Thank you, 🙏Lol, yeah I was kind of scared to parallel the truck like that, I didn’t want to freak the driver out... but then I was like hell it’ll be cool if I can catch him 🤘🤣.
WOW freakin awesome flight, thanks for sharing, cant wait for my Iflight xl 7 v4 to get here so I can do some mid to long range flying like this as well.
@@ShawnG_FPV I got out west twice a year for work, usually late April then again in august. I try to run from SLC to Salem Oregon or Seattle then down to Modesto and back to SLC. Hopefully I’ll be out there next month, I’m usually confined to interstates or maybe a US route because I’m in the semi but thinking about taking a week off up there and renting a car to get to some juicer spots.
Even a 6” is a bit of a game changer. It just cruises at a higher speed and you can cover a lot more ground with basically the same flight time. 7 is a happy medium and still pretty nimble, this 8 really hustles but you can feel the weight. Go for one, you won’t regret it.
I keep coming back to this video. Its got that feeling that FPV is all about for me. I have an FR7 v5.1 since last year but i got that 8" itch now and ordered the FR8 v6.1 kit and i am going to move over the electronics. The motors are BH 2805.6 1300Kv. Might be too weak for 8".. I did get the Gemfan 8040 thought and they are 10.5g compared to the 15.5g for the HQ Macros so might be ok? If it feels bad in the air i could upgrade.
Thank you 🙏 !! Yeah it’s going to struggle with that small of a stator, even my 2808 and 2807.5 struggle on 8” especially when it’s windy. Now if it’s dead calm, I don’t think you’ll have any issues, pids might need to be quite high with a good amount of filtering (.6-.8) on both filter sliders to get the authority it’s going to need. I’ve been trying to get the 2807.5 1300kv to work because I want the excellent efficiency, but I get some horizon wobble and motor heat because the motors just can’t keep up especially in the wind. Your right about the gemfan props, they made a 75% improvement in footage quality for me as opposed to the clunky HQ tri blades, HQ just released a 8x5 poly bi blade (similar to the old hq standard 7” props) so I think those are going to be really light and might be that last little bit. If your using a newer GoPro hypersmooth removes most of the oscillations I get in the wind (well covers them up) and I’m running a hero 7, an 8 or even a 9 or 10 with reel steady hypersmooth will give you a lot more room in the tune. I might try going to a 2810 or 2812 but I need to review the data sheets and see what the amperage is on those, if I end up decreasing efficiency then what is even the point of going up to an 8” prop in the first place. Lol.
@@Finalmile_FPV Thank you for the very informative reply! Yeah reason i wanted to keep the 2806.5 was for efficiency but the more i see 8" quad videos i realize nobody uses that small motors on 8". I assume for the reason you wrote, they cant handle the load very well when pushing them or in wind situations. I wonder if the new iflight Xing2 2809 could be good, their charts looks almost too good to be true when comparing to something like the T-motor F100.
@@minaexperiment your welcome, you might still be cutting it close on a 2809. Most people I know flying heaving 8” are running 2812, that’s probably what I’ll go to if I switch them out. I just don’t want to spend the extra cash on 4 new motors and only have marginally better performance. I think KV has more of an impact on efficiency than overall stator volume, as long as we’re taking the median volume for any given prop size (obviously a 3120 on a 5” prop would be horrible). It’s really threading the needle to get the absolute smallest stator size and still have acceptable performance. A mavic for example is really over propped but the gimbal hides any oscillation in the footage. I will say, since stator volume is the only actual important factor I’m might go with something tall and narrow so the motor has the volume of a 2808 or 2810 but it much more responsive because it doesn’t have that wide heavy bell to spool up and down. It seems the horizon wobble and even jello is just an effect of the fc commanding movements that then the motors can’t physically keep up with, so the mechanical part is always behind the gyro data, and this just gets magnified when it’s windy. I’m really striving to find the perfect middle ground here, for the places I want to fly I need 4-5 miles of range with plenty of battery to climb and loiter on station and still make it back. My floss 8” on a 4000 6s1p lion gives me 3.75 ish, my fr8 with a 4000 lipo is good for 2.5 max, the only real difference between the two setups is weight and motor kv.
Thank you 🙏. It’s the FR7, I usually order the frame from Airblade UAV. Mine has custom cut 8” arms that can be done by any CNC shop (I used CNC Madness) www.airbladeuav.com/products/fr7-7-inch-long-range-frame-kit
Heck yeah, I grew up in Illinois myself 🤘. Saw that field and just thought it would be great to just open it up. Shoulda stayed lower but man I didn’t wanna biff it and have to hike a mile in the muddy corn field 🤦♂️😆
I run Lensskins on my hero 7, I had an ND8 on I believe for this flight. About 3 points of saturation and 5 of color boost in post as well to really add to the golden hour look. That brand is solid for the hero 7, aluminum shell and coated optical glass with minimal flare and reasonably priced. They are the the snap on kind.
Sure thing, it’s a hero 7 black. I always run an ND filter, and hypersmooth. I prefer ND 8 even if that leaves it slightly over exposed, I’ll just turn the highlights down in post. Editing is done on Davinci resolve free version, GoPro settings are ISO locked 100 GoPro color (although I’ve since switched to flat, requires more work in post but captures more raw information) Shutter auto White balance 5500 (maybe 6000 if it’s overcast and grey) 2.7k 60 FPS Superview Mic setting = wind (currently looking for mic mods to even out the motor / wind noise) Ev comp is zero Hope that helps 🤘
@@Finalmile_FPV Sick thanks for the insight. You can even out noise in Resolve if you right click the audio and choose Normalize Audio levels. Thats what i always use. It evens out peak to peak audio levels. MIght be a paid feature though. Im not sure.
@@empiirefpv thank you so much for that, I’ll try it tonight. I always wondered how people got such clean motor noise, I’ll give the software approach a shot before I go to modding the camera itself.
35 degrees, it’s a lot but once she gets going it just rocks and rolls. The 8” hustles, my 10” of the same frame is 10mph slower cruising just from the drag.
I love them, I wish HQ would release a carbon 7” prop, I heard they’re coming in both tri and Bi blade but idk. These are super solid for an 8”, stiff and hold the load of a heavier bird without flexing. They sound good as is, a bi blade version would absolutely sound wicked. Check out my FR8 maiden video, There’s no music and I had the same props on you can really hear the motors on that one.
I like the digital because it does better around objects, I can fly on the other side of trailers and near metal without the multi path noise of analog. I got pretty good range on analog though, try and find antennas with a near 1 axial ratio, and if your flying long range on rapid fire go to traditional or legacy mode, use a patch on the bottom port. That way it won’t try and combine the image and signal from the Omni with the patch, which at long range just introduces noise from the sub par Omni signal. That gave me best results.
Serious question: above like ... 5-700 meters my video goes to shit- flyable but just static hell, no way I’m flying that low like you are. Any tricks? I already use 400 / 800 mW with 15 cm long antennas, good patch and clover omni on my goggles.
@@LeRainbow lmao. No, are you also on DJI or analog? I’m running the Omnis on top for DJI and the true rc patch on the bottom, I make a conscious effort to keep my head up and level so my directional is always pointed with the optimal gain pattern facing out. If your on analog, and running a rapid fire or fusion try switching to traditional diversity. With the rapid fire / fusion it’s combining the signal from both antennas into one image (that’s how it’s amazing) but for mid to long range it actually works against you as it never fully discards the crap signal from the Omni for the patch signal which is much stronger at long range (this is especially true low to the ground as you get toward the bottom of the Omni donut, and close to the null). By switching to traditional diversity it will completely choose whichever antenna has the strongest signal and not use partial crap signal from the other antenna, which for long range would be only the patch. This should cut down on the static in the image and greatly improve your range, downside is you really have to be careful to no fly outside the coverage of the directional antenna, if so it’ll switch back to the Omni which at 1-2km is probably close to nothing. I hope that helps, it really helped me on analog before I switched over to digital, ran the pepperbox extreme / true rc xair... good gain and wide beam, just limited vertical coverage but I like it low and fast so that want an issue for me
@@Finalmile_FPV thanks for the in detail response man, I use an eachine pro58 RX with Achillez Firmware using Kerberos, Manual and Ultra mode ( pure diversity, stitch together with multipathing etc etc ) I think it’s just the un-cleanliness of my build. Mud and grass everywhere, cables haven’t been touched for years, no caps, cheap copy TBS u.FL pigtail. I’ll for now just stay close range until I have the funds to build a 18650 long range mini cruiser :P
@@LeRainbow your welcome, you might try going traditional diversity just for a hoot, the stitch together stuff does work well for most of the time, just that low and long gets you with half a crappy Omni image mixed in there. Lol. Achilles firmware, that was before I got into FPV or right when I did, I remember looking at modules and rapid fire had just released so I went that route. I’m kinda new to the FPV game, so much to learn still lol.
Really hustling like this it’s 6-7 mins on a 4000 6s. If you slow it down to 45-50 mph you can get over 10, it just wants to go fast and it’s 1625g so she’s a pork chop. I’m not good with throttle restraint either 😆
Well thank you, I just got the FR10 up and running, I’d originally built it with spare parts and finally re did it proper. Kind of chasing the optimum heavy cruise size, my goal is 2-4 miles out and 55-75 with 1000ft of elevation difference, the 8 is probably right there and the 10 is looking promising (BH3115 900kv) but I’ve always been fascinated by the hildaguard and even more the hildabeast, not sure I’d gain anything goal wise but just the size and mass is impressive to want to take on as a technical challenge. I’ve got some 80a f series APD escs and PDB lying around. What frame is your 15”. I’m no racer so an aluminum X or beast class true X frame is probably outside my wheelhouse.
@@Finalmile_FPV Yeah I noticed/watched the video of the FR10 afterwards. Covers a mile easily but it doesn't feel like it cause it's so large lol. I pretty much did mine for the exact same reason, technical challenge and mass. My frame choice is more of a heavy lift style though, the ZD680 (larger brother of the slightly more popular ZD550), but I assumed that it could easily double as a cruiser. Only issue is that I probably need a larger battery (currently on a 4s 6Ah) and better TX/RX (FlySky right now... yay.). The issue I'm facing now is PID tuning, it oscillates horizontally like crazy if it's disturbed by stick input even in acro (I heard that this could be from it being under weighted - no gimbal or camera on it yet). How'd you do your PIDs? I really can't find anything online for quads larger than ~7".
@@55yxalaG try UAVTECH for some basic presets, I generally don’t crank my pids like his right out of the gate until I’ve black box logged a flight and tuned the filters properly. The flight from earlier the 10” was at 1.1 Pd gain and 1.1 Pd balance with the master at 1. On my 8” I’m at like 1.4 gain and 1.3 balance and it’s just about perfect, authority issues can definitely show up on the big stuff, just so much more mass swinging around that even with upsized motors the Pd authority still needs a boost. Lack of mass could be an issue, the trouble is low authority and too much authority can look similar until you BB log and see exactly what’s going on in the FC from both stick inputs and external forces. Uavtech is my go to resource, if you haven’t checked him out his page and YT channel are a good mine of tuning information.
@@VogxelFPV wasn’t too far off from defaults. I usually lower all filtering cutoffs to match the lower resonance of the larger props, this frame is super noisy so you can’t push the tune as much as you’d like. I was around 1.1 on everything with filters lower substantially. Phase delay is a real problem for me on the larger stuff, 8” +. I’ll see if I have an old log file from this and I’ll paste it in, it’s been rebuilt a few times since I filmed this. Currently on 2812 1300kv, that widened the tuning window a lot over the 2808, much better at swinging a heavier props
FR7 frame from Airblade 8” arms cut by CNC madness FR7 TPU kit from BMC 3D Tmotor F7 HD stack DJI air unit True RC carbon matchstick longs X2 Mmcx to rpsma x2 BN 880 gps Crossfire nano SE w/ immortal T (recommend upgrading to diversity) Brother Hobby 2808 1500kv IFlight esc wire guards x4 IFlight led kit 5pc DJI TPU lens guard HQ 8x4.5x3 carbons Panasonic 50v 1000mf capacitor on main leads. Xt90 main lead Rotor riot kwad skidz (black) Apex rubberized 300mm battery straps x2 (look for a better option, these separated easily at the stitching) CNHL 4000mah 6s 70c
Imagine you are driving a car In the highway and look out the window to see a drone matching ur speed, would be cool. Great flight!
Thank you, 🙏Lol, yeah I was kind of scared to parallel the truck like that, I didn’t want to freak the driver out... but then I was like hell it’ll be cool if I can catch him 🤘🤣.
Subbed for solid control, locked quad, accurate numbers, and even showing me how to find good background music (ncs). Thanks!
Thank you 🙏 and your very welcome.
Amazing flight mate! Love the gold hour as well! :D
That's cool as hell. I didn't realize how high up you were at first.
WOW freakin awesome flight, thanks for sharing, cant wait for my Iflight xl 7 v4 to get here so I can do some mid to long range flying like this as well.
Thank you 🙏, It’s awesome having a bigger kwad, these 7 and 8 inch kwads just cover so much ground and do it effortlessly. Your gonna love it by
@@Finalmile_FPV Yeah they do, this should do the trick for ripping around the farm fields, the near by beach and the river canyons here in the PNW!
@@ShawnG_FPV absolutely. Love the PNW, this summer will be my first with a larger than 5” kwad out there so I hope to make it count.
@@Finalmile_FPV Its a great place with just about everything to fly. Do you make it here often?
@@ShawnG_FPV I got out west twice a year for work, usually late April then again in august. I try to run from SLC to Salem Oregon or Seattle then down to Modesto and back to SLC. Hopefully I’ll be out there next month, I’m usually confined to interstates or maybe a US route because I’m in the semi but thinking about taking a week off up there and renting a car to get to some juicer spots.
Love this video!
Very cool. Now I want a skillet.
Awesome flight I like how low you were
Awesome speed! I really need to get a bigger quad I feel like I would enjoy this kind of flying
Even a 6” is a bit of a game changer. It just cruises at a higher speed and you can cover a lot more ground with basically the same flight time. 7 is a happy medium and still pretty nimble, this 8 really hustles but you can feel the weight. Go for one, you won’t regret it.
I keep coming back to this video. Its got that feeling that FPV is all about for me. I have an FR7 v5.1 since last year but i got that 8" itch now and
ordered the FR8 v6.1 kit and i am going to move over the electronics.
The motors are BH 2805.6 1300Kv. Might be too weak for 8".. I did get the Gemfan 8040 thought and they are 10.5g compared to the 15.5g for the HQ Macros so might be ok? If it feels bad in the air i could upgrade.
Thank you 🙏 !!
Yeah it’s going to struggle with that small of a stator, even my 2808 and 2807.5 struggle on 8” especially when it’s windy. Now if it’s dead calm, I don’t think you’ll have any issues, pids might need to be quite high with a good amount of filtering (.6-.8) on both filter sliders to get the authority it’s going to need.
I’ve been trying to get the 2807.5 1300kv to work because I want the excellent efficiency, but I get some horizon wobble and motor heat because the motors just can’t keep up especially in the wind.
Your right about the gemfan props, they made a 75% improvement in footage quality for me as opposed to the clunky HQ tri blades, HQ just released a 8x5 poly bi blade (similar to the old hq standard 7” props) so I think those are going to be really light and might be that last little bit.
If your using a newer GoPro hypersmooth removes most of the oscillations I get in the wind (well covers them up) and I’m running a hero 7, an 8 or even a 9 or 10 with reel steady hypersmooth will give you a lot more room in the tune.
I might try going to a 2810 or 2812 but I need to review the data sheets and see what the amperage is on those, if I end up decreasing efficiency then what is even the point of going up to an 8” prop in the first place. Lol.
@@Finalmile_FPV Thank you for the very informative reply! Yeah reason i wanted to keep the 2806.5 was for efficiency but the more i see 8" quad videos i realize nobody uses that small motors on 8". I assume for the reason you wrote, they cant handle the load very well when pushing them or in wind situations.
I wonder if the new iflight Xing2 2809 could be good, their charts looks almost too good to be true when comparing to something like the T-motor F100.
@@minaexperiment your welcome, you might still be cutting it close on a 2809. Most people I know flying heaving 8” are running 2812, that’s probably what I’ll go to if I switch them out. I just don’t want to spend the extra cash on 4 new motors and only have marginally better performance.
I think KV has more of an impact on efficiency than overall stator volume, as long as we’re taking the median volume for any given prop size (obviously a 3120 on a 5” prop would be horrible).
It’s really threading the needle to get the absolute smallest stator size and still have acceptable performance. A mavic for example is really over propped but the gimbal hides any oscillation in the footage. I will say, since stator volume is the only actual important factor I’m might go with something tall and narrow so the motor has the volume of a 2808 or 2810 but it much more responsive because it doesn’t have that wide heavy bell to spool up and down. It seems the horizon wobble and even jello is just an effect of the fc commanding movements that then the motors can’t physically keep up with, so the mechanical part is always behind the gyro data, and this just gets magnified when it’s windy.
I’m really striving to find the perfect middle ground here, for the places I want to fly I need 4-5 miles of range with plenty of battery to climb and loiter on station and still make it back. My floss 8” on a 4000 6s1p lion gives me 3.75 ish, my fr8 with a 4000 lipo is good for 2.5 max, the only real difference between the two setups is weight and motor kv.
@@Finalmile_FPV Thats great info thanks!
other teenagers : i want a girlfriend
me: i want the fat shark googles
I want a girlfriend that rocks fat shark goggles 🤔🤣. I guess I can keep dreaming.
Love this flight, can I ask what frame this, or if you have a build vid or something, just loved the look of it in the thumbnail
Thank you 🙏. It’s the FR7, I usually order the frame from Airblade UAV. Mine has custom cut 8” arms that can be done by any CNC shop (I used CNC Madness)
www.airbladeuav.com/products/fr7-7-inch-long-range-frame-kit
There is more than corn here in Indiana. But Damn it sure flat there. You can see for miles. love the long line flights. 👍🏼👍🏼
Heck yeah, I grew up in Illinois myself 🤘. Saw that field and just thought it would be great to just open it up. Shoulda stayed lower but man I didn’t wanna biff it and have to hike a mile in the muddy corn field 🤦♂️😆
Nice flight! I like you're GoPro mount, t I'm. T is in the front, cool. Did you DIY? Where can I find one like to try it out.
BMC3D is my TPU supplier, check out his site, it’s under the FR7 accessory set
Awesome flight! What GoPro filter did you use?
I run Lensskins on my hero 7, I had an ND8 on I believe for this flight. About 3 points of saturation and 5 of color boost in post as well to really add to the golden hour look. That brand is solid for the hero 7, aluminum shell and coated optical glass with minimal flare and reasonably priced. They are the the snap on kind.
Do you have a link for that tpu Mount ? (Gopro/fpv/crossfire)
BMC3D is who I use for all my FR stuff
bmc3d.co/collections/fr7-products
Footage looks sweet. Can you share your gopro settings? Which one are you using?
Sure thing, it’s a hero 7 black. I always run an ND filter, and hypersmooth. I prefer ND 8 even if that leaves it slightly over exposed, I’ll just turn the highlights down in post. Editing is done on Davinci resolve free version, GoPro settings are
ISO locked 100
GoPro color (although I’ve since switched to flat, requires more work in post but captures more raw information)
Shutter auto
White balance 5500 (maybe 6000 if it’s overcast and grey)
2.7k 60 FPS
Superview
Mic setting = wind (currently looking for mic mods to even out the motor / wind noise)
Ev comp is zero
Hope that helps 🤘
@@Finalmile_FPV Sick thanks for the insight. You can even out noise in Resolve if you right click the audio and choose Normalize Audio levels. Thats what i always use. It evens out peak to peak audio levels. MIght be a paid feature though. Im not sure.
@@empiirefpv thank you so much for that, I’ll try it tonight. I always wondered how people got such clean motor noise, I’ll give the software approach a shot before I go to modding the camera itself.
What camera angle for this speed?
35 degrees, it’s a lot but once she gets going it just rocks and rolls. The 8” hustles, my 10” of the same frame is 10mph slower cruising just from the drag.
Do the carbon blades produce great sound ?! I really want to use carbon bi blade!!
I love them, I wish HQ would release a carbon 7” prop, I heard they’re coming in both tri and Bi blade but idk. These are super solid for an 8”, stiff and hold the load of a heavier bird without flexing. They sound good as is, a bi blade version would absolutely sound wicked.
Check out my FR8 maiden video, There’s no music and I had the same props on you can really hear the motors on that one.
Do you use the digital FPV system because I can't get that kind of range out of my analog quad
I like the digital because it does better around objects, I can fly on the other side of trailers and near metal without the multi path noise of analog. I got pretty good range on analog though, try and find antennas with a near 1 axial ratio, and if your flying long range on rapid fire go to traditional or legacy mode, use a patch on the bottom port. That way it won’t try and combine the image and signal from the Omni with the patch, which at long range just introduces noise from the sub par Omni signal. That gave me best results.
Serious question: above like ... 5-700 meters my video goes to shit- flyable but just static hell, no way I’m flying that low like you are. Any tricks? I already use 400 / 800 mW with 15 cm long antennas, good patch and clover omni on my goggles.
And please don’t let the answer be 1.3 GHz VTXs :P
@@LeRainbow lmao. No, are you also on DJI or analog? I’m running the Omnis on top for DJI and the true rc patch on the bottom, I make a conscious effort to keep my head up and level so my directional is always pointed with the optimal gain pattern facing out. If your on analog, and running a rapid fire or fusion try switching to traditional diversity. With the rapid fire / fusion it’s combining the signal from both antennas into one image (that’s how it’s amazing) but for mid to long range it actually works against you as it never fully discards the crap signal from the Omni for the patch signal which is much stronger at long range (this is especially true low to the ground as you get toward the bottom of the Omni donut, and close to the null). By switching to traditional diversity it will completely choose whichever antenna has the strongest signal and not use partial crap signal from the other antenna, which for long range would be only the patch. This should cut down on the static in the image and greatly improve your range, downside is you really have to be careful to no fly outside the coverage of the directional antenna, if so it’ll switch back to the Omni which at 1-2km is probably close to nothing. I hope that helps, it really helped me on analog before I switched over to digital, ran the pepperbox extreme / true rc xair... good gain and wide beam, just limited vertical coverage but I like it low and fast so that want an issue for me
@@Finalmile_FPV thanks for the in detail response man, I use an eachine pro58 RX with Achillez Firmware using Kerberos, Manual and Ultra mode ( pure diversity, stitch together with multipathing etc etc ) I think it’s just the un-cleanliness of my build. Mud and grass everywhere, cables haven’t been touched for years, no caps, cheap copy TBS u.FL pigtail. I’ll for now just stay close range until I have the funds to build a 18650 long range mini cruiser :P
@@LeRainbow your welcome, you might try going traditional diversity just for a hoot, the stitch together stuff does work well for most of the time, just that low and long gets you with half a crappy Omni image mixed in there. Lol. Achilles firmware, that was before I got into FPV or right when I did, I remember looking at modules and rapid fire had just released so I went that route. I’m kinda new to the FPV game, so much to learn still lol.
Interesting! Flight time?
Really hustling like this it’s 6-7 mins on a 4000 6s. If you slow it down to 45-50 mph you can get over 10, it just wants to go fast and it’s 1625g so she’s a pork chop. I’m not good with throttle restraint either 😆
where did you find that camera mount
BMC 3D is who I use for all my FR frame accessories. He’s done 3 or 4 sets for me and all great quality
Subscribed !
Thank you 🙏. Feel free to shout out ideas, I kind of just share my flights but I’m up for suggestions
Awesome how it just looks (by the video) so massive in flight. looking forward to doing the same with my 15" :) Do you plan on going bigger?
Well thank you, I just got the FR10 up and running, I’d originally built it with spare parts and finally re did it proper. Kind of chasing the optimum heavy cruise size, my goal is 2-4 miles out and 55-75 with 1000ft of elevation difference, the 8 is probably right there and the 10 is looking promising (BH3115 900kv) but I’ve always been fascinated by the hildaguard and even more the hildabeast, not sure I’d gain anything goal wise but just the size and mass is impressive to want to take on as a technical challenge. I’ve got some 80a f series APD escs and PDB lying around. What frame is your 15”. I’m no racer so an aluminum X or beast class true X frame is probably outside my wheelhouse.
@@Finalmile_FPV Yeah I noticed/watched the video of the FR10 afterwards. Covers a mile easily but it doesn't feel like it cause it's so large lol. I pretty much did mine for the exact same reason, technical challenge and mass. My frame choice is more of a heavy lift style though, the ZD680 (larger brother of the slightly more popular ZD550), but I assumed that it could easily double as a cruiser. Only issue is that I probably need a larger battery (currently on a 4s 6Ah) and better TX/RX (FlySky right now... yay.). The issue I'm facing now is PID tuning, it oscillates horizontally like crazy if it's disturbed by stick input even in acro (I heard that this could be from it being under weighted - no gimbal or camera on it yet). How'd you do your PIDs? I really can't find anything online for quads larger than ~7".
@@55yxalaG try UAVTECH for some basic presets, I generally don’t crank my pids like his right out of the gate until I’ve black box logged a flight and tuned the filters properly. The flight from earlier the 10” was at 1.1 Pd gain and 1.1 Pd balance with the master at 1. On my 8” I’m at like 1.4 gain and 1.3 balance and it’s just about perfect, authority issues can definitely show up on the big stuff, just so much more mass swinging around that even with upsized motors the Pd authority still needs a boost. Lack of mass could be an issue, the trouble is low authority and too much authority can look similar until you BB log and see exactly what’s going on in the FC from both stick inputs and external forces. Uavtech is my go to resource, if you haven’t checked him out his page and YT channel are a good mine of tuning information.
@@Finalmile_FPV Awesome never figured out bb logging for pid tuning but im hearing more and more of it. thanks!
please share your tune
@@VogxelFPV wasn’t too far off from defaults. I usually lower all filtering cutoffs to match the lower resonance of the larger props, this frame is super noisy so you can’t push the tune as much as you’d like. I was around 1.1 on everything with filters lower substantially. Phase delay is a real problem for me on the larger stuff, 8” +.
I’ll see if I have an old log file from this and I’ll paste it in, it’s been rebuilt a few times since I filmed this.
Currently on 2812 1300kv, that widened the tuning window a lot over the 2808, much better at swinging a heavier props
@@Finalmile_FPV Do you still have the frame so you could share a betaflight screenshot or something?
do you have a build list I want to make a cruiser like that
FR7 frame from Airblade
8” arms cut by CNC madness
FR7 TPU kit from BMC 3D
Tmotor F7 HD stack
DJI air unit
True RC carbon matchstick longs X2
Mmcx to rpsma x2
BN 880 gps
Crossfire nano SE w/ immortal T (recommend upgrading to diversity)
Brother Hobby 2808 1500kv
IFlight esc wire guards x4
IFlight led kit 5pc
DJI TPU lens guard
HQ 8x4.5x3 carbons
Panasonic 50v 1000mf capacitor on main leads.
Xt90 main lead
Rotor riot kwad skidz (black)
Apex rubberized 300mm battery straps x2 (look for a better option, these separated easily at the stitching)
CNHL 4000mah 6s 70c
@@Finalmile_FPV Thanks man!
@@mikethered14 any time! I’m building a 10” version right now so hopefully I’ll have a video of that coming up
AUW?
1625 AUW with the specified CNHL 4000 6s 70c, hero 7 and ND filter.