Thanks Chris, we were aiming to get a good range of grades. Seems like there’s loads out there about the harder stuff already, but a lot less about the easier stuff - despite that being what the majority of people climb!
Recently started bouldering outdoors after years of indoor-only and I'm discovering it's a completely different sport. Finding the boulder, figuring out the line, and actually climbing it all feels different, and half of the time you don't know whether you're doing the right problem. I'm also realising how much I really on friction indoors and I really need to work more on finger strength for outdoor climbing in my area, everything is so flat and smooth or crimpy-ish features with no friction. I appreciate you mentioning that the grades don't really matter, because we found the grading to be all over the place around here. Some easy stuff feels so easy we don't believe we did the problem and other stuff that's lower grades feels impossible somehow.
This was such a great climbing video - please make more content exactly like this. Loved the climbers, super interesting location and loved the accessibility of the grades shown. Thank you UKC!
It's Peak Bouldering by Rockfax. Unfortunately it's out of print at the moment, but there's a new edition coming out later this year. In the meanwhile you can access all the latest information via Rockfax Digital.
Also, thanks so much for the feedback. We've wanted to make a series like this for so long, as it felt like most of the climbing videos that are out there focus almost exclusively on the 7 and 8s, which isn't representative of what most people can climb. We've got three more coming in this series, then hopefully more to follow. As you can probably tell, we had a LOT of fun filming this one 🤣
Some other f3 to f6c+ classics Cratcliffe: The Squirm (weird groove) Foot Tickler, Through Mantel, Last Arete, and Lip Slap Pink Slab Right (No Arête) The Bishop and the mega sandbagged Hermit's Cave Traverse RHS: Arch Direct (more weirdness,) Elderberry Layback (underneath the Dry Wit ledge) Short Arete and Sweet Arete Boss Hog and Boss Start (probably the best low f6 highball in the area? big commitment, airy, safe fall, 3 stars imo) Bossa Nova Angle Arete The Nose
There’s so many good problems there it was hard to narrow down which ones to feature and which ones to leave out. Completely agree with you about Boss Hogg - it’s such a good problem!!
@@smashbadger2460 This exchange has reminded me that I've got to write up + film a review of them sometime 🤦 Suspect it'll be a month or so before I get around to doing this, but watch this space - it's coming soon (promise)!!
That's egg arete left, 5+ you wanna be on the right hand side for the 6b, (and of course the highly coveted sit start 'chancellor of the eggs checker'). I thought it was widely accepted that look right sit being a 6c was an accident, its 6a.
If you go back through the various guides it’s actually quite unclear what ‘Egg Arête’ actually is. In the Rockfax Guide it is indeed to the right, but Egg Arête Left goes further left, into the scoop feature. As such, the problem we climbed technically doesn’t exist. (which it clearly does). If you look at the Vertebrate Guide it says to go up the blunt rib, which is pretty representative of what we did, and gets 6A+ (although everyone agreed was always a bit of a sandbag). We’ll be updating the lines, and the grade of Look Right in the next guide too, although we thought that was closer to 6B - as do the majority of voters on the UKC logbooks.
I’d support having Egg Arete Left, Egg Arete (head on or severe leftwards slinking from the right), and Egg Arete Right (strictly staying right) so the pure line is the non-eliminate version. I’ve always considered head on as the left version climbed a hard way. I guess the look right sit start difficulty depends on a combination of height/limb length/hip flexibility and its hard to imagine how hard/easy it might feel for someone else.
It’s Peak Bouldering, by Rockfax. Unfortunately it’s out of print currently, but there’s a new edition coming out later this year. In the meanwhile you can access all the latest info on Rockfax Digital.
There’s nothing in the guide to say otherwise. Of the people that have commented within the UKC logbooks some have eliminated the chip in order to provide a more pure problem, but I can’t recall this ever being a rule like it is on T Crack.
@@herbiejohnson I've always found it strange to get into the mindset of anyone who's willing to chip a hold in order to get a problem done, because it doesn't make that much sense, as - in the process of chipping the problem - you haven't done the challenge of the problem you originally set out to do (although this does contradict what I previously said, but perhaps it depends when the chip was chipped).
Nice to see some lower grade footage. Great film, thanks 🙏
There’s a few more coming within the series, so watch this space…
A rare ego-free, friendly climbing video! Would love to see you guys do similar in other peak venues, please!
Thanks, Lewis - that's great to hear. There's definitely more on the cards in the Peak but we're over to North Wales next...
Really enjoyed this!! Easy problems along with some harder stuff 👌 excellent!
Thanks Chris, we were aiming to get a good range of grades. Seems like there’s loads out there about the harder stuff already, but a lot less about the easier stuff - despite that being what the majority of people climb!
Recently started bouldering outdoors after years of indoor-only and I'm discovering it's a completely different sport. Finding the boulder, figuring out the line, and actually climbing it all feels different, and half of the time you don't know whether you're doing the right problem. I'm also realising how much I really on friction indoors and I really need to work more on finger strength for outdoor climbing in my area, everything is so flat and smooth or crimpy-ish features with no friction.
I appreciate you mentioning that the grades don't really matter, because we found the grading to be all over the place around here. Some easy stuff feels so easy we don't believe we did the problem and other stuff that's lower grades feels impossible somehow.
It sounds like we made this series with you in mind. You're right about grades too. The more I climb, the less they make sense sometimes!!
Let us know if you've had a chance to head to RHS or Cratcliffe and what your favourite Peak District areas are!
I want to go RHS as I have a young climber with me. We went to the Roaches and had an absolute blast. 😊
This was such a great climbing video - please make more content exactly like this. Loved the climbers, super interesting location and loved the accessibility of the grades shown. Thank you UKC!
a quick question ... what was the guide book that Rob had in his hand at 1:11?
It's Peak Bouldering by Rockfax. Unfortunately it's out of print at the moment, but there's a new edition coming out later this year. In the meanwhile you can access all the latest information via Rockfax Digital.
Also, thanks so much for the feedback. We've wanted to make a series like this for so long, as it felt like most of the climbing videos that are out there focus almost exclusively on the 7 and 8s, which isn't representative of what most people can climb. We've got three more coming in this series, then hopefully more to follow. As you can probably tell, we had a LOT of fun filming this one 🤣
Some other f3 to f6c+ classics
Cratcliffe:
The Squirm (weird groove)
Foot Tickler, Through Mantel, Last Arete, and Lip Slap
Pink Slab Right (No Arête)
The Bishop and the mega sandbagged Hermit's Cave Traverse
RHS:
Arch Direct (more weirdness,)
Elderberry Layback (underneath the Dry Wit ledge)
Short Arete and Sweet Arete
Boss Hog and Boss Start (probably the best low f6 highball in the area? big commitment, airy, safe fall, 3 stars imo)
Bossa Nova
Angle Arete
The Nose
There’s so many good problems there it was hard to narrow down which ones to feature and which ones to leave out. Completely agree with you about Boss Hogg - it’s such a good problem!!
Ive watched 1 minute, already like ot ❤🔥
Thanks for the feedback. We’ve put a lot of time and effort into this one, so had hoped it would be well received, but you never know until it’s out 🙏
Egg Arête can get in the bin, until I’ve done it anyway, a delightful amount of TNF swag in the video. Also. What brand are those pads you’re using 😜😙
Xa thought the same… The pads are from Flashed: www.flashed.com/shop/crash-pads/
@@ukclimbingofficial Flashy 😁
@@smashbadger2460 This exchange has reminded me that I've got to write up + film a review of them sometime 🤦
Suspect it'll be a month or so before I get around to doing this, but watch this space - it's coming soon (promise)!!
That's egg arete left, 5+ you wanna be on the right hand side for the 6b, (and of course the highly coveted sit start 'chancellor of the eggs checker'). I thought it was widely accepted that look right sit being a 6c was an accident, its 6a.
If you go back through the various guides it’s actually quite unclear what ‘Egg Arête’ actually is. In the Rockfax Guide it is indeed to the right, but Egg Arête Left goes further left, into the scoop feature. As such, the problem we climbed technically doesn’t exist. (which it clearly does). If you look at the Vertebrate Guide it says to go up the blunt rib, which is pretty representative of what we did, and gets 6A+ (although everyone agreed was always a bit of a sandbag). We’ll be updating the lines, and the grade of Look Right in the next guide too, although we thought that was closer to 6B - as do the majority of voters on the UKC logbooks.
I’d support having Egg Arete Left, Egg Arete (head on or severe leftwards slinking from the right), and Egg Arete Right (strictly staying right) so the pure line is the non-eliminate version. I’ve always considered head on as the left version climbed a hard way. I guess the look right sit start difficulty depends on a combination of height/limb length/hip flexibility and its hard to imagine how hard/easy it might feel for someone else.
What book is that at 1:20 ?
It’s Peak Bouldering, by Rockfax. Unfortunately it’s out of print currently, but there’s a new edition coming out later this year. In the meanwhile you can access all the latest info on Rockfax Digital.
@@ukclimbingofficial Thanks! I'll be sure to keep an eye out
"Scooch" is a word just watch Rab C Nesbit 😂
It’s been years since I watched any Rabsie but I’m now worried that if I do re-watch it might regret having ever used the word 🤣
I dont think the chips in on the cave problem similar to t crack
There’s nothing in the guide to say otherwise. Of the people that have commented within the UKC logbooks some have eliminated the chip in order to provide a more pure problem, but I can’t recall this ever being a rule like it is on T Crack.
@@ukclimbingofficial Oh, I didn't realize it didn't say that in the guide. I wonder how it got there in the first place.
@@herbiejohnson I've always found it strange to get into the mindset of anyone who's willing to chip a hold in order to get a problem done, because it doesn't make that much sense, as - in the process of chipping the problem - you haven't done the challenge of the problem you originally set out to do (although this does contradict what I previously said, but perhaps it depends when the chip was chipped).