When I did the same with my ‘06 Tundra, I pulled the carpet out and called a local carpet cleaning company and signed up for their “3 rooms for $99 special”. When the tech showed up I told him 2 rooms were in the house and the third was in the driveway. He did a great job and the carpet looked pretty darn good!
Exactly, those small upholstery cleaners are for touchups not really deep cleans. I just started doing some mold remediation out of my truck and it takes forever. Should have called in the pros!
@@cafenightster4548I wouldn't use those rug doctors they rent from either Home Depot or a grocery store, those things are absolute crap. Even brand new their suction is horrid, they dump too much water into your carpet and they leave a metric ton of soap behind so your carpeting will get dirty even faster than normal. As someone who did carpet cleaning for a bit make sure to hire a guy that that has a built in steam cleaner in the van, they can adjust the temperature according to the material and it won't leave your carpet soaking wet for a day or so. (It's also why you don't want to hire Stanley Steamer because they just use the same shitty Rug Doctor machine just int heir own colors)
@18_rabbit they are great little machines, I had an old project car that had been heavily smoked in, pressurewashed the carpets with some decent carpet cleaners and drill brush agitation before blasting it all out used a carpet cleaner on the seats and headliner then put the ozone inside to finish it up and the smell of old cigarettes was gone. Admittedly I also had a lot of Ash to clean up from all the crevices inside the car
Dude, the first minute of what you said is literally me rn. Feels good to be able to have money for my projects but different priorities now. 😅 wish I had a chance to meet you when we were still a local to the 559.
I put the same amazon brand deadner on the ceiling of my Honda while I had the headliner out. It made a HUGE improvement in getting rid of the tin can sound, ESPECIALLY when it’s raining: the sound of the rain drops hitting the windshield and backlite glass is louder than the ones hitting the roof.
TheRogueBro So true I have a '97 Silverado K1500 extended cab and when I started my stereo system build I stripped the whole interior to do sound deadening/insulation and run cables and wiring. I was amazed at how little sound deadening there was from factory. There was none on the roof one small piece on each side of floor pan none in the doors and one small piece under the rear side window on each side and a small piece in center of rear wall there was also a very small piece behind radio on firewall. When I say small I mean like 4"×8" and very small was 3"×5". So needless to say it was a lot of material and work to get it right. Looking back it is a very good thing I started out by just stripping the entire interior.
Nice project and great video! My gut feeling says that I wouldn't have put the secondary foam where you will have carpet but it IS NEEDED where you have Amazon Basics anti-resonant deadener but no carpet - especially behind loudspeakers, inside doors and side panels and so-on. You should drive the same route for a valid comparison because the road surface has a large influence on resonance and higher-frequency tyre noise. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@didiermejia780element should be a great candidate since the sheet metal is more expansive and flat. I'm having trouble in my Chevy TB after driving a Mercedes of same era for last 5 yrs. The Chevy roof is like a trampoline under modest hand pressure. Just doesn't compare to the roof of an e320 wagon.
Like you were sayin it’s very difficult to show the difference that is made for far too many reasons to list but I think the most important one is noise reduction that isn’t truly shown on a decibel meter. The meter just reads the loudest frequency registered, it doesn’t show which frequencies were reduced and by how much. For example, we tend to be very sensitive to the 1k-4k hz and sound deadening/absorption mainly reduces that range. So you could actually have a 20 db swing that would go unnoticed due to its limitations. Second, the lower frequencies are very difficult to absorb due to the wave lengths being so long, it would require several inches of padding up to several feet depending on which frequency you are trying to limit. Luckily, the lower the frequency, the more pleasant it’s generally perceived.
This 100%. I've done some sound deadening on my car and while the decibel test provided negligible results (just a couple db) the actual real life experience is noticeably more pleasant. The higher frequencies are muted and road noise doesn't make having actual conversations annoying.
Glad I scrolled down - I don't know a lot about sound engineering or acoustics, and I was wondering this. I don't regret the 120 lbs. I've added to my small sedan. It completely elevates the car. It's also cool when the stereo is turned up, all windows and doors closed, and then I open a door and a flood of great sounding music comes out.
A trick I've always done is just remove the weather barrier all together and put a second layer of sound deadener in place of it. The layer on the outer skin deadens the sound of the metal itself and the inner layer helps deaden the sound of the hollow of the door, plus it better isolates the rear wave of speakers from the cabin area.
Replacement carpet is also available with something called "mass backing" which reduces sound transfer. Its a big investment on an SUV at around 700 bucks for ultra plush carpet with mass backing, but it is great at making the interior look, feel, and smell new, especially on older vehicles with damaged carpet (stains, cigarette burns, tears, or wear through). Ive used stockinteriors for carpet on several projects, and their molded carpets have always been top quality, IMO
The mass backing is just a layer of mass loaded vinyl added to the carpet. I was unaware people were doing this so I looked up for the carpet in my truck. It's $75 extra for the MLV backing on essentially 25sqft of carpet. MLV typically costs $2-$4 a sq ft, and the convenience of it already being attached to the carpet seems great. I'm probably going to order new carpet soon now, so thanks for the info.
almost ALL resonate noise in a vehicle that large comes from, firewall, doors, rear gate... and believe it or not the roof of the vehicle acts like the skin on a drumhead. All road vibration while driving resonates UP, with all the effort you put into that you should do the ceiling & I would bet you would notice an Audible difference W/O the Db meter. I know I did, and I ONLY did the side panels doors and roof. LOL now mind you having crappy worn or chopped, or semi knobby tires doesn't help either(a good touring tire will kill a ton of road noise) Good Video!!
Yes, firewall-doors-gate-WHEEL WELLS-roof. - RMG is right, just do the doors and panels, BUT be sure to get those wheel wells covered too! You don't need to cover any of these 100% with the sound deadener/Mass-loaded material. Just cover most of it but you don't get much gain by going edge-to-edge. - Tires are a big source of noise, and in a SUV like the LC, it's really big. Should always mass-load/deaden those surfaces that face the wheels as a priority, that wasn't really done here in this video. - As to the roof - yep, lots of noise reduction if you do the interior ceiling, BUT - in any sort of hot climate, any time the vehicle is driven or parked in the sun, the heat will tend to soften the glue or bond, and then you get major drooping and all kinds of issues with it sagging into the headliner. It becomes a major PITA. The best solution is a spray-on deadener material that 100% bonds to the roof metal. That's a pain to do, but gives the least trouble long-term. And of course, any spray-on material is going to have fumes and stank that takes a while to go away. Again, 100% coverage isn't necessary, shoot to cover 60% to 70% of any of these surface areas for best 'bang for buck'.
Cant believe this isn't mentioned more! I did the ceiling with alu-butyl first then memory foam type thing specifically made for heat/cold transfers, I did it in the middle of summer and MAN what a difference couldn't believe it. My car used turn into furnace in 30 mins absolutely unbearable unless I opened all windows and waited 15 secs before getting in. Mind you I also had all my windows including windshield tinted in clear ceramic heat rejection tint, supposed to block ~70% of the heat IIRC. Limo ceramic tint the damn moonroof aswell
The opening lines here really, really resonate. I've had build sheets, lists, and bookmark folders for years now of all of the cars I've ever owned, currently own, or aspire to own. Gotta love it!
Great video! Yes db scale is logarithmic, 3db is a double or halving depending on direction. 3db is usually what it takes for the human ear to notice although come can notice 2db. 6 db reduction is excellent!
Totally inaccurate statement. Logarithmic at a 10db scale 60db is half of 70db in perceived loudness. -7db is a 70% reduction in that 10db scale. Wattage is the same 1w-10w-100w-1000w are 10db increases in sound level. A speaker with 79db @1w is twice as loud 89db @ 10watts etc....
@@e.emerald3224 That is exactly right and people dealing with sound treatment should know. 10db less is hald the perceived loudness ! So, a reduction of 6 dB in sound level corresponds to a perceived noise reduction of about 34% which the human ear perceives as roughly one-third quieter. So it means the noise is not half but at 66% of the original.
I've done the same on a 99 Tacoma and 89 4runner. Makes a huge difference on these old trucks. My next tackles on the 80 are both rear door lock actuators don't work and my windows are so slow. I think I already purchased the runs, but a bottle of silicone spray actually did wonders a couple years ago. I figure, doors off, replace speakers, locks, refresh window grease and sound deadening will be a good 3 for 1 winter project .
It could be the factory grease inside of the window motors has dried out and causing resistance. See if they can be opened. Clean and re-grease, it will make a huge difference and prolong the life of the motor.
Clean the window tracks, the motors, the gears and the rollers with brake cleaner and then use white lithium grease to re-lube the motors, gears and rollers. This will make the windows go up and down a lot smoother and easier. Also check all window parts for loose rivets, if these are loose it will make the windows roll up and down with much more difficulty.
Thanks for the heads up about the sound deadener. It's on my project list.Before I've removed carpet I took it to the car wash in the back of the truck and power washed it. Works like a champ.
Excellent idea! I never would have thought of this, but after I swap me door speakers, I will be running out and buying a shower curtain to replace the torn plastic.
Too bad a door barrier isn't the main topic of this video nor will a door barrier have anything to do with making sound better. May block some moisture/water and shower curtain good idea and no brainer at same time. Lol!
I use frost king from Home Depot /lowes, it’s a fraction of the price and does the same as these expensive companies. It’s been in my daughter’s 2013 accord and still holds its value. No vibrations from the sound system and no road noise.
I did it on my 2015 kia rio! I did not do the floor but the hatch and backseat are covered, plus doors and rear quarter...huge improvement !about 100$ and an afternoon work time. i used amazon basic too, great product...my next car will get the same treatment!
A 3db reduction is very noticeable to the ear. To increase the sound by 3db takes a doubling of the power of an audio amplifier. So a reduction of 6db is pretty big for an ambient noise drop. Nice.
I remember adding sound deadening mats in my friend's Toyota Corolla as a teen. He could only afford to enough to install them in his doors first. It made a big difference. Then we installed some on his roof and that made a huge difference. I have a 2015 Toyota RAV4 that I've been tinkering with and this might be my next addition lol
I also have a 2015 Rav4 and am planning of sound deadening the rear seat and hatch storage area. Very very noisy and plenty of rattles back there. Toyota could have done more for sound proofing
I've used B-quiet products in the past with excellent results. I run mostly minivans which have a LOT of relatively flat steel to resonate. Adding carpet to hard plastic interior panels both reduces noise and much improves the feel when touching those panels. A dash carpet reduces sound reflections as well as light reflections from the windshield. Spray foam (Great Stuff or equivalent) in hollow panel areas absolutely kills resonance. If any of your doors have only a single seal adding a double or even triple seal can really help. Higher trim levels of some vehicles or different "brands" of the same vehicle often have better door seals which you can add. Different brands of tire can make a significant difference.
Feel you on the money for projects. Bought a 2001 Camry, 16 years ago, and only just started. I blame 4 kids haha. But what i wanted back then has changed today. Interesting that the amazon basics did so well. I plan to use an Australian made product for obvious reasons. But it did really well. Should be noted, due to the way the decibel scale is, the quieter you make it, the more the measurement will jump around. But 60s is really good.
Great tips. Love the super glue on the masonite. A big contributor to driving noise in general is noise from the roof. Wind and vibration. You don't need to insulate/add material to the entire surface, just enough to add weight as it will make a significant difference as well.
I put sound deadening materials to my E28 floor, roof, doors, pillars and wheel well. It made a significant difference in reducing vibrations and rattles. But the biggest difference in my case was when I put those soft sound deadening foam and carpet bits of a BMW 7 series, glued thin carpets on the inner fenders like what some new cars have and replacing every rubber seals on the doors and windows, it greatly reduced the road, tire and wind noise, the lot.
Definitely worth it, roughly a 10 decibal reduction, which is about half as loud as it once was. Real basic rule of thumb, every 10db reduction is about half as loud to the human ear.
I’m definitely going to put some of that sound deadener in my doors and quarter panels. And that tip about how to fix the door panels with the superglue Is a game changer!
One thing to be careful of is to make sure the super glue doesn't bleed through. 2 of the areas on my panel were *really* worn down and needed more glue than normal and it bled through. You can see it in the video when I reinstall the panel. This isn't normal, but can happen.
Great video. I just wanted to add my 2 cents. The decibel reading is a combination of sounds, not just road noise. You also have to factor in the noise from wind, engine, and tires. Tires are the worst because the type of tread can add several decibels depending on the type and how it interacts when in contact with the road. Add material to the underside of the hood if it doesn't already have it. And try adding some material to the inner fenders to absorb noise at the source. Luxury car manufacturers target specific areas of the interior and it looks like a patchwork of sound absorbing material when you take apart the interior. I suspect it's because applying soundproofing to the entire interior of the cabin won't result in a huge significance in sound deadening and it's not cost effective. Luxury auto makers also select tires that are quiet and I read somewhere there is a tire made with sound deadening material. Manufacturers also use special isolators in suspension components for their high-end cars. Rolls Royce had to remove some of their sound proofing because it was too good. Drivers were complaining that they didn't have a sense of being connected to the road and it was an eerie feeling while driving.
Deadening helps panel drone and resonances, but to really quieten down tyre noise/the engine, you want a thick felt, wool, or closed cell foam layer on the bulkhead and arches, with a layer of mass loaded vinyl over that, basically creating a cavity wall to stop the transmitted noise.
For the sound coming through the firewall, whenever you have a dash panel off cover it in the foam or sound deadener. Stops vibration and reduces the noise. You can also put some sound deadening on the engine bay side if you really wanted too
Some advice, start with fixing all the window and door seals. The wind noise is going to be most noticeable. Then listen for the actual sources of vibration based noise and treat those areas. When the first source of noise is reduced, you'll then get a new noticeable source of noise. Keep going. Do the tap test to find resonances.
Even if you don't need the deadening under the carpet, depending on the age of the car or how it's used, it's probably worth it just for the cleaning and maintenance alone. Also gives you the opportunity to check for any spots of rust starting and making sure all the wiring is still in good condition with no corrosion. And as you noticed in your video, you also found some water leak spots haha.
Not sure if you've done it yet, but putting some about the headliner is HUGE. Dad and i just did it to his 85 ranger, 320cc😉 and my old 81 j10, nothing but thuds, and easy talking. We got the idea from my uncle that assembled tractor cabs years ago. Takes away the return echo.
It's so much nicer driving a car that has been sound deadend correctly. Even without having a big aftermarket stereo, it makes it so much quieter while driving. 👍
You'll notice the biggest difference with the roof. It's so surprising how auto MFGs don't do anything to insulate the roof outside of some foam headliner fabric. Also, if you use thermal insulation, your interior temps will stay much cooler longer if you have tint.
Nice job. I did the exact same procedure with the same product on my 97 LX450. It’s also a great time to change out the fuel sock if you haven’t yet. Great build and hope to see ya on the trail someday.
I did this to my Landcruiser Troopy. It was almost a legal requirement to drive that hollow tin can. The different types of deadening are used because sound doesn’t transfer from one density to another really well Great truck dude 💪💪💪
Usually the first thing I put it on is the wheel wells. Think about it, that’s where 99% of road noise comes from. At the end when you were applying the 2nd layer in the back I noticed you only had the factory deadener on them. I’d definitely have at least two, possibly three if there was enough
I bought the Amazon basics stuff off return pallet warehouse for $1.50 a box. 10"x16", normally $40 a box. I managed to get 10 boxes for $15. Love the stuff
I so get the opening. I had a badass 65’ Mustang my Dad and I built, but I couldn’t afford to what I really wanted. Later I had an 85’ GT, couldn’t afford to modify it. Now I’m about to retire for the second time. I just naught a $1,700 tool for my workshop and I’m shopping for a 66-67 Shelby, or a 66’ convertible to build up. I got the money, and about to have the time. Oh, on the sound deadening I used expanding foam in the body parts I couldn’t get to. I used neoprene matting between the skin and interior panels. I used some heavy duty sound matting for the flooring and doors and hatch. I have an 85’ Cherokee I take hunting. It’s rigged to camp in and secure my weapons. I have a great sound system in it. Now I can blow money on my cars and hardly think about it. Keep it up!
Thanks for the tip on the amazon basics stuff, My Lincoln did not come with extra deadener over the basic crown vic it shares a platform with, the difference is in the foam formed mass backed essex pile carpet I pressure washed the heck out of my carpets out of my Lincoln, I also used Purple power and drill brushes over several days to get the stains and caked in dirt and rust out, I then switched to woolite with oxylean to make it smell good...I hung it up then used the pressure washer to rinse the soap out and a hand held brush to fluff up the fibers again while it dried looked brand new other than the three large cigarette burn marks from the old lady that owned it before me... Sadly I'm a bit OCD and once I see something it stands out....My plan is to dye it pitch black but it's so large it wont fit into any container or reasonably sized cheap pool...with these carpets you need to soak it for a long time, like a week or more and the dye needs to stay at least warm...so it's best to do that in summertime...
I used weed trimmer string (orange) in my GTIs front sunroof drains. I used 3-4 inches and made a "U" shape and put it in the drain nipple in the front door jam. Then left about 1/4" visible. This was done to allow water and any small dirt to easily exit the drain and prevent backups
Didn't really need the decibel app, for confirmation. As long as your recording settings, and the mic you are using is the same? You can hear the difference, between the pre, and post, of the soundproofing job. Your voice is much clearer.
6db measured is good bang for the $$ and effort. While 1 person kinda (tried to) touched on it: a musical analogy/reference for the human ear to perceive change in volume, the increased output needs to be roughly 3db, this is AUDIBLY, at the ear. Now, "feeling" ie: low frequencies (bass) can be much less and 3db in 200hz or less is a MAJOR boost in low-end output. Another measurable way to look at it: to increase musical output inside a given space it requires roughly a doubling of output power (wattage) to achieve 3db of gain. So tying the 2 analogies together: for an AUDIBLE musical gain, a car with a measured 50 watts of musical power would require 100 watts of equivalent, clean, undistorted power to raise the musical "floor" 3db. So at 6db reduction in noise floor, that is the equivalent to 50 watts becoming 200 watts of clean musical power. Again, Logarithmic, 50w doubled is 100w, 100w doubled is 200w, 200w doubled would be 400w etc. a 6db drop in noise floor is HUGE. You caught the only thing I was going to say otherwise: every phone based SPL app has an averaging feature. At least the 15-20 apps I've tested against my professional SPL tool. Technically the MIC is the key to SPL and sound frequency measurements. But the way you conducted the measurements was a fair apple-2-apple comparison and very valid. To build on another comment: the Roof skin, liking it to a drum head is 510% dead on. Especially in an SUV or a Wagon. Any vehicle I build (for me or a customer) gets 2 layers of peel-n-stick (P-n-S) , regardless of Pick-up or Long Roof (Wagon/SUV). Lastly: after years of car audio competition as a pro-builder and competitor, on P-n-S we usually do a "checkerboard" pattern over existing good OEM deadener, solid overage over quarters, door skin backs, usually the interior door skin (where the door panel/card) mounts full cover and foam as you did. P-n-S full coverage does indeed add more effect but its the law of diminishing returns and more weight. Good Job.
A lot of people don't realize that most Amazon Basics products, are actually just other really well selling products, that Amazon has branded with their name. I remember buying some Amazon Basics knee pads years ago, only to find out that they were exactly the same as the Home Depot Husky knee pads.
I found noico 8 mil to be about the same as dynamat extreme, although a little less pleasant to work with. Honestly though, these products mostly work for vibration, not road noise. The biggest difference maker for road noise (BY FAR) will be a second layer of carpet.
Im gonna do my car because I am into the whole car audio thing, not much worried about road noise, im at the point of windshield flex, i just wanna try to maintain my SPL or gain a half a number or so, but, a 500 dollar budget is significant for this type of project to me. I guess i am just used to finding ways to stretch a buck
There’s different brands of flashing with or without foil. The same thing, butyl rubber. It doesn’t out gas at all. Much less than dynamat but I don’t know if it’s more cost effective than the Amazon brand and weather it’s better or not, though.
@@markconley9279 Much cheaper! As for better I have no idea. But my Tacoma is quieter than a friends and he has Dynomat. But who knows how much and how its laid out.
I did the same thing to my f350. then I put 1" cotton denim insulation behind all the panels and under the floor. It was super quiet. couldn't even tell the engine was running and it was straight piped.
Hi mate just watched this vid and realised, it is not that hard to sound proof and heat proof my 80 series Landcruiser. Will pick up what I need to morrow and get into it. All the best from Perth Western Australia Peace bro
If you don't have a scrubber or need to make it quick. Take the carpet to the car wash or use a pressure washer at home. Becomes stupid clean. Been doing that for years. Doesn't tear up the carpet. And at the car wash, can put it on the soap setting and get deep clean. At home I use dawn or car wash soap and scrub with brush and then pressure wash it.
Wow that's a lot of work! I've been doing a lot of research on sound deadening I'm pretty sure your closed cell foam, CCF, is more ideal for use as a sound insulator than a sound absorber similar to mass loaded vinyl, MLV. For sound absorption you would want to use hydrophobic melamine foam, HMF instead.
I used the amazon stuff and it's was amazing. I needed a little bit more and the siless brand had the smallest quantity for my needs. The siless was terrible, super sticky, hard to peel the paper off and was all over my hands. Don't care for the blue color of the amazon, but it's quality and ease of installation was top notch
@@litoaykiu not mine. It’s held up really well. I’ve had to take it off a few spots and it isn’t easy. Did you prep and clean before applying? And did you use a good roller for application? The roller is probably the most important part. It really bonds it to the surface. I did the entire interior except the roof (which I might do this summer) and it made a big difference, especially in the doors and the way they sound shutting. It almost makes me want to do my tailgate… which is probably overkill.
@@garyng5662 The glue stays in place very secure. Cleaned and prepped, used the rollers that came with the kit; ones it is on it wouldn't come off. Kilmat did make a noticeably quieter. The issue is that aluminum and the black tar is turning into a white and black powder. Aluminum part flakes off. The only thing that is holding, is the glue. I just did where carpet was since I got water in from off-roading and needed to wash and dry it. Back side was also done. Now, got water in plus need exhaust. Thinking of doing doors and more floor insulation to compensate for new straight exhaust for more ground clearance. I have Weathertech floor mats (snowbelt with lots of salt), but majority of damage is on passenger side. My exhaust runs under passenger side, but I don't think it gets that hot make that difference. Since there is also power behind the driver where there is no exhaust.
Ballistol can bring failing window seals back to life. It's great at restoring plastics as well. You just use it as a cleaner and then buff it out. You also need more than just sound deadener to do this correctly. That sound deadener is just the first layer for acoustic management and it's not actually designed to block out road noise. It's more for vibrations and insulation. EDIT: I see you got the closed cell foam layer as well, that's the actual sound deadening layer.
Great video! I'm a total newbie at this stuff and found this really helpful. Gonna try using the Amazon stuff on my Highlander. Also, in terms of noise reduction, I have noticed that sound deadening makes a HUGE difference at reducing the droning noise of A/T tires on pavement. My best friend did some sound deadening in their Jeep, and while the road noise only got a little quieter, it got WAY less annoying. Very important when you have to drive 2 hours to get to the trailhead!
Hit a small bell: "Ting". Hit a larger bell: "Boooong" That's the "resonant" frequency of the object because of the material it is made with, its thickness etc. Go ahead, hit it as hard as you like - the sound will get louder, but the frequency will remain the same. The tar/foil coating changes the resonant frequency of the panel to a much much lower frequency which is not generated by road vibrations. The source of exciutation is still there when you drive, but the panel won't "resonante" at those frequencies = less sound. The thicker rubber coating does the same thing but at lower frequencies than the tar/foil stuff does.
Love your videos man. I got me an 40th anniversary 80 this year and I love it. Your videos give me a lot of knowledge on how I’m gonna tackle my projects on it once I can afford it.
Great job! You should check for rust at the bottom of your inner panels below the sliding rear windows. They are really prone to rust there. There's a drain plug there as well. It really sucks repairing that section if you have to because of rust.
Boy, you work fast! I didn't need to buy a roller. I just borrowed one of the wheels off my shop vac, but I have a smaller car. They're nothing special and like some things, they've invented the need for something when you can easily use something else.
To anyone wondering if it's worth it YES it is. I have a 95 suburban and i used lizard skin which uses a special spray gun on the under side or the cab and a generic something like what is in this video on the inside and it blocks out most of the noise from my nobby 35'' tires. It was one of the best upgrades i've ever done
The hexagon pattern is there to make sure you apply enough pressure when rolling. If the pattern is raised you haven’t applied enough pressure. A heat gun makes the process easier and help it stick. You don’t need a lot of heat or it will burn.
These materials offer a muffling to sound - true sound proofing (like in a studio) is layered materials w air gaps in between. Sound waves lose energy when they have to propagate from one surface or material to the next. But obviously that's impossible in a car. Great work, I need to do this to my car including the headliner.
Being a former car audio installer, one of the biggest culprits for road noise is the roof and doors. When I would get sound deadening projects, I would do both.
Carful with the doors. The rain when it gets in there is gonna rot that out potentially and all that stuff can clog the drain holes at the bottom. Good luck
To put that 3 decibels in perspective, if you were standing on a runway with a running jet engine and measured 110 decibels, if you fired up a second jet next to the first, the sound level would go up 3 decibels.
I have mostly used kilmatt. When I did my 08 tundra. 25mil on the doors. 50mil on the floors and pillars and 80mil on the roof. Lots of silicone inside the dash. Absolutely no rattles inside the truck. Mind you it's only 24k watts rms. I don't think it's brand so much as just installing the proper thickness and doing it correctly.
This is a great mod. The difference speaks for itself. I'm not sure if you'll be able to do it or not but people are now swapping a 100 series or even 200 series dash to older land cruisers. Makes it look way more modern from the inside.
Those carpet cleaners/ pet vacs are great for lazy detailers who just wanna get the top of carpets clean and make "lines". If your gonna put in the effort and remove the carpet, lay it out flat, use a pressure washer and some APC. Best thing you could ever do.
6db is equal to about a 66% increase in volume to the ear. A doubling of the SPL (volume) to the ear requires about 9-10 db increase in output or the reduction in noise to overcome. All things considered equal it works like this. 100 to 200 watts, 3 db. 200 to 400 watts, 3 db more or 6 db over 100 watts. 400 to 800 watts another 3 db or a doubling of the volume to the ear. 8 to 1 ratio when sing wattage is the mechanism for the desired increase in volume. Since the same works in reverse, 3 db decrease in noise, same as going from 100 to 200 watts, another 3 db down, same volume increase as though you went from 200 to 400 watts, etc.
As other comments, i would suggest to work at the ceiling. I have done a work like you in my car and i always though the windows get in so much noise, like, the cristals, in Mercedes there is a "special sound proof" windows and i think this should be worth it
this proved that you can achieve good or even better results yet for a cheaper route. yes it's somewhat a tedious job and in deed you had it done pretty neat. good job. cheers! 🇵🇭
When I did the same with my ‘06 Tundra, I pulled the carpet out and called a local carpet cleaning company and signed up for their “3 rooms for $99 special”. When the tech showed up I told him 2 rooms were in the house and the third was in the driveway. He did a great job and the carpet looked pretty darn good!
That's pretty smart, lol. When I was looking to rent equipment at home depot, I noticed carpet rentals at home depot for 4 hrs was $25
Exactly, those small upholstery cleaners are for touchups not really deep cleans. I just started doing some mold remediation out of my truck and it takes forever. Should have called in the pros!
@@cafenightster4548I wouldn't use those rug doctors they rent from either Home Depot or a grocery store, those things are absolute crap. Even brand new their suction is horrid, they dump too much water into your carpet and they leave a metric ton of soap behind so your carpeting will get dirty even faster than normal.
As someone who did carpet cleaning for a bit make sure to hire a guy that that has a built in steam cleaner in the van, they can adjust the temperature according to the material and it won't leave your carpet soaking wet for a day or so. (It's also why you don't want to hire Stanley Steamer because they just use the same shitty Rug Doctor machine just int heir own colors)
@@OriginalPoopMaster5000 a tiny ozone machine may work wonders to finish off your results in the truck, or anywhere else that's nasty.
@18_rabbit they are great little machines, I had an old project car that had been heavily smoked in, pressurewashed the carpets with some decent carpet cleaners and drill brush agitation before blasting it all out used a carpet cleaner on the seats and headliner then put the ozone inside to finish it up and the smell of old cigarettes was gone. Admittedly I also had a lot of Ash to clean up from all the crevices inside the car
Dude, the first minute of what you said is literally me rn. Feels good to be able to have money for my projects but different priorities now. 😅 wish I had a chance to meet you when we were still a local to the 559.
I still visit! Maybe you'll see me around on the trails
@@RM_Garage I’ll tell you what, Minnesota doesn’t have anything compared to Cali. 😂
@@vang1203 Cali is such a good place for project cars. Weather is never too bad except summer 100s
@RM_Garage you are from Fresno?
@@ClearWater7.62 I am from Fresno, but don't live in CA anymore.
I put the same amazon brand deadner on the ceiling of my Honda while I had the headliner out. It made a HUGE improvement in getting rid of the tin can sound, ESPECIALLY when it’s raining: the sound of the rain drops hitting the windshield and backlite glass is louder than the ones hitting the roof.
Doing the roof can make the biggest difference, especially in a truck like his. They usually put almost nothing on them from factory
TheRogueBro
So true I have a '97 Silverado K1500 extended cab and when I started my stereo system build I stripped the whole interior to do sound deadening/insulation and run cables and wiring. I was amazed at how little sound deadening there was from factory. There was none on the roof one small piece on each side of floor pan none in the doors and one small piece under the rear side window on each side and a small piece in center of rear wall there was also a very small piece behind radio on firewall. When I say small I mean like 4"×8" and very small was 3"×5". So needless to say it was a lot of material and work to get it right. Looking back it is a very good thing I started out by just stripping the entire interior.
Nice, what honda? I'm thinking of doing to my element
Nice project and great video! My gut feeling says that I wouldn't have put the secondary foam where you will have carpet but it IS NEEDED where you have Amazon Basics anti-resonant deadener but no carpet - especially behind loudspeakers, inside doors and side panels and so-on. You should drive the same route for a valid comparison because the road surface has a large influence on resonance and higher-frequency tyre noise. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@didiermejia780element should be a great candidate since the sheet metal is more expansive and flat. I'm having trouble in my Chevy TB after driving a Mercedes of same era for last 5 yrs. The Chevy roof is like a trampoline under modest hand pressure. Just doesn't compare to the roof of an e320 wagon.
Like you were sayin it’s very difficult to show the difference that is made for far too many reasons to list but I think the most important one is noise reduction that isn’t truly shown on a decibel meter. The meter just reads the loudest frequency registered, it doesn’t show which frequencies were reduced and by how much. For example, we tend to be very sensitive to the 1k-4k hz and sound deadening/absorption mainly reduces that range. So you could actually have a 20 db swing that would go unnoticed due to its limitations. Second, the lower frequencies are very difficult to absorb due to the wave lengths being so long, it would require several inches of padding up to several feet depending on which frequency you are trying to limit. Luckily, the lower the frequency, the more pleasant it’s generally perceived.
This 100%. I've done some sound deadening on my car and while the decibel test provided negligible results (just a couple db) the actual real life experience is noticeably more pleasant. The higher frequencies are muted and road noise doesn't make having actual conversations annoying.
Glad I scrolled down - I don't know a lot about sound engineering or acoustics, and I was wondering this. I don't regret the 120 lbs. I've added to my small sedan. It completely elevates the car. It's also cool when the stereo is turned up, all windows and doors closed, and then I open a door and a flood of great sounding music comes out.
A trick I've always done is just remove the weather barrier all together and put a second layer of sound deadener in place of it. The layer on the outer skin deadens the sound of the metal itself and the inner layer helps deaden the sound of the hollow of the door, plus it better isolates the rear wave of speakers from the cabin area.
Replacement carpet is also available with something called "mass backing" which reduces sound transfer. Its a big investment on an SUV at around 700 bucks for ultra plush carpet with mass backing, but it is great at making the interior look, feel, and smell new, especially on older vehicles with damaged carpet (stains, cigarette burns, tears, or wear through). Ive used stockinteriors for carpet on several projects, and their molded carpets have always been top quality, IMO
I’ve used stock interiors and I’m a big fan!
Just used them for my xj turned out great
The mass backing is just a layer of mass loaded vinyl added to the carpet. I was unaware people were doing this so I looked up for the carpet in my truck. It's $75 extra for the MLV backing on essentially 25sqft of carpet. MLV typically costs $2-$4 a sq ft, and the convenience of it already being attached to the carpet seems great. I'm probably going to order new carpet soon now, so thanks for the info.
I got an 80 aswell, home much of bothdid you end up consuming? Not thrill Ed about lifting console but be interesting to see how much coin under there
almost ALL resonate noise in a vehicle that large comes from, firewall, doors, rear gate... and believe it or not the roof of the vehicle acts like the skin on a drumhead. All road vibration while driving resonates UP, with all the effort you put into that you should do the ceiling & I would bet you would notice an Audible difference W/O the Db meter. I know I did, and I ONLY did the side panels doors and roof. LOL now mind you having crappy worn or chopped, or semi knobby tires doesn't help either(a good touring tire will kill a ton of road noise) Good Video!!
I was thinking doing the ceiling would also help reduce noise for anyone that has a roof rack.
Yes, firewall-doors-gate-WHEEL WELLS-roof.
- RMG is right, just do the doors and panels, BUT be sure to get those wheel wells covered too! You don't need to cover any of these 100% with the sound deadener/Mass-loaded material. Just cover most of it but you don't get much gain by going edge-to-edge.
- Tires are a big source of noise, and in a SUV like the LC, it's really big. Should always mass-load/deaden those surfaces that face the wheels as a priority, that wasn't really done here in this video.
- As to the roof - yep, lots of noise reduction if you do the interior ceiling, BUT - in any sort of hot climate, any time the vehicle is driven or parked in the sun, the heat will tend to soften the glue or bond, and then you get major drooping and all kinds of issues with it sagging into the headliner. It becomes a major PITA. The best solution is a spray-on deadener material that 100% bonds to the roof metal. That's a pain to do, but gives the least trouble long-term. And of course, any spray-on material is going to have fumes and stank that takes a while to go away. Again, 100% coverage isn't necessary, shoot to cover 60% to 70% of any of these surface areas for best 'bang for buck'.
Hey what is a "touring tire"? Just like a highway tire (meaning not-offroad or AT?)
I put some under my headliner .. helped with heat transfer in the summer too
Cant believe this isn't mentioned more! I did the ceiling with alu-butyl first then memory foam type thing specifically made for heat/cold transfers, I did it in the middle of summer and MAN what a difference couldn't believe it. My car used turn into furnace in 30 mins absolutely unbearable unless I opened all windows and waited 15 secs before getting in. Mind you I also had all my windows including windshield tinted in clear ceramic heat rejection tint, supposed to block ~70% of the heat IIRC. Limo ceramic tint the damn moonroof aswell
The opening lines here really, really resonate. I've had build sheets, lists, and bookmark folders for years now of all of the cars I've ever owned, currently own, or aspire to own. Gotta love it!
Time is the issue for most of us and/or a place to work on our vehicles. Nice video.
Yep. I'm fortunate to have a space to work on it but time...man. The ultimate dream is to have this be my job and then I will have time!
Im building a 7200 sq ft shop as we speak but it's 3 months behind schedule. I have so many projects to do and I'm impatient lol
@@RM_Garage
between biden economy, rent, bills and family, makes it difficult to justify
@@RM_Garageforgot to ask, would you do the sound deadening again and if so, would you do anything differently?
Great video! Yes db scale is logarithmic, 3db is a double or halving depending on direction. 3db is usually what it takes for the human ear to notice although come can notice 2db. 6 db reduction is excellent!
Yup! -3dB is half the sound and -6dB is 1/4 of the sound. You cut out 75% of the road noise.
Totally inaccurate statement. Logarithmic at a 10db scale 60db is half of 70db in perceived loudness. -7db is a 70% reduction in that 10db scale.
Wattage is the same 1w-10w-100w-1000w are 10db increases in sound level. A speaker with 79db @1w is twice as loud 89db @ 10watts etc....
Would take that dB meter app with a grain of salt though.
@@e.emerald3224 That is exactly right and people dealing with sound treatment should know. 10db less is hald the perceived loudness ! So, a reduction of 6 dB in sound level corresponds to a perceived noise reduction of about 34% which the human ear perceives as roughly one-third quieter. So it means the noise is not half but at 66% of the original.
I've done the same on a 99 Tacoma and 89 4runner. Makes a huge difference on these old trucks. My next tackles on the 80 are both rear door lock actuators don't work and my windows are so slow. I think I already purchased the runs, but a bottle of silicone spray actually did wonders a couple years ago.
I figure, doors off, replace speakers, locks, refresh window grease and sound deadening will be a good 3 for 1 winter project .
My rear windows are so slow that they bind and fall off the track, lol. I've used the silicone spray too.
It could be the factory grease inside of the window motors has dried out and causing resistance. See if they can be opened. Clean and re-grease, it will make a huge difference and prolong the life of the motor.
Clean the window tracks, the motors, the gears and the rollers with brake cleaner and then use white lithium grease to re-lube the motors, gears and rollers. This will make the windows go up and down a lot smoother and easier. Also check all window parts for loose rivets, if these are loose it will make the windows roll up and down with much more difficulty.
The similarities between this and my 97 Montero LS are astonishing. Absolutely loved that rig
Thanks for the heads up about the sound deadener. It's on my project list.Before I've removed carpet I took it to the car wash in the back of the truck and power washed it. Works like a champ.
You can cut up and use a clear shower curtain as the door barrier. They sell them for $1 at the dollar tree 😊. One should be enough
You could also go to the local salvage yard and pick up a nice oem, factory door barrier.
Good Tip 👍🏻
Excellent idea! I never would have thought of this, but after I swap me door speakers, I will be running out and buying a shower curtain to replace the torn plastic.
Too bad a door barrier isn't the main topic of this video nor will a door barrier have anything to do with making sound better. May block some moisture/water and shower curtain good idea and no brainer at same time. Lol!
I use frost king from Home Depot /lowes, it’s a fraction of the price and does the same as these expensive companies. It’s been in my daughter’s 2013 accord and still holds its value. No vibrations from the sound system and no road noise.
I did it on my 2015 kia rio! I did not do the floor but the hatch and backseat are covered, plus doors and rear quarter...huge improvement !about 100$ and an afternoon work time. i used amazon basic too, great product...my next car will get the same treatment!
How many sheets comes with one Amazon package?
A 3db reduction is very noticeable to the ear. To increase the sound by 3db takes a doubling of the power of an audio amplifier.
So a reduction of 6db is pretty big for an ambient noise drop. Nice.
I have the same leaking rear window...looking forward to seeing the fix for it! Great idea on the sound deadening too...more projects!
I remember adding sound deadening mats in my friend's Toyota Corolla as a teen. He could only afford to enough to install them in his doors first. It made a big difference. Then we installed some on his roof and that made a huge difference. I have a 2015 Toyota RAV4 that I've been tinkering with and this might be my next addition lol
I also have a 2015 Rav4 and am planning of sound deadening the rear seat and hatch storage area. Very very noisy and plenty of rattles back there. Toyota could have done more for sound proofing
I've used B-quiet products in the past with excellent results. I run mostly minivans which have a LOT of relatively flat steel to resonate. Adding carpet to hard plastic interior panels both reduces noise and much improves the feel when touching those panels. A dash carpet reduces sound reflections as well as light reflections from the windshield. Spray foam (Great Stuff or equivalent) in hollow panel areas absolutely kills resonance. If any of your doors have only a single seal adding a double or even triple seal can really help. Higher trim levels of some vehicles or different "brands" of the same vehicle often have better door seals which you can add. Different brands of tire can make a significant difference.
You make excellent points and advice!
I used it in my old Altima and I was extremely impressed.
Feel you on the money for projects. Bought a 2001 Camry, 16 years ago, and only just started. I blame 4 kids haha. But what i wanted back then has changed today.
Interesting that the amazon basics did so well. I plan to use an Australian made product for obvious reasons. But it did really well.
Should be noted, due to the way the decibel scale is, the quieter you make it, the more the measurement will jump around. But 60s is really good.
What product are you thinking? (I’m also in Aus)
I lined my '16 Tacoma in this due to your video. _For the money,_ nothing is better. Very pleased. Thank you!
Happy to help!
Great tips. Love the super glue on the masonite. A big contributor to driving noise in general is noise from the roof. Wind and vibration. You don't need to insulate/add material to the entire surface, just enough to add weight as it will make a significant difference as well.
Thanks! I will do the roof in the future, probably when I fix the sunroof.
@@RM_Garageand the rear wheel wells…Why didn’t you cover those? Lots of tire noise comes from that area, especially in the 80 series!
I did, before I put the rear carpet back in. I covered the parts that didn’t have factory sound deadening. Didn’t film it
@@RM_Garage Use a spray foam, don't use MLV or the Amazon Basic stuff. Your arms will thank you, and it will stay in place when its hot from the sun!
I put sound deadening materials to my E28 floor, roof, doors, pillars and wheel well. It made a significant difference in reducing vibrations and rattles.
But the biggest difference in my case was when I put those soft sound deadening foam and carpet bits of a BMW 7 series, glued thin carpets on the inner fenders like what some new cars have and replacing every rubber seals on the doors and windows, it greatly reduced the road, tire and wind noise, the lot.
Definitely worth it, roughly a 10 decibal reduction, which is about half as loud as it once was. Real basic rule of thumb, every 10db reduction is about half as loud to the human ear.
Don't forget the headliner for cutting the wind noise. awesome job.
I’m definitely going to put some of that sound deadener in my doors and quarter panels. And that tip about how to fix the door panels with the superglue Is a game changer!
One thing to be careful of is to make sure the super glue doesn't bleed through. 2 of the areas on my panel were *really* worn down and needed more glue than normal and it bled through. You can see it in the video when I reinstall the panel. This isn't normal, but can happen.
Great video. I just wanted to add my 2 cents. The decibel reading is a combination of sounds, not just road noise. You also have to factor in the noise from wind, engine, and tires. Tires are the worst because the type of tread can add several decibels depending on the type and how it interacts when in contact with the road. Add material to the underside of the hood if it doesn't already have it. And try adding some material to the inner fenders to absorb noise at the source. Luxury car manufacturers target specific areas of the interior and it looks like a patchwork of sound absorbing material when you take apart the interior. I suspect it's because applying soundproofing to the entire interior of the cabin won't result in a huge significance in sound deadening and it's not cost effective. Luxury auto makers also select tires that are quiet and I read somewhere there is a tire made with sound deadening material. Manufacturers also use special isolators in suspension components for their high-end cars. Rolls Royce had to remove some of their sound proofing because it was too good. Drivers were complaining that they didn't have a sense of being connected to the road and it was an eerie feeling while driving.
Deadening helps panel drone and resonances, but to really quieten down tyre noise/the engine, you want a thick felt, wool, or closed cell foam layer on the bulkhead and arches, with a layer of mass loaded vinyl over that, basically creating a cavity wall to stop the transmitted noise.
Doing the fender wells definitely helps especially if you go to a more aggressive tire
So glad i clicked on this video. Already have Soundskins for the doors, gunna use this for the floor and cabin of my truck 🛻
Did my 97 80 last summer with Amazon brand as the mat. Worked great. Thunk test is real!
Nice. I wonder what the Amazon brand is a mimic/copy of? It works really well
@@RM_Garage Exactly - the are totally "white labeling" somebody else's mat. Safe travels.
For the sound coming through the firewall, whenever you have a dash panel off cover it in the foam or sound deadener. Stops vibration and reduces the noise. You can also put some sound deadening on the engine bay side if you really wanted too
Some advice, start with fixing all the window and door seals. The wind noise is going to be most noticeable.
Then listen for the actual sources of vibration based noise and treat those areas. When the first source of noise is reduced, you'll then get a new noticeable source of noise. Keep going. Do the tap test to find resonances.
Even if you don't need the deadening under the carpet, depending on the age of the car or how it's used, it's probably worth it just for the cleaning and maintenance alone. Also gives you the opportunity to check for any spots of rust starting and making sure all the wiring is still in good condition with no corrosion. And as you noticed in your video, you also found some water leak spots haha.
Not sure if you've done it yet, but putting some about the headliner is HUGE.
Dad and i just did it to his 85 ranger, 320cc😉 and my old 81 j10, nothing but thuds, and easy talking. We got the idea from my uncle that assembled tractor cabs years ago. Takes away the return echo.
I bought a cheap metal IKEA cabinet - threw a pack of those same sound deadening pads it it, and now it's just a dead thud on every panel 😄
It's so much nicer driving a car that has been sound deadend correctly. Even without having a big aftermarket stereo, it makes it so much quieter while driving. 👍
You'll notice the biggest difference with the roof. It's so surprising how auto MFGs don't do anything to insulate the roof outside of some foam headliner fabric. Also, if you use thermal insulation, your interior temps will stay much cooler longer if you have tint.
Closed cell insulating camping pads work well for insulation.. 1/2" thick so you must consider that. I put it over the butyl deadener.
Nice job. I did the exact same procedure with the same product on my 97 LX450. It’s also a great time to change out the fuel sock if you haven’t yet. Great build and hope to see ya on the trail someday.
Ah yeah, I definitely want to do that. It's so easy to get to, might as well.
I’ve got a 97 LX also. What’s a fuel sock?
I've used 1/2" recycled foam carpet underlayment as sound deadener in the side panels of a VW van. It works quite well with just some spray adhesive.
Good tip! I might do that
The bulkhead and underside of the bonnet is also a good place to deaden... engine noise frequencies also effect cab noise.
I did this to my Landcruiser Troopy. It was almost a legal requirement to drive that hollow tin can. The different types of deadening are used because sound doesn’t transfer from one density to another really well Great truck dude 💪💪💪
Usually the first thing I put it on is the wheel wells. Think about it, that’s where 99% of road noise comes from. At the end when you were applying the 2nd layer in the back I noticed you only had the factory deadener on them. I’d definitely have at least two, possibly three if there was enough
I bought the Amazon basics stuff off return pallet warehouse for $1.50 a box. 10"x16", normally $40 a box. I managed to get 10 boxes for $15. Love the stuff
Nice score!
I paid full price 😭😭😭
I so get the opening. I had a badass 65’ Mustang my Dad and I built, but I couldn’t afford to what I really wanted. Later I had an 85’ GT, couldn’t afford to modify it. Now I’m about to retire for the second time. I just naught a $1,700 tool for my workshop and I’m shopping for a 66-67 Shelby, or a 66’ convertible to build up. I got the money, and about to have the time. Oh, on the sound deadening I used expanding foam in the body parts I couldn’t get to. I used neoprene matting between the skin and interior panels. I used some heavy duty sound matting for the flooring and doors and hatch. I have an 85’ Cherokee I take hunting. It’s rigged to camp in and secure my weapons. I have a great sound system in it. Now I can blow money on my cars and hardly think about it. Keep it up!
I'm glad people have been able to relate to that opening line. Love it!
Thanks for the tip on the amazon basics stuff, My Lincoln did not come with extra deadener over the basic crown vic it shares a platform with, the difference is in the foam formed mass backed essex pile carpet
I pressure washed the heck out of my carpets out of my Lincoln, I also used Purple power and drill brushes over several days to get the stains and caked in dirt and rust out, I then switched to woolite with oxylean to make it smell good...I hung it up then used the pressure washer to rinse the soap out and a hand held brush to fluff up the fibers again while it dried looked brand new other than the three large cigarette burn marks from the old lady that owned it before me...
Sadly I'm a bit OCD and once I see something it stands out....My plan is to dye it pitch black but it's so large it wont fit into any container or reasonably sized cheap pool...with these carpets you need to soak it for a long time, like a week or more and the dye needs to stay at least warm...so it's best to do that in summertime...
It's amazing how much effort you have to put into a Toyota to make it more pleasant for actual driving.
That’s about any car. Same process
Loved the superglue trick - cheers mate :)
Run some weed whacker string through the sunroof drains. Carefully. If you have a damp interior, they’re probably clogged.
Yep I've heard of that and I'll have to do that. Thanks!
I used weed trimmer string (orange) in my GTIs front sunroof drains. I used 3-4 inches and made a "U" shape and put it in the drain nipple in the front door jam. Then left about 1/4" visible. This was done to allow water and any small dirt to easily exit the drain and prevent backups
Didn't really need the decibel app, for confirmation. As long as your recording settings, and the mic you are using is the same?
You can hear the difference, between the pre, and post, of the soundproofing job. Your voice is much clearer.
Same mic! Thanks!
6db measured is good bang for the $$ and effort. While 1 person kinda (tried to) touched on it: a musical analogy/reference for the human ear to perceive change in volume, the increased output needs to be roughly 3db, this is AUDIBLY, at the ear. Now, "feeling" ie: low frequencies (bass) can be much less and 3db in 200hz or less is a MAJOR boost in low-end output. Another measurable way to look at it: to increase musical output inside a given space it requires roughly a doubling of output power (wattage) to achieve 3db of gain. So tying the 2 analogies together: for an AUDIBLE musical gain, a car with a measured 50 watts of musical power would require 100 watts of equivalent, clean, undistorted power to raise the musical "floor" 3db. So at 6db reduction in noise floor, that is the equivalent to 50 watts becoming 200 watts of clean musical power. Again, Logarithmic, 50w doubled is 100w, 100w doubled is 200w, 200w doubled would be 400w etc. a 6db drop in noise floor is HUGE. You caught the only thing I was going to say otherwise: every phone based SPL app has an averaging feature. At least the 15-20 apps I've tested against my professional SPL tool. Technically the MIC is the key to SPL and sound frequency measurements. But the way you conducted the measurements was a fair apple-2-apple comparison and very valid. To build on another comment: the Roof skin, liking it to a drum head is 510% dead on. Especially in an SUV or a Wagon. Any vehicle I build (for me or a customer) gets 2 layers of peel-n-stick (P-n-S) , regardless of Pick-up or Long Roof (Wagon/SUV). Lastly: after years of car audio competition as a pro-builder and competitor, on P-n-S we usually do a "checkerboard" pattern over existing good OEM deadener, solid overage over quarters, door skin backs, usually the interior door skin (where the door panel/card) mounts full cover and foam as you did. P-n-S full coverage does indeed add more effect but its the law of diminishing returns and more weight. Good Job.
A lot of people don't realize that most Amazon Basics products, are actually just other really well selling products, that Amazon has branded with their name. I remember buying some Amazon Basics knee pads years ago, only to find out that they were exactly the same as the Home Depot Husky knee pads.
I found noico 8 mil to be about the same as dynamat extreme, although a little less pleasant to work with. Honestly though, these products mostly work for vibration, not road noise. The biggest difference maker for road noise (BY FAR) will be a second layer of carpet.
Did my 13 Rav with killmat. Same stuff looks like. Foil and butyl. What a difference. Did the 4 doors too. Might do the hatch next.
I just ordered the Amazon basic and the ccf mat. Going to do a little at a time because it’s a daily driver. Thanks for the video
17:00 that's a freakin' genius idea, thank you for sharing that strategy!
Just be careful you don’t let it bleed through like I did!
Im gonna do my car because I am into the whole car audio thing, not much worried about road noise, im at the point of windshield flex, i just wanna try to maintain my SPL or gain a half a number or so, but, a 500 dollar budget is significant for this type of project to me. I guess i am just used to finding ways to stretch a buck
I bought the Siless version. Was a bit cheaper than even the amazon brand. Works well so far. Have not got interior back together yet.
Props for knowing what a logarithmic scale is.
I just use Lowe's roof flashing. Has the tar and the foil. Works great and cheap as heck.
and outgasses the entire time... stinky
@@K03sport Hasn't done so yet! Been using it for 20 plus years!
I’ve used it before with good success. No smell at all. Just leaves a little more cleanup behind. Nothing major
There’s different brands of flashing with or without foil. The same thing, butyl rubber. It doesn’t out gas at all. Much less than dynamat but I don’t know if it’s more cost effective than the Amazon brand and weather it’s better or not, though.
@@markconley9279 Much cheaper! As for better I have no idea. But my Tacoma is quieter than a friends and he has Dynomat. But who knows how much and how its laid out.
I did the same thing to my f350. then I put 1" cotton denim insulation behind all the panels and under the floor. It was super quiet. couldn't even tell the engine was running and it was straight piped.
That is a HUGE difference! Nice vid.
Hi mate just watched this vid and realised, it is not that hard to sound proof and heat proof my 80 series Landcruiser. Will pick up what I need to morrow and get into it. All the best from Perth Western Australia Peace bro
If you don't have a scrubber or need to make it quick. Take the carpet to the car wash or use a pressure washer at home. Becomes stupid clean. Been doing that for years. Doesn't tear up the carpet. And at the car wash, can put it on the soap setting and get deep clean. At home I use dawn or car wash soap and scrub with brush and then pressure wash it.
6 to 7 is HUGE. Remember it's not a linear scale! ❤
Wow that's a lot of work!
I've been doing a lot of research on sound deadening I'm pretty sure your closed cell foam, CCF, is more ideal for use as a sound insulator than a sound absorber similar to mass loaded vinyl, MLV. For sound absorption you would want to use hydrophobic melamine foam, HMF instead.
Thanks for posting. I am about to do this and appreciate your video
I used the amazon stuff and it's was amazing. I needed a little bit more and the siless brand had the smallest quantity for my needs. The siless was terrible, super sticky, hard to peel the paper off and was all over my hands. Don't care for the blue color of the amazon, but it's quality and ease of installation was top notch
I used this exact stuff in my 2015 tundra about 2 years ago and it’s really really good.
How does your stuff hold up? I got Kilmat in my F-150 and it's falling apart after 2 years.
@@litoaykiu not mine. It’s held up really well. I’ve had to take it off a few spots and it isn’t easy.
Did you prep and clean before applying? And did you use a good roller for application? The roller is probably the most important part. It really bonds it to the surface.
I did the entire interior except the roof (which I might do this summer) and it made a big difference, especially in the doors and the way they sound shutting. It almost makes me want to do my tailgate… which is probably overkill.
@@garyng5662 The glue stays in place very secure. Cleaned and prepped, used the rollers that came with the kit; ones it is on it wouldn't come off. Kilmat did make a noticeably quieter. The issue is that aluminum and the black tar is turning into a white and black powder. Aluminum part flakes off. The only thing that is holding, is the glue.
I just did where carpet was since I got water in from off-roading and needed to wash and dry it. Back side was also done. Now, got water in plus need exhaust. Thinking of doing doors and more floor insulation to compensate for new straight exhaust for more ground clearance.
I have Weathertech floor mats (snowbelt with lots of salt), but majority of damage is on passenger side. My exhaust runs under passenger side, but I don't think it gets that hot make that difference. Since there is also power behind the driver where there is no exhaust.
Ballistol can bring failing window seals back to life. It's great at restoring plastics as well. You just use it as a cleaner and then buff it out.
You also need more than just sound deadener to do this correctly. That sound deadener is just the first layer for acoustic management and it's not actually designed to block out road noise. It's more for vibrations and insulation.
EDIT: I see you got the closed cell foam layer as well, that's the actual sound deadening layer.
I can hear a difference in road noise without the numbers verifying it.
Good job I'm sold on that product, thanks...
Great video! I'm a total newbie at this stuff and found this really helpful. Gonna try using the Amazon stuff on my Highlander.
Also, in terms of noise reduction, I have noticed that sound deadening makes a HUGE difference at reducing the droning noise of A/T tires on pavement. My best friend did some sound deadening in their Jeep, and while the road noise only got a little quieter, it got WAY less annoying. Very important when you have to drive 2 hours to get to the trailhead!
Hit a small bell: "Ting".
Hit a larger bell: "Boooong"
That's the "resonant" frequency of the object because of the material it is made with, its thickness etc. Go ahead, hit it as hard as you like - the sound will get louder, but the frequency will remain the same.
The tar/foil coating changes the resonant frequency of the panel to a much much lower frequency which is not generated by road vibrations. The source of exciutation is still there when you drive, but the panel won't "resonante" at those frequencies = less sound.
The thicker rubber coating does the same thing but at lower frequencies than the tar/foil stuff does.
Love your videos man. I got me an 40th anniversary 80 this year and I love it. Your videos give me a lot of knowledge on how I’m gonna tackle my projects on it once I can afford it.
Thanks man! Wish I could make them more often but super busy. New video soon hopefully
Great job! You should check for rust at the bottom of your inner panels below the sliding rear windows. They are really prone to rust there. There's a drain plug there as well. It really sucks repairing that section if you have to because of rust.
Yep, I did. No rust there and then went ahead and coated it with rustoleum anyway.
Boy, you work fast! I didn't need to buy a roller. I just borrowed one of the wheels off my shop vac, but I have a smaller car. They're nothing special and like some things, they've invented the need for something when you can easily use something else.
Researching sound reduction materials for my CNC. Pretty sure imma go with the automotive stuff here.
Dude I thought I was the only one in the world that spent hours and hours writing detail lists of upgrade parts and theoretical builds in the future!
To anyone wondering if it's worth it YES it is. I have a 95 suburban and i used lizard skin which uses a special spray gun on the under side or the cab and a generic something like what is in this video on the inside and it blocks out most of the noise from my nobby 35'' tires. It was one of the best upgrades i've ever done
The hexagon pattern is there to make sure you apply enough pressure when rolling. If the pattern is raised you haven’t applied enough pressure.
A heat gun makes the process easier and help it stick. You don’t need a lot of heat or it will burn.
These materials offer a muffling to sound - true sound proofing (like in a studio) is layered materials w air gaps in between. Sound waves lose energy when they have to propagate from one surface or material to the next. But obviously that's impossible in a car. Great work, I need to do this to my car including the headliner.
Being a former car audio installer, one of the biggest culprits for road noise is the roof and doors. When I would get sound deadening projects, I would do both.
Yeah the reason I didn’t do it is because the early 80 series (91-94) are so annoying to tear the head liner out of. I may do it later.
Carful with the doors. The rain when it gets in there is gonna rot that out potentially and all that stuff can clog the drain holes at the bottom. Good luck
Might as well install some level IIIA soft armor in the doors and quarter panels while your at it
It's a lot of work. Roller and utility knife are your best tools. I've been doing this to every vehicle I've own since the late 90s.
To put that 3 decibels in perspective, if you were standing on a runway with a running jet engine and measured 110 decibels, if you fired up a second jet next to the first, the sound level would go up 3 decibels.
I have mostly used kilmatt. When I did my 08 tundra. 25mil on the doors. 50mil on the floors and pillars and 80mil on the roof. Lots of silicone inside the dash. Absolutely no rattles inside the truck. Mind you it's only 24k watts rms. I don't think it's brand so much as just installing the proper thickness and doing it correctly.
BTW, every three decibels is a difference of two times the previous value.
Yes this it doesn’t sound like much but a 3 db loss is huge it’s halving the interior noise in terms of what you hear.
so it’s like exponential
This is a great mod. The difference speaks for itself.
I'm not sure if you'll be able to do it or not but people are now swapping a 100 series or even 200 series dash to older land cruisers. Makes it look way more modern from the inside.
Those carpet cleaners/ pet vacs are great for lazy detailers who just wanna get the top of carpets clean and make "lines". If your gonna put in the effort and remove the carpet, lay it out flat, use a pressure washer and some APC. Best thing you could ever do.
6db is equal to about a 66% increase in volume to the ear. A doubling of the SPL (volume) to the ear requires about 9-10 db increase in output or the reduction in noise to overcome. All things considered equal it works like this. 100 to 200 watts, 3 db. 200 to 400 watts, 3 db more or 6 db over 100 watts. 400 to 800 watts another 3 db or a doubling of the volume to the ear. 8 to 1 ratio when sing wattage is the mechanism for the desired increase in volume. Since the same works in reverse, 3 db decrease in noise, same as going from 100 to 200 watts, another 3 db down, same volume increase as though you went from 200 to 400 watts, etc.
The roof is a big megaphone. Sound insulation there reaps huge benefits
As other comments, i would suggest to work at the ceiling. I have done a work like you in my car and i always though the windows get in so much noise, like, the cristals, in Mercedes there is a "special sound proof" windows and i think this should be worth it
Did you end up putting sound deadening over the rear wheel wells? If not, I bet that would help too.
One of the things I did included this, but also taking some denim loose fabric insulation and putting it in the cavities.
Got a link?
this proved that you can achieve good or even better results yet for a cheaper route.
yes it's somewhat a tedious job and in deed you had it done pretty neat. good job.
cheers! 🇵🇭