Our Cheap Cadillac Escalade Was Hiding A SERIOUS Surprise! $550 Cadillac Escalade PT: 2
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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🔧 Welcome to The Questionable Garage, where Jared takes on the challenge of a lifetime with a $500 Cadillac Escalade that has stumped the pros! 🚗💨 Join us on this wild ride as Jared dives headfirst into fixing all the small issues that left even the experts scratching their heads.
🛠️ In this episode, we uncover the hidden mysteries of this budget-friendly Escalade, addressing the niggling problems that no one else could conquer. From quirky quirks to mysterious malfunctions, Jared fearlessly takes on the task, promising an epic transformation.
🔍 But hold on tight, because things take an unexpected turn! 😱 As the repairs unfold, Jared finds himself knee-deep in a mechanical maze, and what started as a routine fix quickly becomes a high-stakes challenge. Will he triumph over adversity, or will this $500 deal turn into a garage nightmare?
🚨 Brace yourselves for the unexpected twists, hilarious mishaps, and jaw-dropping surprises as Jared navigates through the chaos. From fun upgrades to unforeseen challenges, The Questionable Garage leaves no bolt unturned in this automotive rollercoaster.
🔩 Can Jared conquer the odds and reassemble the engine from scratch? Will this Cadillac Escalade rise from the ashes and prove to be the ultimate bargain, or is it destined for the scrapyard? 🤔 Tune in, buckle up, and get ready for an adrenaline-pumping journey with The Questionable Garage!
🔥 Don't forget to like, subscribe, and hit that notification bell to join us on this epic automotive adventure. Who said fixing a $500 car would be easy? 🚙✨ #QuestionableGarage #CarRescue #DIYAuto #EpicFail #MechanicalMayhem
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'...........fix the cigarette lighter.' 😎
🎙 🤷 🚔
Where can I get the breaks from? Can you share all the infor for the breaks, I have a 2004 EXT and a 2003 Hummer, I would love those brakes on both. Thank you.
I had to replace a fan clutch on a 4.0 WJ. It was a major pain in the ass because straight 6. I tried all of the tools beside the air hammer type (I had no compressor in the garage) but nothing worked.
My solution that did work was to buy a Milwaukee M18 Orbital Super Sawzall and a couple blades. In about 10 minutes I got that sucker sawn off. It was also an excuse to buy a good tool.
After that my fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing and serpentine belt replacement went easily.
@@JasonGunn418 2007 Chevy Tahoe Pursuit truck is what I ordered.
What, that thing doesn't have the aux input that you can plugin to your phone 2000's style? Edit: After googling, no, that was still only a 3rd party option back then on premium expensive units, thinking back, yeah my Pioneer unit didn't have that but it was the baseline aftermarket system. Some systems did have line input, but nothing from GM at that time....honestly, in 2004 most of us were still using a discman and the cassette tape adapter in the cheap not current vehicle we were driving at the time, by that time I had my own car but I still kept it for when driving in a friend's car if they didn't harbour their own tunes....also yes, I can understand why you might just want to fiddle through it while listening to music at times, especially if it's not behaving....
Dorman makes the exhaust manifold clamp kit, they do in fact have one for every bolt on the manifold. There’s a cutout for the coolant temp sensor. I’ve had good luck with them!
This vehicle had a couple of those...I had not seen them before.
I have found TIG welding the nut to stud for the exhaust manifolds works better as you can focus the heat into the stud better.
That’s by far the most successful thing I’ve tried but I don’t have access to one outside of work. Tig seems to work 80% of the time on the first rip and mig seems to be a 50/50 shot.
Not really necessary. Just buy yourself the induction heater kit for nuts and you'll be set. If you deal with more than 10 nuts a year, it's worth it. Even in sh!tuations where you can't heat the nut and have to heat the bolt, it still works and it's fast as snapping your fingers.
@@aserta So what you are saying is you have never done that job before🤣. Its a bolt that shears off into the head, not a nut. The head of the bolt is often broken before even touching the project.
@@asertano use at all if they are already broken Beneath the head surface like they often are
In my experience a stick weld got the job done pretty quickly, really nailed the heat into that stud after I spent about 2 hours trying to use stud extractors and mig on it
In todays video we learned that sometimes fixing everything properly is a questionable decision.
But, it seemed like a good idea at the time.
I have welded broken studs for years. I always wait for the bolt to cool down so it has its strength back and it usually comes right out. Usually.
bought a 5.3 chevy truck.... kept throwing the light. finally boiled down the knock sensors. the consignment lot had pressure washed the engine and flooded the knock sensors, of course the throttle sensor was flooded too... had to pull the intake manifold and all those fun parts but finally got them done... truck runs perfect now.... ok, tie rods and other suspension front and rear goodies too... $1000. and I have a dependable truck... so far only one broken exhaust manifold bolt.... when I dealt with this problem on a 454 I had to hit every bolt with PB blaster each day and try each bolt, got all but one out, had to drill it out as it was broken off below the head surface. I put on new split dorman ex man's with steel studs and brass nuts and never had another problem...
Jared, for those broken bolts/studs you can’t reach, I’ve found that a Dewalt 90° drill adapter, and a Ingersol Rand 90° pneumatic drill (the whole contraption ends up looking like a N) is essential to drill out those rear bolts
Dorman makes a tool for these broken studs/bolts, my yukonxl has a couple... if I lose too many, then I'll shell out some $$ just not worth it to waste time on them.
An old boss was a shade tree mechanic like the rest of us. His widow said he went out in the driveway, jacked up his car and went to work. By the afternoon she realized he hadn’t come in all day and when she finally checked he had been crushed for hours. Use Jack stands.
I feel your frustration but I have a sugestion for you, I was an exhaust fitter for years and was told by an old timer "DO NOT WELD A NUT TO A STUD" weld a washer to the very end of the broken stud you get way better penetration into the stud ( with a nut you will only penetrate in the middle you want to penetrate around the edge for better torque ) then weld a larger diameter bolt (almost as big as the outside diameter of the washer) to the the washer this gives you way more surface area. please try this on the studs in those heads if you still have them, you will see how much easier they come out and you may be able to use those heads on the other project you mentioned in the video.
Please keep up the good work I love your videos!
This is why you never change sparkplugs. It inevitably escalates (escalades?) into a full engine rebuild.
I totally understand replacing the heads. On a 150k engine a head job buys you a lot of reliability and allowed you to replace a couple of trouble spots (intake gasket leaks that cause "hunting" in cold weather. The only questionable thing i saw was not replacing the tuming cover gasket... From my experience I assure you it won't get any better and you were right there??? I also agree with you on keeping it stock. Your daily beater needs to have rock solid reliability. When you sit down in it and turn the key it needs to jump to life every time. When everything around you is going to hell... The beater should be the last of your problems. Excellent work Jared.
Jared, you are the master mechanic…way to go all the way 🎉🎉🎉
The 4.7 and 5.7 in the dodges, have the same problem with back bolts breaking.
The power enrichment can be a little bit of pep I fixed it on my 05 EXT it made a big difference for just a few changes
2019 to current brembo will fit, just use a couple washers to center the caliper
Legit Street Cars has one. He replaced a transmission temperature sensor block thing mounted on the frame somewhere. Check into that.
I think Dorman makes those exhaust manifold clamps. They make different styles to fit in the different positions. I had a couple of leaks several years ago on my Suburban of the same vintage. Both have continued to be leak free and were pretty easy to install.
I've used a 90degree drill attachment with left directional drill bits and an easy-out kit for broken bolts like that.
This might be a bit to old now but for anyone that has a 3.1 GM engine from the 1990's the electronic ignition coil pack and the module under it works best if removed off of the engine block side to a place away from the engine exhaust heat. I ran into the problem with my 1993 Sunbird of the car just dying or acting like it had major engine trouble on a warm day if it sat in traffic for to long. When it did die I had it towed and the module got replaced and the problem came back a few months or a year later. The garages often told me that the module will just die, so my theory of the car acting like it had other engine problem was not the module. I must have had several tows and I began to replace the module on my own, so it might have been 5 or more times. Well proved them all wrong. I moved that assemble off the engine, to behind the battery, having to extend only the shielded crank sensor wire, and un-ravel the module wires from the harness. That car was still work after 300,000 miles. I have a 1991 with the same engine and about a year after I bought it, I moved that module assemble as well, but it had to go under the brake master cylinder area since the place behind the battery had the windshield washer container there. It is around 165,000 and I intend on getting it to 300,000 as well. I can guess most of these were junked way before their time because of the GM MFG error, and people thought they had major engine problems.
I think this video is a prime example of why you call the channel the questionable garage. Excellent video per usual, and I feel you as I have gone to fix a small problem only to have it become a much bigger problem.
Just had to pull heads to fix the same problem on a suburban…. Wasnt fun… but was worth it
There are harder trucks to pull heads on. It really does it a point where you decide it isn’t worth fighting in the engine bay for it
@@TheQuestionableGarage oh for sure harder trucks to pull heads on…. LS engine family is really easy to work on for the most part
Amen brother I know you are a safe mechanic ! Other than forgetting your safety glasses .
you got Travis's truck in there !
Landscapers are the bane of a RUclipsrs existence...that and no muffler Newton!
Refinish the head light assemblies or get some new ones to freshen up the front a bit?
I can honestly sympathize with you on the exhaust bolts-did them on my 06 Avalanche and them my 08 Silverado. 2 months later found the frame rotted out behind the drivers side fuel tank and scrapped the truck. GM frames and Canadian winters don’t mix despite oil spray twice a year since the truck was new. I hope you keep this truck moving forward and letting those gorgeous dogs enjoy their new ride!
Beautiful truck. Now with all the big maintenance done. A truck that fits a large male. Well done. You deserve it. You gave yourself (and the dogs) a christmas gift. Merry christmas and a happy New Year.
Thx for doing this, filming it and sharing it with us. 👍👍👍👍👍
Any time!
I really enjoy your channel! I think it’s really interesting and informative! Thank you for putting in the time and effort. I learn something new with every video. Thank you!
That isnt defeated appearance.
Defeated appearance is one where you close up the garage and do not go back in for six months.
Thanks for the jack stands...I was holding my breath the whole time...But thought, "This guy is a mechanic...He cannot be that stupid or he would already be dead" haha
Maybe you should put in it a supercharger.
What’s not to love about GMT800s? I specialize in GM trucks and LS performance, and only drive gmt800s for my daily’s. My current one is a 02 Yukon XL 2500 8.1. Have a Silverado 8.1 as well it just doesn’t really get daily use.
Just make it OEM plus. Just upgrade a little
There is a technique to weld steel to aluminium, its something that is done here close to me - it uses explosives, to induce immense pressure and heat into both materials, until they bond (mostly used for big sheets of metal). Crazy shit, but bonds apparently almost anything together. Its called Sprengschweissen in german, don't know what its called in english.
Questionable garage: "Let's pull the heads to fix an exhaust leak" LOL that's some snowballing there, feel bad for ya but entertained at the same time
Why didn’t you extract the bolt, after you removed the head. Then reinstall the same head?
17:00 can't see what your working on.. Try changing spartkplugs on a renault espace 4 3,5 V6...
Jared I truly enjoy your videos. Your personality and sense of humor goes really a long way. If there is one and only one suggestion I can make to improve production? Is modify the time lapse between all the actual wrenching. It will give the video a much quicker pace. And make the video feel more exciting. 👍 is excellent.
I love Jared's optimism
I mean, Geez, Jared; while you were in there, surely you had a thought or two about a cam, a good truck grind, yeah, and those pesky iron manifolds have to go- headers it is! The intake manifold decision will just about make itself, and who ever heard of a new manifold and cam without some up rated fuel injectors- because you are already in there....Jared, you may have broken through and have got control of this terrible, deep problem....... tomorrow you will probably go looking for an additional 100hp for Earl Leaker. It's OK, Jared, we like you just as you come to us. Happy New Year and many Questionable Jobs to You!
"Off with your heads"!!!
The new 6 piston tahoe PPV brakes will bold on. I was able to get everything from rock auto for about 1100 bucks for the front. 6 piston/16.25" rotors/CFC pads
You can put the k&n cold air kit and it will give it more midrange acceleration and a little bit better gas mileage out of that ls engine
You should add a supercharger
This feels like a HOLY 💩 my (I bought a cheap Escalade video) has 299k views 🤯 We need a part 2 🤔
I can't tell you the amount of times i pulled an engine just to change spark plugs. 😂
25:38 iF YOU WANT TO CHECK efficiency of the worker, in order to possibly FIRE HIM, check out the 3 minute MUSICAL vid screen changes OVER HIS NOGGIN there.
Every time that vid screen icon changes, that's 3 minutes of work. Is he fired ?
LOL - answer below.
I'm new to the channel and I've been searching for that "truckerari" in the background. Where are the videos on that?
You think that is bad on ford's FE blocks there have been few of the top bolts of the exhaust manifold that I haven't had to drill out but if you drill just before the threads show you can usually get it out and save threads that has been something nice because I don't like putting nuts on the top dang I got side tracked sorry.
I have an 03 tahoe with wet driver side floorboard, do you know of any common leak spots on the firewall? Awesome videos!
As frustrating as these projects can be. They are the most satisfying to complete.
Yep I've been there
You should do a cold air intake, mild exhaust headers, x-pipe and a set of Borla turning mufflers, with a beltach 2-4 lowering kit, that should keep it very daily friendly and give it a bit of grunt.
I really enjoy your videos. You have interesting content and a great approach to your repairs.
Thank you very much!
I think it's worth it, Cuz that's a good truck.
I love watching your videos and i love this Cadillac!
Glad you like them!
Got a link to the front brake kit you used?
Just off the shelf factory parts! 2007/2008 Tahoe pursuit calipers and rotors!
I found an easier way to remove broken bolts instead of welding a nut to them and taking hours of your day to do that. Grab an old socket you're not using, just a bit smaller than the broken bolt and tap the socket on the bolt and crank that sucker out with a rachet. I've done this plenty of times without hurting the thread in the block or cylinder heads.
I'm at a loss. Why couldn't you use the old heads?
Does this mean your problems have uhhhh. Escalated?
Oh man… groaner there
I can relate with the abusive relationship with these things. I bought a 2006 Saturn Ion 3 4 door coup 2.4L as a project car and its been one thing after another the front end was shot transmission sycros gear 1 2 and 3 shot but engine ran great ( with problems that serfaced as i was fixing codes) now after reworking the front end including shocks and struts one transmission and 2 yes 2 clutch kits and almost every sensor replaced on the engine for code problems and repairing 3 broken wire to the pig tails. Engine Idle goes to 2600 rpm no vacumm leaks what so ever replaced the ECM and idle problem solved now ive got crankshaft postion sensor not happy OMG will it ever end. So yeah I can certainly relate
Normal guy: my car has a exhaust leak it needs welding
Car guy: my car has exhaust leak i need a straight pipe a turbo, cams and forged pistons
The welder were i work often get snapped bolt that are snapped inside the tread by welding directly on the end of the and building it up untill he can weld a nut on and he always uses much bigger nuts to burn them it with loads of heat, he never fails to remove them( apart from 1 head bolt 3" down ), i use to enjoy drilling snapped bolts but he gets them out too easy isn't worth me trying anymore 😂
pull plastic fender liners... lots more room and your working in front of yourself, not down in a hole...
Only reason i watched the rsl ad is because of the puppy playing it
How much for the "Toy-sterrosa"?
so two grand if you can find a decent mechanic that is why they sell them to wreckers
Take a shot every time Jared sighs, in solidarity, of course.
wait till you work on an upstate new york truck
I mean, Alex from LSC hotrodded his Escalade for his wife to use as a kid hauler, which she has given up for a Tesla... and he's now running it as a daily. Why not slap some mods on this thing and put the FUN in functional for your kid hauler? ;)
Did someone say supercharger?
All my bolts were broken even the manifold was broken so I went in under the fender by removing the inner fender panel.
On the Chevy pickups I've always pulled the wheels and fender liners and pulled the manifolds that way along with welding nuts to the broken studs. Seems to me a lot harder to do it from the top, especially since you have a lift. I've done a couple dozen of these and never ever had to pull heads.
Yep I'll grab ahold of the metal fender liners in 5.3 envoys with a pipe wrench bend it up weld the nuts on to get the studs out the bend the fender liners back and reinstall the manifolds
The only way to fix the broken exhaust bolts on LS engines is to weld nuts to them.
Works so good and is so fast. Can't even imagine pulling heads for such a common repair
That does work. Getting that last spark plug on the passenger side is also easier if you pull the passenger front wheel and the wheel liner....
Fortunately LS engines are one of the easiest v-8 engines to pull heads off of… The pre-DOD LS was GM’s high water mark for v-8 engine design.
@@prevost8686Gen 3 LS engines are the best of the last of GM’s V8 engines. Just the right amount of HP and torque from the factory for towing and long term reliability. If I’m not mistaken they had already planned and designed DOD/AFM in early 2004, but didn’t start putting it in the Gen 4 LS until the GMT900 body design refresh in 2007.
I'm loving these styles of videos. They're real builds that we can all do at home. Please do an audio update video for this vehicle!!!
Dont feel bad Jared. I once saw one of my mentors years ago do this very job. He drilled a broken stud so deep, that he went through the head and into the cooling jacket. A nice green stream ensued. He dropped his tools and walked away.
Granted he was getting old. Couldnt see so well anymore.
Nothing is worse than accidentally going too deep!
24:03 that “ ESCALATED “ quickly 😅 I’ll see myself out 🏃♂️ 😅
Jared, instead of steel nuts on the exhaust studs, use bronze or brass nuts, that way if you need to go back in the future the nuts will spin off, it's an old vw trick
Once upon a time, in the UK, almost all cars had brass exhaust nuts. The best ones were really long nuts that covered the entire end of the stud... They never failed to come off!
@@realnutteruk1 yep, anytime I touch anything exhaust on my cars I get brass or bronze nuts/bolts to go back, I hate fighting rusty nuts
"I want to do it right". Bless you, Jared, that's why I love your channel. You're a man apart from the average. Thanks! Dave J
I appreciate that!
If you got to you can weld the shit out that broeken bolt without a nut on it then put a 1/2" nut over it andvweld it to get it out the aluminum casting will soak the heat out so fast you wont even phase the casting ive got bolts out that were broke off almost a half inch deep that way @@TheQuestionableGarage
Please take this the way it is intended: It is deeply gratifying to see someone with actual skills struggle in the way I often do as an unskilled guy. Thanks for all your great content! (and I'm not talking just about this vid :) )
It’s easy to edit and make it look like things never go wrong, but that isn’t real and I do my best to always be real.
@@TheQuestionableGarage It's one of the (many) reasons a lot of us like you ;)
I agree fully. Love this realistic content.
There are a few times when being 6'7" is a real bonus for working on mechanical issues... This was one of them. Jared didn't have to stand on a box to reach things in this truck's engine bay, that most of us "short fellers" would have to do. 👍
He's that tall? 🤔
@@dans_Learning_Curveyep
@@dans_Learning_Curve Man's a giant. See how tall he is relative to the roof.
@@tsp159 I'll have to pay more attention next time.
@@dans_Learning_CurveI’m 6’8 with boots on and I can confirm I can comfortably reach everything inside most engine bays without needing a stool. I can reach down and touch the bottom of the radiator in a Suburban all while standing on the ground in front of the grille.
I love this thing, I used to have an 02 Yukon XL and it makes me miss it a lot, wish I would have been able to get it titled in my name, instead of having it scrapped after someone ripped the engine out of it and dumped it
That truck suits you so well. 👍🏻 I always love the shameless puppy advertising!
We love your dogs 🐕
They are awesome most of the time, sometimes they are 120lb mid misiles running around the house!
Sorry if I'm behind the curve with this question, but have you had any good results on head bolts when using an anti seize at assembly? I enjoyed your video. New subscriber.
I have had really good luck using copper antiseaze for exhaust bolts on turbo cars, it doesn’t make it 100% but does help a lot!
Headlights need some love❤
What people don't fully realize aka the people that don't use jack stands for something quick is that it's not the jack that you're relying on holding the vehicle up. it's quite literally a couple of o-rings. It's not the type of gambling you want to mess with lol
Exactly, it isn’t a pleasant thing to have fall on you
We realize we just don't care.
I've seen people get killed even using Jake stands so what's your point.
@jerrywilcox9890 that's the problem, they should have used jack stands and not Jake stands!
I'll do brakes with just the wheel under the frame but that's about it. I much prefer to drive up on a block of wood and scoot under like that when possible
Love the dogs! Us normal wrenchers can relate to having dogs and such around
We got a saying at work: we dont do it because it’s easy, but because we thought it would be easy :)
LoL 🤣😆
Gotta remember that one!!
$500 for that vehicle is a true steal! If it runs good, I’d sink all kinds of money into it to make it a good daily driver. I’d replace or upgrade brakes, suspension and engine components. I’d even do a paint correction and touch up. You’re still saving tens of thousands vs. a good used Escalade.
Hell, fix the major mechanical issues and sell it for a healthy profit
How bout a 98 s10
Bought 06 Yukon for 300 from a friend and put a 2in front and 4in rear drop, 22s tinted front doors, turn it to a Denali exterior look, Escalade liftgate with 08 Yukon spoiler with 3rd brake light, all new front suspension, rear slotted and drilled rotors, did rear a/c block off, added blue interior LED lights, ordered the older halo led light kit, new lower rockers are bought not installed yet also new pioneer double din with steering wheel interface, planing on subs and 4 plus mono sub amp. Oh yeah Escalade Chrome roof racks installed. I will get 2012 Escalade Chrome running boards to make the truck look lower. My project I should video and put the progress on my RUclips channel
Haters are going to hate. Fans, let's gather here and show some love to this exceptional talent.
At 550 you bought it really well, you cant lose regardless of what happens.
There’s no challenge a determined Jared can’t solve! It’s always a pain in the ass when the 15 minute job takes 6 days, keep up the grind Jared!
Well there was that Nissan titan ....
Just went through this with a turbo bolt, and one thing to emphasize with the nut welding is it isnt so much that you're trying to get the nut on there (that is part of it) but that you're trying to shock the hell out of the remaining bolt with a large, quick blast of heat to unseize it. I welded a nut with my little welder and it attached the nut fine but didnt get enough heat into the bolt. Had someone bring a better welder, and basically welded until the nut melted slightly and it worked perfectly.
I really love watching your channel, I definitely learned something every time I watch,…. Are you considering getting new headlights for this Escalade, I know they can be cleaned and polished but usually they just turn foggy again, I think it would really freshen up the whole look of the truck and make it look so much better if you had a crystal clear set of new lenses to go with that shiny chrome grill…:-)
I know that feeling well. As someone who's owned, rebuilt, repaired, and rehab'd a number of Escalade's from 2000 all the way 2016 I can say these things are both amazing vehicles and can present their own little difficulties, almost all of them small repairs like brakes and so on.
and yes I'm dealing with my own 2015 ESV with classic 8L90 problems. Almost got that tuned out.
Also if you get the electric fans off a GMT900 you can directly drop that in and then wire it up with a universal electric fan wiring kit. keeps that water pump lasting much longer for anyone that hasn't done this before
Can we get a new years update on the state of various projects? Also, any interest in running the 24 hours of lemons in April of next year at Sebring? $500 car, could be a lot of fun. Cheap wheel to wheel racing, boatloads of content from it too.
Ive done lemons before with B is for Build and likely will run with him again! And I was thinking about a project update for January with a little progress on all of them.
In the category of "while you're in there", I hope you took care of the knock sensors under the intake manifold as well as the oil pressure sensor in the back of the block.
You definitely made some questionable decisions on this one. Why replace the heads unless even once they were off you couldn't get the remaining broken studs out? I am also confused about the choice to not do the timing cover gasket. I know you can get lost in "while I'm in there stuff," but in this case the amount of crap you would have to do to replace it if it does leak is substantial.
I had to use the weld a nut when i had an exhaust stud break on my Harley-Davidson Sportster. Third nut finally bit enough, and the stud came right out.
Also, you should put a Deadhead sticker on the back.... #iykyk