A pretty good review but there are a couple of things you missed that I would really like to know. For 1, I would have liked you to try using the box as a spool holder and let us know if the rolls actually stay on the roller wheels and don't fall off, get jammed, etc. Secondly I'd like to know if the last settings entered stay the same when the box is powered off and then back on as I would like to be able to have the box power on/off when my printer powers on/off and not have to constantly set it up each time (so the filament stays dry on a long print, especially when using nylon). Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. To answer your questions: 1. The spools do stay on the roller wheels and it works great feeding the filament directly from the dry box itself. I haven't experienced any jams, with the exception of 1 roll of filament that came improperly wound up from Amazon, however, once I rewound it properly, no issues at all. 2. It will save the settings even when you power off the unit using the power button, however, if you unplug the dry box, the settings will revert to default settings and you'll have to reset them to your preferred setting.
@@WhereNerdyisCoolI heard that one has the heater right below the filament rollers so it likes to melt the filament together. I've been trying to figure out which dryer to buy myself.
@@davidfarris1332The plate he shows is for use when drying only not using to feed the printer. You put that plate in if you are not feeding filament from the box, because otherwise the heat will blast directly onto the filament leading to exactly the problem you reference. See my comment a few minutes before this
Its a decent enough unit but doesnt go to 70 degrees, ignore the display readout, both temp and humidity are inaccurate, when it shows 70 degrees and 20% my stand alone gauge shows 57 degrees and less than 10% humidity, so it definitely gets the moisture down but doesnt hit its expected temperature.
That flicker is present on all the units. Must be something related to the controller. That would be nothing if the dryer will do what is suposed to. I have buy one for myself and test it. For PLA or TPU will be kind of OK, but no way would go to 70°C. On maximum 70°C set for temperature, after 3 hours, my BRYMEN 869 multimeter recorded a temperature inside the box, between 53 and 55 degree celsius. Of course i could not resist and disassembled the unit and as expected, they using a DHT11 sensor for temperature and humidity, controlled by a MCU (laser erased so cannot identify it). That sensor is rated for temperature range 0°C to 50°C. The PTC used is a 220V/100W, so should be good enough to heat up more. But will see in the future, maybe will DIY an STM32 controller with a better sensor so i can really dry some filaments.
In the top of the lid there are eight small vent holes. Also there are 10 grommet holes in the lid for feeding filament and only one or two would be used at a time. Hope this helps.
I would not recommend too much experimenting. In fact, the temperature control is not fantastic. For example I recently dried 2 rolls of PKA at 45 for 4 hours About 3 hours in I looked and it seemed to me the filament was beginning to "kink" a bit so I put a thermocouple in and found it was at 53. As you can imagine I stopped it immediately. The filament is ZoK but the spool rings (it's a cardboard spool with PLA printed rings around it so it works in a Bambu AMS) were warped and no longer worked in the AMS. I have heard of people having completely fused together rolls by having the temp too high So, to get to the point (sorry!) I would set the temperature at least 12 degrees below the vitrification point of the filament, to allow for variance, and if you use spool rings on cardboard spools, take them off or print them with a high temp filament For PLA I would use 40 to 43 Celsius and extend for an hour past the recommended time; for OETG I woul choose no higher than 63 and again "cook" for as n hour or two extra. Talking of cooking, microwave is a BAD analogy - no microwaves are involved cooking from the inside - it's more like a low temperature fan oven with poor thermostatic control. The OTC is ok to stop thermal runaway and reduce fire hazard but the thermostatic control needs improvement on this dryer. Note this is a clone, I believe, of the Eibos Cyclopes
A pretty good review but there are a couple of things you missed that I would really like to know. For 1, I would have liked you to try using the box as a spool holder and let us know if the rolls actually stay on the roller wheels and don't fall off, get jammed, etc.
Secondly I'd like to know if the last settings entered stay the same when the box is powered off and then back on as I would like to be able to have the box power on/off when my printer powers on/off and not have to constantly set it up each time (so the filament stays dry on a long print, especially when using nylon).
Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. To answer your questions:
1. The spools do stay on the roller wheels and it works great feeding the filament directly from the dry box itself. I haven't experienced any jams, with the exception of 1 roll of filament that came improperly wound up from Amazon, however, once I rewound it properly, no issues at all.
2. It will save the settings even when you power off the unit using the power button, however, if you unplug the dry box, the settings will revert to default settings and you'll have to reset them to your preferred setting.
In the manual, it states it does not have a temp sensor. It relies on an "algorithm" So probably better choices out there. (I have one as well)
There must be 🙂 Can you recommend any?
@@rickstard73 EIBOS Cyclopes is good
@@WhereNerdyisCoolI heard that one has the heater right below the filament rollers so it likes to melt the filament together. I've been trying to figure out which dryer to buy myself.
@@WhereNerdyisCoolI believe this is a clone of the Eibos
@@davidfarris1332The plate he shows is for use when drying only not using to feed the printer. You put that plate in if you are not feeding filament from the box, because otherwise the heat will blast directly onto the filament leading to exactly the problem you reference. See my comment a few minutes before this
I want this, but I also want to wait for s4 lol...
Its a decent enough unit but doesnt go to 70 degrees, ignore the display readout, both temp and humidity are inaccurate, when it shows 70 degrees and 20% my stand alone gauge shows 57 degrees and less than 10% humidity, so it definitely gets the moisture down but doesnt hit its expected temperature.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to get a separate gauge to validate the accuracy.
i have this, def improved my printing experience...
It's great for storing and feeding filaments as well if you don't have an AMS
using white wasnt the best choice hard to see on screen . cant see details
Thanks for the video, ask, Is the constant flashing of the indicators on the screen normal? Is the temperature uniform throughout the room?
That flicker is present on all the units. Must be something related to the controller.
That would be nothing if the dryer will do what is suposed to. I have buy one for myself and test it. For PLA or TPU will be kind of OK, but no way would go to 70°C.
On maximum 70°C set for temperature, after 3 hours, my BRYMEN 869 multimeter recorded a temperature inside the box, between 53 and 55 degree celsius.
Of course i could not resist and disassembled the unit and as expected, they using a DHT11 sensor for temperature and humidity, controlled by a MCU (laser erased so cannot identify it). That sensor is rated for temperature range 0°C to 50°C. The PTC used is a 220V/100W, so should be good enough to heat up more.
But will see in the future, maybe will DIY an STM32 controller with a better sensor so i can really dry some filaments.
Where does the moisture go? Its a sealed box.
In the top of the lid there are eight small vent holes. Also there are 10 grommet holes in the lid for feeding filament and only one or two would be used at a time. Hope this helps.
I would not recommend too much experimenting. In fact, the temperature control is not fantastic. For example I recently dried 2 rolls of PKA at 45 for 4 hours
About 3 hours in I looked and it seemed to me the filament was beginning to "kink" a bit so I put a thermocouple in and found it was at 53. As you can imagine I stopped it immediately.
The filament is ZoK but the spool rings (it's a cardboard spool with PLA printed rings around it so it works in a Bambu AMS) were warped and no longer worked in the AMS.
I have heard of people having completely fused together rolls by having the temp too high
So, to get to the point (sorry!) I would set the temperature at least 12 degrees below the vitrification point of the filament, to allow for variance, and if you use spool rings on cardboard spools, take them off or print them with a high temp filament
For PLA I would use 40 to 43 Celsius and extend for an hour past the recommended time; for OETG I woul choose no higher than 63 and again "cook" for as n hour or two extra.
Talking of cooking, microwave is a BAD analogy - no microwaves are involved cooking from the inside - it's more like a low temperature fan oven with poor thermostatic control.
The OTC is ok to stop thermal runaway and reduce fire hazard but the thermostatic control needs improvement on this dryer. Note this is a clone, I believe, of the Eibos Cyclopes
❤❤❤❤