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@@TechWithSean thanks Sean 🙏. It’s a fun toy to toss around and be irresponsible with 🤣.

@@gisall8205 you should be good to go on 4S especially since you propped down. It ran a little hot for me on 4s but I ran the factory 11x5.5. I think you’ll be more than solid on power, should do some nice crank shafts and pop tops

@ Thanks for the response buddy.

@@kmatch1 agreed, I had found a brand that used a respectable amount of solder and started using them without any issues. These boats draw a huge current continuously, I was amazed how much more stress they put in the electronics over even a high power edf. Going to larger bullet connectors from the esc to the motor helped a lot too, and I was surprised by how resilient the EC5 connector was even compared with the XT90 I usually used for high current stuff.

@@Vogxel wasn’t too far off from defaults. I usually lower all filtering cutoffs to match the lower resonance of the larger props, this frame is super noisy so you can’t push the tune as much as you’d like. I was around 1.1 on everything with filters lower substantially. Phase delay is a real problem for me on the larger stuff, 8” +. I’ll see if I have an old log file from this and I’ll paste it in, it’s been rebuilt a few times since I filmed this. Currently on 2812 1300kv, that widened the tuning window a lot over the 2808, much better at swinging a heavier props

@@Finalmile_FPV Do you still have the frame so you could share a betaflight screenshot or something?

@@danielwoehr2733 yeah I think it went under the top set. lol. 😂

@@PaulSokolov I usually run auto timing and 48khz pwm. I will say the more I ran high KV 2808 / 2806 I realized it’s really hard to tune. I’ve since gone down to 1500 kv and it’s really not any slower on the top end especially with the right prop. Also try a 4 or 3.5 pitch to reduce motor load, that seemed to smooth things out for me more than going to a lower PWM did. Hope that helps.

@@Finalmile_FPV thank you for your answer. I will try switch to 2808 1500 kv. I changed the frames and FC. Different props. No results. Time to discover the motors. I think that’s RPM problem. Some guys use 1900 kv + 6S without any issues. ( when all 4 motors has the same RPM). But my motors probably from different branches. And I can clearly feel it with my build. As higher kv as more important this RPM difference.

@@PaulSokolov your welcome, it’s hard to find a really solid frame without resonance in the 7”+ category, the long arms and heavy motors just make a lot of vibration. If you use black box log that can help a lot to see if it’s excessive noise in the frame or if one motor is spooling up and down or twitching. Also consider running a lower gyro / pid loop rate. I only run 4k/4k because the 8k refresh rate just causes the larger slower motors to twitch heat up. Hope you get it figured out 💯

@@badfourlife thank you. Yeah I tried that look back on his climb twice but the first time my momentum carried me to the moon and he was just a dot. lol. It’s hard to time but I think getting next to him and yawing him into view as the climb starts is the way to go, that way I can use roll to stay tight and the shot looks framed the whole time. I’m learning. Lol

@@danielwoehr2733 no apologies necessary, nice slow stable flight makes me look like an amazing drone pilot 🤔🤣. Gorgeous scratch build, amazing design and great in the air

@@johnscovel3170 your not a fan of the 12% throttle beeper and LVC alarm?

@@flywithmikefromchicago the motor did get hot running it for extended full throttle runs but just cruising around with the occasional full power blast it did fine even in Texas heat. A lot of the scream is prop noise, that prop has a wide tip almost bull nose

Im using 4s with the stock esc and haven’t had a problem

@@SlowFlyer85 thank you 🙏. It handles 4S really well, the esc and battery leads get hot if you really stay on the throttle but 4-7 second full power runs are no problem.

@@Finalmile_FPV 👍👍

@@patrickhoyle8357 I had the Arrows edge 540 but gave it to my neighbor, I almost think it flys better than the extra 🤣. I’ll try the nose weight this weekend, mine is still a touch tail heavy but it’s pretty close to neutral now. Once I go over about 35% expo it starts to feel funny to me at mid stick, this thing is pretty twitchy so I can definitely understand going that high if it doesn’t bother you.

@@ratedBforBeau yes, 1604 and I10 on the east side of SA

I'm from the floresville field. I've been wanting to check this one out.​@@Finalmile_FPV

@@BoBoBrappins I destroyed 3 of the 5 yowoo 6s 6000s due to heat / over discharge. I wish the LVC from the factory was 3.3-3.6 instead of the 3.0 it’s set at

@@Finalmile_FPV I have the v1 havent had any issues with the LVC luckily

Im new to boats so didnt realize what i was seeing was wrong. My SW36 came from the factory with the stock prop for a Blackjack 42. First 6s pack wasnt so bad, i was going easy, trying to trim the boat out. Second pack i gave her the beans, when i brought it in to check temps the pack was swelling and getting ready to pop. The esc and motor were fine, i upgraded cooling before i ran it but wires and batteries got so hot, it partially de-soldered an xt90

@@mikek4288 whoa! That’s a huge mistake on Horizon shipping it with the wrong prop. It’s crazy how small of a prop difference will yield huge changes in temps and performance.

@@danielwoehr2733 I learned from the best when it comes to on board cams 🫵💯

@@jackalopefpv1708 thank you 🙏 yeah it really does, and that’s in super view 🤣. Sometimes I think it’s a function of hyper smooth, when I actually have an FPV cam in there it doesn’t look like that. Also having the dash in view really trips me out, flying the quad it’s just air and no reference point so I’m never feeling the dives, but this 👀👀👀🤣🤣🤣🤣.

Yeah I was struggling with combining the 9:16 FPV footage with the 16:9 hat cam. This was the best solution I could think of.

Oh I agree, I can usually pitch down slightly and the increase in rpm gives me the feel I want. This being a relatively large stator and low KV the increase in response and drop in top end wasn’t a good trade off. If it wasn’t for ground clearance I’d have gone with a 14x4 and been happy, but I’ll probably go back to the 13x6

Yeah it is heavy, my neighbor has some Flex stuff, a cap I believe and it does fly amazing. I pounced on a good FB deal but I don’t think it’s worth the $429 or whatever horizon sells it for.

Thank you! I’m still learning the 3D side of flying, this thing still scares me a bit… not as easy as the profile foamies

The Pitts was def fragile, I agree the foam is thin and I hate linear servos but they’re are kind of a blast albeit an overpriced blast 🤣

I find the opposite, most of them are very durable because they're so light usually nothing happens in a crash. Just have to be sure to cut the throttle when going down.

That thing has a surprisingly good roll rate. 🤔🤣

Hope you doing mind being the face of the video 🫵🤣. It was, i wonder how many planes we could get up at one time 🤔

Indeed!

It as often as I used to, new job has me pretty busy. I try and make it out on Saturdays when the crew goes, other than that usually Tuesday during the day. Are you local SA?

Close to default pids, backed off D a bit if I remember correctly (FR frames aren’t the cleanest noise profile)

@@Finalmile_FPV i think its pretty good. Im sbout to build a aos ul 10 inch. Heard alot of positive feedback about it.

@@fpvkagge yeah I’m a fan of the AOS stuff, you can’t argue with the BB logs of those frames. Especially going past the 6”-7” having a clean stiff frame just makes life so much simpler 🤣. I ended up re building this with 2812s, fried an esc and it’s back in my closet for now

@@Finalmile_FPV yea ive fried alot esc over time. Considering single esc's ok my 10 inch frame.

I’m a huge fan of the 8” platform too, I think it’s the best of all worlds. If I’m doing something that requires more aggressive maneuvering (some chase work) I’ll go down to a higher KV 7” setup at the expense of flight time. What’s your experience on 9” stuff? I ran 9” props on my XL10 for a bit and liked it, I was seriously considering a merica 9” or similar for the higher cruising speed and endurance but if it’s not a huge difference from an 8” I won’t bother. 10” was too heavy and a huge pain to tune, motors to heavy and arms too long to go for an ultra light LR setup at that prop size in my opinion. I do really miss my FRH 6” heavy speedster on 2506 1850kv, something about the weight and deadcat made low fast flying and long sustained lines just magic over anything else I’ve ever flown. I need to order so 8” props so I’ll take a look at the 8060, using HQ 8x5 bi blades on my floss 8” right now after I exploded a few of the 8040 cinnelifter tri blades, that 2812 seemed to apply too much torque too quickly and they would shatter. So yeah, 8” on those 2812 between 1100-1300 kv on an ultralight frame, 6000-8000 mah 6s high quality lion (def no 18650) I think is the best option for LR in my experience, I need to get back to flying LR more often again.

@@Finalmile_FPV If you have problems tuning big quads, my only advice I can give you is to use really solid frames. I got the geprc pulsar 11 frame. Freakin heavy, but so solid, it just runs on stock betaflight. Also dont use too small and too high kv motors. A small motor with too high kv just struggles to spin the bigger props. Basically I built the pulsar 11 with 3215 motors and ran it on 11 and 10 inch props. It flys well. No issues. Only It's slow and inefficient. I had those 3215 motors custom made and tested on the bench. The results were the most efficient I've ever seen. 5kg of max thrust. But in real air testing the efficiency was really not good. Top speed was slow, compared to my other quads. I'm sure it can lift heavy loads. Also I could increase flight time alot, by adding 2kg of batteries instead of 800g like I prefer. So I tried 10" props on it. A little more flight time, but nothing significant. Next I built a 9" and tried several props. It was much faster than my pulsar build. Also much more efficient. After trying 9 inch props, I just put on 8" props. The funny thing is, it got a bit faster and more responsive. I tried 3110 motors and changed them to 2812 motors, mainly because I wanted a little more kv and the motors were cheap. For fast long flights, I tried 5" and 6". Six helps a little already for carrying larger batteries and catching dives better. But the magic starts at 7". My 7" is the one to beat. Those new gemfan 7050 are a gamechanger for me. So much more speed and freestyle'able too. But my 7" build has a short apex frame and is rather light for freestyle and doesn't fit big batteries and gopro. So that 9" frame with those 8060 props is my go to LR build right now. It still fits im my backpack without props. An other reason I disliked the 11" as well. So big to transport. Not for hiking in the mountains and going for a LR cruise. My 9" frame is an amax F9DC frame. Short wheelbase with 363mm for a 9". 8mm arms and super solid. Also works on stock betaflight. As much as UAVTECH says use 24khz, I tried it and 48khz just works better. It eliminated the jello. All my builds 7 inch and bigger are on 8S by the way. Basically just use 8S compatible electronics and motors with 200kv less than usual on 6s. I make and use 8s 21700 packs. Sometimes two parallel for long range on the 8 inch upwards. Bi blades are a pain. Just use tri blades if bi dont work nice.

@@chrisbee5481 I bet 8s really makes a difference spreading the load out on lion cells 💪, I can totally agree with the low KV big stator advice… for awhile I was chasing max efficiency trying to run over propped on large light frames and it just became an exercise in futility. Plus the more I ran lower KV on larger stators the more I understood the waste excess KV brings into the system PWM seems to vary by frame for me, tried running variable for a while with the new BLHeli firmware and had some mixed results, most of my freestyle builds run 48khz and I’ve even lowered my pidloop and gyro down to 4k 4k, especially on the bigger stuff since the motor and prop can respond that fast anyway it just ended up creating unnecessary noise and changes in motor rpm chasing a response the system could never mechanically achieve. I think my 7” remix is my favorite right now, it’s on a 5 year old flight controller so I think I’m going to tear down the 3 of them I have and rebuild with newer components, may grab some 03 air units for the flyability at low mbps, being able to fly at 2-4 mbps would be amazing compared to the 12-15 mbps Roblox picture I’m used to pushing the limits 😆

I biffed it awhile back and destroyed it lol. But I will say after 15-20 flights everything was holding up fine. Some noticeable heat in the front end after a serious throttling but nothing that would alarm me. Surprisingly not a lot of heat in the connectors or battery leads, less even than the stock eflite extra 300. Might buy another, it just flys so light compared to other 3D foamies in this class

I bet that thing is a blast!! I was probably running 25-30% more throttle in the F15 just to keep up with Alwin’s stock Stinger. You got videos of yours in action? I’ve come to love these over powered mid- small edfs, any suggestions for other similar stuff in this class?

@@Finalmile_FPV Speaking of power...how is the Eflite F-15 for power? Reason for asking is in RealFlight if seems just adequate. I've got other 50mm & 64mm EDF chucker's that are just adequate and it becomes a real game of energy management. My two current standbys are the 70mm Habu SS and 80mm AvantiS, but they require heavy 6S batteries. That's kind of why I Frankenstein'ed the Stinger...to make something that I couldn't buy. 😉 BTW...stay away from the SR-71. Great looking plane, but absolutely no fun to fly. 😔

@@gmorphan thanks for the heads up, I like the scale / exotic offerings so that and the twin 40mm F22 from motion were on my short list. lol To me it’s got more than enough, I can go from high alpha walking pace to almost vertical climb outs on full power (4s 2200). It’s quick wide open but not an absolute rocket. I’ll have to give it a fly in real flight and let you know how close it feels, but to me it’s got more than enough to get me out of any dumb decisions / oh shit moments. I got mine second hand so it was an easy choice, I’m not sure (as much as I like it) that it’s worth the $269 price new. I did do a few other videos with it, some slow / mixed flying that might give you a better idea of its power and responsiveness. It high alphas amazing and can fly circuits like that despite no rudder.

2200 4S on this boat is wayyyy too small. In general that low of a capacity will draw down too much under load to be useful. On a smaller boat running 4S you’d probably want to be 2500-3000 kv with the right prop to get a good top end, but with high KV comes a lot of waste through the high amperage it’s going to draw.

@@Finalmile_FPV thank you sir, the good answer

I wouldn’t advise it for an inexperienced pilot. A good high wing bush plane or trainer would be a better choice

Thanks and many Greetings from Germany@@Finalmile_FPV