Hey dude, never had a chance to explain the clutch the other day! On my outcast 4s I have HR diffs and heli gears. To lock the clutch I used 3m nuts not lock nuts. 3m nut fit right in the back clutch plate. Just like the plastic with the brass threads! No need to hold in place while tightening the clutch!!! 8 runs now and clutch has stayed tight!!!!
@@IRONCLADRC no problem dude my outcast 4s had nothing back their! Lost count how many times clutch loosened up! Since the thin non lock nut, no issues!!!
@@IRONCLADRC same here,my outcast 4s has HR spur,heli cut gears,aluminum diff case and shocks,lunsford titanium turnbuckle , rpm arms max 8 and stock motor with avid sealed bearings and not done!
Nice one Big B, I've broken heaps of arms on the 4s outcast so used GPM and so far great. Will have to upgrade the diffs for sure, they all have a weakness somewhere. Got a Corally XTR and the things nuts with a Max8 combo. Haven't broken it even after the worst crashes , I'll manage to one day, they all break ha,ha,
Anybody else subscribe just after he referenced the tightness of a mosquitos lady bits? Reminds me of phrases I heard while "helping" Grandpa in the garage circa 1987.
I went with arrma metal diff ring and pinion gear, and every thing fits snug with no slop. Only thing is you have to use the Arrma composite diff case also.
@@willwrk4gunz good for me dude best upgrade ever i ran a 3500kv motor 4s in mine and ran fine destroying the frunt diff tho 😂 it was plastic haha but you should get it
Great Vid...Nice catch on the loose pins. The only thing I have not upgraded on my K4S are the HR Diffs...I got the Yokes but still composite in the diff cup. perhaps cutting up some thicker pins to tighten that up will IronClad them out LOL...I hope you keep us posted. Keep up the good work.
@@IRONCLADRC I really thought the diffs would go out soon but they've held up good. We'll see how long they hold up. I'm going to order the HR Cup & Gears for when it does happen. What diff fluid setup are you using?
What’s up brother love the build I have a 3s typhon made it 4s it’s crazy fast but I’m having trouble with the center drive shaft on full trigger it got so much power that it vibrate likes crazy then it snaps after two runs
You need the center driveshaft support bearing from The kraton 4s. www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-310878-4x4-Center-Driveshaft-High-Speed-Support-3S-Granite-Senton-Typhon-/203208496096?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Center bearing im running rocket 4092 with max5 on my typhon 8 s. Stock driveshafts center bearing support. Steel rear diff only front plastic but im getting 128 insane plastic chassis. Bout to convert tomorrow into gt car see what numbers i can get. I have 34 spur 29 linion tomorrow im going for 30spur 34 pinion with me luck 🎯
I agree. The tolerance is on such an expensive part should be absolutely perfect. Subbed ya too 🤘. Iv been trying to learn everything I can since I just got a vorteks. And of course I already broke 2 u joints on rear axels lol. I can't believe arrma made that u joint out of plastic. SMH
Welcome to the channel! The plastic upgraded CVD drive shift that arrma made for the 3 and 4s line Are great I've had a 0 issue and you can rebuild them. Is there a little pricey I've had no issues with mine
@@IRONCLADRC yea iv been looking into the cvd axels. And I just took the slippers out to tighten by hand and gonna tight little by little till it's not slipping too bad. I had tightened it by rolling the car forward like your supposed to but that had to be what ripped the u-joint loose. But all I did was a high speed run up and back the road. No jumps and no slamming the break or throttle. So I can't believe it just broke that easy. I'm extremely disappointed in that one lol 400$ and can't even drive in a straight line without breaking something.
What’s up dude ? I found out for me it’s the Mojave fronts for the front and kratons fronts for the rears , 6s , with M2c pistons , a wide kit , 4s backflips , steel diffs , extra slipper pad for rcawd gear going in stock slipper . Extra pad on the top side where there’s one . The other side doesn’t work as good or as perfect . I read it in the Amazon reviews twice people said to add a slipper pad . Other wise buying the whole slipper was twice as much . Stock one is already worn in . Defintely didn’t replace the slipper bearings either 😂 but I greased them
You really only need to do the rear! The front takes less "Shock" and you are waaay less likely to strip a diff ring or input gear! But if you have the money go for it haha!
@@IRONCLADRC Right on! Sucks that its basically all backorder right now especially the Arrma version. Hot racing has the cups but I need the rest of course haha
@@IRONCLADRC So you actually prefer straight cut vs helical? I dont know which is actually stronger but im guessing helical otherwise is there a point to it haha? Luckily I havent ran into the issue of the plastic diff cup pin seats busting like you showed but that doesnt mean it wont ever happen. Curious, what happenes to the car when that happens? Is there a certain sound or just loss of power?
Hi, I noticed or maybe I just can't find any, that you don't have any videos on the m41. I have pro boats. But I have come across the opportunity to get a snap-on m41. It's a trade. My infraction v2 for the boat. Is this a good or bad trade? I figured you would know about the the m41. Thanks, drew
I got my motor Now My ecs Wont Fit So is there a Kit I have to Buy If So Please Let me Know Thanks So Much And Please post a Link Thanks For All the Help
@@IRONCLADRC yeah I guess they'll be okay since you don't jump too big. People are still breaking the receiving end though on big jumps. Dude! Did you order them yet? Are they on backorder? Because I have the hot racing shock bodies for 4s and I've never used them. I've thought about selling them but I've only held on to them because who knows when hot racing might decide to stop making them. DISREGARD. I see them everywhere. About two years ago they were hard to find for a while
I'm totally in love with my 3s Typhon and I bash it's super hard but believe it or not I've never blown a diff but the wheels and weight are way less than your Kraton. How are you digging the proline shocks? I got a pair about a month ago but haven't put them on my granite or Typhon yet
My son has the 3s typhoon we beat the crap out of it too. Lol. No diff problems with the typhoon I agree its gotta be the weight of the truck vs Truggy
@@IRONCLADRC Ok TY... Im gonna get the Metal Diff tomm... The Plastic ones arent good..and they keep binding up...i think its the diff case.. Do they HR ones run smoother????
Any long term updates on thus setup? I'm thinking about beefing up my Senton's rear diff, my diff pinion took a dump so I have it torn down. Don't really want to fix it twice, I'm just stuck on the price
Did you have any issues with the Smaller diff gear pushing further and grinding away on the aluminum Diff case??... It somehow happened to me and it chewed away like Half A mm on the diff case.. And The bigger gear doesn't move around side to side at all
No I actually like the arrma upgraded CVD. I've had them for a year or so now. There fully rebuildable. The only complaint I have is that they are a little out of balance at the knuckles on the front of the truck. Not a big deal. There ironcladed out
On The 3S and 4S line the hot racing case works with the hot racing Crown gear and the Arma Crown gear works with the arrma case. They do not cross reference
I think your on to something, perhaps we should get in contact with the CEO of Hot Racing, and ask him to fix that differential assembly. 30 day warranty, now you know why! And yes, I know they'll offer a 50% discount for broken parts.. that's not good enough Hot Racing. Do Better!
I have the arrma big rock. I recently upgraded the rear diff gears to metal but when I reassemble, the gears mesh is to tight when tightening yoke diff case , why is this?? Never had this problem with the composite gears in there? Same with internal sun gears housing, to tight??
Is there a shim or shims on the diff. If so mine was tight aswell I used 1 shim and it was still tight. I ran a few packs thru it and it was fine. The aluminum yoke don't have give. The plastic yoke does that's why it needs a few shims. I would run 1 shim or no shims on the HR DIFFERENTIAL
I’m using these hot racing gears with the Arrma composite case part# arac4023. Do you know if I’ll reuse the stock pins or the pins that came with the gears?
Great I put the arrma steel differential in the front. No issues yet. Both differential are holding up great. The HR setup is actually preforming a little better than the Arrma diff. I run it on 6s all the time everything else on the truck breaks but the diff are solid!
Always having trouble with the stock motor mount, motor plate bending on hard jumps I'm looking at the m2c motor mount/chassis brace to solve the problem.
I tried HR Diff in the rear of my Granite and it didn’t work because Input Gear is too long and it bottoms out in Slipper Clutch Housing before motor housing clips in?!? Anybody have the same issue? And any resolutions? Thank you
I constantly see people bashing these things and I swear I'm just gonna have bad luck I guess. I was literally just driving straight down the road and back and it broke that u-joint. Really makes no sense.
Yea that's what R&D said about the big rock! "Oh tolerances will be fine! Go ahead and make 500,000 trucks." I payed 150.00 for 1 full differential, it should be a tighter gear mesh than that! I don't think I bit
Hey dude, never had a chance to explain the clutch the other day! On my outcast 4s I have HR diffs and heli gears. To lock the clutch I used 3m nuts not lock nuts. 3m nut fit right in the back clutch plate. Just like the plastic with the brass threads! No need to hold in place while tightening the clutch!!! 8 runs now and clutch has stayed tight!!!!
Nice. Thanks for the tip
@@IRONCLADRC no problem dude my outcast 4s had nothing back their! Lost count how many times clutch loosened up!
Since the thin non lock nut, no issues!!!
The 4s line is a blast, my k4 is probably my favorite rc. It's my goto basher especially since I've upgraded the differential and cluch
@@IRONCLADRC same here,my outcast 4s has HR spur,heli cut gears,aluminum diff case and shocks,lunsford titanium turnbuckle , rpm arms max 8 and stock motor with avid sealed bearings and not done!
Heck yea. How are the titanium turn buckles? Any issues?
Nice one Big B, I've broken heaps of arms on the 4s outcast so used GPM and so far great. Will have to upgrade the diffs for sure, they all have a weakness somewhere. Got a Corally XTR and the things nuts with a Max8 combo. Haven't broken it even after the worst crashes , I'll manage to one day, they all break ha,ha,
Anybody else subscribe just after he referenced the tightness of a mosquitos lady bits? Reminds me of phrases I heard while "helping" Grandpa in the garage circa 1987.
Yes, and I didn't want to be the first. This man's authenticity I can feel. Also subbed .
I went with arrma metal diff ring and pinion gear, and every thing fits snug with no slop. Only thing is you have to use the Arrma composite diff case also.
i don’t think you’ll respond to this but if you do!!! how has it healed up so far?
X2
How is that holding up
@@willwrk4gunz good for me dude best upgrade ever i ran a 3500kv motor 4s in mine and ran fine destroying the frunt diff tho 😂 it was plastic haha but you should get it
I’d like to lock the rear differential on my Senton 3s any help?
Great Vid...Nice catch on the loose pins. The only thing I have not upgraded on my K4S are the HR Diffs...I got the Yokes but still composite in the diff cup. perhaps cutting up some thicker pins to tighten that up will IronClad them out LOL...I hope you keep us posted. Keep up the good work.
Yea? How is the diff doing with just the yoke? Are you having many problems? Or is it holding up to the abuse?
@@IRONCLADRC I really thought the diffs would go out soon but they've held up good. We'll see how long they hold up. I'm going to order the HR Cup & Gears for when it does happen. What diff fluid setup are you using?
What’s up brother love the build I have a 3s typhon made it 4s it’s crazy fast but I’m having trouble with the center drive shaft on full trigger it got so much power that it vibrate likes crazy then it snaps after two runs
You need the center driveshaft support bearing from The kraton 4s. www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-310878-4x4-Center-Driveshaft-High-Speed-Support-3S-Granite-Senton-Typhon-/203208496096?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Center bearing im running rocket 4092 with max5 on my typhon 8 s. Stock driveshafts center bearing support. Steel rear diff only front plastic but im getting 128 insane plastic chassis. Bout to convert tomorrow into gt car see what numbers i can get. I have 34 spur 29 linion tomorrow im going for 30spur 34 pinion with me luck 🎯
Nice informative video man, perfect back yard to build a track.
Would love someone to consistently have stock hear in the uk because it’s not cheap to get um gear
great install!👍🏻 hope you enjoy this thing now!💪🏻🏎💨💨💯🐕💨💨💯
Ironcladed this thing out! lol. Thanks brother
Wild crazy truck
She's a hand full
I agree. The tolerance is on such an expensive part should be absolutely perfect. Subbed ya too 🤘. Iv been trying to learn everything I can since I just got a vorteks. And of course I already broke 2 u joints on rear axels lol. I can't believe arrma made that u joint out of plastic. SMH
Welcome to the channel! The plastic upgraded CVD drive shift that arrma made for the 3 and 4s line Are great I've had a 0 issue and you can rebuild them. Is there a little pricey I've had no issues with mine
@@IRONCLADRC yea iv been looking into the cvd axels. And I just took the slippers out to tighten by hand and gonna tight little by little till it's not slipping too bad. I had tightened it by rolling the car forward like your supposed to but that had to be what ripped the u-joint loose. But all I did was a high speed run up and back the road. No jumps and no slamming the break or throttle. So I can't believe it just broke that easy. I'm extremely disappointed in that one lol 400$ and can't even drive in a straight line without breaking something.
Best video I've seen. Very well done. Thank you
Thank you sir
@@IRONCLADRC is it worth doing the front?? Or only the rear. I have a big rock switched to 4s
💯💎🎯🎯 😬😱😱 your my boat Guy IronClad STFallthewayUp🥳🥳🥳🥳 you make this drive like a full8th scale kraton fully impressive build 💯✅✅
Great video. However the outdrives are reversed as per Arrma site (not that I believe it makes a difference, tbh).
What shocks work best for sticky landings on a granite ? Thanks
What’s up dude ? I found out for me it’s the Mojave fronts for the front and kratons fronts for the rears , 6s , with M2c pistons , a wide kit , 4s backflips , steel diffs , extra slipper pad for rcawd gear going in stock slipper . Extra pad on the top side where there’s one . The other side doesn’t work as good or as perfect . I read it in the Amazon reviews twice people said to add a slipper pad . Other wise buying the whole slipper was twice as much . Stock one is already worn in . Defintely didn’t replace the slipper bearings either 😂 but I greased them
JUST ORDERED IT!!! how has it healed up
There great. Promise
@@IRONCLADRC i can’t wait!! 😝
Great video. Easy step by step. Thanks.
Yep your welcome.
That’s how I like them with no shims
Hey, what's the diff fluid that you put in the diff?
You really only need to do the rear! The front takes less "Shock" and you are waaay less likely to strip a diff ring or input gear! But if you have the money go for it haha!
I put the arrma upgrades differential in the fron testing the hotracing in rear and arrma steel In the front 3 months now no problem
@@IRONCLADRC Right on! Sucks that its basically all backorder right now especially the Arrma version. Hot racing has the cups but I need the rest of course haha
I actually like the arrma steel diff just a much as the HR .. the only weak point on the arrma steel diff, is the plastic diff cup. My oppinion
@@IRONCLADRC So you actually prefer straight cut vs helical? I dont know which is actually stronger but im guessing helical otherwise is there a point to it haha? Luckily I havent ran into the issue of the plastic diff cup pin seats busting like you showed but that doesnt mean it wont ever happen. Curious, what happenes to the car when that happens? Is there a certain sound or just loss of power?
You will know when it goes. Heli is a better gear cut.
Hi, I noticed or maybe I just can't find any, that you don't have any videos on the m41. I have pro boats. But I have come across the opportunity to get a snap-on m41. It's a trade. My infraction v2 for the boat. Is this a good or bad trade? I figured you would know about the the m41. Thanks, drew
The snap on m41 is a Salt after hull, I don't know if it's a good trade, I would do it. I'll leave that one up to you!
Thank you my friend, I appreciate your input. I'll get back to you when I get her home. Thanks.
That thing is a monster. Love the dawg too brother
Yea. Lolo is all about the rc trucks. She crys when I leave her in the house. Lol. Thanks for watching
They say for arrma granite the metal hd input is long?
Salute boss luv ur content does this Hot racing diff upgrade work in tha 3s Arrma vortek Blk ?
Yes sir
Can I use it in a Arrma 3s vortek blx ?
Appreciate you Salute
I got my motor Now My ecs Wont Fit So is there a Kit I have to Buy If So Please Let me Know Thanks So Much And Please post a Link Thanks For All the Help
Put it on top of the rx/tx box with double sided tape
Is that a 4s rig on 6s?
what wait Diff fluid should I use just picked up this Set up Thanks
I use 50k in the front and 35-40k in the rear.
@@IRONCLADRC Thanks So much
Cool af bro... now I need 200$ asap front/rear. .
They are differently worth it.
I've been running two shims in mine. I started with 1 shim though
I would try the Kaiju shocks! They are killer and pretty heavy. They're also cheap... a lot cheaper than arrma shocks
I like the HR shock Bodies. There cheap smooth & durable
@@IRONCLADRC yeah I guess they'll be okay since you don't jump too big. People are still breaking the receiving end though on big jumps.
Dude! Did you order them yet? Are they on backorder? Because I have the hot racing shock bodies for 4s and I've never used them. I've thought about selling them but I've only held on to them because who knows when hot racing might decide to stop making them. DISREGARD. I see them everywhere. About two years ago they were hard to find for a while
I'm totally in love with my 3s Typhon and I bash it's super hard but believe it or not I've never blown a diff but the wheels and weight are way less than your Kraton. How are you digging the proline shocks? I got a pair about a month ago but haven't put them on my granite or Typhon yet
My son has the 3s typhoon we beat the crap out of it too. Lol. No diff problems with the typhoon I agree its gotta be the weight of the truck vs Truggy
Cool ride
Arrma Vorteks 3s blx 4x4 ?
Great video!
Hey big b do you have to replace the yoke when using this diff setup
No you can use the stock yoke, but upgrading the yoke is definitely recommend
How has it held up????
Pretty good
@@IRONCLADRC Ok TY...
Im gonna get the Metal Diff tomm...
The Plastic ones arent good..and they keep binding up...i think its the diff case..
Do they HR ones run smoother????
Straight cut gears handle more torque. That’s why stick shift drag racers have straight cut gears out in tabby for 1st and second gear fyi
Roger that.
will this setup parts #s work with the latest vorteks BLX 3s?
Works with All the 3s& 4s line.
Would you use the same parts for the 3s Vorteks? I've only recently gotten into the hobby, so I'm trying to learn all I can. Thanks for the help.
Yes sir
What's the part numbers for granite and vortex?
Any long term updates on thus setup? I'm thinking about beefing up my Senton's rear diff, my diff pinion took a dump so I have it torn down. Don't really want to fix it twice, I'm just stuck on the price
Definitely worth it I destroyed my rear dif about 10 times before I upgraded
Did you have any issues with the Smaller diff gear pushing further and grinding away on the aluminum Diff case??... It somehow happened to me and it chewed away like Half A mm on the diff case.. And The bigger gear doesn't move around side to side at all
No issue witht them. None
What engine And ECS Do you Have in that Bad BOY?????
HOBBYSTAR 120a esc TP POWER 3640 2600kv motor.
ok 1 more question What Cvds Are you using Sorry Just looking for the Right 1 And Have you Had Any problems With yours
No I actually like the arrma upgraded CVD. I've had them for a year or so now. There fully rebuildable. The only complaint I have is that they are a little out of balance at the knuckles on the front of the truck. Not a big deal. There ironcladed out
Them 1s
What diff fluid you using.?
In another comment he can't remember but wanted to say it's 40k. I'm waiting on parts for my rear diff so I figured I'd point u in a direction.
will the red case s fit in the vorteks?? same setup as big rock?
Yes
Ive got a 3s senton with granite tires, and my plastic diff sucks, what steel one should i get
Arrma steel ring & pinion would be your cheapest option. Hotracing is rather pricey.
@@IRONCLADRC hey, i got the arrma metal diffs, and my slipper broke right after i ordered them, im working on them now, the metal diff looks great
Will the crown gear work on the Arrma diff case ar310772 ? Or HR diff case only ?
On The 3S and 4S line the hot racing case works with the hot racing Crown gear and the Arma Crown gear works with the arrma case. They do not cross reference
What kind diff weight did u use? I’m thinking on doing that to all my Arrma 3s..lol
Man I want to say 40k? I can't remember right off hand I apologize
Great video. #Subscribed
Thanks brother
My pinion gear on the diff or what ever isn’t snapping with the spur gear ?? I’m not using the hot racing yoke is that the problem ?
Could be. The yoke helps keep everything tight.
I think your on to something, perhaps we should get in contact with the CEO of Hot Racing, and ask him to fix that differential assembly. 30 day warranty, now you know why! And yes, I know they'll offer a 50% discount for broken parts.. that's not good enough Hot Racing. Do Better!
It's actually held up so far. No issues with mine
Well done!
What cvd are you running? Mine keep popping out..
Arrma upgraded cvd driveshafts
I have the arrma big rock. I recently upgraded the rear diff gears to metal but when I reassemble, the gears mesh is to tight when tightening yoke diff case , why is this?? Never had this problem with the composite gears in there? Same with internal sun gears housing, to tight??
Is there a shim or shims on the diff. If so mine was tight aswell I used 1 shim and it was still tight. I ran a few packs thru it and it was fine. The aluminum yoke don't have give. The plastic yoke does that's why it needs a few shims. I would run 1 shim or no shims on the HR DIFFERENTIAL
@@IRONCLADRC ive got all the shims where they are to go and gear mesh is way
to tight, will going metal help this for yoke and diff housings?
even when trying to turn the out put gears in in diff case, they wont move at all now with this upgrade??
What servo and servo saver you got on that. ?
HR saver. Stock servo
I’m using these hot racing gears with the Arrma composite case part# arac4023. Do you know if I’ll reuse the stock pins or the pins that came with the gears?
I don't think you can?
can I use the arrma metal crown gear with this hot racing diff housing?
Yes it's actually better suited, no flex
@@IRONCLADRC so it will fit using arrma one? arrma comes with no o ring?
@@IRONCLADRC what mean no flex, arnt they metal?
@@IRONCLADRC so I use my arrma crown gear and metal input gear with hot racing diff housing??
@@43rocket yes
Hows the diff holding out ?did you put them it in the front too?
Great I put the arrma steel differential in the front. No issues yet. Both differential are holding up great. The HR setup is actually preforming a little better than the Arrma diff. I run it on 6s all the time everything else on the truck breaks but the diff are solid!
Hell yea thanks for the info and a great video
So with the few months that have passed, you're still good with the setup? Recommended? Should I splurge the $100 too? hehe.
Yes the HR diff is solid. everything else on the truck breaks, the HOT RACING DIFFERENTIAL IS MINT...
@@IRONCLADRC I see. What else is breaking now?
Always having trouble with the stock motor mount, motor plate bending on hard jumps I'm looking at the m2c motor mount/chassis brace to solve the problem.
@@IRONCLADRC yeah. I just wish it wasn’t 1/4 the price of the car!
I tried HR Diff in the rear of my Granite and it didn’t work because Input Gear is too long and it bottoms out in Slipper Clutch Housing before motor housing clips in?!?
Anybody have the same issue? And any resolutions?
Thank you
Yes?!!!! I’m having that issue wtf is going on did you figure it out I’m not using the hr yoke
Yes same on big rock v3 only solution I can think of is cut input shaft down
Grind the part thats too long i did works awsome took 3 min to do
I don't get why my spline from diff to spurr gear won't go all the way in like hot racing part is to long. :/.and I got all these parts.
So now I can't clamp motor in . Could it have been a messed up part?
@@samuelpedroza9645 same man ! i cant get the thing to run smooth at all !
Good durability ?
Yes I recommend to any one. The hotracing diff is tough. The arrma kraton 4s needs alot of upgrades to bash hard.
@@IRONCLADRC ✌👍
I don’t do anything with ATF.
It's funny how his "beep beeps" come after he uses a curse word. Lol. That's fucking G shit.
Mine dont spin. Why ???
Need more information than this to actually help
i put everything together but gears was not turning so i had to re do the whole thing. I got it to spin now. thank u for replying back 🤟🤟
If you dont break it you weren't having fun.
Dude I told my son that while shooting this video lol
Its very tru.
I hope I made scene?
I constantly see people bashing these things and I swear I'm just gonna have bad luck I guess. I was literally just driving straight down the road and back and it broke that u-joint. Really makes no sense.
That's a HUUUGE diff.
11:34 bro what
Tighter than a mosquito cha cha. Lol. (Tight fit)
Stop crying put cap on put it together tolerances are find stop being charlie browns teacher wah wah wah want want wah lol
Yea that's what R&D said about the big rock! "Oh tolerances will be fine! Go ahead and make 500,000 trucks." I payed 150.00 for 1 full differential, it should be a tighter gear mesh than that! I don't think I bit
Will this fit the arrma vorteks boost with 4x4 conversion
It should same chassis as the brushless version
Thank you so much. I upgraded my vorteks to a 6s. It's been holding up until recently, the conversion differential teeth got stripped.