Timing Belt Replacement How To - Toyota 4Runner 3.0 3VZE - Part 3 Q&A Follow-Up
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- I've had a lot of comments and messages about this repair since uploading the original timing belt video. The purpose of this video is to answer most of those questions, and clear up some confusion that people might have when doing this repair.
Tools & Parts:
Timing Belt Kit amzn.to/2kySfQj
Permatex RTV Sealant amzn.to/2NcHc2k
Universal Coolant amzn.to/2NjU46K
Harmonic Balancer Puller amzn.to/2Rup2Ym
Dewalt 20V Electric Impact (So sweet) amzn.to/2Y9L6dv
30 Inch breaker bar amzn.to/2Y6qEu4
Pry Bar Set amzn.to/2YcUXPM
Original Videos:
Timing Belt Replacement Part 1 • Timing Belt Replacemen...
Timing Belt Replacement Part 2 • Timing Belt Replacemen...
Condensed 1 Part Version • Toyota 3.0 3VZE Timing...
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Man great job on the videos…appreciate you going into detail.
Love your ramble. Full of detail and background info.
Thanks for putting my mind at ease regarding the timing belt. I just bought a 94 4runner and I was worried it might have an interference engine. I plan on replacing BOTH the timing belt and water pump; and that info regarding the tensioner was helpful.
I went with Gates water Pump & timing belt kit and the belt is marked for Right & Left Cams and also has a Mark for the bottom also went with Fel-Pro Head gasket set w Fel-Pro Head Bolts both kits were very nice Quality and well worth the money. Also if you do the head gaskets always wrap the rear crossover pipe with heat wrap. Some sat to get rid of the crossover pipe but it's not necessary because the new headgaskets are designed much better then stock. Great Video
Good info and helps to visualize everything. I did mine a couple of years ago and then yesterday my fan pulley seized on my way home and smoked all three auxiliary belts. Had to cut them off on side of the road and make it home without Alt/PS/AC. No biggie, but now I get to do the first part of this work all over again. I really wish Toyota had made the bearing on that pulley replaceable without having to pull the timing cover to get the bracket out of there. So make sure that fan pulley bearing is in tip top shape before you button everything up. Your looks fairly new, so you probably have a similar story :)
Dude you are awesome thank you for your help
Great video answered my questions
Just another positive comment. Thanks for your mini series on this timing belt change. Chilton says it's an interference motor bigger than life so I just about threw up after I read that even though I was pretty sure it was a non-interference motor. After your video and a few Google searches I am relieved to find out it's non-interference. Would have been too late for me and would have bent a valve or two.
Thank you for sharing.
It would of been nice if you showed us how to set up the distributor to the #1 piston to time it correctly. How to drop it in the right way as if you done a rebuilt and need to install the distributor as in my case.
Good video. Thanks
good video brother thank you
Thank you good job
Quick easy and to the point - nice vid. So for those of us replacing an after market belt with another aftermarket belt it is important to make lines on the old belt when the timing marke are set up.
Now if you have a broken belt - this become a bit of a problem. Any chance you could count the teeth on a belt that still has the markings and post?
If that is not available I have a cunning plan (Black Adder - "Over the Top") for not using the the marks.
1. Align marks left and right cam.
2. Align mark bottom of crank.
3. Verify TDC cylinder 1 via spark plug hole - of not TDC turn until it aligns again and has TDC in cylinder 1.
3. Recognize that the tension is maximum and no slack in the belt between left and right cam.
4. Place belt on left and right cam as tight as possible.
5. Zip tie in place
6. Recognize driver side belt path has no slack
7. Keeping marks in place, place belt with zero slack on drivers side - remaining slack on passenger side.
8. In the early model like mine attach spring.
9. Adjust for no slack on belt path passenger side .
10. Tighten tensioner pully bolt.
So if we find ourselves without marks will this address the issue?
You have been through a "few" of these ;)
Does this make sense?
Thanks!
That's the reason you turn over the crank 2 rotations afterwards. If everything is still in line after 2 full rotations, you're good to go. If not, analyze the situation and make corrections as needed. Oh yeah! Of course, your water pump failed right after. Isn't that how it always goes? Just by the kit and do it all. Right? Also, you mentioned there is basically no difference between installation of the hydraulic tensioner and the spring tensioner... The spring tensioner need to be installed before putting the fan bracket (you said fluid coupler) back on, as to where you install the hydraulic tensioner after putting the fan bracket (fluid coupler) back on. Just thought I'd add that. Piece of cake...
Merci beaucoup
Thank you . Push rod engine its necessary?
Great video. I'm doing a 1993 T100 with the same engine so this video is awesome. Before taking things apart to do this job, i noticed that my right cam pulley and bottom pulley had existing marks which lined up. But the top left cam pulley existing marks were not lined up. Marks were about 2cms apart. So i made new mark so i could reline up my own parks on that pulley. Now i've not put it all back together yet but just wondered if lining up my own marks is the correct approach as engine did run well prior to job. That's what i'm going to do , it just means that left cam pulley will not have the exiting mark pointing straight up to original marks. is this correct?
and that's assuming the pulley allows me to put it in that position with out springing back.
i dont have an FSM in front of me at the moment...but i see on your engine the cam gears are not both installed the same way...my engine also has them like that, but flip flopped from the way yours is. does it matter which way they go? is it just peace of mind that the lip around the edge be on the back of one and the front of the other in case the belt migrates?
I've just done my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc.
My "marks" aren't exactly 90°
Close but, not exact.
It doesn't wanna crank.
Any tips ? MUST marks be 90° , it's all I can think of.
On my Chevy I always had to find number one #one top dead center. That's a pushrod engine. I never here anyone doing that on the timing belt RR on my 95 3.0 VZE IS that because it's over DOHC? like my 4runner please let me know.
Also remember there are 2 different designed water pumps 1 has an outlet and was does not.
concerning the breaker bar method, there migh t be some argument about letting the bar swing freely vs holding it snugly against the bottom of the frame before tapping the starter. no problem and less chance of the socket slipping off. also , emphasis is on the tap of the starter. its shock we need-impact. not a grind or extended spin.
my crankshaft is only three teeth away from being lined up. whenever i move it over i’ll get it to where is supposed to be, but it springs back to where is was
Got a 95 4runner thinking of becoming the new owner 150kmiles and is disassembled for painting automatic transmission and has been sitting 2to3 month's full of snow I live in a campground and have only outside to work on the project if I buy it for 500$us needs everything
A piece of cardboard will help protect the radiator cooling fins if you choose to leave the radiator installed.
Saved my ass cause I had a timing belt done and water pump and come to find out they take the pump off to put a new belt. Tried charging me 300 for water pump install......on top of timing belt and other things