I totally agree, sometimes I feel like there are vortexes around certain problems for me. Like the laws of physics are different for me only in that spot, which is ludicrous, the problem is me and my mental state! Thanks for sharing this, I needed to see it too.
5:35 and 7:01 are VERY IMPORTANT! Please take care of the rock, clean your shoes and brush the holds. I've seen so many people with shoes covered in dirt and even caked with mud get on the wall, not only does that hurt your own climbing but it makes the rock slick and very polished. If you go climbing outside and see that some holds just feel like porcelain it's because people stepped on them with dirty shoes and didn't brush it. Also, just brush your holds in general. Not brushing them after climbing on them also makes them very greasy and polished over time. Brush them in between tries and after you're done climbing. It will help your performance and will extend the lifespan of the holds. Please be considerate of others, don't trash the rock we all love climbing on.
Yes, love The Sheep bit. Funnily, I had a very similar experience at Burbage North on this 6b only last Thursday. I've done a bunch of 6bs, flashed a couple of 6cs and even managed a 7a so far so I thought, well it's only a 6b. And here I'm sitting with a shoulder injury, incredulous and more humbled than ever. Makes you realise that just because you've done a higher grade it doesn't mean you can do all the problems in the lower grades. Gotta live with it and move on. :)
Well this series is seriously timely. Just starting to really seriously boulder outside and have kind of been doing a bit of fumbling about and struggling to top things (specifically topping out) so I appreciate the help team! Maybe a solo Boulder guide would be nice with the Covid lock downs coming again.
Another tip: When falling/bailing, look down and pick a spot to land. Fell off a decently tall boulder about a week ago and didn't pay attention to the landing. My left foot landed in between two pads and I'm currently nursing a pretty bad ankle sprain from it. Lesson learned.
such a great video. After two years of indoorbouldering I began bouldering outdoor and I got shut down on very low grade problems but still enjoy it a lot. So good to know that also very strong climbers like you can get shut down by boulders that would be normally an relatively easy grade. Your comments really helped me appreciate my time outdoors even more! Thanks a lot!
The Sheeeeeep 😂 I hate it. Bad memories. Last summer, I spent hours there and lost most my skin, but then managed to tick Electrical Storm in half an hour haha. Jim Pope walked past while I tried Electrical Storm so I believe I must've absorbed some of his strength through the air waves.
ahh man LONG time since I've been to that boulder you warmed up on. can't remember its name but the slabby problem just to left of the arete you started on... I remember being mildly scared on one of my first outdoor trips sending it haha! EDIT: Also holy moly some of those holds have grown :O
Every time I try Pock Man I bail out. It’s not even that high or scary (and it’s really easy for the grade), but I’m just habituated to being scared on it and now it’s become a mental block for me.
Thanks for the video. Being about the same height, I find starting with the thumb in the right pocket really helps (No I haven't done it, but I consistently get to the slopey match).
Really well explained Tom. Really glad you explained how important it is to take care of the rock. What rock shoes are you wearing in this video? They look comfy
9:06 don't forget to remove straps from your pads, I've gotten caught few times with them. There is sickle crack 6C next to the sheep (lhs), which is also insane :D, my nemesis is triangle wall 7A
There’s a video of you on UKC successfully climbing the sheep and the difference between success and failure on the first move is pretty clear. When you succeed, you stand up vertically on the right foot with strongly bent left arm and reach up easily to the hold you’re trying to slap, basically leaning into the left foot. Your centre of gravity is directly over your right foot. When you pop off, you’re halfway to trying to layback the crack, keeping your centre of gravity to the right of your right foot, keeping the left arm more extended. But then your left foot placement just pushes you off because it’s just half-way to a layback, not really committed. There’s another RUclips video out there of someone full-on laybacking the crack - he puts his right foot where you’re trying to put your left and has a hard flag left with his left leg.
I have completed a v3 and working on a v4 I just can’t get (slopers). But v12 you said! Wow! I only started climbing in may but can never see myself getting even to v6. The holds are so tough! Haha
Great info. Regarding the Pad (wrong side up) and strap topic: simple fix would be switch the inner padding so the top side is NOT the one with the straps?
Fantastic, really great film thanks. Be awesome if you could do something about getting kids into bouldering, mine are getting to an age they fancy a go but any tips would be much appreciated. Short sessions , plenty of treats and safety are always good starters 👍😀
I think you might consider ‘Heat pads’? I bought lots of them last year for cycling through the winter months. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and stay hot forever. At least 8 to 10 hours. I’ve bought small ones, which I’ve tucked inside my gloves. I’ve put them into chest pockets. Into rear pockets have kept my lower back and kidneys warm. I’ve taped them to my thighs and calves. There is no end of uses for them. I can imagine so many uses for a climber. Approaching and leaving the crags. In your pockets so you can slip your hands into them. What about in a chalk bag? The possibilities are up to you? Together with hot drinks? I don;t know a climber who doesn’t have a Jetboil? Living here in U.K. (Wales) we just must not allow our winter weather to keep us away from our sports, we have to do whatever us necessary. Thanks for this vid. I did enjoy it.
Great to see you talking about crag upkeep and brushing off your old tickmarks. As much as I need all the help there is when reading a route I don't want to see where you have marked an impossible crimp and blown my flash attempt (no its not because i'm a generally shit climber).
I have been bouldering indoors for about 4 months or so and keen to go outdoors - do you need to be a certain level or strength to get the most out of bouldering outdoors? I know you dont 'need' to be a certain level - but wondering if people reckon it is worth waiting until more experienced or just go for it!
Just go for it Luke. Taking someone that climbs outside already can be a good introduction though. You don't need to be a certain strength but this can be a factor depending on the location. For example, some climbing areas don't offer much in the way of easy routes/boulders. Do a bit of research and look for an area described as family friendly or offering a good spread of grades.
Not exactly on topic but does it matter how you hang weight when hangboarding? I've just got a backpack filled with water bottles... A cost saving measure
Your friends that did that v5 boulder problem without a problem, are they significantly shorter or with a quite different body morphology? Some 'easy' routes and boulders are just easy if you are of a certain height and can fit within certain holds without having to awkwardly twist to do so
Harder, hahha. The worst thing was that on the day the V5 got done, it turned out the footage showed a French start on the V5 so it got called out on social media hahaha
the shoes dont sweat. If you don´t walk around in the climbing shoes they won´t get wet, so no chalk required to dry them ... I use chalk on footholds as tickmarks thow, cause otherwise I struggle finding them during hard moves
@@matthiaskinateder3725 what about in crazy humid weather? It's also rainy season in the tropics...even on the dry days, the crag.ia a bit moist from the slow drip. Climbing on unpressurized granite (dynamite blasted quarry...
@@TheActiveLifeLived True. if the rock itself is wet you gotta dry it. I´m used to sandstone, that is kind of harder to dry, and it is said that it breaks easier when its wet, so I dont realy go out when it´s wet anyway :D
First off, you have a mean stanky leg on those ankle warmups... Also, when it's a real cold day it actually helps to stick your hands right down your pants. Warms them up right away lol.
At 4:36 standing on your pads in your walking shoes!!! Big no no in my book, gets mud all over the pads which can then easily end up on your boots, and then the rock. Keep them clean!
I think in the outbreak of the second world war the army used it as a firing range and most of the pock marks are impacts from bullets, they will of course be more worn now because of people climbing on them, but the problems wouldn't be there (or would be very different) in the first place if it wasn't for them being there.
@@seblopez149 that's interesting stuff! I know a lot of the climbing in the UK seems to be in quarried areas. Does anyone have a history of crag/spot development there? I'd love to know more.
Yeah, warm up legs before trying super hard mantels... I always skip the legs part and pay for it dearly. Guys do a video " how to love workouts for your chicken-legs".
So refreshing to see you on the sheep. Makes you realise everyone's human... Thanks for including that
Tom's a Turbo Punter.
I loved that moment. Sometimes our friends cruise something we just can't DO.
It's morpho for the short... I'm convinced... I swear... but no-one believes me...
@@NathanBetts That would make sense. He complained about having his arms awkwardly bent in a somewhat compressing setup.
I totally agree, sometimes I feel like there are vortexes around certain problems for me. Like the laws of physics are different for me only in that spot, which is ludicrous, the problem is me and my mental state! Thanks for sharing this, I needed to see it too.
Thank you for telling people to brush and clean the holds before climbing!! 🙏🏼
Of course 😊
@@LatticeTraining And after....
5:35 and 7:01 are VERY IMPORTANT! Please take care of the rock, clean your shoes and brush the holds. I've seen so many people with shoes covered in dirt and even caked with mud get on the wall, not only does that hurt your own climbing but it makes the rock slick and very polished. If you go climbing outside and see that some holds just feel like porcelain it's because people stepped on them with dirty shoes and didn't brush it. Also, just brush your holds in general. Not brushing them after climbing on them also makes them very greasy and polished over time. Brush them in between tries and after you're done climbing. It will help your performance and will extend the lifespan of the holds. Please be considerate of others, don't trash the rock we all love climbing on.
Spitting on the shoe! Best tip for boosting your confidence on slabs I've ever heard! I'm gonna start doing this (no joke). Thanks Lattice!
Really REALLY helps
Yes, love The Sheep bit. Funnily, I had a very similar experience at Burbage North on this 6b only last Thursday. I've done a bunch of 6bs, flashed a couple of 6cs and even managed a 7a so far so I thought, well it's only a 6b. And here I'm sitting with a shoulder injury, incredulous and more humbled than ever. Makes you realise that just because you've done a higher grade it doesn't mean you can do all the problems in the lower grades. Gotta live with it and move on. :)
Thanks for sharing the ins and outs of your session. As a new climber I found this video super resourceful :)
Well this series is seriously timely. Just starting to really seriously boulder outside and have kind of been doing a bit of fumbling about and struggling to top things (specifically topping out) so I appreciate the help team! Maybe a solo Boulder guide would be nice with the Covid lock downs coming again.
Ah well we're very pleased it'll help in some way :-)
It's so much more helpful to see someone who you know is much better than you also failing!
Another tip: When falling/bailing, look down and pick a spot to land. Fell off a decently tall boulder about a week ago and didn't pay attention to the landing. My left foot landed in between two pads and I'm currently nursing a pretty bad ankle sprain from it. Lesson learned.
ive had the same thing happen to me except i also didnt have a spotter
Cheers mate this was really helpful, only been bouldering for a year & want to head outside for the first time soon so will definitely watch again
Fantastic technical video, great skill, wonderful spirit - imho.
Thank you very much for sharing this!
Lattice is killing it with these videos! So much amazing content.
Love Tom with his wholesome tips.
Couldn’t love this video more. Thanks Tom!!
This was really useful, impressive to cover basic things without being patronising at all 👍
That was super helpful. I haven't tried bouldering outside yet so this video was perfect for me!
such a great video. After two years of indoorbouldering I began bouldering outdoor and I got shut down on very low grade problems but still enjoy it a lot.
So good to know that also very strong climbers like you can get shut down by boulders that would be normally an relatively easy grade. Your comments really helped me appreciate my time outdoors even more!
Thanks a lot!
Great beginner tips guys! You guys literally covered it all. Going with someone that's experienced in outdoor bouldering is my top tip.
Hi Tom, I’m the same height as you, it makes a huge difference putting your left foot up before your right, that’s how I did it! Worth a nudge👍🏻
this is an awesome tutorial I wished I knew before bouldering outdoors. Thanks for the video!
Such an excellent video. Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant Tom. I felt all that pain with you on 'The Sheep' problem.
Really hate to be a fashion diva but the puffer Tom’s wearing in the opening is super cool
The Sheeeeeep 😂 I hate it. Bad memories. Last summer, I spent hours there and lost most my skin, but then managed to tick Electrical Storm in half an hour haha. Jim Pope walked past while I tried Electrical Storm so I believe I must've absorbed some of his strength through the air waves.
Ha good story!
I'm so pleased u found the sheep so hard! I was there a few months ago and could barely get on the wall too!
Ditto 😅😅
ahh man LONG time since I've been to that boulder you warmed up on. can't remember its name but the slabby problem just to left of the arete you started on... I remember being mildly scared on one of my first outdoor trips sending it haha!
EDIT: Also holy moly some of those holds have grown :O
The problem to the left is called Pock-man. Climbed it not long ago on my second trip outside, scared me too!
Every time I try Pock Man I bail out. It’s not even that high or scary (and it’s really easy for the grade), but I’m just habituated to being scared on it and now it’s become a mental block for me.
Thanks for the video. Being about the same height, I find starting with the thumb in the right pocket really helps (No I haven't done it, but I consistently get to the slopey match).
Ah thanks! Will try again :-D
Really well explained Tom. Really glad you explained how important it is to take care of the rock.
What rock shoes are you wearing in this video? They look comfy
9:06 don't forget to remove straps from your pads, I've gotten caught few times with them. There is sickle crack 6C next to the sheep (lhs), which is also insane :D, my nemesis is triangle wall 7A
You OPENNED THW NEW PAD!!
A very focused viedeo. Great too see. Camera looks unreal too
Tom: Has climbed on this boulder for 20 years
also Tom: Barely remembers any beta
There’s a video of you on UKC successfully climbing the sheep and the difference between success and failure on the first move is pretty clear. When you succeed, you stand up vertically on the right foot with strongly bent left arm and reach up easily to the hold you’re trying to slap, basically leaning into the left foot. Your centre of gravity is directly over your right foot. When you pop off, you’re halfway to trying to layback the crack, keeping your centre of gravity to the right of your right foot, keeping the left arm more extended. But then your left foot placement just pushes you off because it’s just half-way to a layback, not really committed. There’s another RUclips video out there of someone full-on laybacking the crack - he puts his right foot where you’re trying to put your left and has a hard flag left with his left leg.
I have completed a v3 and working on a v4 I just can’t get (slopers).
But v12 you said! Wow!
I only started climbing in may but can never see myself getting even to v6. The holds are so tough! Haha
Great info. Regarding the Pad (wrong side up) and strap topic: simple fix would be switch the inner padding so the top side is NOT the one with the straps?
Fantastic, really great film thanks. Be awesome if you could do something about getting kids into bouldering, mine are getting to an age they fancy a go but any tips would be much appreciated. Short sessions , plenty of treats and safety are always good starters 👍😀
Loved this.... should of used a chicken wing move on the sheep ;)
If only!
I think you might consider ‘Heat pads’? I bought lots of them last year for cycling through the winter months. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and stay hot forever. At least 8 to 10 hours. I’ve bought small ones, which I’ve tucked inside my gloves. I’ve put them into chest pockets. Into rear pockets have kept my lower back and kidneys warm. I’ve taped them to my thighs and calves. There is no end of uses for them. I can imagine so many uses for a climber. Approaching and leaving the crags. In your pockets so you can slip your hands into them. What about in a chalk bag? The possibilities are up to you? Together with hot drinks? I don;t know a climber who doesn’t have a Jetboil? Living here in U.K. (Wales) we just must not allow our winter weather to keep us away from our sports, we have to do whatever us necessary. Thanks for this vid. I did enjoy it.
Great to see you talking about crag upkeep and brushing off your old tickmarks.
As much as I need all the help there is when reading a route I don't want to see where you have marked an impossible crimp and blown my flash attempt (no its not because i'm a generally shit climber).
Honestly Tom is the Mr. Rogers of climbing.
Hmmmmm.... that's probably not a good thing for Tom is it? haha!
It is! Makes learning fun and engaging across all skill levels.
Makes me want to go back. Not been there for 15? Years
Cheers Tom
Come to pennsylvania for some great gritstone climbing!!!
Pennsylvania gritstone! Wow!
I have been bouldering indoors for about 4 months or so and keen to go outdoors - do you need to be a certain level or strength to get the most out of bouldering outdoors? I know you dont 'need' to be a certain level - but wondering if people reckon it is worth waiting until more experienced or just go for it!
Just go for it Luke. Taking someone that climbs outside already can be a good introduction though. You don't need to be a certain strength but this can be a factor depending on the location. For example, some climbing areas don't offer much in the way of easy routes/boulders. Do a bit of research and look for an area described as family friendly or offering a good spread of grades.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks! Currently in lockdown - so my mind is floating off to bigger and better things - look forward to giving it a go!
Made me laugh! Hope you get it one day! I 😁
Cleaning Shoes and brushing afterwards. Hope everyone gets it.. it is so annoying to find tick marks and stuff
quick PSA: if you're thinking of climbing outside right now, don't climb on southern sandstone or you'll destroy the rock
Yup well said. S Sandstone has not done well with the wet rock and too many people trashing it :-(
This is bollox, from someone who has climbed on sandstone for 35 years
With the wild country pad, the cover looks removable, has it been put on backwards, as straps on the landing side seems stupid
It's more just Tom being a plonker as he should have removed the straps from the pad :-D. It's definitely the right way round!
Cheers Tom! I'm sure the sheep is a 7a?
pre-placed foot is aid
Not exactly on topic but does it matter how you hang weight when hangboarding? I've just got a backpack filled with water bottles... A cost saving measure
Your friends that did that v5 boulder problem without a problem, are they significantly shorter or with a quite different body morphology? Some 'easy' routes and boulders are just easy if you are of a certain height and can fit within certain holds without having to awkwardly twist to do so
Kind of crazy that the V5 felt as hard as the V12 :o
Harder, hahha. The worst thing was that on the day the V5 got done, it turned out the footage showed a French start on the V5 so it got called out on social media hahaha
@@LatticeTraining What is a french start ?
@@miguelgazquez5717 Rather than pulling on using the starting holds you jump for a higher hold.
@@jackchrisevans And it is not considered "valid" ? I've always done that when I'm not able to do otherwise.
@@miguelgazquez5717 Some people would say that yes. If you’re skipping a hard move then it’s not really legit.
yeah, i don‘t think i‘ll spit in my hand 😄✌️
I've been wanting to go bouldering outdoors in peak distract for a while but need a guide book. which guide book should i get?
Deffo go for the Peak Bouldering one - I think Vertebrate do it??
Is one pad enough for problems in Burbage south valley? As I only have one mid sized pad at the moment.
You should be fine, landings are generally pretty good
Most problems you will be fine
Why not hook your heel? (I dont climb outside) sorry if thats a stupid question
why does chalk on the foot holds not work?
the shoes dont sweat. If you don´t walk around in the climbing shoes they won´t get wet, so no chalk required to dry them ... I use chalk on footholds as tickmarks thow, cause otherwise I struggle finding them during hard moves
@@matthiaskinateder3725 what about in crazy humid weather? It's also rainy season in the tropics...even on the dry days, the crag.ia a bit moist from the slow drip. Climbing on unpressurized granite (dynamite blasted quarry...
@@TheActiveLifeLived True. if the rock itself is wet you gotta dry it.
I´m used to sandstone, that is kind of harder to dry, and it is said that it breaks easier when its wet, so I dont realy go out when it´s wet anyway :D
First off, you have a mean stanky leg on those ankle warmups... Also, when it's a real cold day it actually helps to stick your hands right down your pants. Warms them up right away lol.
Mentions gritstone. *PTSD flashbacks*. Tells story about doing V12 then failing on a V5 on grit. *relief*.
Hahahahaha 😂😂
hands under the armpits is the ultimate way to warm your hands up
Your attempts at the sheep, very reminiscent of my attempts at peak bouldering. Just not getting it, and becoming very negative about the whole thing.
At 4:36 standing on your pads in your walking shoes!!! Big no no in my book, gets mud all over the pads which can then easily end up on your boots, and then the rock. Keep them clean!
chalking your foot holds absolutely helps if they are wet and you're drying them
was going to say this - we do it a lot in the Pacific northwest, but we're climbing mostly on basalt
Certainly on gritstone I’ve found it reduces friction. I assumed people do it to mark their footholds.
Whilst it does help it often leaves a build up of chalk on the holds too which leaves it a bit of a mess and not great for the next person.
@@MF-CLIMB you should always brush your holds after... foot or hand
@@mattiashofmann3695 I hope that you do.
did someone create the holds on that boulder or is it just years of wear?
I think in the outbreak of the second world war the army used it as a firing range and most of the pock marks are impacts from bullets, they will of course be more worn now because of people climbing on them, but the problems wouldn't be there (or would be very different) in the first place if it wasn't for them being there.
@@seblopez149 that's interesting stuff! I know a lot of the climbing in the UK seems to be in quarried areas. Does anyone have a history of crag/spot development there? I'd love to know more.
I wondered that, too. apparently they're old bullet holes: www.mountainproject.com/area/115776019/the-pock-block
Nice vid just think your not putting any effort into the sheep, got to believe it’s well in side your comfort zone
Rule #18 - Limber Up
If you didn't check the temperature behind your neck when Tom did, you might be a psychopathy.
my warm up? thermal underwear!
and a cup of tea
and before i forget, keeping the climbing shoes under my arbeits between climbs.
Yeah, warm up legs before trying super hard mantels... I always skip the legs part and pay for it dearly. Guys do a video " how to love workouts for your chicken-legs".
First