Love the chanel . . . always interesting & informative content. Can I ask: should I use Tru-Oil or Tung-Oil for a quick (1 coat) Wipe On /Wipe Off, on the back of my guitar necks? (not the fretboard). Note: I'm not sanding or prepping = 1 Suhr Electric & 1 Taylor Acoustic. Any input is greatly appreciated.
The ingredients in Tru Oil are secret whereas polymerized tung oil (PTO) is just polymerized tung oil and mineral spirits. Tru Oil only gives you a gloss sheen whereas PTO can provide a matte to gloss sheen.
Test it first to make sure it works. I have never mixed the two because these days, I use polymerized tung oil which doesn’t need Japan drier. That’s a good thing since Japan drier is a cobalt solution that is very toxic.
Thanks for the tips! Just bought a sample of this stuff. If I were to apply a grain filler to Walnut with this PTO, would I add the grain filler to bare wood and THEN the PTO, or add the PTO sealer first then grain filler on top of the PTO??
Maybe you have answered this and I just missed it but why do you use a different finish on your neck versus the body, I understand the reason for the fret board. I have used multiple oils on my fret board but always the same for the body and neck, is that problematic. Thank you for all your great videos, my first guitar build was from your plans, a Clarksdale 6 string - turned our great. Thanks for all your great videos!
Sometimes I use the same finish on both the neck and the body. However, if I am going for a high gloss, I'll do it for the body, but not the neck. I don't like high gloss finishes on a neck as they feel sticky.
Thanks for the info! Is there a stage in this process where a tint could be added to the product to darken the end result a bit? If so, what product and when would you recommend adding it? I’m thinking of somewhere between aged and roasted for the shade.
Great video. I appreciate your methodical approach and instructions. I graduated from a Luthiers academy last year and I’m really comfortable with the woodworking, but finishing has been my biggest challenge. Thanks for the information.
Nice one Chris. I’ve seen you use this finish before, do you prefer it..? How do you think the polymerized tung oil finish durability compares to a nitro lacquer finish.
Nitrocellulose is much more durable than polymerized tung oil. That being said, if I needed greater durability, I would go with 2K polyurethane or better yet, polyester instead of nitrocellulose. I can't stand that stuff.
Love the chanel . . . always interesting & informative content. Can I ask: should I use Tru-Oil or Tung-Oil for a quick (1 coat) Wipe On /Wipe Off, on the back of my guitar necks? (not the fretboard). Note: I'm not sanding or prepping = 1 Suhr Electric & 1 Taylor Acoustic. Any input is greatly appreciated.
One coat of rubbed on, rubbed off tru oil and one of wax. 😉👍 That's what Music Man does.
This oil is the stuff
You’re making this way more difficult than it is
Just giving my viewers what they want.
What is the difference between polymerized tung oil and a product like Tru-oil?
The ingredients in Tru Oil are secret whereas polymerized tung oil (PTO) is just polymerized tung oil and mineral spirits. Tru Oil only gives you a gloss sheen whereas PTO can provide a matte to gloss sheen.
What about japan drier? I use it with boilded linseed oil wnd it definitely fries faster
Test it first to make sure it works. I have never mixed the two because these days, I use polymerized tung oil which doesn’t need Japan drier. That’s a good thing since Japan drier is a cobalt solution that is very toxic.
Thanks for the tips! Just bought a sample of this stuff. If I were to apply a grain filler to Walnut with this PTO, would I add the grain filler to bare wood and THEN the PTO, or add the PTO sealer first then grain filler on top of the PTO??
Great vid 👍🏻 Sutherland welles looks like a great product but unfortunately seems to be unavailable in the uk..
Maybe you have answered this and I just missed it but why do you use a different finish on your neck versus the body, I understand the reason for the fret board. I have used multiple oils on my fret board but always the same for the body and neck, is that problematic. Thank you for all your great videos, my first guitar build was from your plans, a Clarksdale 6 string - turned our great. Thanks for all your great videos!
Sometimes I use the same finish on both the neck and the body. However, if I am going for a high gloss, I'll do it for the body, but not the neck. I don't like high gloss finishes on a neck as they feel sticky.
Thanks for the info! Is there a stage in this process where a tint could be added to the product to darken the end result a bit? If so, what product and when would you recommend adding it? I’m thinking of somewhere between aged and roasted for the shade.
You’ll have to contact Sutherland Welles for their advice.
Very interesting. I didn't know that tung oil could cause an exothermic reaction and spontaneously combust.
As far as I’m aware all drying oils do. Boiled linseed oil is the same.
Le tonkinois varnish in the square can. The most oil like varnish
$70-$80 a can? No thanks.
Great video. I appreciate your methodical approach and instructions. I graduated from a Luthiers academy last year and I’m really comfortable with the woodworking, but finishing has been my biggest challenge. Thanks for the information.
Great to hear!
Nice one Chris. I’ve seen you use this finish before, do you prefer it..? How do you think the polymerized tung oil finish durability compares to a nitro lacquer finish.
Nitrocellulose is much more durable than polymerized tung oil. That being said, if I needed greater durability, I would go with 2K polyurethane or better yet, polyester instead of nitrocellulose. I can't stand that stuff.
This is not a good idea. Lacquered guitars are superior
Polymerized tung oil is a type of lacquer. If you are referring to nitrocellulose, that stuff is crap compared to modern, high tech finishes.
Russel Murray.. please explain…
@@matthewdrake9699 you’re uninformed to say the least