How to make MYLAR dust jackets to protect fine and rare books
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Check out the blog for more book-related content: ubiquitousbooks.wordpress.com/
Follow me on Instagram: / ubiquitousbookblog
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00:00 Introduction
00:32 Supplies
00:57 Mylar thickness
01:36 Making a Mylar dust jacket 1 - cutting
02:38 Making a Mylar dust jacket 2 - folding
03:55 Other kinds of book coverings
04:22 Protecting paper dust jackets
05:27 Protecting slipcases
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Filmed on a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k with a Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 lens. 
Хобби
Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for! Last year I discovered vintage books on eBay (not for collector value but for reading value) and now have a lovely lot of novels, travel diaries, and WWII social histories published between 1850 and 1950. After finding the cover of one accidentally damaged I want to protect them but also display them so this is perfect.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, besides protecting the books and letting the cover show through, this mylar adds a nice gloss sheen on the shelf, which can sometimes perk up a slightly tired looking old book.
Thank you so much! It took me so long to find the video I was looking for, you explained the process I was looking for so well thank you!
Great video and great information
Thank you!
Very cool! Exactly what I was looking for. I subbed cheers!
Thanks ks very much!
Perfect! From esoteric to exoteric in under six minutes. Thank you.
ty for the video, is there a tutorial on how you made your slipcase cover please
There isn't. I don't cover my slipcases and only have a covered one because it was made by a previous owner.
Super
@UbiquitousBooks, Thank you for the great demo! I have a big heavy book that's 13 inches tall and 3 inches thick. Do you think that 7 mil mylar may be too thick? I've heard from some that 5 mil may not be strong enough for large books, but I want to make sure that I'll be able to fold the mylar. I appreciate any guidance you can provide.
To give you a bit of a guide, the 3mil stuff I normally use has a similar thickness to a heavy-duty printer paper (about 110gsm). 7mil would obviously be a little more than double the thickness, so more like a heavy-duty watercolour paper. While I have never used that thickness, I think you'd be able to fold it okay. That said, this stuff is very tear resistant and I think 5mil would also be okay for a book of that size.
@@UbiquitousBooks Excellent analogy. I recently handled an Arthur Singer watercolor. If 7mil is like the thick paper he used, that might be too much -- even for my giant book. I'll go with 5 mil first. I can always make adjustments. Thank you so much!
I have been doing this with a thinner cellophane sheet. It works well but the cellophane is so thin that after staying in the shelf below other books, the cellophane develops some random wrinkles.
I don't have that problem with this mylar. The main thing, though, is to make sure that whatever you are using is archival/acid free so that there's no risk of the film leeching chemicals that could damage the book its supposed to protect.
Any idea where to get a roll of polyester film like that in the US? Or any amazon links? I don't see that brand listed at all on US amazon, and a lot of the other brands look much more expensive than the one you showed off.
Hi, sorry I don't know the US market very well. The people in the Fine Books group usually recommend Grafix DuraLar, but I guess that might be one of the more expensive ones you saw. The important thing is that you get non-adhesive polyester film that is archival. You could try using those as search terms? Alternatively, you could try searching instead for stores specialized in archival materials and see if they have any generic brands in stock or could recommend a generic supplier to you. Hope it works out!
Thank for this very well explained video and for your advice !
I was wondering : do you think 80 microns could be fine for dust jacket covering ? Because where I live, 80 microns is the closest to your product I can get, unfortunately.
80 microns will work, but it's quite heavy duty and you might find that the book will no longer close flat if you wrap that around the just jacket. The book at 4:37 has a dust jacket covered with 75 micron, which should be pretty similar to 80 microns and give you an idea of what to expect.
@@UbiquitousBooks Thank you very much for your answer !
I do this for all my fantasy books. Your books don't have to be rare to do this.
Yes, fair point. Any book you care about enough to protect can benefit from this treatment. Thanks for commenting.
@@UbiquitousBooks Thanks for showing me how to use them properly lol
I cant find those mylar sheets for sale anywhere. Help?
What country are you in?
Can I do this on Paperbacks?
Absolutely you can. It is also possible to buy dedicated book protectors to fit standard sized paperbacks. Those protectors are a bit more heavy-duty and offer better protection for the edges of the book, but will be a bit more expensive.
Where can I find the product you are using?
I use this one: amzn.eu/d/dswvjNa
Your English is very good, certainly much better than my Dutch, but the word is "cut" not "coot" and "front (frunt)" not "froont".
I should hope my English is good, seeing that I am an Englishman!
i think you mean 0.3 mm not 3mm
I don't think I said 3mm anywhere in the video. I said 3 mil, but a mil is different to a millimeter.
Hello Ubiquitous: A bit of friendly commentary......... . Your title is a bit misleading because the most important part of this video tutorial is shown at 0:44 to 0:47. This provides information on Grafix Dura-Lar, not Mylar, and this is critically important because they are not the same. Dura-Lar is superior to mylar because, as shown, it is archival, acid free, crystal clear, does not change colour or deteriorate over time, and - most important - can be used on any book binding material, e.g., cloth, silk, morocco leather, vellum, etc. You should change the title from MYLAR to GRAFIX DURA-LAR.
Two other tricks: (1) After making the crease/fold for the front cover, make folds for the two edges of the book spine - one at a time - before proceeding to the front edge of the rear cover of the binding. This assures a very precise fit and eliminates any loose fit of the clear dust wrapper. (2) Similarly, to avoid a loosely fitting Dura-Lar dust wrapper, make the inside Dura-Lar flap nearly as long as the outside cover so that the Dura-Lar comes within 2-3 cm of the inside gutter. This will prevent the Dura-Lar dust wrapper from moving about as you are reading the book.
I make Dura-Lar dust wrappers for ALL of my fine & private press books and have never had an adverse interaction between the Dura-Lar and the binding material of any book.
Hello, Oracle thanks for commenting. The title says Mylar because Dura-Lar isn't really marketed in the UK, so even if people here knew to search for it they would find it quite difficult to buy in sizes big enough for book covering. Instead, people tend to use the term Mylar (improperly) as a generic term for polyester film, even though Mylar is also not widely marketed here. For an international audience I think the most important thing is to point people polyester film that is acid free and archival, preferably from a reliable supplier of archiving products.
Good tips on the folding.
Nope, that's not true at all. Super clear acid-free archival mylar exists.
If it was a truly valuable book, i wouldnt use tape, as you risk some damage from the glue seeping through. Perhaps heat welding or a glue. But i am not an expert.
Tape's fine.