Climb Smart: Boulder Training Efficiency ⚡ | Tips & Tricks by Adam Ondra
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Let's download the AO TIPS & TRICKS leaflet for this episode ⏩ drive.google.com/file/d/1j6Bv...
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No matter what level you are climbing at, there are a few basic rules that apply to all climbers when training on a bouldering route. The ideal composition of a bouldering session should include 30 minutes of warm-up and 90 minutes of climbing. It is important to try out different profiles and styles that the bouldering area has to offer. Choose boulders that are just challenging enough so that you won't complete them in one attempt or that you'll struggle with and might not be able to top them at all. Take long breaks, at least five minutes, between each attempt. Never spend too much time on a single boulder problem. Leave what you can't climb for your next visit.
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA❗
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Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:10 - ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
00:59 - Warm-up
01:09 - Climbing warm-up
02:06 - Choose a boulder with easy, not sketchy moves
05:19 - Rest almost 2 minutes
07:27 - Try a variety of different styles of boulder problems
09:49 - Training part
11:50 - Subscribe = support
12:56 - Golden Bricks by me and @Euroholds
14:52 - Choose 5 to 10 boulders to work on
21:27 - Recap
23:07 - Download the AO TIPS & TRICKS leaflet
23:15 - Outro
Directed by
Vojta Ličko
Edited by
Kuba Sobotka
Starring
Adam Ondra
Special thanks to
Hangar Brno - @hangarclimbingplaygroundby8787
Euroholds - @Euroholds
Camera
Vojta Ličko
Kuba Sobotka
Production
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Kateřina Kuřátková
Graphics
Terezia Tuhrinska
Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková
© Adam Ondra 2023
Songlist
Mountaineer - Paphos
Mountaineer - Sunglasses
Graceful Movement - Breezy Beats
#TipsandTricks #climbing #bouldering #adamondra #AO 
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Hey climbers, let's download the TIPS & TRICKS leaflet for this episode for free ⏩ drive.google.com/file/d/1j6BvSNPJmZo2m9jc9vbhPXKqrUND9u-O/view?usp=sharing and join me in the new membership section for the next TIPS & TRICKS videos. The second one with Teresa is waiting for you there already.
Do a video at B-pump if possible!
Thaaaaanks!!!
Easy warm up boulder, gets on a 7A. I knew it.
Ahah, yup, classic x)
But really appreciated the kind and honnest word on beginners / whatever your level is, you can apply the tips, and we don't care about the number, weather it's 7c, 6a or even some 4, just go and climb ^^
tbh 6A is closer to 7A than 7A to 8C+
was that really a 7A? Lots of holds and his fingers were in deep.
@@Mylada yeah, it's an incredible gap. If your max level is 8C+, what is 7A anymore..
Yeees I was waiting for it too 😂
The climbing community really is unique in that so many professionals are so openly willing to share their experience. From Adam’s typical bouldering session, the whole lattice training RUclips channel, the free crack tutorials from the wide boyz, the hours of incredibly detailed analysis from Dave McLeod…
It’s not taken for granted!
They don't do it for charity, you know ;)
And Magnus is out there doing side quests
I agree it's very cool but maybe not unique to climbing. My other main sport is trail running and I see the same there. I expect it's the same in a lot of sports.
@@rudolphteperberry3888Would you mind sharing a few channels? :) I’m trying to get into a bit more different running than just asphalt or whatever I meet when I get out the door.
@@rudolphteperberry3888 it is (also normal in other sports), a really nice trait of humans in my opinion
man i love how Adam always has this little smile on his face when he talks about climbing, keep up the series!
As a senior climber, I feel like the non-climbing warmup movements are extremely important too, and I'd be very interested in such a session !
thank you very much, it is a great training lesson !
My gym doesn’t usually bother to set boulder problems just for me, but I guess I didn’t realise I had to provide my custom designed holds. This will definitely help me progress.
"Everything up to 8a, I consider as a warm up" 😅
He's so relateable 😏
What an blessing to live in this era where I can watch in depth insights from Adam, Stephano, and Emil back to back to back. So informative and inspiring
Good job on the climbing comp just now, my heart dropped when you slipped on the lead climb. But you did great. Keep your head up my friend
thanks for the spoiler
This is really interesting. I am now curious what an endurance training session would look like. I basically only have been trying max power climbing at the beginning of the session with a high volume session to end it. This has worked well as someone who’s only been climbing a year and a half, but now I can see I need to focus my training more to keep progressing. I will try incorporating sessions like this a few times during the week.
Really good video, gives some perspective on questions I had but couldn't get answered! Hope you'll do more of these!
This is golden and no better way to start the week! Thank you Adam!
Love the concept, thank you ! Could you do the ultimate climbing test like Magnus did ? :)
But he already knows he can climb 9c
@@boogaloo4640 that’s mostly to get more metrics on how strong he is, especially weighted pull ups and finger ! As a benchmark.
what a great idea august! The people wants to see it
let's goooo
Super excited for this tips & tricks series!
Great video! looking forward to the next one. Very educational, i will try adapting these tips to my bouldering sessions. Thanks alot Ondra and crew!
That's the best explanation of warning up. I've always been confused about warming up. Thanks
this was awesome, simple and really helpful. can't wait for another video! Thanks Adam
extremely grateful for this Adam, thank you
I'm halfway through the video and i'm so glad the algorythm suggested it. It's so relaxing and informative to watch and the type of editing is also great. Props :)
I think it would be great to have a similar Video on a typical grip strength session (hangboard etc.)
Joy to watch, nice chilled pace but with loads of practical advice and tackling of immense problems! ❤
Great episode ! Can't wait to see how a session of lead climbing looks like for Adam Ondra !
Also surprised by myself, I was already aware of many things that make a bouldering session efficient.
Thanks for the video
Honestly, I thought I was a bit goofy for climbing randomly, stretching a lot, and just standing and feeling the rock and holds before every session. Kind of almost messing around to some degree vs. actually sending. Glad to see Adam does it too.
Great! Thanks for this and see you in your crew!
It's really nice to see this kind of video coming from you! I definitely want to see more!
Also, I think you can improve your content a lot as you do more and more of these. Besides, you have great friends in the youtube community that can help you that!
Great video 👍
Nice one Adam, great to share what your training strategies are - confirming what most of us should know anyway.
Thank you Adam! Waiting for the next video! I enjoied climbing like hobby 18 years ago and just one year ago I understood warming up and resting importance!!! Very happy to heard by you the same!! Ciaooo!!
Love the video!! Would be awesome to see more of these videos where you explain your trainings/ warmup / stretch program so we can learn from the best :))
As a beginner, this is great! Plenty of tips to add to my routine/sessions :) cheers big O!
thank you, Adam, you inspired me to go again to the climbing hall. Just like you said, I also enjoy bouldering like a warm - up exercise. without having to impress anyone, just enjoying my moves.
Hej Adam, thank you for sharing such nice content. I really admit that listening to your body/instinct while climbing is more important than exactly follow fix rules and plans. Therefore I really like your access. All the best, Dave
Great Adam! Thanks a lot! Very helpful.
Very interesting! Looking forward for the next episode. Can,t wait!
Great vid, thanks for the tips. More please!
Nice video Adam! Could you make a video on how to train power endurance and endurance? It is always difficult for me to know how to separate these two specific training sessions and to plan them.
This was really useful... thank you Adam 👍
Love this series of videos. Definitely I can relate !
Great, let's go to be member-bros! :D Excited as hell!
I really appreciate the "english subtitile available" and also saying that they are. Not enough people care as much as :)
Fantastic video, really really clear and well done. Not always a great athlete is a great teacher, well Adam you’re the best climber and also a very smart teacher. Thanks
great video. a short in-depth of the non-climbing warmup would be cool to see.
Granted it's only a warm-up but I love that one of the most replayed areas in this video is the massive dab at 6:20. Awesome video!
Seeing Adam fall on a 7B slab gives me hope 😆
thanks adam, we wanna see you climbing in the next one
Thank you for those tipps 😊
Great video with a lot of useful tips! Thanks Adam!!
Great video Adam! More of this please :)
I do appreciate you wearing a mike, so we can hear that you are actually working hard on those problems. You make everything look so easy it's good to know I'm not the only one making noices while climbing :)
Yeah same with me. Up to 8a easy warmup
At 5:05 there's a guy wearing a Radium Arcadium shirt from Maastricht's bouldering gym. Nice to see someone from here in Adam's video!
Of course it's also nice to get some insight into Boulder efficiency from Adam, especially his warm up strategy.
Adam, con mi hijo hemos empezado escalar gracias a ti. El tiene 7 años, yo 38 y queremos ser fuertes como tú!
Hola ¡Me encanta leer esto ahora! ¡Buena suerte y entretenimiento escalando a los dos!
Thank you for sharing your amazing experience! Would love to see something familiar for route climbing 😊
Thank you Adam!
It will help me become better
Beautiful format. Thank you
I did this warm up and I finally got my first V5. I haven’t felt like I have progressed until I got the V5.
Wow, really good advices Adam. Thank you very much. Cant wait for next episode! 💪
Glad you liked it! You can watch more Tips & Tricks episodes and get more advice in the new RUclips membership ➡️ ruclips.net/channel/UC8eNyF9eYwgr_K-Nl4gSHWwjoin. See you there!
I like this tips & tricks section. Awaiting for more videos :)
Merci pour ce partage ! Une bonne pédagogie pour une seance d'entraînement claire. Bonne continuation à toi.
Thank you so much for the tips! 😀Very precious! 👍
That back flag kick off the wall at 6:16 to generate momentum from high foot is so dang cool! I feel like I often end up in similar position and try to pull through. Stoked to try this next session!
Great vide as usual !
Thank you Adam for creating this series of tips and tricks. It is very refreshing to hear all this advices from the best climber in the world. Hope to hear some thoughts on mentality and how did you overcome any downfalls if you had any.
Love it! Thank you for sharing.
''typič - aahh, iteresting, i was pretty sure i was gonna do it''
Great video! It would be really nice to see your strategy when approaching a project on the rock as well!
Great viedeo, thank you Adam, please continue with these "courses"..it is really helpful for us..🙂
Ty Adam ! nice video!
This was legit a really good and practical video.
He climbs so fast whenever he tries hard like at 17:12 that you might think the video is sped up. That velocity you don't see it in anybody else and is amazing.
Great video, thx Adam !
Fantastic video!
Super interesting ! I totally agree, warming is so cool to feel good mentally and physically (at least for me), not just to warm up.
Danm I really want to try holding the 50^ block now
This is amazing ❤
Thanks!!!
Managed maybe one 7a in my life!!
Great video!! ❤
Hi Adam, great video, thanks! For the editing/visuals, a small tip is to give the text a black border or a semi transparent background to improve legibility. Now, occassionally text bled into the background.
Hey, thanks for the input. We'll consider it. AO Team
Nice video i love the concept you should do it more
I like the way you verbalize your experience, knowledge and idea.
We move on the information we learned - books, experience. Knowledge system slows down belief system - source of constraints, freeing space for imagination and new knowledge and experience - visualisation processes get better with mental training.
“If it disagrees with experiment, it’s wrong. In that simple statement is the key to science.”
- Richard Feynman
Climbing is science experiment of psychology, regulating biological processes, physics, math and use of cognitive skills pre, during and post climb - senses, inteligence, balance - orientation in space, bilateral integration - synergy of two sides of nervous system - forming coordinations, memory shapes, colors, its orientation in space as well us performing specific task, anything that's task related.
Just it's all about relationships of all systems in the body acting as whole performing movement. Strategies to organize information might be different, but overall it's all about information and its instant access in movement. It's all about predicting and probability as well.
Ecosystem of climbing good is when the knowledge dominates over beliefs, thus finding climbing diamonds to be polished into best possible versions.
Great video, I'd love to see a power endurance bouldering video at some point in the future. I climb once a week, in a 90-minute session and I usually climb with minimal rest to try to maximize endurance training. I want to try and add more sessions during the week to try and balance it out but I'm curious to know how many times a week you think someone should train. Your insights into the sport are incredibly helpful and very much appreciated.
Thank you!!!!!!
Gotta love those 7a warmups!
Thank you, this is very helpful as a beginner
The waiting in between tries is so hard to respect, but so efficient... I still have to warm up properly though, but then it's only been 20 years!
really good, thats a great investment from sponsors to have you do this (as some have coined Masterclass, and charge money) good way to give back and stay in the game you love. Nxt lead climb training :-)
thanks Adam!
Thanks adam!!
Greetings from Alpika in Poland!
Legend as always stay strong
This guy is climbing V7s and V8s as WARM UPs. This guy is climbing what most people will peak at in their climbing AS WARMUPS.
Would love to see a video on mental preparation! Ways to focus, confidence level, preventing frustration and burnout, etc.
This is actually the most interesting question, since it's Adams main strength, in my opinion.
Buen video Adam!!!
Moc děkuji za takové videa od vás všech profíků co tvoříte, moc to pomáhá hlavně takhle pro mně když začínám. Lezu 3 měsíce svoje boty mám ani ne 2 měsíce a lezu obtížnosti V4 označené u nás v Budějicích na stěně což odpovídá asi 6C? Ale tyhle videa co vznikají mi pomáhají se posouvat, takže ještě jednou moc děkuji.
I would keen to see a video on techniques to get around body limitations. Like, I had bone issues with my hips that restrict healhooks and struggle to find ways around it to progress. Or for people of different heights to get around height limiting moves.
Adam with the tips to help us reach "new heights" haha :D
Fantastic tips .. 🎉
Maybe bringing back Kuba Novotny and Dr. Cumpelik for an episode and go over some less talked topics concerning general movement patterns? You had a video with them back in the day and it was super interesting! It was the episode #26 on how to move properly.
Čau, supr video. Jakožto začátečník ocením každou užitečnou radu. Musím určitě zlepšit warm up a nezkoušet těžké nebo riskantní Bouldery. dneska jsem se zranil :) velký skok a natažený sval na lítku. Děkuji za tipy a budu se těšit na podobné videa a moc ti fandím kámo.
All I want is to finish a boulder and have Adam say , 'Well executed '.
awesomee tricks!!
Great video Adam, I was wondering how different would your session be if you have already completed most of the boulders in your gym as in this video you visited a gym with a lot of new boulders.