Oh wow thank you for this. I used to protect all of my books when I started collecting books as a child but back then I had my mother to do it for me tee hee. I am not as meticulous as her sadly. I know that there seems to be ready made similar coverings for dust jackets? I have seen them on books once or twice before. One of the question I had was always whether the books will fit back into their slip cases or boxes. So thank you again for this! PS: I am not so sure about the gloss over my books because I enjoy the texture of some of their nicer bindings so much, however, if there is something like this to protect against UV rays I am all ears and eyes! :)
Yes, the ready made ones I have seen were quite thick and I'm not sure how well they'd go into the slip case. This Mylar is thin (75 microns), very easy to cut and work with, and can be cut from the roll to an exact fit. But, as you say, it takes time and patience to cover a whole collection.
@@UbiquitousBooks I have the 2 mil (50 micron) archival roll from Brodart. So a bit thinner than your 75 microns. Do you think my roll will be sufficient or is it too thin?
@@xstalkrx I'd hazard a guess that the 50 micron would suffice. My experience is that the most important thing is to cut and fold the film so that it's a good fit. Of course, so long as the books are in their slip case it doesn't much matter how thick the film is.
I should add that these were the first two books I covered in this way. I since got much more efficient at it and can do a book in a minute or two. One big help is buying a self-reparing cutting mat with gridlines on it. With such a mat you don't really need to do any measuring; just put the book on top of the Mylar on top of the mat and look through the (helpfully transparent) Mylar to see which grid line you need to cut along.
@@UbiquitousBooks omg yay thank you, how do I protect the edges and the spine ? In your latest video the dustjacket doesn't cover over the edges, can't they still get damaged ? Im new to this and trying to take better care of m t books thx for reply x
@@hugh_dancy I usually leave the edges unprotected. But if you want to cover them you can make some flaps at the top and bottom that fold over the top and bottom edges of the spine. You can see what that looks like in a book at the end of the new video.
Not sure if its available on UK amazon but “Grafix” is the brand for DuraLar clear. I’ve found Brodart archival covering to be better for more delicate & rare books as the paper backing provides better firmness when resting on shelf. The tolls of “just-a-fold-III” are pretty cheap comparably.
Yes, the Grafix stuff was the first recommendation I received. But it's tough to find here in the UK, unfortunately. But I absolutely agree with the Brodart recommendation.
Thanks for the kind comment. I use an unbranded 40cm ruler that I bought from a local hobby shop. But if I were going out to buy a ruler specifically for this purpose then I would buy a steel or aluminium ruler from a hardware shop. Often, such rulers will be fatter along one edge, which makes it a little easier to cut along that edge (and the metal is much less likely to be damaged by the knife than a plastic ruler). Hope that helps!
They work just like any dust jacket you might get on a hardback book. Obviously, they're less stable than if they were attached at the top and bottom, but they stay in place fine for normal laptop reading. The one thing I have found is that bigger and heavier books really benefit from thicker Mylar and folding over larger flaps.
I'm not sure what to do if you want to keep the slipcase on display, but if you want to protect it for long-term storage you could try vacuum sealing it. But you'd need to make sure there's no moisture sealed in there or it would grow mould.
How well does this method keep the mylar on the book? Do you remove it to read? I'm trying to find the best method for myself. I've seen some people using extra mylar, making some folds to give the mylar a space to be taped onto itself, and keeping it anchored to the book. Thoughts?
This method keeps the Mylar on the book about as well as a normal dust jacket stays on its book. I usually remove the Mylar to read unless the binding is somehow delicate. I can see the advnatages of producing some little tabs that fold over the top and bottom of the cover to allow the Mylar to be taped to itself. But my experience is that the most irritating thing is that the Mylar is not anchored to the spine of the book and is no longer taught when the book is open (just like a normal dust jacket). I guess it would require a bit more engineering to fix that problem and it would then be more awkward to remove the Mylar. I might give it a go next time I make one.
Yes you can put it over a dust jacket. In that case, I'd turn up the top and bottom edges of the Mylar to keep the jacket in place. I'd also use a thinner Mylar. In fact, a company called Brodart makes purpose-made book jacket covers for this purpose and that might be the best bet: www.shopbrodart.com/Library-Supplies/Book-Jacket-Covers/. I have one of those Brodart covers on this book: ruclips.net/video/c8Tx5ETG7xQ/видео.html
Also, the Mylar does block some light transmission. But if you really want to keep the sun off your dust jackets the best way to do it would probably be to put some acid free glassine between the Mylar and the jacket. It will be less attractive, but it will keep your jackets pretty much pristine.
I haven't used either brand (these brands don't seem to show up much in the UK). But I have seen people say good things about both. Indeed, the person who first suggested this to me uses the Grafix stuff. The main thing is just to make sure you are getting the right thickness (I use 75 micron) and especially that the material is acid free archival.
@@UbiquitousBooks I see. I as well have heard much about Brodart, especially that their materials are made for libraries. Recently I've found one of their Mylar's acid-free archival covers that are "low-luster" which I prefer. But, their thickness is 1.5mm which is 1500 micron, is that bad since you've mentioned "right thickness" ?
@@MPERTER I guess what you saw is 1.5mil? (1.5mm would be incredibly thick...) Mil is a different unit to mm and 1.5mil is about 38micron. This will be quite lightweight, which is ideal for covering dust jackets and probably okay for small and light books. In my opinion, that sort of thickness doesn't work very well for covering heavier hardcover books like the ones I'm working on here. Your mileage might vary though.
@@UbiquitousBooks Haha you're absolutely correct, it's mil not mm. my bad. I guess you're right, I'll take your word for it. Problem with other sellers is that they only have glossy Mylar, which is horrendous in my opinion. I've found another product of Brodart which is 2mil, not much difference but I guess I'll try it out, as they'll only be on the book when it is on the shelf. Thank you.
Yes, this is true of any dust jacket. Once you are more than a few pages into the book the weight of the book keeps it in place while reading. If it disturbs you then, as I mentioned later in the video, you can add some top and bottom flaps and tape them to the front/back flaps and then it stays firmly put.
I bought it some years ago from a local craft store and don't have anything like a brand name I could give you to look-up. To be honest, I have now given up using that cutter because I realized that I can cut thin material much more quickly and accurately with a good knife and a decent ruler with a proper vertical cutting edge.
I use an unbranded stock that I buy on Amazon (just making sure that it's acid free). It's 75 microns thick. I have found this to be a great thickness for hardback books in the octavo-quarto size range. But it's a bit too thick for covering dust jackets.
![REBINDING The Harry Potter series Into LEATHER Bound Books! [DIY, Bookbinding]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LiqU3SDD-uw/mqdefault.jpg)
There's now an updated version of this video, which you can see here: ruclips.net/video/c8ZQiiWz83s/видео.html
Oh wow thank you for this. I used to protect all of my books when I started collecting books as a child but back then I had my mother to do it for me tee hee. I am not as meticulous as her sadly. I know that there seems to be ready made similar coverings for dust jackets? I have seen them on books once or twice before. One of the question I had was always whether the books will fit back into their slip cases or boxes. So thank you again for this! PS: I am not so sure about the gloss over my books because I enjoy the texture of some of their nicer bindings so much, however, if there is something like this to protect against UV rays I am all ears and eyes! :)
Yes, the ready made ones I have seen were quite thick and I'm not sure how well they'd go into the slip case. This Mylar is thin (75 microns), very easy to cut and work with, and can be cut from the roll to an exact fit. But, as you say, it takes time and patience to cover a whole collection.
@@UbiquitousBooks I have the 2 mil (50 micron) archival roll from Brodart. So a bit thinner than your 75 microns. Do you think my roll will be sufficient or is it too thin?
@@xstalkrx I'd hazard a guess that the 50 micron would suffice. My experience is that the most important thing is to cut and fold the film so that it's a good fit. Of course, so long as the books are in their slip case it doesn't much matter how thick the film is.
I should add that these were the first two books I covered in this way. I since got much more efficient at it and can do a book in a minute or two. One big help is buying a self-reparing cutting mat with gridlines on it. With such a mat you don't really need to do any measuring; just put the book on top of the Mylar on top of the mat and look through the (helpfully transparent) Mylar to see which grid line you need to cut along.
could you please make an updated video with your more efficient process x i would love to see the improvements tysm
@@hugh_dancy you're in luck, I made an updated version just a few weeks ago: ruclips.net/video/c8ZQiiWz83s/видео.html
@@UbiquitousBooks omg yay thank you, how do I protect the edges and the spine ? In your latest video the dustjacket doesn't cover over the edges, can't they still get damaged ? Im new to this and trying to take better care of m t books thx for reply x
@@hugh_dancy I usually leave the edges unprotected. But if you want to cover them you can make some flaps at the top and bottom that fold over the top and bottom edges of the spine. You can see what that looks like in a book at the end of the new video.
Great video and great information
Thanks very much!
ASMR for booksellers
Not sure if its available on UK amazon but “Grafix” is the brand for DuraLar clear.
I’ve found Brodart archival covering to be better for more delicate & rare books as the paper backing provides better firmness when resting on shelf. The tolls of “just-a-fold-III” are pretty cheap comparably.
Yes, the Grafix stuff was the first recommendation I received. But it's tough to find here in the UK, unfortunately. But I absolutely agree with the Brodart recommendation.
Thank you for the great demonstration. What type/brand of ruler are you using? I need a large plastic ruler like yours.
Thanks for the kind comment. I use an unbranded 40cm ruler that I bought from a local hobby shop. But if I were going out to buy a ruler specifically for this purpose then I would buy a steel or aluminium ruler from a hardware shop. Often, such rulers will be fatter along one edge, which makes it a little easier to cut along that edge (and the metal is much less likely to be damaged by the knife than a plastic ruler). Hope that helps!
Without the sleeve being folded above and below, do these not just fall off the books as soon as you open them?
John
They work just like any dust jacket you might get on a hardback book. Obviously, they're less stable than if they were attached at the top and bottom, but they stay in place fine for normal laptop reading. The one thing I have found is that bigger and heavier books really benefit from thicker Mylar and folding over larger flaps.
Can anyone suggest how to protect the slipcase too?
I'm not sure what to do if you want to keep the slipcase on display, but if you want to protect it for long-term storage you could try vacuum sealing it. But you'd need to make sure there's no moisture sealed in there or it would grow mould.
How well does this method keep the mylar on the book? Do you remove it to read? I'm trying to find the best method for myself. I've seen some people using extra mylar, making some folds to give the mylar a space to be taped onto itself, and keeping it anchored to the book. Thoughts?
This method keeps the Mylar on the book about as well as a normal dust jacket stays on its book. I usually remove the Mylar to read unless the binding is somehow delicate. I can see the advnatages of producing some little tabs that fold over the top and bottom of the cover to allow the Mylar to be taped to itself. But my experience is that the most irritating thing is that the Mylar is not anchored to the spine of the book and is no longer taught when the book is open (just like a normal dust jacket). I guess it would require a bit more engineering to fix that problem and it would then be more awkward to remove the Mylar. I might give it a go next time I make one.
Can you put this over a dust jacket and would it protect the jacket from fading etc.?
Yes you can put it over a dust jacket. In that case, I'd turn up the top and bottom edges of the Mylar to keep the jacket in place. I'd also use a thinner Mylar. In fact, a company called Brodart makes purpose-made book jacket covers for this purpose and that might be the best bet: www.shopbrodart.com/Library-Supplies/Book-Jacket-Covers/. I have one of those Brodart covers on this book: ruclips.net/video/c8Tx5ETG7xQ/видео.html
Also, the Mylar does block some light transmission. But if you really want to keep the sun off your dust jackets the best way to do it would probably be to put some acid free glassine between the Mylar and the jacket. It will be less attractive, but it will keep your jackets pretty much pristine.
@@UbiquitousBooks When covering dust jackets do you use the ones with or without paper from Brodart? Also 1.5 mil or 2 mil?
@@justinvoye8967 I have the type with a paper back. I don't remember which thickness I used, but I suspect it was the 2 mil, judging by feel.
Would you choose Grafix/Dura-Lar or Brodart?
I haven't used either brand (these brands don't seem to show up much in the UK). But I have seen people say good things about both. Indeed, the person who first suggested this to me uses the Grafix stuff. The main thing is just to make sure you are getting the right thickness (I use 75 micron) and especially that the material is acid free archival.
@@UbiquitousBooks I see. I as well have heard much about Brodart, especially that their materials are made for libraries. Recently I've found one of their Mylar's acid-free archival covers that are "low-luster" which I prefer. But, their thickness is 1.5mm which is 1500 micron, is that bad since you've mentioned "right thickness" ?
@@MPERTER I guess what you saw is 1.5mil? (1.5mm would be incredibly thick...) Mil is a different unit to mm and 1.5mil is about 38micron. This will be quite lightweight, which is ideal for covering dust jackets and probably okay for small and light books. In my opinion, that sort of thickness doesn't work very well for covering heavier hardcover books like the ones I'm working on here. Your mileage might vary though.
@@UbiquitousBooks Haha you're absolutely correct, it's mil not mm. my bad. I guess you're right, I'll take your word for it. Problem with other sellers is that they only have glossy Mylar, which is horrendous in my opinion.
I've found another product of Brodart which is 2mil, not much difference but I guess I'll try it out, as they'll only be on the book when it is on the shelf.
Thank you.
But there is nothing stopping the cover flipping out when the book is opened . . .
Yes, this is true of any dust jacket. Once you are more than a few pages into the book the weight of the book keeps it in place while reading. If it disturbs you then, as I mentioned later in the video, you can add some top and bottom flaps and tape them to the front/back flaps and then it stays firmly put.
Where did you get the roller cutter?
I bought it some years ago from a local craft store and don't have anything like a brand name I could give you to look-up. To be honest, I have now given up using that cutter because I realized that I can cut thin material much more quickly and accurately with a good knife and a decent ruler with a proper vertical cutting edge.
Finally a book cover for my Satan book of spells
Where do you buy your roll of mylar? Brodart? How many mil is the mylar you show on this video?
I use an unbranded stock that I buy on Amazon (just making sure that it's acid free). It's 75 microns thick. I have found this to be a great thickness for hardback books in the octavo-quarto size range. But it's a bit too thick for covering dust jackets.
@@UbiquitousBooks any chance that you might put a link on here for the Amazon mylar that you buy?
@@carterri04 Sure, it's this one: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00R4UZID8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My god it’s annoying to get this to not be too tight on the book
Thank you so much, I'm getting a grimoire I've wanted badly and heard abit of the design is flakey.