I laid down concrete pavers at my parent’s house in 2009. It was for an extension on either side, and my dad wanted to be able to park and drive medium duty vehicles on it. We ended up with a 12-14” aggregate base, with 3 separate layers of geo-grid in between. It’s been 9 years and had tons and tons and tons of trucks, loaded dump trailers, equipment, etc on them. Literally no settlement. We’re in MD and it’s lasted through many harsh winters. NO salt was ever used on it though.
As an asphalt contractor and Sealcoater you can get a long life out of a asphalt driveway with proper maintenance. First when your going to get your driveway paved make sure they put at least 4 inches or gravel down and get it compacted. Then what most people don’t know is that company’s are only putting down top coat at 2-3 inches instead of putting a binder down at 1.5 inches and then top down at 1.5 inches so you get three inches total. I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve paved a driveway or did patch work and find out there’s not only just top coat down but it’s only a inch thick. When your a home owner I would recommend asking the contractor to but road binder down instead of driveway binder because it’s a a lot stronger. And after the paving is done in 1-2 years you should Sealcoat your driveway, not with the stuff you can buy st home depo either you want a pro. And you want to be careful who you hire you want a company who uses a sand slurry mix. It’s the best to reguvinate the oils in the asphalt and you want to find a good company and learn about what they use for material ask them for a pamflit the plant hands them out for free! You also want to watch out for some company’s who will end up watering there material down. So do your research first. And after you get your driveway seal coated it should last 5+ years before it has to be re sealed again do not do it every year it will clog the pours on the asphalt and make it crack.
Whats your experience with heated asphalt driveways? Is it worth it if it prevents water in cracks freezing and expanding the crack? My current driveway is asphalt and desperately needs torn out and redone....just haven't decided on asphalt or concrete...
Hi Dylon. So one of the contractors told me he can pave over the current asphalt because it's already settled. The other contractors told me it has to be dug up. Who's telling the truth?
I couldn't ask for more. This is a great, self explanatory video about the different types of surfaces that you can put on your driveway. Very well done sir.
I was involved In asphalt paving for 30+ years. I've sealed it, cracked filled it, patched it, removed it , Installed it , hauled it and loaded it out BIG TIME ( all of the above) . When I put my asphalt drive way in I kinda went over board. I put probably 2 feet of stone in the driveway lol. Let it sit in stone for about 2 years then installed it in 2 lifts. 1 and a half binder / inch and a half surface lol. OK it was a little over kill, it was still there after 35 years, starting to fail a bit but still solid. In my world " black is beautiful"
The National Asphalt Pavement Association recommends 6" of base for most driveways and 8" when heavier vehicles are expected. (Compact the subsoil, lay 3-4" of base, compact the base, lay another 3-4" of base, compact the base again) That doesn't sound too impressive when considering the 12+ inches that other people have mentioned. Is 6" of base and 3" of asphalt adequate like they recommend? Or instead, are they advocating for their own job security for when the driveway needs to be replaced sooner rather than later?
We had pavers fitted because we trusted the person giving the advice and explaining the pro and cons to them, much like you have explained and those pavers still look great and any dipping over time has been lifted filled and levelled.
As a Belgium farmer I would choose asfalt then concrete and last pavers. Because when the subsoil drops asfalt gently follows without breaking (to some degree) concrete creates holes underneath and when they are big enough the concrete gets destroyed. Pavers are just not strong enough for me. But in al cases thicker is better just like Stanley said and don't forget about the quality
I appreciate you saying this about asphalt. I see neighbor's drives lifting at the joints and being broken at the edges. All the while, my asphalt driveway has developed character over the years. Also, a minor oil leak is less unsightly on asphalt than it is on concrete.
@@Daaaaaaavid the stones themselves are indeed very durable but they don's seal the subsoil completely, when a couple of stones sink they create a puddle where the water can collect and softens the subsoil thus expanding the problem.
Thanks for such a concise and objective overview. Your video strikes the perfect balance of authoritative delivery without bluster, inspires confidence based on your obvious experience, and keeps things moving visually and conceptually without going too fast. I've had great luck with a stamped concrete driveway, but only because my contractor/friend advised me to spend the extra for what must be a 6-inch pour with lots of rebar--no cracks (other than the cut ones) after ten years! However, I have a long driveway and am considering replacing the asphalt stretch with pavers. Thanks for the tips on how to make it last better.
DM, the "bottom line" for engineering a driveway - like any road - is "base " ! Driveways and hard patios - like any travel way - fails from the " bottom up " ! Your video is a most cogent and worthwhile examination of the issues !
Wow! I greatly appreciate you posting this, as the wife and I are currently trying to figure which way to go. Whatever we choose, we're gonna see about putting down a thicker base layer for sure!
As a fourth alternative, especially for people who have their own machines, gravel makes an excellent road surface. Every ten years we get some more and regrade with the backhoe. No cracks, no sealing, no settling, but you have to like gravel. I've lived with the driveway my entire life, so it's not a big deal but for a more urban area a hard surface would be better.
Thank you so much for your video. It has helped me make the decision to use pavers to replace my old, tired, worn asphalt driveway. It's great to have expert advice.
In my years as a mason, landscaper, etc....I have done several paver driveways (patios and walkways too)...I have poured many driveways...and now I work for myself, sealcoating asphalt driveways (and handyman services). My landscaping is boulder walls...my patio/firepit and walkways are stone...and my driveway is gravel. When I die...they will cart me out of here via my gravel driveway.
I have a large amount of water where the swale goes from dirt/gravel up to my asphalt. This has caused sinkage of the ground underneath (since water can get under). When I re-do the driveway, I'd like to add drainage so that water from this dirt/gravel gets quickly directed to the other side of the driveway. What type of driveway is best for this, to stay flat, and to allow water to run through it? Can I get like 1 or 2 surface drains with perhaps metal grates to span the width of the driveway to help?
Stan, just a side note for pavers. Some pacers can be turned over but most are one sided. How ever they still are the easiest to repair if cracked. When I do a paver project, I always leave extra pavers for that reason.
I live in the Chicago, Illinois region (land of winter freezing & sub zero temps) and want to replace an asphalt driveway with concrete. (Asphalt driveway is 2 years old when home was built). So let me get this straight; 8" base, wire & 6" pour. Thank you for the heads up (video & comments) on that. Now, I want a black driveway. I understand in my climate (winters) it's recommended to use "iron oxide black" and NOT "carbon black" due to air / water entainment. (The darkness of the black tint isn't a major issue for me). Have an expert opinion?
My unsealed asphalt driveway is 40 years old and the only crack is from a shallow rooted tree that the previous owner had planet next to it. Aside from sinking an inch and a half against the garage slab, I've got no reason to do anything with it for another decade. If it does get replaced, I'll just have them scrape it up into the new mix, lay it a bit thicker and leave it unsealed again. For comparison, the house on my right was religious with the tar and had to resurface once and replace once in 35 years; the house on the left sealed every other year and ended up replacing after 35 years.
thank you for this information. a good source of asphalt information has been lacking on RUclips for quite some time! I jumped in to the sealcoating/crack filling business 1.5 years ago without any prior knowledge or experience. I have had some success but am always hungry for more knowledge. please keep it up!!
Here in Alaska the muni cross section for driveway is 18" of gravel(3" minus/pit run), 2" leveling course(D1 or RAP) and 2" of asphalt, or 18" gravel and 6" concrete on anything that will be driven on. I personally always put geotextile woven fabric under all my excavations too! Makes for a good driveway! I never get just putting 4"-6" of sub base....just won't hold up here...
Others are that in our state concrete raises the property taxes where the other 2 don`t, pavers look good and last good if they never get salted for the snow. Then asphalt it raises the air temp around the area year round. My father extended his drive around the house into the new back yard garage well after that the A/C would no longer cool the house sufficiently. Just a few things to look at.
Depends on water table, sub grade, compaction of soil is huge. Also what is driving on the on it. Heavy trucks concrete. Heavy vehicles can sink on asphalt on hot summer days.
Our condominium association went crazy on a very expensive paving system for our short main drive almost 25 years ago. It was chosen with long term durability. I forgot what underlay came first the sand or the crushed gravel but geomat were laid between them. Then the really expensive part was laid in, 6 inches of reinforced concrete. After the concrete cured a very thin dusting of sand was applied before cobblestones, asphalt or finish concrete was applied. This top pavement is called the ware layer and is expected to be replaced when salt damage or other damage occurs with less effort. The driveway had to be cut through with heavy concrete cutters on week for emergency access to a water main break but otherwise the rest of the driveway is quite even and pleasant to use. 25 years later the condo association is quite happy with this expensive paving system.
We did our drivway im pavers and it's perfect eight years later. We have many neighbors with blacktop driveways: - You can't walk barefoot on blacktop in the summer - too hot - You can't park a motorcycle or bicycle on blacktop because the kickstand will make a hole - Every two years they have to reseal the driveway. This means: 1. They have to either pay someone to do the whole job or DIY and still spend money on material 2. They lose the use of the driveway for at least a day
Hello, great video, Thank you. Re base thickness, do you mean before or after compacting? Which hard surface is best for South Florida so that's heat and humidity - also near a lake so not sure if salt is a factor? Current drive is asphalt (old house) with the crocodile cracks everywhere...
I live in Tennessee and wonder is an aggregate driveway better than concrete or asphalt? I have a 90 ft long driveway with gravel on it on a 20 degree slope.
surprised you didnt mention rebar in concrete. i find that usually keeps cracks from forming. i also split my driveway into 4 sections with a row of brick for separation
Pavers can be a pain in the arse to maintain. The joints will be filled with polymeric sand, which is very tricky to work with even for professionals and tend to washout a little every time there's a hard rain. It can also be very expensive to install depending on how well the base will be prepared.
Great video. I am having my driveway done this summer. I excavated 12" down and back filled with 3/4-0 mix. I packed down and left to sit one year. Now comes the asphalt. This will be applied after the area is re compacted and 2" of compressed asphalt will sit on top. Hope it holds together.
SS1 emulsified tack oil works great for a quick repair on your asphalt surfaces, such as skin patching, or saw cutting with a diamond blade, correcting any base issues and then re-paving the problem area. Lots of paving companies are happy to pick up this work as filler between big jobs where there base isn't ready. You apply the oil, hit it with a tiger torch to prime it, add the new hot mix over it and compact for finish. Or hitting you're existing asphalt with a tiger torch will heat up the surface to make it pliable and problems can be corrected, reasonably easily, with an asphalt lute (rake), plate tamper, and asphalt sprayer (chemical sprayer from any hardware store). All that said the corrected area will take on a new color and stand out so seal coating should also be considered after the repairs are completed for a uniform finish. Re-surfacing is usually after 15-25 years for a properly finished job. If you need re-surfacing after 3 years, the paving contractors in your area are not doing their job properly. For example, not excavating the sub base far enough, not excavating down to clay, if clay can't be found under 2 feet of excavation, not introducing geogrid (trampoline like fabric) with at least 6" of structure (3/4 road crush on top - fractured on 3 faces for ideal compaction - or soil cement), not introducing water to the gravel during the compaction process for ideal densities and maximizing load capacity of that base. I'm talking about a 4 season climate. If you guys are only getting 3 years out of your asphalt in Michigan I might just come down there and set up shop! That's crazy!
Good video. Last year I did a bit of 'science' study when looking at concrete as a possibility for my driveway. I've still not moved forward on it yet, but I'm lifting my research from a Word file FYI, because it compliments your own findings about salt and concrete risks: >>> Concrete has high strength when it is compressed, or 'squeezed'. However, it is extremely weak when it is subjected to tension, or 'pulled'. Salt can take advantage of this weakness. Believe it or not, while concrete appears to be a very dense material, it is in fact quite like a blotter. It can and does absorb water. You can actually see this happen on a hot summer day. Sprinkle some water on your sidewalk or driveway and look very closely. You can actually see the water penetrate the surface of the concrete. When you spread rock salt on your concrete to melt snow and ice, the salt dissolves the snow and makes a salt water mush. The melting action of the salt allows water to enter the concrete. If the temperature then drops and the water freezes, the growing ice crystals can blast apart the concrete. Salt is also hygroscopic. It attracts water. It can cause concrete to become more saturated with water than it would otherwise. The presence of this extra water in freezing conditions can spell trouble. The volume of water increases by 9 percent when it freezes within the concrete matrix. The pressure of the growing ice crystals can cause the surface of the concrete to fail. It usually spalls off.
I'd like to see a similar video on an even wider variety of driveway options, including eco ones like previous pavers, "grass-cells," gravel, dirt, ...
With a 6 inch base material on a paver outdoor patio can it support the weight of 8ft pool table without any additional concrete support for the legs, pool table weights approx. 785lbs?.... any remarks will help, thanks
Great video! I learned a lot. I already have a partial paved driveway and I'm eventually going to get the rest paved as the weeds/grass popping up in the stones of my driveway is driving my OCD crazy!
You forgot to mention rebar, rebar will add far more strength to your concrete driveway than a thicker base or pour, though those are definetely helpful as well, just don't ever forget to put rebar in at a 3ft grid minimum.
Stamped concrete will usually have a sealer on it as well making it slippery when wet. It doesn't seem to fair well if shoveling snow with a metal shovel either.
In Australia we typically don't use asphalt mostly we use concrete but yes always get a good base for it and use reinforcement mesh it helps stop alot of flexing and cracing in the concrete and whenever you join against and existing pour/hard rock like surface pin/dowel it to it in my area so many didn't pin and dowel their driveways paths to their homes and they pop up and make nasty trip hazzards
How do you POP out interlocking pavers to turn them over and reinstall... lol Dont they have a lip to hold them in place? Didnt see any of your videos showing how to do this... Link please?
Are pavers as well suited for a “ribbon” driveway? Grass in the middle. I’ve been considering this for some time but didn’t know how well the edges would hold up knowing people may drive off the edges.
We use up to 12 inches of recycled asphalt product R A P In wet areas we place 3 inch minis then compact with bobcat tires and roller then add one inch minis R A P to grade then 3/4 inch base asphalt then 3/8 inch top asphalt 330 degrees F roal it and compact it we make it like a Mass. HIGHWAY SCOTT FROM NH .
Fantastic informative video sir.. I have a steep driveway in the north east , would it be okay to have a paver driveway instead of asphalt ? And if so is there a recommendation on any of the sub materials ? And or procedures recommended? Thanks 🙏👍👍👍👍👍
Couple of points about concrete: 1 - All concrete shrinks when curing, just like the mud in a puddle cracks and curls in a summer sun. A finisher's job is to control how fast the curing happens and providing for joints to direct the cracking to specific places. Rebar, wire mesh, fibermesh, not pouring in heat/wind/low humidity and different chemicals can assist in minimizing shrinkage and subsequent cracking, spalling, etc. Whether mechanical jointing or diamond saw cutting is used, it has to be the proper depth and location. Water/cement ratio is important. Concrete thickness doesn't necessarily deter cracking. 2 - To a large degree, especially in severe freeze/thaw areas, subgrade prep is top dog in assuring long term slab integrity. Adequate washed rock drainage directly underneath the slab, along with compacted subgrade beneath that provides for maximum resistance to frost heaving from expandable clays and subsurface water. Rebar in impact areas or soft loamy subgrades helps. Integral piers in the slab can help extremely soft areas. 3 - Salt, de-icer, magnesium chloride, etc. kills concrete. Period. 4 - Over-tooling when finishing causes much of the surface cracking, along with adverse weather. Pour it and get the initial finish on, then let it bleed and stay off until it's time for the kneeboards. Don't throw water on the surface, and don't rub on the edges for something to do while it sets up. Save your energy to hit it when the time is right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking job. /24 years in the biz, batching, hauling and finishing.
Jay Phillips Pretty close description there. I agree about letting it air, I try to not close it up too soon with a fresno too when I can afford to. I live in Nevada, summers can get you and if the heat don't the wind will. We use con film to help close up with the bullfloat when we need to. I don't like water on the top either, a light fog won't kill it if used evenly and in moderation when no con film is available, but half the time some idiot will spray it all over like fucking crazy (I work with a few sometimes like that). But edges and joints are number one and should be laid down right away, unless you're using boards and a straight edge to tool the joints you can keep em' straight with walking tools if you get them in time. But all edges should be floated flat & opened up even if you trowel right back over them, they need to be opened up so you don't fight em'. Personally , I don't use knee boards anymore unless I have to, as long as I can reach it with a tricky trowel that I flat trowel with, a 5x20'' square end trowel, I just rounded out the corners on it some. I trowel all wall lines with my 5x24'' before we rod it, then stay away from it with walking tools. /40 yrs. just finishing. After x amount of years you start to find out that it don't always have to be hard, if you haven't yet you will (and you can still do nice work).
I have a pipe leaking 740 gpd, and the area is under my driveway. I'm asking you, please tell me who I should contact and fix this, and how much is a reasonable cost in the pacific northwest.
Jay Phillips your pretty spot on. Of my driveway I've got a 6" pour and metal mesh. It's a California style so it's cracked but in the gaps provided. The metal mesh has kept it from moving anywhere. We only have one ever small crack about 6' on the corner of the driveway. Our driveway is sealed and has no issues. Is over 13 or so years old. Just needs a good power wash every so often.
Very helpful video. I just purchased a home downtown and Im in the middle of you know....getting the city to look and approve whatever I want to do. That 8" base material is key! now I know what to say when I call somebody to do the job. Deeper base, less cracking. right?
So if I break up my asphalt driveway can I use that crushed asphalt as part of the base? I'll definitely dig deeper because I don't know whats under my driveway but it looks sooo sad lol. Probably do concrete for my driveway but I really want to do some paver surface in my backyard for grilling or a firepit. We were also considering an above ground pool down the road. Is there anything special we should do to the surface to prevent it from settling?
Pavers are also subject to the same deterioration as poured concrete but can be replaced separately, buy extras upfront you will need them. Also even with the best installations the side pavers will move away from the field.
Hi Stanley! Thanks for the video. It was very informative! My question is, I live in the Mid West were we get lots of snow and below freezing temps in the Winter. Since using salt is inevitable and since pavers are, I assume, made out of a concrete like material, won't the salt eat at it just as it would a concrete driveway? Thanks again for the video!
My neighbors stamped concrete surface is pitting and eroding from the glossy surface. Rocksalt used in winter did that. I told him to use Calcium Chloride for de-icing instead.
Nice job on a great video! I'm looking to replace a concrete driveway that has cracks all over, due mostly to settling, and nearby tree roots. I am thinking of using pavers but I wanted to ask you the pros and cons of the different types. Have you heard of the composite pavers made from recycled tires? They're lightweight, and they are made to handle the weight of cars/trucks, etc., but I'm sure there are other advantages/disadvantages compared to bricks or concrete pavers. Thoughts?
I haven't heard of them- is their any long term tests out there. That is really the indicator if they will hold up. I don't believe "claims" unless I see they have lasted in a real application for many years.
I'm curious what you would think of a double layer of pavers for long term dependability. I know the cost would increase, but that might be mitigated by using recycled pavers for the lower layer, since they won't be seen anyway. Would something like this be useful for decreasing problems with sinking and settling, or would it just be so cost prohibitive as to not be worth it in the long run?
Thermal expansion is probably the number one reason. As the top layer heat up, temperature differential between the top layer and bottom layer causes stress since bottom layer is colder and held by internal steel reinforcement.
also with stamped concrete cracking, you still have to saw in the joints just like you would a normal driveway or patio. but the problem with that is contractors are cheap and don't cut down enough for it to be a good control joint, they try to save their blades by just cut 1/4 " and making the control joints way too spread out when it should be 3/4"-1" deep at least. and every 8ft in every direction.
Need some advice for my driveway how can I send a pic to you of how it looks ....I live in the Caribbean island Antigua I have an issue with water flowing into my yard ..Thanks in advance
It really is the best option. I usually pour a concrete slab I can use to back up a car and then leave the rest gravel. Make a border with concrete or brick is you want it to look fancier.
Gravel isn’t ideal if you have delivery drivers drive up your driveway. Our vans weigh 10-20k pounds. Very heavy and easily get stuck on non solid surfaces. Complete nightmare to deliver to houses with mile long dirt driveways.
Nice video with lots of great information. My question my not pertain but is somewhat related. I have a concrete driveway with a topcoat of asphalt. My driveway slopes towards the garage. I am installing a recessed trench gutter drain in front of garage doors. It would be more work but would like to fill in with concrete around trench but not to the top. I would like to lay in pavers on top of new concrete surrounding trench drain and make level with asphalt for a paver border around trench. Is this a bad idea or feasable without other moisture issues? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, KC
My house was a flip and the driveway is a mess now. Big ruts where the tires go. After some of it chipped away I realized they did about 2 inches each layer.. Is it a terrible idea to just fill in the dips with patch?
Just the video i was looking for!!! anyone who has done pavers or aggregate concrete, do they hold harsh cold/heat weather? I live in toronto, i have a lot of driveways here that have these and seems like its, not a problem but just wanted to see what others think.
If you keep your water to cement ratio as low as possible, you will have less shrinkage. Using a good curing compound will also help to minimize rapid evaporation upon initial setup. Finally if you can seal the surface, it will help to keep the concrete looking good.
My experience is always deepen the base material as much as possible within reason. It amazes me people think 4" is realistic. It's realistic for about 2 years.
I know these are just driveways, but at 4” you need a layer of rebar and contraction joints to stop the cracks from temperature and shrinkage if you really want your driveway to last long. Going thicker than 4” I cannot see how you get away with no rebar and expect the concrete not to eventually crack. I think people don’t want to spend the extra money on rebar, just pour my driveway and forget it, but knowing the material properties of concrete no way you will get away with no cracks eventually. Rebar and contraction joints just help mitigate them.
Crack sealing for asphalt and concrete hands down is the best contract job you can get. You can rent a crack sealer for about $300 a day buy about $500 of material, two man crew can accomplish a $5,000 job in just 1 day. Best part of crack sealing is you need no tools besides the machine. I would of never been able to break the 6 figure profit mark without adding crack sealing to my services.
I can't believe people throw their money around like that. My 3,200 sq. ft. driveway is being done (6" base material and 3" of asphalt) for not much more than that. I'd either do the crack sealing myself, or I'd wait for the entire driveway to fail and then replace it.
I've got oil stains in a few of our driveway pavers. I've tried to remove the stains but nothing works. Is it difficult to pop out pavers since they're tamped in? Any product recommendation for sealing the pavers?
make sure you clear seal every couple ov years. if they towel the color in it will wear out and it will look crappy. the trick is diy every few years, geta disposable roler and pole a can ov sealer and solvent, thin the 1st coat then straight on the second coat. wil save you bucks down the track, a 300buck sprayer is not worth it unless you know someone that you can lend you one.
BaberJacks nobody mags in the color anymore. everyone throws the bags of color right into the mixer and has the driver spin the drum for a while when bringing it to the slump they want.
yeh but to thoes that have existing stamped, usually they throw the color in @the plant, the release agent may be another color and thus you have 2 color, best to seal so to get best results
Some good info.. have an asphalt driveway I need to replace.. was thinking about heating it along with the sidewalk and walk way up to the front door. Concrete
If you ask 100 people 50 will say poured (brush or squeegee) and 50 will say spray. spray looks a hell of a lot nicer. Brushed and squeegee leaves a lot of lines and brush marks. For sealing reasons either one works really well. Remember you want to wear the sealer off not your driveway. We have been in the paving and asphalt maintenance business for 25 years. Also only seal it when the previous sealer is worn, do not build up to much sealer on it.
I really want to move to where all of these guys are having work done. I'm an asphalt paving contractor. paved thousands of driveways. I live in an area that we get lots of snow, and the weather is usually not sunny but for about 3 months out of the year. Proper way to lay asphalt is to have a proper base first. The base needs to include at least 12 in of pit run, which is very large Rock and gravel mixed basically virgin gravel out of the ground. Graded and compacted to the height and level that you want your driveway to be. Next you need 2 to 3 in of 3/4 crushed gravel to reach your final grade. It then needs to be sprayed with alot of water and compacted until it feels like concrete to walk on. This is the only way to get a proper base and not have to worry about the material that is being laid on top of it, whether it's asphalt concrete or pavers. I noticed cracks in all of the driveways that you showed your video. If you don't want cracks then make sure that you got a proper base and by base I don't mean small 3/4 inch Rock 12 in thick. that doesn't work. Small crushed rock is not a good base material it moves around when you drive on it and never gets the compaction that you need you need big rock 10 inch plus with binder soil mixed with it. After all your prep work is done and you have the proper grade then you're ready to lay asphalt on top of it. A 3in compacted asphalt Mat is very desirable but 2, 2inch lifts is even better. There is absolutely no reason to seal coat your new driveway for the first 12 months because asphalt doesn't cure for 12 months and sealcoating you will not do any good. After 12 months then you need to apply a seal coat. The average cost is about $0.20 a square foot and should be applied every third year. If you do end up with some cracks in your driveway the cracks need to be filled with hot rubberized crack filler. It needs to be applied to fill in the cracks to the height of the asphalt it might take two or three passes to get it to the right height. I have driveways that are 15 + years old that have very few cracks in them and still looks like new. If the cracks are filled immediately and not allowed to sit with moisture and anything else that can get in them they won't expand can you drive will still look new 20 years later. There is no doubt in the driveways that I laid today will still be there 30 years later and look good. Love you Work Stan, I enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing!!!!
Alot of left out information concerning an asphalt driveway , an asphalt driveway that's paved over a rock hard non moving base will last 30 years without cracking as long as you apply a thin coat of non rubberized pure oil base asphalt sealer ,not the clay based asphalt emulsions sold at home Depot & Lowe's , a 5 inch asphalt finished thickness will Outlast concrete when laid over the same non sagging base ,also the depth and type of base material depends on what conditions are found under the top soil or old driveway ,after the existing soil base is compacted if any movement of the soil is seen when the compactor is rolling over it is when you chose the base materials and thickness ,in a deep snotty clay base you should allow the existing base to sun dry for 30 to 60 days before adding base stabilizing materials like 60/40 ,crushed concrete or limestone ,if you started with a squishy base then you want to mix in a few tons of Portland cement to the existing Earth and compact it before adding a layer of crushed limestone and allow the limestone to sit another 30 days before paving ,on the day of paving have the contractor put down and compact a layer of 60/40 road mix or asphalt millings & compact it before paving , make sure you order a 5 to 6 inch finished depth that's installed in 2 separately compacted layers instead of the single pour 3 inch depth standard ,once paved make sure any gaps between the paving & grass are immediatly filled in with Earth & grass seed before compacting ,stay off the driveway for another week or 2 and you can expect a double wide 2 car asphalt driveway to last you every bit of 20 years without developing a single crack ,if your new asphalt drive dosent crack within the 1st year you know you have a rock hard base that won't sag and you apply petroleum based asphalt sealer at the 1 year mark using a squgee coat just thick enough to fill in the semi pourous asphalt paving ,don't ever use rubberized sealers or water based emulsions because both will peel or flake off unlike a petroleum based sealer that binds with the petroleum based asphalt paving ,you should reseal your asphalt driveway every 12 months applying the thinnest coat possible to cover last year's sealer ,not every 3 years , if you can wait for your new driveway to be completed for 3 to 4 months and follow the base layer install outlined you can expect a 20 to 30 year crack free driveway that looks new every 12 months due to you resealing the asphalt and replacing the petroleum in the asphalt by using only petroleum based sealers , I own over 60 rental homes in middle to upper middle class areas with all types of driveways ,including brick pavers & every drive I replaced over the last 42 years has been asphalt using the standards created for America's expressways & only 1 drive has cracked due to a renter having a gas leaking truck that degraded the asphalt ,I'm also a licensed contractor with a Journeyman card in waterproofing that covers parking lots ,parking ramps ,commercial roofing ,below grade waterproofing,road building , exterior wall waterproofing of brick cement and all woods,bridge waterproofing as well as residential driveways so I'm not talking out of my ass .
Stanley ....I'm tired of dealing with my back yard weeds and stuff would you recommend asphalt for an entire back yard about 1200sq ft Really can't afford pavers or concrete
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I laid down concrete pavers at my parent’s house in 2009. It was for an extension on either side, and my dad wanted to be able to park and drive medium duty vehicles on it. We ended up with a 12-14” aggregate base, with 3 separate layers of geo-grid in between. It’s been 9 years and had tons and tons and tons of trucks, loaded dump trailers, equipment, etc on them. Literally no settlement. We’re in MD and it’s lasted through many harsh winters. NO salt was ever used on it though.
As an asphalt contractor and Sealcoater you can get a long life out of a asphalt driveway with proper maintenance. First when your going to get your driveway paved make sure they put at least 4 inches or gravel down and get it compacted. Then what most people don’t know is that company’s are only putting down top coat at 2-3 inches instead of putting a binder down at 1.5 inches and then top down at 1.5 inches so you get three inches total. I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve paved a driveway or did patch work and find out there’s not only just top coat down but it’s only a inch thick. When your a home owner I would recommend asking the contractor to but road binder down instead of driveway binder because it’s a a lot stronger. And after the paving is done in 1-2 years you should Sealcoat your driveway, not with the stuff you can buy st home depo either you want a pro. And you want to be careful who you hire you want a company who uses a sand slurry mix. It’s the best to reguvinate the oils in the asphalt and you want to find a good company and learn about what they use for material ask them for a pamflit the plant hands them out for free! You also want to watch out for some company’s who will end up watering there material down. So do your research first. And after you get your driveway seal coated it should last 5+ years before it has to be re sealed again do not do it every year it will clog the pours on the asphalt and make it crack.
I appreciate that info as a first time homeowner. 👍
Whats your experience with heated asphalt driveways? Is it worth it if it prevents water in cracks freezing and expanding the crack? My current driveway is asphalt and desperately needs torn out and redone....just haven't decided on asphalt or concrete...
Hi Dylon. So one of the contractors told me he can pave over the current asphalt because it's already settled. The other contractors told me it has to be dug up. Who's telling the truth?
@dylon
Wow thank you so much for this valuable information!!
I couldn't ask for more. This is a great, self explanatory video about the different types of surfaces that you can put on your driveway. Very well done sir.
I was involved In asphalt paving for 30+ years. I've sealed it, cracked filled it, patched it, removed it , Installed it , hauled it and loaded it out BIG TIME ( all of the above) . When I put my asphalt drive way in I kinda went over board. I put probably 2 feet of stone in the driveway lol. Let it sit in stone for about 2 years then installed it in 2 lifts. 1 and a half binder / inch and a half surface lol. OK it was a little over kill, it was still there after 35 years, starting to fail a bit but still solid. In my world " black is beautiful"
I guess that would work just fine!
The National Asphalt Pavement Association recommends 6" of base for most driveways and 8" when heavier vehicles are expected. (Compact the subsoil, lay 3-4" of base, compact the base, lay another 3-4" of base, compact the base again) That doesn't sound too impressive when considering the 12+ inches that other people have mentioned.
Is 6" of base and 3" of asphalt adequate like they recommend? Or instead, are they advocating for their own job security for when the driveway needs to be replaced sooner rather than later?
We had pavers fitted because we trusted the person giving the advice and explaining the pro and cons to them, much like you have explained and those pavers still look great and any dipping over time has been lifted filled and levelled.
As a Belgium farmer I would choose asfalt then concrete and last pavers. Because when the subsoil drops asfalt gently follows without breaking (to some degree) concrete creates holes underneath and when they are big enough the concrete gets destroyed. Pavers are just not strong enough for me. But in al cases thicker is better just like Stanley said and don't forget about the quality
I appreciate you saying this about asphalt. I see neighbor's drives lifting at the joints and being broken at the edges. All the while, my asphalt driveway has developed character over the years. Also, a minor oil leak is less unsightly on asphalt than it is on concrete.
what about granite stones? isn't that the most durable stone in existence?
@@Daaaaaaavid the stones themselves are indeed very durable but they don's seal the subsoil completely, when a couple of stones sink they create a puddle where the water can collect and softens the subsoil thus expanding the problem.
Thanks for such a concise and objective overview. Your video strikes the perfect balance of authoritative delivery without bluster, inspires confidence based on your obvious experience, and keeps things moving visually and conceptually without going too fast. I've had great luck with a stamped concrete driveway, but only because my contractor/friend advised me to spend the extra for what must be a 6-inch pour with lots of rebar--no cracks (other than the cut ones) after ten years! However, I have a long driveway and am considering replacing the asphalt stretch with pavers. Thanks for the tips on how to make it last better.
i put a base of 12" crushed asphalt on my parking area and 6" out to the road never had any problems nor do i have any cost of maintaining
I have a Seal Coating Business and I have to say you edumacated me a lil more I enjoy your videos keep em coming and again A1 Video
DM, the "bottom line" for engineering a driveway - like any road - is "base " ! Driveways and hard patios - like any travel way - fails from the " bottom up " ! Your video is a most cogent and worthwhile examination of the issues !
Thanks for sharing!
Gives enough infrormation about some things to consider about using asphalt, pavers , or concrete for building a driveway.
Wow! I greatly appreciate you posting this, as the wife and I are currently trying to figure which way to go. Whatever we choose, we're gonna see about putting down a thicker base layer for sure!
As a fourth alternative, especially for people who have their own machines, gravel makes an excellent road surface. Every ten years we get some more and regrade with the backhoe. No cracks, no sealing, no settling, but you have to like gravel. I've lived with the driveway my entire life, so it's not a big deal but for a more urban area a hard surface would be better.
How well does that work in the winter with snow?
Washes off hills every year
Thank you so much for your video. It has helped me make the decision to use pavers to replace my old, tired, worn asphalt driveway. It's great to have expert advice.
I’m just curious, have you replaced your driveway with pavers? How is it?
You are worth your weight in gold to me. Learn important stuff every time I watch.
In my years as a mason, landscaper, etc....I have done several paver driveways (patios and walkways too)...I have poured many driveways...and now I work for myself, sealcoating asphalt driveways (and handyman services).
My landscaping is boulder walls...my patio/firepit and walkways are stone...and my driveway is gravel. When I die...they will cart me out of here via my gravel driveway.
I have a large amount of water where the swale goes from dirt/gravel up to my asphalt. This has caused sinkage of the ground underneath (since water can get under). When I re-do the driveway, I'd like to add drainage so that water from this dirt/gravel gets quickly directed to the other side of the driveway.
What type of driveway is best for this, to stay flat, and to allow water to run through it? Can I get like 1 or 2 surface drains with perhaps metal grates to span the width of the driveway to help?
Stan, just a side note for pavers. Some pacers can be turned over but most are one sided. How ever they still are the easiest to repair if cracked. When I do a paver project, I always leave extra pavers for that reason.
Very true. Your right and thanks for pointing that out.
I live in the Chicago, Illinois region (land of winter freezing & sub zero temps) and want to replace an asphalt driveway with concrete. (Asphalt driveway is 2 years old when home was built). So let me get this straight; 8" base, wire & 6" pour. Thank you for the heads up (video & comments) on that. Now, I want a black driveway. I understand in my climate (winters) it's recommended to use "iron oxide black" and NOT "carbon black" due to air / water entainment. (The darkness of the black tint isn't a major issue for me). Have an expert opinion?
My unsealed asphalt driveway is 40 years old and the only crack is from a shallow rooted tree that the previous owner had planet next to it. Aside from sinking an inch and a half against the garage slab, I've got no reason to do anything with it for another decade. If it does get replaced, I'll just have them scrape it up into the new mix, lay it a bit thicker and leave it unsealed again. For comparison, the house on my right was religious with the tar and had to resurface once and replace once in 35 years; the house on the left sealed every other year and ended up replacing after 35 years.
Thanks for the comparison, I guess the stamped concrete is off my list.
thank you for this information. a good source of asphalt information has been lacking on RUclips for quite some time! I jumped in to the sealcoating/crack filling business 1.5 years ago without any prior knowledge or experience. I have had some success but am always hungry for more knowledge. please keep it up!!
Check out Wecoat. His channel is dedicated to it.
Here in Alaska the muni cross section for driveway is 18" of gravel(3" minus/pit run), 2" leveling course(D1 or RAP) and 2" of asphalt, or 18" gravel and 6" concrete on anything that will be driven on. I personally always put geotextile woven fabric under all my excavations too! Makes for a good driveway! I never get just putting 4"-6" of sub base....just won't hold up here...
You guys have to much frost movement-you need the extra base.
Others are that in our state concrete raises the property taxes where the other 2 don`t, pavers look good and last good if they never get salted for the snow. Then asphalt it raises the air temp around the area year round. My father extended his drive around the house into the new back yard garage well after that the A/C would no longer cool the house sufficiently. Just a few things to look at.
Depends on water table, sub grade, compaction of soil is huge. Also what is driving on the on it. Heavy trucks concrete. Heavy vehicles can sink on asphalt on hot summer days.
Thank you so much. I was deciding on stamped concrete and pavers. I'm glad I choose pavers now that I've seen this video
Our condominium association went crazy on a very expensive paving system for our short main drive almost 25 years ago. It was chosen with long term durability. I forgot what underlay came first the sand or the crushed gravel but geomat were laid between them. Then the really expensive part was laid in, 6 inches of reinforced concrete. After the concrete cured a very thin dusting of sand was applied before cobblestones, asphalt or finish concrete was applied. This top pavement is called the ware layer and is expected to be replaced when salt damage or other damage occurs with less effort. The driveway had to be cut through with heavy concrete cutters on week for emergency access to a water main break but otherwise the rest of the driveway is quite even and pleasant to use. 25 years later the condo association is quite happy with this expensive paving system.
I like paver idea for a drive way and walkway how do you shovel it in the winter? Any issues with snow?
We did our drivway im pavers and it's perfect eight years later.
We have many neighbors with blacktop driveways:
- You can't walk barefoot on blacktop in the summer - too hot
- You can't park a motorcycle or bicycle on blacktop because the kickstand will make a hole
- Every two years they have to reseal the driveway. This means:
1. They have to either pay someone to do the whole job or DIY and still spend money on material
2. They lose the use of the driveway for at least a day
Hello, great video, Thank you. Re base thickness, do you mean before or after compacting? Which hard surface is best for South Florida so that's heat and humidity - also near a lake so not sure if salt is a factor? Current drive is asphalt (old house) with the crocodile cracks everywhere...
I live in Tennessee and wonder is an aggregate driveway better than concrete or asphalt? I have a 90 ft long driveway with gravel on it on a 20 degree slope.
surprised you didnt mention rebar in concrete. i find that usually keeps cracks from forming. i also split my driveway into 4 sections with a row of brick for separation
And now concrete can come with fiber to replace and improve the concrete.
@@thomaspayne6866 is that used to replace rebar ?
@@jimmybrice6360No, it doesn't replace rebar. It gives the concrete greater ability to flex before breaking. You still need the rebar too.
Pavers can be a pain in the arse to maintain. The joints will be filled with polymeric sand, which is very tricky to work with even for professionals and tend to washout a little every time there's a hard rain. It can also be very expensive to install depending on how well the base will be prepared.
Great video. I am having my driveway done this summer. I excavated 12" down and back filled with 3/4-0 mix. I packed down and left to sit one year. Now comes the asphalt. This will be applied after the area is re compacted and 2" of compressed asphalt will sit on top. Hope it holds together.
A year of settlement and compaction will be rock solid. 😄👍
The concrete border has been installed and the crew just leveled and compacted the area this afternoon. paver should be here in a couple of days.
Almost one year now and the driveway looks great. I will be looking to seal it this summer. what should i use?
I live in the country and I have a very long driveway. What do you recommend for looong driveways?
SS1 emulsified tack oil works great for a quick repair on your asphalt surfaces, such as skin patching, or saw cutting with a diamond blade, correcting any base issues and then re-paving the problem area. Lots of paving companies are happy to pick up this work as filler between big jobs where there base isn't ready. You apply the oil, hit it with a tiger torch to prime it, add the new hot mix over it and compact for finish. Or hitting you're existing asphalt with a tiger torch will heat up the surface to make it pliable and problems can be corrected, reasonably easily, with an asphalt lute (rake), plate tamper, and asphalt sprayer (chemical sprayer from any hardware store). All that said the corrected area will take on a new color and stand out so seal coating should also be considered after the repairs are completed for a uniform finish. Re-surfacing is usually after 15-25 years for a properly finished job. If you need re-surfacing after 3 years, the paving contractors in your area are not doing their job properly. For example, not excavating the sub base far enough, not excavating down to clay, if clay can't be found under 2 feet of excavation, not introducing geogrid (trampoline like fabric) with at least 6" of structure (3/4 road crush on top - fractured on 3 faces for ideal compaction - or soil cement), not introducing water to the gravel during the compaction process for ideal densities and maximizing load capacity of that base. I'm talking about a 4 season climate. If you guys are only getting 3 years out of your asphalt in Michigan I might just come down there and set up shop! That's crazy!
Joshua- Spot on advice! Thank you!
U just confirmed brick stone drive way for me all the way.
Iamap
Nice😄👍
Good video. Last year I did a bit of 'science' study when looking at concrete as a possibility for my driveway. I've still not moved forward on it yet, but I'm lifting my research from a Word file FYI, because it compliments your own findings about salt and concrete risks: >>> Concrete has high strength when it is compressed, or 'squeezed'. However, it is extremely weak when it is subjected to tension, or 'pulled'. Salt can take advantage of this weakness. Believe it or not, while concrete appears to be a very dense material, it is in fact quite like a blotter. It can and does absorb water. You can actually see this happen on a hot summer day. Sprinkle some water on your sidewalk or driveway and look very closely. You can actually see the water penetrate the surface of the concrete. When you spread rock salt on your concrete to melt snow and ice, the salt dissolves the snow and makes a salt water mush. The melting action of the salt allows water to enter the concrete. If the temperature then drops and the water freezes, the growing ice crystals can blast apart the concrete. Salt is also hygroscopic. It attracts water. It can cause concrete to become more saturated with water than it would otherwise. The presence of this extra water in freezing conditions can spell trouble. The volume of water increases by 9 percent when it freezes within the concrete matrix. The pressure of the growing ice crystals can cause the surface of the concrete to fail. It usually spalls off.
Wow- That is awesome research. Thanks for sharing!
Should I look at a deeper than 6" pour, such as 8 or 10" with a 1ton pickup and living in snow country?
I'm getting 3in of binder then 3in of top. I also have a 65 x12 pad of pavers underneath I have 3in of rock then 3 in of binder then paver
I'd like to see a similar video on an even wider variety of driveway options, including eco ones like previous pavers, "grass-cells," gravel, dirt, ...
I really don’t know what to go with, paving blocks down at the mo, but they have sunk,
With a 6 inch base material on a paver outdoor patio can it support the weight of 8ft pool table without any additional concrete support for the legs, pool table weights approx. 785lbs?.... any remarks will help, thanks
Great video! I learned a lot. I already have a partial paved driveway and I'm eventually going to get the rest paved as the weeds/grass popping up in the stones of my driveway is driving my OCD crazy!
You forgot to mention rebar, rebar will add far more strength to your concrete driveway than a thicker base or pour, though those are definetely helpful as well, just don't ever forget to put rebar in at a 3ft grid minimum.
Stamped concrete will usually have a sealer on it as well making it slippery when wet. It doesn't seem to fair well if shoveling snow with a metal shovel either.
Good point👍
I used to drive a concrete truck. We poured colors every now and then. Usually for contractors who were going to have a stamp design
Yes. Exactly what it's used for
Is it ok to install asphalt on top of a concrete driveway? Just trying to stay on a budget.
Does paver allow better drainage? I suppose there is some drainage between each stone?
In Australia we typically don't use asphalt mostly we use concrete but yes always get a good base for it and use reinforcement mesh it helps stop alot of flexing and cracing in the concrete and whenever you join against and existing pour/hard rock like surface pin/dowel it to it in my area so many didn't pin and dowel their driveways paths to their homes and they pop up and make nasty trip hazzards
Very true. Good point👍
So if I want to lay brick or concrete ur saying use 8 inches of gravel and the filler?
As per ACI specs we cut our lines 1/4 of the slabs thickness and depending on the slabs size we measure and cut accordingly. No more then 10' apart.
How do you POP out interlocking pavers to turn them over and reinstall... lol
Dont they have a lip to hold them in place?
Didnt see any of your videos showing how to do this... Link please?
There's a few different tools but something like this: ruclips.net/video/-fHSlUPTql0/видео.html
Are pavers as well suited for a “ribbon” driveway? Grass in the middle. I’ve been considering this for some time but didn’t know how well the edges would hold up knowing people may drive off the edges.
We use up to 12 inches of recycled asphalt product R A P
In wet areas we place 3 inch minis then compact with bobcat tires and roller then add one inch minis R A P to grade then 3/4 inch base asphalt then 3/8 inch top asphalt 330 degrees F roal it and compact it we make it like a Mass. HIGHWAY SCOTT FROM NH .
Thanks for the comments Scott, thanks for viewing !
Fantastic informative video sir.. I have a steep driveway in the north east , would it be okay to have a paver driveway instead of asphalt ? And if so is there a recommendation on any of the sub materials ? And or procedures recommended? Thanks 🙏👍👍👍👍👍
Couple of points about concrete:
1 - All concrete shrinks when curing, just like the mud in a puddle cracks and curls in a summer sun. A finisher's job is to control how fast the curing happens and providing for joints to direct the cracking to specific places. Rebar, wire mesh, fibermesh, not pouring in heat/wind/low humidity and different chemicals can assist in minimizing shrinkage and subsequent cracking, spalling, etc. Whether mechanical jointing or diamond saw cutting is used, it has to be the proper depth and location. Water/cement ratio is important. Concrete thickness doesn't necessarily deter cracking.
2 - To a large degree, especially in severe freeze/thaw areas, subgrade prep is top dog in assuring long term slab integrity. Adequate washed rock drainage directly underneath the slab, along with compacted subgrade beneath that provides for maximum resistance to frost heaving from expandable clays and subsurface water. Rebar in impact areas or soft loamy subgrades helps. Integral piers in the slab can help extremely soft areas.
3 - Salt, de-icer, magnesium chloride, etc. kills concrete. Period.
4 - Over-tooling when finishing causes much of the surface cracking, along with adverse weather. Pour it and get the initial finish on, then let it bleed and stay off until it's time for the kneeboards. Don't throw water on the surface, and don't rub on the edges for something to do while it sets up. Save your energy to hit it when the time is right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking job.
/24 years in the biz, batching, hauling and finishing.
All top notch-Thank you! I think I need to interview you!!!
Jay Phillips Pretty close description there. I agree about letting it air, I try to not close it up too soon with a fresno too when I can afford to. I live in Nevada, summers can get you and if the heat don't the wind will. We use con film to help close up with the bullfloat when we need to. I don't like water on the top either, a light fog won't kill it if used evenly and in moderation when no con film is available, but half the time some idiot will spray it all over like fucking crazy (I work with a few sometimes like that). But edges and joints are number one and should be laid down right away, unless you're using boards and a straight edge to tool the joints you can keep em' straight with walking tools if you get them in time. But all edges should be floated flat & opened up even if you trowel right back over them, they need to be opened up so you don't fight em'. Personally , I don't use knee boards anymore unless I have to, as long as I can reach it with a tricky trowel that I flat trowel with, a 5x20'' square end trowel, I just rounded out the corners on it some. I trowel all wall lines with my 5x24'' before we rod it, then stay away from it with walking tools. /40 yrs. just finishing. After x amount of years you start to find out that it don't always have to be hard, if you haven't yet you will (and you can still do nice work).
I have a pipe leaking 740 gpd, and the area is under my driveway. I'm asking you, please tell me who I should contact and fix this, and how much is a reasonable cost in the pacific northwest.
Jay Phillips your pretty spot on. Of my driveway I've got a 6" pour and metal mesh. It's a California style so it's cracked but in the gaps provided. The metal mesh has kept it from moving anywhere. We only have one ever small crack about 6' on the corner of the driveway. Our driveway is sealed and has no issues. Is over 13 or so years old. Just needs a good power wash every so often.
Jay Phillips so only pour concrete on the 4 good days of the year we get to pour concrete and good luck😂😂😂
Very helpful video. I just purchased a home downtown and Im in the middle of you know....getting the city to look and approve whatever I want to do. That 8" base material is key! now I know what to say when I call somebody to do the job. Deeper base, less cracking. right?
So if I break up my asphalt driveway can I use that crushed asphalt as part of the base? I'll definitely dig deeper because I don't know whats under my driveway but it looks sooo sad lol. Probably do concrete for my driveway but I really want to do some paver surface in my backyard for grilling or a firepit. We were also considering an above ground pool down the road. Is there anything special we should do to the surface to prevent it from settling?
Pavers are also subject to the same deterioration as poured concrete but can be replaced separately, buy extras upfront you will need them. Also even with the best installations the side pavers will move away from the field.
Good point Roger. get a few extra upfront and then you will have them as needed and the colors will match closer.
Hi Stanley! Thanks for the video. It was very informative! My question is, I live in the Mid West were we get lots of snow and below freezing temps in the Winter. Since using salt is inevitable and since pavers are, I assume, made out of a concrete like material, won't the salt eat at it just as it would a concrete driveway? Thanks again for the video!
Excellent video your expertise is saving us a lot of money, keep the great work !!!!!
My neighbors stamped concrete surface is pitting and eroding from the glossy surface. Rocksalt used in winter did that. I told him to use Calcium Chloride for de-icing instead.
Great information. So the more inches on foundation before the pour, the better it will be?
Yes! as long as its good base material and compacted.
Great video! What exactly is your driveway made of? I like that look but you didn't specify.
Nice job on a great video! I'm looking to replace a concrete driveway that has cracks all over, due mostly to settling, and nearby tree roots. I am thinking of using pavers but I wanted to ask you the pros and cons of the different types. Have you heard of the composite pavers made from recycled tires? They're lightweight, and they are made to handle the weight of cars/trucks, etc., but I'm sure there are other advantages/disadvantages compared to bricks or concrete pavers. Thoughts?
I haven't heard of them- is their any long term tests out there. That is really the indicator if they will hold up. I don't believe "claims" unless I see they have lasted in a real application for many years.
I have a garage under the house which is sub-grade...how would pavers work with the change in grade??
I'm curious what you would think of a double layer of pavers for long term dependability. I know the cost would increase, but that might be mitigated by using recycled pavers for the lower layer, since they won't be seen anyway. Would something like this be useful for decreasing problems with sinking and settling, or would it just be so cost prohibitive as to not be worth it in the long run?
Thermal expansion is probably the number one reason. As the top layer heat up, temperature differential between the top layer and bottom layer causes stress since bottom layer is colder and held by internal steel reinforcement.
also with stamped concrete cracking, you still have to saw in the joints just like you would a normal driveway or patio. but the problem with that is contractors are cheap and don't cut down enough for it to be a good control joint, they try to save their blades by just cut 1/4 " and making the control joints way too spread out when it should be 3/4"-1" deep at least. and every 8ft in every direction.
Need some advice for my driveway how can I send a pic to you of how it looks ....I live in the Caribbean island Antigua I have an issue with water flowing into my yard ..Thanks in advance
After watching this, I'm tempted just to keep my fugly gravel driveway lol
It really is the best option. I usually pour a concrete slab I can use to back up a car and then leave the rest gravel. Make a border with concrete or brick is you want it to look fancier.
Gravel isn’t ideal if you have delivery drivers drive up your driveway. Our vans weigh 10-20k pounds. Very heavy and easily get stuck on non solid surfaces. Complete nightmare to deliver to houses with mile long dirt driveways.
@@angelgjr1999 its also totally unsuitable if you live anywhere with snow.
What is your thoughts of using pavers over existing 25 year old concrete that is cracked?
I would remove the old concrete. Their is a reason it's cracking. Because it's base is moving and that will transmit through to your pavers.
Hey you always on the phone/camera while driving is it not illegal in usa?
Nice video with lots of great information. My question my not pertain but is somewhat related. I have a concrete driveway with a topcoat of asphalt. My driveway slopes towards the garage. I am installing a recessed trench gutter drain in front of garage doors. It would be more work but would like to fill in with concrete around trench but not to the top. I would like to lay in pavers on top of new concrete surrounding trench drain and make level with asphalt for a paver border around trench. Is this a bad idea or feasable without other moisture issues? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, KC
My house was a flip and the driveway is a mess now. Big ruts where the tires go. After some of it chipped away I realized they did about 2 inches each layer.. Is it a terrible idea to just fill in the dips with patch?
Yes. Don't. Get it redone. If you fill the chip it will come back
+Nikos R I love the idea of concrete for a nice lawn edge but the salt issue concerns me. the town dumps a ton of salt here..
FYI that's like a band aid on a bleeding artery.
+Nikos R 😄👍
I just paint the grass and soil grey! Talk about a cheap driveway!!!
hahahah you made me laugh, and made me think of my plan.
Melovessumguns 😂😂😂
Wait... what 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Melovessumguns lol
Can I install pavers on top of existing asphalt?
Just the video i was looking for!!! anyone who has done pavers or aggregate concrete, do they hold harsh cold/heat weather? I live in toronto, i have a lot of driveways here that have these and seems like its, not a problem but just wanted to see what others think.
If you keep your water to cement ratio as low as possible, you will have less shrinkage. Using a good curing compound will also help to minimize rapid evaporation upon initial setup. Finally if you can seal the surface, it will help to keep the concrete looking good.
Good advice!
Whats the average cost on a pavers brick driveway?
Is a brickstone driveway good for motorcycle kick stands and car jacks and jack stands?
Pavers it is then, Thanks for this video.
Glad I could help!
My experience is always deepen the base material as much as possible within reason. It amazes me people think 4" is realistic. It's realistic for about 2 years.
I know these are just driveways, but at 4” you need a layer of rebar and contraction joints to stop the cracks from temperature and shrinkage if you really want your driveway to last long. Going thicker than 4” I cannot see how you get away with no rebar and expect the concrete not to eventually crack. I think people don’t want to spend the extra money on rebar, just pour my driveway and forget it, but knowing the material properties of concrete no way you will get away with no cracks eventually. Rebar and contraction joints just help mitigate them.
Crack sealing for asphalt and concrete hands down is the best contract job you can get. You can rent a crack sealer for about $300 a day buy about $500 of material, two man crew can accomplish a $5,000 job in just 1 day. Best part of crack sealing is you need no tools besides the machine. I would of never been able to break the 6 figure profit mark without adding crack sealing to my services.
I never realized it was that profitable.
Matthew Meek same here, i only work 100 days a year now
I can't believe people throw their money around like that. My 3,200 sq. ft. driveway is being done (6" base material and 3" of asphalt) for not much more than that. I'd either do the crack sealing myself, or I'd wait for the entire driveway to fail and then replace it.
What the heck are you renting
I've got oil stains in a few of our driveway pavers. I've tried to remove the stains but nothing works. Is it difficult to pop out pavers since they're tamped in? Any product recommendation for sealing the pavers?
Just use a screw driver to pop it out and a hammer with a piece of wood to put it back. No recommendations on sealer.
I am considering the stamped concrete look for my back patio. Thanks for the tips on the pour!
😉👍
make sure you clear seal every couple ov years. if they towel the color in it will wear out and it will look crappy. the trick is diy every few years, geta disposable roler and pole a can ov sealer and solvent, thin the 1st coat then straight on the second coat. wil save you bucks down the track, a 300buck sprayer is not worth it unless you know someone that you can lend you one.
BaberJacks nobody mags in the color anymore. everyone throws the bags of color right into the mixer and has the driver spin the drum for a while when bringing it to the slump they want.
yeh but to thoes that have existing stamped, usually they throw the color in @the plant, the release agent may be another color and thus you have 2 color, best to seal so to get best results
if im gonna make 5'x18" cement pavers should i add a base layer?
Some good info.. have an asphalt driveway I need to replace.. was thinking about heating it along with the sidewalk and walk way up to the front door. Concrete
Which is the best method to re-seal asphalt? Poured, or sprayed.
If you ask 100 people 50 will say poured (brush or squeegee) and 50 will say spray. spray looks a hell of a lot nicer. Brushed and squeegee leaves a lot of lines and brush marks. For sealing reasons either one works really well. Remember you want to wear the sealer off not your driveway. We have been in the paving and asphalt maintenance business for 25 years. Also only seal it when the previous sealer is worn, do not build up to much sealer on it.
Not my area of expertise. Sorry.
+D cain great info. Thank you😄
stanley , what do u think about pavers on top of existing cement on the driveway?
Nope- I like to control the base material better than that.
This advice is priceless!
I been watching you and yes your right about all you talk about
I really want to move to where all of these guys are having work done. I'm an asphalt paving contractor. paved thousands of driveways. I live in an area that we get lots of snow, and the weather is usually not sunny but for about 3 months out of the year. Proper way to lay asphalt is to have a proper base first. The base needs to include at least 12 in of pit run, which is very large Rock and gravel mixed basically virgin gravel out of the ground. Graded and compacted to the height and level that you want your driveway to be. Next you need 2 to 3 in of 3/4 crushed gravel to reach your final grade. It then needs to be sprayed with alot of water and compacted until it feels like concrete to walk on. This is the only way to get a proper base and not have to worry about the material that is being laid on top of it, whether it's asphalt concrete or pavers. I noticed cracks in all of the driveways that you showed your video. If you don't want cracks then make sure that you got a proper base and by base I don't mean small 3/4 inch Rock 12 in thick. that doesn't work. Small crushed rock is not a good base material it moves around when you drive on it and never gets the compaction that you need you need big rock 10 inch plus with binder soil mixed with it. After all your prep work is done and you have the proper grade then you're ready to lay asphalt on top of it. A 3in compacted asphalt Mat is very desirable but 2, 2inch lifts is even better. There is absolutely no reason to seal coat your new driveway for the first 12 months because asphalt doesn't cure for 12 months and sealcoating you will not do any good. After 12 months then you need to apply a seal coat. The average cost is about $0.20 a square foot and should be applied every third year. If you do end up with some cracks in your driveway the cracks need to be filled with hot rubberized crack filler. It needs to be applied to fill in the cracks to the height of the asphalt it might take two or three passes to get it to the right height. I have driveways that are 15 + years old that have very few cracks in them and still looks like new. If the cracks are filled immediately and not allowed to sit with moisture and anything else that can get in them they won't expand can you drive will still look new 20 years later. There is no doubt in the driveways that I laid today will still be there 30 years later and look good. Love you Work Stan, I enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing!!!!
Appreciate the comments Jeremy, thank you !
Does pavers have the salt issues?
Love you video's bro i learn something every time i watch them thanks. And GOD bless you.
Alot of left out information concerning an asphalt driveway , an asphalt driveway that's paved over a rock hard non moving base will last 30 years without cracking as long as you apply a thin coat of non rubberized pure oil base asphalt sealer ,not the clay based asphalt emulsions sold at home Depot & Lowe's , a 5 inch asphalt finished thickness will Outlast concrete when laid over the same non sagging base ,also the depth and type of base material depends on what conditions are found under the top soil or old driveway ,after the existing soil base is compacted if any movement of the soil is seen when the compactor is rolling over it is when you chose the base materials and thickness ,in a deep snotty clay base you should allow the existing base to sun dry for 30 to 60 days before adding base stabilizing materials like 60/40 ,crushed concrete or limestone ,if you started with a squishy base then you want to mix in a few tons of Portland cement to the existing Earth and compact it before adding a layer of crushed limestone and allow the limestone to sit another 30 days before paving ,on the day of paving have the contractor put down and compact a layer of 60/40 road mix or asphalt millings & compact it before paving , make sure you order a 5 to 6 inch finished depth that's installed in 2 separately compacted layers instead of the single pour 3 inch depth standard ,once paved make sure any gaps between the paving & grass are immediatly filled in with Earth & grass seed before compacting ,stay off the driveway for another week or 2 and you can expect a double wide 2 car asphalt driveway to last you every bit of 20 years without developing a single crack ,if your new asphalt drive dosent crack within the 1st year you know you have a rock hard base that won't sag and you apply petroleum based asphalt sealer at the 1 year mark using a squgee coat just thick enough to fill in the semi pourous asphalt paving ,don't ever use rubberized sealers or water based emulsions because both will peel or flake off unlike a petroleum based sealer that binds with the petroleum based asphalt paving ,you should reseal your asphalt driveway every 12 months applying the thinnest coat possible to cover last year's sealer ,not every 3 years , if you can wait for your new driveway to be completed for 3 to 4 months and follow the base layer install outlined you can expect a 20 to 30 year crack free driveway that looks new every 12 months due to you resealing the asphalt and replacing the petroleum in the asphalt by using only petroleum based sealers , I own over 60 rental homes in middle to upper middle class areas with all types of driveways ,including brick pavers & every drive I replaced over the last 42 years has been asphalt using the standards created for America's expressways & only 1 drive has cracked due to a renter having a gas leaking truck that degraded the asphalt ,I'm also a licensed contractor with a Journeyman card in waterproofing that covers parking lots ,parking ramps ,commercial roofing ,below grade waterproofing,road building , exterior wall waterproofing of brick cement and all woods,bridge waterproofing as well as residential driveways so I'm not talking out of my ass .
How can anyone read this without going crazy?! Run-on sentences throughout the whole thing.
Very professional and helpful! Thank you.
Thank you !!
Stanley ....I'm tired of dealing with my back yard weeds and stuff would you recommend asphalt for an entire back yard about 1200sq ft
Really can't afford pavers or concrete