my old school speakers off. JL amp to the subs 👍
Kids don't do this. Drugs are bad mmmkayyy
🤪
Must have sound like 💩 since you didn’t show it playing 😂
It must sound like trash
That was a waste of my time watching this, no demo of it playing what's the purpose
Part two includes an AB comparison with SPL meter and audio sampling between stock passive bazooka tube vs single tube with JL 6w3, vs two tubes with JL 6w3’s. Thanks for your patience, and I appreciate you pushing me to do a second round so we could have an objective way to measure this. It’s not perfect, but it gets the job done:
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.htmlsi=hDPVLHlJ32f22HsA
All that and no show wtf dude. Great build up but it was like getting some booty then without bustin smh 🤦🏻♂️
lol, check the description there’s a part 2
Watch waited to hear it .... And nothing ............
More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL
ruclips.net/video/TwnC6FmFm6c/видео.html
Wasted all that time.....
What a waste of my time you're not even going to show I before and after or even how it sounds after you finished
Why don’t you try reading one of the dozens responses I made to the same question you asked with a link to the follow up with a demo before posting a comment like this.
@@Wallymakesstuff sorry dude wasn't clear I was being sarcastic with the waste of my time
I waited all that time to hear it and he doesn’t play it. No likes or subscribes for you deputy doofy
It’s a multi part series. Try reading the comments before posting
👎
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To be honest with you, allot the stuff was unnecessary and these are very similar woofers,more disappointed in the lack of a before and after comparison with one another, also it’s a 6.5” subwoofer, could have literally used a pvc pipe and some elbows and made a transmission line subwoofer and been better off, but budget wise it’s probably cheaper to do what u did,but if ur ever interested in making ur lil woofer sound bigger, get some pvc look up the wave length of the fs of ur driver and get a pvc pipe and have it cut to 1/4 of the wave length and elbow it, get some rope at same length and assemble it use rope as length reference
Thanks for being more specific. I did a follow video that I think you saw, showing before and after. I did consider the pcv idea, but this was more convenient to my schedule since it’s already built, and actually cost less. But I am curious about the transition part if you have a link. Respectfully, there’s no comparison between the stock sub and the JL other than their size. Completely different animals. The JL just simply sounds better in terms of musical reproduction.
@@Wallymakesstuff ruclips.net/video/Q2VL_FHu9AY/видео.htmlsi=yrdKFJAdWDVBAuFZ
@@Wallymakesstuff ruclips.net/video/mq247-OCQg0/видео.htmlsi=_lVt2iIlmVz3xL68
I enjoyed it until you blue balled all of us watching, screw this channel 🙄 make a speaker and then not show it in action, what kind of logic is that 🤷♂️
You could have looked at any of the dozens of comments I’ve made that link to the sequel that show it playing. Thanks for the polite comment.